From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net  Wed Sep  2 17:21:38 2020
From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan Kubanoff)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 19:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
Message-ID: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>

So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight.  But They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting destroyed by mice or other things.

How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration?

Ryan
74 midget in pieces

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From bmwwxman at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 17:26:36 2020
From: bmwwxman at gmail.com (bmwwxman)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 18:26:36 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
In-Reply-To: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAJgjnurgG=oDYSJn1kgqFnvbzcivrGXDLVaJUzFtx9_2QW2EEQ@mail.gmail.com>

Gotta be somewhere indoors, Ryan. Flat stacked.   If they stay mounted
maybe hang from garage rafters?

On Wed, Sep 2, 2020, 6:22 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the
> body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my
> one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I
> looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to
> store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight.  But
> They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are
> not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only
> storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting
> destroyed by mice or other things.
>
> How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration?
>
> Ryan
> 74 midget in pieces
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/bmwwxman at gmail.com
>
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From soavero at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  2 17:57:31 2020
From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 18:57:31 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
In-Reply-To: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <08E0C339-22BD-4178-A204-35E66C0C8DCC@yahoo.com>

I store A LOT of tires in my basement (usually 5 or 6 sets of race tires for 3 race cars and summer tires for 3 other cars). Toss em in a hefty bag each, you?re good to go. 

Ron Soave

> On Sep 2, 2020, at 6:22 PM, Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight.  But They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting destroyed by mice or other things.
> 
> How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration? 
> 
> Ryan
> 74 midget in pieces
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com
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From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Wed Sep  2 18:24:48 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2020 20:24:48 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
References: <gbh7arlheimsv02espt98c5p.1599092480112.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <gbh7arlheimsv02espt98c5p.1599092480112@email.lge.com>

Sunlight is the big culprit.? Black contractor trash bags will do you just fine.As long as you are in a place that they will not get stolen , through winter , leave them stacked outside.? ?If it were any longer than through spring , then garage rafters , basement , throw the mower out of the shed...although regardless , bag them in an opaque bag!? ?ChuckSent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: Ryan Kubanoff via SpridgetsDate: Wed, Sep 2, 2020 7:22 PMTo: spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] tire storage??
  
   So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight. ?But They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting destroyed by mice or other things. 
  
  
   
  
  
   How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration?
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Ryan
  
  
   74 midget in pieces
  
  
   
   
 
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From refisk at chartermi.net  Wed Sep  2 19:01:14 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 21:01:14 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
In-Reply-To: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <478758934.18855.1599088898414@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <E29F0EAF-3523-490E-8089-1922AF4C367A@chartermi.net>

Ryan,

I wash the tire and wheel, reduce pressure to about 5 psi, put them in a trash bag, and use vacuum to remove as much air as possible.  Then I store them upright (not flat!) in a corner of my family room.  The room is quite large and my wife never knows they are there because they are behind her treadmill, which never gets used.  lol

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On Sep 2, 2020, at 7:22 PM, Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight.  But They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting destroyed by mice or other things.
> 
> How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration? 
> 
> Ryan
> 74 midget in pieces
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
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From refisk at chartermi.net  Wed Sep  2 19:02:21 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 21:02:21 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] tire storage??
In-Reply-To: <gbh7arlheimsv02espt98c5p.1599092480112@email.lge.com>
References: <gbh7arlheimsv02espt98c5p.1599092480112@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <E93F2F2F-20D7-4B67-BDA7-5FE036D76E1F@chartermi.net>

Race tires don't like temps below 20 F, so my stuff gets stored indoors.

Sent from my keyboard

> On Sep 2, 2020, at 8:25 PM, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Sunlight is the big culprit.  Black contractor trash bags will do you just fine.
> As long as you are in a place that they will not get stolen , through winter , leave them stacked outside.   If it were any longer than through spring , then garage rafters , basement , throw the mower out of the shed...although regardless , bag them in an opaque bag!   
> Chuck
> 
> Sent from my LG Mobile
> 
> ------ Original message------
> From: Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets
> Date: Wed, Sep 2, 2020 7:22 PM
> To: spridgets;
> Cc:
> Subject:[Spridgets] tire storage??
> 
> So now that my midget is a bare shell and will be for a while why I do the body work i need to store the tires out of the way. This means not in my one car garage where I will need every square inch to work on the car. I looked online to find the best way to store tires and they all say not to store them outside and expose them to cold temperatures or sunlight.  But They would normally be exposed to that when they are on the car. These are not high performance race tires they are street tires. And I am only storing them till the spring (hopefully). I just don't want them getting destroyed by mice or other things.
> 
> How do/did you store your tires when you were doing a restoration? 
> 
> Ryan
> 74 midget in pieces
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
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From frog.aye at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 12:19:18 2020
From: frog.aye at gmail.com (Hal Faulkner)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 11:19:18 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
Message-ID: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>

Listerati,
Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
.035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
exhaust manifold is snug.

What would you do?
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From soavero at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  5 12:43:26 2020
From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 13:43:26 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5077EC26-A9F6-40A4-A159-CBCED38E49A8@yahoo.com>

Elegantly, get someone to make you stepped washers. Hillbilly, I?ve taken thick washers and ground down half to get a step. .032 washers (or thinner skim stock) folded over in a vise and jammed in there work as well. 

Ron Soave

> On Sep 5, 2020, at 1:21 PM, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Listerati,
> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The exhaust manifold is snug.  
> 
> What would you do?  
> 
> <IntakeExhaustManifoldFlanges.jpg>
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com


From derf247 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 12:43:25 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 13:43:25 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx7-aG=uQCEs__EDpLGiWU-rQDeORcgxd59bwUMNx4ZqciA@mail.gmail.com>

Get some fat, wide washers and grind down one side.  Or, if you have a
mill..............

On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 1:22 PM Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Listerati,
> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
> overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
> with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
> 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
> by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
> is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
> the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
> measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
> course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
> the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
> ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
> .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
> exhaust manifold is snug.
>
> What would you do?
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Sep  5 12:45:03 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 18:45:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM6-RjeuX=mPh52dmrjyXNKKeSoNaJxy_FD0CL6QL8L=gHdpJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>

 Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.? Being both Maniflo they should have matched thicknan.? I have the LCB header (I don't know who makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.? They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges. 
Mike MacLean

    On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Listerati,Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold?with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.? The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.? Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.? Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.? The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.? The exhaust manifold is snug.??
What would you do???
------------------------

spridgets at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation: $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
  
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From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 12:52:47 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2020 14:52:47 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
References: <mf5m19p5ghk8e1tgrmm38ch7.1599331795734.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <mf5m19p5ghk8e1tgrmm38ch7.1599331795734@email.lge.com>

Try brazing up one side of the washer and file/grind the brass to about the thickness you need.Or!? ?Grind down 1 side of the washer to get the washer to lay flat.OR!Add or subtract to the manifold or header flange to get them to match.Now I wanna know the final "fix" on this one!ChuckSent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: Hal Faulkner via SpridgetsDate: Sat, Sep 5, 2020 2:21 PMTo: Spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] Manifold flange thicknessListerati,Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold?with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.? The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.? Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.? Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.? The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.? The exhaust manifold is snug.??What would you do???
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From refisk at chartermi.net  Sat Sep  5 13:12:23 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:12:23 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>

Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.  No excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?  Ridiculous.  

Have you contacted them?

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.  They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges. 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Listerati,
> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The exhaust manifold is snug.  
> 
> What would you do?  
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
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From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 13:26:48 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2020 15:26:48 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Maniflow headers
References: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>

Anyone have a 3 into one header?If so can you send me a picture of the 3 into 1 collector?Thank you!ChuckSent from my LG Mobile
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From derf247 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 13:29:41 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 14:29:41 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Maniflow headers
In-Reply-To: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
References: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188.ref@email.lge.com>
 <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx79AacfHYTivuy6j+teNbicSwnuq=f3m_zCZTBGHPQrtDg@mail.gmail.com>

https://www.spridgetmania.com/part/C-AHT13/3-Into-1-Manifold-Competition-For-Sprite---Mg-Midget


On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 2:27 PM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone have a 3 into one header?
> If so can you send me a picture of the 3 into 1 collector?
> Thank you!
> Chuck
>
> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>
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From weslake1330 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:30:55 2020
From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:30:55 +0100
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>
References: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
 <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>
Message-ID: <CAMhoh1Vu+BNW4Pt-k+ZEpXVuxgg60XzCwyZOockB5OG6D799pQ@mail.gmail.com>

I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct thickness is to
establish if the exhaust is incorrect or if the inlet manifold is correct
and then invite them to send a replacement part.  I'd also want to be sure
that something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.

Regards

Daniel S

On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.  No
> excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?
> Ridiculous.
>
> Have you contacted them?
>
> Rick
>
> Sent from my keyboard
>
> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they
> should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who
> makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.
> They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via
> Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Listerati,
> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
> overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
> with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
> 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
> by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
> is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
> the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
> measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
> course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
> the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
> ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
> .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
> exhaust manifold is snug.
>
> What would you do?
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>
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From derf247 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:36:50 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 16:36:50 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAMhoh1Vu+BNW4Pt-k+ZEpXVuxgg60XzCwyZOockB5OG6D799pQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
 <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>
 <CAMhoh1Vu+BNW4Pt-k+ZEpXVuxgg60XzCwyZOockB5OG6D799pQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx79BY1HhMNctaxWYxD8Pp95LB1reHBxrKNBNHqru6zrqEA@mail.gmail.com>

I would carefully grind washers.  Even if both flanges are the correct
thickness you will most likely have gaskets of differing thicknesses.

On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct thickness is to
> establish if the exhaust is incorrect or if the inlet manifold is correct
> and then invite them to send a replacement part.  I'd also want to be sure
> that something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.
>
> Regards
>
> Daniel S
>
> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.
>> No excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?
>> Ridiculous.
>>
>> Have you contacted them?
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> Sent from my keyboard
>>
>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they
>> should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who
>> makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.
>> They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via
>> Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listerati,
>> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
>> overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
>> with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
>> 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
>> by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
>> is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
>> the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
>> measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
>> course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
>> the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
>> ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
>> .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
>> exhaust manifold is snug.
>>
>> What would you do?
>>
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>>
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>
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From weslake1330 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:37:28 2020
From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:37:28 +0100
Subject: [Spridgets] Maniflow headers
In-Reply-To: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
References: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188.ref@email.lge.com>
 <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <CAMhoh1W4MM0=DjTtySThm+TUZBce_9hbtgArpDmFDZtSmBZrFA@mail.gmail.com>

Photo attached but not this system won't fit on the Sprite/Midget!  This
system puts the larger bore of the centre pipe in the centre of the
collector box.  However, the actual system that does fit, puts the larger
bore of the Centre pipe on the outside of the collector box.  The collector
box is flat in design for optimal ground clearance (even on a road going
Sprite/Midget).

Regards


Daniel

On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:27, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone have a 3 into one header?
> If so can you send me a picture of the 3 into 1 collector?
> Thank you!
> Chuck
>
> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>
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From weslake1330 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:38:51 2020
From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:38:51 +0100
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAEAAx79BY1HhMNctaxWYxD8Pp95LB1reHBxrKNBNHqru6zrqEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
 <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>
 <CAMhoh1Vu+BNW4Pt-k+ZEpXVuxgg60XzCwyZOockB5OG6D799pQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEAAx79BY1HhMNctaxWYxD8Pp95LB1reHBxrKNBNHqru6zrqEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMhoh1X-o2+miWETWWuy69TOk5KUB=tHmZRm2E=W=6sV2WfNQA@mail.gmail.com>

On the A-series it should be a single gasket that seals both the inlet and
the exhaust ports at the head.

