[Shotimes] well the plunge of repair starts today...

[Zach Leahy]

Hmm.. Battery light on makes me think that it has a charging issue. 
Something does not sound right there.  try charging th battery before
you jump on buying a new one.  Also take it to your Autozone and have
tem test it. They can tell you if it is no good.  It's free to have
them test it, but replacing it may cost $$$.  I am always about free
first.

Z

On 3/17/06, Joe Masters <miethos@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well there's a good idea actually about the battery.  When I first got the
> car it had an interstate battery which eventually needed replacing.. so i
> picked up one from autozone.  WELLLLL... my red battery light has been on
> ever since.  I have debated many times taking the battery back or buying a
> better brand but i never had problems with it so i just didnt mind it.  I
> also had replaced the altenator(brand new in) recently so i had wondered if
> that had anything to do with the light being on, that maybe the battery had
> ran down too far in the past and got damaged or something of the sort.  I
> think I will go buy a brand new battery today and see what she does.  I need
> to anyways.  BTW I did try to jump it off when this started with our Honda
> accord and nothing new happened.  Do you think a new battery will be any
> different then jumping it off in the past, since that didnt have any affect
>
> ~Joe
>
>
>
> On 3/17/06, Zach Leahy <leahyz@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Joe, thanks for getting back, that answeres a lot of questions.
> >
> > On the Radiator:  I used the same oversize on for several years
> > without and overflow.  I had a weep tube to the ground and that was
> > all.  I checked the coolant maybe once a month and never had an issue.
> > That radiator hold a lot more coolant than the stock one, and even if
> > it is half empty you should be ok.  The factory temp gauge is a little
> > notorious for not being very descript, and over time the readings get
> > a bit wonky.  I'd invest the 4 dollars into a new temperture sender
> > when it's back on the road. I'm not really convinced the engine
> > actually overheated, but I may be wrong.  BTW - I finally made an
> > overflow out of a cheap nalgene bottle... but the lexan is brittle and
> > it has some cracks in it.
> >
> >
> > Ok the engine cranks slow, is the battery fully charged?  Check your
> > connections at the battery and see if there are any bad ones.
> >
> > On the code reader, save your cash, and use a paperclip.  It will tell
> > you the same thing.  Yes, you are right that you can only run the Key
> > On Engine Off tests, but that will spit out all the stored codes which
> > is probably most important.
> >
> > NP on the help, just trying to figure out what's going on :)
> >
> > Z