[Shotimes] Josh's Old Clutch vs. New Clutch ...discussion/opinion request...(which means -- long!!)

[George Fourchy]

Hey all..

In debating which way to go with this repair...I am facing a basic dilemma:  which
way to go for the most suitable (as opposed to BEST) fix for the lowest cost?

Remember...this car is used for commuting only....no hot rodding, no high revving,
no popping the clutch.  I cruise fast, but I don't cruise hard.  (Nobody on the fwy
doubts this car is a SHO when I go around them!!)  I want it to be usable til the
end of the calendar year.  Its registration ends in January, and it will need to be
smogged, which it might not pass without extra effort (new [or borrowed!]
Y-pipe)...it was close last time on HCs.

Also remember...the rest of the clutch is fine...the linkage, the disc, the TOB
(though it buzzes the tiniest bit in the pedal...it doesn't make noise.)  It shifted
fine (and still does at slow engine speeds) before the strap broke.   (A factor
unknown is what damage might have been done to the TOB or other things by the
strap....we'll have to wait and see.)

Choices...

1. Put a used pressure plate in to replace the bad one, leaving everything else
there...cost...postage for the used PP, and about $350 for installation, plus new
TOB if needed.  (unless someone wants to pop over here and help me do it!)  

2. Use the new $219 clutch kit I have stored for the black car when its current new
$219 clutch dies down the road somewhere.  (These are the same as Lowrider has
now...all gotten from Josh over the years.)  Same cost as above, less postage. 
Disadvantage...I'll have no spare clutch.

3. Get a new PP from somewhere, probably Josh, and put that in over everything else.
 $200, +/-, plus labor.  New TOB, add $95.  ...or $35, if I went the cheaper route. 
Disadvantages....wasted new PP after retirement, but I have my spare clutch.

4. Replace the whole thing, as if I were going to drive it another 100K...about $775
out the door, unless I use the spare clutch.  disadv..cost, or no spare clutch...in
that case, cost about $350.  This (use spare) looks like the best way, depending on
what you say about clutches now.

Discussion.....

The question is this....if I use the spare clutch for the black car, I will now have
to buy another clutch kit for it for later.  I see on his clutch page that Josh only
sells puck clutch discs (and upgraded PPs, asked about below).  Do I need a puck
disc for street usage?  What's the difference in puck discs vs 'stock' discs?

Also, since I'd be using the black car the same as this car, somewhere down the road
the strap might break on it, too, if I put the spare clutch in it rather than
Lowrider...so (assuming I am still alive by then!!) should I get a new design spare
PP for it, and go ahead and use this one for Lowrider?  (this seems most logical to
me, depending on what you all say) What are the improvements in the new design Josh
carries now?  Do they address strap breakage, as well as fingers and whatever else?

I've seen your discussions over time of clutches for dragging and hard use, and not
paid that much attention, since I don't drive my car that way.  I know that clutches
that last under that usage will last longer on the street, so what do you all use
for hard service?

Bottom line.....what is the best clutch I should look at for the black car down the
road, to get now, so that I won't have to worry about this kind of stuff when it is
30 years old, and I am 75?   ...which would probably also answer the question...what
is the best way to fix Lowrider, from the above choices?

;-)      Thanks!!

George