On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, derf <derf247 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would carefully grind washers.  Even if both flanges are the correct
> thickness you will most likely have gaskets of differing thicknesses.
>
> On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct thickness is to
>> establish if the exhaust is incorrect or if the inlet manifold is correct
>> and then invite them to send a replacement part.  I'd also want to be sure
>> that something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Daniel S
>>
>> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.
>>> No excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?
>>> Ridiculous.
>>>
>>> Have you contacted them?
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> Sent from my keyboard
>>>
>>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?
>>> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they
>>> should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who
>>> makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.
>>> They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via
>>> Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Listerati,
>>> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
>>> overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
>>> with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
>>> 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
>>> by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
>>> is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
>>> the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
>>> measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
>>> course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
>>> the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
>>> ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
>>> .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
>>> exhaust manifold is snug.
>>>
>>> What would you do?
>>>
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>>>
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>>
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>>
>
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From derf247 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:43:27 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 16:43:27 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAMhoh1X-o2+miWETWWuy69TOk5KUB=tHmZRm2E=W=6sV2WfNQA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1371614992.3598302.1599331503946@mail.yahoo.com>
 <766BF53C-FD55-402F-B7AC-5C5658473D44@chartermi.net>
 <CAMhoh1Vu+BNW4Pt-k+ZEpXVuxgg60XzCwyZOockB5OG6D799pQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEAAx79BY1HhMNctaxWYxD8Pp95LB1reHBxrKNBNHqru6zrqEA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMhoh1X-o2+miWETWWuy69TOk5KUB=tHmZRm2E=W=6sV2WfNQA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx7_LcK9L1BqDP5sWA0TKzVFfQfjqPZp-deKam9BBOwxtag@mail.gmail.com>

I sit corrected.  It's been a while since I had a manifold off.  Seems like
my Titan single HIF6 intake had a separate gasked, though.

On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:39 PM Weslake1330 <weslake1330 at gmail.com> wrote:

> On the A-series it should be a single gasket that seals both the inlet and
> the exhaust ports at the head.
>
> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, derf <derf247 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I would carefully grind washers.  Even if both flanges are the correct
>> thickness you will most likely have gaskets of differing thicknesses.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct thickness is to
>>> establish if the exhaust is incorrect or if the inlet manifold is correct
>>> and then invite them to send a replacement part.  I'd also want to be sure
>>> that something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>> Daniel S
>>>
>>> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.
>>>> No excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?
>>>> Ridiculous.
>>>>
>>>> Have you contacted them?
>>>>
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my keyboard
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?
>>>> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they
>>>> should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who
>>>> makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.
>>>> They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges.
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via
>>>> Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Listerati,
>>>> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term
>>>> overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275
>>>> with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
>>>> 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also
>>>> by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have
>>>> is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing
>>>> the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
>>>> measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of
>>>> course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on
>>>> the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which
>>>> ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about
>>>> .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The
>>>> exhaust manifold is snug.
>>>>
>>>> What would you do?
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------
>>>>
>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>>>> ------------------------
>>>>
>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------
>>>>
>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>>>
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>>>
>>
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From weslake1330 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:44:38 2020
From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:44:38 +0100
Subject: [Spridgets] Maniflow headers
In-Reply-To: <CAMhoh1W4MM0=DjTtySThm+TUZBce_9hbtgArpDmFDZtSmBZrFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188.ref@email.lge.com>
 <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
 <CAMhoh1W4MM0=DjTtySThm+TUZBce_9hbtgArpDmFDZtSmBZrFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMhoh1Xg_cJqois9g74-RygxZ-PZVT0aEfW_u2972VmMJxzmog@mail.gmail.com>

Ok wrong photo!  This photo is of the manifold that does fit and the
larger centre pipe is on the outside of the collector box.  The price was
eye-watering!

On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, Weslake1330 <weslake1330 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Photo attached but not this system won't fit on the Sprite/Midget!  This
> system puts the larger bore of the centre pipe in the centre of the
> collector box.  However, the actual system that does fit, puts the larger
> bore of the Centre pipe on the outside of the collector box.  The collector
> box is flat in design for optimal ground clearance (even on a road going
> Sprite/Midget).
>
> Regards
>
>
> Daniel
>
> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:27, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Anyone have a 3 into one header?
>> If so can you send me a picture of the 3 into 1 collector?
>> Thank you!
>> Chuck
>>
>> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>
>
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From derf247 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:49:19 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 16:49:19 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Maniflow headers
In-Reply-To: <CAMhoh1Xg_cJqois9g74-RygxZ-PZVT0aEfW_u2972VmMJxzmog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188.ref@email.lge.com>
 <ekk0rm0ga2shrt0kmubj2e0p.1599333898188@email.lge.com>
 <CAMhoh1W4MM0=DjTtySThm+TUZBce_9hbtgArpDmFDZtSmBZrFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAMhoh1Xg_cJqois9g74-RygxZ-PZVT0aEfW_u2972VmMJxzmog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx7_6dffVLnOVopUJRxCTS3CMUH2UhZXTBhDXqGwfGxtSyw@mail.gmail.com>

MOre prices

https://www.spridgetmania.com/part/C-AHT11/Medium-Lcb-Exhaust-Manifold-Header-Sprite-Midget-With-1275cc


On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:45 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ok wrong photo!  This photo is of the manifold that does fit and the
> larger centre pipe is on the outside of the collector box.  The price was
> eye-watering!
>
> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, Weslake1330 <weslake1330 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Photo attached but not this system won't fit on the Sprite/Midget!  This
>> system puts the larger bore of the centre pipe in the centre of the
>> collector box.  However, the actual system that does fit, puts the larger
>> bore of the Centre pipe on the outside of the collector box.  The collector
>> box is flat in design for optimal ground clearance (even on a road going
>> Sprite/Midget).
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>> Daniel
>>
>> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:27, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone have a 3 into one header?
>>> If so can you send me a picture of the 3 into 1 collector?
>>> Thank you!
>>> Chuck
>>>
>>> *Sent from my LG Mobile*
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>>
>> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>
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From weslake1330 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 15:52:03 2020
From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:52:03 +0100
Subject: [Spridgets] The manifold that didn't fit
Message-ID: <CAMhoh1UUm19zmUWOyxfGt8tL2xaHrpO-VET-6OemmbeX430Pbg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Chuck, List,

Here is the folder of the manifold that didn't fit.  The collector box
looks about the same only here you can see the larger centre pipe sits in
the middle.

