From billlawrence at hotmail.com  Fri Nov  1 09:16:00 2019
From: billlawrence at hotmail.com (Bill Lawrence)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 15:16:00 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Alternative Fuel Pump Stock Location
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1757.1572454836.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1757.1572454836.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>


Hello All,
My $.02 on alternative fuel pump for a stock/oem Tiger.

I went with the Facet/Purolator cube type (fac40106)  from Pegasus after the stock/original slowly went south.

Fabbed a bracket with heat shield and added an additional fuel filter on the pump inlet for installation in the stock location.   The bracket/heat shield were not included but the nipple and inlet filter and fusible lead were.  Ordered the mounting kit separately along with a spare fuel filter.   I just used marine grade fuel line to connect to the original fuel lines.

Here are a couple pics of the pump w bracket before I locked everything down in case you are interested.  Looks like the Facet is compatible with a variety of fuels and still made in the US.  It does click like the original SU when you power it up but very quiet on the road.

Bill Lawrence
Ft. Lauderdale
1965 Sunbeam Tiger
B9473246LRX


[cid:c0f07bdc-fbb7-45a3-bf2c-a6d0ed2304f5]

[cid:7dbed7e7-224a-4fe1-bbb8-5763ec34739d]
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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Fri Nov  1 09:29:31 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 10:29:31 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Oil Pressure Gauge
Message-ID: <CAKb_wfk1p8cn9aO=yEgk9C-tsRpswpa3jQMkqo0qgEy35swWNw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I'm trying to hook up my oil pressure gauge to my new braided line and I
need an adapter.  The line has a -4 AN male on the gauge end I need to find
out what the fitting is on the gauge.  I've found several different
references that say a 1/8" NPT female will fit on it but the gauge's
threads are not tapered.  So, would 1/8" BSP (straight thread) be the
correct fitting?  I found another reference that said the gauge has 27
threads per inch but the only BSP fitting I've found is 28 threads per inch.

So,  what is the perfect fitting to go on the back of the gauge?

Thanks,
Joe
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Nov  1 10:29:00 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 12:29:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Alternative Fuel Pump Stock Location
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.1757.1572454836.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
 <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001001d590d1$798176f0$6c8464d0$@bluefrog.com>

Bill

                Very nice, well done.  

I also have a cube type fuel pump on my stock Tiger engine but I relocated
it to the trunk wheel well area.

I think the cube type fuel pump is well fitted for a stock engine but I'm
not sure it can support higher HP engines.

 

As always, I believe we all need to know about fuel pump options these days.

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bill Lawrence via
Tigers
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2019 11:16 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Alternative Fuel Pump Stock Location

 

 

Hello All,

My $.02 on alternative fuel pump for a stock/oem Tiger.

 

I went with the Facet/Purolator cube type (fac40106)  from Pegasus after the
stock/original slowly went south.

 

Fabbed a bracket with heat shield and added an additional fuel filter on the
pump inlet for installation in the stock location.   The bracket/heat shield
were not included but the nipple and inlet filter and fusible lead were.
Ordered the mounting kit separately along with a spare fuel filter.   I just
used marine grade fuel line to connect to the original fuel lines. 

 

Here are a couple pics of the pump w bracket before I locked everything down
in case you are interested.  Looks like the Facet is compatible with a
variety of fuels and still made in the US.  It does click like the original
SU when you power it up but very quiet on the road.

 

Bill Lawrence

Ft. Lauderdale

1965 Sunbeam Tiger

B9473246LRX

 

 



 



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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov  1 11:52:18 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (GARY WINBLAD)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 13:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Alternative Fuel Pump Stock Location
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.1757.1572454836.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
 <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2012878574.79987.1572630739089@connect.xfinity.com>

I did the same as Bill in 1995.
The Purolator cube has worked flawlessly ever since, including the stock 5.0L
motor install (what, maybe 230HP?).
I used a small plastic filter on the input, probably should replace that...
The only negative is its pretty continuously noisy!
Gary


> On November 1, 2019 at 11:16 AM Bill Lawrence via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>      
>      
>      
>     Hello All,
>     My $.02 on alternative fuel pump for a stock/oem Tiger.
> 
>     I went with the Facet/Purolator cube type (fac40106)  from Pegasus after the stock/original slowly went south.
> 
>     Fabbed a bracket with heat shield and added an additional fuel filter on the pump inlet for installation in the stock location.   The bracket/heat shield were not included but the nipple and inlet filter and fusible lead were.  Ordered the mounting kit separately along with a spare fuel filter.   I just used marine grade fuel line to connect to the original fuel lines. 
> 
>     Here are a couple pics of the pump w bracket before I locked everything down in case you are interested.  Looks like the Facet is compatible with a variety of fuels and still made in the US.  It does click like the original SU when you power it up but very quiet on the road.
> 
>     Bill Lawrence
>     Ft. Lauderdale
>     1965 Sunbeam Tiger
>     B9473246LRX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     tigers at autox.team.net
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> 
> 
> 


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From sabre2tgr at gmail.com  Fri Nov  1 13:30:02 2019
From: sabre2tgr at gmail.com (Stu)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 15:30:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Alternative Fuel Pump Stock Location
In-Reply-To: <2012878574.79987.1572630739089@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.1757.1572454836.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
 <BN6PR02MB2562432FDA2E7E9BEC36FC92C1620@BN6PR02MB2562.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
 <2012878574.79987.1572630739089@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CA+DpG65kOUF-Q9FL0kpkC==ZD22K_MMuZCQ8PP6_htLTiOvwaw@mail.gmail.com>

I did the same, a Facet cube with a pre-filter in the spare tire well.  I
don't recall the model number, but it was the one recommended for 289
Mustangs from back in the day.  Without thinking one day I turned it on for
a moment when the top was off the carburetor, and the float removed.  Quite
a geyser resulted, it would take a hell of an engine to use gas that fast.


Stu

On Fri, Nov 1, 2019 at 3:18 PM GARY WINBLAD via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I did the same as Bill in 1995.
> The Purolator cube has worked flawlessly ever since, including the stock
> 5.0L
> motor install (what, maybe 230HP?).
> I used a small plastic filter on the input, probably should replace
> that...
> The only negative is its pretty continuously noisy!
> Gary
>
> On November 1, 2019 at 11:16 AM Bill Lawrence via Tigers <
> tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hello All,
> My $.02 on alternative fuel pump for a stock/oem Tiger.
>
> I went with the Facet/Purolator cube type (fac40106)  from Pegasus after
> the stock/original slowly went south.
>
> Fabbed a bracket with heat shield and added an additional fuel filter on
> the pump inlet for installation in the stock location.   The bracket/heat
> shield were not included but the nipple and inlet filter and fusible lead
> were.  Ordered the mounting kit separately along with a spare fuel filter.
>  I just used marine grade fuel line to connect to the original fuel lines.
>
> Here are a couple pics of the pump w bracket before I locked everything
> down in case you are interested.  Looks like the Facet is compatible with a
> variety of fuels and still made in the US.  It does click like the original
> SU when you power it up but very quiet on the road.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> Ft. Lauderdale
> 1965 Sunbeam Tiger
> B9473246LRX
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sabre2tgr at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From h2otor at aol.com  Sat Nov  2 17:43:16 2019
From: h2otor at aol.com (John Watertor)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <2049481825.3787507.1572464474111@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2049481825.3787507.1572464474111.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2049481825.3787507.1572464474111@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253@mail.yahoo.com>

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?


-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.
John Watertor
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Nov  3 09:42:29 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2049481825.3787507.1572464474111.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2049481825.3787507.1572464474111@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1000739199.397178.1572738196253@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>

John

                Thank you for your information.   I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.   I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force. 

 

So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.

 

I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.

 

I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.

 

Ron Fraser 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?



-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> >
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners 

 

The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

 to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.

 

The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember  where 

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going 

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering  the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.

 

My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.

 

Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)  thread cutting fasteners.

 

John Watertor

 

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From jimdamelio at verizon.net  Sun Nov  3 15:42:29 2019
From: jimdamelio at verizon.net (jimdamelio)
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2019 17:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.13.1572820959.2919.tigers@autox.team.net>

Here's my 2 cents on the fasteners.? The metal rivets were part number 2232727.? They were available in the late 70's from Chrysler.? I sold plenty of them and by mistake sold the ones I was saving for myself.? If I remember correctly, Doug Jennings said he had to make a special tip for his rivet gun because the rivets were so small.? Then you had to be careful to not chip the paint or dent the metal when the rivet went pop.7096040 were the plastic replacements for 2232727.? Much easier to use.? I've sold larger ones of these to replace the rivets on the valance panel for the lower grill moulding.7208008 fixing stud is a plastic 'tee' piece that was used in places like the rear of the door and rear quarter. Places that were accessible from the back and needed extra holding power.7208009 sealing bush is a round plastic piece with a step moulded into it that slips over the fixing stud.7208029 thread cutting fastener was superseded to 9034096.? These are just sheet metal nuts that screw on to the fixing stud and makes treads as it goes.?All of the parts begining with 7 were for the Imp.? Of course they held the side moulding on.Hope these come through.? Second time sending. Reduced picture size.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> Date: 11/3/19  11:42 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'John Watertor' <h2otor at aol.com> Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor John??????????????? Thank you for your information.?? I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.?? I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force. ?So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.?I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.?I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.?Ron Fraser ?From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via TigersSent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PMTo: tigers at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor?Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?-----Original Message-----From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pmSubject: side moulding fasteners reply John WatertorIn regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners ?The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.?The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.?My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.?Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.?John Watertor?
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From jimdamelio at verizon.net  Sun Nov  3 15:42:29 2019
From: jimdamelio at verizon.net (jimdamelio)
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2019 17:42:29 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.14.1572820959.2919.tigers@autox.team.net>

Here's my 2 cents on the fasteners.? The metal rivets were part number 2232727.? They were available in the late 70's from Chrysler.? I sold plenty of them and by mistake sold the ones I was saving for myself.? If I remember correctly, Doug Jennings said he had to make a special tip for his rivet gun because the rivets were so small.? Then you had to be careful to not chip the paint or dent the metal when the rivet went pop.7096040 were the plastic replacements for 2232727.? Much easier to use.? I've sold larger ones of these to replace the rivets on the valance panel for the lower grill moulding.7208008 fixing stud is a plastic 'tee' piece that was used in places like the rear of the door and rear quarter. Places that were accessible from the back and needed extra holding power.7208009 sealing bush is a round plastic piece with a step moulded into it that slips over the fixing stud.7208029 thread cutting fastener was superseded to 9034096.? These are just sheet metal nuts that screw on to the fixing stud and makes treads as it goes.?All of the parts begining with 7 were for the Imp.? Of course they held the side moulding on.Hope these come through.? Second time sending. Reduced picture size.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> Date: 11/3/19  11:42 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'John Watertor' <h2otor at aol.com> Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor John??????????????? Thank you for your information.?? I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.?? I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force. ?So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.?I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.?I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.?Ron Fraser ?From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via TigersSent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PMTo: tigers at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor?Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?-----Original Message-----From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pmSubject: side moulding fasteners reply John WatertorIn regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners ?The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.?The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.?My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.?Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.?John Watertor?
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Nov  3 16:09:38 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 18:09:38 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <20191103130720.217C96@m0116788.ppops.net>
References: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
 <20191103130720.217C96@m0116788.ppops.net>
Message-ID: <002101d5929b$c74dab80$55e90280$@bluefrog.com>

Jim

                Thank you very much for the pictures; this is great.

This is the 1st time I have seen the original parts.

 

Anyone have a picture of the 2232727 metal rivet or the 7208029 thread cutting fastener to complete this set of pictures?

I?m guessing 7208029 is similar to 90304096 but it would be nice to know for sure.

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: jimdamelio <jimdamelio at verizon.net> 
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2019 4:07 PM
To: Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>; 'John Watertor' <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

Here's my 2 cents on the fasteners.  The metal rivets were part number 2232727.  They were available in the late 70's from Chrysler.  I sold plenty of them and by mistake sold the ones I was saving for myself.  If I remember correctly, Doug Jennings said he had to make a special tip for his rivet gun because the rivets were so small.  Then you had to be careful to not chip the paint or dent the metal when the rivet went pop.

 

7096040 were the plastic replacements for 2232727.  Much easier to use.  I've sold larger ones of these to replace the rivets on the valance panel for the lower grill moulding.

 

7208008 fixing stud is a plastic 'tee' piece that was used in places like the rear of the door and rear quarter. Places that were accessible from the back and needed extra holding power.

 

7208009 sealing bush is a round plastic piece with a step moulded into it that slips over the fixing stud.

 

7208029 thread cutting fastener was superseded to 9034096.  These are just sheet metal nuts that screw on to the fixing stud and makes treads as it goes.  

 

All of the parts begining with 7 were for the Imp.  Of course they held the side moulding on.

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

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From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Sun Nov  3 16:31:11 2019
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman Miller)
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2019 15:31:11 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <002101d5929b$c74dab80$55e90280$@bluefrog.com>
References: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
 <20191103130720.217C96@m0116788.ppops.net>
 <002101d5929b$c74dab80$55e90280$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <E1iRPKz-000GOW-6Z@elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>


Emacs!

At 03:09 PM 11/3/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>Anyone have a picture of the 2232727 metal rivet or the 7208029 
>thread cutting fastener to complete this set of pictures?
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Nov  3 17:07:14 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 19:07:14 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
In-Reply-To: <E1iRPKz-000GOW-6Z@elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
 <20191103130720.217C96@m0116788.ppops.net>
 <002101d5929b$c74dab80$55e90280$@bluefrog.com>
 <E1iRPKz-000GOW-6Z@elasmtp-mealy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <003201d592a3$d3551230$79ff3690$@bluefrog.com>

Thank you Norm

 

Looks like those rivets have a nice raised flare to grab the side mouldings.

I can see where these could be a bear to install or remove.

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Norman Miller via
Tigers
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2019 6:31 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 


At 03:09 PM 11/3/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:



Anyone have a picture of the 2232727 metal rivet or the 7208029 thread
cutting fastener to complete this set of pictures?

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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 20:26:45 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
Message-ID: <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ@mail.gmail.com>

I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
couple of questions about the panel lights.

1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in
both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?

2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
good  LED replacements?

Thanks,
Joe
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Nov  4 21:16:07 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>

Joe

                

1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in the ON position

 

2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night

http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights

 

I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.

 

1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch? 

 

2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good  LED replacements?

 

Thanks,

Joe

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From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Mon Nov  4 22:11:26 2019
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman Miller)
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
In-Reply-To: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
References: <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Come on you guys.  The two position switch is 
designed for dim, bright and off.  Rootes did 
change this in later cars - simply on or off.



At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>         boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>Joe
>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
>1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? 
>I leave ve it in the ON position
>
>2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? 
>I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
><http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm>http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>
>
>Ron Fraser
>
>From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
>Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
>I now have everything wired up and installed on 
>my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
>1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The 
>panel  lights are on in both of the on 
>positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
>
>2. The panel lights come on but you can barely 
>see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
>
>Thanks,
>Joe
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
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From atwittsend at verizon.net  Mon Nov  4 22:22:27 2019
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Tom Witt)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
In-Reply-To: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
 <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB@user1PC>

?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.? 

Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American English it becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position that doesn?t drain the battery.

From: Norman Miller via Tigers 
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights

Come on you guys.  The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.  Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on or off.



At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:

  Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
          boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
  Content-Language: en-us

  Joe
  ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  
  1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it in the ON position
   
  2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
  http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm 
   
   
  Ron Fraser
   
  From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
  Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
  To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
  Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
   
  I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
   
  1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch? 
   
  2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
   
  Thanks,
  Joe
  _______________________________________________

  tigers at autox.team.net

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

  Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Tue Nov  5 06:22:16 2019
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (clydemclaughlin at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 13:22:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] panel lights
References: <1115081197.914129.1572960136279.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1115081197.914129.1572960136279@mail.yahoo.com>

My switch is only on or off, may be you have wrong switch...Joe's lights are great, it's the way to go, Clyde
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From rollright at aol.com  Tue Nov  5 06:40:34 2019
From: rollright at aol.com (James Armstrong)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 13:40:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] convertible tops
References: <754630868.918254.1572961234012.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <754630868.918254.1572961234012@mail.yahoo.com>


Hello,
I'm looking into a non-standard top material. I always went went with 'stock' items over the years, butI've seen some attractive tops on "higher-end" Brit cars? at shows.
Has anyone installed a canvas or mohair top on their Tiger or Alpine? After talking to Rick, they are likely toshrink less over time than the vinyl.
Comments Please.
Jim ArmstrongMk 1A382002083 LRXFECode 86TAC #....
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From wjtwgoodman at aol.com  Tue Nov  5 07:50:39 2019
From: wjtwgoodman at aol.com (Warren Goodman)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 14:50:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
References: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>


My newest old car has the same function. Dim and not as dim.? I have not seen Joe's but I bet he has softened the color of the LEDs . My aftermarket previous owner installed LEDs are actually on the verge of being annoyingly bright, " not Joe's brand." 


BTW the two position switch often has bad contacts. Some switches will benefit from a electrical contact cleaner spray. 
On Monday, November 4, 2019 tigers-request <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
??? tigers at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? tigers-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? tigers-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. Panel Lights (Joe Brown)
? 2. Re: Panel Lights (Ron Fraser)
? 3. Re: Panel Lights (Norman Miller)
? 4. Re: Panel Lights (Tom Witt)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
Message-ID:
??? <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
couple of questions about the panel lights.

1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are on in
both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch?

2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
good? LED replacements?

Thanks,
Joe
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: "'Joe Brown'" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Joe

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 

1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in the ON position

 

2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night

http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights

 

I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.

 

1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are on in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch? 

 

2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good? LED replacements?

 

Thanks,

Joe

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
From: Norman Miller <rootes1 at earthlink.net>
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

Come on you guys.? The two position switch is 
designed for dim, bright and off.? Rootes did 
change this in later cars - simply on or off.



At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>? ? ? ? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>Joe
>? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
>1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? 
>I leave ve it in the ON position
>
>2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? 
>I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
><http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm>http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>
>
>Ron Fraser
>
>From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
>Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
>I now have everything wired up and installed on 
>my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
>1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The 
>panel? lights are on in both of the on 
>positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch?
>
>2. The panel lights come on but you can barely 
>see them. What are some good? LED replacements?
>
>Thanks,
>Joe
>_______________________________________________
>
>tigers at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
From: "Tom Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.? 

Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American English it becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position that doesn?t drain the battery.

From: Norman Miller via Tigers 
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights

Come on you guys.? The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.? Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on or off.



