From stargazer1 at cox.net Thu Jul 1 12:19:03 2021 From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 11:19:03 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Does this look right? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <503fb81a-4a68-0a81-5872-f7c3e93a482a@cox.net> We've got one of those long grease fittings on my son's Midget. Doesn't induce any untoward vibration, and you can get a grease gun in there to grease the U-joint. On 6/30/2021 7:31 AM, Ryan via Spridgets wrote: > Had I joints replaced at machine shop and it can back like this??? On a 74 midget the other one is tiny > > > Sent from my iPhone > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/stargazer1 at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Thu Jul 1 12:41:16 2021 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 11:41:16 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Does this look right? In-Reply-To: <503fb81a-4a68-0a81-5872-f7c3e93a482a@cox.net> References: <503fb81a-4a68-0a81-5872-f7c3e93a482a@cox.net> Message-ID: It makes it easier to grease the front one through that little hole. From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Thu Jul 1 15:12:30 2021 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 21:12:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] An early ignition "thing"? References: <1511237388.755604.1625173951909.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1511237388.755604.1625173951909@mail.yahoo.com> I believe this was some kind of early C.D. ignition unit.? It came off a 63 Saab and I would love to see if it works...or not?ARC electronic ignition system.From what I was told , this is the only component...no special pieces for inside the distributor.? ?That said I .... think it's complete?Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210701_170749.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2947226 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210701_170730_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2039550 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jul 4 10:09:03 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 12:09:03 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Nascar at Road America. Message-ID: <621BFB06-1C63-46BC-8E2F-2B3ED79FAD18@chartermi.net> I Vintage race a Bugeye and love it. I have another Bugeye that I have owned for 53 years and have owned a whole bunch of other Brit cars. But I also enjoy watching Nascar and even have a few laps at California Speedway in an old Grand National car under my belt. Today the Nascar Cup guys are running at Road America. They just announced on the broadcast that the spectator count for today's race is the largest ever in the history of the track. Largest ever! :-) Rick From soavero at yahoo.com Sun Jul 4 12:43:02 2021 From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 13:43:02 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Nascar at Road America. In-Reply-To: <621BFB06-1C63-46BC-8E2F-2B3ED79FAD18@chartermi.net> References: <621BFB06-1C63-46BC-8E2F-2B3ED79FAD18@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <5F7CCF01-4D3E-4B01-BA6B-4E1BF39AFE4F@yahoo.com> I wouldn?t know, as I am vintage racing my Spridget today :). All sessions completed(!!), feature race to go. Ron Soave > On Jul 4, 2021, at 11:09 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: > > ?I Vintage race a Bugeye and love it. I have another Bugeye that I have owned for 53 years and have owned a whole bunch of other Brit cars. But I also enjoy watching Nascar and even have a few laps at California Speedway in an old Grand National car under my belt. > > Today the Nascar Cup guys are running at Road America. They just announced on the broadcast that the spectator count for today's race is the largest ever in the history of the track. Largest ever! :-) > > Rick > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Sun Jul 4 13:22:11 2021 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 12:22:11 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Nascar at Road America. In-Reply-To: <5F7CCF01-4D3E-4B01-BA6B-4E1BF39AFE4F@yahoo.com> References: <621BFB06-1C63-46BC-8E2F-2B3ED79FAD18@chartermi.net> <5F7CCF01-4D3E-4B01-BA6B-4E1BF39AFE4F@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Doesn?t Road America have some of those treacherous right hand turns? From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jul 4 13:43:24 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 15:43:24 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Nascar at Road America. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 8 right handers and 6 left handers. At 4 miles in length it's not really a Sprite track. I take a magazine to read on the front straight. > On Jul 4, 2021, at 3:22 PM, Billy Zoom wrote: > > ?Doesn?t Road America have some of those treacherous right hand turns? From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Sun Jul 4 17:37:48 2021 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2021 23:37:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Today! References: <28940268.1515554.1625441868492.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <28940268.1515554.1625441868492@mail.yahoo.com> Happy 4th of July to all!Hope everyone had had a good holiday and it ends well ( with a BANG!).Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emailme at greggowins.com Mon Jul 5 08:29:34 2021 From: emailme at greggowins.com (Greg Gowins) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 14:29:34 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Nascar at Road America. In-Reply-To: References: <621BFB06-1C63-46BC-8E2F-2B3ED79FAD18@chartermi.net> <5F7CCF01-4D3E-4B01-BA6B-4E1BF39AFE4F@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0100017a77130bf1-0142de02-186f-432b-a8af-1e722bc36ba9-000000@email.amazonses.com> They also raced earlier in the year at the F1 Circuit of the Americas track, where in addition to right hand turns, they also had to run in the rain! I didn?t realize those cars even had a wiper motor. On Sun, Jul 4, 2021 at 2:22 PM Billy Zoom via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Doesn?t Road America have some of those treacherous right hand turns? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Mon Jul 5 11:45:01 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 17:45:01 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch Message-ID: I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jul 5 13:35:47 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 15:35:47 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <991554A8-94EF-42CF-983B-0D1CDB4F78FF@chartermi.net> Hi Phil, Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. Rick > On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. > > Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. > > Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. > > I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? > > Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. > > Open to any and all input! > > Thanks, Phil > > Thanks, Phil > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26889 bytes Desc: not available URL: From psarikas at msn.com Mon Jul 5 20:56:26 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 02:56:26 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: <991554A8-94EF-42CF-983B-0D1CDB4F78FF@chartermi.net> References: , <991554A8-94EF-42CF-983B-0D1CDB4F78FF@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Oh my. I think so, but now that you ask, I will have to check. I can, pry open the inspection port and put a small camera in there this week to confirm. I will start that Tuesday night Thanks, Phil On Jul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Hi Phil, Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. Rick On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: ? I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26889 bytes Desc: image0.jpeg URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Wed Jul 7 16:43:19 2021 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 22:43:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Economy car cover for rollbars References: <80413417.2645075.1625697799939.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <80413417.2645075.1625697799939@mail.yahoo.com> Alrighty!It does keep the interior dry!? ? Flip it over and it's a pool!? ?It's an economy car cover....ChuckYeah...i did this! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20210707_154449_HDR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2764972 bytes Desc: not available URL: From grday at btinternet.com Wed Jul 7 16:54:56 2021 From: grday at btinternet.com (GUY DAY) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 23:54:56 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Spridgets] Economy car cover for rollbars In-Reply-To: <80413417.2645075.1625697799939@mail.yahoo.com> References: <80413417.2645075.1625697799939.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <80413417.2645075.1625697799939@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3f2897ff.55b7.17a832e6f25.Webtop.89@btinternet.com> Get a larger one, it'll keep the fenders dry .... I'll get my coat, Guy R Day ------ Original Message ------ From: "crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets" To: "Spridgets Net" ; "Eastern OSHIT Group" Sent: Wednesday, 7 Jul, 21 At 23:43 Subject: [Spridgets] Economy car cover for rollbars Alrighty! It does keep the interior dry! Flip it over and it's a pool! It's an economy car cover.... Chuck Yeah...i did this! ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sat Jul 10 21:07:55 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 03:07:55 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: , <02a701d771e8$66ac53c0$3404fb40$@austin.rr.com>, Message-ID: Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end. Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it? Thanks, Phil On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. Thanks, Phil On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: ? When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm? Jim From: Spridgets On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM To: spridgets at autox.team.net Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sat Jul 10 21:21:48 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 23:21:48 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Phil, 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275. Rick > On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end. > > Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing > > Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it? > > Thanks, Phil > >> On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: >> ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. >> >> Thanks, Phil >> >>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm? >>> Jim >>> >>> From: Spridgets On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets >>> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM >>> To: spridgets at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch >>> >>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. >>> >>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. >>> >>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. >>> >>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? >>> >>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. >>> >>> Open to any and all input! >>> >>> Thanks, Phil >>> >>> Thanks, Phil > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Video.MOV Type: video/quicktime Size: 905462 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sat Jul 10 21:57:57 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 03:57:57 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Yes, I saw that, I took a video of the inside, as far as I can tell, the throw out bearing is the same as what I took out, does anything look amiss in this? I am ready to pull it and replace the driven plate as needed? Is it possible to put the clutch plate in backwards and have an issue like this? Thanks, Phil On Jul 10, 2021, at 8:21 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Hi Phil, 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275. Rick On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: ? Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end. Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it? Thanks, Phil On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. Thanks, Phil On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: ? When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm? Jim From: Spridgets On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM To: spridgets at autox.team.net Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Video.mov Type: video/quicktime Size: 1320540 bytes Desc: Video.mov URL: From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Sat Jul 10 22:21:53 2021 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 21:21:53 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9E543C85-FD4B-4E7D-A416-72FCA478399A@billyzoom.com> For some reason, a lot of people seem to put the clutch plates in backwards, the first time. From psarikas at msn.com Sat Jul 10 22:33:47 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 04:33:47 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: <9E543C85-FD4B-4E7D-A416-72FCA478399A@billyzoom.com> References: , <9E543C85-FD4B-4E7D-A416-72FCA478399A@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: Bummer. Well looks like it?s time to pull the engine, I guess. Doubting I can get it out and back in a day but I will get it out! Thanks, Phil > On Jul 10, 2021, at 9:21 PM, Billy Zoom wrote: > > ?For some reason, a lot of people seem to put the clutch plates in backwards, the first time. > From soavero at yahoo.com Sun Jul 11 07:15:23 2021 From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 08:15:23 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I made a ?gauge? a few years ago after the late great Paul A and I talked about this. .172? was the magic number. Ron Soave > On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:24 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil, > > 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275. > > Rick > > > > >>> On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end. >> >> Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing >> >> Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it? >> >> Thanks, Phil >> >>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: >>> ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. >>> >>> Thanks, Phil >>> >>>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: >>>> >>>> ? >>>> When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm? >>>> Jim >>>> >>>> From: Spridgets On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets >>>> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM >>>> To: spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch >>>> >>>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. >>>> >>>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. >>>> >>>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. >>>> >>>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? >>>> >>>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. >>>> >>>> Open to any and all input! >>>> >>>> Thanks, Phil >>>> >>>> Thanks, Phil >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 72spridget at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 08:34:23 2021 From: 72spridget at gmail.com (David Lieb) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 09:34:23 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 0.172"??? Seems rather tiny... On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 08:17 Ron Soave via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > I made a ?gauge? a few years ago after the late great Paul A and I talked > about this. .172? was the magic number. > > Ron Soave > > On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:24 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil, > > 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made > a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275. > > Rick > > > > > On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed > catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the > classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a > proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the > slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. > Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and > 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure > displacement at each end. > > Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out > bearing > > Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the > smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share > how they did it? > > Thanks, Phil > > On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: > > ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at > this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement > or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did > reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put > the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. > > Thanks, Phil > > On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: > > ? > > When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues > the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release > bearing arm? > > Jim > > > > *From:* Spridgets * On Behalf Of *Phil > Sarikas via Spridgets > *Sent:* Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM > *To:* spridgets at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch > > > > I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. > The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage > transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been > replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. > > > > Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce > the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the > transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the > clutch hydraulic system. > > > > Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly > not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to > pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only > get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and > restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely > as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was > better, but no real change. > > > > I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of > pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the > master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master > cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to > open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that > some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the > 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the > hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier > cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter > to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe > (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave > cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the > shelf? > > > > Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than > perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I > am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not > enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. > > > > Open to any and all input! > > > > Thanks, Phil > > > > Thanks, Phil > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/72spridget at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jul 11 08:58:53 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 10:58:53 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <65F27D5F-8484-4292-A81F-33DBA5F5BAF1@chartermi.net> Phil has more than 0.172" movement at the pressure plate by my eyeball measurement. My guess is Phil is right and the clutch plate is backwards. From soavero at yahoo.com Sun Jul 11 12:04:15 2021 From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 13:04:15 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8A9CE8BF-8B6C-4568-B44C-AAAF19679DF0@yahoo.com> That?s all the throw it needs to ?throw out? when healthy. Tilton clearly recommends no more than .25? throw total. Anymore and you?re just driving the pressure plate over center. Ron Soave > On Jul 11, 2021, at 9:34 AM, David Lieb <72spridget at gmail.com> wrote: > > ? > 0.172"??? > Seems rather tiny... > >> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 08:17 Ron Soave via Spridgets wrote: >> I made a ?gauge? a few years ago after the late great Paul A and I talked about this. .172? was the magic number. >> >> Ron Soave >> >>>> On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:24 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275. >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>> On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: >>>>> >>>> ? >>>> Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end. >>>> >>>> Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing >>>> >>>> Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it? >>>> >>>> Thanks, Phil >>>> >>>>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: >>>>> ? Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. >>>>> >>>>> Thanks, Phil >>>>> >>>>>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> ? >>>>>> When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm? >>>>>> >>>>>> Jim >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> From: Spridgets On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets >>>>>> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM >>>>>> To: spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>> Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. >>>>>> >>>>>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. >>>>>> >>>>>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. >>>>>> >>>>>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? >>>>>> >>>>>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. >>>>>> >>>>>> Open to any and all input! >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks, Phil >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks, Phil >>>>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/72spridget at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sun Jul 11 16:09:36 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 22:09:36 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: <991554A8-94EF-42CF-983B-0D1CDB4F78FF@chartermi.net> References: , <991554A8-94EF-42CF-983B-0D1CDB4F78FF@chartermi.net> Message-ID: So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Hi Phil, Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. Rick On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: ? I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 26889 bytes Desc: image0.jpeg URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jul 11 16:19:42 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 18:19:42 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <857F7E40-3DD4-46EE-977A-9CC16864B250@chartermi.net> Forgot the pictures Phil. :-) Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures. Rick > On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: > > ? So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? > > Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! > > >>> On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >>> >> ? >> Hi Phil, >> >> Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> >>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. >>> >>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. >>> >>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. >>> >>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? >>> >>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. >>> >>> Open to any and all input! >>> >>> Thanks, Phil >>> >>> Thanks, Phil >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 72spridget at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 16:44:01 2021 From: 72spridget at gmail.com (David Lieb) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 17:44:01 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: <857F7E40-3DD4-46EE-977A-9CC16864B250@chartermi.net> References: <857F7E40-3DD4-46EE-977A-9CC16864B250@chartermi.net> Message-ID: The current carbon faced ones are not very good. Ball bearing ones are harder to find but definitely worth it. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sun Jul 11 18:45:13 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 00:45:13 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: <857F7E40-3DD4-46EE-977A-9CC16864B250@chartermi.net> References: , <857F7E40-3DD4-46EE-977A-9CC16864B250@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001] Thanks, Phil On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Forgot the pictures Phil. :-) Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures. Rick On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ? So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Hi Phil, Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. Rick On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: ? I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2527844 bytes Desc: image0.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2289404 bytes Desc: image1.jpeg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2598309 bytes Desc: image2.jpeg URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sun Jul 11 18:48:30 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 00:48:30 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch Message-ID: As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up that habit. Thanks, Phil > On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: > > ?Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001] > > Thanks, Phil > > On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > Forgot the pictures Phil. :-) > > Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures. > > Rick > > On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: > > ? So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? > > Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! > > > On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > Hi Phil, > > Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. > > Rick > > > > > On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > > I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. > > > Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. > > > Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. > > > I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? > > > Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. > > > Open to any and all input! > > > Thanks, Phil > > Thanks, Phil > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > > From froggi60 at gmail.com Sun Jul 11 19:25:43 2021 From: froggi60 at gmail.com (WFO Herb) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 18:25:43 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Geoffrey Healey Monument, Grants Pass, Oregon Message-ID: How many were there for this great event? My son and I were (but we live here). Took a buddy of mine by it today to "show it off". Like many, I had a great time then/there. Still in decent shape, but not new. Any ideas as to how I can put a better finish on it? Thinking a good cleaning with soap, water and brush would be a good start. [image: image.png] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1071459 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jul 11 20:19:15 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 22:19:15 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <36425E80-328B-4F3E-A4C4-AF86AA2047C0@chartermi.net> Sounds like you're doing everything right. The picture shows the correct bearing for a 1275 and the bearing surface on the pressure plate looks OK too. So maybe you just got a bad one throw out bearing. ?? Rick > On Jul 11, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: > > ?As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up that habit. > > Thanks, Phil > >> On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: >> ?Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001] >> Thanks, Phil >> On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >> ? >> Forgot the pictures Phil. :-) >> Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures. >> Rick >> On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: >> ? So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? >> Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! >> On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >> ? >> Hi Phil, >> Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. >> Rick >> >> On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: >> ? >> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. >> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. >> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. >> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? >> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. >> Open to any and all input! >> Thanks, Phil >> Thanks, Phil >> ------------------------ >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >> >> >> From cosmicmag1380 at gmail.com Mon Jul 12 10:29:37 2021 From: cosmicmag1380 at gmail.com (CosmicMag1380) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 12:29:37 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Geoffrey Healey Monument, Grants Pass, Oregon In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tarn-X tarnish remover or citric acid would probably make it better looking. Use a non-abrasive scrub pad. I have used old McDonalds ketchup paks for cleaning the copper bottoms on my cookware. Let it stand for a bit and then scrub! On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 9:27 PM WFO Herb via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > How many were there for this great event? My son and I were (but we live > here). Took a buddy of mine by it today to "show it off". > > Like many, I had a great time then/there. > > Still in decent shape, but not new. Any ideas as to how I can put a > better finish on it? Thinking a good cleaning with soap, water and brush > would be a good start. > > [image: image.png] > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/cosmicmag1380 at gmail.com > -- Kent 1960 Bugeye 1983 Garage full of spridget parts! 2017 Home built shed full of excess spridget parts!!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1071459 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ddoiron at cox.net Mon Jul 12 12:28:44 2021 From: ddoiron at cox.net (David Doiron) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 14:28:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch release bearing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1142236668.437968.1626114525151@myemail.cox.net> The Sprite clutch release bearing was NOT designed for continuous application! Holding the clutch pedal down at a light has NOTHING to do with being lazy. It has everything to do with heat. When the bearing is applied to the clutch cover it starts making heat. If the application is momentary, the heat is slight. When held for extended periods, the bearing disintegrates. At the dealership I must have replaced 50 of them, usually lady drivers. I coached them to put the car in neutral at stoplights, and them leave the clutch alone. They never had to come back. >>>> > On July 11, 2021 at 8:48 PM Phil Sarikas wrote: > > As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up that habit. > > Thanks, Phil >>>> W David Doiron...ex BMC mechanic From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Mon Jul 12 12:48:55 2021 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 11:48:55 -0700 Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch release bearing In-Reply-To: <1142236668.437968.1626114525151@myemail.cox.net> References: <1142236668.437968.1626114525151@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: <7EBE89B4-DB73-46EC-9473-C5676D2E9599@billyzoom.com> Yeah?.but at least holding the pedal in keeps your engines thrust surfaces shiny! From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Mon Jul 12 16:29:30 2021 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 22:29:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch release bearing In-Reply-To: <7EBE89B4-DB73-46EC-9473-C5676D2E9599@billyzoom.com> References: <1142236668.437968.1626114525151@myemail.cox.net> <7EBE89B4-DB73-46EC-9473-C5676D2E9599@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: <632565737.4285527.1626128970627@mail.yahoo.com> Errrr...ummm...is that a Polish polish job?Chuck On Monday, July 12, 2021, 02:56:24 PM EDT, Billy Zoom via Spridgets wrote: Yeah?.but at least holding the pedal in keeps your engines thrust surfaces shiny! ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/crusaderchuck55 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From miniac7 at aol.com Tue Jul 13 04:06:15 2021 From: miniac7 at aol.com (miniac7 (null)) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 06:06:15 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Ping : Jim Johnson References: <93B4FA22-4D57-4467-8E22-8762B5DDAF6F.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <93B4FA22-4D57-4467-8E22-8762B5DDAF6F@aol.com> If any of you have a way of contacting Jim Johnson of Dodge City directly, please let him know that I am looking to get in touch with him. I tried contacting him via an old email address but I?ve not heard back from him. If he could email directly at miniac7 at aol.com, I would appreciate it. Thank you, Howard Collins Sent from my iPhone From stanbmason at aol.com Fri Jul 16 12:45:01 2021 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 18:45:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] SMRS Car Show and Racing at Grattan for the 10th Year Sprite Midget Race Series References: <1610042948.152624.1626461101588.