You won't see this photo in even the best Spridget books!

Regards


Daniel
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From refisk at chartermi.net  Sat Sep  5 16:04:24 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 18:04:24 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <CAEAAx7_LcK9L1BqDP5sWA0TKzVFfQfjqPZp-deKam9BBOwxtag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEAAx7_LcK9L1BqDP5sWA0TKzVFfQfjqPZp-deKam9BBOwxtag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D651FD6B-4AC2-4496-AB2D-B8CD03456BE4@chartermi.net>

Since all 5 ports are right in a row only one gasket is used.  Even if separate gaskets were used everything would have to be the same thickness because on 4 of the studs the nuts and washers are shared between two ports.

Sent from my keyboard

>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 5:43 PM, derf <derf247 at gmail.com> wrote:
> ?
> I sit corrected.  It's been a while since I had a manifold off.  Seems like my Titan single HIF6 intake had a separate gasked, though.  
> 
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:39 PM Weslake1330 <weslake1330 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> On the A-series it should be a single gasket that seals both the inlet and the exhaust ports at the head.
>> 
>>> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, derf <derf247 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I would carefully grind washers.  Even if both flanges are the correct thickness you will most likely have gaskets of differing thicknesses.  
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct thickness is to establish if the exhaust is incorrect or if the inlet manifold is correct and then invite them to send a replacement part.  I'd also want to be sure that something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.
>>>> 
>>>> Regards
>>>> 
>>>> Daniel S
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>> Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get their shxt together.  No excuse for this kind of BS.  They make both parts and they don't match?  Ridiculous.  
>>>>> 
>>>>> Have you contacted them?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Rick
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my keyboard
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>>> ?
>>>>>> Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.  Being both Maniflo they should have matched thicknan.  I have the LCB header (I don't know who makes it) on my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single HIF44 carb.  They match perfectly. Supposed to be a standard thickness for the flanges. 
>>>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Listerati,
>>>>>> Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car.  The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake.  Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.  Of course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very cool.  The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange.  The exhaust manifold is snug.  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What would you do?  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> ------------------------
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>>>>>> ------------------------
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>>>>> ------------------------
>>>>> 
>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>>> 
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>>> 
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>>> ------------------------
>>>> 
>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
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From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net  Sat Sep  5 16:54:27 2020
From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 18:54:27 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Body panel shortage
Message-ID: <D901B6AE-993F-481C-8F32-A0B9B4543EF8@comcast.net>

Went to order patch and repair panels for my midget and found out must are 10 week back ordered and they are not available asking orders from Moss or Vic Brit. Any other options?
Ryan
74 midget

Sent from my iPhone

From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 22:05:00 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2020 00:05:00 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] 20 years ago...
References: <c5215t6lrvr9k3ivsu4fm45b.1599364886687.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <c5215t6lrvr9k3ivsu4fm45b.1599364886687@email.lge.com>

SIGH...My ex has sold her home.? That's a"good thing".? ?My needing to pick up the last of things that remained behind has been bittersweet.? Came across this plaque today....gave cause to sit down & think.... 20 years ago....ChuckFossilising as I write....Sent from my LG Mobile
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From Zormecteon at comcast.net  Sun Sep  6 00:14:15 2020
From: Zormecteon at comcast.net (Bill L.)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 23:14:15 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] Body panel shortage
In-Reply-To: <D901B6AE-993F-481C-8F32-A0B9B4543EF8@comcast.net>
References: <D901B6AE-993F-481C-8F32-A0B9B4543EF8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <08875819.20200905231415@comcast.net>

Hello Ryan,

   https://www.ahspares.co.uk/sprite/outer-body-panels/

   Real steel from England, not dung forged steel from China




-- 
Best regards,
 Bill                            mailto:Zormecteon at comcast.net


Hi. I'll be your tagline for this evening. 


From soavero at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 01:51:35 2020
From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 02:51:35 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] 20 years ago...
In-Reply-To: <c5215t6lrvr9k3ivsu4fm45b.1599364886687@email.lge.com>
References: <c5215t6lrvr9k3ivsu4fm45b.1599364886687@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <963662D1-3546-498C-B201-96CE67B12185@yahoo.com>

30 years ago, actually. ?

