[Spridgets] Clutch Slave Cylinder

[cclabaw at juno.com]

Or you can use a socket-head set screw the same way.  Then there's a way to
get it out if you need/choose to.

Clay L.
'67 Sprite


-- Bob Spruck <mgmaven at bellsouth.net> wrote:
Next time you're in there, use this trick we vintage racers use:

With the slave cylinder off, apply Locktite to the upper bolt and screw it
tight into the transmission. Cut off the head and chamfer the edges of the
end of the bolt. This way, you have a stud upon which the upper ear of the
cylinder mounts. The lower bolt, which is much more accessible stays the
same. The upper bolt locates the cylinder while the lower bolt holds it
onto the transmission.

I can't help you with the bleeding. That's a bear anyway you try it.

Bob


 Dean Swanson wrote:
>I just spent two hours on my back installing a new slave cylinder (I could
>not get the top mounting bolt in or a wrench on it) only to have it leak
>where the metal line attaches.
>
>The old one was installed with the bleed screw out the top and with the
>rigid line out the back (opposite of the push rod).
>
>After looking at the moss
>(http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36484) and
>V.B. catalogs it looks like the bleed screw should stick out the back
>(opposite of the push rod) with the rigid line going in the top - what is
>correct?
>
>
>
>Dean Swanson
>
>'62 A.H. Sprite mkII
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