[Shotimes] Front Strut R&R

[Carl Prochilo]

It's not the rear mount I was worried about but the front one.  See my
other post on this.  It is the type of problem that rivals your broken
Y-pipe stud.
-- 
Cheers,
Carl Prochilo
92 Ultra Red Crimson

On Thu, November 4, 2004 1:31 pm, Ron Porter said:
> But this is why everyone should get the new subframe bolt kit. Besides
> giving you the rubber floor plugs over the rear nuts, the supplied nuts
> are
> much beefier than the originals.
>
> For Great White North cars, Paul's subframe-drop method sounds good if you
> can't get the strut clear via the usual methods.
>
> On the old green car, I had one nasty strut that turned out to have a
> cocked
> strut mount (looks like from the factory) that made it a real PITA to
> remove
> (ended up using a spring compressor with the spring in the car!!).
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Carl Prochilo
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 11:20 AM
> To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>
>
> Yes, that would have the same basic effect.  The only negative about that
> on older SHOs is that rust will cause the subframe retaining nut tabs to
> fail.  The end result is that the nut will spin freely and cause you a
> myriad of new headaches.  BTDT.
> --
> Cheers,
> Carl Prochilo
> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>
> On Thu, November 4, 2004 10:24 am, Paul Nimz said:
>> On my '97 I will loosen the subframe bushings on the side I am working
>> on
>> and drop the subframe another inch or so.  The strut will easily slide
>> out
>> of the knuckle then.
>>
>> Paul Nimz
>> '97 TR
>> '93 EG mtx
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
>> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 6:32 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Strut R&R
>>
>>
>>> What I told Robert was that the real trick to get that last bit of
>>> clearance was to remove the tension strut bushing.  That bugger will
>>> keep
>>> the knuckle from moving, even with the nut removed.  Since the bushing
>>> is
>>> pressed in, it takes a good bit of time to remove it without damaging
>>> it.
>>> Once the bushing was out, there was enough play to drop the knuckle
>>> enough
>>> to get the strut out.
>>>
>>> BTW, this in no way follows the official service manual procedure for
>>> this
>>> job...
>>> --
>>> Cheers,
>>> Carl Prochilo
>>> 92 Ultra Red Crimson
>>>
>>> On Thu, November 4, 2004 2:12 am, George Fourchy said:
>>>> On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 20:45:08 -0500, ROBERT SCHIRMER wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>I swear my problem must have been
>>>>>getting the steering knuckle bolt loose enough, so that thde strut
>>>>> could
>>>>> slide
>>>>>off???
>>>>
>>>> No...I think it was getting the tension strut bushing loose enough so
>>>> that
>>>> you could
>>>> slide the whole thing back off of it and give yourself some more
>>>> downward
>>>> movement
>>>> on the knuckle.  Once it slides a bit, it will slide all the way, as
>>>> long
>>>> as rust
>>>> hasn't destroyed the bottom of the strut.
>>>>
>>>> George
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Shotimes mailing list
>>>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Shotimes mailing list
>>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>> _______________________________________________
>> Shotimes mailing list
>> Shotimes@autox.team.net
>> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes