[Spridgets] Brake light switches - hydraulic and non-hydraulic types

[WeslakeMonza1330 at aol.com]

Well I fitted the new switch today.  I did manage to twist the 2 wires  off 
it but then made a better job of soldering wires onto the terminals than  
whoever made the switch did.  I also fitted male spade end connectors so I  
could use the existing wiring from the hydraulic switch.  For now I've also  
left the hydraulic switch and 4-way union in place - removal will be a 
future  job l will do later.
 
I don't understand the whole 3mm free play thing.  The switch goes  from 
being off to being on in about 3mm.  The switch has to be fully wound  into 
the pedal box so that with the brake pedal fully up it is fully pressing  the 
switch contact in.  Once the brake pedal is pressed down the switch  contact 
is released and the brake lights come on.  I guess that pressing  the brake 
pedal puts the brake lights on before the brakes are on, maybe not  such a 
bad thing.  I do have some future brake hydraulic stuff planned so  will 
leave things as they are for now.
 
I plan on fitting a couple of small zip ties to the switch to hold it  
together since it only has flimsy crimping doing so at present.
 
At some point I'll get the inner wing modified so I can replace the switch  
without unbolting the pedal box (also need to fit captive nuts to the 
inside of  the car where the existing ones rusted/stripped out forcing the use of 
a nut and  an assistant to hold a spanner on it.  I do have ARP stainless 
bolts  retaining the pedal box now so won't have the same issue in the future 
(I guess  BMC didn't use copper grease on the factory install).
 
Not least my 69 Sprite is fitted with the later pedal box including the  
later pedal I call the 'hammer head' - possibly both only used on the 1500  
Midget.
 
Finally, I'll be on the look out for a better brake switch.
 
Regards
 
 
Daniel
 
 
In a message dated 02/05/2015 14:48:12 GMT Daylight Time,  
72spridget at gmail.com writes:

Current  switch is probably marginal, since firm pedal means no air 
anywhere in the  hydraulics. OTOH, it is possible that it is simply not passing 
enough current  to drive the brake lights. A small relay might take care of the 
problem, at  least for a while.  
Box doesn't need completely removed to install the mechanical switch; no  
need to mess with the hydraulic connections and the top two bolts only need  
loosening. I am sure that you are aware of the need to leave a few mm of  
travel in the pedal when setting the depth of the switch? Covered in the  
Haynes manual page 167. Bit of a nuisance having to undo the bolts to adjust  it 
later...
I would use the later union and save another 3 grams of weight ;-)
Use an NOS switch rather than the current replacements unless you are  fond 
of replacing them.

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