[Shotimes] Q on installing pistons

[Ron Porter]

This whole process is the only time that I ever used to use STP. It was my
standard engine-rebuild lubricant.

Ron Porter (if anyone needs valve spring & ring compressors, an engine
stand, as well as other engine rebuilding tools, they are free if you come &
get 'em......don't see any more engine rebuilding in my future)

-----Original Message-----
From: George Fourchy [mailto:krazgeo@comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 7:46 PM
To: TechSHO@topica.com; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Q on installing pistons


On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 09:48:34 -0700 (PDT), Ian Fisher wrote:

>I installed a piston and rod today. How easily should
>the piston "fall" into the bore as it leaves the ring
>compressor? And if it makes some noises, that's ok,
>right? 

It's been a while, but I've installed a few pistons.

The rings will be unworn virginal metal, very finely machined, against the
virginal
cylinder wall, also honed to an even rough surface.  This will make pistons
very
hard to move after they are installed.  You will need to tap the piston in
with the
wooden handle of a hammer.  That is standard procedure in a home garage.
Use lots
of oil.  Each piston you install will make the whole assembly that much
harder to
turn over, to position the next journal for its rod end.  By the time you
get to the
last one, you will need a pry bar to turn the crank.  THIS IS NORMAL.

Be sure to protect the journals from the rod bolts as you send them down the
cylinder bores.  Cover them with rubber tubing so that they won't nick the
journal. 
Been there... done that.  

I've told the list this before, but you can double check the clearances of
the
bearings after you torque the rod bolts by tapping the rod cap with a hammer
handle.
 If the whole thing rings like a bell, the clearances are correct (as long
as you
can slide the rod end back and forth (sideways) on its journal....there
should be a
tiny space between the two rods so they can slide a bit).  If it clunks, the
clearance is too loose.  This worked for me as a backup check all through
the 70s
and 80s, when I was doing the Boss engine over and over (because it kept
burning oil
because it wasn't breaking in, NOT because I was  doing anything wrong!!).
That
also worked for a couple of 289 engines I did during that time, too.

Remember....after 3 or 4 pistons are installed, you WILL NOT be able to turn
the
engine over by hand.

As for the piston coming out of the ring compressor into the
cylinder.....first,
make sure you have the ring gaps opposite from each other, or at least 120
degrees
apart.  The oil ring, if it is a multiple piece ring, is the same way....the
top
edge's gap should be 120-180 degrees apart from the bottom one.  

Compress the rings as much as you can in the compressor, using lots of oil.
You can
tap the sides of the compressor with an end wrench, not hard, but all the
way
around, as you tighten it to make sure the rings are fully retracted into
their
gaps.  Have the skirt out a bit at the bottom so you can start the piston in
the
bore without pranging a skirt.  Use the hammer handle to tap the piston
down...it
will be harder and harder to move downward as each ring engages the bore,
and there
will be one tougher tap required to start each ring at the top of the bore.
When
they are all started, remove the compressor, and push or tap the piston down
to its
bottom travel.  Work on the bottom of the rod and torque it as required.

I know you have gotten half way already, but it's easier to pop them back
out now if
you need to to set the ring gaps if you haven't done that.

More later if I think of anything else.

Best of luck!!  It'll be something you can be proud of when it start right
up!

George

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