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1610042948.152624.1626461101588@mail.yahoo.com> Howdy Spridgeteers! Lots for great things shaping up for our special weekend of racing,street car show and parade lap on Saturday for Spridgets.? More information coming as it relates to racing soon. I have attached a flyer for the Saturday Spridget Car Show and Parade Lap.? Highlights below without pictures.? Please forward to anyone you think might be interested. SMRS 10thReunion Street Race Spridget Car Show August 14, 2021 rev 7/12/21 We are celebrating our 10th year of the SpriteMidget Race Series (SMRS) at Grattan Raceway??This is going to be a great event for Street and Race Spridgets on andoff Grattan Raceway.? The 2 cars shownbelow will be there, which were purpose built prototype race cars built atAustin Healey?s Cape Work by Donald and Geoff Healey in 1968 and have neverbeen seen in the Mid-West.? | | | The interior of race track or paddock is going to be a tightarea and it will be necessary for all of us to be polite to everyone thatvolunteers their time along with giving the right of way to race cars gettingon and off the race track into their paddock positions. Look for Spridget CarShow signs directing you to Spridget Paddock in the interior of the racetrack.? The gate to cross into the trackopens between race sessions approximately every 30 minutes.? When you are at the gate you need to let themknow you are entering Spridget Car Show and have permission to enter paddock. Grattan Raceway 7201 Lessiter Road, Belding, Michigan 48809 (25 miles North East of Grand Rapids) Registration: When you enter the track from Lessiter Rd you willneed to sign a waiver at Registration Building usually it is $25-35 a day forentrance or you can have a 2 day pass. Track touring on Saturday and Sunday 45 minutes usually for $55 forboth days and $35 for one.? You will needto sign up and pay when you first register.?You will then take your paper work and be technically inspected 9AM orbefore at Tech Barn near main offices in upper paddock and remove any looseitems from your car, which can be left in the Sprite Paddock. Saturday August 14 Agenda: 9AM- 7PM - enjoywalking the paddock and admiring Racing Sprites and Midgets on and off thetrack.??? Noon - 3 PM ?Car Show Street & Race Sprite Midget Car Show inSpridget Paddock area Popular Vote Ballots can be picked up at the registrationtable from Rob Brackett near his Green Bug Eye.?All ballots need to be completed and returned to ballot box before 3PM.? Numbered display cards can be purchased for$5 and should be placed near windshield. Categories will be Street Midget,Street Sprite, Race Sprite, Race Midget and Best of Show.? Please look on display card to identify thecategory that car is registered under. 2:30 PM Parade Lap follow Rob in Green Bug Eye to stage cars atSouth Side of paddock between Turn 4 & 5.?You will have 1.5? touring lapsexiting through pits and into paddock.?Safely stay together in position no passing and return safely makingroom for race cars. Awards ?After Spridget Race awards will be announced at Cape OfGood Hope Portable Pub.? We will end witha toast with God Save The Queen. Races Feature of 5different race groups. (50s ? 70s Production Race Cars, Formula cars, PonyCars, Sports Racers)? PortaPotties andConcession in paddock.? No alcoholicbeverages until last race of day. Please obey all directions and be respectfulof others.? Stan Mason (cell269-228-0096) I am going to be busy racing and organizing and may not be ableto get to my phone regularly.?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Flyer MD SMRS 10th Reunion Street Spridget Car Show August 14 2021.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 532144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Fri Jul 16 12:46:35 2021 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2021 18:46:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Fwd: SMRS Car Show and Racing at Grattan for the 10th Year Sprite Midget Race Series In-Reply-To: <776113439.149690.1626461150206@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1610042948.152624.1626461101588.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1610042948.152624.1626461101588@mail.yahoo.com> <776113439.149690.1626461150206@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1110620185.152282.1626461195231@mail.yahoo.com> Howdy Spridgeteers! Lots for great things shaping up for our special weekend of racing,street car show and parade lap on Saturday for Spridgets.? More information coming as it relates to racing soon. I have attached a flyer for the Saturday Spridget Car Show and Parade Lap.? Highlights below without pictures.? Please forward to anyone you think might be interested. SMRS 10thReunion Street Race Spridget Car Show August 14, 2021 rev 7/12/21 We are celebrating our 10th year of the SpriteMidget Race Series (SMRS) at Grattan Raceway??This is going to be a great event for Street and Race Spridgets on andoff Grattan Raceway.? The 2 cars shownbelow will be there, which were purpose built prototype race cars built atAustin Healey?s Cape Work by Donald and Geoff Healey in 1968 and have neverbeen seen in the Mid-West.? | | | The interior of race track or paddock is going to be a tightarea and it will be necessary for all of us to be polite to everyone thatvolunteers their time along with giving the right of way to race cars gettingon and off the race track into their paddock positions. Look for Spridget CarShow signs directing you to Spridget Paddock in the interior of the racetrack.? The gate to cross into the trackopens between race sessions approximately every 30 minutes.? When you are at the gate you need to let themknow you are entering Spridget Car Show and have permission to enter paddock. Grattan Raceway 7201 Lessiter Road, Belding, Michigan 48809 (25 miles North East of Grand Rapids) Registration: When you enter the track from Lessiter Rd you willneed to sign a waiver at Registration Building usually it is $25-35 a day forentrance or you can have a 2 day pass. Track touring on Saturday and Sunday 45 minutes usually for $55 forboth days and $35 for one.? You will needto sign up and pay when you first register.?You will then take your paper work and be technically inspected 9AM orbefore at Tech Barn near main offices in upper paddock and remove any looseitems from your car, which can be left in the Sprite Paddock. Saturday August 14 Agenda: 9AM- 7PM - enjoywalking the paddock and admiring Racing Sprites and Midgets on and off thetrack.??? Noon - 3 PM ?Car Show Street & Race Sprite Midget Car Show inSpridget Paddock area Popular Vote Ballots can be picked up at the registrationtable from Rob Brackett near his Green Bug Eye.?All ballots need to be completed and returned to ballot box before 3PM.? Numbered display cards can be purchased for$5 and should be placed near windshield. Categories will be Street Midget,Street Sprite, Race Sprite, Race Midget and Best of Show.? Please look on display card to identify thecategory that car is registered under. 2:30 PM Parade Lap follow Rob in Green Bug Eye to stage cars atSouth Side of paddock between Turn 4 & 5.?You will have 1.5? touring lapsexiting through pits and into paddock.?Safely stay together in position no passing and return safely makingroom for race cars. Awards ?After Spridget Race awards will be announced at Cape OfGood Hope Portable Pub.? We will end witha toast with God Save The Queen. Races Feature of 5different race groups. (50s ? 70s Production Race Cars, Formula cars, PonyCars, Sports Racers)? PortaPotties andConcession in paddock.? No alcoholicbeverages until last race of day. Please obey all directions and be respectfulof others.? Stan Mason (cell269-228-0096) I am going to be busy racing and organizing and may not be ableto get to my phone regularly.?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Flyer MD SMRS 10th Reunion Street Spridget Car Show August 14 2021.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 532144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jimndi at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 17 11:16:21 2021 From: jimndi at frontiernet.net (Jim) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 13:16:21 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin References: <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e.ref@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e@frontiernet.net> Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the swivel I backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked with brass hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. Jim Fournier Huguenot NY From tequila.brad at gmail.com Sat Jul 17 11:41:20 2021 From: tequila.brad at gmail.com (Brad Fornal) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 12:41:20 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin In-Reply-To: <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e@frontiernet.net> References: <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e.ref@frontiernet.net> <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: I believe it is threaded in, if I recall the past discussions on this subject correctly. On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 12:22 PM Jim via Spridgets wrote: > Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the swivel I > backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked with brass > hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. > > Jim Fournier Huguenot NY > > > > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/tequila.brad at gmail.com > -- DON JULIO 1942 http://tequilabrad.