From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com Mon Mar 3 10:53:47 2025 From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2025 11:53:47 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Update on Heater Core and Wiper Issues Message-ID: 1. Wiper would occasionally turn on by itself or not turn off after being turned on. This was only happening during the one rainy day I had it out. I have not been able to reproduce the problem in my garage. I took the switch apart and cleaned the internals with Deoxit. I also cleaned all of the connections. I then dropped the wiper motor and opened up the gearbox and found some grease on the stop switch contact. I cleaned all of that up and put it back together. D###it, I got the stop switch thing 180 degrees out of position and the wipers are trying to part on the wrong side. Took it apart again and fixed that. So now I'll wait and see if the problem ever comes back. I hate intermittent problems. While I was troubleshooting the wiper issue I thought I would check into some other issues I was having under the dash. I don't fit under the dash very well so I took out the radio, the seats and the shifter. My dash lights weren't working, so I dug around until I found a wire disconnected. I also found that one of the lights wasn't even plugged into the back of a gauge. Then I noticed that I must have ripped out a wire for the cigar lighter when I was taking out the radio. Fixed that. One thing after another. 2. Heater core leak. I live near a small town and had to search around to find somebody that works on radiators. After trying a couple of places I was directed to an old guy about 30 miles away that still does this kind of work. He's an interesting old guy that likes to talk. I must have been there an hour when I was dropping off the core. I told him I could buy a new one for about $200 and he started talking about how my old one was constructed and how he didn't think anybody could build something like today for only $200. Anyway, he just called and told me to come pick it up. Have Fun, Joe Brown -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ktisdale at ix.netcom.com Mon Mar 3 14:37:48 2025 From: ktisdale at ix.netcom.com (Ken Tisdale) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2025 14:37:48 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Update on Heater Core and Wiper Issues In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <33d3c419-b65b-4939-90bd-c31ed0a987eb@ix.netcom.com> I love spending time with old school craftspeople and fixers. Always a great way to learn stuff... Ken On 3/3/2025 10:53 AM, Joe Brown wrote: > 1. Wiper would occasionally turn on by itself or not turn off after > being turned on.? This was only happening during the one rainy day I > had it out.? I have not been able to reproduce the problem in my > garage.? I took the switch apart and cleaned the internals with > Deoxit.? I also cleaned all of the connections.? I then dropped the > wiper motor and opened up the gearbox?and found some grease on the > stop switch contact.? I cleaned all of that up and put it back > together.? D###it, I got the stop switch thing 180 degrees out of > position and the wipers are trying to part on the wrong side.? Took it > apart again and fixed that. > So now I'll wait and see if the problem ever comes back.? I hate > intermittent problems. > > While I was troubleshooting the wiper issue I thought I would check > into some other issues I was having under the dash.? I don't fit under > the dash very well so I took out the radio, the seats and the > shifter.? My dash lights weren't working, so I dug around until I > found a wire disconnected.? I also found that one of the lights wasn't > even plugged into the back of a gauge.? Then I noticed that I must > have ripped out a wire for the cigar lighter when I was taking out the > radio. Fixed that.? One thing after another. > > 2.? Heater core leak.? I live near a small town and had to search > around to find somebody that works on radiators.? After trying a > couple of places I was directed to an old guy about 30 miles away that > still does this kind of work.? He's an interesting old guy that likes > to talk.? I must have been there an hour when I was dropping off the > core.? I told him I could buy a new one for about $200 and he started > talking about how my old one was constructed and how he didn't think > anybody could build something like today for only $200. Anyway,? he > just called and told me to come pick it up. > > Have Fun, > Joe Brown > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ktisdale at ix.netcom.com > > -- Ken Tisdale 303-807-5488 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ktisdale.vcf Type: text/vcard Size: 4 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com Sat Mar 8 15:05:34 2025 From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2025 16:05:34 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts Message-ID: So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car into my garage. I am very lucky that: 1. I was going pretty slow at the time 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road 3. None of the body work was damaged 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose again. Regards, Joe Brown -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jay.laifman at gmail.com Sat Mar 8 20:44:52 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2025 19:44:52 -0800 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow. That is really scary. Thanks for the warning. I see what you are saying about the castle nuts. However, I have to say, in all the years I've taken off ball joints or tie rods, I've never ever had one just slide off, and they always needed a tool and a lot of force. So I'm wondering if something else happened there. On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown wrote: > So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just > about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front > suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before > stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball > joints. > > I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my > truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked > up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the > lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 > years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to > wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to > slowly drive the car into my garage. > > I am very lucky that: > 1. I was going pretty slow at the time > 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road > 3. None of the body work was damaged > 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up > > If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a > winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. > > So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for > castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose > again. > > Regards, > Joe Brown > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com Sat Mar 8 21:08:36 2025 From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2025 22:08:36 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I was also wondering about how it came loose. We have a bunch of rough roads around here and I have to cross over several cattle guards. I wonder if the nut came loose and then hitting pot holes and cattle guards knocked the pin loose. I hope and pray that the hole in the knuckle hasn't been worn out a little bit. I'll have to see how the new ball joints fit. I'll keep everybody posted. Thanks, Joe Brown On Sat, Mar 8, 2025, 9:45?PM Jay Laifman wrote: > Wow. That is really scary. Thanks for the warning. > > I see what you are saying about the castle nuts. However, I have to say, > in all the years I've taken off ball joints or tie rods, I've never ever > had one just slide off, and they always needed a tool and a lot of force. > So I'm wondering if something else happened there. > > On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown wrote: > >> So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just >> about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front >> suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before >> stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball >> joints. >> >> I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my >> truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked >> up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the >> lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 >> years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to >> wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to >> slowly drive the car into my garage. >> >> I am very lucky that: >> 1. I was going pretty slow at the time >> 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road >> 3. None of the body work was damaged >> 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped >> up >> >> If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a >> winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. >> >> So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for >> castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose >> again. >> >> Regards, >> Joe Brown >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sun Mar 9 09:13:38 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2025 11:13:38 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01db9105$d75d6dd0$86184970$@bluefrog.com> Joe Glad no one was hurt by this incident. Seems strange that a NyLock nut came loose but without that nut the full weight of the car and the spring force are pushing the ball joint out of the knuckle. Do a complete inspection of the knuckle ? safety first and always. Maintenance schedule ? less driven vehicles really need increased maintenance schedules. When the weather warms up more here I will do a safety check for all the lights and complete front end check with brakes checked ? this is my normal maintenance routine before driving the Tiger every year. Last summer I did an even more comprehensive check on the Tiger and found numerous little problems ? torn ball joint boots, air in the brake lines, rear brakes needed adjustment, Panhard bolt very loose ? good thing it was a long bolt or it would be lost to the highway gremlins forever plus a small fuel leak. These days with the fuel; everyone should routinely inspect the condition of any fuel hose ? if cracked, replace. Ron Fraser From: Tigers On Behalf Of Joe Brown Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2025 11:09 PM To: Jay Laifman Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts I was also wondering about how it came loose. We have a bunch of rough roads around here and I have to cross over several cattle guards. I wonder if the nut came loose and then hitting pot holes and cattle guards knocked the pin loose. I hope and pray that the hole in the knuckle hasn't been worn out a little bit. I'll have to see how the new ball joints fit. I'll keep everybody posted. Thanks, Joe Brown On Sat, Mar 8, 2025, 9:45?PM Jay Laifman > wrote: Wow. That is really scary. Thanks for the warning. I see what you are saying about the castle nuts. However, I have to say, in all the years I've taken off ball joints or tie rods, I've never ever had one just slide off, and they always needed a tool and a lot of force. So I'm wondering if something else happened there. On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car into my garage. I am very lucky that: 1. I was going pretty slow at the time 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road 3. None of the body work was damaged 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose again. Regards, Joe Brown _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sun Mar 9 12:27:08 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2025 14:27:08 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <000a01db9105$d75d6dd0$86184970$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: <001601db9120$df9f4660$9eddd320$@bluefrog.com> Jerry That is an excellent idea. A witness mark will give a fast visual if a nut or bolt has moved. Ron Fraser From: Jerry Christopherson Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2025 11:40 AM To: Ron Fraser Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts Something that works very well is a "witness mark" on bolts or nuts. A small white line (finger nail polish) on the side of a nut down to the base metal. Very easy to take a quick look to see if any movement has occured. Jerry On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 10:21?AM Ron Fraser > wrote: Joe Glad no one was hurt by this incident. Seems strange that a NyLock nut came loose but without that nut the full weight of the car and the spring force are pushing the ball joint out of the knuckle. Do a complete inspection of the knuckle ? safety first and always. Maintenance schedule ? less driven vehicles really need increased maintenance schedules. When the weather warms up more here I will do a safety check for all the lights and complete front end check with brakes checked ? this is my normal maintenance routine before driving the Tiger every year. Last summer I did an even more comprehensive check on the Tiger and found numerous little problems ? torn ball joint boots, air in the brake lines, rear brakes needed adjustment, Panhard bolt very loose ? good thing it was a long bolt or it would be lost to the highway gremlins forever plus a small fuel leak. These days with the fuel; everyone should routinely inspect the condition of any fuel hose ? if cracked, replace. Ron Fraser From: Tigers > On Behalf Of Joe Brown Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2025 11:09 PM To: Jay Laifman > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts I was also wondering about how it came loose. We have a bunch of rough roads around here and I have to cross over several cattle guards. I wonder if the nut came loose and then hitting pot holes and cattle guards knocked the pin loose. I hope and pray that the hole in the knuckle hasn't been worn out a little bit. I'll have to see how the new ball joints fit. I'll keep everybody posted. Thanks, Joe Brown On Sat, Mar 8, 2025, 9:45?PM Jay Laifman > wrote: Wow. That is really scary. Thanks for the warning. I see what you are saying about the castle nuts. However, I have to say, in all the years I've taken off ball joints or tie rods, I've never ever had one just slide off, and they always needed a tool and a lot of force. So I'm wondering if something else happened there. On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car into my garage. I am very lucky that: 1. I was going pretty slow at the time 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road 3. None of the body work was damaged 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose again. Regards, Joe Brown _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From modtiger at comcast.net Sun Mar 9 20:31:56 2025 From: modtiger at comcast.net (Tom Hall) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2025 19:31:56 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: <001601db9120$df9f4660$9eddd320$@bluefrog.com> References: <000a01db9105$d75d6dd0$86184970$@bluefrog.com> <001601db9120$df9f4660$9eddd320$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: It's hard to believe that this is still happening.? It started when Rick at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in the mid-eighties.? The OEM suppliers had always used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new supplier went with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted.? My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you were, having the lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again luckily at low speed. Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly after it happened.? Rick and I sat down with them and they insisted this this had never happened before and it must have been _My fault_. Rick and I talked at length and they told us that they were not going to modify their product. Rick however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower ball joint stock from that time until the current time.? This supplier made an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted the copper plating of the genuine OEM supplier.? What happened is that during storage after manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the rust process.? With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction in the joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper cone. Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock nut but I've never heard of anyone loosing one to this friction un-screw mechanism.? Different loading's, different results. > On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: > > So,? I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and > as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my > driveway) the right front suspension?dropped to the ground > and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could > think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. > > I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack > stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger.? I managed > to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut > on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had > dropped to the road.? My suspension pieces are at least 30 > years old and the ball joints were?held on with nylock > nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper > and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car > into my garage. > > I am very lucky that: > > 1. I was going pretty slow at the time > > 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side > of the road > > 3. None of the body work was damaged > > 4.? And nothing else in the suspension looks to be > damaged; just scraped up > > If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been > doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a > ditch. > > So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill > them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a > nut working its way loose again. > > Regards, > > Joe Brown > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > Image removed by sender. > > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net > > -- Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC 5712 San Luis Court Pleasanton, CA 94566 (925)462-3876 modtiger at comcast.net http://tigerengineering.net/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jbbrown1980 at gmail.com Sun Mar 9 23:01:08 2025 From: jbbrown1980 at gmail.com (Joe Brown) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2025 00:01:08 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <000a01db9105$d75d6dd0$86184970$@bluefrog.com> <001601db9120$df9f4660$9eddd320$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: Hi Tom, Thanks for the explanation. I was worried that maybe I had done something wrong when I installed them. I've got an order in for some new ones along with some tie rod ends and I look forward to getting back on the road. Thanks, Joe Brown On Sun, Mar 9, 2025, 9:47?PM Tom Hall via Tigers wrote: > It's hard to believe that this is still happening. It started when Rick > at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in the mid-eighties. The > OEM suppliers had always used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new > supplier went with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted. > My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back > in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you were, having the > lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again luckily at low speed. > > Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly after it > happened. Rick and I sat down with them and they insisted this this had > never happened before and it must have been *My fault*. Rick and I > talked at length and they told us that they were not going to modify their > product. Rick however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut > was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower > ball joint stock from that time until the current time. This supplier made > an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted the copper plating of the > genuine OEM supplier. What happened is that during storage after > manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the rust process. > With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction > in the joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper > cone. > > Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock nut but I've > never heard of anyone loosing one to this friction un-screw mechanism. > Different loading's, different results. > > On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown wrote: > > So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just > about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front > suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before > stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball > joints. > > > > I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my > truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked > up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the > lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 > years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to > wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to > slowly drive the car into my garage. > > > > I am very lucky that: > > 1. I was going pretty slow at the time > > 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road > > 3. None of the body work was damaged > > 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up > > > > If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a > winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. > > > > So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for > castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose > again. > > > > Regards, > > Joe Brown > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net > > > -- > Tom Hall > ModTiger Engineering LLC5712 San Luis Court > Pleasanton, CA 94566 > (925)462-3876modtiger at comcast.nethttp://tigerengineering.net/ > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbbrown1980 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jay.laifman at gmail.com Sun Mar 9 23:45:12 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2025 22:45:12 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Mar 10 12:37:07 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2025 14:37:07 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> Jay As the saying goes ?Stuff Happens?. Nylock nuts are generally fine. I would say anyone with Nylock nuts should put a witness mark on them as an easy visual safety check. Seems to me I have some Nylocks on the front suspension; I will check them and put a witness mark on them. As with any product some are junk. I remember installing a Nylock nut and as I tightened it down the nylon insert popped out. I threw those Nylocks away. Your situation is most likely OK. I would check the torque on the nuts and put a witness mark on them. I think the problem we have with why the nut came off is because we generally think in terms of static conditions. Vehicles are on the move, vibrations can facilitate a nut or bolt to turn. I?m sure there are other dynamic forces working here too but they are beyond my grade level. Ron Fraser From: Tigers On Behalf Of Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 10, 2025 1:45 AM To: modtiger at comcast.net Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts I remember a light blue Mazda Alpine. What ever happened to it? I am not sure I understand how friction in the ball causes the taper to come lose. But regardless, I think it is pretty likely my lower ball joints were sourced from Rick about 1994, and it is nyloc only. Are you suggesting they are all an accident away? On Mar 9, 2025, at 7:43?PM, Tom Hall via Tigers > wrote: ? It's hard to believe that this is still happening. It started when Rick at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in the mid-eighties. The OEM suppliers had always used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new supplier went with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted. My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you were, having the lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again luckily at low speed. Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly after it happened. Rick and I sat down with them and they insisted this this had never happened before and it must have been My fault. Rick and I talked at length and they told us that they were not going to modify their product. Rick however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower ball joint stock from that time until the current time. This supplier made an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted the copper plating of the genuine OEM supplier. What happened is that during storage after manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the rust process. With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction in the joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper cone. Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock nut but I've never heard of anyone loosing one to this friction un-screw mechanism. Different loading's, different results. On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car into my garage. I am very lucky that: 1. I was going pretty slow at the time 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road 3. None of the body work was damaged 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose again. Regards, Joe Brown _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net -- Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC 5712 San Luis Court Pleasanton, CA 94566 (925)462-3876 modtiger at comcast.net http://tigerengineering.net/ _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jay.laifman at gmail.com Mon Mar 10 12:42:00 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2025 11:42:00 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> References: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: Thoughts on pulling off nylocks and putting on two nuts to jam tight? On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 11:37?AM Ron Fraser wrote: > Jay > > > > As the saying goes ?Stuff Happens?. > > > > Nylock nuts are generally fine. I would say anyone with Nylock nuts > should put a witness mark on them as an easy visual safety check. Seems > to me I have some Nylocks on the front suspension; I will check them and > put a witness mark on them. > > > > As with any product some are junk. I remember installing a Nylock nut > and as I tightened it down the nylon insert popped out. I threw those > Nylocks