[Shotimes] HELP! rear brake pad replacement issues (piston)

[Ron Porter]

I can open the bleeder in under 10 seconds

What's the BFD? Half-to-one-turn with an open-end wrench!!

Less than a minute to use my big needle-nose pliers on the piston, and I'm
done!!

You should be flushing the system after new pads, anyway, so why not have
the bleeder open and make life easier?

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Pillsbury
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 1:04 PM
To: Donald Mallinson
Cc: Shotimes Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] HELP! rear brake pad replacement issues (piston)

Don, It takes longer to open the bleeder then it does for ME to push the 
piston in. I'm not going to argue with you over the fact that all my 
SHO's have rear brakes that work correctly. If your sure yours are fine 
thats great. Oh and grow up " if you can do it in under a minute I can 
do it in 10 seconds" Hell I don't belive you can get the bleeder open in 
10 seconds!
Dave

Donald Mallinson wrote:

> Dave,
>
> With all due respect, the bleeder needs to be open no matter what 
> condition the brake system.  It is a LOT harder to force fluid back up 
> the lines to the master cyl than the other way.  Plus the rear brakes 
> have the restriction of the bias valve.
>
> I know that my brake systems are in good condition and yet, if I don't 
> open the bleeder, it takes nearly forever to get the piston back in 
> compared to opening the bleeder.
>
> There is no reason NOT to open the bleeder, first it makes the job 
> much easier, and second it won't introduce air into the system.  IF 
> you can do the job in about a minute with the bleeder closed I can do 
> it in 10 seconds with it open.
>
> That piston will just freewheel if it feels resistance.  Why fight the 
> battle when it can be so much easier?
>
> Don Mallinson
>
> Dave Pillsbury wrote:
>
>> If the rear lines are working properly you will not need to open the 
>> bleeder. The only time you have to open the bleeder to get the piston 
>> back in is when the line collapses where it attaches at the strut in 
>> that POS bracket, I can get mine in with the bleeder closed and the 
>> "cube of doom" on a 3/8ths ratchet in under a minute.
>> Dave
>>
>> Donald Mallinson wrote:
>>
>>> A set of dull needle nose pliars in the slots will work as good as 
>>> vice grips.  just be sure to OPEN the bleeder screw on that caliper 
>>> before trying to screw in the piston, otherwise you will work at it 
>>> for hours.
>>>
>>> If you have some old big sockets and a bench grinder, you can make a 
>>> much better piston tool than any store sells.
>>>
>>> Get a socket that is about as big as the piston.  Grind the sides 
>>> down on two sides so that there are two small tabs left.  Smooth off 
>>> the tabs a little and they will fit in the slots in the piston.  use 
>>> a ratchet wrench and job that could take a long time takes about 20 
>>> seconds.
>>>
>>> Don Mallinson
>>>
>>> Jason Hartberger wrote:
>>>
>>>> help! I'm stuck! The rear pads have finally worn down to metal and 
>>>> are making a horrible noise. I need to replace the pads but I can't 
>>>> get the pistons to seat for the life of me. I'm reading the ford 
>>>> manual and it says I need a piston rotating tool to rotate the 
>>>> piston back into its slot, but I don't have it and I don't know who 
>>>> does! It's really important that I get this done tonight... :( 
>>>> anybody know anything else I can do? it seems really stupid to 
>>>> engineer the rear pistons like that...
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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