[Shotimes] random knocking noise from timing chain area
Leigh Smith
Leigh Smith" <leigh1322@comcast.net
Mon, 27 Mar 2006 16:41:42 -0500
Frank;
If you can borrow a real mechanics stethascope you can be sure. Or a
screwdriver will help some, to pinpoint the noise location.
There is a wear issue with the timing chains. Some have replaced the chains
and some the tensioners, and only some people got satisfactory results.
Based on my prior motorcycle experience, I'd bet the gears wear just as much
as the chain itself. And I know of no-one who has replaced those. I had the
unique opportunity to compare a brand-new Ford factory crate motor alongside
my 100k mile 94 with noisy chains. The 94 chains had soo much slop, (over
1/2 inch) that they maxed out the travel of the chain tensioner, and were
still loose, especially the rear one. The brand new motor is almost whisper
quiet in the chain area.
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: <fwhittle@mindspring.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 4:29 AM
Subject: [Shotimes] random knocking noise from timing chain area
> I just finished the spark plug and wire replacement on my '95 ATX. Got it
all back together and it runs great. I noticed for the first time a random
knocking/popping/clicking noise that's coming from the driver side end of
the front valve cover, right where the timing chain is. It got quite
noticeable at one point, then it quieted down some. Is this something to
worry about? I seem to remember some discussion of noise coming from the
timing chain that didn't go away after the appropriate parts were replaced,
and someone said it's something you just need to live with.
>
> I thought I'd pass along a couple of tips that helped me greatly in
reinstalling the rear valve cover. While trying to remove the cover, I was
dreading the reinstallation, afraid it was going to be 10 times as difficult
as the removal. The front cover has 2 convenient "handles" to assist in
lowering it into place: the oil fill cap and the hose and fitting on the
other end. The rear cover has no such handles. I used a couple of small
box end wrenches (1/4 - 5/16 or so), attached them to the ends of the cover
(the left side had 2 hex screws, and the right side had a plug wire
separator attached with a screw), and wrapped paper towels around them to
make them easier to grab. This helped greatly in wrestling the cover into
place. The other thing that helped was using zip ties to hold some things
out of the way of the cover. Anything I thought was in the way got tied as
far out of the way as possible. The cover ended up going into place far
easier than I thought it would.
>
> I know some folks will be horrified to hear that I didn't bother to flip
the shims or replace any. I checked the clearances of all the shims and
they were all within specs. I pulled one shim out to look at it and it
looked great with no visible wear. I am leery of flipping the shims over
because the manual says to install them with the numbers down, and the side
with the numbers looked very different from the other side. I know many
here have done just that and have had no problems, but I felt that since
they were all within specs that I was going to leave well enough alone. By
the way, this engine has 158,000+ miles on it and the spark plug wires were
the original ones. I'll be very upset if I don't gain any improved fuel
economy out of this.
>
> Frank Whittle
> '95 ATX
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