away. > > > > Your situation is most likely OK. I would check the torque on the nuts > and put a witness mark on them. > > > > I think the problem we have with why the nut came off is because we > generally think in terms of static conditions. Vehicles are on the move, > vibrations can facilitate a nut or bolt to turn. I?m sure there are other > dynamic forces working here too but they are beyond my grade level. > > > > Ron Fraser > > > > > > > > *From:* Tigers *On Behalf Of *Jay Laifman > *Sent:* Monday, March 10, 2025 1:45 AM > *To:* modtiger at comcast.net > *Cc:* tigers at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts > > I remember a light blue Mazda Alpine. What ever happened to it? > > > > I am not sure I understand how friction in the ball causes the taper to > come lose. But regardless, I think it is pretty likely my lower ball > joints were sourced from Rick about 1994, and it is nyloc only. Are you > suggesting they are all an accident away? > > > > On Mar 9, 2025, at 7:43?PM, Tom Hall via Tigers > wrote: > > ? > > It's hard to believe that this is still happening. It started when Rick > at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in the mid-eighties. The > OEM suppliers had always used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new > supplier went with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted. > My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back > in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you were, having the > lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again luckily at low speed. > > Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly after it > happened. Rick and I sat down with them and they insisted this this had > never happened before and it must have been *My fault*. Rick and I > talked at length and they told us that they were not going to modify their > product. Rick however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut > was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower > ball joint stock from that time until the current time. This supplier made > an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted the copper plating of the > genuine OEM supplier. What happened is that during storage after > manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the rust process. > With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction > in the joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper > cone. > > Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock nut but I've > never heard of anyone loosing one to this friction un-screw mechanism. > Different loading's, different results. > > > > On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown wrote: > > So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just > about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front > suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before > stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball > joints. > > > > I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my > truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked > up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the > lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 > years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to > wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to > slowly drive the car into my garage. > > > > I am very lucky that: > > 1. I was going pretty slow at the time > > 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road > > 3. None of the body work was damaged > > 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up > > > > If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a > winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. > > > > So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for > castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose > again. > > > > Regards, > > Joe Brown > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > tigers at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net > > > > > > > > -- > > Tom Hall > > ModTiger Engineering LLC > > 5712 San Luis Court > > Pleasanton, CA 94566 > > (925)462-3876 > > modtiger at comcast.net > > http://tigerengineering.net/ > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Mar 10 13:15:44 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2025 15:15:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: <001601db91f0$d3f10c10$7bd32430$@bluefrog.com> Jay I?m not familiar enough with the history of your Tiger so it comes down to how do you feel about the Nylocks. I?m assuming they have been on for some time, have not moved and are probably very safe. I would check them, mark them, then regularly inspect the witness marks for any movement, then decide. Ron Fraser From: Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 10, 2025 2:42 PM To: Ron Fraser Cc: modtiger at comcast.net; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts Thoughts on pulling off nylocks and putting on two nuts to jam tight? On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 11:37?AM Ron Fraser > wrote: Jay As the saying goes ?Stuff Happens?. Nylock nuts are generally fine. I would say anyone with Nylock nuts should put a witness mark on them as an easy visual safety check. Seems to me I have some Nylocks on the front suspension; I will check them and put a witness mark on them. As with any product some are junk. I remember installing a Nylock nut and as I tightened it down the nylon insert popped out. I threw those Nylocks away. Your situation is most likely OK. I would check the torque on the nuts and put a witness mark on them. I think the problem we have with why the nut came off is because we generally think in terms of static conditions. Vehicles are on the move, vibrations can facilitate a nut or bolt to turn. I?m sure there are other dynamic forces working here too but they are beyond my grade level. Ron Fraser From: Tigers > On Behalf Of Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 10, 2025 1:45 AM To: modtiger at comcast.net Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts I remember a light blue Mazda Alpine. What ever happened to it? I am not sure I understand how friction in the ball causes the taper to come lose. But regardless, I think it is pretty likely my lower ball joints were sourced from Rick about 1994, and it is nyloc only. Are you suggesting they are all an accident away? On Mar 9, 2025, at 7:43?PM, Tom Hall via Tigers > wrote: ? It's hard to believe that this is still happening. It started when Rick at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in the mid-eighties. The OEM suppliers had always used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new supplier went with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted. My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you were, having the lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again luckily at low speed. Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly after it happened. Rick and I sat down with them and they insisted this this had never happened before and it must have been My fault. Rick and I talked at length and they told us that they were not going to modify their product. Rick however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower ball joint stock from that time until the current time. This supplier made an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted the copper plating of the genuine OEM supplier. What happened is that during storage after manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the rust process. With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction in the joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper cone. Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock nut but I've never heard of anyone loosing one to this friction un-screw mechanism. Different loading's, different results. On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: So, I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short drive and as I was just about home (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the right front suspension dropped to the ground and I skidded several yards before stopping. All I could think of was the old stories about exploding ball joints. I walked to my house and threw a floor jack and some jack stands in my truck and drove back to the Tiger. I managed to get the front end jacked up and discovered that the nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A arm had dropped to the road. My suspension pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball joints were held on with nylock nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the upper and lower A arms and I was able to slowly drive the car into my garage. I am very lucky that: 1. I was going pretty slow at the time 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel on the side of the road 3. None of the body work was damaged 4. And nothing else in the suspension looks to be damaged; just scraped up If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would have been doing 60 on a winding road and I would have wound up in a ditch. So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't have to worry about a nut working its way loose again. Regards, Joe Brown _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net -- Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC 5712 San Luis Court Pleasanton, CA 94566 (925)462-3876 modtiger at comcast.net http://tigerengineering.net/ _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com Tue Mar 11 07:19:42 2025 From: sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com (Arden Bedell) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2025 06:19:42 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: <001601db91f0$d3f10c10$7bd32430$@bluefrog.com> References: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> <001601db91f0$d3f10c10$7bd32430$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: Here's some interesting information to consider about nylon and nyloc nuts: https://nycoa.com/recent-news/2020/moistureinnylon On 3/10/25 12:15 PM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote: > > Jay > > I?m not familiar enough with the history of your Tiger so it comes > down to how do you feel about the Nylocks. > > I?m assuming they have been on for some time, have not moved and are > probably very safe. > > I would check them, mark them, then regularly inspect the witness > marks for any movement, then decide. > > Ron Fraser > > *From:* Jay Laifman > *Sent:* Monday, March 10, 2025 2:42 PM > *To:* Ron Fraser > *Cc:* modtiger at comcast.net; tigers at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts > > Thoughts on pulling off nylocks and putting on two nuts to jam tight? > > On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 11:37?AM Ron Fraser wrote: > > Jay > > As the saying goes ?Stuff Happens?. > > Nylock nuts are generally fine.?? I would say anyone with Nylock > nuts should put a witness mark on them as an easy visual safety > check.?? Seems to me I have some Nylocks on the front suspension; > I will check them and put a witness mark on them. > > As with any product some are junk.?? I remember installing a > Nylock nut and as I tightened it down the nylon insert popped > out.?? I threw those Nylocks away. > > Your situation is most likely OK.?? I would check the torque on > the nuts and put a witness mark on them. > > I think the problem we have with why the nut came off is because > we generally think in terms of static conditions. Vehicles are on > the move, vibrations can facilitate a nut or bolt to turn.?? I?m > sure there are other dynamic forces working here too but they are > beyond my grade level. > > Ron Fraser > > *From:* Tigers *On Behalf Of *Jay > Laifman > *Sent:* Monday, March 10, 2025 1:45 AM > *To:* modtiger at comcast.net > *Cc:* tigers at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts > > I remember a light blue Mazda Alpine.? What ever happened to it? > > I am not sure I understand how friction in the ball causes the > taper to come lose.? But regardless, I think it is pretty likely > my lower ball joints were sourced from Rick about 1994, and it is > nyloc only.? Are you suggesting they are all an accident away? > > On Mar 9, 2025, at 7:43?PM, Tom Hall via Tigers > wrote: > > ? > > It's hard to believe that this is still happening.? It started > when Rick at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers way back in > the mid-eighties.? The OEM suppliers had always used castle > nuts and cotter keys, but this new supplier went with the > Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted.? My daughter > had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered Alpine, back > in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, exactly as you > were, having the lower A-arm fall on the ground, and again > luckily at low speed. > > Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly > after it happened.? Rick and I sat down with them and they > insisted this this had never happened before and it must have > been _My fault_.? Rick and I talked at length and they told us > that they were not going to modify their product. Rick however > changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut was tossed > and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed in his lower > ball joint stock from that time until the current time.? This > supplier made an acceptable ball joint but they also deleted > the copper plating of the genuine OEM supplier.? What happened > is that during storage after manufacturing, moisture got into > the joint and started the rust process.? With only the Nylock > nut, it was only a matter of time before the friction in the > joint started to turn the Nylock nut and unscrew it from the > taper cone. > > Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock > nut but I've never heard of anyone loosing one to this > friction un-screw mechanism.? Different loading's, different > results. > > On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown > wrote: > > So,? I took my Tiger out yesterday for a short > drive and as I was just about home (maybe a > hundred yards from my driveway) the right > front suspension?dropped to the ground and I > skidded several yards before stopping.? All I > could think of was the old stories about > exploding ball joints. > > I walked to my house and threw a floor jack > and some jack stands in my truck and drove > back to the Tiger.? I managed to get the front > end jacked up and discovered that the nut on > the lower ball joint was gone and the lower A > arm had dropped to the road.? My suspension > pieces are at least 30 years old and the ball > joints were?held on with nylock nuts. I > managed to wrap a ratchet strap around the > upper and lower A arms and I was able to > slowly drive the car into my garage. > > I am very lucky that: > > 1. I was going pretty slow at the time > > 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel > on the side of the road > > 3. None of the body work was damaged > > 4.? And nothing else in the suspension looks > to be damaged; just scraped up > > If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I would > have been doing 60 on a winding road and I > would have wound up in a ditch. > > So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and I > will drill them out for castle nuts so I don't > have to worry about a nut working its way > loose again. > > Regards, > > Joe Brown > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > > tigers at autox.team.net > > > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net > > > > > > -- > > Tom Hall > > ModTiger Engineering LLC > > 5712 San Luis Court > > Pleasanton, CA 94566 > > (925)462-3876 > > modtiger at comcast.net > > http://tigerengineering.net/ > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ktisdale at ix.netcom.com Tue Mar 11 16:04:25 2025 From: ktisdale at ix.netcom.com (Ken Tisdale) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2025 16:04:25 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts In-Reply-To: References: <000f01db91eb$6f67d760$4e378620$@bluefrog.com> <001601db91f0$d3f10c10$7bd32430$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: <97623f7f-6ee6-40ad-b0f1-b947cef1938b@ix.netcom.com> Thank you for this! Explains what us wet/snowy winter drivers need to look out for! Wash & dry with a hair dryer... Ken On 3/11/2025 7:19 AM, Arden Bedell wrote: > > Here's some interesting information to consider about nylon and nyloc > nuts: > https://nycoa.com/recent-news/2020/moistureinnylon > > > On 3/10/25 12:15 PM, Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote: >> >> Jay >> >> I?m not familiar enough with the history of your Tiger so it comes >> down to how do you feel about the Nylocks. >> >> I?m assuming they have been on for some time, have not moved and are >> probably very safe. >> >> I would check them, mark them, then regularly inspect the witness >> marks for any movement, then decide. >> >> Ron Fraser >> >> *From:* Jay Laifman >> *Sent:* Monday, March 10, 2025 2:42 PM >> *To:* Ron Fraser >> *Cc:* modtiger at comcast.net; tigers at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts >> >> Thoughts on pulling off nylocks and putting on two nuts to jam tight? >> >> On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 11:37?AM Ron Fraser wrote: >> >> Jay >> >> As the saying goes ?Stuff Happens?. >> >> Nylock nuts are generally fine.?? I would say anyone with Nylock >> nuts should put a witness mark on them as an easy visual safety >> check.?? Seems to me I have some Nylocks on the front suspension; >> I will check them and put a witness mark on them. >> >> As with any product some are junk.?? I remember installing a >> Nylock nut and as I tightened it down the nylon insert popped >> out.?? I threw those Nylocks away. >> >> Your situation is most likely OK.?? I would check the torque on >> the nuts and put a witness mark on them. >> >> I think the problem