At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:

? Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
? ? ? ? ? boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
? Content-Language: en-us

? Joe
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? 
? 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it in the ON position
? 
? 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
? http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm 
? 
? 
? Ron Fraser
? 
? From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
? Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
? To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
? Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
? 
? I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
? 
? 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are on in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch? 
? 
? 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good? LED replacements?
? 
? Thanks,
? Joe
? _______________________________________________

? tigers at autox.team.net

? Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

? Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net 


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Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
Tigers mailing list
Tigers at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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------------------------------

End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
***************************************
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Tue Nov  5 08:07:00 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 07:07:00 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
In-Reply-To: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c86a7c8f-f24b-2800-621f-2c381795d5c0@comcast.net>

The switch has a block of carbon that clips in.? If its still there, 
poor contact makes the lights dimmer, if someone

"put a penny in the fuse holder" it will have two bright positions.? 
Bright is a british joke though.? Dim and dimmer

and off are the correct functions.

Gary


On 11/5/2019 6:50 AM, Warren Goodman via Tigers wrote:
>
> My newest old car has the same function. Dim and not as dim.? I have 
> not seen Joe's but I bet he has softened the color of the LEDs . My 
> aftermarket previous owner installed LEDs are actually on the verge of 
> being annoyingly bright, " not Joe's brand."
>
> BTW the two position switch often has bad contacts. Some switches will 
> benefit from a electrical contact cleaner spray.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> On Monday, November 4, 2019 tigers-request <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net>
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> tigers-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-owner at autox.team.net>
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> ? 1. Panel Lights (Joe Brown)
> ? 2. Re: Panel Lights (Ron Fraser)
> ? 3. Re: Panel Lights (Norman Miller)
> ? 4. Re: Panel Lights (Tom Witt)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
> From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com <mailto:jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>>
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID:
> ??? 
> <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com 
> <mailto:CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
> couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are on in
> both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch just an off-on switch?
>
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
> good? LED replacements?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/3a766c43/attachment-0001.htm>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
> From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com <mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com>>
> To: "'Joe Brown'" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com <mailto:jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>>
> Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in the ON 
> position
>
>
>
> 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel 
> light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
>
> From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
>
>
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I 
> have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
>
>
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are on 
> in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on 
> switch?
>
>
>
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some 
> good? LED replacements?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/d9939012/attachment-0001.htm>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
> From: Norman Miller <rootes1 at earthlink.net <mailto:rootes1 at earthlink.net>>
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net 
> <mailto:E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
> Come on you guys.? The two position switch is
> designed for dim, bright and off.? Rootes did
> change this in later cars - simply on or off.
>
>
>
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
> >Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
> >Content-Language: en-us
> >
> >Joe
> >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> >1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ?
> >I leave ve it in the ON position
> >
> >2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ?
> >I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the 
> gages at night
> ><http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm>http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
> >
> >
> >Ron Fraser
> >
> >From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
> >Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> >To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> >Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> >
> >I now have everything wired up and installed on
> >my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
> >
> >1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The
> >panel? lights are on in both of the on
> >positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch?
> >
> >2. The panel lights come on but you can barely
> >see them. What are some good? LED replacements?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Joe
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
> From: "Tom Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net <mailto:atwittsend at verizon.net>>
> To: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC 
> <mailto:B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> ?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.?
>
> Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American English 
> it becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position that doesn?t 
> drain the battery.
>
> From: Norman Miller via Tigers
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
> Come on you guys.? The two position switch is designed for dim, bright 
> and off.? Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on or off.
>
>
>
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
> ? Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
> ? Content-Language: en-us
>
> ? Joe
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> ? 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it in 
> the ON position
>
> ? 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his 
> panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm 
> <http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm 
> >
>
>
> ? Ron Fraser
>
> ? From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
> ? Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> ? To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> ? Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
> ? I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I 
> have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
> ? 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights are 
> on in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on 
> switch?
>
> ? 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are 
> some good? LED replacements?
>
> ? Thanks,
> ? Joe
> ? _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
> ? Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> ? Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net >
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
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> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers mailing list
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
> ***************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jvparlanti at gmail.com  Tue Nov  5 08:15:22 2019
From: jvparlanti at gmail.com (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:15:22 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] convertible tops
In-Reply-To: <754630868.918254.1572961234012@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <754630868.918254.1572961234012@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C7AB7571-96C1-48E5-B8F9-33DC3A93196E@gmail.com>

Jim,

I installed a canvas top on Ronnie Silber?s Tiger and it looks awesome. I plan to do the same on my car as well. I believe that Ronnie Purchased it from Rick.

Cheers,

JVP 



Joseph V. Parlanti 
16048 Copen Meadow Dr.
North Potomac, MD 20878
410-599-5475
jvparlanti at gmail.com


> On Nov 5, 2019, at 8:40 AM, James Armstrong via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm looking into a non-standard top material. I always went went with 'stock' items over the years, but
> I've seen some attractive tops on "higher-end" Brit cars  at shows.
> 
> Has anyone installed a canvas or mohair top on their Tiger or Alpine? After talking to Rick, they are likely to
> shrink less over time than the vinyl.
> 
> Comments Please.
> 
> Jim Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083 LRXFE
> Code 86
> TAC #....
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jvparlanti at gmail.com
> 
> 
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From jvparlanti at gmail.com  Tue Nov  5 08:18:03 2019
From: jvparlanti at gmail.com (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:18:03 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
In-Reply-To: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A677074C-9DDC-4DAE-8393-9ACF04F99564@gmail.com>

My normal LEDs are the cool white (6000k) but I also have the warm white ones (2500k) which are close to the incandescent color. 



Joseph V. Parlanti 
16048 Copen Meadow Dr.
North Potomac, MD 20878
410-599-5475
jvparlanti at gmail.com


> On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:50 AM, Warren Goodman via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My newest old car has the same function. Dim and not as dim.  I have not seen Joe's but I bet he has softened the color of the LEDs . My aftermarket previous owner installed LEDs are actually on the verge of being annoyingly bright, " not Joe's brand." 
> 
> BTW the two position switch often has bad contacts. Some switches will benefit from a electrical contact cleaner spray.
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, November 4, 2019 tigers-request <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
>     tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>     tigers-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>     tigers-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Panel Lights (Joe Brown)
>   2. Re: Panel Lights (Ron Fraser)
>   3. Re: Panel Lights (Norman Miller)
>   4. Re: Panel Lights (Tom Witt)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
> From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID:
>     <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
> couple of questions about the panel lights.
> 
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in
> both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
> 
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
> good  LED replacements?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/3a766c43/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
> From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> To: "'Joe Brown'" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Joe
> 
>                 
> 
> 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in the ON position
> 
> 
> 
> 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
> 
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> 
> 
> From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> 
> 
> 
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch? 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
> From: Norman Miller <rootes1 at earthlink.net>
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Come on you guys.  The two position switch is 
> designed for dim, bright and off.  Rootes did 
> change this in later cars - simply on or off.
> 
> 
> 
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
> >Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> >        boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
> >Content-Language: en-us
> >
> >Joe
> >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> >1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? 
> >I leave ve it in the ON position
> >
> >2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? 
> >I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
> ><http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm>http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
> >
> >
> >Ron Fraser
> >
> >From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
> >Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> >To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> >
> >I now have everything wired up and installed on 
> >my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
> >
> >1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The 
> >panel  lights are on in both of the on 
> >positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
> >
> >2. The panel lights come on but you can barely 
> >see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Joe
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >tigers at autox.team.net
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> >Unsubscribe: 
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
> From: "Tom Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> ?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.? 
> 
> Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American English it becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position that doesn?t drain the battery.
> 
> From: Norman Miller via Tigers 
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net 
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> 
> Come on you guys.  The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.  Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on or off.
> 
> 
> 
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
> 
>   Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>           boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>   Content-Language: en-us
> 
>   Joe
>   ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?  
>   1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it in the ON position
>   
>   2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>   http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm 
>   
>   
>   Ron Fraser
>   
>   From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
>   Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>   To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
>   Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>   
>   I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>   
>   1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch? 
>   
>   2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
>   
>   Thanks,
>   Joe
>   _______________________________________________
> 
>   tigers at autox.team.net
> 
>   Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>   Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>   Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net 
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> https://www.avg.com
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers mailing list
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
> ***************************************
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Tue Nov  5 08:17:58 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:17:58 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
In-Reply-To: <c86a7c8f-f24b-2800-621f-2c381795d5c0@comcast.net>
References: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c86a7c8f-f24b-2800-621f-2c381795d5c0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAKb_wfngLUew_gg4-T+hyRhkANVUzTX=Nh_kMmhLN64VM01Fxg@mail.gmail.com>

I was wondering how you could get  two  levels of  brightness out of that
switch the way it is wired. I  never  noticed a carbon block on the switch
so it must fallen off in the past.  I suppose a resistor could replace it
but I have no idea what value to use or what contacts to put it across.  I
will probably just replace the switch with an  on-off switch.

Thanks,
Joe

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 9:07 AM Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The switch has a block of carbon that clips in.  If its still there, poor
> contact makes the lights dimmer, if someone
>
> "put a penny in the fuse holder" it will have two bright positions.
> Bright is a british joke though.  Dim and dimmer
>
> and off are the correct functions.
>
> Gary
>
>
> On 11/5/2019 6:50 AM, Warren Goodman via Tigers wrote:
>
> My newest old car has the same function. Dim and not as dim.  I have not
> seen Joe's but I bet he has softened the color of the LEDs . My aftermarket
> previous owner installed LEDs are actually on the verge of being annoyingly
> bright, " not Joe's brand."
>
> BTW the two position switch often has bad contacts. Some switches will
> benefit from a electrical contact cleaner spray.
>
>
> ------------------------------
> On Monday, November 4, 2019 tigers-request <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
>     tigers at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>     tigers-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>     tigers-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Panel Lights (Joe Brown)
>   2. Re: Panel Lights (Ron Fraser)
>   3. Re: Panel Lights (Norman Miller)
>   4. Re: Panel Lights (Tom Witt)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
> From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID:
>     <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
> couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in
> both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
>
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
> good  LED replacements?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/3a766c43/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
> From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> To: "'Joe Brown'" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
> <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in the ON
> position
>
>
>
> 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel
> light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>
>
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
>
> From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via
> Tigers
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
>
>
> I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have a
> couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
>
>
> 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in
> both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
>
>
>
> 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
> good  LED replacements?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/d9939012/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
> From: Norman Miller <rootes1 at earthlink.net>
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
> Come on you guys.  The two position switch is
> designed for dim, bright and off.  Rootes did
> change this in later cars - simply on or off.
>
>
>
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
> >Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> >        boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
> >Content-Language: en-us
> >
> >Joe
> >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
> >1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ?
> >I leave ve it in the ON position
> >
> >2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ?
> >I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at
> night
> ><
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
> >
> http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
> >
> >
> >Ron Fraser
> >
> >From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via
> Tigers
> >Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
> >To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
> >Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> >
> >I now have everything wired up and installed on
> >my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
> >
> >1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The
> >panel  lights are on in both of the on
> >positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
> >
> >2. The panel lights come on but you can barely
> >see them. What are some good  LED replacements?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Joe
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >tigers at autox.team.net
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> >Unsubscribe:
> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/cd0d0e7e/attachment-0001.htm
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
> From: "Tom Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
> Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> ?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.?
>
> Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American English it
> becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position that doesn?t drain the
> battery.
>
> From: Norman Miller via Tigers
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
> Come on you guys.  The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and
> off.  Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on or off.
>
>
>
> At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
>   Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>           boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>   Content-Language: en-us
>
>   Joe
>   ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
>   1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it in the ON
> position
>
>   2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his panel
> light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>   http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>
>
>
>   Ron Fraser
>
>   From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via
> Tigers
>   Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>   To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net>
>   Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>
>   I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and I have
> a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>
>   1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel  lights are on in
> both of the on positions.  Why isn't this switch  just an off-on switch?
>
>   2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are some
> good  LED replacements?
>
>   Thanks,
>   Joe
>   _______________________________________________
>
>   tigers at autox.team.net
>
>   Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>   Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>   Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
>
>
>
>
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>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers mailing list
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
> ***************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
>  _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Tue Nov  5 09:48:45 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 08:48:45 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfngLUew_gg4-T+hyRhkANVUzTX=Nh_kMmhLN64VM01Fxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <157441986.1578367.1572965439919.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <157441986.1578367.1572965439919@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c86a7c8f-f24b-2800-621f-2c381795d5c0@comcast.net>
 <CAKb_wfngLUew_gg4-T+hyRhkANVUzTX=Nh_kMmhLN64VM01Fxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <79e71b34-8694-01f6-85e7-be6a12190ec8@comcast.net>

In stock configuration (normal bulbs) with clean gauges, I find the full 
bright position is the only one to use,

it's actually just about right.? I wouldn't bother with a resistor if 
you don't have the carbon block.

The only gauge that is waaayyy too dim is the Tach.? It's problem is 
that the circuit board inside blocks the

bulb light.? If you update the electronics (like you should) with Theo's 
kit, you can cut or remove the old

circuit board and have a visible tach at night.

Gary


On 11/5/2019 7:17 AM, Joe Brown wrote:
> I was wondering how you could get? two? levels of brightness out of 
> that switch the way it is wired. I? never noticed a carbon block on 
> the switch so it must fallen off in the past.? I suppose a resistor 
> could replace it but I have no idea what value to use or what contacts 
> to put it across.? I will probably just replace the switch with an? 
> on-off switch.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 9:07 AM Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     The switch has a block of carbon that clips in.? If its still
>     there, poor contact makes the lights dimmer, if someone
>
>     "put a penny in the fuse holder" it will have two bright
>     positions.? Bright is a british joke though.? Dim and dimmer
>
>     and off are the correct functions.
>
>     Gary
>
>
>     On 11/5/2019 6:50 AM, Warren Goodman via Tigers wrote:
>>
>>     My newest old car has the same function. Dim and not as dim.? I
>>     have not seen Joe's but I bet he has softened the color of the
>>     LEDs . My aftermarket previous owner installed LEDs are actually
>>     on the verge of being annoyingly bright, " not Joe's brand."
>>
>>     BTW the two position switch often has bad contacts. Some switches
>>     will benefit from a electrical contact cleaner spray.
>>
>>
>>
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     On Monday, November 4, 2019 tigers-request <tigers at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
>>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
>>     or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>     tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     You can reach the person managing the list at
>>     tigers-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-owner at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>>     than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."
>>
>>
>>     Today's Topics:
>>
>>     ? 1. Panel Lights (Joe Brown)
>>     ? 2. Re: Panel Lights (Ron Fraser)
>>     ? 3. Re: Panel Lights (Norman Miller)
>>     ? 4. Re: Panel Lights (Tom Witt)
>>
>>
>>     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>     Message: 1
>>     Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:26:45 -0600
>>     From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>>
>>     To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
>>     Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>     Message-ID:
>>     ???
>>     <CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com
>>     <mailto:CAKb_wfkndUjiVdZGG3Pem0Q8Xoy9dgOPav_FcGS4KQdEV7t_mQ at mail.gmail.com>>
>>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>>     I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and
>>     I have a
>>     couple of questions about the panel lights.
>>
>>     1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights
>>     are on in
>>     both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on
>>     switch?
>>
>>     2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are
>>     some
>>     good? LED replacements?
>>
>>     Thanks,
>>     Joe
>>     -------------- next part --------------
>>     An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>     URL:
>>     <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/3a766c43/attachment-0001.htm>
>>
>>     ------------------------------
>>
>>     Message: 2
>>     Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 23:16:07 -0500
>>     From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com
>>     <mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com>>
>>     To: "'Joe Brown'" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>>
>>     Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>>
>>     Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>     Message-ID: <000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
>>     <mailto:000f01d5938f$c0f9f230$42edd690$@bluefrog.com>
>>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>>     Joe
>>
>>
>>
>>     1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave it in
>>     the ON position
>>
>>
>>
>>     2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed his
>>     panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>>
>>     http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     Ron Fraser
>>
>>
>>
>>     From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown
>>     via Tigers
>>     Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>>     To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
>>     Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>
>>
>>
>>     I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard and
>>     I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>>
>>
>>
>>     1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights
>>     are on in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just
>>     an off-on switch?
>>
>>
>>
>>     2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What are
>>     some good? LED replacements?
>>
>>
>>
>>     Thanks,
>>
>>     Joe
>>
>>     -------------- next part --------------
>>     An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>     URL:
>>     <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/d9939012/attachment-0001.htm>
>>
>>     ------------------------------
>>
>>     Message: 3
>>     Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 21:11:26 -0800
>>     From: Norman Miller <rootes1 at earthlink.net
>>     <mailto:rootes1 at earthlink.net>>
>>     To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
>>     Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>     Message-ID: <E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net
>>     <mailto:E1iRr7q-0009wO-0A at elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>>
>>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>>
>>     Come on you guys.? The two position switch is
>>     designed for dim, bright and off.? Rootes did
>>     change this in later cars - simply on or off.
>>
>>
>>
>>     At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>>     >Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>     > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>>     >Content-Language: en-us
>>     >
>>     >Joe
>>     >? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
>>     >1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ?
>>     >I leave ve it in the ON position
>>     >
>>     >2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ?
>>     >I installed his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the
>>     gages at night
>>     ><http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm>http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >Ron Fraser
>>     >
>>     >From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown
>>     via Tigers
>>     >Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>>     >To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
>>     >Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>     >
>>     >I now have everything wired up and installed on
>>     >my dashboard and I have a couple of questions about the panel
>>     lights.
>>     >
>>     >1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The
>>     >panel? lights are on in both of the on
>>     >positions.? Why isn't this switch? just an off-on switch?
>>     >
>>     >2. The panel lights come on but you can barely
>>     >see them. What are some good? LED replacements?
>>     >
>>     >Thanks,
>>     >Joe
>>     >_______________________________________________
>>     >
>>     >tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>>     >
>>     >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>     >
>>     >Unsubscribe:
>>     >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
>>     -------------- next part --------------
>>     An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>     URL:
>>     <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191104/cd0d0e7e/attachment-0001.htm>
>>
>>     ------------------------------
>>
>>     Message: 4
>>     Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:22:27 -0800
>>     From: "Tom Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net
>>     <mailto:atwittsend at verizon.net>>
>>     To: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>>
>>     Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>     Message-ID: <B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC
>>     <mailto:B606231660BA4278A8C040C1E0D3AFCB at user1PC>>
>>     Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>>     ?The two position switch is designed for dim, bright and off.?
>>
>>     Yes, but when the King?s English gets translated into American
>>     English it becomes, can barely see, can?t see, and the position
>>     that doesn?t drain the battery.
>>
>>     From: Norman Miller via Tigers
>>     Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 9:11 PM
>>     To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
>>     Subject: Re: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>
>>     Come on you guys.? The two position switch is designed for dim,
>>     bright and off.? Rootes did change this in later cars - simply on
>>     or off.
>>
>>
>>
>>     At 08:16 PM 11/4/2019, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>>
>>     ? Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>     boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01D59365.D82570D0"
>>     ? Content-Language: en-us
>>
>>     ? Joe
>>     ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
>>     ? 1 ? I have no idea why the switch is like that ? I leave ve it
>>     in the ON position
>>
>>     ? 2 ? Joe Parlanti, TE/AE president has LED kits ? I installed
>>     his panel light kit ? works great, now I can see the gages at night
>>     http://www.velocesolutionsllc.com/Sunbeam-Alpine-and-Tiger-Exterior-Lighting-Kit-Alpine-Tiger-Exterior.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>     ? Ron Fraser
>>
>>     ? From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Joe Brown
>>     via Tigers
>>     ? Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:27 PM
>>     ? To: Tiger Group <tigers at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
>>     ? Subject: [Tigers] Panel Lights
>>
>>     ? I now have everything wired up and installed on my dashboard
>>     and I have a couple of questions about the panel lights.
>>
>>     ? 1. Why is the switch 3 position (off-on-on). The panel? lights
>>     are on in both of the on positions.? Why isn't this switch? just
>>     an off-on switch?
>>
>>     ? 2. The panel lights come on but you can barely see them. What
>>     are some good? LED replacements?
>>
>>     ? Thanks,
>>     ? Joe
>>     _______________________________________________
>>
>>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     ? Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     ? Unsubscribe:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rootes1 at earthlink.net
>>
>>
>>     --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     _______________________________________________
>>
>>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     -- 
>>     This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>>     https://www.avg.com
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>>
>>     ------------------------------
>>
>>     Subject: Digest Footer
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Tigers mailing list
>>     Tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:Tigers at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
>>
>>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>
>>     ------------------------------
>>
>>     End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
>>     ***************************************
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>
>>     tigers at autox.team.net  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>>
>>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>>
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:
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From tsmit at shaw.ca  Tue Nov  5 10:19:09 2019
From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:19:09 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
Message-ID: <1072859727.574067004.1572974349449.JavaMail.zimbra@cds218.dcs.int.inet>

The tach (with the stock board) needs a lamp that directs the light upward at about a 45 to 60 degree angle, and most commercial LED bulbs are either straight to the side or straight up. 

I ended up making a one-off C shaped board with five LEDs on it, that mounted in the rear of the tach case. It provides great illumination but I never took it any further than that. 

Theo

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:49 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Tue Nov  5 10:40:57 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:40:57 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 284
In-Reply-To: <1072859727.574067004.1572974349449.JavaMail.zimbra@cds218.dcs.int.inet>
References: <1072859727.574067004.1572974349449.JavaMail.zimbra@cds218.dcs.int.inet>
Message-ID: <0a0ee6b9-3a46-e9a0-7d96-8f99b5411699@comcast.net>

Well Theo,

With your little board, I just cut a roughly V shape notch in the old 
board (its too much trouble to remove

it entirely).? Stock bulb now illuminates it the same as the stock 
speedo.? LEDs can be much brighter and

one could then actually use a "dimmer" function, not needed with stock 
bulbs.

Do you still sell tach kits??? Mine is still working great.

Gary


On 11/5/2019 9:19 AM, Theo Smit via Tigers wrote:
> The tach (with the stock board) needs a lamp that directs the light upward at about a 45 to 60 degree angle, and most commercial LED bulbs are either straight to the side or straight up.
>
> I ended up making a one-off C shaped board with five LEDs on it, that mounted in the rear of the tach case. It provides great illumination but I never took it any further than that.
>
> Theo
>
>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:49 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Tue Nov  5 14:01:21 2019
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (clydemclaughlin at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 21:01:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] panel light switch
References: <940490232.24531.1572987681655.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <940490232.24531.1572987681655@mail.yahoo.com>

I stand corrected, my switch does have two positions..dim and dimmer Ha Ha...thats until the led bulbs, Clyde
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Nov  6 10:07:07 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:07:07 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] side moulding clips
Message-ID: <000801d594c4$a0cc1d90$e26458b0$@bluefrog.com>

Thanks to all for the pictures.

Like I stated I have never seen the original parts, I was curious so this
was a good education.

I filed down some SS screws for this job.

 

These parts are listed in Imp line of cars - the parts are plastic. except
for the thread cutting fastener which is steel

 

Next question - how were the 6 parts assembled?

Anyone still have this assembly on their Tiger?  

Does anyone have a picture of the assembly?

 

Here is my best guess

 

7208008 is slid into the side moulding and inserted into the correct body
mounting hole

7208009 is pushed onto the shaft of 7208008 on the inside of the panel -
small diameter end 1st 

7208029 or 9035096 is gently threaded onto the shaft of 7208008 and gently
tightened to seal the bush and apply a pulling force on the moulding

 

Ron Fraser

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From h2otor at aol.com  Thu Nov 14 10:46:33 2019
From: h2otor at aol.com (John Watertor)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 17:46:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
References: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>

? I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't? be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers?could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped,?pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost? zero vacuum at the servo unit.? I took the carb off to access the? hosefitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.
Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding? rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)? 70.Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get?them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.John Watertor?


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)
? 2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?


-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.
John Watertor
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: "'John Watertor'" <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

John

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Thank you for your information.? I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.? I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.



So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.



I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.



I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.



Ron Fraser



From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor





-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com?<mailto:h2otor at aol.com> >
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net?<mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners



The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.



The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.



My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.



Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.



John Watertor

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From orr4sale at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 14 12:05:18 2019
From: orr4sale at sbcglobal.net (D or G at sbc)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 19:05:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
In-Reply-To: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1499686865.225182.1573758321641@mail.yahoo.com>

 Dug thru my parts also, some of these have been posted already. attached below.H114404 I believe were on the front of the front side stripe and door? can't remember, odd it only shows 4 required used, so the side trim wouldn't be knocked off easily?5221336 was, I believe, for the chrome badges, replacement for the steel "V" clips, I know I have some "V" clips, but can't locate them.

David Franchi

    On Thursday, November 14, 2019, 9:47:19 AM PST, John Watertor via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 ? I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't? be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers?could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped,?pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost? zero vacuum at the servo unit.? I took the carb off to access the? hosefitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.>From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.
Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding? rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)? 70.Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get?them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.John Watertor?


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)
? 2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?


-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.
John Watertor
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: "'John Watertor'" <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

John

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Thank you for your information.? I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.? I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.



So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.



I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.



I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.



Ron Fraser



From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor





-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com?<mailto:h2otor at aol.com> >
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net?<mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners



The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.



The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.



My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.



Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.



John Watertor

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Nov 14 13:37:45 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 15:37:45 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
In-Reply-To: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001801d59b2b$60db2010$22916030$@bluefrog.com>

John

                You can put the pictures on the list by dragging and dropping them on the email, Tiger List supports pictures now.

 

The brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips?

 

My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how to recreate them but I did.

 

Ron Fraser 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 12:47 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information

 

  I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't  be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers 

could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped, 

pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost  zero vacuum at the servo unit.  I took the carb off to access the  hose

fitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.

>From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.

 

Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding  rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)  70.

Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get 

them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.

John Watertor 

 

 

 

Today's Topics:

 

  1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)

  2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)

 

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Message: 1

Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

To:  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> tigers at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

Message-ID: < <mailto:1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com> 1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

To: tigers-request < <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net>

Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm

Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners

The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.

The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.

My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.

Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.

John Watertor

-------------- next part --------------

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URL: < <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191102/e767a863/attachment-0001.htm> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191102/e767a863/attachment-0001.htm>

 

------------------------------

 

Message: 2

Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500

From: "Ron Fraser" < <mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com> rfraser at bluefrog.com>

To: "'John Watertor'" < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

Cc: < <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net> tigers at Autox.Team.Net>

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

Message-ID: < <mailto:001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com> 001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

John

 

                Thank you for your information.  I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

 

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.  I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.

 

 

 

So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.

 

 

 

I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

 

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.

 

 

 

I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.

 

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

 

 

From: Tigers < <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers

Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM

To:  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> tigers at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com <mailto: <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com> >

To: tigers-request < <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto: <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net> >

Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm

Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners

 

 

 

The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

 

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

 

to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

 

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.

 

 

 

The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember  where

 

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going

 

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering  the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.

 

 

 

My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.

 

 

 

Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)  thread cutting fasteners.

 

 

 

John Watertor

 

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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Nov 14 13:38:03 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 15:38:03 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
In-Reply-To: <1499686865.225182.1573758321641@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1228860430.963178.1573753593481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1228860430.963178.1573753593481@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1499686865.225182.1573758321641@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001d01d59b2b$6bb2b2f0$431818d0$@bluefrog.com>

David

                Great pictures ? thank you very much

I like to see the different possibilities for attaching the side moulding.

 

Ron

 

From: D or G at sbc <orr4sale at sbcglobal.net> 
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 2:05 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net; John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>; rfraser at bluefrog.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information

 

Dug thru my parts also, some of these have been posted already. attached below.

H114404 I believe were on the front of the front side stripe and door? can't remember, odd it only shows 4 required used, so the side trim wouldn't be knocked off easily?

5221336 was, I believe, for the chrome badges, replacement for the steel "V" clips, I know I have some "V" clips, but can't locate them.

 

David Franchi

 

 

On Thursday, November 14, 2019, 9:47:19 AM PST, John Watertor via Tigers < <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> tigers at autox.team.net> wrote: 

 

 

  I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't  be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers 

could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped, 

pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost  zero vacuum at the servo unit.  I took the carb off to access the  hose

fitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.

>From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.

 

Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding  rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)  70.

Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get 

them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.

John Watertor 

 

 

 

Today's Topics:

 

  1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)

  2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)

 

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Message: 1

Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

To:  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> tigers at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

Message-ID: < <mailto:1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com> 1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

To: tigers-request < <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net>

Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm

Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners

The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.

The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.

My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.

Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.

John Watertor

-------------- next part --------------

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URL: < <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191102/e767a863/attachment-0001.htm> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191102/e767a863/attachment-0001.htm>

 

------------------------------

 

Message: 2

Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500

From: "Ron Fraser" < <mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com> rfraser at bluefrog.com>

To: "'John Watertor'" < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com>

Cc: < <mailto:tigers at Autox.Team.Net> tigers at Autox.Team.Net>

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

Message-ID: < <mailto:001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com> 001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

John

 

                Thank you for your information.  I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

 

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.  I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.

 

 

 

So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.

 

 

 

I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

 

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.

 

 

 

I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.

 

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

 

 

From: Tigers < <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers

Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM

To:  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> tigers at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: John Watertor < <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com <mailto: <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> h2otor at aol.com> >

To: tigers-request < <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto: <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> tigers-request at autox.team.net> >

Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm

Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

 

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners

 

 

 

The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

 

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

 

to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

 

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.

 

 

 

The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember  where

 

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going

 

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering  the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.

 

 

 

My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.

 

 

 

Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)  thread cutting fasteners.

 

 

 

John Watertor

 

_______________________________________________

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From h2otor at aol.com  Thu Nov 14 18:11:22 2019
From: h2otor at aol.com (John Watertor)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 01:11:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
References: <2025225961.1230835.1573780282305.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2025225961.1230835.1573780282305@mail.yahoo.com>

Davids photo's shows the side moulding rivets and fasteners I was talking about. Pictures RSCN1563.jpg shows the side moulding rivets and RSCN1567.jpg shows the square head clamping fasteners. Look for message?at D or G at SBC on Nov 14.John Watertor


-----Original Message-----
From: D or G at sbc <orr4sale at sbcglobal.net>
To: tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>; John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>; rfraser at bluefrog.com <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
Sent: Thu, Nov 14, 2019 1:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information

 Dug thru my parts also, some of these have been posted already. attached below.H114404 I believe were on the front of the front side stripe and door? can't remember, odd it only shows 4 required used, so the side trim wouldn't be knocked off easily?5221336 was, I believe, for the chrome badges, replacement for the steel "V" clips, I know I have some "V" clips, but can't locate them.

David Franchi

    On Thursday, November 14, 2019, 9:47:19 AM PST, John Watertor via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 ? I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't? be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers?could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped,?pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost? zero vacuum at the servo unit.? I took the carb off to access the? hosefitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.>From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.
Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding? rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)? 70.Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get?them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.John Watertor?


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)
? 2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?


-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.
John Watertor
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500
From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: "'John Watertor'" <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
Message-ID: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

John

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Thank you for your information.? I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.

I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.? I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.



So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.



I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.

The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.



I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.



Ron Fraser



From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM
To:?tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor





-----Original Message-----
From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com?<mailto:h2otor at aol.com> >
To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net?<mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor

In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners



The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package

of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want

to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners

from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.



The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where

it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going

to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.



My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.



Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.



John Watertor

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Thu Nov 14 19:23:39 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:23:39 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
In-Reply-To: <2025225961.1230835.1573780282305@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2025225961.1230835.1573780282305@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1CC113DF-917D-4123-BE1A-B6E09A512F14@comcast.net>

John,
The square head screws do not clamp, they
just do not in-snap!?  They let go of the
molding when you slide the molding.
Gary


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 14, 2019, at 5:11 PM, John Watertor via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Davids photo's shows the side moulding rivets and fasteners I was talking about. Pictures RSCN1563.jpg shows the side moulding rivets and RSCN1567.jpg shows the square head clamping fasteners. Look for message 
> at D or G at SBC on Nov 14.
> John Watertor
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D or G at sbc <orr4sale at sbcglobal.net>
> To: tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>; John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>; rfraser at bluefrog.com <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 14, 2019 1:05 pm
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
> 
> Dug thru my parts also, some of these have been posted already. attached below.
> H114404 I believe were on the front of the front side stripe and door? can't remember, odd it only shows 4 required used, so the side trim wouldn't be knocked off easily?
> 5221336 was, I believe, for the chrome badges, replacement for the steel "V" clips, I know I have some "V" clips, but can't locate them.
> 
> David Franchi
> 
> 
> On Thursday, November 14, 2019, 9:47:19 AM PST, John Watertor via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>   I had to dig out the plastic tub of tiger parts stored it the lower level of the house that I haven't  be in for the last 30 years. Still had some interesting items that I had forgot about. None of which are for sale. When the tiger dealers 
> could not get any cars any more the dealers closed up shop. I went to a dealer to buy things I might need for the car. I bought a sunbeam hard top for $150.00, a set of brake hoses, and a package of two cloth wrapped, yellow striped, 
> pre cut brake vacuum hose. There was two in the package and he said if he opened the package and took one out he could not return them for credit. I had almost  zero vacuum at the servo unit.  I took the carb off to access the  hose
> fitting and when I removed the vacuum hose the gas vapors had swelled the hose almost shut. Just cut about 2" off the hose and used the old one. Also later when I needed parts I send a order to the Rootes ware house in New Jersey.
> From the ware house I got a bumper, head light rims , upper and lower ball joints, side moulding fasteners and other parts until they closed and the after market part supplies become available.
> 
> Need to correct the information I sent earlier to the list. I found the metal side moulding  rivets which had a flange edge to hold the side mouldings. The Rootes plastic bag has part number 2232727 qty 10 and number E 1 (or l)  70.
> Need to get my son in law to come over and take a picture of the side moulding fasteners and the J. A Pearce rims. Can I send the pictures to Ron Fraser as I don't know how to place them on the form and maybe he will get 
> them on the list for every can view them. B9470515 had the metal rivets for the side mouldings.
> John Watertor 
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (John Watertor)
>   2. Re: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor (Ron Fraser)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:43:16 +0000 (UTC)
> From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
> Message-ID: <1000739199.397178.1572738196253 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Don't know if I sent this reply to you correctly?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
> To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
> Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
> 
> In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
> The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic packageof them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want?to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fastenersfrom the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
> The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember? where?it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going?to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering? the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
> My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
> Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)? thread cutting fasteners.
> John Watertor
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191102/e767a863/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500
> From: "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
> To: "'John Watertor'" <h2otor at aol.com>
> Cc: <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
> Message-ID: <001101d59265$b019f120$104dd360$@bluefrog.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> John
> 
>                 Thank you for your information.  I don?t think I have ever seen any of the original parts and I?m curious about them.
> 
> I bought parts from Sunbeam Specialties to install my side mouldings.  I made a few threaded fasteners to give a more positive clamp force.
> 
> 
> 
> So far the indications are that the parts are from the Imp line due to the starting # of 7 of the part numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> I?m also thinking the 7208029 thread cutting fastener was an optional fastener.
> 
> The number of fasteners did not add up ? 46 are needed but the parts list indicated 52 ? that is why I think the thread cutter was optional.
> 
> 
> 
> I?m still hoping to see picture of the original parts.
> 
> 
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> 
> 
> From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
> Sent: Saturday, November 02, 2019 7:43 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com <mailto:h2otor at aol.com> >
> To: tigers-request <tigers-request at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers-request at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2019 2:41 pm
> Subject: side moulding fasteners reply John Watertor
> 
> In regards to the Tiger side moulding fasteners
> 
> 
> 
> The 7096040 clip (40 required ) These were metal rivets with the head sticking out of the body which was round to snap into the chrome side moulding. I needed some many years ago and purchased a plastic package
> 
> of them from Rootes with 9 in the package. I used 3 of them and still have 6 left some where in the house, that I haven't seen in years. Some one had 5 or 6 for sale on E-bay several years ago, but I did not want
> 
> to pay $5 or $6 each for them. When I had my Tiger painted I had the body man grind them off because the problem of sanding off the old paint and repainting the car. I replaced them with the plastic fasteners
> 
> from the after market parts dealers and are still on the car.
> 
> 
> 
> The 7208008 fixing stud (6) my guess is the 1/8" square head threaded stud to clamp the chrome side molding to the body. There was one at the front of the front moulding, one on the door, I don't remember  where
> 
> it was located and one on the back of the back moulding. I twisted mine off while removing them and had to make the replacements by cutting a 1/8" square brass plate from sheet brass, drilling a hole thru, going
> 
> to the local hobby shop and buying the small bolts and then soldering  the head of the bolt to the 1/8" brass plate.
> 
> 
> 
> My guess the 7208009 (6) sealing bush is a rubber washer to seal the above fixing stud on assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't remember using any 7208029 (6)  thread cutting fasteners.
> 
> 
> 
> John Watertor
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/orr4sale at sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Nov 14 21:19:46 2019
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry Mo Christopherson)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 22:19:46 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Ford VS Ferrari
Message-ID: <001c01d59b6b$ea35d4a0$bea17de0$@suddenlink.net>

Just watched a premiere  showing (My Mustang club rented a theater just for
the showing) of the movie "Ford vs Ferrari".  Outstanding!!!  But I'm sure
there will be someone that will put the movie down for some reason.

