From leahyz at gmail.com Wed May 16 14:03:54 2007 From: leahyz at gmail.com (Zach Leahy) Date: Wed, 16 May 2007 16:03:54 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Single braided brake hose Message-ID: <688997320705161303s3d7262c2pd6b876293dbcd83d@mail.gmail.com> Hey all, I need to replace 1 braided brake line. I have 3 braided and 1 rubber due to an incident of stupidity that I won't get into. I need the rear driver side line. Anyone else need just one? I would gladly order the Earls kit and split them up if there are others who need one or two. -- Zach Leahy Fort Wayne, IN 2006 BMW R1200GS - Rock Red 1992 SHO MTX - Arrest Me Red 1993 SHO MTX - Green Racecar From newmanb at rocketmail.com Sun May 20 21:51:28 2007 From: newmanb at rocketmail.com (Bob Newman) Date: Sun, 20 May 2007 23:51:28 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Clutch Video Message-ID: <4650DF00.21334.566B2D1@newmanb.rocketmail.com> Anybody have a copy of the clutch video that you do not need anymore? Thought I would check before ordering a new one. Bob From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:24:11 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:24:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Subframe bushings question Message-ID: <30078.44836.qm@web55013.mail.re4.yahoo.com> I had the SFB recall done years ago, per the TSB (drill hole in floor, replace the bolt and retainer nut, apply patch to hole, etc). Last year I upgraded all four of my original rotted and torn gen2 SFBs to the firmer gen3 SFBs plus new bolts. My question: was it possible to upgrade the SFBs WITHOUT opening up those patches to get to the retainer nuts? When the shop replaced the old SFBs, it didnt pull the carpet back or undo the patches at all. Since the nuts were relatively new, maybe the TSB steps were not necessary as with the Ford dealer. A year later I am experiencing a metallic rap/clunk somewhere in the front suspension, and it feels like the subframe may be moving a bit under hard braking or even a 20mph-braking-LH turn. I will be replacing the front strut rod bushings that go into the front frame (TRW, part # HB1592K) and the FSB endlinks for good measure, but the way the SFB upgrade was done -- or not done-- has always concerned me. Thanks for your input! Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:26:10 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:26:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Brake caliper grease--what works best? Message-ID: <154517.24186.qm@web55001.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hello, Has anyone found a brake caliper grease that does not dry up and get tacky/gummy? Ive tried dielectric grease, antiseize lube, wheel bearing grease and brake caliper lube, and have found all tend to dry out in within a few months. When I pull the slider pins, the (former) lubricant is rather tacky/gummy, and the pins show wear rings, which means the calipers arent sliding smoothly on the pins as they should. Hence, sticking calipers, burnt pads, etc. I put enough of the stuff on when reassembling, but nothing seems to last. I know the Taurus brakes are not the best design, but short of aftermarket options, how can I keep the calipers sliding freely? Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:29:10 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:29:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Sparkplug wire sets--aftermarket alternatives? Message-ID: <890511.40623.qm@web55004.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Well, it is time to replace the Motorcraft spark plug wire set with another brand. What other non- Motorcraft brands will fit exactly and have quality innards? Advance has an Autolite set for $75, Bosch is available for $60, and NAPA has one made my Federal-Mogul for $135. Ive found the Motorcraft brand to be troublesome in that the rubber donut that contacts the spark plug itself tends to separate at the seam, and as a result, the plug wire will pop up about .5 inches out of the well, which means a rough-running engine! I am using Motorcraft spark plugs (old version, not the new AGSP32FM). Thanks. Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:32:05 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:32:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Power seat motor replacement tips Message-ID: <724304.40517.qm@web55012.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Power seat motor does not work (no fore and aft, SOME up but no down, side bolsters work fine). Is this a matter of bad contacts that need cleaned (like the power window switches) or does the whole motor need replaced? Anything I can test/rule out? Whats a decent vendor and price for another motor? Any one have links on how to do this? I have all the manuals, but there's nothing like the actual 'been there, done that'. Thanks. Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:36:13 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:36:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out Message-ID: <603942.40036.qm@web55002.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hello, For some reason I have a tough time eliminating air in the brake lines (spongy pedal) after replacing calipers/flex lines with my bleed procedure. Ive ended up doing a final bleeding in the hotel parking lot the past several conventions with a helpful volunteer (thanks Joe and Jim), and Id like to NOT have to worry about the brakes right before track day this year. What is the best way to bleed (2-person method)? Engine off? Pump the brakes (power booster), turn engine on, then bleed? Depress pedal all the way to the floor per bleed cycle? Engine on. Depress pedal only halfway down to avoid bottoming out? (Seemed to work well.) Thanks. Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From bmalachuk at gmail.com Sun May 27 15:37:13 2007 From: bmalachuk at gmail.com (Bruce Malachuk) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 17:37:13 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Sparkplug wire sets--aftermarket alternatives? In-Reply-To: <890511.40623.qm@web55004.mail.re4.yahoo.com> References: <890511.40623.qm@web55004.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Get the accel plug wires from www.shonutperformance.com they fit perfectly with the FM plugs and aren't crazy expensive The Napa ones IMHO aren't that great, THey didn't seem to fit on the last car I had seen them on. Bruce On 5/27/07, jim koper wrote: > > Well, it is time to replace the Motorcraft spark plug wire set with > another brand. What other non- Motorcraft brands will fit exactly and have > quality innards? Advance has an Autolite set for $75, Bosch is available for > $60, and NAPA has one made my Federal-Mogul for $135. > > Ive found the Motorcraft brand to be troublesome in that the rubber > donut that contacts the spark plug itself tends to separate at the seam, > and as a result, the plug wire will pop up about .5 inches out of the well, > which means a rough-running engine! > > I am using Motorcraft spark plugs (old version, not the new AGSP32FM). > Thanks. > > > Jim Koper > 92 red/black > 172K > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes > -- Bruce J. Malachuk 03 Redfire Mazda 6s - 17k 94 Opal Frost Taurus SHO -126k 96 Toreador Red Taurus SHO - 68k From jfkoper at att.net Sun May 27 15:38:40 2007 From: jfkoper at att.net (jim koper) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 14:38:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] FSB endlinks Message-ID: <426325.48237.qm@web55006.mail.re4.yahoo.com> It looks like I need to replace my front sway bar end links again. I replaced the originals with OEM plastic end links, but now I am thinking of getting the all-metal ones. I compared made-in-USA TRW brand with Advance Auto Parts made-in-China Original Equipment brand and I must say the OE brand seemed to be of a better quality (and with a better warranty) than the TRW piece. Better rubber boots and welds than TRW. Any recommendations from others experience? Thanks for the input. Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K From pnimz at v8sho.com Sun May 27 16:11:52 2007 From: pnimz at v8sho.com (Paul Nimz) Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 17:11:52 -0500 Subject: [Shotimes] Brake caliper grease--what works best? Message-ID: <00e701c7a0ac$73871480$7705040a@opm> Get some copper based electrical corrosion inhibitor. It is oil based so don't over do it. But the copper stuff with stick and stay. Best I've seen yet. Paul On 5/27/2007 4:26:10 PM, jim koper (jfkoper at att.net) wrote: > Hello, > > Has anyone found a brake caliper grease that does not dry up and get > tacky/gummy? Ive tried dielectric grease, antiseize lube, wheel bearing > grease and brake caliper lube, and have found all tend to dry out in > within a few months. When I pull the slider pins, the (former) lubricant > is rather tacky/gummy, and the pins show wear rings, which means the > calipers arent sliding smoothly on the pins as they should. Hence, > sticking calipers, burnt pads, etc. I put enough of the stuff on when > reassembling, but nothing seems to last. I know the Taurus brakes are not > the best design, but short of aftermarket options, how can I keep the > calipers sliding freely? > > Jim Koper > 92 red/black > 172K > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes From sho at paul-fisher.com Mon May 28 15:34:16 2007 From: sho at paul-fisher.com (Paul L Fisher) Date: Mon, 28 May 2007 16:34:16 -0500 Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out In-Reply-To: <603942.40036.qm@web55002.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001401c7a16f$f21eb910$0201a8c0@fisherhp> 1. Top off brake fluid. 2. Have assistant crack open the right rear bleeder screw. 3. Push down on brake pedal. 4. When pedal hits floor, have assistant shut bleeder. 