we have with why the nut came off is because >> we generally think in terms of static conditions.?? Vehicles are >> on the move, vibrations can facilitate a nut or bolt to turn.?? >> I?m sure there are other dynamic forces working here too but they >> are beyond my grade level. >> >> Ron Fraser >> >> *From:* Tigers *On Behalf Of *Jay >> Laifman >> *Sent:* Monday, March 10, 2025 1:45 AM >> *To:* modtiger at comcast.net >> *Cc:* tigers at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Check Your Nuts >> >> I remember a light blue Mazda Alpine.? What ever happened to it? >> >> I am not sure I understand how friction in the ball causes the >> taper to come lose.? But regardless, I think it is pretty likely >> my lower ball joints were sourced from Rick about 1994, and it is >> nyloc only.? Are you suggesting they are all an accident away? >> >> On Mar 9, 2025, at 7:43?PM, Tom Hall via Tigers >> wrote: >> >> ? >> >> It's hard to believe that this is still happening.? It >> started when Rick at Sunbeam Specialties changed suppliers >> way back in the mid-eighties.? The OEM suppliers had always >> used castle nuts and cotter keys, but this new supplier went >> with the Nylock nut design. which Rick initially accepted.? >> My daughter had this "accident" happen in her Rotary powered >> Alpine, back in the 80's, a couple of blocks from home, >> exactly as you were, having the lower A-arm fall on the >> ground, and again luckily at low speed. >> >> Rick arranged a meeting with reps for this supplier shortly >> after it happened.? Rick and I sat down with them and they >> insisted this this had never happened before and it must have >> been _My fault_.? Rick and I talked at length and they told >> us that they were not going to modify their product. Rick >> however changed his receiveal methods so that the Nylok nut >> was tossed and a castle nut and drilled hole were installed >> in his lower ball joint stock from that time until the >> current time.? This supplier made an acceptable ball joint >> but they also deleted the copper plating of the genuine OEM >> supplier.? What happened is that during storage after >> manufacturing, moisture got into the joint and started the >> rust process.? With only the Nylock nut, it was only a matter >> of time before the friction in the joint started to turn the >> Nylock nut and unscrew it from the taper cone. >> >> Conversely, the upper ball joints have also had this Nylock >> nut but I've never heard of anyone loosing one to this >> friction un-screw mechanism.? Different loading's, different >> results. >> >> On Sat, Mar 8, 2025 at 2:19?PM Joe Brown >> wrote: >> >> So,? I took my Tiger out yesterday for a >> short drive and as I was just about home >> (maybe a hundred yards from my driveway) the >> right front suspension?dropped to the ground >> and I skidded several yards before stopping.? >> All I could think of was the old stories >> about exploding ball joints. >> >> I walked to my house and threw a floor jack >> and some jack stands in my truck and drove >> back to the Tiger.? I managed to get the >> front end jacked up and discovered that the >> nut on the lower ball joint was gone and the >> lower A arm had dropped to the road.? My >> suspension pieces are at least 30 years old >> and the ball joints were?held on with nylock >> nuts. I managed to wrap a ratchet strap >> around the upper and lower A arms and I was >> able to slowly drive the car into my garage. >> >> I am very lucky that: >> >> 1. I was going pretty slow at the time >> >> 2. The front end landed in some loose gravel >> on the side of the road >> >> 3. None of the body work was damaged >> >> 4.? And nothing else in the suspension looks >> to be damaged; just scraped up >> >> If this had happened 5 minutes earlier I >> would have been doing 60 on a winding road >> and I would have wound up in a ditch. >> >> So I'm ordering a new set of ball joints and >> I will drill them out for castle nuts so I >> don't have to worry about a nut working its >> way loose again. >> >> Regards, >> >> Joe Brown >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Virus-free.www.avg.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/christopherson2023 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/modtiger at comcast.net >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Tom Hall >> >> ModTiger Engineering LLC >> >> 5712 San Luis Court >> >> Pleasanton, CA 94566 >> >> (925)462-3876 >> >> modtiger at comcast.net >> >> http://tigerengineering.net/ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ktisdale at ix.netcom.com > > -- Ken Tisdale 303-807-5488 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ktisdale.vcf Type: text/vcard Size: 4 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jay.laifman at gmail.com Sat Mar 22 11:19:59 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2025 10:19:59 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch Message-ID: I've had yet another brake pressure switch fail. On my Alpine, I built a bracket and made a mechanical switch. These all seem to go bad after not long enough. Any thoughts on if a "bad" switch can be cleaned and fixed? Or if any particular brand is better at lasting than another? I don't feel like building another bracket just now. I also see I happen to have another new switch. But it's a single wire. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if that could possibly work. Probably not. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fast427 at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 22 13:11:44 2025 From: fast427 at sbcglobal.net (Donald S Antilla) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2025 19:11:44 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Same problem on my (former) Series 200 Griffith. I got a mechanical switch, fabricated a bracket that fit inside my pedal box, and then bought wire with the correct color codes on it, and wired the mechanical switch in parallel with the flakey hydraulic switch. From: Tigers on behalf of Jay Laifman Date: Saturday, March 22, 2025 at 1:23?PM To: Tiger's Den Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch I've had yet another brake pressure switch fail. On my Alpine, I built a bracket and made a mechanical switch. These all seem to go bad after not long enough. Any thoughts on if a "bad" switch can be cleaned and fixed? Or if any particular brand is better at lasting than another? I don't feel like building another bracket just now. I also see I happen to have another new switch. But it's a single wire. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if that could possibly work. Probably not. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From srwick at hotmail.com Sat Mar 22 17:18:44 2025 From: srwick at hotmail.com (steve wick) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2025 23:18:44 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If the switch isn't waterproof, and has an opening of some kind into the interior, you can use a couple of CRC products. First spray contact cleaner into the switch, preferably onto the contacts if they're accessible, exercise the switch a couple dozen times to wear off the corrosion, let it dry, and then spray in 2-26, which is an electrical contact lubricant/protectant. This should slow down the oxidation process on the contacts. Test with a meter to verify the switch is operating normally again. Steve ________________________________ From: Tigers on behalf of Jay Laifman Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 10:19 AM To: Tiger's Den Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch I've had yet another brake pressure switch fail. On my Alpine, I built a bracket and made a mechanical switch. These all seem to go bad after not long enough. Any thoughts on if a "bad" switch can be cleaned and fixed? Or if any particular brand is better at lasting than another? I don't feel like building another bracket just now. I also see I happen to have another new switch. But it's a single wire. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if that could possibly work. Probably not. