[Shotimes] HELP! rear brake pad replacement issues (piston)

[Dave Pillsbury]

If the rear lines are working properly you will not need to open the 
bleeder. The only time you have to open the bleeder to get the piston 
back in is when the line collapses where it attaches at the strut in 
that POS bracket, I can get mine in with the bleeder closed and the 
"cube of doom" on a 3/8ths ratchet in under a minute.
Dave

Donald Mallinson wrote:

> A set of dull needle nose pliars in the slots will work as good as 
> vice grips.  just be sure to OPEN the bleeder screw on that caliper 
> before trying to screw in the piston, otherwise you will work at it 
> for hours.
>
> If you have some old big sockets and a bench grinder, you can make a 
> much better piston tool than any store sells.
>
> Get a socket that is about as big as the piston.  Grind the sides down 
> on two sides so that there are two small tabs left.  Smooth off the 
> tabs a little and they will fit in the slots in the piston.  use a 
> ratchet wrench and job that could take a long time takes about 20 
> seconds.
>
> Don Mallinson
>
> Jason Hartberger wrote:
>
>> help! I'm stuck! The rear pads have finally worn down to metal and 
>> are making a horrible noise. I need to replace the pads but I can't 
>> get the pistons to seat for the life of me. I'm reading the ford 
>> manual and it says I need a piston rotating tool to rotate the piston 
>> back into its slot, but I don't have it and I don't know who does! 
>> It's really important that I get this done tonight... :( anybody know 
>> anything else I can do? it seems really stupid to engineer the rear 
>> pistons like that...
>
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