[TR] TR4 heater valve

[Geo Hahn]

Okay - now that I think about it I realize that although I have had the
head off I did not loosen or remove that 45° street ell.

Possibly the correct assembly order is to have it in place before the head
is lowered onto the studs?

I recall on the TR3 I used a lot of sealant on the valve fitting (different
part, same hole) since, like the ell on the TR4, you have to stop at a
particular orientation rather than just tighten all you can.

Geo

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 4:24 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I have the 45 degree elbow part from one of the big three, just don’t
> remember which one.  The top of the elbow has a wider body and it won’t
> spin around completely.  I can’t even take the thing off.  I think I put it
> on when the head was off and thought it was tight.  Now with head
> installed, I can’t get it back out or tighten enough
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> *From:* Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:38 PM
> *To:* James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>; 'triumphs' <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR4 heater valve
>
>
>
> Jim,
>
> The part you need is the elbow. Part # 133061. Plate # AR10 on page 99 in
> the TR4 parts list.
>
> It is about 45% and I have mine pointed slightly to the rear so no problem
> with the valve. This is on my early 63 which should be the same for the 62.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/29/2015 01:14 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
>
> Still working on my restoration of my 1962 TR4.  I have a new heater valve
> inlet pipe installed in the head.  I noticed that it is loose in the
> threads and that you cannot completely turn it to tighten as it hits up
> against the first cylinder head stud and nut.  Even with the stud nut
> removed, it would still hit against the head stud.  It looks like the
> correct part per the factory parts catalog.  The question is how to tighten
> this pipe?  It appears it needs to be a little higher so it doesn’t catch
> against the head stud and can spin freely.  At this stage I am thinking of
> cutting the top of the pipe off so I can remove and start over.  The parts
> catalog doesn’t show if it has a straight pipe extension going into head
> first and then the 45 degree elbow pipe screws into that.  That is what
> looks like is needed.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before
> cutting this bugger out.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 (one day it will be done)
>
> 73 Jaguar XKE 2+2 (delivery from Santa!)
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 76 Toyota Celica
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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