 

A lot of things I didn't know about Ken Miles.  Had no idea he was British
(stupid me), what a close relation he had with Carrol Shelby, and what a
hell of a race driver he was.  A lot of the movie is devoted to him.

 

I can only say great movie, be sure to see it!!  There wasn't a single
person in our crowd that didn't like it.

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

TAC insp #58  

 

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From aballard at ix.netcom.com  Fri Nov 15 05:59:19 2019
From: aballard at ix.netcom.com (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 07:59:19 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Ford VS Ferrari
In-Reply-To: <001c01d59b6b$ea35d4a0$bea17de0$@suddenlink.net>
References: <001c01d59b6b$ea35d4a0$bea17de0$@suddenlink.net>
Message-ID: <FB3DFF36-B5AE-4FBB-89BC-562E7BF5429A@ix.netcom.com>

I saw it last night - superb!

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
V6 Alpine

> On Nov 14, 2019, at 11:19 PM, Jerry Mo Christopherson via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Just watched a premiere  showing (My Mustang club rented a theater just for the showing) of the movie ?Ford vs Ferrari?.  Outstanding!!!  But I?m sure there will be someone that will put the movie down for some reason.
>  
> A lot of things I didn?t know about Ken Miles.  Had no idea he was British (stupid me), what a close relation he had with Carrol Shelby, and what a hell of a race driver he was.  A lot of the movie is devoted to him.
>  
> I can only say great movie, be sure to see it!!  There wasn?t a single person in our crowd that didn?t like it.
>  
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
> TAC insp #58  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers <http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aballard at ix.netcom.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aballard at ix.netcom.com>
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From blance598 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 12:58:43 2019
From: blance598 at gmail.com (Lance Beauchamp)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 14:58:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
Message-ID: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>

I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before
I go back to points?
      Beau
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From jay.laifman at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 13:04:31 2019
From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:04:31 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAjp1z69RyfsfQ3bEe5v70LiLR_hqeb1bj3d6DYJEjS_gnB9ew@mail.gmail.com>

Mine works fine.  But then, I have no idea what my dad did.  I will see if
I can figure it out.  But I have to think there are those here that would
know.

On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 11:59 AM Lance Beauchamp via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before
> I go back to points?
>       Beau
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Nov 15 13:15:15 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 15:15:15 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>

Beau

                This is information Randall Antosiak got from Pertonics when he was having a problem, maybe it will help.

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Lance Beauchamp via Tigers
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2019 2:59 PM
To: Tiger Club. Submission <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tach

 

I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before I go back to points?  

      Beau

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov 15 17:25:00 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 16:25:00 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <2c0902c9-784c-859f-e3cf-e2b91c8cae3f@comcast.net>

That information is for a "voltage triggered" tach, we have "current 
triggered" tachs.

WHICH Pertronix do you have?
Original (points replacement) style Pertronix like mine should work fine 
with the stock tach...? IF it still works
correctly!

There is a Pertronix 3 (or 4) that does multiple sparks like an MSD but 
doesn't have a tach output, I don't
have a clue how that would ever work.

Gary
On 11/15/2019 12:15 PM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
> Beau
>
> ??????????????? This is information Randall Antosiak got from 
> Pertonics when he was having a problem, maybe it will help.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> *From:* Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Lance 
> Beauchamp via Tigers
> *Sent:* Friday, November 15, 2019 2:59 PM
> *To:* Tiger Club. Submission <tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Tigers] Tach
>
> I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts 
> before I go back to points?
>
> ? ? ? Beau
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>

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From 65tiger at comcast.net  Fri Nov 15 20:09:33 2019
From: 65tiger at comcast.net (Curtis Fisher)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 19:09:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <1698402766.134261.1573873774459@connect.xfinity.com>

I replaced my stock tach with a Sun tach ~ $29.  removed casing and it slipped in stock location very nicely.  Worked great!
The stock tach had quit working so I had it rebuilt-converted by Tom Hall.  
I put the stock tach back in car when I sold it.
curtis

> On November 15, 2019 at 12:15 PM Ron Fraser via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Beau
> 
>                     This is information Randall Antosiak got from Pertonics when he was having a problem, maybe it will help.
> 
>     Ron Fraser
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Lance Beauchamp via Tigers
>     Sent: Friday, November 15, 2019 2:59 PM
>     To: Tiger Club. Submission <tigers at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: [Tigers] Tach
> 
>      
> 
>     I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before I go back to points?  
> 
>           Beau
> 
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     tigers at autox.team.net
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/65tiger at comcast.net
> 
> 
> 


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From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 16 09:02:36 2019
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 16:02:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>


The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:? Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1ratio.? What does the 4.HA stand for?

My understanding is these are posi traction meaning bothwheels are applying power.

Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speedtop loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80MPH??

Those of you running other rear end rations, other factorsthe same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?

I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car.?

Things to consider:?1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression

600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor

Headers with 2.25? exhaust

15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires

Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission

Believe Salisbury posi rear end 

Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list isendless.? What I am looking for is avery streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that willwork well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highwaycruising.? I am not there yet.? I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).


Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80mph.? Those of you who have switchedratios, please share your pros and cons.

Thank you for your input.

Regards

Joel Martin

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From coolvt at aol.com  Sat Nov 16 09:07:22 2019
From: coolvt at aol.com (coolvt at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 16:07:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1628682316.774524.1573920442979@mail.yahoo.com>

Consider a 5 speed (or 6 speed). With a high overdrive you can cruise at 70 at around 1500-1700 rpm.
In a message dated 11/16/2019 11:03:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes:


The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:? Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio.? What does the 4.HA stand for?

My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power.

Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH??

Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?

I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car.?

Things to consider:? 1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression

600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor

Headers with 2.25? exhaust

15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires

Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission

Believe Salisbury posi rear end

Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.? What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising.? I am not there yet.? I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).

Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.? Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.

Thank you for your input.

Regards

Joel Martin
_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Sat Nov 16 09:16:34 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 08:16:34 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>

Stock rear end is NOT posi.? It is now called Dana44, same diff as a lot 
of 4x4 front as well as others.
A normal rear end shop can put posi in if someone didn't do yours before.
Axles, bearings, hubs are unique Tiger.
Stock is about 2450RPM at 60, way too fast unless you have a big cam IMHO.
Big carb, hopped up 289, you probably get 14mpg highway?? Ouch.
I have a stock 5.0L/T-5 wide ratio..? maybe 220HP, 14in wheels =1950RPM 
at 70.. NICE.? Like a modern car
MPG > 20 but? not sure..
Good luck,
Gary


On 11/16/2019 8:02 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote:
>
> The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with 
> a 2.88 to 1 ratio.What does the 4.HA stand for?
>
> My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are 
> applying power.
>
> Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader 
> transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH?
>
> Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, 
> what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?
>
> I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip 
> in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car.
>
> Things to consider:1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and 
> estimated 9.4.1 compression
>
> 600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor
>
> Headers with 2.25? exhaust
>
> 15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires
>
> Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission
>
> Believe Salisbury posi rear end
>
> Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.What I am 
> looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi 
> rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between 
> acceleration for fun and highway cruising.I am not there yet.? I have 
> the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising 
> (of course - avoid highways\interstate).
>
> Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.Those 
> of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.
>
> Thank you for your input.
>
> Regards
>
> Joel Martin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>

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From tsmit at shaw.ca  Sat Nov 16 09:47:10 2019
From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 09:47:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
 <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>

Didn't the axle spline count change at some point? So you can do the conversion but there are a few extra tweaks necessary, possibly up to and including the installation of new axles. 

IIRC most of the period posi conversions were done using a Jaguar differential assembly. Then there is something that sticks in my mind where the original ring gear bolts are smaller than what is being used now. So if you're using a modern posi unit then you have to use stepped ring gear bolts. 

My Tiger has the 3.31 gears (and a Torsen LSD) and it spins at about 3000 RPM at 60 MPH, in fourth. The five speed makes it livable but first gear is really short. Still need to change it over to the Z ratios. 

-Theo 





From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>, "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 9:16:34 AM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Differential 

Stock rear end is NOT posi. It is now called Dana44, same diff as a lot of 4x4 front as well as others. 
A normal rear end shop can put posi in if someone didn't do yours before. 
Axles, bearings, hubs are unique Tiger. 
Stock is about 2450RPM at 60, way too fast unless you have a big cam IMHO. 
Big carb, hopped up 289, you probably get 14mpg highway? Ouch. 
I have a stock 5.0L/T-5 wide ratio.. maybe 220HP, 14in wheels =1950RPM at 70.. NICE. Like a modern car 
MPG > 20 but not sure.. 
Good luck, 
Gary 


On 11/16/2019 8:02 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote: 





The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are: Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio. What does the 4.HA stand for? 

My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power. 

Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH? 

Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio? 

I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car. 

Things to consider: 1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression 

600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor 

Headers with 2.25? exhaust 

15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires 

Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission 

Believe Salisbury posi rear end 

Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless. What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising. I am not there yet. I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate). 


Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph. Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons. 

Thank you for your input. 

Regards 

Joel Martin 


_______________________________________________ [ mailto:tigers at autox.team.net | tigers at autox.team.net ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers | http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers ] [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] Unsubscribe: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net ] 




_______________________________________________ 

tigers at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
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From tsmit at shaw.ca  Sat Nov 16 09:50:02 2019
From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 09:50:02 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1124513710.628926634.1573923002071.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>

Tom Hall should be able to put replacement electronics in your tach to make it happier with the extended dwell that the pertronix provides. If he does not have any module boards then I still have a few around before I need to decide to do another run. 

Theo 


From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
To: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2019 12:58:43 PM 
Subject: [Tigers] Tach 

I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before I go back to points? 
Beau 

_______________________________________________ 

tigers at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca 
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From jbsyv at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 16 11:38:28 2019
From: jbsyv at yahoo.com (Jim B)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:38:28 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
 <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>
 <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <BBC7D05D-E489-49F7-B9C7-6F294FDECDE1@yahoo.com>

I have a T5 with 3.31:1 gears. Runs around 2200 rpm at 70 mph. I?m using a Torsen type LSD with 28 spline axles from Sunbeam Specificities. I used a TruTrac diff. But there are others.

If keeping the 4 speed, I?d suggest using one of the online calculators to determine engine RPM at various speeds with various rear gears. Maybe a 3.00:1 ? Lot?s of choices. 

> On Nov 16, 2019, at 8:47 AM, Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Didn't the axle spline count change at some point? So you can do the conversion but there are a few extra tweaks necessary, possibly up to and including the installation of new axles.
> 
> IIRC most of the period posi conversions were done using a Jaguar differential assembly. Then there is something that sticks in my mind where the original ring gear bolts are smaller than what is being used now. So if you're using a modern posi unit then you have to use stepped ring gear bolts.
> 
> My Tiger has the 3.31 gears (and a Torsen LSD) and it spins at about 3000 RPM at 60 MPH, in fourth. The five speed makes it livable but first gear is really short. Still need to change it over to the Z ratios.
> 
> -Theo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com <mailto:jmartiniii at yahoo.com>>, "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 9:16:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
> 
> Stock rear end is NOT posi.  It is now called Dana44, same diff as a lot of 4x4 front as well as others.
> A normal rear end shop can put posi in if someone didn't do yours before.
> Axles, bearings, hubs are unique Tiger.
> Stock is about 2450RPM at 60, way too fast unless you have a big cam IMHO.
> Big carb, hopped up 289, you probably get 14mpg highway?  Ouch.
> I have a stock 5.0L/T-5 wide ratio..  maybe 220HP, 14in wheels =1950RPM at 70.. NICE.  Like a modern car
> MPG > 20 but  not sure..
> Good luck,
> Gary
> 
> 
> On 11/16/2019 8:02 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote:
> The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:  Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio.  What does the 4.HA stand for?
> 
> My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power.
> 
> Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH? 
> 
> Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?
> 
> I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car. 
> 
> Things to consider:  1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression
> 
> 600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor
> 
> Headers with 2.25? exhaust
> 
> 15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires
> 
> Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission
> 
> Believe Salisbury posi rear end
> 
> Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.  What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising.  I am not there yet.  I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).
> 
> Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.  Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.
> 
> Thank you for your input.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Joel Martin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers <http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers <http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com>
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From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Sat Nov 16 12:27:58 2019
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (clydemclaughlin at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 19:27:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger rear end
References: <259294841.789185.1573932478483.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <259294841.789185.1573932478483@mail.yahoo.com>

The internals in a XKE are Dana 44, like the Tiger, ?But the Jags came with LSD. If you need rear gear parts for anything you can find it at Randy's Ring and Pinion. You can even get spider gears with different splines so if you get a LSD or Post unit that doesn't match the Tiger axle spline you can change the spider gears to match the axles spline. They have the different pinion yokes, shim and bearing kits and the tools for removing the bearings
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From orr4sale at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 16 12:49:04 2019
From: orr4sale at sbcglobal.net (D or G at sbc)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 19:49:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger rear end
In-Reply-To: <259294841.789185.1573932478483@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <259294841.789185.1573932478483.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <259294841.789185.1573932478483@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <462346761.796657.1573933744638@mail.yahoo.com>

 Do you have a link? There are a few with the same name, is either of these them?
David

http://www.randysgearsupply.com/ring-pinion-sets/ 

https://www.randysworldwide.com/
    On Saturday, November 16, 2019, 11:28:11 AM PST, clyde mclaughlin via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 The internals in a XKE are Dana 44, like the Tiger, ?But the Jags came with LSD. If you need rear gear parts for anything you can find it at Randy's Ring and Pinion. You can even get spider gears with different splines so if you get a LSD or Post unit that doesn't match the Tiger axle spline you can change the spider gears to match the axles spline. They have the different pinion yokes, shim and bearing kits and the tools for removing the bearings_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

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From e.coiner at cox.net  Sat Nov 16 12:55:10 2019
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner e.coiner)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 14:55:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
 <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>
 <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <135187576.630594.1573934110552@myemail.cox.net>

My Tiger came with close ratio box and 3.07:1 gears.  It spun 3500 rpm at 75 mph.  I drove it from San Diego to Monterey on several occasions.  It never had any trouble.  

I replaced the close ratio with wide ratio gears for better launch.

Most recently I replaced the rear end gears with 2.72:1 gears from a Jeep Wagoneer.  75 mph is now a more reasonable 3100.


> On November 16, 2019 at 11:47 AM Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>     Didn't the axle spline count change at some point? So you can do the conversion but there are a few extra tweaks necessary, possibly up to and including the installation of new axles.
> 
>     IIRC most of the period posi conversions were done using a Jaguar differential assembly. Then there is something that sticks in my mind where the original ring gear bolts are smaller than what is being used now. So if you're using a modern posi unit then you have to use stepped ring gear bolts.
> 
>     My Tiger has the 3.31 gears (and a Torsen LSD) and it spins at about 3000 RPM at 60 MPH, in fourth. The five speed makes it livable but first gear is really short. Still need to change it over to the Z ratios.
> 
>     -Theo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>     From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
>     To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>, "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 9:16:34 AM
>     Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
> 
>     Stock rear end is NOT posi.  It is now called Dana44, same diff as a lot of 4x4 front as well as others.
>     A normal rear end shop can put posi in if someone didn't do yours before.
>     Axles, bearings, hubs are unique Tiger.
>     Stock is about 2450RPM at 60, way too fast unless you have a big cam IMHO.
>     Big carb, hopped up 289, you probably get 14mpg highway?  Ouch.
>     I have a stock 5.0L/T-5 wide ratio..  maybe 220HP, 14in wheels =1950RPM at 70.. NICE.  Like a modern car
>     MPG > 20 but  not sure..
>     Good luck,
>     Gary
> 
> 
>     On 11/16/2019 8:02 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:  Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio.  What does the 4.HA stand for?
> > 
> >         My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power.
> > 
> >         Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH? 
> > 
> >         Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?
> > 
> >         I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car. 
> > 
> >         Things to consider:  1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression
> > 
> >         600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor
> > 
> >         Headers with 2.25? exhaust
> > 
> >         15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires
> > 
> >         Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission
> > 
> >         Believe Salisbury posi rear end
> > 
> >         Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.  What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising.  I am not there yet.  I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).
> > 
> >         Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.  Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.
> > 
> >         Thank you for your input.
> > 
> >         Regards
> > 
> >         Joel Martin
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         _______________________________________________
> > 
> >         tigers at autox.team.net mailto:tigers at autox.team.net
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>     _______________________________________________
> 
>     tigers at autox.team.net
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca
> 


 

> _______________________________________________
> 
>     tigers at autox.team.net
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net
> 
> 
> 


 
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From twotigers at verizon.net  Sat Nov 16 14:15:44 2019
From: twotigers at verizon.net (twotigers at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 13:15:44 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002e01d59cc3$02b54e90$081febb0$@verizon.net>

I have 2:88 with 205/60-13 tires- runs 3000 rpms at 70 mph.  Kirk

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joel Martin via Tigers
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 8:03 AM
To: Tiger List Serve <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential

 

The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:  Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio.  What does the 4.HA stand for?

My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power.

Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH?  

Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?

I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car.  

Things to consider:  1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression

600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor

Headers with 2.25? exhaust

15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires

Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission

Believe Salisbury posi rear end 

Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.  What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising.  I am not there yet.  I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).

Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.  Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.

Thank you for your input.

Regards

Joel Martin

 

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From coolvt at aol.com  Sat Nov 16 08:16:34 2019
From: coolvt at aol.com (coolvt at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:16:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <2c0902c9-784c-859f-e3cf-e2b91c8cae3f@comcast.net>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
 <2c0902c9-784c-859f-e3cf-e2b91c8cae3f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1540616133.747389.1573917394973@mail.yahoo.com>

So, this cure won't work with the standard Tiger tach?? I've had a pertronix version 1 and 2 and they both cause the tach to jump all over.
In a message dated 11/15/2019 7:31:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes:

That information is for a "voltage triggered" tach, we have "current triggered" tachs.

WHICH Pertronix do you have?
Original (points replacement) style Pertronix like mine should work fine with the stock tach...? IF it still works
correctly!

There is a Pertronix 3 (or 4) that does multiple sparks like an MSD but doesn't have a tach output, I don't
have a clue how that would ever work.

