[Shotimes] showing off-waxed my car

[Donald Mallinson]

Paul,

You are right that some buffers can really damage or wear paint.  
Basically, a HIGH SPEED buffer should be used only as a last resort to 
bad paint, or to buff out sanding on new paint.  High speed buffers used 
on factory paint is a no-no in my book since the factory puts on very 
thin paint that can be worn through in seconds if the wrong product is 
used or the wrong technique.  It takes a good eye and hand to do it 
right in any case without leaving buffing marks that are their own problem.

But what was being discussed lately here was a low speed random orbital 
buffer.  As long as you stay with very light abrasives like the glaze I 
sell at dccarcare.com, you can low speed buff without major problems, 
but I would not use one every detail, only if you have problem areas.  
Even speed buffers can make problems worse.  One tiny spec under the pad 
and you have ruined a car!

In my business I don't advocate power buffers, even the very good one 
that was mentioned here, the Porter-Cable.  I have one and use it when 
there are problem areas that need special attention, but for a regular 
detail on decent paint, it is overkill.  Plus, getting the buffer out, 
putting it together, running extension cord, pushing around the 12 pound 
or so buffer and all, is more tiring than doing it by hand.  A good 
glaze and wax won't need a power buffer, and in any case, you can't get 
to every area with any buffer, so you have to put it down and do some 
areas by hand, or you wind up with sections near windows and corners 
looking different.

Then there is the problem of splatter.  If  you use a liquid product and 
have any moisture on the buffing pad, you get splatter everywhere that 
takes lots of time to get back off.  Went to a Meguiars detail demo once 
where they advocated the use of a buffer.  Then they said, before 
starting, cover the wiper blades, glass, trim and grill etc with 
something (baggies, plastic wrap, drop cloths) to help with clean up!  
So even they acknowledge that buffing has its down sides.

yes, it can help with problem paint, but if all your paint needs is a 
quick glaze and wax (two different products, glaze or polish has an 
abrasive to fix paint problems and make the paint shine, and wax should 
be non-abrasive and just protect, if you do your preparation correctly).

Note that non-abrasive wax benefits not a bit from aggressive 
application and removal.  The Collinite paste wax I sell is 
non-abrasive.  I recommend the thinnest possible coat (one can will do a 
car 30-40 or more times!) and buff with a soft cotton cloth (a good 
microfiber cloth is ok too) to that high sheen.  The two-part process 
(glaze/wax) done by hand is quicker, and safer and less tiring than 
using any buffer.

Some people like buffers, and bless-em.  But the right products and 
methods by hand are quicker, cleaner and less work.

Don Mallinson


Paul L Fisher wrote:

>Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the buffer should be used rarely on a
>car, such as to get it up to snuff. I thought that multiple uses would wear
>the paint down too fast?
>
>
>Paul L Fisher