[Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76

[Andrew Payne]

Fantastic!

Frank this looks like  a good base for my solution.  I spose that one could
also brace the area with 2x4s mitered to about the right angle to distribute
the force while cutting out the rot, then pop 'em out when done.  Assuming
that one is replacing from the high pedal area to the just into the rear wheel
well, would you add any additional bracing? Is the rear spring supported by
the floor, or just drilled through to annother assembly?

Cheers

-----Original Message-----
From: "Frank Clarici" <spritenut at comcast.net>
To: "Andrew Payne" <andrewpayne at intrex.net>
Sent: 9/17/08 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76

Just pick up some 20 ga sheet metal from a local metal shop or check out
a duct fabricator shop in your area.
I had the local heating duct guy take metal and bend up 1" edges all
around. Then I used some self drilling hex head screws and zapped it to
the inner sill, back board, frame in front of the seat and tunnel.
It works. You can always undo those screws a few at a time and weld the
holes like spot welds for a permanent job then cut the old rusty floor
out from the under side.
Same thing with the foot wells, just add 3" to the front toe kick as
that is where they usually rust out too.

--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