[Shotimes] Easiest/Best way to yank a transmission-Part 1

[clubairth@bellsouth.net]

> Dave:
> I have done 2 ATX change outs. I followed the Helm method pretty much. 
> Leave the engine hanging, does not need to come out. I have built my own 
> engine support. I don't like the 2 X 4 idea. Mine is constructed from 1.5" 
> X 1.5" X 1/4" thick angle iron. I will send you a zip file with pictures 
> and dimensions. I like the adjustability of mine because you need to 
> change the tilt of the engine a bit as the tranny comes out or goes in. 
> Pus the angle iron is so much smaller it gives you a bunch more working 
> room in the engine compartment. In the SHO this is no small advantage. I 
> STRONGLY insist on having an extra set of hands for the final drop out and 
> the initial stabbing. It's just a safety hazard to try and handle the 
> big,heavy and awkward ATX. I used a floor jack and with 2 people you can 
> steady the ATX as you work the jack.
>
> Be prepared to raise and support the car pretty high! The tranny has to 
> clear the body to slide out. I can't get it quite high enough. So I drop 
> the tranny then slide it off the jack while under the car and then drag it 
> out. I lay a big piece if cardboard down first. This soaks up the fluids 
> and protects the pan when you slide it in or out. Yes, you really would be 
> better off with a hoist but I don't have one! YET!
>
> Your tranny is a 1994 model. 1995 is the best year but 1994 is better than 
> the 1993 first year model! I had 2 of these and they are troublesome! How 
> did your transmission fail? It might be a time saver to start with a 1995 
> SHO ATX and build that while your car is still together and running. Or is 
> the tranny broken now? If you rebuild yours really consider installing a 
> rebuilt TQ, it's very hard to properly flush these. You need to use the 
> proper machine and even then it's a gamble.
>
> You have the best PCM so no change is needed there
>
> ALWAYS install the FULL TransGo shift kit. Some people half ass it an 
> install just the easy parts. You NEED the oiling updates which require 
> drilling holes in internal tranny parts. The instructions are pretty good 
> with the shift kit and it's about $80.
>
> ALWAYS change the rear main seal AND the carrier gasket. I still have a 
> small leak on the first car because I did not change the carrier gasket. 
> This is mandatory. It's the only time you will get a shot at it!
>
> I pressure wash and paint the subframe while it's out. The front passenger 
> corner takes the abuse of the battery dripping and most likely yours will 
> be crusty and rusty on that corner if not all over, depending on where the 
> car has lived. When it's reinstalled, use the alignment holes and pull the 
> subframe as far forward as it will go. You will need an alignment anyway 
> and this will get you maximum caster which is good.

Part 1


>> Hi all-
>>
>> I have a 94 SHO ATX that is about due for a trans rebuild.  I have 
>> decided
>> (foolishly?) to do the job myself with the help of a friend who has
>> experience with trans rebuilds.  The problem is, my friend is 400 miles 
>> away
>> and I need to get the thing out of the car myself and take it up there 
>> for
>> the rebuild.  So, what I need to know is the easiest/best/safest way to 
>> pull
>> the trans out of the car -- and I would be extra interested in the 
>> methods
>> that do not involve totally pulling the engine out too.  I have a garage 
>> and
>> air tools/hand tools, however, no auto-lift other than floor jacks, and
>> currently no cherry-picker but I can get one if needed.  I also have a 
>> helms
>> manual but their procedure seems a tad overkill to me for some reason. 
>> So I
>> guess I am looking for some input from those of you out there who have 
>> "been
>> there - done that".
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Dave Hammond
>> 94 ATX