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimndi at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 17 11:53:01 2021 From: jimndi at frontiernet.net (Jim) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 13:53:01 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin In-Reply-To: References: <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e.ref@frontiernet.net> <765fd2be-7398-501c-908a-8a60fe6e083e@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <54c47c00-f44a-532f-7998-eddfc0253033@frontiernet.net> Thanks Brad ,Not threaded, Just purchased a major suspension kit from Moss and it contains 2 new pins, There is about 3/8 inch of threads at the top of new pins but they are for the retaining 5/16 nut. On 7/17/2021 1:41 PM, Brad Fornal wrote: > I believe it is threaded in, if I recall the past discussions on this > subject correctly. > > On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 12:22 PM Jim via Spridgets > > wrote: > > Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the > swivel I > backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked with > brass > hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. > > Jim Fournier Huguenot NY > > > > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/tequila.brad at gmail.com > > > > > -- > DON JULIO 1942 > > http://tequilabrad.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sat Jul 17 11:57:58 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 13:57:58 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin In-Reply-To: <54c47c00-f44a-532f-7998-eddfc0253033@frontiernet.net> References: <54c47c00-f44a-532f-7998-eddfc0253033@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <6062EFEC-8C26-4B60-B441-A08A13CB3D1B@chartermi.net> You have to get the cotter pin out like I think you have already tried. Back the nut off and hit the nut to drive the tapered pin out. Sometimes they are so rusty they refuse to budge. Heat the kingpin as hot as you can and beat on it some more. Why is it called a "cotter" pin as it's not like any other cotter pin I've ever used? Rick > On Jul 17, 2021, at 1:53 PM, Jim via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > > > Thanks Brad ,Not threaded, Just purchased a major suspension kit from Moss and it contains 2 new pins, There is about 3/8 inch of threads at the top of new pins but they are for the retaining 5/16 nut. > > On 7/17/2021 1:41 PM, Brad Fornal wrote: >> I believe it is threaded in, if I recall the past discussions on this subject correctly. >> >> On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 12:22 PM Jim via Spridgets wrote: >>> Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the swivel I >>> backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked with brass >>> hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. >>> >>> Jim Fournier Huguenot NY >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/tequila.brad at gmail.com >> >> >> -- >> DON JULIO 1942 >> >> http://tequilabrad.com/ > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shelden3 at pldi.net Sat Jul 17 12:28:45 2021 From: shelden3 at pldi.net (Charlie Shelden) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 13:28:45 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin In-Reply-To: <6062EFEC-8C26-4B60-B441-A08A13CB3D1B@chartermi.net> References: <6062EFEC-8C26-4B60-B441-A08A13CB3D1B@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <7B47E30A-DF7A-4B15-9122-B595066827BE@pldi.net> Gotta have a BFH and a Blue Wrench. Charlie Okc,Ok Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 17, 2021, at 12:58 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > You have to get the cotter pin out like I think you have already tried. Back the nut off and hit the nut to drive the tapered pin out. Sometimes they are so rusty they refuse to budge. Heat the kingpin as hot as you can and beat on it some more. > > Why is it called a "cotter" pin as it's not like any other cotter pin I've ever used? > > Rick > >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 1:53 PM, Jim via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> >> >> Thanks Brad ,Not threaded, Just purchased a major suspension kit from Moss and it contains 2 new pins, There is about 3/8 inch of threads at the top of new pins but they are for the retaining 5/16 nut. >> >> On 7/17/2021 1:41 PM, Brad Fornal wrote: >>> I believe it is threaded in, if I recall the past discussions on this subject correctly. >>> >>> On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 12:22 PM Jim via Spridgets wrote: >>>> Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the swivel I >>>> backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked with brass >>>> hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. >>>> >>>> Jim Fournier Huguenot NY >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/tequila.brad at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> -- >>> DON JULIO 1942 >>> >>> http://tequilabrad.com/ >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/shelden3 at pldi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimndi at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 17 12:39:37 2021 From: jimndi at frontiernet.net (Jim) Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 14:39:37 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] fulcrum pin In-Reply-To: <7B47E30A-DF7A-4B15-9122-B595066827BE@pldi.net> References: <6062EFEC-8C26-4B60-B441-A08A13CB3D1B@chartermi.net> <7B47E30A-DF7A-4B15-9122-B595066827BE@pldi.net> Message-ID: <5dda8d0b-2f3e-94b7-7365-adfc74d349a8@frontiernet.net> Thanks guys The answer is heat it and beat it with bfh. Got it out Jim On 7/17/2021 2:28 PM, Charlie Shelden wrote: > Gotta have a BFH and a Blue Wrench. > > > Charlie > Okc,Ok > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 17, 2021, at 12:58 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets >> wrote: >> >> ? >> You have to get the cotter pin out like I think you have already >> tried. ?Back the nut off and hit the nut to drive the tapered pin >> out. ?Sometimes they are so rusty they refuse to budge. ?Heat the >> kingpin as hot as you can and beat on it some more. >> >> Why is it called a "cotter" pin as it's not like any other cotter pin >> I've ever used? >> >> Rick >> >>> On Jul 17, 2021, at 1:53 PM, Jim via Spridgets >>> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> >>> >>> Thanks Brad ,Not threaded, Just purchased a major suspension kit >>> from Moss and it contains 2 new pins, There is about 3/8 inch of >>> threads at the top of new pins but they are for the retaining 5/16 nut. >>> >>> On 7/17/2021 1:41 PM, Brad Fornal wrote: >>>> I believe it is threaded in, if I recall the past discussions on >>>> this subject correctly. >>>> >>>> On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 12:22 PM Jim via Spridgets >>>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Is there a trick to removing the pin from the lower part of the >>>> swivel I >>>> backed off the 5/16 nut and put some heat on the pin, whacked >>>> with brass >>>> hammer. Won't budge. Trying to separate fulcrum from control arm. >>>> >>>> Jim Fournier Huguenot NY >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/tequila.brad at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> DON JULIO 1942 >>>> >>>> http://tequilabrad.com/ >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> ?http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> ?http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/shelden3 at pldi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From psarikas at msn.com Sun Jul 18 21:06:37 2021 From: psarikas at msn.com (Phil Sarikas) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 03:06:37 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch - final update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: First, I would like the thank the group for all of the input, questions, suggestions and advice. it really helped me stay focused and active in summary 1. the movement on the clutch was sufficient to work properly 