[Spridgets] Water temp question..

[corvallis at peoplepc.com]

I had a used engine I bought from overseas. I sensed it had been used in a
stationary application. Turns out the rear part of block's water system was
full of sediment.
I had the over-heating symptoms. Nothing would run out of the water system
bleed valve at the back of the engine.
I replaced the valve with a pipe plug, after running a long drill bit in the
hole by hand. Then I would drive it a bit until it was hot and pressurized;
then I'd put on a leather glove and remove the plug with a small socket set.
It would blow all the sediment out. I did this over and over. Periodically I
had to use the long drill bit to clear the hole.
Works fine now. It was a 1500cc Datsun push rod engine which may have been
copied from the olde Austins. Bill in Oregon
=========================================================================
-----Original Message-----
From: Spridgets [mailto:spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Lester
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 6:08 PM
To: bugeye at yahoogroups.com; Spridgets list
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Water temp question..

Ok so here is the latest installment of the devil engine.

Please recall, initially, way back in July (?) I reported poor running and
quick testing showed number 4 cyl to have 185 compression with all other
cylinders in the 215 range.  Also remember that this is a new engine built
by
someone else and currently has about 35 miles on it.

Remember also that one valve adjuster was broken and later examination
reveled
another that was bent (and likely had been that way since I received the
engine) also half of the pushtubes were bentso I replaced all of them.
Adjusted the valve gap.

This car has a 123 Distributor.

I fired her up last week and adjusted the timing by ear just to see how
things
were going to run.  A quick drive showed that the water temp kept climbing.

This weekend I replaced the radiator cap and thermostat with a 160 degree
one.
I also tested the original one which looks new and functions as new.  I used
a
DeWalt IR temp gauge to measure water temp at full open.

After running the car this evening (ambient temp around 83 degrees F with no
direct sun exposure) I observed that the temp climbed slowly and inexorably
to
the high side peg.  To try to eliminate possible timing concerns I ran the
car
in 4th at around 4000 revs and also in 5th at 3000 revs.  I popped the
bonnet
and used the IR temp gauge and measured the thermostat housing at 219 F, the
top left of the radiator (as viewed from the front) was at 219 moving to the
right top showed the same temp.  as I moved down the radiator temps
decreased
to a low of 160 F at the lower right (where the lower radiator hose
attaches).

With the engine off  the car boiled and boiled and boiled.  It did spit some
coolant out but not much.

So wise readers and knowers of things Sprite, what do you think is going on?

My thoughts are these:

Compression loss is due to failed headgasket or similar problem (head
cracked
etc) or

Timing is too far advanced.

All input is recommended.

Thank you.

Lester


> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 8:12 AM, Ewing <oldsaabguy at comcast.net> wrote:
> Good Morning all!
>
> So, the long saga of getting the go-fast engine running is sorta done.  I
am
> back driving the car. WHEEE!!!
>
> But
>
> Water temp with new radiator cap and antifreeze quickly goes up in 65 F
> ambient temps to close to the max on the gauge..
>
> But..
>
> The temp gauge is now reading off the head rather than off the radiator.
My
> thought is that taking the temp measurements here will show a higher temp
> compared to taking it off the radiator but this is where I ask your
> expertise..
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lester
------------------------

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