5. Repeat steps 2-4 until bubbles are gone, checking periodically that you aren't running the reservoir dry. 6. When no more bubbles move to left rear steps 2-5, then right front steps 2-5 and the left front steps 2-5. Paul L Fisher Visit my website: http://www.paul-fisher.com Amsoil dealer: http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil -----Original Message----- From: shotimes-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim koper Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 4:36 PM To: shotimes at autox.team.net Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out Hello, For some reason I have a tough time eliminating air in the brake lines (spongy pedal) after replacing calipers/flex lines with my bleed procedure. Ive ended up doing a final bleeding in the hotel parking lot the past several conventions with a helpful volunteer (thanks Joe and Jim), and Id like to NOT have to worry about the brakes right before track day this year. What is the best way to bleed (2-person method)? Engine off? Pump the brakes (power booster), turn engine on, then bleed? Depress pedal all the way to the floor per bleed cycle? Engine on. Depress pedal only halfway down to avoid bottoming out? (Seemed to work well.) Thanks. Jim Koper 92 red/black 172K _______________________________________________ Shotimes mailing list Shotimes at autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/820 - Release Date: 5/27/2007 12:31 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.1/822 - Release Date: 5/28/2007 11:40 AM From leahyz at gmail.com Tue May 29 07:57:40 2007 From: leahyz at gmail.com (Zach Leahy) Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 09:57:40 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out In-Reply-To: <001401c7a16f$f21eb910$0201a8c0@fisherhp> References: <603942.40036.qm@web55002.mail.re4.yahoo.com> <001401c7a16f$f21eb910$0201a8c0@fisherhp> Message-ID: <688997320705290657w174d74c3i641985cb5e89e0b6@mail.gmail.com> Easier method, but you have to make a tool. Get a 20z or liter soda bottle, a length of clear tubing that just fits over the bleeder (3ft or so), and a threaded hose barb. Take the cap of the bottle and drill a hole in it, then thread the barb into it. You want it to be a good tight seal, so work your way up the drill sizes until you can just barely thread it in. Put the hose on the barb fitting. Punch a hole in the bottom (opposite cap) end of the bottle. Attach the hose of your bleeder bottle to the bleed screw, zip-tie or somehow attach the bottle to something above the bleeder with the cap facing down. Open the bleeder. Fill Reservoir. Pump brakes 15-20 times and check the hose for any air bubbles. Seeing none, close the bleeder, remove the hose, and go to the next wheel. Start on Driver rear then Pass rear then Pass front, then driver front. For a full flush of the brakes I go around the car about 3 times. You'll need to keep filling the reservoir on the the M/C. If you let it run out, you have to start over. Works like a champ, costs $3 to build (including the soda) and only requires 1 person. I've done it this way for years on all sorts of cars. -- Zach Leahy Fort Wayne, IN 2006 BMW R1200GS - Rock Red 1992 SHO MTX - Arrest Me Red 1993 SHO MTX - Green Racecar From pnimz at v8sho.com Tue May 29 08:22:31 2007 From: pnimz at v8sho.com (Paul Nimz) Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 09:22:31 -0500 Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out Message-ID: <000201c7a1fd$b6456ef0$7705040a@opm> I take a plastic bottle, drill a hole in the cap big enough to get my 1/4" thin wall clear tubing through it. Them put a bolt into the end of the tubing and clamp it on with a hose clamp. Just above the bolt I then cut a short 3/8" slit in the hose. This will expand as you force fluid out then collapse and seal when the pressure is off. Just one more way to keep air from traveling back up the hose. But if the hose is long enough air traveling back into the caliper is not the problem. Usually too loose of threads at the bleeder screws is where the air gets back in from. I also have the engine running so the power brake feature is working. Much easier on the legs. Paul I though the Shotimes list was dead????? On 5/29/2007 8:57:40 AM, Zach Leahy (leahyz at gmail.com) wrote: > Easier method, but you have to make a tool. > > Get a 20z or liter soda bottle, a length of clear tubing that just fits > over > the bleeder (3ft or so), and a threaded hose barb. Take the cap of the > bottle and drill a hole in it, then thread the barb into it. You want it > to > be a good tight seal, so work your way up the drill sizes until you can > just > barely thread it in. Put the hose on the barb fitting. Punch a hole in > the > bottom (opposite cap) end of the bottle. > > Attach the hose of your bleeder bottle to the bleed screw, zip-tie or > somehow attach the bottle to something above the bleeder with the cap > facing > down. Open