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sun Mar 23 09:43:58 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2025 11:43:58 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] FW: Brake Light Switch References: Message-ID: <000501db9c0a$661e4f30$325aed90$@bluefrog.com> Forgot to send to all Ron From: Ron Fraser Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2025 11:26 AM To: 'steve wick' Subject: RE: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch I have seen write ups that state the Harley Davidson brake switch is low pressure and DOT 5 compatible. I have no details beyond those statements and no experience with the HD switch. Todays traffic dictates a faster reacting brake light switch and brake lights; safety first. When I installed cruise control on my Tiger, I needed a mechanical switch on the brake pedal wire in parallel with the hydraulic switch. I always recommend installing a switch on the brake pedal. Ron Fraser From: Tigers > On Behalf Of steve wick via Tigers Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 7:19 PM To: Jay Laifman >; Tiger's Den > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch If the switch isn't waterproof, and has an opening of some kind into the interior, you can use a couple of CRC products. First spray contact cleaner into the switch, preferably onto the contacts if they're accessible, exercise the switch a couple dozen times to wear off the corrosion, let it dry, and then spray in 2-26, which is an electrical contact lubricant/protectant. This should slow down the oxidation process on the contacts. Test with a meter to verify the switch is operating normally again. Steve _____ From: Tigers > on behalf of Jay Laifman > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2025 10:19 AM To: Tiger's Den > Subject: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch I've had yet another brake pressure switch fail. On my Alpine, I built a bracket and made a mechanical switch. These all seem to go bad after not long enough. Any thoughts on if a "bad" switch can be cleaned and fixed? Or if any particular brand is better at lasting than another? I don't feel like building another bracket just now. I also see I happen to have another new switch. But it's a single wire. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if that could possibly work. Probably not. -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From winbladgary at gmail.com Sun Mar 23 10:06:20 2025 From: winbladgary at gmail.com (Gary Winblad) Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2025 09:06:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] FW: Brake Light Switch In-Reply-To: <000501db9c0a$661e4f30$325aed90$@bluefrog.com> References: <000501db9c0a$661e4f30$325aed90$@bluefrog.com> Message-ID: A mechanical switch at the pedal is much preferred and is so easy. The wires for the brake lights are available in the loom just to the left of the pedals and have a disconnect right there. A cheap universal switch like for a Jeep or GM works great. A bracket is a scrap of metal, three holes and one bend is all you need. Gary On Sun, Mar 23, 2025 at 8:46?AM Ron Fraser via Tigers wrote: > Forgot to send to all > > Ron > > > > *From:* Ron Fraser > *Sent:* Sunday, March 23, 2025 11:26 AM > *To:* 'steve wick' > *Subject:* RE: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch > > > > I have seen write ups that state the Harley Davidson brake switch is low > pressure and DOT 5 compatible. I have no details beyond those statements > and no experience with the HD switch. > > > > Todays traffic dictates a faster reacting brake light switch and brake > lights; safety first. When I installed cruise control on my Tiger, I > needed a mechanical switch on the brake pedal wire in parallel with the > hydraulic switch. > > > > I always recommend installing a switch on the brake pedal. > > > > Ron Fraser > > > > *From:* Tigers *On Behalf Of *steve wick > via Tigers > *Sent:* Saturday, March 22, 2025 7:19 PM > *To:* Jay Laifman ; Tiger's Den < > tigers at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Brake Light Switch > > > > If the switch isn't waterproof, and has an opening of some kind into the > interior, you can use a couple of CRC products. First spray contact cleaner > into the switch, preferably onto the contacts if they're accessible, > exercise the switch a couple dozen times to wear off the corrosion, let it > dry, and then spray in 2-26, which is an electrical contact > lubricant/protectant. This should slow down the oxidation process on the > contacts. Test with a meter to verify the switch is operating normally > again. > > > > Steve > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Tigers on behalf of Jay Laifman < > jay.laifman at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Saturday, March 22, 2025 10:19 AM > *To:* Tiger's Den > *Subject:* [Tigers] Brake Light Switch > > > > I've had yet another brake pressure switch fail. On my Alpine, I built a > bracket and made a mechanical switch. These all seem to go bad after not > long enough. > > > > Any thoughts on if a "bad" switch can be cleaned and fixed? Or if any > particular brand is better at lasting than another? I don't feel like > building another bracket just now. > > > > I also see I happen to have another new switch. But it's a single wire. > I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if that could possibly work. > Probably not. > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > <#m_5918680810390969543_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/winbladgary at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BrakeSwitch.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 913204 bytes Desc: not available URL: From harryb at elams.org Mon Mar 24 09:53:51 2025 From: harryb at elams.org (Harry Elam) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 11:53:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch Message-ID: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if you want more info. Harry Elam From jay.laifman at gmail.com Mon Mar 24 10:19:36 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 09:19:36 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with chrome pulled up behind us?! On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers wrote: > B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years > ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush > periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if > you want more info. > Harry Elam > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From winbladgary at gmail.com Mon Mar 24 10:36:50 2025 From: winbladgary at gmail.com (Gary Winblad) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 09:36:50 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: I can see my third brake light on my roll bar every time I step on the brake! Yeah, if you check, you might be surprised how bad your pressure switch is.. another reason to put a mechanical switch on the pedal! Gary On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:23?AM Jay Laifman wrote: > So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake > lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when > I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at > the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, > and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with > chrome pulled up behind us?! > > On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers < > tigers at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 >> years ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and >> flush periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it >> now if you want more info. >> Harry Elam >> _______________________________________________ >> >> tigers at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/winbladgary at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Mar 24 10:49:05 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 12:49:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: <000c01db9cdc$a922f420$fb68dc60$@bluefrog.com> I have always done a safety check of all lights on my Tiger each spring when it get warm out and will be doing so again soon. I did this even before I had a switch on the brake pedal. I do this in the garage with the door closed so I can see when the lights are on. I always do a safety check before any trip. Bulbs burn out or lose ground, they need to be checked regularly. Ron Fraser From: Tigers On Behalf Of Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 24, 2025 12:20 PM To: Harry Elam Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake light switch So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with chrome pulled up behind us?! On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers > wrote: B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if you want more info. Harry Elam _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jvparlanti at gmail.com Mon Mar 24 12:53:57 2025 From: jvparlanti at gmail.com (Joe Parlanti) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 18:53:57 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: Folks, Here is the mechanical switch solution that I implemented several years ago. I've had it on my car and several others for quite some time with good results. The attached article is one I wrote for the TEAE Rootes Review. Cheers, JVP [cid:9048348a-6dad-45e9-8206-a260d104438b] 16048 Copen Meadow Dr North Potomac, MD 20878 Cell - 410-599-5475 Email - jvparlanti at gmail.com ________________________________ From: Tigers on behalf of Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 24, 2025 12:19 PM To: Harry Elam Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake light switch So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with chrome pulled up behind us?! On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers > wrote: B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if you want more info. Harry Elam _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Outlook-rhnidsq2.png Type: image/png Size: 17977 bytes Desc: Outlook-rhnidsq2.