[Spridgets] Drum brakes to disc brakes MC question

[Rick Fisk]

I'd go with option 3.  The TRW master cylinders are fine.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Jul 30, 2015, at 4:16 PM, John O'Brien via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi List:
> I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago.  I never changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but always had a hard brake pedal.  I now need to replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder due to an issue with the clutch side.  I have looked at a couple of options:
> 1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in the bore that has not honed out)  (Cost $12.85 + shipping)
> 2. buy a new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on sale) Cost $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.
> 3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss (TRW brand, currently on sale) and shorten the push rods  (approx. 36% easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping
> 4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Gerard for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or buy shorter push rods. Cost $325 + shipping both ways
> 5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo booster Moss sells to give more power without having to modify the  pushrods (this option is supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the brakes) Cost $98.95 for the MC + $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and a few pieces of brake line to plumb in the servo.
> 
> Has anyone on the list done this last option?  If so, how did it turn out?
> 
> Any experience with the TRW MC vs. the AP?
> 
> Suggestions on the best option?  I'm trying to balance cost vs. the best outcome.
> 
> Thanks
> John O'Brien
> '61 Bugeye
> '65 BJ8
> 
> 
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