the bleeder. Fill Reservoir. Pump brakes 15-20 times and > check > the hose for any air bubbles. Seeing none, close the bleeder, remove the > hose, and go to the next wheel. Start on Driver rear then Pass rear then > Pass front, then driver front. For a full flush of the brakes I go > around > the car about 3 times. > You'll need to keep filling the reservoir on the the > M/C. If you let it run out, you have to start over. > > Works like a champ, costs $3 to build (including the soda) and only requir From rjlear at comcast.net Tue May 29 11:40:42 2007 From: rjlear at comcast.net (Jim Learned) Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 12:40:42 -0500 (Central Daylight Time) Subject: [Shotimes] Tie Rods Message-ID: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> First I want to explained that in no way am I mechanically inclined. In fact I am a 58 year old disabled Vietnam Vet. My question to the shotimes community is how does one tell if your tie rods are bad and how much is it expected to cost to repair. I have a 1993 manual transmission SHO with 167xxx miles on the odometer. The reason for this request is because within the last couple of days I have experienced a shimmy when I am doing about 55mph and it seems to happen when I turn the steering wheel a little to the left also if I am going in a straight line the steering wheel has quite a bit of play in it. Could I be on the right track in trying to figure out the problem or am I completely of the beaten track. Any information in this matter would be of immense help to me. Thank You Jim From shotimes at jonheese.com Tue May 29 11:46:13 2007 From: shotimes at jonheese.com (Jon Heese) Date: Tue, 29 May 2007 12:46:13 -0500 Subject: [Shotimes] Tie Rods In-Reply-To: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> References: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> Message-ID: <465C66E5.2010300@jonheese.com> Jim, This email list is all but dead. You will have more luck getting help with this issue if you direct your question to the V6SHO list on Yahoo Groups. To join the V6SHO mailing list, just send a blank email to v6sho-subscribe at yahoogroups.com. If you have a Yahoo account and you want to join the Yahoo group, the homepage is http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/v6sho/ (there are files/photos sections as well as a mailing list archive there). Regards, Jon Heese Jim Learned wrote: > First I want to explained that in no way am I mechanically inclined. In fact > I am a 58 year old disabled Vietnam Vet. My question to the shotimes > community is how does one tell if your tie rods are bad and how much is it > expected to cost to repair. I have a 1993 manual transmission SHO with > 167xxx miles on the odometer. The reason for this request is because within > the last couple of days I have experienced a shimmy when I am doing about > 55mph and it seems to happen when I turn the steering wheel a little to the > left also if I am going in a straight line the steering wheel has quite a > bit of play in it. Could I be on the right track in trying to figure out the > problem or am I completely of the beaten track. Any information in this > matter would be of immense help to me. > > Thank You > Jim > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes From barry at kingcon.com Wed May 30 17:52:48 2007 From: barry at kingcon.com (Barry Hayes) Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 19:52:48 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Tie Rods In-Reply-To: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> References: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> Message-ID: <518AC205-E385-4D96-AEBA-FC09274B530D@kingcon.com> Hi I've never been able to get onto that other list so it is nice to see some people here. I have exactly the same symptoms in my 95. I replaced the tie rod ends to get past inspection in April. It is an easy job but now I need an alignment. I used parts from Advance @ about $20.00 each. Soak things in liquid wrench overnight and use an end puller rather than a pickle fork if possible. But it didn;t fix the shimmy. Barry Hayes Walt Disney was afraid of mice. From shotimes at jonheese.com Wed May 30 21:14:57 2007 From: shotimes at jonheese.com (Jon Heese) Date: Wed, 30 May 2007 22:14:57 -0500 Subject: [Shotimes] Tie Rods In-Reply-To: <518AC205-E385-4D96-AEBA-FC09274B530D@kingcon.com> References: <465C659A.000003.05948@JIMLEA> <518AC205-E385-4D96-AEBA-FC09274B530D@kingcon.com> Message-ID: <465E3DB1.6020903@jonheese.com> Just send a blank email to v6sho-subscribe at yahoogroups.com. If you don't get a response, check your "spam" or "junk" email. Regards, Jon Heese Barry Hayes wrote: > Hi > I've never been able to get onto that other list so it is nice to see > some people here. I have exactly the same symptoms in my 95. I > replaced the tie rod ends to get past inspection in April. It is an > easy job but now I need an alignment. I used parts from Advance @ > about $20.00 each. Soak things in liquid wrench overnight and use an > end puller rather than a pickle fork if possible. But it didn;t fix > the shimmy. > > > Barry Hayes > Walt Disney was afraid of mice. > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes From dataflash at yahoo.com Thu May 31 15:07:20 2007 From: dataflash at yahoo.com (Ian Fisher) Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 14:07:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out Message-ID: <479571.95577.qm@web61015.mail.yahoo.com> Are the calipers installed with the bleed screws pointed up? Why are we using this list? Ian ----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Nimz To: Shotimes at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:22:31 AM Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out I take a plastic bottle, drill a hole in the cap big enough to get my 1/4" thin wall clear tubing through it. Them put a bolt into the end of the tubing and clamp it on with a hose clamp. Just above the bolt I then cut a short 3/8" slit in the hose. This will expand as you force fluid out then collapse and seal when the pressure is off. Just one more way to keep air from traveling back up the hose. But if the hose is long enough air traveling back into the caliper is not the problem. Usually too loose of threads at the bleeder screws is where the air gets back in from. I also have the engine running so the power brake feature is working. Much easier on the legs. Paul I though the Shotimes list was dead????? On 5/29/2007 8:57:40 AM, Zach Leahy (leahyz at gmail.com) wrote: > Easier method, but you have to make a tool. > > Get a 20z or liter soda bottle, a length of clear tubing that just fits > over > the bleeder (3ft or so), and a threaded hose barb. Take the cap of the > bottle and drill a hole in it, then thread the barb into it. You want it > to > be a good tight seal, so work your way up the drill sizes until you can > just > barely thread it in. Put the hose on the barb fitting. Punch a hole in > the > bottom (opposite cap) end of the bottle. > > Attach the hose of your bleeder bottle to the bleed screw, zip-tie or > somehow attach the bottle to something above the bleeder with the cap > facing > down. Open the bleeder. Fill Reservoir. Pump brakes 15-20 times and > check > the hose for any air bubbles. Seeing none, close the bleeder, remove the > hose, and go to the next wheel. Start on Driver rear then Pass rear then > Pass front, then driver front. For a full flush of the brakes I go > around > the car about 3 times. > You'll need to keep filling the reservoir on the the > M/C. If you let it run out, you have to start over. > > Works like a champ, costs $3 to build (including the soda) and only requir _______________________________________________ Shotimes mailing list Shotimes at autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes ____________________________________________________________________________________ It's here! Your new message! Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ From aa8rf at yahoo.com Thu May 31 21:00:24 2007 From: aa8rf at yahoo.com (Jim Heaton) Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 20:00:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Shotimes] (no subject) Message-ID: <562741.72499.qm@web36809.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Helloooooooooooooooooooo Jim '96 TR - Welded, FPS tuner, Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, Opened stock exhaust for that V-8 burble '98 TR - Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, Opened stock exhaust for that V-8 burble '07 Saab 93 Aero convertible Looking for V-8 SHO parts: AC manifold and some plumbing, fair or better chromie wheels for winter, front gray floor mats. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ From bmalachuk at gmail.com Thu May 31 21:14:57 2007 From: bmalachuk at gmail.com (Bruce Malachuk) Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 23:14:57 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <562741.72499.qm@web36809.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <562741.72499.qm@web36809.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Echo.........Echo........Echo......... On 5/31/07, Jim Heaton wrote: > > Helloooooooooooooooooooo > > Jim > > '96 TR - Welded, FPS tuner, Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, > Opened stock exhaust for that V-8 burble > '98 TR - Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, Opened stock exhaust > for that V-8 burble > '07 Saab 93 Aero convertible > > Looking for V-8 SHO parts: AC manifold and some plumbing, fair or better > chromie wheels for winter, front gray floor mats. > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. > http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes > -- Bruce J. Malachuk 03 Redfire Mazda 6s - 17k 94 Opal Frost Taurus SHO -126k 96 Toreador Red Taurus SHO - 68k From bmalachuk at gmail.com Thu May 31 21:18:48 2007 From: bmalachuk at gmail.com (Bruce Malachuk) Date: Thu, 31 May 2007 23:18:48 -0400 Subject: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out In-Reply-To: <479571.95577.qm@web61015.mail.yahoo.com> References: <479571.95577.qm@web61015.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: What kind of idiot installs brakes with the bleeders pointing down? I mean is common sense really that far gone in some people? Les of course you have Wilwoods with 4 bleeder screws per caliper, but even then you can't screw it up. I thought shotimes list was a ghost-town. On 5/31/07, Ian Fisher wrote: > > Are the calipers installed with the bleed screws pointed up? > > Why are we using this list? > > Ian > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Paul Nimz > To: Shotimes at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:22:31 AM > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Brake bleeding --getting the air out > > I take a plastic bottle, drill a hole in the cap big enough to get my 1/4" > thin wall clear tubing through it. Them put a bolt into the end of the > tubing > and clamp it on with a hose clamp. Just above the bolt I then cut a short > 3/8" slit in the hose. This will expand as you force fluid out then > collapse > and seal when the pressure is off. Just one more way to keep air from > traveling back up the hose. > > But if the hose is long enough air traveling back into the caliper is not > the > problem. Usually too loose of threads at the bleeder screws is where the > air > gets back in from. > > I also have the engine running so the power brake feature is > working. Much > easier on the legs. > > Paul > > I though the Shotimes list was dead????? > > > On 5/29/2007 8:57:40 AM, Zach Leahy (leahyz at gmail.com) wrote: > > Easier method, but you have to make a tool. > > > > Get a 20z or liter soda bottle, a length of clear tubing that just fits > > over > > the bleeder (3ft or so), and a threaded hose barb. Take the cap of the > > bottle and drill a hole in it, then thread the barb into it. You want > it > > to > > be a good tight seal, so work your way up the drill sizes until you can > > just > > barely thread it in. Put the hose on the barb fitting. Punch a hole in > > the > > bottom (opposite cap) end of the bottle. > > > > Attach the hose of your bleeder bottle to the bleed screw, zip-tie or > > somehow attach the bottle to something above the bleeder with the cap > > facing > > down. Open the bleeder. Fill Reservoir. Pump brakes 15-20 times and > > check > > the hose for any air bubbles. Seeing none, close the bleeder, remove > the > > hose, and go to the next wheel. Start on Driver rear then Pass rear > then > > Pass front, then driver front. For a full flush of the brakes I go > > around > > the car about 3 times. > > You'll need to keep filling the reservoir on the the > > M/C. If you let it run out, you have to start over. > > > > Works like a champ, costs $3 to build (including the soda) and only > requir > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes > > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > It's here! Your new message! > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar. > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ > _______________________________________________ > Shotimes mailing list > Shotimes at autox.team.net > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes > -- Bruce J. Malachuk 03 Redfire Mazda 6s - 17k 94 Opal Frost Taurus SHO -126k 96 Toreador Red Taurus SHO - 68k From _cajun_ at myway.com Thu May 31 22:26:20 2007 From: _cajun_ at myway.com (_cajun_ at myway.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2007 00:26:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Shotimes] (no subject) Message-ID: <20070601042620.A7B4A7E428@mprdmxin.myway.com> HOWDY--- On Thu 05/31, Jim Heaton < aa8rf at yahoo.com > wrote: From: Jim Heaton [mailto: aa8rf at yahoo.com]To: shotimes at autox.team.netDate: Thu, 31 May 2007 20:00:24 -0700 (PDT)Subject: [Shotimes] (no subject)HellooooooooooooooooooooJim'96 TR - Welded, FPS tuner, Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, Opened stock exhaust for that V-8 burble'98 TR - Copper Motorcraft plugs, Poor man's intake, Opened stock exhaust for that V-8 burble'07 Saab 93 Aero convertible Looking for V-8 SHO parts: AC manifold and some plumbing, fair or better chromie wheels for winter, front gray floor mats.____________________________________________________________________________________Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/_______________________________________________Shotimes mailing listShotimes at autox.team.nethttp://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes _______________________________________________ No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding. Make My Way your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com