From elliottr at rmi.net Fri Nov 1 11:50:55 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 12:50:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem Message-ID: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> Hi, I have installed LED tail/brake lights (Litezupp) in my wife's TR250.? I also have a third LED brake light on the car - which I have unplugged while trying to diagnose my problem.? It didn't make any difference. Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. I am not using LED turn signals as on the TR250 it requires more than just changing the turn signal flasher.? I do have a new electronic flasher on order anyway as the turn signals are flashing at about twice the normal speed on both sides.? All of the lights are working. I suspect the problem is related to grounding, but I am not sure how to improve the grounding on the 250.?? Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Nov 1 16:31:43 2019 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 15:31:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] To use or not to use gasket sealer on a Payne head gasket Message-ID: I've been able to source some Payen head gaskets for a Stag. Im aware Payen is a maker of good quality gaskets. Should I use a gasket sealer between block and gasket and gasket and cylinder head? The stag like the TR7 has an aluminum head Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timthebold at ameritech.net Fri Nov 1 16:34:04 2019 From: timthebold at ameritech.net (Tim Moore) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 22:34:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> Message-ID: <1050150486.36751.1572647644453@mail.yahoo.com> In order to get led turnsignals to work on our cars you need to have a ballast resistor wired into the circuit. I think MOSS has a video on just this issue. On Friday, November 1, 2019, 02:33:49 PM EDT, Roger Elliott wrote: Hi, I have installed LED tail/brake lights (Litezupp) in my wife's TR250.? I also have a third LED brake light on the car - which I have unplugged while trying to diagnose my problem.? It didn't make any difference. Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. I am not using LED turn signals as on the TR250 it requires more than just changing the turn signal flasher.? I do have a new electronic flasher on order anyway as the turn signals are flashing at about twice the normal speed on both sides.? All of the lights are working. I suspect the problem is related to grounding, but I am not sure how to improve the grounding on the 250.?? Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timthebold at ameritech.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From elliottr at rmi.net Fri Nov 1 17:20:22 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 18:20:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <1050150486.36751.1572647644453@mail.yahoo.com> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <1050150486.36751.1572647644453@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06393d0c-d8ff-ee80-d56d-195a15de60cc@rmi.net> Yes, as I understand it, the TR250 needs either the diode bridge from Litezupp or the ballast resistor from Moss.?? That is the reason I am not trying to use LED turn signals currently, just tail/brake lights. Thanks, On 11/1/19 5:34 PM, Tim Moore wrote: > In order to get led turnsignals to work on our cars you need to have a > ballast resistor wired into the circuit. I think MOSS has a video on > just this issue. > > On Friday, November 1, 2019, 02:33:49 PM EDT, Roger Elliott > wrote: > > > Hi, > I have installed LED tail/brake lights (Litezupp) in my wife's TR250.? I > also have a third LED brake light on the car - which I have unplugged > while trying to diagnose my problem.? It didn't make any difference. > > Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, > the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and > off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is > hooked up it does the same thing. > > I am not using LED turn signals as on the TR250 it requires more than > just changing the turn signal flasher.? I do have a new electronic > flasher on order anyway as the turn signals are flashing at about twice > the normal speed on both sides.? All of the lights are working. > > I suspect the problem is related to grounding, but I am not sure how to > improve the grounding on the 250.?? Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Roger Elliott > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timthebold at ameritech.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Nov 1 19:06:14 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 01:06:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> Message-ID: <1742619005.62447.1572656774904@mail.yahoo.com> Indeed, that is the only common connection.? LED's are quite sensitive to voltage fluctuations so a modestly dirty connection can have that effect. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott To: triumphs Sent: Fri, Nov 1, 2019 1:29 pm Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem Hi, I have installed LED tail/brake lights (Litezupp) in my wife's TR250.? I also have a third LED brake light on the car - which I have unplugged while trying to diagnose my problem.? It didn't make any difference. Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. I am not using LED turn signals as on the TR250 it requires more than just changing the turn signal flasher.? I do have a new electronic flasher on order anyway as the turn signals are flashing at about twice the normal speed on both sides.? All of the lights are working. I suspect the problem is related to grounding, but I am not sure how to improve the grounding on the 250.?? Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 2 15:07:35 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 16:07:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> Message-ID: There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on. If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals. The only fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I?m not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the board. Check with the Jaguar folks.) Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such things. I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter. To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired. On my TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal. Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire. So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Nov 2 15:56:41 2019 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 17:56:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable Message-ID: So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 2 16:25:04 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 22:25:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1768273033.208792.1572733504849@mail.yahoo.com> Are your using the right-angle drive?? When using the right-angle drive you use the same cable as the non-OD cars.? The TR3 and TR4's used the longer cable without the R-A drive and the cable is routed with generous bends to the speedometer.? These cars have a feature on the right-hand footwell that provides room for the cable to pass straight out of the transmission.? It is part of the treatment around the parking brake.? The TR6 does not have this and the R-A drive is required.? I don't know enough about TR4A's to know which setup was used but since you have a TR4A you can answer that for me. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt To: Triumphs Sent: Sat, Nov 2, 2019 4:56 pm Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Nov 2 16:31:05 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:31:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> The overdrive cables are 90 inches or so, as they come off the rear of the overdrive and take a circuitous route under the passenger floor and in front of the battery to the speedometer. I 'd be interested to know how you managed to get a non-OD cable to reach the speedometer in an overdrive car! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 2 17:00:20 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:00:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <852549844.234209.1572735620531@mail.yahoo.com> BTW, the Roadster Factory catalog shows the parts to which I referred in my previous post as for TR4 only suggesting the TR4A uses the right angle drive just like the TR6. if you don't see anything resembling these parts and you have the R-A drive.? The R-A drive looks like this: Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt To: Triumphs Sent: Sat, Nov 2, 2019 4:56 pm Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 2 17:06:29 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:06:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> References: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <140392232.207521.1572735989650@mail.yahoo.com> The later cars (eg TR6) used a right-angle drive that directs the speedometer cable up over the top of the transmission and the non-OD cable is plenty long for this application.? When they relocated the parking brake to the drive shaft tunnel they eliminated the passage for the straight cable and the right-angle drive fits (tightly) inside the transmission cover.? The drive looks like this: Cheers Dave -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Dave Connitt' Cc: 'Triumphs' Sent: Sat, Nov 2, 2019 5:42 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable The overdrive cables are 90 inches or so, as they come off the rear of the overdrive and take a circuitous route under the passenger floor and in front of the battery to the speedometer.? I 'd be interested to know how you managed to get a non-OD cable to reach the speedometer in an overdrive car! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Sat Nov 2 17:59:46 2019 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:59:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> References: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Even with the TR3 you can use the non-OD shorter cable and the right angle drive and route the cable shortest path to the speedo. I rather like eliminating the right angle drive as the repro units are a failure point and instead use the proper routing with the longer cable. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 6:31 PM To: 'Dave Connitt' Cc: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable The overdrive cables are 90 inches or so, as they come off the rear of the overdrive and take a circuitous route under the passenger floor and in front of the battery to the speedometer. I 'd be interested to know how you managed to get a non-OD cable to reach the speedometer in an overdrive car! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com From gdhuggins at genfiniti.com Sun Nov 3 06:32:12 2019 From: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:32:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Parking Lights Message-ID: All, I am having a curious issue with my parking lights, which started all of the sudden after eight years of reliable performance. I was out on one of my night drives, and getting out of the car, noticed that the parking lights were not on, yet the headlights were. I drove home that night with the hazards on, which indicated that they do in fact work. When I started troubleshooting the problem, I removed the steering wheel and switch escutcheons, and inspected the switch itself. It looked good so I remounted it, and put it all back together. Still no luck. Accidentally, I jostled the bell-shaped upper part of the steering column to which the switches are secured, and they came on! On closer inspection, that bell-shaped part is separate of the main steering column, and had become loose. I manipulated that bell section and the parking lights would come on, or go off, depending on what I was doing. So my question is... Does the light switch need to be grounded? I see no ground on the electrical schematics, but this behavior suggests that as I fiddle with that bell-shaped part, it is making or breaking a ground connection to the main steering column, which has a ground strap near the steering rack. If this were true, then the ground sequence would be the switch mounted into the bell part via the upper and lower bolts, the bell itself friction grounded to the main steering column, the main steering column grounded to the rack. But again, I don?t see any deliberate ground for the switch in the schematic. Since the headlights come on, and stay on regardless of what the parking lights are doing, and the parking lights do shine with the bell is in the ?correct? place, I believe it is safe to believe the switch itself is fine, as it behaves as expected. Power is coming into the switch, and being ?switched? to both the headlights and the parking lights. It's just that those parking lights seem fickle depending on how that bell is fit inside the main steering column. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 3 09:13:59 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 10:13:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Parking Lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Guy, The headlight switch does not need to be grounded. I think you are probably looking at a bad connection or a broken wire, that makes contact when you hold the housing a certain way, then opens up when you hold it a different way. Could be inside the switch, could be one of the wires in the column. As an EE friend of mine used to say, a test is worth a thousand theories. Probe the red with green wire with a suitably grounded test light, at the switch, then move things around until the lights go out. If the test light stays lit, the problem is between where it is connected and the lights. Otherwise the switch is bad. (It?s quite possible for one switch contact to fail or become intermittent while the others still work). -- Randall From: G.D. Huggins Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2019 7:32 AM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] TR4A Parking Lights Accidentally, I jostled the bell-shaped upper part of the steering column to which the switches are secured, and they came on! On closer inspection, that bell-shaped part is separate of the main steering column, and had become loose. I manipulated that bell section and the parking lights would come on, or go off, depending on what I was doing. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sun Nov 3 11:06:03 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 12:06:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> References: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <004201d59271$5cabcb60$16036220$@ranteer.com> Route it up through the transmission tunnel. Works on all TR's. probably easier to cut a hole for it in a plastic tunnel than a metal one! And yes, it gets in the way when you are removing the tunnel. But I think its worth it. -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:31 PM To: 'Dave Connitt' Cc: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable The overdrive cables are 90 inches or so, as they come off the rear of the overdrive and take a circuitous route under the passenger floor and in front of the battery to the speedometer. I 'd be interested to know how you managed to get a non-OD cable to reach the speedometer in an overdrive car! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Nov 3 12:26:03 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 13:26:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> HI Randall, Thanks for the information and the tests. I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical trouble shooting ability is very limited. This section is also done with the lights on, right?: To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. Thanks, Roger On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: > > There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals > draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock > alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle.? So > it may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts > (alternator supplying all power to car) to? 12.6 volts (battery > supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive > enough to show the difference in voltage. > > To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch > what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on.? If I?m > right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn > signals.? The only fix would be to convert to a more modern > alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle.? (I?m not > certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and fit > the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the board. > Check with the Jaguar folks.) > > Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are > much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to > buy such things.? I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active > current limiter. > > To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the > negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can > connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at > the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 volt > is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem > that could be fixed. > > I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my TR3, all the > rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into > clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.? Very insecure, especially if > the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. > > However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground > wire.? So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the > rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank > mounting bolts. > > -- Randall > > *From: *Roger Elliott > *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem > > Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, > > the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and > > off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is > > hooked up it does the same thing. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 3 15:37:50 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:37:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> Message-ID: Yes, that?s the idea. You want all the lights on (including turn signals) during this test. What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the ground path. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem HI Randall, Thanks for the information and the tests. I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical trouble shooting ability is very limited. This section is also done with the lights on, right?:? To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. ? Thanks, Roger On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: There may not be a good solution, Roger.? The incandescent turn signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle.? So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to? 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. ? To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on.? If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals.? The only fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle.? (I?m not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the board.? Check with the Jaguar folks.) ? Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such things.? I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter. ? To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. ? I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.? Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint.? ? However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire.? So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. ? -- Randall ? From: Roger Elliott Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem ? Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Nov 4 10:30:39 2019 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 12:30:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <004201d59271$5cabcb60$16036220$@ranteer.com> References: <000601d591cd$385893f0$a909bbd0$@uprichard.net> <004201d59271$5cabcb60$16036220$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <004301d59335$93d7a270$bb86e750$@fuse.net> Andrew, I will take pictures ! Dave Connitt -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:06 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable Route it up through the transmission tunnel. Works on all TR's. probably easier to cut a hole for it in a plastic tunnel than a metal one! And yes, it gets in the way when you are removing the tunnel. But I think its worth it. -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:31 PM To: 'Dave Connitt' Cc: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable The overdrive cables are 90 inches or so, as they come off the rear of the overdrive and take a circuitous route under the passenger floor and in front of the battery to the speedometer. I 'd be interested to know how you managed to get a non-OD cable to reach the speedometer in an overdrive car! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 5:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Nov 4 10:40:28 2019 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 12:40:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <1768273033.208792.1572733504849@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1768273033.208792.1572733504849@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a601d59336$f4678640$dd3692c0$@fuse.net> Hi Dave, The TR4A is set up pretty much like a TR6 regarding the safety brake and speedometer cable routing. I should have just measured my old cable and ordered a replacement from that measurement instead of just assuming that since I have an overdrive that I need to order an ?overdrive cable?. I could have had my TR4A back together and running! Now it looks like I may have it back together just in time to watch the first snowfall of the year! LOL Dave Connitt http://www.DavesTR4A.com From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 6:25 PM To: dconnitt at fuse.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable Are your using the right-angle drive? When using the right-angle drive you use the same cable as the non-OD cars. The TR3 and TR4's used the longer cable without the R-A drive and the cable is routed with generous bends to the speedometer. These cars have a feature on the right-hand footwell that provides room for the cable to pass straight out of the transmission. It is part of the treatment around the parking brake. The TR6 does not have this and the R-A drive is required. I don't know enough about TR4A's to know which setup was used but since you have a TR4A you can answer that for me. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt > To: Triumphs > Sent: Sat, Nov 2, 2019 4:56 pm Subject: [TR] TR4A speedometer cable So I had ordered a new speedometer cable for my TR4A from Moss and it?s about 30 inches too long! I have a a-type overdrive and double checked the catalog part number which is what I have. In checking my old cable, it is the non-overdrive piece. What?s the deal? Dave Connitt ?67 TR4A Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 4 23:17:39 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 00:17:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 on Hitchcock References: <69B8187A-AF11-487C-8189-3FC071801BA0.ref@flash.net> Message-ID: <69B8187A-AF11-487C-8189-3FC071801BA0@flash.net> Watching Alfred Hitchcock tonight, while it?s always nice to see a TR on TV it?s no too unusual. This time, the guy actually gets the Dzus key out of the door pocket, unlatched the bonnet, pulls the coil wire and re-latches the bonnet with the key. Nice attention to detail a Hitch. Bill TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Nov 5 15:19:04 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:19:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 on Hitchcock In-Reply-To: <69B8187A-AF11-487C-8189-3FC071801BA0@flash.net> References: <69B8187A-AF11-487C-8189-3FC071801BA0.ref@flash.net> <69B8187A-AF11-487C-8189-3FC071801BA0@flash.net> Message-ID: <1482680168.114185.1572992344617@connect.xfinity.com> Of course, Bill, it does make total perverted sense. Alfred Hitchcock, the master of mystery and suspense, must eventually gravitate to LBC Lucas. :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On November 5, 2019 at 1:17 AM "Wbeech at flash.net" wrote: > > > Watching Alfred Hitchcock tonight, while it?s always nice to see a TR on TV it?s no too unusual. This time, the guy actually gets the Dzus key out of the door pocket, unlatched the bonnet, pulls the coil wire and re-latches the bonnet with the key. Nice attention to detail a Hitch. > Bill > TS30800L > > > Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:19:21 