[v6sho] RE: [Shotimes] Code 214, stalling, missing, no tach.

[FlamingTaco]

>From many years of watching people lose sensors, I've never seen a 211 generated without a 214. We know the logic in the PCM cannot properly identify a loss of CKP - aka - Crank Pulse Signal. We get either nothing, or the confusing combination of bad PIP and CID.

I'm dealing with this myself right now. The SHO gave out on me last week. Got the same two codes, plus one for bad low-pump feed. Tested out both the sensors last night, and it's the CPS that's bad, as expected.

A note about the tach loss issue: When the SHO was flaking out on me last week, the tach would drop right to zero everytime the engine would cut out. It was obvious that the tach signal was being completely lost. HOWEVER, when my cam sensor died two years ago, the tach would drop to zero intermittantly, with no relation to what the engine was actually doing. The symptom was a very short cut out, just enough to cause the engine to "buck". Other have reported this symptom as well for bad CMP's.

The CID does not generate the tach signal according to everything I've seen on the service CD, but it would seem that, in some cases, maybe in certain ECU models, it can affect the transmission of the tach signal. In this case, since there is no 211 code, I would suspect the cam sensor, even though it seems like it should be a crank sensor. Easy to replace, and returnable if you don't damage it.

There are enough confusing abbreviations to go around, no need to go adding new ones. CHK? 





-----Original Message-----
>From: clubairth@bellsouth.net
>Sent: Sep 25, 2006 9:46 AM
>To: v6sho@yahoogroups.com, shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [v6sho] RE: [Shotimes] Code 214, stalling, missing, no tach.
>
>Adam:
> The 214 (CID) code is for the CAMshaft (CMP) sensor. Not the CRANKshaft sensor. It's much easier to change the cam sensor. Plus the sensor is pretty cheap! I would do this first but with the tach dropping to zero I think the PIP,CPS,CHK(CRANKshaft) sensor is also intermittently bad. It should set a 211 code but not always!! It';s a bit confusing about the labels for these two sensors.
>
> I like RCM for SHO parts.
>http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/id15.html
>
> Is the car hard to start? Usually the bad cam sensor requires you to turn the key several times before it (PCM) finds the correct coils to fire? 
>
>If you need help on changing the cam sensor post back to the list.
>.
>.
>
>
>
>  A) oh yeah, it's your crank sensor all right. The tach dying is the
>  smoking bullet. PIP = camshaft sensor, CID = crankshaft sensor.
>
>  B) love your sig, man. How did you know that's exactly how my car is
>  too!?
>
>  C) I suggest rockauto for the parts. Shoforum has a 10% discount thread
>  for rockauto.
>
>  Jason
>
>
>  Im about 100% sure i have a bad Crank sensor, but am dreading replacing
>  it. 
>  I just wanted some other opinons, or i guess just a confirmation it is
>  the 
>  crank sensor. Once the car is warmed up, it will intermitenly start
>  missing 
>  real bad, or just die and not start for about 20 minutes, and
>  occasionally 
>  the tach drops to zero, with or without the other said symptoms. Check 
>  engine comes on everytime it acts up, pulled code 214, "Cylinder 
>  Identification Circuit Failure". Guess its time to start looking for a 
>  waterpump and cranksensor......?
>  Thanks.
>
>  Adam Phillips
>  Trenton, NJ
>  92 White MTX
>  Runs occassionally
>
>
>
>
>   
>
>
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