Lowering Struts....was: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Front Strut R&R
Part 2
George Fourchy
krazgeo@comcast.net
Mon, 15 Nov 2004 18:40:13 -0800
On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:59:46 -0500, Leigh Smith wrote:
>Do you cut the tab all the way off, or just part way?
>
>If removed, is it necessary to add any shim stock back in there, or do you
>just crank the pinch bolt tight?
Hi Leigh..
The only thing you need to do is make sure the pinch bolt will go all the way
through its hole....you will not be using the larger part of the tab with the hole
in it for the bolt when the strut is at the standard location. Lower the strut in
the knuckle to where you want it....I'd leave about 1/4 of an inch between the end
of the strut and the closest part of the boot for the CV joint. Mark the tab that
is visible in the pinch bolt hole, where it blocks off the hole, with a felt pen,
and cut it with a hacksaw (after removing the strut again). If this winds up
cutting all the lower part of the tab (which is not welded to it anyway) off the
strut, that's OK. The tab does nothing to insure alignment of the steering or
anything else....it really is useless, other than to allow fast and easy (and proper
height) assembly of the original car on the assembly line.
Tighten the pinch bolt to specifications (70-95 lbs). No shim stock is needed. I
just tighten it "good and tight" with my big long ratchet. I've never had a strut
slip in the knuckle. I'd say good and tight for me is somewhere around 80 pounds
after doing it for 10 years. It is a slight bit less than what I'd tighten a lug
nut to. The book says 85-105 for lugs. I go to 95 lbs.
Yeah....I can see a video is coming......!! Maybe after Christmas.
George