[Shotimes] GTP Rear Arm opinions
Zach Leahy
Zach Leahy <leahyz@gmail.com>
Tue, 28 Jun 2005 11:04:26 -0500
I run my own version of the SHOSHOP arms. I made about a dozen sets
when I was in college. Uses an open heim joint on either end of a
center section (which is an aluminum tube with machined and welded in
ends, one threaded left hand and one right hand). Allows total
adjustability of the rear suspension, and eliminates any slop from the
rubber donuts in the OEM geometry. While this eliminates the rubber
in the design and basically fixes the arm in place, it does not add
very much NVH to the ride. I have this setup on my goofoff/track day
car. Also I use a center H-brace for the box.
it would be hard to perfectly solate the NVH difference becasue there
has been so much changed in this car to improve performance i nthe
corners sacrificing NVH numerous times. It's a lot different than my
stock suspended car, night and day differences in handling and NVH.
but each has it's purpose.
one note, and it was brought up when I sold a few sets of these arms,
is that this design, and all the others that use an open heim joint,
are not really good for use in the winter becasue the road salt and
sand will deteriorate the joints. I have lubed mine several times but
have to re do it every 6 months. A way to protect the joint is to
shrink wrap the whole thing in heat shrink tubing. Big stuff can be
had for a few bucks at electronics supply houses. Keeps the grease in
and the filth out. Even doing this though you may still have issues
with the joints. But don't fear they can be had from mcmaster-carr
for about $8 each ( times 8 joints ).
I may still have a few sets welded up somewhere if there is any interest.
Z
On 6/28/05, Kevin & Cheryl Airth <clubairth@peoplepc.com> wrote:
> Dave:
> I run them on the street and love them! But the main reason I went with
> this setup is to get the adjustability for the rear camber and toe. There
> has been reports of the arms bending when used on the track. I am confused
> on this because the geometry is the same as on the GM rear suspension.
> It's so nice to able to set the rear alignment where it NEEDS to be rather
> than "That's the closest we can get".
> If you run Eibach springs or other stuff that lowers the car you will need
> something to get the rear suspension to align properly.
> .
> .
>
>
>
> > Anyone have an opinion on these? I picked up a 4 from work dirt cheap
> > and I'm getting ready for the big suspension swap. So I'm considering
> > tossing them in while most of the suspension is out and getting painted
> > and new bushings. I guess the question is this. Any worth to it on a
> > mostly street driven car. I push the car pretty hard on the street and
> > may do a track event or two with it this year.
> > Dave
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