Happy to help ;)

Ron Soave

> On Sep 5, 2020, at 11:07 PM, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> SIGH...
> My ex has sold her home.  That's a"good thing".   My needing to pick up the last of things that remained behind has been bittersweet.  Came across this plaque today....gave cause to sit down & think.... 20 years ago....
> Chuck
> Fossilising as I write....
> 
> Sent from my LG Mobile
> <20200905_165410_resized.jpg>
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com
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From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Sun Sep  6 10:00:06 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2020 12:00:06 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] 20 years ago...
References: <ne3kmbhd38qidevfdgu6rg8i.1599407208183.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <ne3kmbhd38qidevfdgu6rg8i.1599407208183@email.lge.com>


    
    My bad!? LOL!? 30 years....*sigh*It was a long day....?I have today & tomorrow to retrieve what I can at my ex wife's house including a 58 bugeye shell.? ?( the house is sold with closing on Tuesday)Chuck





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From raspruck at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 07:34:06 2020
From: raspruck at gmail.com (Bob Spruck)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 09:34:06 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness
In-Reply-To: <D651FD6B-4AC2-4496-AB2D-B8CD03456BE4@chartermi.net>
References: <CAEAAx7_LcK9L1BqDP5sWA0TKzVFfQfjqPZp-deKam9BBOwxtag@mail.gmail.com>
 <D651FD6B-4AC2-4496-AB2D-B8CD03456BE4@chartermi.net>
Message-ID: <0ed107a1-8abb-e84c-5a92-1071fc06f2cd@gmail.com>

Take an appropriate washer, cut one in half and braze, weld, or JB weld 
the half to a whole one and you have a stepped washer! Make a few spares 
just in case.

Bob

On 9/5/2020 6:04 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote:
> Since all 5 ports are right in a row only one gasket is used. ?Even if 
> separate gaskets were used everything would have to be the same 
> thickness because on 4 of the studs the nuts and washers are shared 
> between two ports.
>
> Sent from my keyboard
>
>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 5:43 PM, derf <derf247 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I sit corrected.? It's been a while since I had a manifold off.? 
>> Seems like my?Titan single HIF6 intake had a separate gasked, though.
>>
>> On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:39 PM Weslake1330 <weslake1330 at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:weslake1330 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     On the A-series it should be a single gasket that seals both the
>>     inlet and the exhaust ports at the head.
>>
>>     On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 22:37, derf <derf247 at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:derf247 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>         I would carefully grind washers. Even if both flanges are the
>>         correct thickness you will most likely have gaskets of
>>         differing?thicknesses.
>>
>>         On Sat, Sep 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets
>>         <spridgets at autox.team.net <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>>
>>         wrote:
>>
>>             I would contact Maniflow and ask them what the correct
>>             thickness is to establish if the exhaust is incorrect or
>>             if the inlet manifold is correct and then invite them to
>>             send a replacement part.? I'd also want to be sure that
>>             something that is claimed to be made by Maniflow really is.
>>
>>             Regards
>>
>>             Daniel S
>>
>>             On Sat, 5 Sep 2020 at 20:12, Rick Fisk via Spridgets
>>             <spridgets at autox.team.net
>>             <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>                 Send it all back to Maniflow and tell them to get
>>                 their shxt together.? No excuse for this kind of BS.?
>>                 They make both parts and they don't match?? Ridiculous.
>>
>>                 Have you contacted them?
>>
>>                 Rick
>>
>>                 Sent from my keyboard
>>
>>>                 On Sep 5, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Michael MacLean via
>>>                 Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>                 <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>>                 ?
>>>                 Have the exhaust faces machined down 35 thou.? Being
>>>                 both Maniflo they should have matched thicknan.? I
>>>                 have the LCB header (I don't know who makes it) on
>>>                 my 1275 and a Titan intake manifold for my single
>>>                 HIF44 carb.? They match perfectly. Supposed to be a
>>>                 standard thickness for the flanges.
>>>                 Mike MacLean
>>>
>>>                 On Saturday, September 5, 2020, 11:22:59 AM PDT, Hal
>>>                 Faulkner via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>                 <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>                 Listerati,
>>>                 Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress
>>>                 in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960
>>>                 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some
>>>                 porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have
>>>                 replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold?with a
>>>                 Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by
>>>                 Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the
>>>                 car.? The concern I have is that the flange is
>>>                 thicker on the exhaust than on the intake. Torquing
>>>                 the manifolds until the exhaust just touches the
>>>                 block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the
>>>                 intake manifold with about 35 thousands play.? Of
>>>                 course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that
>>>                 leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common
>>>                 studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if
>>>                 nothing else, doesn't look very cool.? The attached
>>>                 photo shows about .035" of feeler between the
>>>                 washero and the intake manifold flange.? The exhaust
>>>                 manifold is snug.
>>>
>>>                 What would you do?
>>>
>>>                 ------------------------
>>>
>>>                 spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>                 <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>>                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>                 Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>>                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>>                 http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>                 Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>                 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>>>                 ------------------------
>>>
>>>                 spridgets at autox.team.net
>>>                 <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>>                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>                 Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>>                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>>                 http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>                 Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>                 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
>>                 ------------------------
>>
>>                 spridgets at autox.team.net
>>                 <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>
>>
>>                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>                 Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>>                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>                 http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>                 Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>                 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com
>>
>>             ------------------------
>>
>>             spridgets at autox.team.net <mailto:spridgets at autox.team.net>
>>
>>             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>             Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>>             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>             http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>>
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/raspruck at gmail.com
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From robert.a.weeks at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 11:57:30 2020
From: robert.a.weeks at gmail.com (Robert Weeks)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 13:57:30 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
Message-ID: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

I was finally able to track down a decent set of seat frames for the Midget
that my son has been working on. The old ones were rusted through.

After we sandblast these, what is the best way to attempt to rust proof
them? Since the backs of the frames set basically against the floor or
carpeting, they are very prone to rust through. I know that nothing will
totally stop rust, but what are the best products to help these last for as
long as possible? I remember POR 15 from back when I was working on cars,
but that had mixed reviews. I see Eastwood now has a bunch of different
rust encapsulating and coating products and I guess there is
powdercoating but my wife might not like me suing our oven for that.

In any event, what are people using nowadays for this? Is there any product
or solution that is clearly better than the others?

Thanks,

Robert
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From stargazer1 at cox.net  Thu Sep 10 14:26:10 2020
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 13:26:10 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
In-Reply-To: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <10682844-07d6-e146-bfa3-1904ee300aed@cox.net>

I would get some good, oil-based or lacquer primer on them as soon as 
you get them sandblasted. Follow that up with a couple coats of a good 
oil-based enamel, and you should be good for a good long time.

