[TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable?

[Bud Rolofson]

Dick,

That would be a lot easier.

I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable bolted  
to the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've ever done on  
my 6.  What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job (traditional  
long braided cable) turned into hours because of the tight access for  
both the bolt and the nut.  I must have spent an hour figuring out how  
to hold both in place AND having the right tools to actually pull them  
together.  And then I could only turn it about 1/8 each time.  I  
invented swear words that night.  I deserved it though since I was  
fixing something that didn't need fixing.  I simply wanted to go from  
a flat braided cable to the correct round braided cable.

If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put the  
battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in.  In my  
darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the engine to  
get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed and saner  
moments prevailed.  I could have picked an easier bolt but I didn't  
want the cable twisted around potentially rubbing things and of course  
the hole on the bottom of the cable lined up perfectly with the bolt  
from hell so the die was cast.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Nov 21, 2011, at 11:44 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Grant---It is necessary for the electrical system, including proper  
> battery charging, for the battery to be grounded in two places...At  
> the firewall (body) and at the engine block. This can be done at  
> less cost than using a factory style braided cable, but with a bit  
> more work. You can connect a 'parts house' insulated negative  
> battery cable from the battery to a clean bolt hole at the bell  
> housing. Then add a second reasonably heavy cable, like a length of  
> appliance wire that normally would carry 110V, from the engine block  
> (tapped hole at the back of the head) over to a clean spot on the  
> firewall. There should be tapped hole near the throttle linkage  
> cross shaft for this other end. If you make up this second wire/ 
> cable, use good, soldered "eye" terminal connections at both ends of  
> the wire.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grant Kester
> Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:36 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Cc: Grant Kester
> Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable?
>
> Hi List,
>
> Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there  
> any  problem
> with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I  
> want to
> replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular  
> one, rather
> than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss...
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Kester
>
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