[Shotimes] RE: Making a SHO last a long time....was: Re: [Shotimes] Archives

[Mike Bruce]

If you get a rattle at start-up, you can hold the throttle to the floor
while cranking a few seconds.  This lets the pump push some oil without
the engine starting.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Juillerat, Aaron J
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 11:53 AM
To: 'George Fourchy'; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shotimes] RE: Making a SHO last a long time....was: Re:
[Shotimes] Archives

Great write up George.  I am at the point I need to do most this stuff
with
126k on my '93.  My '93 will rattle the rods just a bit when I let it
sets
for a couple weeks or more and start it up again.  By that time I am
sure
there is very little oil there till the pumps catches up.  Is this
rattle an
I better stop driving it till I change them rattle or I should change
within
the next year type noise?

Later,
A.J.

-----Original Message-----
From: George Fourchy [mailto:krazgeo@comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 10:47 PM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Making a SHO last a long time....was: Re: [Shotimes] Archives

On Thu, 5 May 2005 14:10:42 -0700 (PDT), Peter Maggiacomo wrote:

>In 10 years my 95MTX only has 83,000 on it, so it'll
>be playing catchup real fast.
>Issue #2 my stock suspension is shot and front strut
>bearings are cluncking and rear springs are sagging.
>I want to go with cargo springs in the rear.
> What's a good parts outlet for them...NAPA??

My car (Lowrider) gets 40K or so a year, as long as I can keep it from
getting
rear-ended.  It's on its third rear clip now.  It'll get to 300k miles
in
the next
month or two.  It has a lot more than that in it..at least another 75k,
but
I want
to retire it and start driving my 3.2 conversion.  (Its life will be a
lot
easier
than Lowrider's!)

Daily highway usage is the best thing you can do to/for a car.  Make
sure
you keep
the fluids up, watch for slow trends to overheat in traffic or in
mountains
when it
is hot over time (especially with the A/C on)...the radiator will wear
out
every
150k miles or so no matter what you do to it, and don't lug the
engine....consider
using thicker oil down the road...I use 10-40w and STP, and it likes it
fine
(still
gets 27+mpg on trips at sea level), as the clearances throughout the
engine
become
more loose....not just the bearings.  You especially will hear the chain
tensioners
when it starts, when it gets really loose (beyond 150k miles).  Listen
for
your rod
bearings at the first start of the day....most all V-6 SHOs will need
those
changed
after about 130-140k miles.  The instant you hear them banging two or
three
times on
the first start, change them.  Too many engines have suffered spun
bearings
because
the warning was ignored.  They sound different than
tensioners....tensioners
buzz,
and bearings bang.

You can get strut bearings and mounts in the aftermarket.  Google them,
using Taurus
or SHO in the search.  Napa Cargo Coils (for LX Tauri) are fine.  They
will
last at
least 150k miles....I'm beginning to wear mine out after that much (they
went on at
150k original miles).  Original springs only are good for 80 or 90k
miles...less
than that if you drive sportingly.  After a few thousand more miles, you
will need
new front springs too...you can get CCs for the front.  Use Tokiko or
Koni
struts...the others won't last the distance.  My Tokikos have over 200k
on
them. 
They're OK, but I won't take them out and reuse them when it
retires....they've lost
that tightness they had before (still better than original stock).  But
I
would have
used 3 or 4 sets of stock struts in that distance....much more money
than
the
Tokikos, plus the time and effort.

While you're in the front, change the tension strut bushings, front and
rear
(of the
strut bars, not the car), and change the lower control arms.  You are
wearing the
lower inner bushing, as well as the ball joints, which aren't greaseable
if
they are
original.  Your tires will like the reduced negative camber you will
give
them with
new LCAs.  LCAs are special (different than SLOs) for SHOs....NAPA has
good
greaseable ones.  Josh Teixeira has the tension strut bushings (as well
as
LOTS of
other parts) at shonutperformance.com    Change your sway bar links, too
(all 4). 
They can cause rattles and clunks when you go over driveways and
unevenly
tilted
roads.  You also might consider Gen 3 subframe bushings.  All these
things
will keep
your steering nice and tight, with no slop or looseness...the car will
stay
younger
longer, no matter what the odometer says.

George
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