[Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out

[Ian Fisher]

I only ask because someone (who I won't mention by name) did this about a year ago and couldn't figure out why their pedal was so mushy. Said person decided to remove the entire ABS system from the equation until he realized his mistake.

...and before that person did it, I noticed pictures of someone else who had done the same thing with Cobra calipers a few years ago...he too shall also remain nameless. =)

Ian

----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Malachuk <bmalachuk at gmail.com>
To: Ian Fisher <dataflash at yahoo.com>
Cc: shotimes at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 11:18:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out

What kind of idiot installs brakes with the bleeders pointing down? I mean is common sense really that far gone in some people?

Les of course you have Wilwoods with 4 bleeder screws per caliper, but even then you can't screw it up.


I thought shotimes list was a ghost-town.

On 5/31/07, Ian Fisher <dataflash at yahoo.com> wrote:
Are the calipers installed with the bleed screws pointed up?

Why are we using this list?


Ian

----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Nimz <pnimz at v8sho.com>
To: Shotimes at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:22:31 AM

Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out

I take a plastic bottle, drill a hole in the cap big enough to get my 1/4"
thin wall clear tubing through it.  Them put a bolt into the end of the tubing

and clamp it on with a hose clamp.  Just above the bolt I then cut a short
3/8" slit in the hose.  This will expand as you force fluid out then collapse
and seal when the pressure is off.  Just one more way to keep air from

traveling back up the hose.

But if the hose is long enough air traveling back into the caliper is not the
problem.  Usually too loose of threads at the bleeder screws is where the air
gets back in from.


I also have the engine running so the power brake feature is working.  Much
easier on the legs.

Paul

I though the Shotimes list was dead?????


On 5/29/2007 8:57:40 AM, Zach Leahy (
leahyz at gmail.com) wrote:
> Easier method, but you have to make a tool.
>
> Get a 20z or liter soda bottle, a length of clear tubing that just fits
> over
> the bleeder (3ft or so), and a threaded hose barb.  Take the cap of the

> bottle and drill a hole in it, then thread the barb into it.  You want it
> to
> be a good tight seal, so work your way up the drill sizes until you can
> just
> barely thread it in.  Put the hose on the barb fitting.  Punch a hole in

> the
> bottom (opposite cap) end of the bottle.
>
> Attach the hose of your bleeder bottle to the bleed screw, zip-tie or
> somehow attach the bottle to something above the bleeder with the cap

> facing
> down.  Open the bleeder.  Fill Reservoir.  Pump brakes 15-20 times and
> check
> the hose for any air bubbles.  Seeing none, close the bleeder, remove the
> hose, and go to the next wheel.  Start on Driver rear then Pass rear then

> Pass front, then driver front.  For a full flush of the brakes I go
> around
> the car about 3 times.
> You'll need to keep filling the reservoir on the the
> M/C.  If you let it run out, you have to start over.

>
> Works like a champ, costs $3 to build (including the soda) and only requir
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-- 
Bruce J. Malachuk

03 Redfire Mazda 6s - 17k
94 Opal Frost Taurus SHO -126k
96 Toreador Red Taurus SHO - 68k






       
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