Lowering Struts....was: Re: [Shotimes] Re: Front Strut R&R

[Alan Fanning]

IIRC this could void your warranty on Tokico's.

    Alan

> 
> On Mon, 15 Nov 2004 20:59:46 -0500, Leigh Smith wrote:
> 
>> Do you cut the tab all the way off, or just part way?
>> 
>> If removed, is it necessary to add any shim stock back in there, or do you
>> just crank the pinch bolt tight?
> 
> Hi Leigh..
> 
> The only thing you need to do is make sure the pinch bolt will go all the way
> through its hole....you will not be using the larger part of the tab with the
> hole
> in it for the bolt when the strut is at the standard location.  Lower the
> strut in
> the knuckle to where you want it....I'd leave about 1/4 of an inch between the
> end
> of the strut and the closest part of the boot for the CV joint.  Mark the tab
> that
> is visible in the pinch bolt hole, where it blocks off the hole, with a felt
> pen,
> and cut it with a hacksaw (after removing the strut again).  If this winds up
> cutting all the lower part of the tab (which is not welded to it anyway) off
> the
> strut, that's OK.  The tab does nothing to insure alignment of the steering or
> anything else....it really is useless, other than to allow fast and easy (and
> proper
> height) assembly of the original car on the assembly line.
> 
> Tighten the pinch bolt to specifications (70-95 lbs).  No shim stock is
> needed.  I
> just tighten it "good and tight" with my big long ratchet.  I've never had a
> strut
> slip in the knuckle.  I'd say good and tight for me is somewhere around 80
> pounds
> after doing it for 10 years.  It is a slight bit less than what I'd tighten a
> lug
> nut to.  The book says 85-105 for lugs.  I go to 95 lbs.
> 
> Yeah....I can see a video is coming......!!  Maybe after Christmas.
> 
> George