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:19:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes Message-ID: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 11:31:03 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:31:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> References: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <16947921-FC05-4AE9-9BFD-9CADED6AD14D@flash.net> No harm at all, the restrictor?s job is to keep the pads close to the rotor and minimize the pedal travel required. You may notice a bit more pedal travel but you won?t hurt anything during your testing period. What were you doing before the problem started? You mentioned the master cylinder, I had a similar problem on my TR3B. Turned out that I had the MC rod adjusted in/out too far so it was not releasing the pressure, re-adjusted and problem went away. hope your issue is a simple one. Bill B TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 12:19 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 11:31:03 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:31:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> References: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <16947921-FC05-4AE9-9BFD-9CADED6AD14D@flash.net> No harm at all, the restrictor?s job is to keep the pads close to the rotor and minimize the pedal travel required. You may notice a bit more pedal travel but you won?t hurt anything during your testing period. What were you doing before the problem started? You mentioned the master cylinder, I had a similar problem on my TR3B. Turned out that I had the MC rod adjusted in/out too far so it was not releasing the pressure, re-adjusted and problem went away. hope your issue is a simple one. Bill B TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 12:19 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 6 11:43:14 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2019 12:43:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> References: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I've had mine disabled since around 1975. The only downside to disabling the valve is that you may notice a low pedal after hard cornering. At least for me, I've always still been able to get good brakes on the first application, the pedal just goes down farther than it usually does. Kind of disconcerting if you aren't expecting it, but it only takes one pump to bring it back up. There is a modification to eliminate the low pedal, developed by "uncle jack" Drews IIRC and sold today by TRF (and probably others). Probably a good idea if you're going racing, but not really required on the street, IMO. I forget the change point offhand, but the factory quit fitting the valve at some point, either during TR4 or maybe when the 4A was introduced. -- Randall On 6 November 2019 12:19:21 GMT-06:00, Jim Henningsen wrote: >My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be >caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 >parts >manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been >rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder >too. >Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor >valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need >restrictor valve. >Thanks in advance, >Jim Henningsen >61 TR3A >62 TR4 >75 TR6 >82 Jeep CJ8 > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >http://www.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Nov 6 12:08:03 2019 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:08:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Following up on my rattling shift lever Message-ID: <53CF3750-2DDB-4023-9760-17078AE9594F@fuse.net> Hi everyone, A few weeks ago that the shift lever in my TR4A was rattling. It was one if those noises that sneaks up on you if you know what I mean. It really became annoying while driving back home from Watkins Glen. I tried the suggestion of sliding a piece of hose over the end of the shift lever and it seemed to help until I got on the freeway and there it was. So I got the car up on jack stands and started shaking things and discovered the u-joint in the front of the driveshaft was loose! I had replaced the 4 u-joints on the half shafts before I left for my trip to Watkins Glen and Stowe , Vt. And at time the other 2 seemed OK. Oh well, Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 12:51:15 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:51:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: References: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <01e501d594db$8d77b940$a8672bc0$@gmail.com> Thanks. After removing and inspecting, I think the spring was binding on the threads and staying shut. I am going to removing spring and screw and reinstall. My front tires were locked up prior. Amazing. Jim From: Randall Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 1:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Henningsen ; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes I've had mine disabled since around 1975. The only downside to disabling the valve is that you may notice a low pedal after hard cornering. At least for me, I've always still been able to get good brakes on the first application, the pedal just goes down farther than it usually does. Kind of disconcerting if you aren't expecting it, but it only takes one pump to bring it back up. There is a modification to eliminate the low pedal, developed by "uncle jack" Drews IIRC and sold today by TRF (and probably others). Probably a good idea if you're going racing, but not really required on the street, IMO. I forget the change point offhand, but the factory quit fitting the valve at some point, either during TR4 or maybe when the 4A was introduced. -- Randall On 6 November 2019 12:19:21 GMT-06:00, Jim Henningsen > wrote: My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 12:54:46 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:54:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <16947921-FC05-4AE9-9BFD-9CADED6AD14D@flash.net> References: <018c01d594ce$b5fc6ad0$21f54070$@gmail.com> <16947921-FC05-4AE9-9BFD-9CADED6AD14D@flash.net> Message-ID: <01ea01d594dc$0ad73690$2085a3b0$@gmail.com> Thanks Bill. The front tires were locked via brakes. It has always been dragging a little even before the new