Gary
On 11/15/2019 12:15 PM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
Beau

??????????????? This is information Randall Antosiak got from Pertonics when he was having a problem, maybe it will help.

Ron Fraser

?

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Lance Beauchamp via Tigers
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2019 2:59 PM
To: Tiger Club. Submission <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tach

?

I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before I go back to points? ?

? ? ? Beau

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Sat Nov 16 08:33:16 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 07:33:16 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <1540616133.747389.1573917394973@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000501d59bf1$66616460$33242d20$@bluefrog.com>
 <2c0902c9-784c-859f-e3cf-e2b91c8cae3f@comcast.net>
 <1540616133.747389.1573917394973@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9c7e579c-0bc0-6ef0-ef3b-bc474aad4ecc@comcast.net>

No.
You probably need to rebuild the tach.
Or, do you have solid core plug wires?? Not recommended for Pertronix 
(IIRC) and put out LOTS of noise
that could be a problem.
Gary


On 11/16/2019 7:16 AM, coolvt at aol.com wrote:
> So, this cure won't work with the standard Tiger tach?? I've had a 
> pertronix version 1 and 2 and they both cause the tach to jump all over.
>
> In a message dated 11/15/2019 7:31:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> tigers at autox.team.net writes:
>
>     That information is for a "voltage triggered" tach, we have
>     "current triggered" tachs.
>
>     WHICH Pertronix do you have?
>     Original (points replacement) style Pertronix like mine should
>     work fine with the stock tach...? IF it still works
>     correctly!
>
>     There is a Pertronix 3 (or 4) that does multiple sparks like an
>     MSD but doesn't have a tach output, I don't
>     have a clue how that would ever work.
>
>     Gary
>     On 11/15/2019 12:15 PM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
>     Beau
>
>     This is information Randall Antosiak got from Pertonics when he
>     was having a problem, maybe it will help.
>
>     Ron Fraser
>
>     *From:* Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Lance
>     Beauchamp via Tigers
>     *Sent:* Friday, November 15, 2019 2:59 PM
>     *To:* Tiger Club. Submission <tigers at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Tigers] Tach
>
>     I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any
>     thoughts before I go back to points?
>
>     ? ? ? Beau
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
>
>

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From mwood24020 at aol.com  Sat Nov 16 09:52:39 2019
From: mwood24020 at aol.com (Michael Wood)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 16:52:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Differential
In-Reply-To: <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
References: <381467494.773614.1573920156530.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <381467494.773614.1573920156530@mail.yahoo.com>
 <52eacc29-6118-e09d-d4b3-b2e87752297a@comcast.net>
 <866435181.628915112.1573922830748.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <911462799.777953.1573923159526@mail.yahoo.com>

Easy enough to use the linked speed-in-gear RPM calculator to both answer the original questions and model out different scenarios.?

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator




-----Original Message-----
From: Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: Joel Martin <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>; tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Nov 16, 2019 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Differential

Didn't the axle spline count change at some point? So you can do the conversion but there are a few extra tweaks necessary, possibly up to and including the installation of new axles.
IIRC most of the period posi conversions were done using a Jaguar differential assembly. Then there is something that sticks in my mind where the original ring gear bolts are smaller than what is being used now. So if you're using a modern posi unit then you have to use stepped ring gear bolts.
My Tiger has the 3.31 gears (and a Torsen LSD) and it spins at about 3000 RPM at 60 MPH, in fourth. The five speed makes it livable but first gear is really short. Still need to change it over to the Z ratios.
-Theo



From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: "Joel Martin" <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>, "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 9:16:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Differential

Stock rear end is NOT posi.? It is now called Dana44, same diff as a lot of 4x4 front as well as others.
 A normal rear end shop can put posi in if someone didn't do yours before.
 Axles, bearings, hubs are unique Tiger.
 Stock is about 2450RPM at 60, way too fast unless you have a big cam IMHO.
 Big carb, hopped up 289, you probably get 14mpg highway?? Ouch.
 I have a stock 5.0L/T-5 wide ratio..? maybe 220HP, 14in wheels =1950RPM at 70.. NICE.? Like a modern car
 MPG > 20 but? not sure..
 Good luck,
 Gary
 
 
 On 11/16/2019 8:02 AM, Joel Martin via Tigers wrote:
  
    
The manual shows that Tiger rear ends are:? Salisbury hypoid ?4.HA? with a 2.88 to 1 ratio.? What does the 4.HA stand for?
 
My understanding is these are posi traction meaning both wheels are applying power.
 
Those of you with 2.88 rear ratio gears, wide ratio 4 speed top loader transmissions, what is your RPM?s in fourth at 50, 60,70 & 80 MPH?? 
 
Those of you running other rear end rations, other factors the same, what are your RPM?s at the same speed and what ratio?
 
I like to drive my cars and just got back from a 1,263 mile 6 day trip in my original owner 1973 MGB with 229,000 miles on the car.? 
 
Things to consider:? 1966 MK1A with 289 HiPo motor with about 300 HP and estimated 9.4.1 compression
 
600 cfm 4 barrel Holley carburetor
 
Headers with 2.25? exhaust
 
15? wheels running 205\50 x 15 tires
 
Wide ratio top loader 4 speed transmission
 
Believe Salisbury posi rear end 
 
Closed, open, locked, posi, ratios ? the list is endless.? What I am looking for is a very streetable around town and on the highway posi rear end ratio that will work well with a good balance between acceleration for fun and highway cruising.? I am not there yet.? I have the acceleration for fun part in place but not the highway cruising (of course - avoid highways\interstate).
 
 
Data means a lot regarding RPM?s at speeds between 50 to 80 mph.? Those of you who have switched ratios, please share your pros and cons.
 
Thank you for your input.
 
Regards
 
Joel Martin
  
   
  _______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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_______________________________________________

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From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Sun Nov 17 06:21:44 2019
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (clydemclaughlin at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 13:21:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
References: <1453089245.914279.1573996904080.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1453089245.914279.1573996904080@mail.yahoo.com>

You don't need to worry about spline count on axle unless you rpl the tiger axles with something else, I changed to Ford axles. Thats another story..The other spline to note is the pinion if you change the ring and pinion. The early Dana 44 pinions have a course spline, all new replacement gears have a finer spline, more surface area and are stronger, it will require a companion flange to connect the drive shaft.??These are readily available
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From dave at munroe.ca  Sun Nov 17 06:37:34 2019
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:37:34 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <1453089245.914279.1573996904080@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>

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From mark44124 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 17 08:19:07 2019
From: mark44124 at gmail.com (Mark Rense)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 10:19:07 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd:  Tach
In-Reply-To: <CA+8dKTuFGjaxgU+bHbxDwDqp-JyTUno+U0m7h2R6zsXc7H_uzw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CA+8dKTuFGjaxgU+bHbxDwDqp-JyTUno+U0m7h2R6zsXc7H_uzw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+8dKTuJzwW2TmEEVDfauXdLHAEM+iZOiFkLPEBVTRwj4d+Kpg@mail.gmail.com>

My stock tachs were rebuilt by Nisonger and upgraded to electronic
internals. They all work on Pertronix type III and MSD. It?s a $100
upgrade.

On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 2:59 PM Lance Beauchamp via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before
> I go back to points?
>       Beau
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark44124 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Sun Nov 17 08:52:42 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:52:42 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Tach
In-Reply-To: <CA+8dKTuJzwW2TmEEVDfauXdLHAEM+iZOiFkLPEBVTRwj4d+Kpg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CA+8dKTuFGjaxgU+bHbxDwDqp-JyTUno+U0m7h2R6zsXc7H_uzw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CA+8dKTuJzwW2TmEEVDfauXdLHAEM+iZOiFkLPEBVTRwj4d+Kpg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <900ba392-d225-f3b0-8a01-f8548bba3128@comcast.net>

Is that a $100 upgrade in addition to a $$$ rebuild??
Gary


On 11/17/2019 7:19 AM, Mark Rense via Tigers wrote:
> My stock tachs were rebuilt by Nisonger and upgraded to electronic 
> internals. They all work on Pertronix type III and MSD. It?s a $100 
> upgrade.
>
> On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 2:59 PM Lance Beauchamp via Tigers 
> <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any
>     thoughts before I go back to points?
>     ? ? ? Beau
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark44124 at gmail.com
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jbsyv at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 17 13:11:09 2019
From: jbsyv at yahoo.com (Jim B)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:11:09 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
References: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
Message-ID: <A6A3B7C9-16B0-45A8-BE52-9F5ADC15B08B@yahoo.com>

The Tiger rear axles are 19 spline which are out dated. There are diffs. that will accept this like the Auburn clutch type LSD but, last I checked they had some QC problems with fit. Changing to 28-30 spline axles and pinion will give you a better choice for an LSD. Or, just change the R&P back to 2.88 if the LSD is not a real concern. (I have a set) I will say that the Torsen type LSD in my Tiger really hooks up great. Better than I expected actually. However, the cost is something to consider. I probably put close to a grand in the rear end with new gears, pinion, axles, bearings etc, shop time and the LSD diff. Best of luck.
Jim

> On Nov 17, 2019, at 5:37 AM, Dave Munroe via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> So Clyde;
> 
> Are you saying my stock rear end ( '65 Mark 1A -  B382000450) which came to me with a 3:07 set of gears could be easily changed back to a set of stock 2:88 gears ( or even lower!) ?
> 
> Do you know what the lowest possible gear set might be?
> 
> Love to drop my cruising speed rpm to something more comfortable.
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry ? the most secure mobile device ? via the Bell Network
> From: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: November 17, 2019 9:25 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> Reply to: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net <mailto:clydemclaughlin at verizon.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
> 
> You don't need to worry about spline count on axle unless you rpl the tiger axles with something else, I changed to Ford axles. Thats another story..The other spline to note is the pinion if you change the ring and pinion. The early Dana 44 pinions have a course spline, all new replacement gears have a finer spline, more surface area and are stronger, it will require a companion flange to connect the drive shaft.  These are readily available
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
> 
> 

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From jbsyv at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 17 13:11:09 2019
From: jbsyv at yahoo.com (Jim B)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:11:09 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
References: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
Message-ID: <A6A3B7C9-16B0-45A8-BE52-9F5ADC15B08B@yahoo.com>

The Tiger rear axles are 19 spline which are out dated. There are diffs. that will accept this like the Auburn clutch type LSD but, last I checked they had some QC problems with fit. Changing to 28-30 spline axles and pinion will give you a better choice for an LSD. Or, just change the R&P back to 2.88 if the LSD is not a real concern. (I have a set) I will say that the Torsen type LSD in my Tiger really hooks up great. Better than I expected actually. However, the cost is something to consider. I probably put close to a grand in the rear end with new gears, pinion, axles, bearings etc, shop time and the LSD diff. Best of luck.
Jim

> On Nov 17, 2019, at 5:37 AM, Dave Munroe via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> So Clyde;
> 
> Are you saying my stock rear end ( '65 Mark 1A -  B382000450) which came to me with a 3:07 set of gears could be easily changed back to a set of stock 2:88 gears ( or even lower!) ?
> 
> Do you know what the lowest possible gear set might be?
> 
> Love to drop my cruising speed rpm to something more comfortable.
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry ? the most secure mobile device ? via the Bell Network
> From: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: November 17, 2019 9:25 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
> Reply to: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net <mailto:clydemclaughlin at verizon.net>
> Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
> 
> You don't need to worry about spline count on axle unless you rpl the tiger axles with something else, I changed to Ford axles. Thats another story..The other spline to note is the pinion if you change the ring and pinion. The early Dana 44 pinions have a course spline, all new replacement gears have a finer spline, more surface area and are stronger, it will require a companion flange to connect the drive shaft.  These are readily available
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
> 
> 

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From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 18 07:21:14 2019
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 14:21:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
References: <1453089245.914279.1573996904080@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
Message-ID: <421356218.1718139.1574086874920@mail.yahoo.com>

 Dave,
Stock Tigers came with a Salisbury rearend. Salisbury is the British subsidiary of Dana/Spicer Corp. These British units came in Sunbeam Tigers, Jag XKEs, AC Cobras and TVR Griffiths, and used 7/16" ring gear bolts and a 10 spline (coarse) pinion gear. The factory offered other LAT ratios of 3.07, 3.31, 3.54 and 3.73 for those units.
The American version of the Dana 44 rearend uses 3/8" ring gear bolts and a 26 spline (fine) pinion gear. Most Tiger owners in the USA, who have upgrade to a positraction unit (limited-slip) and changed their rearend ratio to something other than the factory 2.88, have installed the American version with the 3/8" ring gear bolts and switch over to the fine spline input flange.
If?you changed back to 2.88s, you would have to find an original Salisbury posi unit (rare) or drill out an American unit for the 7/16" ting gear bolts and get a 10 spline input flange.
In the 1980s Dana made Dane 44 2.72 rearend gears for Jeep Wagoneers, Cherokees, Grand Cherokees and C3 Corvettes. The 2.72 gears have 3/6" ring gear bolts and a fine spline pinion, and will bolt into any Tiger rearend that has the American differential.
Since I sold you the posi unit in your car (2009), this is what I recommend. The 2.72 gears will bolt right up to your posi unit and you can use your existing fine spline pinion gear flange.?Changing from 3.07s to 2.72s will give you a ~14% drop in rpms in 4th gear, ~300 rpms.? However, your 1st gear will be taller, too, so do NOT run 2.72 gears with a close ratio transmission or you'll burn up your clutch in no time. 2.88 gears are bad enough with a close ratio in 1st gear, so 2.72s will be worse.
My other recommendation is to?convert to a wide ratio transmission and?install a 2.90 1st gear (from Dan William's Toploaders). This gives you a fabulous hole shot, while not impacting your 4th gear highway cruising. I have helped a bunch of Tiger owners convert to this setup and they all love it. It is the best of both worlds, short of a 5 speed, but at a fraction of the cost.
Gary
    On Sunday, November 17, 2019, 06:37:42 AM MST, Dave Munroe via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
   So Clyde;
Are you saying my stock rear end ( '65 Mark 1A -? B382000450) which came to me with a 3:07 set of gears could be easily changed back to a set of stock 2:88 gears ( or even lower!) ?
Do you know what the lowest possible gear set might be?
Love to drop my cruising speed rpm to something more comfortable.
Dave  
  Sent from my BlackBerry ? the most secure mobile device ? via the Bell Network  
|   From: tigers at autox.team.netSent: November 17, 2019 9:25 AMTo: tigers at autox.team.netReply to: clydemclaughlin at verizon.netSubject: [Tigers] axle spline |

 
 You don't need to worry about spline count on axle unless you rpl the tiger axles with something else, I changed to Ford axles. Thats another story..The other spline to note is the pinion if you change the ring and pinion. The early Dana 44 pinions have a course spline, all new replacement gears have a finer spline, more surface area and are stronger, it will require a companion flange to connect the drive shaft.??These are readily available_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue at yahoo.com


  
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From dave at munroe.ca  Mon Nov 18 07:30:30 2019
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 10:30:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <A6A3B7C9-16B0-45A8-BE52-9F5ADC15B08B@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f1ddtfakpcu44cbqem88oka7.1574087430155@munroe.ca>

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From mark44124 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 18 10:28:13 2019
From: mark44124 at gmail.com (Mark Rense)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 12:28:13 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] axle spline
In-Reply-To: <421356218.1718139.1574086874920@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1453089245.914279.1573996904080@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5f92dpjducirone2dtfpkkqi.1573997854932@munroe.ca>
 <421356218.1718139.1574086874920@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+8dKTsRRTngRtc5F0UqLZ61XATS934t39_DJHyYBpPwUegTdg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Gary for the clarifications. I bought a LSD from you a while back
and it worked out very well.

I found a 2.72:1 gear set out of ?81 Corvette and modded it to fit the
Salisbury carrier. I also installed a WIDE RATIO Toploader. This
combination works perfectly with the full-roller stroked 289 that makes
over 370 HP.  The launches are quite spectacular yet I?m turning 2800 RPM
at 70.

My other Tiger has a 3.31:1 gear set and a standard close ratio Toploader.
The engine is a very free-spinning 289 tha doesnt mind turning 3500 at 70,
that?s still half of redline on this build. This car is a real treat on
tight twisty roads. The Hurst shifter is a great option.

To each his own.

Bugz

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 9:22 AM Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Stock Tigers came with a Salisbury rearend. Salisbury is the British
> subsidiary of Dana/Spicer Corp. These British units came in Sunbeam Tigers,
> Jag XKEs, AC Cobras and TVR Griffiths, and used 7/16" ring gear bolts and a
> 10 spline (coarse) pinion gear. The factory offered other LAT ratios of
> 3.07, 3.31, 3.54 and 3.73 for those units.
>
> The American version of the Dana 44 rearend uses 3/8" ring gear bolts and
> a 26 spline (fine) pinion gear. Most Tiger owners in the USA, who have
> upgrade to a positraction unit (limited-slip) and changed their rearend
> ratio to something other than the factory 2.88, have installed the American
> version with the 3/8" ring gear bolts and switch over to the fine spline
> input flange.
>
> If* y*ou changed back to 2.88s, you would have to find an original
> Salisbury posi unit (rare) or drill out an American unit for the 7/16" ting
> gear bolts and get a 10 spline input flange.
>
> In the 1980s Dana made Dane 44 2.72 rearend gears for Jeep Wagoneers,
> Cherokees, Grand Cherokees and C3 Corvettes. The 2.72 gears have 3/6" ring
> gear bolts and a fine spline pinion, and will bolt into any Tiger rearend
> that has the American differential.
>
> Since I sold you the posi unit in your car (2009), this is what I
> recommend. The 2.72 gears will bolt right up to your posi unit and you
> can use your existing fine spline pinion gear flange. Changing from 3.07s
> to 2.72s will give you a ~14% drop in rpms in 4th gear, ~300 rpms.
> However, your 1st gear will be taller, too, so do NOT run 2.72 gears with a
> close ratio transmission or you'll burn up your clutch in no time. 2.88
> gears are bad enough with a close ratio in 1st gear, so 2.72s will be worse.
>
> My other recommendation is to convert to a wide ratio transmission and install
> a 2.90 1st gear (from Dan William's Toploaders). This gives you a fabulous
> hole shot, while not impacting your 4th gear highway cruising. I have
> helped a bunch of Tiger owners convert to this setup and they all love it.
> It is the best of both worlds, short of a 5 speed, but at a fraction of the
> cost.
>
> Gary
>
>
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From randya at pacbell.net  Tue Nov 19 11:39:51 2019
From: randya at pacbell.net (Randall Antosiak)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 18:39:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach
In-Reply-To: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACQC2nUL3ddsR6pPALWgLbhPrDqZYq+kMdqeyKtrc6SgmQdm-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <468808391.3380118.1574188791765@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have a stock tach with a Petronix 1, no additional electronics, and the tach works great.? There is one simple trick to get this combo to work: you take the loop out of that wire connected to the back of the tach.? ?That's it.? Hard to believe that it is so simple.??
If you try this and it doesn't work, what could go wrong:1) Tach needs rebuilding.? I had mine rebuilt at Palo Alto Speedo.? I think it was about $250.2) You are missing a part.? You need all the original parts, consisting of the plastic wire surround, metal frame, and thumb screw.3) You have the direction of the wire reversed.? This is easy to screw up.? The current flow direction has to be the same as the original.