On 9/10/2020 10:57 AM, Robert Weeks via Spridgets wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I was finally able to track down a decent set of seat frames for the 
> Midget that my son has been working on. The old ones were rusted through.
>
> After we sandblast these, what is the best way to attempt to rust 
> proof them? Since the backs of the frames set basically against the 
> floor or carpeting, they are very prone to rust through. I know that 
> nothing will totally stop rust, but what are the best products to?help 
> these last for as long as possible? I remember POR 15 from back when I 
> was working on cars, but that had mixed reviews. I see Eastwood now 
> has a bunch of different rust encapsulating and coating products and I 
> guess there is powdercoating?but my wife might not like me suing our 
> oven for that.
>
> In any event, what are people using nowadays for this? Is there any 
> product or solution that is clearly better than the others?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/stargazer1 at cox.net
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Sep 10 14:37:16 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 14:37:16 -0600
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
In-Reply-To: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b10d9a1a-ce68-c88f-8b5c-2cffc12f44f8@bradakis.com>

Back in the day when I was actively doing car stuff, PPG had an epoxy 
based, I think, primer called DP40.? Actually, DP?? for various 
different colors, I think at one point point I had the blue, gray, light 
yellow and rust red colors on hand.? It was great stuff, expensive, 
professional grade, but most likely overkill for a couple of seat 
frames.? Your best bet might be Rustoleum rattle cans.

mjb.



From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Thu Sep 10 14:47:05 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 16:47:05 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
References: <d3fhh8qrde988ggana3tioc7.1599770602021.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <d3fhh8qrde988ggana3tioc7.1599770602021@email.lge.com>

I hate to go on record saying this.? ?If you get the frames blasted , first rattle can primer , follow that with a good brushed on cost of Rustoleum semi flat black.? Let them sun dry ( bake) and do not look back from there!They are seat frames , not to be seen once covered by upholstery.? ?Rustoleum will preserve the metal nicely at a reasonable price.ChuckSent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: Robert Weeks via SpridgetsDate: Thu, Sep 10, 2020 1:58 PMTo: Spridgets List;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metalHi All,I was finally able to track down a decent set of seat frames for the Midget that my son has been working on. The old ones were rusted through. After we sandblast these, what is the best way to attempt to rust proof them? Since the backs of the frames set basically against the floor or carpeting, they are very prone to rust through. I know that nothing will totally stop rust, but what are the best products to?help these last for as long as possible? I remember POR 15 from back when I was working on cars, but that had mixed reviews. I see Eastwood now has a bunch of different rust encapsulating and coating products and I guess there is powdercoating?but my wife might not like me suing our oven for that.In any event, what are people using nowadays for this? Is there any product or solution that is clearly better than the others?Thanks,Robert
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From robert.a.weeks at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 09:17:30 2020
From: robert.a.weeks at gmail.com (Robert Weeks)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 11:17:30 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
In-Reply-To: <b10d9a1a-ce68-c88f-8b5c-2cffc12f44f8@bradakis.com>
References: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <b10d9a1a-ce68-c88f-8b5c-2cffc12f44f8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CALFC2Z9PmpvVsxWuKUeZPAkZpfV07ioaAc-boLy8FNGfMr=dag@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks David and Mark,

I think I'm going to go with a 2k epoxy primer from Eastwood. It doesn't
cost much more than rustoleum and should protect better. I can do the
sandblasting and spraying here.

Surprisingly, seat frames have become pretty hard to track down. It took me
a few months to find these and they weren't cheap. My main concern is to
make sure they last, since in another 5 - 10 years they will be even harder
to find if these rust out. I remember back when I was doing this 20 years
ago, I could find complete parts cars for under $100 around here. I had 4
in my backyard at one point. Now people want $1000 for a stripped, rusted
out rolling chassis. I wish I still had some of those parts cars. There
were probably some good seat frames in there ;-)

Thanks again,

Robert



On Thu, Sep 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Mark J Bradakis via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Back in the day when I was actively doing car stuff, PPG had an epoxy
> based, I think, primer called DP40.  Actually, DP?? for various
> different colors, I think at one point point I had the blue, gray, light
> yellow and rust red colors on hand.  It was great stuff, expensive,
> professional grade, but most likely overkill for a couple of seat
> frames.  Your best bet might be Rustoleum rattle cans.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/robert.a.weeks at gmail.com
>
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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 10:17:47 2020
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 11:17:47 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] Rustproofing sandblasted metal
In-Reply-To: <b10d9a1a-ce68-c88f-8b5c-2cffc12f44f8@bradakis.com>
References: <CALFC2Z8x9i4oYb38KNj0YpTEU3VrcgBznfgC3KPn6n-rfatQdQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <b10d9a1a-ce68-c88f-8b5c-2cffc12f44f8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjoX7z8jck1pKEdiPzHuZhoZ5wzeMcvgZA2Qsq93e7VWRA@mail.gmail.com>

You can also get etch primer in a spray can from auto parts stores that
sell paint.
Fastenal used to sell a zinc based primer.

Top coat with with a good enamel in preferred gloss level as others have
mentioned.

Neil Anderson

On Thu, Sep 10, 2020, 3:37 PM Mark J Bradakis via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Back in the day when I was actively doing car stuff, PPG had an epoxy
> based, I think, primer called DP40.  Actually, DP?? for various
> different colors, I think at one point point I had the blue, gray, light
> yellow and rust red colors on hand.  It was great stuff, expensive,
> professional grade, but most likely overkill for a couple of seat
> frames.  Your best bet might be Rustoleum rattle cans.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/neilandcustom at gmail.com
>
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From bugeye15 at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 18 07:52:14 2020
From: bugeye15 at hotmail.com (brian S)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2020 13:52:14 +0000
Subject: [Spridgets] Springs?
In-Reply-To: <1083451439.20200826114950@comcast.net>
References: <1083451439.20200826114950@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BN6PR06MB31219632FEB536BECA1F1422C23F0@BN6PR06MB3121.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

Bill,
Just to check,

When it was re-assembled after being rebuilt,
The bolts weren't tightened until after the car had full weight on the ground?
If they were tightened without weight on them, the car won't settle properly after.
If it was, I agree with others,
try swapping the front springs side to side,
It the height changes, it's the front springs.
If not, it's the rear springs.
GL!