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mechanical Brake Light Switch.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 271977 bytes Desc: Mechanical Brake Light Switch.pdf URL: From jay.laifman at gmail.com Mon Mar 24 13:52:48 2025 From: jay.laifman at gmail.com (Jay Laifman) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2025 12:52:48 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: The one thing I noticed when I made a bracket for my Alpine, using a plunger switch, is that I had to go back and adjust it a few times to get it just right. I wanted those brake lights coming on at the lightest touch I could have - but then not come on while driving. FWIW, it looks like my FLAPS has the hydraulic switch in stock for $20. I'm going to go grab one and swap it in for now. On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 11:54?AM Joe Parlanti wrote: > Folks, > > Here is the mechanical switch solution that I implemented several years > ago. I've had it on my car and several others for quite some time with good > results. The attached article is one I wrote for the TEAE Rootes Review. > > Cheers, > > JVP > > > 16048 Copen Meadow Dr > North Potomac, MD 20878 > Cell - 410-599-5475 > > Email - *jvparlanti at gmail.com * > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Tigers on behalf of Jay Laifman < > jay.laifman at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Monday, March 24, 2025 12:19 PM > *To:* Harry Elam > *Cc:* tigers at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Brake light switch > > So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake > lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when > I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at > the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, > and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with > chrome pulled up behind us?! > > On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers < > tigers at autox.team.net> wrote: > > B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years > ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush > periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if > you want more info. > Harry Elam > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Outlook-rhnidsq2.png Type: image/png Size: 17977 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rfraser at bluefrog.com Tue Mar 25 13:59:07 2025 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com (Ron Fraser) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2025 15:59:07 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Brake light switch In-Reply-To: References: <2579C29F-B4C8-4205-9759-BDAC18A2D9E1@elams.org> Message-ID: <000201db9dc0$5f73ae20$1e5b0a60$@bluefrog.com> I too use a plunger switch and I epoxied a 3/8? disc to the brake pedal so the switch could never miss or be out of position to fail. Ron Fraser From: Tigers On Behalf Of Jay Laifman Sent: Monday, March 24, 2025 3:53 PM To: Joe Parlanti Cc: Harry Elam ; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake light switch The one thing I noticed when I made a bracket for my Alpine, using a plunger switch, is that I had to go back and adjust it a few times to get it just right. I wanted those brake lights coming on at the lightest touch I could have - but then not come on while driving. FWIW, it looks like my FLAPS has the hydraulic switch in stock for $20. I'm going to go grab one and swap it in for now. On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 11:54?AM Joe Parlanti > wrote: Folks, Here is the mechanical switch solution that I implemented several years ago. I've had it on my car and several others for quite some time with good results. The attached article is one I wrote for the TEAE Rootes Review. Cheers, JVP 16048 Copen Meadow Dr North Potomac, MD 20878 Cell - 410-599-5475 Email - jvparlanti at gmail.com _____ From: Tigers > on behalf of Jay Laifman > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2025 12:19 PM To: Harry Elam > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Brake light switch So perhaps the other question is how often to folks check that their brake lights are coming on as soon as they want them to? It used to be that when I was at a stoplight, and a car pulled up behind me, I'd routinely look at the reflection in the bumper or grille to see if my brake lights were on, and I'd test with light pressure too. When was the last time a car with chrome pulled up behind us?! On Mon, Mar 24, 2025 at 9:06?AM Harry Elam via Tigers > wrote: B382000471 still has an original mechanical switch installed over 20 years ago. We have used silicone brake fluid for decades and drain and flush periodically. As usual, when purchased I bought a spare. Dan has it now if you want more info. Harry Elam _______________________________________________ tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 17977 bytes Desc: not available URL: From deiland1 at att.net Fri Mar 28 10:01:58 2025 From: deiland1 at att.net (Daniel Eiland) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2025 16:01:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] T5 and Electronic Speedometer? References: <215839492.3122038.1743177718669.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215839492.3122038.1743177718669@mail.yahoo.com> Obviously this post isn't about Sunbeam or Jensen Cars, unless you have installed a Ford BW T5 transmission in your car with an electronic speedometer. My T5 is from a 1994-1998 Mustang V6 car. The speedometer sender has 2 wires coming out and they are both white. My electronic speedometer has its own cable that plugs into the speedometer and the other end has a black and a white wire.? My question is, "Since the plug on the transmission sending unit has 2 white wires, does it matter how I connect the black and white wires from the harness? If it matters then how do I figure out which of the 2 white wires is signal and which one is ground? Sorry for being off topic, but it might relate to others who have converted to a T5 transmission.? TIA,Dan Eiland? Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From winbladgary at gmail.com Fri Mar 28 18:12:31 2025 From: winbladgary at gmail.com (Gary Winblad) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2025 17:12:31 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] T5 and Electronic Speedometer? In-Reply-To: <215839492.3122038.1743177718669@mail.yahoo.com> References: <215839492.3122038.1743177718669.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <215839492.3122038.1743177718669@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Dan, I put in a T-5 and used a VDO electronic speedo. I made my own sensor (optical interrupter with tabs on the driveshaft bolts). But.. look at the instructions that came with your speedo! Probably it is protected so you just hook the two wires to the two wires.. MAYBE. The sensor is probably a little motor(generator) that puts out a sinewave with frequency depending on speed. Low voltage so probably won't hurt the speedo. Good luck, let us know how it goes. Gary Winblad On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 9:05?AM Daniel Eiland via Tigers < tigers at autox.team.net> wrote: > Obviously this post isn't about Sunbeam or Jensen Cars, unless you have > installed a Ford BW T5 transmission in your car with an electronic > speedometer. My T5 is from a 1994-1998 Mustang V6 car. The speedometer > sender has 2 wires coming out and they are both white. My electronic > speedometer has its own cable that plugs into the speedometer and the other > end has a black and a white wire. > > My question is, "Since the plug on the transmission sending unit has 2 > white wires, does it matter how I connect the black and white wires from > the harness? If it matters then how do I figure out which of the 2 white > wires is signal and which one is ground? > > Sorry for being off topic, but it might relate to others who have > converted to a T5 transmission. > > TIA, > Dan Eiland > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > > tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/winbladgary at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deiland1 at att.net Mon Mar 31 23:47:12 2025 From: deiland1 at att.net (Daniel Eiland) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2025 05:47:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Adding Clutch Switch References: <529191012.225850.1743486432425.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <529191012.225850.1743486432425@mail.yahoo.com> Has anyone added a clutch switch to their car? If so, could you describe how you added a clutch switch to your car? I have a Ford T5 in my car but it doesn't have the neutral safety switch or a place to install one.? TIA,Dan Eiland? Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: