[Spridgets] Air Compressor Fittings

[Frank Clarici]

David Lieb wrote:
> I have finally gotten the wiring done for my air compressor. Now it is time 
> to do some plumbing for it. Grassroots Motorsports recommends using 3/4" 
> schedule L or K copper tubing for the main run with 1/2" drops. Fine with 
> me. Questions arise as to appropriate hose to connect from the compressor to 
> the tubing, whose filter and regulator to use, etc. Speak to me!

Do NOT use a chinese made filter/regulator unless you want to replace it 
twice a year. And that includes crapsmans brand.
I have a set up I bought at the real tools supply
Van Sant Industrial supply but they are local.
I also use PVC pipe (schedule 40) for my air lines and they have been in 
use for over 10 years with only one burst.
So Never, EVER stick an open flame heater UNDER the PVC air pipe because 
it will grow to 15 times it's normal size before bursting and scaring 
the crap out of everybody in the garage.
Other than that, no leaks, no problems, but do use the primer and 
correct glue. Install drip tubes with valves to get the water out of the 
lines directly under your air outlets.
Install ball valves to shut down lines.
I hard piped my compressor with 1/2" galvanized to a manifold where it 
goes to PVC. Strap the pipe and bolt the compressor down. If it all is 
floating, use a rubber hose from comp to manifold.
For air hoses Flexeel can not be beat, avoid those hard to roll up HD 
and HF specials. They will burst. The Flex-eels roll up beatifully, and 
I have lots of years out of them, probably 7 or 8 and still in perfect 
shape. I do have a goodyear (US made) rubber hose in the garage and it 
is showing it's age but it's about 10 years old.
I also have a couple of cheap recoil hoses near things where a blow gun 
or powdercoater is used, they are OK as long as there is a shut off at 
the pipe end, they tend to leak, kink, and fail in a few years but they 
are cheap and convenient. Good luck finding decent air tools, even the 
expensive ones are made in china these days. Yard sale!!!
A word of advise because I know it gets cold in Chicago.
Watch the temp and the water in the copper lines when it's below 
freezing, a little water in the ball valves might break the valve.
Drain the pipes daily in the winter. Be sure to have a water separator
at the manifold before the regulator and make provisions so you can 
add/remove/change fittings, separators, regulators, and gauges when the 
time comes. You don't want to cut out all that copper and try to piece 
it back to replace a regulator. Unions, couplers, whatever it takes.
-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