Brian S.
Bugeyeracer resto'ed Thanks to Frank C.!

________________________________
From: Spridgets <spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bill L. via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 2:49 PM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] Springs?

Hello Spridgets,

  Soooo... I had the front end rebuilt last year. The car (Sprite MK
  III) sits too high in the front, visually. The bottom of the fender
  is about 2 3/4" above the top of the tire on the left (driver) side
  and 3 1/4" above the tire on the right side. ...

  I see the the workshop manual that there were actually 3 different
  length springs from Bugeye to Mk IV with a total difference of about
  1/2", tho the load rating never changes. I only see two different
  springs offered for sale.

  So, a few  questions.

  A) how far above the tire should the bottom of the fender be? Could
  someone (multiple people) measure and report?

  B) Should I just lower the spring pan 1/2" on one side to get the
  car to sit level? Is there a downside to this (It IS a cure for
  "bachelor lean" and I had it like that before the front end rebuild)

  C) Has anyone had custom springs made, and if so where and does the
  company have records to get another set made up?

  D)If I get a set made up, should I then go ahead and have different
  lengths made to make the car sit even? or go with the spring pan
  lowering?

  E) Does taking a set amount (say 1") from the length of the spring
  lower the by exactly that amount, or is there some other effect
  going on to make it some multiple or a fraction of the 1"?


  I know there are some racers out there who have lowered the front
  end much more than stock. What's the method .. Spring pan? Spring
  set? or something else?





--
Best regards,
 Bill                          mailto:Zormecteon at comcast.net


The worst thing about censorship is __________.

------------------------

spridgets at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation: $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/bugeye15 at hotmail.com
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From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 13:30:33 2020
From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan Kubanoff)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 15:30:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help
Message-ID: <1486268326.37485.1600803034220@connect.xfinity.com>

ok looking for a place to start when trying to sort this out.
1960 bugeye, i have no gauge lights or horn. turn signals work on dash, gauges work, car runs without a problem. Any tips for a starting point?
Ryan
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From daredelvis at gmail.com  Tue Sep 22 13:54:45 2020
From: daredelvis at gmail.com (brian)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 12:54:45 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help
In-Reply-To: <1486268326.37485.1600803034220@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1486268326.37485.1600803034220@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CALKVWq-bggxdxiyWGN77N8mjT0G4jtHnSWOgdVcUVc2D8rQn+Q@mail.gmail.com>

There is a switch under the dash for the gauge lights.  The horn might be
unrelated.


On Tue, Sep 22, 2020 at 12:30 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> ok looking for a place to start when trying to sort this out.
> 1960 bugeye, i have no gauge lights or horn. turn signals work on dash,
> gauges work, car runs without a problem. Any tips for a starting point?
> Ryan
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/daredelvis at gmail.com
>


-- 
"I don't take responsibility at all." -45th President of the United States,
Donald J. Trump
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From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com  Tue Sep 22 14:25:14 2020
From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 16:25:14 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help
References: <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567.ref@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567@email.lge.com>

Horn:First see if it has power to the horn at the horn.Spridgets ground the horn to make it "beep" through a ground in the steering rack to rack mounts.? Factory shimmed the rack with what looks like thin card stock or gasket material.? Frequently the horn circut looses its ground at the rack mounts.? ?Simple try this thing.? ?Alligator clamp test lead from a rack mount ( to frame!) Bolt to the pinch bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack's pinion.? That should create an artificial ground of the rack mounts are at fault.? Another test is if you have power at the horn , use your jumper to ground the other terminal at the horn.? ?If power is present and you ground the other terminal and nothing happens , it's the horn.If the horn makes some sounds unlike a horn , try adjusting the horn , it could be dirty contacts in the horn.? ?Ya might get lucky.Those tests will narrow it down to power to horn or the grounding between the horn and the rack.Dash lights?? ?The tiny almost hidden invisible slide switch under the edge of the dash is the "yes-no" dash light switch.? Dash lights are all a red wire with a white tracer .? ?The obvious question is , have you cleaned the fuse holder and ends of the 2 fuses and are the fuses viable?? ?Do NOT trust a fuse that "looks good"!? ?The ribbon inside can come loose from the metal end cap!? ?Do not ask!!!!!? Check your "good" fuses with a volt-ohm meter simply for continuity.??Let us know where you find any interesting gremlins!??ChuckBeen there...broke that....fixed it...broke it again and.....fixed it AGAIN!Sent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: Ryan Kubanoff via SpridgetsDate: Tue, Sep 22, 2020 3:31 PMTo: spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] electrical starting point help
  
   ok looking for a place to start when trying to sort this out.
   
  
  
   1960 bugeye, i have no gauge lights or horn. turn signals work on dash, gauges work, car runs without a problem. Any tips for a starting point?
  
  
   Ryan
   
 
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From billyzoom at billyzoom.com  Tue Sep 22 14:32:04 2020
From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 13:32:04 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help
In-Reply-To: <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567@email.lge.com>
References: <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567.ref@email.lge.com>
 <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567@email.lge.com>
Message-ID: <60C77E8F-7CF9-4986-B8FD-D1871A3CB6A3@billyzoom.com>

Use your volt meter to check voltage at both ends of the fuse. That?s better than connecting your ohm meter to the fuse that?s always live.

