[Spridgets] BI rear brake

Peter C peter at nosimport.com
Tue Oct 9 07:39:54 MDT 2007


At 04:26 AM 10/9/2007, BCAH at aol.com wrote:

>I was looking at a BI yesterday and noticed that  the rear brake adjusting
>was done  by turning a square peg on the inside of  the backing 
>plate. On my BI,
>I adjust the rear brakes by turning a slotted screw  on the outside of the
>wheel. Is there any significance to this as to year?   I put mine 
>together from
>a pile of parts years ago. Also, is it true that there  were only a few true
>wire wheel 1'4 elliptic BI  from the factory? I am  still trying to identify
>which axle I have,--is it a wire wheel version or a  solid wheel 
>one. I figure
>measuring the hand brake rods would tell the tale.From  center of hole to
>center of hole. Anyone out there have any measurements?  If the PO 
>did just put
>wire wheel axles into a solid wheel car, the shaft is a  little 
>short. A fellow
>in the UK recommended pressing the shaft out from the  splined knock 
>off hub by
>1/'2 inch. I can not imagine how much force that would  take. I'm putting a
>breathed on 1275 in it and do not want to be in the axle  breaking 
>business.Any
>thoughts out there. Maybe getting those high dollar racing  solid wheel
>shafts and then maybe bolting on splined hub adapters? What is the  collected
>wisdom?  Thanks people,---Bob C in  Kansas
======================
Bob,   From your description of the brake adjuster, you should have 
the "late 948" brakes. The wheel cylinder has two opposing pistons 
and the adjustment is from the backside using the 2 wedgies. (The 
Bugeye would have had a single piston sliding cylinder with 
adjustment done through the brake drum and by turning the snail-cam 
at the end of the cylinder.) I say late 948 because you must still 
have all of the 1/4 elliptic stuff.
  So, call the axle from a 61-64 Midget with wire wheels, and I think 
you'll be fine.

Peter C. 


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