[TR] (no subject)

[Wayne Lee]

Yes, taking the Intake and Carbs off as a unit is alot easier on a TR6 too, 
and doesn't interfere
with your synchronizing etc. If your mating surfaces are still flat all you 
will need is a Stud Set
and new Nuts, and the Manifold Gasket, the Intake and Exhaust Gaskets are 
one in the same on the TR6.
And of couse any Hoses that need replacing and the Manifold to Downpipe 
gasket if you seperate
it. I changed my Exhaust Manifold to the earlier non EGR type at the same 
time as adding the SU
HS6 Carbs.
Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Lisa Richardson'" <lisa at josephvincelli.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)


>> I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. The engine
>> ticks.
>
> Seems likely to me that the ticking is something besides a failed gasket,
> then.  Leaking intake manifold gaskets hiss rather than tick; and leaking
> exhaust manifold gaskets generally get worse rather quickly.  If it's been
> the same for years of daily driving, it must be some other problem.
>
>> First, what other gaskets should I be replacing?
>
> Gaskets don't generally "wear out", so there's no reason to replace them
> unless you disturb the joint for some other reason.  I'm not intimately
> familiar with a 75 TR6, but I would guess that you would only need to
> disturb the head pipe gasket and possibly some hoses (which I would also
> replace) in order to replace a manifold gasket.  The studs, nuts and
> lockwashers for the head pipe joint will likely also need to be replaced;
> and maybe even a HeliCoil where the studs go into the manifold.
>
>> and what if any damage is being done
>
> If it is an exhaust leak, it may be ruining the manifold surface or the 
> head
> surface where the leak is.  Under power, those gases can act like a 
> cutting
> torch.  Leaks at that joint can also upset the mixture for that cylinder,
> which may lead to a burnt exhaust valve.
>
>> considering that the carbs, manifold, etc. have to come off to replace,
>
> If it was a TR3A, I'd leave the carbs attached to the intake manifold. 
> That
> doesn't make the job trivial, but easier.  Not sure if that applies to the
> TR6 though.