[Spridgets] Head Stud Torque Setting

[Ron Soave]

Missing rocker nuts 1&4, use of nylok on others, double nut on yet another. Sweet!

Ron Soave

> On Nov 28, 2015, at 7:34 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> This photo is of the head on my newly acquired '72 Midget.  I pulled the rocker cover to adjust the valves.  See the dimples in the top of the head studs?  These studs get torqued to  50 lb/ft.
> 
> What else do you see wrong on this head?  This is just as I found it when I pulled the cover.  The previous owner said he couldn't get the engine to run right.  The valves were all adjusted to 0.006 or 0.007". 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my keyboard
> 
>> On Nov 28, 2015, at 7:34 AM, rrengineer.mike via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am removing the hollow tube pushrods from the 1275 in my Bug eye and replacing them with standard solid pushrods.  I am doing this to prevent oil from pooling on the top of the head.  This oil is being drawn into the engine and hence the blue smoke on acceleration.   At least that is the theory that David Anton agrees with.  The hollow pushrod diameter is not much less than the hole in the head it passes through.  When I change the oil it takes forever for the oil to drain down into the engine.  What I am asking is about the torque setting for the head nuts.  My Haynes manual says 42 ft/pd or 50 ft/pd for studs marked "22" or have a drill point.  What are they talking about?
>> Mike MacLean
>> 
>> 
>> Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
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