[Shotimes] dropping shifter

[Jim & Debbie Leyden]

Mike,
The other place to check is the front end of the rod where it attaches to
the transmission.  I have seen the rubber bushing soften with age/oil and
become really sloppy.  You can purchase a decent quality universal joint
from McMaster-Carr that can be welded I to replace it.  Or, make a new
bushing out of the material of your choice, grind the head of the rivet off
and replace it with a bolt and locknut.

Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike Wojton
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 8:34 AM
To: Shotimes
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] dropping shifter

That sounds easier than I would have thought after looking at it. The
sloppiness is definitely in the shifter. When it's in gear you can wobble
the shifter around pretty good. Perhaps I should just order the ball and
socket and replace it instead of dropping the shifter twice.
 By the way Ian, send me your address. I found my extra owners manual. I'll
send it to you.
  --
Mike Wojton
Dover, PA

-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Eibachs (front)

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan


 On 10/17/05, Ian Fisher <dataflash@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> to remove the rod shifter:
>
> 1. remove shift knob and center console and toss aside
>
> 2. Roll yerself under said car
>
> 3. Unbolt the shifter from the transmission. (2
> bolts-one large one small)
>
> 4. optional-place a jack stand under the shifter to
> support it.
>
> 5. Unbolt shifter at the rear bracket (2 nuts IIRC)
> that hold the back end on.
>
> 6. Drop shifter in your face (optional)
>
> 7. Roll yourself back out from under the car and drag
> the shifter assembly with you.
>
> 8. Yes, there are 4 bolts that hold the rod to the top
> plate. That top plate is also held to the plast box by
> 4 bolts. Unbolt all 8 bolts.
>
> As far as sloppiness, you might have a few issues
> (motor, trans mount, subframe bushings, etc). If it is
> shifter replaced, you can replace the ball and sockets
> using parts from Josh. One thing you should check is
> to make sure the plastic thing inside of the rubber
> boot is sitting inside of the retaining groove that's
> molded into the cap at the front of the plastic box.
> If that's not in place you'll get major sloppiness.
>
> Good luck
> Ian
>
>
> --- Mike Wojton <mwojton@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Ok. How the heck do you drop the shifter down so the
> > guts can be cleaned and
> > lubed? I thought somebody said once before that if
> > you remove the top part
> > of the console you can see some screws that can be
> > taken out to do it. When
> > I remove the console I don't see any screws that are
> > accessible from inside
> > the car. There are 4 "carriage bolt" type fasteners
> > that have nuts on them
> > from underneath, but they are between a flange and
> > the floorpan. It looks
> > like they will be a royal PITA to remove. Any help
> > appreciated.
> > The reason I'm even bothering is because as I was
> > under the car this past
> > weekend patching a couple small rust holes so I can
> > get a STUPID
> > PENNSYLVANIA SAFETY INSPECTION STICKER...sorry...I
> > noticed that the rod that
> > has the little rubber boot on it moves around quite
> > a bit as it goes into
> > the box. Is this normal? I don't really think so,
> > because my shifter is
> > pretty sloppy. Does this mean I need to replace the
> > ball thing in there with
> > the plastic one that Shonut was selling? Or is it
> > some loose fasteners?
> >
> > --
> > Mike Wojton
> > Dover, PA
> >
> > -'95 White MTX
> > '96 Brake Upgrade
> > Eibachs (front)
> >
> > "Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan
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