2. the system was bled every why I knew how (at the time at least) 3. it still did not shift even close to properly at the time I pulled the engine, my leading theory was that the driven plate was backwards, to know, i had to pull the engine, so out it came. Sadly, it was in correctly so I started to look at the clutch fork and then noted that the TO bearing was in the process of disintegrating. I am not one to ride the clutch so I don?t think it was heat. I only replaced the TO bearing because the existing one seemed about 1/2 way worn down but was otherwise good, the car was shifting well but seemed like the thing to do as it was apart and only $20 or so for the part. the driven plate had more than 50% life left, as best as I could judge and I really don?t know what to look at on the pressure plate but it did not show any discoloration from heat or slip so I used it again. It did have some play in the surface that the TO bearing rides against but did not cause me any concern. since it was all apart (again!) I replaced all the wear parts, the TO the driven plate and the pressure plate. took me 2 nights to get it back in and it shifted but still was not exactly what I wanted. A colleague that owns a Lotus that is apparently also impossible to bleed told me he had used a new approach someone hard shared on you tube where they used a long tube from the bleeder valve all the way back to the master cylinder reservoir and cracked the bleeder and slowly, using only 1/2 pumps, pushed fluid all the way back (with lots of stops to add fluid to the tiny reservoir on my clutch) and while I saw exactly 0 bubbles, Thanks, Phil Post Script: I was able to attend the Austin Healey Club of oregon event and have put over 250 miles on it without any issues. On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:48 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ?As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up that habit. Thanks, Phil On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ?Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001] Thanks, Phil On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Forgot the pictures Phil. :-) Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures. Rick On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas wrote: ? So, the engine is out and ?. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving? Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice! On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: ? Hi Phil, Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference. Rick On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets wrote: ? I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. Open to any and all input! Thanks, Phil Thanks, Phil ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From weslake1330 at gmail.com Fri Jul 23 05:27:37 2021 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 12:27:37 +0100 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake question master cylinder question Message-ID: Hi List, I have a brake question master cylinder question. What is the is the full stroke length of all the Spridget brake masters. I haven't found it listed anywhere yet. So, does anyone know? Also, while I'm asking what is the stroke length for the clutch masters? Thanks Daniel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emailme at greggowins.com Fri Jul 23 13:34:05 2021 From: emailme at greggowins.com (Greg Gowins) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:34:05 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Dry ice media blasting Message-ID: <0100017ad4dc4d7d-0fc307c2-e21c-4612-b862-3f60eeb6440e-000000@email.amazonses.com> Hey folks, Hadn't heard about this method before. They show using dry ice as a media for cleaning an old Land Rover engine. Too bad the setup costs so much. https://youtu.be/RXR3a2WSgrM Greg Gowins '69 Sprite Driftwood, TX -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Mon Jul 26 10:31:59 2021 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 16:31:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Grattan SMRS 10 year End Of Seasons Award Car Show Extravaganza August 13-15, 2021 References: <786242741.848880.1627317119970.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <786242741.848880.1627317119970@mail.yahoo.com> Spridgeeetttss. We have lots of fun planned for our 10th year asSprite Midget Race Series.? Specialracing prototypes from Texas visiting along with other Texas Spridgets.? We appreciate their willingness to bringthese special Sprites to the MidWest (the first time that I am aware of) andshare their rare Healey Gems.?? We willalso be having a Spridget Street and Race Car Show on Saturday and an exclusiveSprite & Midget (bring a story board or history of your car to share). ?Street Sprite Midget Parade Lap targeted for2:30PM with the Sprite Midget exclusive race at 5:10PM.? This makes for a busy day and I ask everyone tobe patient and thankful for being able to do this through VSCDA.? We will have our end of season awards onSunday.? I want to dispel the myth thatthe paddock is already full.? In fact atthis point it is just the opposite with minimal overall VSCDA entries.? I want to encourage everyone that has racedwith us to make this a must do as a Spridget Racer.? To ensure we have enough room in ourdesignated Sprite Midget Compound in our traditional Paddock location tosqueeze in as many Spridgets in as possible, I am requesting that we parkenclosed trailers perpendicular to road on the North and South of access road.? I also ask that you park your tow vehicle inanother area so we can maximize the amount of Spridgets in our area.? Crew cars will not be allowed in paddock withexception of street Sprites and Midgets for car show on Saturday.? Street Spridgets will park at the end of ourpaddock near Turn 7 (toilet bowl).? As Iunderstand it you will be provided a special parking pass based on my recommendationsfor racers.? I think we have enough roomfor 25 to 30 Spridgets with trailers in our area if we all do our part (thisgives you 20 foot of road frontage per racer).?If you have not registered please do it soon to get your early bird discounton or before 7/31.? If you have notregistered and plan on attending please email me so I know you are coming andidentify if your trailer is open or closed along with overall length.? It is possible to do this, as an example WaterfordHill Race Course does not allow any trailers in their paddock. Safety ? This isa special event for Spridgets with rare cars that will be racing with us.? It is very important that we are conscious ofbeing careful especially towards these special cars.? We need to all be very observant, keep thered mist out and focus on Vintage Ideals.?The early laps are critical and we need to keep our cool.? Our group has always been good about DriverMeeting Attendance and I am sure this won?t be an exception. Awards ? Pleasesee schedule below for Sprite Midget Race Series Points (I have highlighted inred).? ??We will be announcing the winner of the GaryKropf Spirit Award and our Jim Donato Most Respected Driver Award.? During our award ceremony on Sunday shortlyafter lunch.? I will provide the criteriafor these 2 awards with a ballot that I would like completed by SaturdayEvening.? We will also will be presentingnew awards provided by our Sponsor Dave Kessigner.? Regalia ? DaveKessinger has provided T-Shirts at no cost as a fund raiser for our SMRS .? They are $20 buy one for your crew and yourAunt Nellie.? We also will have some SMRSstickers for $10 also as a fun raiser donated by Cana and Colin Comer.? Jeff Carlos has posters for $10. Lunch ? We willnot have a Spridget Lunch on Friday but will have one on Saturday and Sunday soplease bring enough for you and your crew and friends plus +20% to cover othersthat join us from tech and workers.? Iwill provide plates, utensils and some condiments.? A volunteer to cook on Saturday and or Sundayis greatly appreciated if you have a friend or crew or you have a failed carplease consider helping.? Precooked bratsare appreciated by reducing grease fires and quicker turnaround ongrilling.? I boil my brats in beer withonions, which is my favorite. AGENDA - Highlighted tentative agenda for Sprites and Midgetsas of July 25, 2021 please verify these times we you receive your driver packetas times can change: We are Group C this year at Grattan which means we are the 3rdgoing out each session out of 6 groups. Friday August 13 9:40 AM ? Practice 11:40 AM ? Practice Lunch ? We will not have our joint lunch Friday 2:50 PM ? Qualifying 1 (lap times perSMRS classification with 8 points awarded to lowest time) 5:00 PM - Cape of Good Hope Pub opens with Presentation bySteve and Mike Coleman on their Historic Sprite Prototypes 6:30PM Dinner at Big Top Tent Saturday August 14 9:40 AM ? Qualifying 2nd 11:00 AM Lunch (this is our Group Lunch and has been movedup from our traditional Noon time so we have time to get ready for Sprint Raceat 12:50) 12:50 PM ? Sprint Race (SMRS Durabilitypoints must remain out for length of race to receive 8 points) 2:30 PM ? Street Sprite Touring Laps 4:00 PM ? Awards of Car Show at Cape of Good Hope 5:10 PM ? 