[Shotimes] Front Strut R&R

[Carl Prochilo]

Let me explain this issue further.  The front subframe nuts have tabs that
are welded to the subframe itself, on the inside.  This keeps the nut from
spinning when you torque the bolt down or when you have to undo the bolt. 
As the cars start to rust, those tabs will break under stress.  So now you
have a free spinning nut inside the subframe member, and there is no easy
way to get a bite on that nut to hold it still and unscrew the bolt.  This
really really really sucks.  Actually it is beyond "sucks" when it
happens.

Oh yeah, did I remember to say "really"?
-- 
Cheers,
Carl Prochilo
92 Ultra Red Crimson

On Thu, November 4, 2004 12:04 pm, Paul Nimz said:
> On my '93 when I put in the solid subframe bushings I had these problems
> and
> put in the new nuts and bolts.  Seems to me a good reason to replace them
> as
> after this is done you can run the subframe bushing bolt up and down with
> ease.
>
> Paul Nimz
> '97 TR
> '93 EG mtx
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 10:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>
>
>> Yes, that would have the same basic effect.  The only negative about
>> that
>> on older SHOs is that rust will cause the subframe retaining nut tabs to
>> fail.  The end result is that the nut will spin freely and cause you a
>> myriad of new headaches.  BTDT.
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> Carl Prochilo
>> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>>
>> On Thu, November 4, 2004 10:24 am, Paul Nimz said:
>>> On my '97 I will loosen the subframe bushings on the side I am working
>>> on
>>> and drop the subframe another inch or so.  The strut will easily slide
>>> out
>>> of the knuckle then.
>>>
>>> Paul Nimz
>>> '97 TR
>>> '93 EG mtx
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
>>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 6:32 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>>>
>>>
>>>> What I told Robert was that the real trick to get that last bit of
>>>> clearance was to remove the tension strut bushing.  That bugger will
>>>> keep
>>>> the knuckle from moving, even with the nut removed.  Since the bushing
>>>> is
>>>> pressed in, it takes a good bit of time to remove it without damaging
>>>> it.
>>>> Once the bushing was out, there was enough play to drop the knuckle
>>>> enough
>>>> to get the strut out.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, this in no way follows the official service manual procedure for
>>>> this
>>>> job...
>>>> --
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Carl Prochilo
>>>> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, November 4, 2004 2:12 am, George Fourchy said:
>>>>> On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 20:45:08 -0500, ROBERT SCHIRMER wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>I swear my problem must have been
>>>>>>getting the steering knuckle bolt loose enough, so that thde strut
>>>>>> could
>>>>>> slide
>>>>>>off???
>>>>>
>>>>> No...I think it was getting the tension strut bushing loose enough so
>>>>> that
>>>>> you could
>>>>> slide the whole thing back off of it and give yourself some more
>>>>> downward
>>>>> movement
>>>>> on the knuckle.  Once it slides a bit, it will slide all the way, as
>>>>> long
>>>>> as rust
>>>>> hasn't destroyed the bottom of the strut.
>>>>>
>>>>> George
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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