    On Friday, November 15, 2019, 11:59:09 AM PST, Lance Beauchamp via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 I'm tired of my tach not working with my petronic ign, any thoughts before I go back to points? ?? ? ? Beau_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/randya at pacbell.net


  
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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 20 14:20:16 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 15:20:16 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
Message-ID: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>

Hey,

I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.
When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires
up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run
position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power
when the key is in the start position.

I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the
solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should
always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this
correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the
start position.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Joe Brown
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From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 20 14:31:18 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:31:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EB9D4A5C-DDEC-410E-9298-F59D4D84A3BB@sbcglobal.net>

The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hey,
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> 
> 


From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 20 14:31:18 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:31:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EB9D4A5C-DDEC-410E-9298-F59D4D84A3BB@sbcglobal.net>

The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hey,
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> 
> 


From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Nov 20 14:36:34 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:36:34 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701d59fea$9815d930$c8418b90$@bluefrog.com>

Joe

                NO ? White / blue wire is the start position only ? feeds 12v to the coil ? no voltage when released

 

White wire from ignition switch #2 post feeds through the Tach to the ballast resistor to the coil ? this is the run voltage.

 

Hope that helps

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tigers
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 4:20 PM
To: Tigers Den <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

Hey,

 

I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 

 

I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks,

Joe Brown

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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 20 15:29:24 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:29:24 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <EB9D4A5C-DDEC-410E-9298-F59D4D84A3BB@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAKb_wf=C_sV_-1XsashpH7V9t224ZPbLmcF-uE=_6yF2nS4hSw@mail.gmail.com>
 <EB9D4A5C-DDEC-410E-9298-F59D4D84A3BB@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have
me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire
that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into
the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was
rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out
and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new
wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to
that?

Thanks,
Joe Brown

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the
> starter is cranking.
> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and
> the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor.
> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to
> the ballast resistor.
> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor
> and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor.
> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The
> ballast resistor.
>
> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
> Or 203-264-8301 home
>
> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > Hey,
> >
> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a
> question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over
> and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the
> run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting
> power when the key is in the start position.
> >
> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from
> the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there
> should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is
> this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the
> start position.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Joe Brown
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> >
> >
>
>
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From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 20 15:45:50 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 17:45:50 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37A33818-982B-450F-95AB-7EAD55FF35BC@sbcglobal.net>

Joe
I?m pretty familiar with wiring but in this case I hesitate to recommend how to change wiring without havi
G a partial schematic. 
Might you have a schematic or a photo of the back of the Tach?
Coincidentally, Peter Bayer lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can call him directly if I were able to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wiring. 
Then, after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation. 
If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact me directly at fast427 at sbcglobal.net
Don 

From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> 
>> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
>> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
>> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
>> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
>> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 
>> 
>> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>> Or 203-264-8301 home
>> 
>> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > 
>> > ?
>> > Hey,
>> > 
>> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
>> > 
>> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
>> > 
>> > Any ideas?
>> > 
>> > Thanks,
>> > Joe Brown
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > 
>> > tigers at autox.team.net
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>> > 
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>> > 
>> > 
>> 
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From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 20 15:45:50 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 17:45:50 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <37A33818-982B-450F-95AB-7EAD55FF35BC@sbcglobal.net>

Joe
I?m pretty familiar with wiring but in this case I hesitate to recommend how to change wiring without havi
G a partial schematic. 
Might you have a schematic or a photo of the back of the Tach?
Coincidentally, Peter Bayer lens Nisongers and is a good friend so I can call him directly if I were able to see even a hand sketch of your relevant wiring. 
Then, after a call to Peter. Ayer I might be able to offer a recommendation. 
If it bothers the group to see all these emails you can contact me directly at fast427 at sbcglobal.net
Don 

From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 5:29 PM, Joe Brown <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> 
>> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
>> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
>> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
>> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
>> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 
>> 
>> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>> Or 203-264-8301 home
>> 
>> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > 
>> > ?
>> > Hey,
>> > 
>> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
>> > 
>> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
>> > 
>> > Any ideas?
>> > 
>> > Thanks,
>> > Joe Brown
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > 
>> > tigers at autox.team.net
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>> > 
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>> > 
>> > 
>> 
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Wed Nov 20 19:22:28 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 18:22:28 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BD18BF6F-E1D8-432B-8EE5-3D99601197F1@comcast.net>

The Signal wire should probably wire to
the points or low side of the coil.
The white wire should not end at the tach
but would do a one loop through the coil
pickup on the back of the stock tach and
then run to the ballast.
You do need 12v to the back of the tach
spade terminal and a ground.
Gary

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> 
>> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
>> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
>> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
>> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
>> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 
>> 
>> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>> Or 203-264-8301 home
>> 
>> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> > 
>> > ?
>> > Hey,
>> > 
>> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
>> > 
>> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
>> > 
>> > Any ideas?
>> > 
>> > Thanks,
>> > Joe Brown
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > 
>> > tigers at autox.team.net
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>> > 
>> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>> > 
>> > 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From tsmit at shaw.ca  Wed Nov 20 21:49:01 2019
From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:49:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <BD18BF6F-E1D8-432B-8EE5-3D99601197F1@comcast.net>
References: <CAKb_wfm=2KfZA0COumLwBC+dJTxO0v6v2G9A1HJEGO8mFaw-mA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BD18BF6F-E1D8-432B-8EE5-3D99601197F1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1648024631.651282170.1574311741536.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>

remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram. 
[ http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg | http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg ] 

So, with respect to that drawing: 
- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position. 
- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge). 
- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up. 
- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running. 
- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive. 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch. 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ). 


Good luck, 
Theo 

From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> 
To: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com> 
Cc: "tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid 

The Signal wire should probably wire to 
the points or low side of the coil. 
The white wire should not end at the tach 
but would do a one loop through the coil 
pickup on the back of the stock tach and 
then run to the ballast. 
You do need 12v to the back of the tach 
spade terminal and a ground. 
Gary 

Sent from my iPhone 



On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote: 





BQ_BEGIN

Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies. They have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach. My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics. I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor. So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that? 
Thanks, 
Joe Brown 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla < [ mailto:fast427 at sbcglobal.net | fast427 at sbcglobal.net ] > wrote: 

BQ_BEGIN
The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427 
Or 203-264-8301 home 

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers < [ mailto:tigers at autox.team.net | tigers at autox.team.net ] > wrote: 
> 
> 
> Hey, 
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question. When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up. But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies. It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram. The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position. Is this correct? I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> Any ideas? 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Joe Brown 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> [ mailto:tigers at autox.team.net | tigers at autox.team.net ] 
> 
> Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] 
> Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers | http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers ] [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] 
> 
> Unsubscribe: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net ] 
> 
> 


BQ_END

_______________________________________________ 

tigers at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net 



BQ_END


_______________________________________________ 

tigers at autox.team.net 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 21 08:09:26 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 10:09:26 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
References: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>

Gary and Friends:

 I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger Corporation and who modifies the tachs.

Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.

The summary is:
Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast resistor
Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped with the Pertronix system.
 

I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.

 

Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.

I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instructions that all will be good.

Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600

Please let me know how it goes. 

 

 

Don Antilla 

Southbury, CT

203-264-8301 Home

203-592-8427 Cell

 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

 

So, with respect to that drawing:

- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.

- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).

- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.

- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running.

- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.

 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.

 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).

 

 

Good luck,

Theo

From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

The Signal wire should probably wire to

the points or low side of the coil.

The white wire should not end at the tach

but would do a one loop through the coil

pickup on the back of the stock tach and

then run to the ballast.

You do need 12v to the back of the tach

spade terminal and a ground.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  

Thanks,

Joe Brown

 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> 
> 

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net



_______________________________________________

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From: "Peter Bayer" <info at nisonger.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 09:57:10 -0500
Size: 465342
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From fast427 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 21 08:09:26 2019
From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald Antilla)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 10:09:26 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
References: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>

Gary and Friends:

 I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger Corporation and who modifies the tachs.

Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.

The summary is:
Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast resistor
Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped with the Pertronix system.
 

I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.

 

Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.

I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instructions that all will be good.

Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600

Please let me know how it goes. 

 

 

Don Antilla 

Southbury, CT

203-264-8301 Home

203-592-8427 Cell

 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

 

So, with respect to that drawing:

- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.

- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).

- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.

- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running.

- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.

 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.

 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).

 

 

Good luck,

Theo

From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

The Signal wire should probably wire to

the points or low side of the coil.

The white wire should not end at the tach

but would do a one loop through the coil

pickup on the back of the stock tach and

then run to the ballast.

You do need 12v to the back of the tach

spade terminal and a ground.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  

Thanks,

Joe Brown

 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

>From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
Or 203-264-8301 home

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> 
> 

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

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From: "Peter Bayer" <info at nisonger.com>
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 09:57:10 -0500
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Thu Nov 21 08:45:05 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 07:45:05 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>
References: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <acd218fe-24e6-81dd-9c01-71f56c743262@comcast.net>

Uh, I think some of that is wrong info.. very confusing to me anyway.

Leave the loop in the stock white wire(or straighten it out) but do NOT 
hook it back to the new tach.
That wire goes directly from the ignition switch to the top of the 
ballast resistor, needs NO connection
to your new tach.

Your new white wire with spade needs an extension wire going to the low 
(negative) side of the
coil where the wire goes to the points (Pertronix).

The +12 green wire needs to plug to the original spade on the back of 
the tach.
HTH,
Gary W.


On 11/21/2019 7:09 AM, Donald Antilla wrote:
>
> Gary and Friends:
>
> I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger 
> Corporation and who modifies the tachs.
>
> Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize 
> in words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.
>
> The summary is:
>
>   * Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor
>     disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the
>     ballast resistor
>   * Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated
>     tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been
>     equipped with the Pertronix system.
>
> I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.
>
> Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to 
> receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.
>
> I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached 
> instructions that all will be good.
>
> Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600
>
> Please let me know how it goes.
>
> /Don Antilla /
>
> /Southbury, CT/
>
> /203-264-8301 Home/
>
> /203-592-8427 Cell/
>
> *From: *Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit 
> via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Reply-To: *Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca>
> *Date: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
> *To: *Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
> remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources 
> it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good 
> re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.
>
> http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg
>
> So, with respect to that drawing:
>
> - Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back 
> of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is 
> energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.
>
> - Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires 
> that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge 
> to gauge to gauge).
>
> - The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped 
> through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is 
> mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger 
> rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their 
> white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the 
> tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.
>
> - That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast 
> resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into 
> the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil 
> through the ballast resistor when the car is running.
>
> - The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor 
> to the coil positive.
>
> It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged 
> into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. 
> If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and 
> plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.
>
> If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try 
> looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite 
> direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then 
> abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, 
> that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil 
> negative terminal ( where the points connect ).
>
> Good luck,
>
> Theo
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From: *"tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> *To: *"Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *"tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
> The Signal wire should probably wire to
>
> the points or low side of the coil.
>
> The white wire should not end at the tach
>
> but would do a one loop through the coil
>
> pickup on the back of the stock tach and
>
> then run to the ballast.
>
> You do need 12v to the back of the tach
>
> spade terminal and a ground.
>
> Gary
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>     On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers
>     <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.?
>     They have me on the right track now. In my new wiring harness I
>     have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach
>     and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in")
>     on the back of the tach. My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has
>     the updated electronics.? I ohmed that wire out and it is the one
>     that goes to the ballast resistor.? So should I run a new wire
>     from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast
>     wire to that?
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Joe Brown
>
>     On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla
>     <fast427 at sbcglobal.net <mailto:fast427 at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>
>         The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil
>         while the starter is cranking.
>         As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is
>         disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast
>         resistor.
>         It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or
>         broken wiring to the ballast resistor.
>         Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the
>         resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad
>         resistor.
>         And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts
>         INTO. The ballast resistor.
>
>         From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
>         Or 203-264-8301 home
>
>         > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers
>         <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>         >
>         >
>         > Hey,
>         >
>         > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I
>         have a question.? When I turn the key to the start position
>         the engine turns over and fires up.? But as soon as I let go
>         of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.? It
>         seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the
>         key is in the start position.
>         >
>         > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.? The white/blue
>         wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to
>         imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the
>         key is in the run position.? Is this correct?? I'm only
>         getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start
>         position.
>         >
>         > Any ideas?
>         >
>         > Thanks,
>         > Joe Brown
>         > _______________________________________________
>         >
>         > tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>         >
>         > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>         >
>         > Unsubscribe:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>         >
>         >
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca
>
> _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive 
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>

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From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Nov 21 09:35:45 2019
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Tom Witt)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 08:35:45 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
References: <8F620FEE05D3430BA4359BAC62A53688.ref@user1PC>
Message-ID: <8F620FEE05D3430BA4359BAC62A53688@user1PC>

I?m not sure if this will be helpful to solving anyone?s tach problems..., but it may be helpful in understanding how the Pertronix works (and that might help solve a tach problem?). Because the Pertronix is an ?electronic? ignition I originally assumed it worked by sending  pulsed 12V + to the coil to spark the plugs. However, that is not the case. It simply does electronically what points do mechanically. It temporarily grounds the negative side of the coil and the electronic ?make and break? is what triggers the coil to fire.

Where people run into trouble is they will often power the 12V + the Pertronix needs from the diminishing side of the resistor (which then isn?t 12V).  This results in low/fluctuating power. While this is a ?Pertronix? connection issue, it might also be the cause of some tach problems as well.  The simple work around is to connect a 12V + wire directly from the ignition run position to the red wire on the Pertronix. I also see merit in what is stated below about running a dedicated wire between the negative side of the coil and the tach.

And, if you have the frustrating Ignitor I, as I do, I put a connector in that decicated 12V+ wire so when I have cause to keep the ignition on (for say,... testing an electric fuel pump) I can disconnect the Ignitor I so it doesn?t fry in that 30 second window of survival. I?m not sure if this will help or confuse but as best I was able with the symbols available on a keyboard the circuit is illustrated.

                                                             /........................................I                                    
- Battery 12V+.......... Ignition Switch (start).......... Resistor........ + Coil ?......... Pertronix............ Ground
I               12V +...................................................................................................I                           I                                                                                    
I.......................................................................................................................................................I

From: Donald Antilla via Tigers 
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 7:09 AM
To: Theo Smit ; Gary 
Cc: tigers 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

Gary and Friends:

I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger Corporation and who modifies the tachs.

Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.

The summary is:

  a.. Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast resistor 
  b.. Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped with the Pertronix system.
 

I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.

 

Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.

I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instructions that all will be good.

Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600

Please let me know how it goes. 

 

 

Don Antilla 

Southbury, CT

203-264-8301 Home

203-592-8427 Cell

 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

 

So, with respect to that drawing:

- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.

- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).

- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.

- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running.

- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.

 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.

 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).

 

 

Good luck,

Theo


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

The Signal wire should probably wire to

the points or low side of the coil.

The white wire should not end at the tach

but would do a one loop through the coil

pickup on the back of the stock tach and

then run to the ballast.

You do need 12v to the back of the tach

spade terminal and a ground.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone

 

  On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

  Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  

  Thanks,

  Joe Brown

   

  On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
    As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
    It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
    Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
    And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

    From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
    Or 203-264-8301 home

    > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
    > 
    > 
    > Hey,
    > 
    > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
    > 
    > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
    > 
    > Any ideas?
    > 
    > Thanks,
    > Joe Brown
    > _______________________________________________
    > 
    > tigers at autox.team.net
    > 
    > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
    > 
    > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
    > 
    > 

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From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Nov 21 09:47:04 2019
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Tom Witt)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 08:47:04 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <8F620FEE05D3430BA4359BAC62A53688@user1PC>
References: <8F620FEE05D3430BA4359BAC62A53688.ref@user1PC>
 <8F620FEE05D3430BA4359BAC62A53688@user1PC>
Message-ID: <D5348FCABFB24C7A8E769497EB989DFA@user1PC>

And in the ?just after I sent this? category I noticed that the third line of my illustration should have has the 12V for the Pertronix coming from the ignition switch, not the battery.

                                                             /........................................I                                    
- Battery 12V+.......... Ignition Switch (start).......... Resistor........ + Coil ?......... Pertronix............ Ground
I                                 12V +................................................................................I                           I                                                                                    
I......................................................................................................................................................I

From: Tom Witt via Tigers 
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 8:35 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

I?m not sure if this will be helpful to solving anyone?s tach problems..., but it may be helpful in understanding how the Pertronix works (and that might help solve a tach problem?). Because the Pertronix is an ?electronic? ignition I originally assumed it worked by sending  pulsed 12V + to the coil to spark the plugs. However, that is not the case. It simply does electronically what points do mechanically. It temporarily grounds the negative side of the coil and the electronic ?make and break? is what triggers the coil to fire.

Where people run into trouble is they will often power the 12V + the Pertronix needs from the diminishing side of the resistor (which then isn?t 12V).  This results in low/fluctuating power. While this is a ?Pertronix? connection issue, it might also be the cause of some tach problems as well.  The simple work around is to connect a 12V + wire directly from the ignition run position to the red wire on the Pertronix. I also see merit in what is stated below about running a dedicated wire between the negative side of the coil and the tach.

And, if you have the frustrating Ignitor I, as I do, I put a connector in that decicated 12V+ wire so when I have cause to keep the ignition on (for say,... testing an electric fuel pump) I can disconnect the Ignitor I so it doesn?t fry in that 30 second window of survival. I?m not sure if this will help or confuse but as best I was able with the symbols available on a keyboard the circuit is illustrated.

                                                             /........................................I                                    
- Battery 12V+.......... Ignition Switch (start).......... Resistor........ + Coil ?......... Pertronix............ Ground
I               12V +..................................................................................................I                           I                                                                                    
I.....................................................................................................................................................I

From: Donald Antilla via Tigers 
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 7:09 AM
To: Theo Smit ; Gary 
Cc: tigers 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

Gary and Friends:

I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger Corporation and who modifies the tachs.

Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.

The summary is:

  a.. Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast resistor 
  b.. Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped with the Pertronix system.
 

I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.

 

Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.

I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instructions that all will be good.

Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600

Please let me know how it goes. 

 

 

Don Antilla 

Southbury, CT

203-264-8301 Home

203-592-8427 Cell

 

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.

http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

 

So, with respect to that drawing:

- Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only when the ignition is on or in the start position.

- Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge to gauge).

- The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach, if they changed the way it can be wired up.

- That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast resistor when the car is running.

- The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to the coil positive.

 

It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so, unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.

 

If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative terminal ( where the points connect ).

 

 

Good luck,

Theo


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
To: "Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid

 

The Signal wire should probably wire to

the points or low side of the coil.

The white wire should not end at the tach

but would do a one loop through the coil

pickup on the back of the stock tach and

then run to the ballast.

You do need 12v to the back of the tach

spade terminal and a ground.

Gary

Sent from my iPhone

 

  On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

  Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast wire to that?  

  Thanks,

  Joe Brown

   

  On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the starter is cranking. 
    As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor. 
    It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to the ballast resistor. 
    Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor. 
    And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The ballast resistor. 

    From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
    Or 203-264-8301 home

    > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
    > 
    > 
    > Hey,
    > 
    > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting power when the key is in the start position. 
    > 
    > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the start position.  
    > 
    > Any ideas?
    > 
    > Thanks,
    > Joe Brown
    > _______________________________________________
    > 
    > tigers at autox.team.net
    > 
    > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
    > 
    > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
    > 
    > 

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From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 21 15:27:19 2019
From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 16:27:19 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <acd218fe-24e6-81dd-9c01-71f56c743262@comcast.net>
References: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>
 <acd218fe-24e6-81dd-9c01-71f56c743262@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAKb_wfkx_uMYs1mJaTGtvZTYSNTp02O2HYRQWkvZG4c3iD+00g@mail.gmail.com>

After a lot of feedback from you guys and the information that Don got from
Nisonger I was able to get everything wired up correctly today.
1. White wire that originally went to the tach is now hooked to terminal #2
on the ignition switch and goes to the ballast resistor.
2. I ran a new wire from the points side of the coil to the signal input on
the tach.
3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wired up wrong.  The red wire
has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery side of the coil (which is
only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).

So I got that all straightened out, poured some gas into the carb and
cranked it up.  Now I need to fix the squealing belt.  I think it is
slipping on the alternator pulley because that pulley and the belt got
really hot.  I'll let it cool down and mess with it later.

I only have about a thousand more things to do before I can drive this
thing out of the garage.

Thanks for all of the help.

Joe

On Thu, Nov 21, 2019, 9:45 AM Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Uh, I think some of that is wrong info.. very confusing to me anyway.
>
> Leave the loop in the stock white wire(or straighten it out) but do NOT
> hook it back to the new tach.
> That wire goes directly from the ignition switch to the top of the ballast
> resistor, needs NO connection
> to your new tach.
>
> Your new white wire with spade needs an extension wire going to the low
> (negative) side of the
> coil where the wire goes to the points (Pertronix).
>
> The +12 green wire needs to plug to the original spade on the back of the
> tach.
> HTH,
> Gary W.
>
>
> On 11/21/2019 7:09 AM, Donald Antilla wrote:
>
> Gary and Friends:
>
> I just had a good discussion with Peter Bayer who owns Nisonger
> Corporation and who modifies the tachs.
>
> Peter explained the entire circuitry to me and I will only summarize in
> words, then please view the attached file from Nisonger.
>
> The summary is:
>
>    - Keep the loop on the back of the tach intact. Do NOT remove nor
>    disconnect. This SHOULD therefore provide 12 volt power to the ballast
>    resistor
>    - Route a wire from the female spade terminal at back of the updated
>    tach TO the negative side of the ignition coil which has been equipped with
>    the Pertronix system.
>
>
>
> I?ve attached the instructions from Nisonger for you to follow.
>
>
>
> Peter Bayer is a smart and helpful person and is quite willing to receive
> a call from Gary and walk Gary through the instructions.
>
> I think once Gary talks with Peter while reading the attached instructions
> that all will be good.
>
> Peter Bayer?s number is (914) 381-3600
>
> Please let me know how it goes.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Don Antilla *
>
> *Southbury, CT*
>
> *203-264-8301 Home*
>
> *203-592-8427 Cell*
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Theo Smit via Tigers
> <tigers at autox.team.net> <tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Reply-To: *Theo Smit <tsmit at shaw.ca> <tsmit at shaw.ca>
> *Date: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 11:49 PM
> *To: *Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net> <garywinblad at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *tigers <Tigers at autox.team.net> <Tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
>
>
> remember that TigersUnited.com is not dead, and among other resources it
> has a complete scan of the Tiger Workshop Manual, including good
> re-digitized drawings of the wiring diagram.
>
> http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg
>
>
>
> So, with respect to that drawing:
>
> - Your tach should be powered through the spade connector on the back of
> the tach. That should be connected to a green wire that is energized only
> when the ignition is on or in the start position.
>
> - Your tach should be grounded through the black daisy-chain wires that
> need to be connected to the dash frame somewhere (not just gauge to gauge
> to gauge).
>
> - The OEM wiring has the coil power run through a white wire, looped
> through the transformer U-shaped metal piece and plastic frame that is
> mounted on the back of the tach. It kind of sounds like the Nissonger
> rebuild gave you an alternate means of sensing the ignition with their
> white "signal in" line. You should have got a wiring diagram with the tach,
> if they changed the way it can be wired up.
>
> - That OEM white wire needs to connect to one end of the ballast resistor
> as shown in the wiring diagram (and the other end plugs into the ignition
> switch, not the tach). It supplies power to the coil through the ballast
> resistor when the car is running.
>
> - The white/blue wire runs from the solenoid to the ballast resistor to
> the coil positive.
>
>
>
> It sounds like you need to make sure that the white wire you plugged into
> the tach, is connected to the ballast resistor at the other end. If so,
> unplug the tach end, loop it through the transformer block, and plug it
> into the #2 terminal on the ignition switch.
>
>
>
> If the tach works properly, then you're good. If it does not, then try
> looping the white wire through the transformer block in the opposite
> direction. If that still fails (but the engine runs properly), then abandon
> the transformer and use Nissonger's signal wire. As Gary says, that wire
> should be connected using a new extension wire to the coil negative
> terminal ( where the points connect ).
>
>
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Theo
> ------------------------------
>
> *From: *"tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net> <tigers at autox.team.net>
> *To: *"Joe Brown" <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com> <jbbrown1980 at gmail.com>
> *Cc: *"tigers" <Tigers at autox.team.net> <Tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, November 20, 2019 7:22:28 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>
>
>
> The Signal wire should probably wire to
>
> the points or low side of the coil.
>
> The white wire should not end at the tach
>
> but would do a one loop through the coil
>
> pickup on the back of the stock tach and
>
> then run to the ballast.
>
> You do need 12v to the back of the tach
>
> spade terminal and a ground.
>
> Gary
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Nov 20, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
> <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks to Donald Antilla and Ron Fraser for their quick replies.  They
> have me on the right track now.  In my new wiring harness I have one white
> wire that comes out of the harness behind the tach and I assumed it plugged
> into the white wire (labeled "signal in") on the back of the tach.  My tach
> was rebuilt by Nisonger and has the updated electronics.  I ohmed that wire
> out and it is the one that goes to the ballast resistor.  So should I run a
> new wire from the ignition switch to the tach and piggyback the ballast
> wire to that?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe Brown
>
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM Donald Antilla <fast427 at sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> The starter solenoid temporarily supplies 12 volts to the. Oil while the
> starter is cranking.
> As soon as you release the key that temporary 12 volts is disconnected and
> the power to the coil is via the ballast resistor.
> It sounds like you either have a bad ballast resistor or broken wiring to
> the ballast resistor.
> Temporarily add an alligator jumper across the two tabs on the resistor
> and see if it starts. If it does start you have a bad resistor.
> And if that does not work, start looking for lack of 12 volts INTO. The
> ballast resistor.
>
> From Don's iPhone 203-592-8427
> Or 203-264-8301 home
>
> > On Nov 20, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey,
> >
> > I'm trying to fire up my engine for the first time and I have a
> question.  When I turn the key to the start position the engine turns over
> and fires up.  But as soon as I let go of the key so that it returns to the
> run position it dies.  It seems like the ignition system is only getting
> power when the key is in the start position.
> >
> > I'm a little confused by the wiring diagram.  The white/blue wire from
> the solenoid goes to the coil and this would seem to imply that there
> should always be 12V on this wire when the key is in the run position.  Is
> this correct?  I'm only getting the 12V on this line when the key is in the
> start position.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Joe Brown
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > tigers at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca
>
> _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fast427 at sbcglobal.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
>
>
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Thu Nov 21 17:56:48 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 16:56:48 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <CAKb_wfkx_uMYs1mJaTGtvZTYSNTp02O2HYRQWkvZG4c3iD+00g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <0AC14875-9C89-45E9-80A0-3525DB2F9D98@sbcglobal.net>
 <acd218fe-24e6-81dd-9c01-71f56c743262@comcast.net>
 <CAKb_wfkx_uMYs1mJaTGtvZTYSNTp02O2HYRQWkvZG4c3iD+00g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4b87a0b7-1982-3c2f-369f-52ece81f2e9c@comcast.net>

Pertronix may have changed their instructions but..
I bought one of the earliest Pertronix "points replacement" in about 1992.
Instructions then said the red wire goes to the coil - (low side of 
ballast).

I just looked at my car, it IS wired that way as it has been without any 
problem since about 1992.
Stock (and Theo's replacement electronics) tach have always worked 
perfectly and reliably.

So much better than points!?? I bet most new kids now a days don't have 
a clue what those are!!
Gary W.


On 11/21/2019 2:27 PM, Joe Brown wrote:
> 3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wired up wrong.? The red 
> wire has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery side of the coil 
> (which is only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).
>


From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Nov 21 18:38:43 2019
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Tom Witt)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 17:38:43 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
References: <C7193056B4C94A35955218514D85BE9C.ref@user1PC>
Message-ID: <C7193056B4C94A35955218514D85BE9C@user1PC>

If you are NOT running the Pertronix coil then you need to continue to use resistor associated with the coil you have. They are considered a match pair.  What one needs to be careful about is what side of the resistor the connection is made. As illustrated below the red wire from the Ignitor goes BEFORE the resistor and gets the full 12 volts. 

I realize some have been able to go to the low side of the resistor and still get the system to work.  I recall the rated working voltage of the Pertronix is 8 or 9 volts up to 12 volts and I presume they are able to ?get by? wired that way.  But from what I have seen on other sites that is not always the case.  I believe that IF you are using the Pertronix coil it is  true 12 volt coil with no external resistor. In that case the + side of the coil would not be an issue for the red wire connection point as it is getting the full 12 volts. Hence why some Pertronix instructions say to connect to the coil + terminal.

FWIW, I have the Ignitor I on a SBC using the original coil. The ignition switch (run position) feeds the original harness, through the resistor, to the coil.  I have the red Pertronix wire lengthened and connected (also) to the ?run? side of the ignition switch as a dedicated connection.  I have been running it this way for 7+ years and have an ?old school? Sun tach that does not exhibit issues.



-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary via Tigers 
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 4:56 PM 
To: Joe Brown 
Cc: Tiger Group 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid 

Pertronix may have changed their instructions but..
I bought one of the earliest Pertronix "points replacement" in about 1992.
Instructions then said the red wire goes to the coil - (low side of 
ballast).

I just looked at my car, it IS wired that way as it has been without any 
problem since about 1992.
Stock (and Theo's replacement electronics) tach have always worked 
perfectly and reliably.

So much better than points!   I bet most new kids now a days don't have 
a clue what those are!!
Gary W.


On 11/21/2019 2:27 PM, Joe Brown wrote:
> 3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wired up wrong.  The red 
> wire has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery side of the coil 
> (which is only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).
>

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Thu Nov 21 19:19:46 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 18:19:46 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
In-Reply-To: <C7193056B4C94A35955218514D85BE9C@user1PC>
References: <C7193056B4C94A35955218514D85BE9C@user1PC>
Message-ID: <32B55E84-6413-495E-8BD7-A14961D19225@comcast.net>

That is true for the Ignitor 2 module,
I have a Pertronix 1.  OP has?
Gary W.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 21, 2019, at 5:39 PM, Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> If you are NOT running the Pertronix coil then you need to continue to use resistor associated with the coil you have. They are considered a match pair.  What one needs to be careful about is what side of the resistor the connection is made. As illustrated below the red wire from the Ignitor goes BEFORE the resistor and gets the full 12 volts.
>  
> I realize some have been able to go to the low side of the resistor and still get the system to work.  I recall the rated working voltage of the Pertronix is 8 or 9 volts up to 12 volts and I presume they are able to ?get by? wired that way.  But from what I have seen on other sites that is not always the case.  I believe that IF you are using the Pertronix coil it is  true 12 volt coil with no external resistor. In that case the + side of the coil would not be an issue for the red wire connection point as it is getting the full 12 volts. Hence why some Pertronix instructions say to connect to the coil + terminal.
>  
> FWIW, I have the Ignitor I on a SBC using the original coil. The ignition switch (run position) feeds the original harness, through the resistor, to the coil.  I have the red Pertronix wire lengthened and connected (also) to the ?run? side of the ignition switch as a dedicated connection.  I have been running it this way for 7+ years and have an ?old school? Sun tach that does not exhibit issues.
>  
> <image[1].png>
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary via Tigers
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 4:56 PM
> To: Joe Brown
> Cc: Tiger Group
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter Solenoid
>  
> Pertronix may have changed their instructions but..
> I bought one of the earliest Pertronix "points replacement" in about 1992.
> Instructions then said the red wire goes to the coil - (low side of
> ballast).
>  
> I just looked at my car, it IS wired that way as it has been without any
> problem since about 1992.
> Stock (and Theo's replacement electronics) tach have always worked
> perfectly and reliably.
>  
> So much better than points!   I bet most new kids now a days don't have
> a clue what those are!!
> Gary W.
>  
>  
> On 11/21/2019 2:27 PM, Joe Brown wrote:
> > 3. I also discovered that I had the Pertronix wired up wrong.  The red
> > wire has to go to 12V and I had it on the battery side of the coil
> > (which is only 7 or 8 volts when the engine is running).
> >
>  
> _______________________________________________
>  
> tigers at autox.team.net
>  
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>  
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov 22 07:50:05 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 06:50:05 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Sad News
Message-ID: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>


Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul 
Reisentz
has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully 
with his
beloved wife, Julie by his side.
Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
of Tigers.? His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as 
well as
they look.
Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.? Most all will 
be available
in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we 
have.? In the
meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts


From h2otor at aol.com  Fri Nov 22 08:58:58 2019
From: h2otor at aol.com (John Watertor)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 15:58:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Side molding fastners
References: <575967244.5135090.1574438338215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <575967244.5135090.1574438338215@mail.yahoo.com>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:23:39 -0800
From: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
To: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc:?Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
Message-ID: <1CC113DF-917D-4123-BE1A-B6E09A512F14 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

John,
The square head screws do not clamp, they
just do not in-snap!?? They let go of the
molding when you slide the molding.
Gary


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 14, 2019, at 5:11 PM, John Watertor via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> Davids photo's shows the side moulding rivets and fasteners I was talking about. Pictures RSCN1563.jpg shows the side moulding rivets and RSCN1567.jpg shows the square head clamping fasteners. Look for message
> at D or G at SBC on Nov 14.
> John Watertor
Are you sure the square headed fasteners don't clamp the chrome molding to the car body? On my Tiger the clamping fasteners were only on the front of the front molding, the rear of the rear molding and one on the door molding.?The square headed fastners also had a flat and lock washer on the clamp. If they were not used to clamp the molding why did they go to all the trouble to use the clamping fasteners when they could use the metal rivet?or the plastic fasteners?John Watertor
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From h2otor at aol.com  Fri Nov 22 09:19:39 2019
From: h2otor at aol.com (John Watertor)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 16:19:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
References: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>

RonThe brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips?


My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how to recreate them but I did.



Ron Fraseron

>From John WatertorThe brake vacuum hose I have has the two yellow strips which are 180 degrees apart on the hose. The yellow stripes was embossed?in the cloth wrapping on the hose. The yellow stripes was some kind of a rubber like material or rubber paint.?John Watertor

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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Nov 22 09:27:19 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 11:27:19 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
In-Reply-To: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001c01d5a151$b7a0f6a0$26e2e3e0$@bluefrog.com>

John

                Thank you for your reply

I wanted to make sure the brake booster hose I have was original with 2 yellow strips

Some hoses look like they only have 1 strip

 

I used Flat yellow Testor paint to recreate the 2 strips

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2019 11:20 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose

 

Ron 

The brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips? 

 

 

 

My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how to recreate them but I did.

 

 

 

Ron Fraseron

 

 

>From John Watertor

The brake vacuum hose I have has the two yellow strips which are 180 degrees apart on the hose. The yellow stripes was embossed 

in the cloth wrapping on the hose. The yellow stripes was some kind of a rubber like material or rubber paint. 

John Watertor

 

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov 22 09:28:35 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 08:28:35 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Side molding fastners
In-Reply-To: <575967244.5135090.1574438338215@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <575967244.5135090.1574438338215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <575967244.5135090.1574438338215@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <96097986-e7ce-70ed-57c1-7a38dc730cdc@comcast.net>

They hold the trim down so it can not come off without damage but...
If you slide the the trim horizontally, it will slide easily, ie: not 
clamped.
Look at the backside of the trim, there is a cut section near the end.? 
Slide it so that section
is over the square head and wa-la the trim comes off.? Trim is not 
clamped by the square pins.
So, the whole procedure is:
 ?un-snap trim at the rivet type pieces
 ?slide the trim to the backside opening over the square screw holders
 ?put trim piece aside
Gary W.



