[Spridgets] 995 Huffaker race engine question

[Gerard]

 So, I was told I can post pictures, so here goes…


> On Mar 30, 2015, at 6:13 PM, Gerard <pixelsmith at gerardsgarage.com> wrote:
> 
> The 948 and early 1098 engines were not designed for PCV and, as mentioned, only had a draught tube. Obviously this doesn’t do anything unless the car is moving.  Adding additional vents does sometimes help, but it usually will not cure the problem entirely. Setting up a PVC is beneficial too, but again, does not always work. YMMV
> 
> There are multiple issues to get the scroll seal to function properly. For one thing, it’s not uncommon for the surface that faces the gap to get wear either from actual contact or from ingress/egress of debris. This abrasion can destroy the required tolerance to function properly. Correct tolerance is .0015" to .004”. So, what would be recommended when rebuilding an engine, is to set the half moon piece before it is line bored and than not remove it. This will clean up the surface, store the tolerance, and have it centered. I have photos of the kind of damage I mention above, but unfortunately cannot post photos here. This is the best case scenario for potential success, but often times they will still weep or leak anyway. Even if they don’t leak much when running, chances are they will drip, drip, drip when you shut off the engine. I have been successful doing it this way. However,  if you really want to cure the leak, the seal kit I have is the only sure cure. I have these on about a dozen race engines around the country and many more on street cars. Everybody is very happy with the results, even Hap Waldrop, who, because of his experience with the Moss kit, didn’t believe it would work. After installing two on customer cars, he gave this endorsement:
> 
> http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2681890,2681890#msg-2681890 <http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2681890,2681890#msg-2681890>
> 
> I have one particular well known shop who has installed more than 5 with great results.
> 
> See more about it here:
> 
> http://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/SealKit/SealKit.htm <http://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/SealKit/SealKit.htm>
> 
> Gerard
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2015, at 11:00 AM, spridgets-request at autox.team.net <mailto:spridgets-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2015 13:16:16 +0000 (UTC)
>> From: "lotuspilot at frontier.com <mailto:lotuspilot at frontier.com>" <lotuspilot at frontier.com <mailto:lotuspilot at frontier.com>>
>> To: Spridgets List <spridgets at autox.team.net <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>>
>> Subject: [Spridgets] 995 Huffaker race engine question
>> Message-ID:
>> 	<928517665.1380486.1427721376934.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com <mailto:928517665.1380486.1427721376934.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Hi Guys and Gals,
>> I just rebuilt a Huffaker race engine that had been stored away for decades. ?I started it after the rebuild and all looked well after I discovered that I had the distributor drive gear in 180 out. ?That took me a while to figure out until I replaced all of the plug wires 1 went to 4 and 4 went to 1 and 3 to 2 and 2 to 3.
>> Ok. ?Here is my real question after running for about 20 minutes with varying engine speed, I noticed that about a quart and a half of oil decided it didn't wish to stay in the engine any longer and was being deposited on the driveway by way of the hole in the bottom of the transmission. ?What happened here? ?What should I check?
>> By the way, the engine is running 11.5 :1 compression and all so high compression. ?It sounded spectacular. ?I am dying to drive it once I get you all to give me some idea of what may have happened.
>> Thanks a bunch for all of your thoughts.
>> Mike C
> 

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