10 year Exclusive SpriteMidget Race (SMRS finish position per class 8 points for 1st inclass) 6:00 PM ? Cape Of Good Hope Toasting 6:30PM ? Dinner at Big Top Tent Sunday August 15 9:00 AM ? Closed Wheel Warm-up 10:50 ? Feature Race Noon Lunch - (this is our Group Lunch) 1PM Awards (Season awards for 2 out of 3 race series pointsand special awards) Stan Mason -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Mon Jul 26 10:33:43 2021 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 16:33:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Fwd: Grattan SMRS 10 year End Of Seasons Award Car Show Extravaganza August 13-15, 2021 In-Reply-To: <786242741.848880.1627317119970@mail.yahoo.com> References: <786242741.848880.1627317119970.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <786242741.848880.1627317119970@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1570852202.845679.1627317223119@mail.yahoo.com> Spridgeeetttss. We have lots of fun planned for our 10th year asSprite Midget Race Series.? Specialracing prototypes from Texas visiting along with other Texas Spridgets.? We appreciate their willingness to bringthese special Sprites to the MidWest (the first time that I am aware of) andshare their rare Healey Gems.?? We willalso be having a Spridget Street and Race Car Show on Saturday and an exclusiveSprite & Midget (bring a story board or history of your car to share). ?Street Sprite Midget Parade Lap targeted for2:30PM with the Sprite Midget exclusive race at 5:10PM.? This makes for a busy day and I ask everyone tobe patient and thankful for being able to do this through VSCDA.? We will have our end of season awards onSunday.? I want to dispel the myth thatthe paddock is already full.? In fact atthis point it is just the opposite with minimal overall VSCDA entries.? I want to encourage everyone that has racedwith us to make this a must do as a Spridget Racer.? To ensure we have enough room in ourdesignated Sprite Midget Compound in our traditional Paddock location tosqueeze in as many Spridgets in as possible, I am requesting that we parkenclosed trailers perpendicular to road on the North and South of access road.? I also ask that you park your tow vehicle inanother area so we can maximize the amount of Spridgets in our area.? Crew cars will not be allowed in paddock withexception of street Sprites and Midgets for car show on Saturday.? Street Spridgets will park at the end of ourpaddock near Turn 7 (toilet bowl).? As Iunderstand it you will be provided a special parking pass based on my recommendationsfor racers.? I think we have enough roomfor 25 to 30 Spridgets with trailers in our area if we all do our part (thisgives you 20 foot of road frontage per racer).?If you have not registered please do it soon to get your early bird discounton or before 7/31.? If you have notregistered and plan on attending please email me so I know you are coming andidentify if your trailer is open or closed along with overall length.? It is possible to do this, as an example WaterfordHill Race Course does not allow any trailers in their paddock. Safety ? This isa special event for Spridgets with rare cars that will be racing with us.? It is very important that we are conscious ofbeing careful especially towards these special cars.? We need to all be very observant, keep thered mist out and focus on Vintage Ideals.?The early laps are critical and we need to keep our cool.? Our group has always been good about DriverMeeting Attendance and I am sure this won?t be an exception. Awards ? Pleasesee schedule below for Sprite Midget Race Series Points (I have highlighted inred).? ??We will be announcing the winner of the GaryKropf Spirit Award and our Jim Donato Most Respected Driver Award.? During our award ceremony on Sunday shortlyafter lunch.? I will provide the criteriafor these 2 awards with a ballot that I would like completed by SaturdayEvening.? We will also will be presentingnew awards provided by our Sponsor Dave Kessigner.? Regalia ? DaveKessinger has provided T-Shirts at no cost as a fund raiser for our SMRS .? They are $20 buy one for your crew and yourAunt Nellie.? We also will have some SMRSstickers for $10 also as a fun raiser donated by Cana and Colin Comer.? Jeff Carlos has posters for $10. Lunch ? We willnot have a Spridget Lunch on Friday but will have one on Saturday and Sunday soplease bring enough for you and your crew and friends plus +20% to cover othersthat join us from tech and workers.? Iwill provide plates, utensils and some condiments.? A volunteer to cook on Saturday and or Sundayis greatly appreciated if you have a friend or crew or you have a failed carplease consider helping.? Precooked bratsare appreciated by reducing grease fires and quicker turnaround ongrilling.? I boil my brats in beer withonions, which is my favorite. AGENDA - Highlighted tentative agenda for Sprites and Midgetsas of July 25, 2021 please verify these times we you receive your driver packetas times can change: We are Group C this year at Grattan which means we are the 3rdgoing out each session out of 6 groups. Friday August 13 9:40 AM ? Practice 11:40 AM ? Practice Lunch ? We will not have our joint lunch Friday 2:50 PM ? Qualifying 1 (lap times perSMRS classification with 8 points awarded to lowest time) 5:00 PM - Cape of Good Hope Pub opens with Presentation bySteve and Mike Coleman on their Historic Sprite Prototypes 6:30PM Dinner at Big Top Tent Saturday August 14 9:40 AM ? Qualifying 2nd 11:00 AM Lunch (this is our Group Lunch and has been movedup from our traditional Noon time so we have time to get ready for Sprint Raceat 12:50) 12:50 PM ? Sprint Race (SMRS Durabilitypoints must remain out for length of race to receive 8 points) 2:30 PM ? Street Sprite Touring Laps 4:00 PM ? Awards of Car Show at Cape of Good Hope 5:10 PM ? 10 year Exclusive SpriteMidget Race (SMRS finish position per class 8 points for 1st inclass) 6:00 PM ? Cape Of Good Hope Toasting 6:30PM ? Dinner at Big Top Tent Sunday August 15 9:00 AM ? Closed Wheel Warm-up 10:50 ? Feature Race Noon Lunch - (this is our Group Lunch) 1PM Awards (Season awards for 2 out of 3 race series pointsand special awards) Stan Mason -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net Mon Jul 26 16:10:38 2021 From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 18:10:38 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] 1275 clutch Message-ID: Since the engines out replacing the 19 year old clutch. Who is a good person to get it from and what brand? Anybody do this recently and happy with the results? Ryan Sent from my iPhone From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jul 26 18:07:13 2021 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 20:07:13 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] 1275 clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought a clutch disc for my race Bugeye from Winners Circle and it worked great. Already had a new pressure plate in the spares pile. Jeff normally sells Borg and Beck products, but he happens to be out of 1275 sets due to slow shipments from the manufacturer blamed on the virus. https://www.spridget.com/product-page/clutch-disc-hd-61-2 Rick > On Jul 26, 2021, at 6:11 PM, Ryan via Spridgets wrote: > > ?Since the engines out replacing the 19 year old clutch. Who is a good person to get it from and what brand? Anybody do this recently and happy with the results? > Ryan > > Sent from my iPhone > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimndi at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 28 07:38:23 2021 From: jimndi at frontiernet.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 09:38:23 -0400 Subject: [Spridgets] Sprite Front brakes References: <043aa424-2a9f-788e-1c41-303cad0bf179.ref@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <043aa424-2a9f-788e-1c41-303cad0bf179@frontiernet.net> Help please, I need a Brake Adjuster and Mask, Moss Part Number 180-105 for a 1960 Sprite. Moss says it is unavailable. Does anyone on the list have this part and and can I purchase it? Thank You Jim Fournier Huguenot, NY.