On 11/22/2019 7:58 AM, John Watertor via Tigers wrote:
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 18:23:39 -0800
> From: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net <mailto:garywinblad at comcast.net>>
> To: John Watertor <h2otor at aol.com <mailto:h2otor at aol.com>>
> Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:Tigers at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger side moulding fasteners more information
> Message-ID: <1CC113DF-917D-4123-BE1A-B6E09A512F14 at comcast.net 
> <mailto:1CC113DF-917D-4123-BE1A-B6E09A512F14 at comcast.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> John,
> The square head screws do not clamp, they
> just do not in-snap!?? They let go of the
> molding when you slide the molding.
> Gary
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 14, 2019, at 5:11 PM, John Watertor via Tigers 
> <tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > Davids photo's shows the side moulding rivets and fasteners I was 
> talking about. Pictures RSCN1563.jpg shows the side moulding rivets 
> and RSCN1567.jpg shows the square head clamping fasteners. Look for 
> message
> > at D or G at SBC on Nov 14.
> > John Watertor
>
> Are you sure the square headed fasteners don't clamp the chrome 
> molding to the car body? On my Tiger the clamping fasteners were only 
> on the front of the front molding, the rear of the rear molding and 
> one on the door molding.
> The square headed fastners also had a flat and lock washer on the 
> clamp. If they were not used to clamp the molding why did they go to 
> all the trouble to use the clamping fasteners when they could use the 
> metal rivet
> or the plastic fasteners?
> John Watertor
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov 22 09:35:52 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 08:35:52 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
In-Reply-To: <001c01d5a151$b7a0f6a0$26e2e3e0$@bluefrog.com>
References: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001c01d5a151$b7a0f6a0$26e2e3e0$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <7cae5f18-8ff7-3146-b9f8-98bea63c0675@comcast.net>

Testor (model) paint won't just flake off?
If so, that's good to know, I may try painting my new replacement hose..
I thought my original MK1 hose only had one yellow stripe?? Maybe two on
opposing sides?

BTW, years ago when I replaced my original hose, it was looking perfect but,
in back under the air cleaner it had gotten soft.
When it got real hot it collapsed and cut vacuum assist.? I had thought for
years that I had brake fade but it was just that hose!
Gary W.

On 11/22/2019 8:27 AM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
> John
>
> ??????????????? Thank you for your reply
>
> I wanted to make sure the brake booster hose I have was original with 
> 2 yellow strips
>
> Some hoses look like they only have 1 strip
>
> I used Flat yellow Testor paint to recreate the 2 strips
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> *From:* Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *John 
> Watertor via Tigers
> *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2019 11:20 AM
> *To:* tigers at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
>
> Ron
>
> The brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips?
>
> My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how to 
> recreate them but I did.
>
> Ron Fraseron
>
> From John Watertor
>
> The brake vacuum hose I have has the two yellow strips which are 180 
> degrees apart on the hose. The yellow stripes was embossed
>
> in the cloth wrapping on the hose. The yellow stripes was some kind of 
> a rubber like material or rubber paint.
>
> John Watertor
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>
>

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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Nov 22 09:53:04 2019
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 11:53:04 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
In-Reply-To: <7cae5f18-8ff7-3146-b9f8-98bea63c0675@comcast.net>
References: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001c01d5a151$b7a0f6a0$26e2e3e0$@bluefrog.com>
 <7cae5f18-8ff7-3146-b9f8-98bea63c0675@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003401d5a155$5107dea0$f3179be0$@bluefrog.com>

Gary

                Paint has not flaked off

I cleaned the hose with prep solvent

Put a rod inside the hose to keep it straight

Put tape 180 degrees apart and that left near correct size spacing for the stripes

Testor Flat yellow paint and I use an air brush to paint the strips

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net> 
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2019 11:36 AM
To: Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>; 'John Watertor' <h2otor at aol.com>
Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose

 

Testor (model) paint won't just flake off?
If so, that's good to know, I may try painting my new replacement hose..
I thought my original MK1 hose only had one yellow stripe?  Maybe two on
opposing sides?

BTW, years ago when I replaced my original hose, it was looking perfect but,
in back under the air cleaner it had gotten soft.
When it got real hot it collapsed and cut vacuum assist.  I had thought for 
years that I had brake fade but it was just that hose!
Gary W.

On 11/22/2019 8:27 AM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:

John

                Thank you for your reply

I wanted to make sure the brake booster hose I have was original with 2 yellow strips

Some hoses look like they only have 1 strip

 

I used Flat yellow Testor paint to recreate the 2 strips

 

 

Ron Fraser

 

From: Tigers  <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Watertor via Tigers
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2019 11:20 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose

 

Ron 

The brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips? 

 

 

 

My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how to recreate them but I did.

 

 

 

Ron Fraseron

 

 

>From John Watertor

The brake vacuum hose I have has the two yellow strips which are 180 degrees apart on the hose. The yellow stripes was embossed 

in the cloth wrapping on the hose. The yellow stripes was some kind of a rubber like material or rubber paint. 

John Watertor

 





_______________________________________________
 
tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net> 
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
 
 

 

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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Nov 22 10:07:46 2019
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 09:07:46 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
In-Reply-To: <003401d5a155$5107dea0$f3179be0$@bluefrog.com>
References: <324856049.5138006.1574439579070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <324856049.5138006.1574439579070@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001c01d5a151$b7a0f6a0$26e2e3e0$@bluefrog.com>
 <7cae5f18-8ff7-3146-b9f8-98bea63c0675@comcast.net>
 <003401d5a155$5107dea0$f3179be0$@bluefrog.com>
Message-ID: <2ecc9f99-c7dc-53b7-a8bf-b880a5a7704b@comcast.net>

Thanks Ron,
Excellent job, I'll think about doing that myself.
Gary W.


On 11/22/2019 8:53 AM, Ron Fraser wrote:
>
> Gary
>
> ??????????????? Paint has not flaked off
>
> I cleaned the hose with prep solvent
>
> Put a rod inside the hose to keep it straight
>
> Put tape 180 degrees apart and that left near correct size spacing for 
> the stripes
>
> Testor Flat yellow paint and I use an air brush to paint the strips
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> *From:* Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2019 11:36 AM
> *To:* Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>; 'John Watertor' <h2otor at aol.com>
> *Cc:* tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
>
> Testor (model) paint won't just flake off?
> If so, that's good to know, I may try painting my new replacement hose..
> I thought my original MK1 hose only had one yellow stripe? Maybe two on
> opposing sides?
>
> BTW, years ago when I replaced my original hose, it was looking 
> perfect but,
> in back under the air cleaner it had gotten soft.
> When it got real hot it collapsed and cut vacuum assist.? I had 
> thought for
> years that I had brake fade but it was just that hose!
> Gary W.
>
> On 11/22/2019 8:27 AM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote:
>
>     John
>
>     ??????????????? Thank you for your reply
>
>     I wanted to make sure the brake booster hose I have was original
>     with 2 yellow strips
>
>     Some hoses look like they only have 1 strip
>
>     I used Flat yellow Testor paint to recreate the 2 strips
>
>     Ron Fraser
>
>     *From:* Tigers <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *John
>     Watertor via Tigers
>     *Sent:* Friday, November 22, 2019 11:20 AM
>     *To:* tigers at autox.team.net <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Tigers] Rubber vacuum hose
>
>     Ron
>
>     The brake booster vacuum hose ? 1 or 2 yellow strips?
>
>     My hose had 2 yellow strips which took me a bit of thought on how
>     to recreate them but I did.
>
>     Ron Fraseron
>
>     From John Watertor
>
>     The brake vacuum hose I have has the two yellow strips which are
>     180 degrees apart on the hose. The yellow stripes was embossed
>
>     in the cloth wrapping on the hose. The yellow stripes was some
>     kind of a rubber like material or rubber paint.
>
>     John Watertor
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     tigers at autox.team.net  <mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
>

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From rollright at aol.com  Fri Nov 22 12:08:27 2019
From: rollright at aol.com (James Armstrong)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 19:08:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 321
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1574449202.20062.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1574449202.20062.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <62799826.4162232.1574449707831@mail.yahoo.com>

RE; issue 321
I got a two yellow striped rubber hose from some Mini parts supplier guy in England. Yellow was not painted on but in the rubber.
Got it within the last 10 years. I believe that hose was used on a number of Brit cars of the period.
Hope that helps.

Jim ArmstrongMk 1A382002083 LRXFECode 86TAC #....
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From rick at atmospherebuilders.com  Sun Nov 24 12:42:18 2019
From: rick at atmospherebuilders.com (rick at atmospherebuilders.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 14:42:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] door stays cushioning material
Message-ID: <020d01d5a2ff$4903be80$db0b3b80$@atmospherebuilders.com>

HI All,

In restoration of my Tiger, the door stays ( curved arm limiting door swing)
were removed and I noted that the cushioning material appears to be a
canvas-like cloth with a block coating. It has rotted and is falling apart.
I need something very similar or a good substitute and wondered if anyone
has dealt with this or has some ideas. Thanks.

Rick

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From rick at atmospherebuilders.com  Sun Nov 24 12:50:37 2019
From: rick at atmospherebuilders.com (rick at atmospherebuilders.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 14:50:37 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] hood hinges
Message-ID: <021f01d5a300$71fef740$55fce5c0$@atmospherebuilders.com>

HI,

I understand there is to be a left and right hood hinge. My car, an early 1A
( 1966 model assembled in 1965) seems to have been assembled with two
identical hinges. In looking at 2  Series 5 Alpines I have they are the
same.both identical hinges. I have a set of hinges from a wreck series 4 and
they have opposite offset bolt pattern where the two bolts reside. What
gives here? Since my car has some round corners and some square on hood,
trunk and doors the assumption is that they were grabbing any leftover parts
at the beginning of the series 1A that ultimately became square corner. I
wonder if the same applies to some hood hinges. Any ideas on this?

Rick

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From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 24 13:02:06 2019
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:02:06 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] hood hinges
In-Reply-To: <021f01d5a300$71fef740$55fce5c0$@atmospherebuilders.com>
References: <021f01d5a300$71fef740$55fce5c0$@atmospherebuilders.com>
Message-ID: <CAE3_YO-FxiaRcGaAoRQt88nNL6JXVV4kXciowqJ7bVKNf7yneg@mail.gmail.com>

My Mark 2 has identical bonnet hinges; the boot hinges are mirror images; 1
Rt., 1 L.

Tigers United has Tiger and Alpine parts lists on their site, you can check
the part numbers there.
www.tigersunited.com under "Rootes Resources."

Tom '67 Mark 2


On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 2:53 PM Richard Hyatt via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> HI,
>
> I understand there is to be a left and right hood hinge. My car, an early
> 1A ( 1966 model assembled in 1965) seems to have been assembled with two
> identical hinges. In looking at 2  Series 5 Alpines I have they are the
> same?both identical hinges. I have a set of hinges from a wreck series 4
> and they have opposite offset bolt pattern where the two bolts reside. What
> gives here? Since my car has some round corners and some square on hood,
> trunk and doors the assumption is that they were grabbing any leftover
> parts at the beginning of the series 1A that ultimately became square
> corner. I wonder if the same applies to some hood hinges. Any ideas on this?
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From jbsyv at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 24 13:40:35 2019
From: jbsyv at yahoo.com (Jim B)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 12:40:35 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Sad News
In-Reply-To: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>
References: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB@yahoo.com>

Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with him over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart goes out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.  His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.  Most all will be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we have.  In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
> 
> 


From jbsyv at yahoo.com  Sun Nov 24 13:40:35 2019
From: jbsyv at yahoo.com (Jim B)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 12:40:35 -0800
Subject: [Tigers] Sad News
In-Reply-To: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>
References: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB@yahoo.com>

Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with him over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart goes out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.  His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.  Most all will be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we have.  In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
> 
> 


From randya at pacbell.net  Sun Nov 24 23:21:43 2019
From: randya at pacbell.net (Randall Antosiak)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 06:21:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Sad News
In-Reply-To: <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB@yahoo.com>
References: <7a2f6e7a-baff-7d85-9040-398a4aeefc20@comcast.net>
 <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2134603308.6032004.1574662903876@mail.yahoo.com>

 Very sorry to hear this.? Paul did a lot of work on my previous MK 1A when he was working out of his shop next to Rick's.? I always enjoyed spending time with him.- Randy
    On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 12:40:52 PM PST, Jim B via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with him over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart goes out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.? His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.? Most all will be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we have.? In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> tigers at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
> 
> 

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/randya at pacbell.net


  
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From blance598 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 25 07:29:48 2019
From: blance598 at gmail.com (Lance Beauchamp)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 09:29:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 323
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4067.1574662910.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4067.1574662910.2922.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CACQC2nUeu9sFE2=bnTOoKdrKJRWzXmXPbpce2qE_3AgGYm5WHQ@mail.gmail.com>

How about a proper size rubber washer, I removed mine to allow the door
more openning no issues in
30 plus years. Beau

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, Nov 25, 2019, 1:22 AM
Subject: Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 323
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>


Send Tigers mailing list submissions to
        tigers at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
        tigers-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
        tigers-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. door stays cushioning material (rick at atmospherebuilders.com)
   2. hood hinges (rick at atmospherebuilders.com)
   3. Re: hood hinges (Tom Parker)
   4. Re: Sad News (Jim B)
   5. Re: Sad News (Jim B)
   6. Re: Sad News (Randall Antosiak)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 14:42:18 -0500
From: <rick at atmospherebuilders.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] door stays cushioning material
Message-ID: <020d01d5a2ff$4903be80$db0b3b80$@atmospherebuilders.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

HI All,

In restoration of my Tiger, the door stays ( curved arm limiting door swing)
were removed and I noted that the cushioning material appears to be a
canvas-like cloth with a block coating. It has rotted and is falling apart.
I need something very similar or a good substitute and wondered if anyone
has dealt with this or has some ideas. Thanks.

Rick

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http://autox.team.net/pipermail/tigers/attachments/20191124/0a5b4fdc/attachment-0001.htm
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 14:50:37 -0500
From: <rick at atmospherebuilders.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] hood hinges
Message-ID: <021f01d5a300$71fef740$55fce5c0$@atmospherebuilders.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

HI,

I understand there is to be a left and right hood hinge. My car, an early 1A
( 1966 model assembled in 1965) seems to have been assembled with two
identical hinges. In looking at 2  Series 5 Alpines I have they are the
same.both identical hinges. I have a set of hinges from a wreck series 4 and
they have opposite offset bolt pattern where the two bolts reside. What
gives here? Since my car has some round corners and some square on hood,
trunk and doors the assumption is that they were grabbing any leftover parts
at the beginning of the series 1A that ultimately became square corner. I
wonder if the same applies to some hood hinges. Any ideas on this?

Rick

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:02:06 -0500
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
To: rick at atmospherebuilders.com
Cc: LIST TIGER <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] hood hinges
Message-ID:
        <CAE3_YO-FxiaRcGaAoRQt88nNL6JXVV4kXciowqJ7bVKNf7yneg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My Mark 2 has identical bonnet hinges; the boot hinges are mirror images; 1
Rt., 1 L.

Tigers United has Tiger and Alpine parts lists on their site, you can check
the part numbers there.
www.tigersunited.com under "Rootes Resources."

Tom '67 Mark 2


On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 2:53 PM Richard Hyatt via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

> HI,
>
> I understand there is to be a left and right hood hinge. My car, an early
> 1A ( 1966 model assembled in 1965) seems to have been assembled with two
> identical hinges. In looking at 2  Series 5 Alpines I have they are the
> same?both identical hinges. I have a set of hinges from a wreck series 4
> and they have opposite offset bolt pattern where the two bolts reside.
What
> gives here? Since my car has some round corners and some square on hood,
> trunk and doors the assumption is that they were grabbing any leftover
> parts at the beginning of the series 1A that ultimately became square
> corner. I wonder if the same applies to some hood hinges. Any ideas on
this?
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 12:40:35 -0800
From: Jim B <jbsyv at yahoo.com>
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Sad News
Message-ID: <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB at yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with him
over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart goes
out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
wrote:
>
>
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul
Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with
his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.  His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as
well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.  Most all will
be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we
have.  In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 12:40:35 -0800
From: Jim B <jbsyv at yahoo.com>
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Sad News
Message-ID: <53EC8132-5BA3-4BD4-B235-713C7DD554AB at yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with him
over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart goes
out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
wrote:
>
>
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul
Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with
his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.  His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as
well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.  Most all will
be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we
have.  In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 06:21:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: Randall Antosiak <randya at pacbell.net>
To: Gary <garywinblad at comcast.net>, Jim B <jbsyv at yahoo.com>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Sad News
Message-ID: <2134603308.6032004.1574662903876 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Very sorry to hear this.? Paul did a lot of work on my previous MK 1A when
he was working out of his shop next to Rick's.? I always enjoyed spending
time with him.- Randy
    On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 12:40:52 PM PST, Jim B via Tigers <
tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:

 Sad to hear the bad news. I didn?t really know Paul but had spoken with
him over the phone for restoration tips while restoring my Tiger. My heart
goes out to the family.
Jim

> On Nov 22, 2019, at 6:50 AM, Gary via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
wrote:
>
>
> Tiger restoration expert, loyal friend, and all around great guy Paul
Reisentz
> has lost his three year fight with cancer. He passed away peacefully with
his
> beloved wife, Julie by his side.
> Over his nearly 50 year long career restoring cars, he worked on hundreds
> of Tigers.? His full restorations are near perfect and always perform as
well as
> they look.
> Paul did leave several project cars, parts, and supplies.? Most all will
be available
> in the coming months, stay tuned but wait for us to figure out what we
have.? In the
> meantime, please keep Paul, Julie and their family in your thoughts
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbsyv at yahoo.com
>
>

_______________________________________________

tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/randya at pacbell.net



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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
Tigers mailing list
Tigers at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive


------------------------------

End of Tigers Digest, Vol 11, Issue 323
***************************************
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From wjtwgoodman at aol.com  Thu Nov 28 11:48:19 2019
From: wjtwgoodman at aol.com (Warren Goodman)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2019 18:48:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Final 40 sale
References: <992094898.770160.1574966899787.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <992094898.770160.1574966899787@mail.yahoo.com>


Sunbeam Tiger Reproduction Air Cleaner Promotion. Warren and Lee the air cleaner partners are offering a special deal on the last 40 air cleaners remaining. We will pay your new membership fee to the club of your choice. If you are non member of any one of the clubs, you can become a member of the listed clubs below, If we have missed a club please contact us. You just provide your contact information and club or organization you would like to support or join. Thanks for supporting the project! $35 CAT, $34 TEAE, $35 donation to Rootes Archive & $50 STOA. $25 SAOCA, Sale Price $400 plus the cost of shipping and insurance if desired, we prefer USPS. We will pay your new membership/donation and forward your info. as needed.

*No small print here but additional details. New memberships only to a club you are not a current member of.
Archive isn't a club so if can be default if you choose. For multiple purchases please ask.
* Pacific Tiger Club or CATO as well.


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