[Shotimes] BARO sensor

[Ian Fisher]

Based on the rear surge tank castings, I'd guess that
the EGR MTX cars did not have a DPFE sensor. The 89-92
rear surge tanks did not have casting bosses for the
DPFE sensor but all 93-95 manifolds do.

It is possible that there was a changeover and 93+
newer EGR mtx's used a DPFE sensor but this is all
conjecture on my part anyway...

Ian

--- Kevin & Cheryl Airth <clubairth@peoplepc.com>
wrote:

> Adam:
> Well, We get to mess with the DPFE which is MUCH
> more failure prone and
> complicated than the BAP setup!!!
>  Which brings up a bit of trivia that I have not
> figured out. Maybe someone
> with a California MTX can help? If the car is a MTX
> with EGR does it have
> both a DPFE and a BAP sensor? Or does it lose the
> BAP and use the DPFE like
> all the ATX cars do?
> Thanks!
> .
> .
> 
> 
> 
> > Good thing us ATX'ers don't have to deal with a
> BARO sensor.  ;)
> >
> > Adam
> >
> 
> >   Damn, Kevin!!
> >
> >   That's a really good write up!
> >
> >   You can also use an oscilloscope or a good
> quality (read that high end
> >   Fluke) digital multimeter to check the waveform.
> >
> >   I know... who has one of those lying around... 
> But they are more
> readily
> >   available than frequency counters.
> >
> >   Although I'm not certain (been too long since I
> have used one) but the
> >   oscilloscopes that used to be used for ignition
> diagnostics might be
> able
> > to
> >   display that high of a frequency.  Those are
> getting fairly cheap since
> > they
> >   are no longer useful.
> >
> >   Jim
> >
> 
> >   Tim The Tool Man:
> >   Great screen name!
> >   That's a tough one to troubleshoot. It very well
> could be the cause of
> your
> >   lean running but then again maybe not? The
> easiest way is just to swap
> >   sensor's. There have been several long term
> drivability problems that
> were
> >   finally found to be the BP sensor but no code
> was set. The sensor was
> still
> >   operating in the correct range of values but was
> not changing at all.
> This
> >   made the car drive OK at some engine speeds and
> loads and to be WAY off
> in
> >   other conditions. It's mainly used as an
> altitude compensation device so
> > the
> >   closer to sea level you drive the less of an
> effect a bad BP sensor will
> >   have.
> >
> >    Do you have access to another sensor?
> >
> >    The sensor can be checked with a frequencies
> counter. Yea, I know who
> has
> >   one of these? Anyway at sea level you should be
> seeing around 160-170
> Hz.
> > As
> >   you apply vacuum to the open port the frequency
> should decrease to a low
> of
> >   somewhere around 90Hz. The sensor has 3 wires.
> One is the 5 VDC supply,
> one
> >   is a ground and the middle pin on the sensor
> should be the changing
> output.
> >   I do have instructions for using a tachometer to
> read the frequency. Set
> it
> >   on 4 cylinder setting and you should see 4800
> rpm with no vacuum and the
> >   rpm's should decrease with increasing vacuum.
> >   .
> >   .
> >
> >
> >
> >   > What symptoms will I see (if any) of a bad
> BARO sensor?
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