From rich_ball at mindspring.com  Tue Sep 29 19:12:49 2020
From: rich_ball at mindspring.com (Richard Ball)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 18:12:49 -0700
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist type
 out there
Message-ID: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>

So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car
has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that
put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and
bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.

 

The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch
aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they
seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to
deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m
just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed
steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it
doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.

 

Thoughts?

 

Rich Ball

?76 Midget

Everett, WA

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From refisk at chartermi.net  Tue Sep 29 19:29:52 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 21:29:52 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
References: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <E737AF71-17CC-40C9-B2E8-C53795DB9B96@chartermi.net>

I made one out of 1/8" steel plate.  Even 1/8" aluminum would be fine as there is nothing to cause it to deform or cup or warp as it's just a hole cover.  :-)

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On Sep 29, 2020, at 9:13 PM, Richard Ball via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.
>  
> The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.
>  
> Thoughts?
>  
> Rich Ball
> ?76 Midget
> Everett, WA
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 19:30:32 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 20:30:32 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
References: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YA9r0ZQfkjs9hD20sPkBFZgCYyQXcuCFFbQFm5P87AGAg@mail.gmail.com>

You will have no issues using 1/4" aluminum plate.  I find for applications
like this the thicker stock works fine.  This application will not be under
load and 1/4" aluminum is really quite strong.  One upgrade you might want
to make while you are at it, this is a great place to add some extra PCV.
I have seen several folks add a port to the fuel pump block off plate on
the 1500 and use it as an oil return for an upgraded PCV system.  NIcer
than having to periodically empty a catch can.  Just make sure you don't
use any of that steel-wool looking stuff in the separator.  That stuff
comes apart and eats the oil pump.

On Tue, Sep 29, 2020 at 8:13 PM Richard Ball via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car
> has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that
> put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and
> bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.
>
>
>
> The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch
> aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they
> seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to
> deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m
> just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed
> steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it
> doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Rich Ball
>
> ?76 Midget
>
> Everett, WA
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/jdinnis at gmail.com
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From derf247 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 19:38:35 2020
From: derf247 at gmail.com (derf)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 20:38:35 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
References: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <CAEAAx79XPNDi6XBWZ15EFNBGT7FsAKJAYujn9rFEcU6HXVeBhg@mail.gmail.com>

1/4 is fine.  Just tighten the bolts enough to seal, don't overtighten.

On Tue, Sep 29, 2020, 20:13 Richard Ball via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car
> has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that
> put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and
> bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.
>
>
>
> The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch
> aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they
> seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to
> deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m
> just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed
> steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it
> doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.
>
>
>
> Thoughts?
>
>
>
> Rich Ball
>
> ?76 Midget
>
> Everett, WA
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com
>
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From lbcs at embarqmail.com  Tue Sep 29 19:44:29 2020
From: lbcs at embarqmail.com (Bill Miller - LBCs)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 21:44:29 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
References: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <001501d696cb$3d19d940$b74d8bc0$@embarqmail.com>

Ooohhh  I made a bunch of these plasma cut from 3/16? plate steel several
years ago for my spitfire friends J  Back when I had access to a plasma
table.

Let me go check in the garage tomorrow evening and if I still have some
left,  I will send you one free
  

I can tell you the 3/16? steel will not warp and leak from experience.

 

-Bill

 

From: Spridgets [mailto:spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Ball via Spridgets
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 9:13 PM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist type
out there

 

So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car
has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that
put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and
bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.

 

The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch
aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they
seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to
deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m
just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed
steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it
doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.

 

Thoughts?

 

Rich Ball

?76 Midget

Everett, WA

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From soavero at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 30 05:25:34 2020
From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 06:25:34 -0500
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
References: <004401d696c6$d0764070$7162c150$@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <D2DBE04A-C4AF-49C4-A6AD-6C3FCE5BEDD0@yahoo.com>

Thinner steel is an option. Weld on a vent as mentioned earlier (pic below). 

Ron Soave

> On Sep 29, 2020, at 8:13 PM, Richard Ball via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.
>  
> The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.
>  
> Thoughts?
>  
> Rich Ball
> ?76 Midget
> Everett, WA
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com
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From refisk at chartermi.net  Wed Sep 30 08:25:53 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 10:25:53 -0400
Subject: [Spridgets] An aluminum question for the engineering/machinist
 type out there
In-Reply-To: <D2DBE04A-C4AF-49C4-A6AD-6C3FCE5BEDD0@yahoo.com>
References: <D2DBE04A-C4AF-49C4-A6AD-6C3FCE5BEDD0@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <51B9439D-F366-479E-836C-2A58EF99F51C@chartermi.net>

I drilled a hole in my steel cover, tapped it for 3/8" NPT pipe threads, and screwed a brass barbed fitting in it for a vent hose.  



Sent from my keyboard

> On Sep 30, 2020, at 7:26 AM, Ron Soave via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Thinner steel is an option. Weld on a vent as mentioned earlier (pic below). 
> 
> Ron Soave
> <image0.jpeg>
> 
>>> On Sep 29, 2020, at 8:13 PM, Richard Ball via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> So I want to make myself a fuel pump block off plate for my 1500.  The car has had an electric pump on it since before I got the car but the shop that put it on for the owner at the time simply gutted the mechanical pump and bolted it back in place to cover the hole.  Time to clean it up.
>>  
>> The question is this.  I was original thinking of making one out of ? inch aluminum but looking at a variety of aluminum block off plates online they seem to generally be made from thicker stock.  Would ? inch tend to deform/cup/warp over time and leak? I?m fine with using thicker stock, I?m just wondering if it?s necessary.  I know that some people use the chromed steel fuel pump block off plate for the big block Chevy on the 1500, but it doesn?t fit the opening correctly and just doesn?t look right to me.
>>  
>> Thoughts?
>>  
>> Rich Ball
>> ?76 Midget
>> Everett, WA
>> ------------------------
>> 
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net
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