[Spridgets] Still no workie

[chris_west]

Ed, et al :  I have been following this thread and feel the need to add
my advice.  Remember that 3 thing are needed for the engine to start. 1)
Compression.  Have you confirmed good compression in all cylinders? 
Anything above 70 psi cold should be enough to at least sputter and 90+
should start fine.  2) Good spark at the right time.  A strong spark at
TDC +/- 10 degrees would be acceptable.  3) Fuel at the proper air/fuel
ratio.  

Since the engine started (or tried to start) previous to the distributor
swap(s) it seems that the ignition system is the likely culprit. You will
need to have a fully charged battery.  Confirm that #1 cylinder is at TDC
on the compression stroke (both valves closed).  With the distributor cap
off, note the position of the rotor contact arm.  Is it pointing at where
# 1 plug contact is on the cap?  If not, make it so and retighten the
distributor clamp.  (Yes, I know, you are mis-timing the ignition to TDC
- you can retime to 10 BTDC, or whatever your spec is, after you get it
running.)  Next, confirm good spark to the cap by connecting a new spark
plug directly to the coil output, grounding it against the block, and
inducing the coil to produce a spark ( After removing any wires from the
coil neg terminal attach a test lead from there to ground, turn on
ignition and break the ground connection.)  You're looking for a strong
blue (ideal) or yellow (ok) spark at the plug.  If the spark is good,
repeat the test at #1 plug lead after reattaching the distributor cap,
making sure that you have continuity through the coil wire terminal and
#1 plug wire.  Again, a strong spark is what you are looking for.  I know
you checked for spark with the timing light, but it will only show that
current flowed and not the strength of the spark. If you see a good spark
both times, the ignition secondary circuit is probably ok.  Notice that
for these tests, the engine has not been cranked, eliminating any
variables such as starter current draw,  a mistimed camshaft or a fault
in the ignition primary circuit.  

Reattach the wire(s) to the coil neg terminal and repeat both tests, but
now by cranking the engine over.  This will tell you if the fault is in
the primary circuit.  Again, you need to get a good spark at the plug to
pass the test.  If you get this far, the next step is to install 4 new,
properly gapped, spark plugs.  (Your old plugs are no doubt gasoline
fouled and will not allow the engine to start.) Spin the engine over a
few times with all plugs removed to expel any pooled gas from the
cylinders.  Install new plugs.  Crank the engine and see if it starts. 
(Remember to set the choke and not crank for more than a few seconds at a
time.)  Once the engine starts you may need to play with the timing to
get a smooth idle and you can reset the timing to spec after it warms up.
 If the no start condition persists, I would investigate the fuel system.


Chris - AN5L35xxx
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