MC, but never locked up. After going to get a cup of coffee, when I returned, the front wheels spun. Weird. After removing the whole brake union assembly (PITA), I removed the spring and screw in the restrictor valve. Will reinstall and test. If still happens, I'll check the MC rod. Jim -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 1:31 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes No harm at all, the restrictor?s job is to keep the pads close to the rotor and minimize the pedal travel required. You may notice a bit more pedal travel but you won?t hurt anything during your testing period. What were you doing before the problem started? You mentioned the master cylinder, I had a similar problem on my TR3B. Turned out that I had the MC rod adjusted in/out too far so it was not releasing the pressure, re-adjusted and problem went away. hope your issue is a simple one. Bill B TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 12:19 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 13:08:15 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:08:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <01ea01d594dc$0ad73690$2085a3b0$@gmail.com> References: <01ea01d594dc$0ad73690$2085a3b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <812EB428-F5ED-4F67-AEFA-82E86D3786BF@flash.net> Hopefully you got it. I initially thought I had crushed a brake line but turned out to be in the MC. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 1:54 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?Thanks Bill. The front tires were locked via brakes. It has always been dragging a little even before the new MC, but never locked up. After going to get a cup of coffee, when I returned, the front wheels spun. Weird. After removing the whole brake union assembly (PITA), I removed the spring and screw in the restrictor valve. Will reinstall and test. If still happens, I'll check the MC rod. Jim -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 1:31 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes No harm at all, the restrictor?s job is to keep the pads close to the rotor and minimize the pedal travel required. You may notice a bit more pedal travel but you won?t hurt anything during your testing period. What were you doing before the problem started? You mentioned the master cylinder, I had a similar problem on my TR3B. Turned out that I had the MC rod adjusted in/out too far so it was not releasing the pressure, re-adjusted and problem went away. hope your issue is a simple one. Bill B TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 12:19 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 13:08:15 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:08:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes In-Reply-To: <01ea01d594dc$0ad73690$2085a3b0$@gmail.com> References: <01ea01d594dc$0ad73690$2085a3b0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <812EB428-F5ED-4F67-AEFA-82E86D3786BF@flash.net> Hopefully you got it. I initially thought I had crushed a brake line but turned out to be in the MC. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 1:54 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?Thanks Bill. The front tires were locked via brakes. It has always been dragging a little even before the new MC, but never locked up. After going to get a cup of coffee, when I returned, the front wheels spun. Weird. After removing the whole brake union assembly (PITA), I removed the spring and screw in the restrictor valve. Will reinstall and test. If still happens, I'll check the MC rod. Jim -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 1:31 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] 61 TR3A Question Brakes No harm at all, the restrictor?s job is to keep the pads close to the rotor and minimize the pedal travel required. You may notice a bit more pedal travel but you won?t hurt anything during your testing period. What were you doing before the problem started? You mentioned the master cylinder, I had a similar problem on my TR3B. Turned out that I had the MC rod adjusted in/out too far so it was not releasing the pressure, re-adjusted and problem went away. hope your issue is a simple one. Bill B TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 12:19 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > ?My front brakes feel like they are dragging and I heard that it can be caused by faulty restrictor valve assembly (part number 116197 in Tr4 parts manual). I have same part on my 62 early Tr4. The calipers have been rebuilt, new seals, ss pistons, hoses and dot 5. New master cylinder too. Any harm in removing the spring and "screw" internals on the restrictor valve so fluid flows freely. Also heard that you don't really need restrictor valve. Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 82 Jeep CJ8 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Nov 6 14:13:02 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 16:13:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] VINs Message-ID: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Wed Nov 6 15:10:26 2019 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 14:10:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <000001d594ef$005e91f0$011bb5d0$@cox.net> Andrew, I have seen many mangled "VIN Numbers" on vintage car titles. Apparently when DMV's across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM To: 'Triumphs' >; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VINs I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 16:03:15 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 17:03:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: <000001d594ef$005e91f0$011bb5d0$@cox.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <000001d594ef$005e91f0$011bb5d0$@cox.net> Message-ID: <000a01d594f6$5f46aa70$1dd3ff50$@flash.net> Jonas, My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN. Seems when they ordered the blank VIN plates there was a sample number inserted that got replicated. Had a brief skirmish with the insurance company before getting a letter from MMC explaining it. DMV used the 5 digit chassis number without any questions. Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jpaynepbr at cox.net Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:10 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VINs Andrew, I have seen many mangled "VIN Numbers" on vintage car titles. Apparently when DMV's across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM To: 'Triumphs' >; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VINs I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 16:52:25 2019 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 17:52:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: <000a01d594f6$5f46aa70$1dd3ff50$@flash.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <000001d594ef$005e91f0$011bb5d0$@cox.net> <000a01d594f6$5f46aa70$1dd3ff50$@flash.net> Message-ID: "My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN" Must make for an interesting Carfax report Greg Lemon TR250 On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 5:03 PM wbeech wrote: > Jonas, > > My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN. Seems when they > ordered the blank VIN plates there was a sample number inserted that got > replicated. Had a brief skirmish with the insurance company before getting > a letter from MMC explaining it. DMV used the 5 digit chassis number > without any questions. > > Bill > > > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > jpaynepbr at cox.net > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:10 PM > *To:* 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'Triumphs' < > triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] VINs > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew, > > > > I have seen many mangled ?VIN Numbers? on vintage car titles. > > > > Apparently when DMV?s across the country became computerized, there was no > standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 > digit serial number. > > > > The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 > zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. > > > > I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag > number > > > > > > > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > *We have Moved!* > > Our new offices are locted at: > > > > 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 > > Las Vegas, NV 89120 > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Andrew > Uprichard > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM > *To:* 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [TR] VINs > > > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. > The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? > are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the > title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the > same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I > have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 16:57:14 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 18:57:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Help near Pittsburgh Message-ID: <0573D0C8-DD0C-4CB2-BA35-79A718B5FFAC@gmail.com> Anyone close to bethel park / Pittsburg who would be willing to look at a triumph I am interested in buying? Would compensate for your time and gas. Thanks Jim Henningsen Ocala FL Sent from my iPhone From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 17:30:39 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 18:30:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <503C97B6-0C37-4859-9CD7-1A61A60690C9@flash.net> I think it erred years ago, should try again. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 5:53 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > ? "My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN" Must make for an interesting Carfax report Greg Lemon TR250 > On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 5:03 PM wbeech wrote: > Jonas, > > My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN. Seems when they ordered the blank VIN plates there was a sample number inserted that got replicated. Had a brief skirmish with the insurance company before getting a letter from MMC explaining it. DMV used the 5 digit chassis number without any questions. > > Bill > > > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jpaynepbr at cox.net > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:10 PM > To: 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] VINs > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew, > > > > I have seen many mangled ?VIN Numbers? on vintage car titles. > > > > Apparently when DMV?s across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. > > > > The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. > > > > I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number > > > > > > > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > We have Moved! > > Our new offices are locted at: > > > > 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 > > Las Vegas, NV 89120 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM > To: 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] VINs > > > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0? > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 6 17:30:39 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 18:30:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <503C97B6-0C37-4859-9CD7-1A61A60690C9@flash.net> I think it erred years ago, should try again. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 6, 2019, at 5:53 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > ? "My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN" Must make for an interesting Carfax report Greg Lemon TR250 > On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 5:03 PM wbeech wrote: > Jonas, > > My Morgan is one of hundreds with the same 17 digit VIN. Seems when they ordered the blank VIN plates there was a sample number inserted that got replicated. Had a brief skirmish with the insurance company before getting a letter from MMC explaining it. DMV used the 5 digit chassis number without any questions. > > Bill > > > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jpaynepbr at cox.net > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:10 PM > To: 'Andrew Uprichard' ; 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] VINs > > > > > > > > > > > > Andrew, > > > > I have seen many mangled ?VIN Numbers? on vintage car titles. > > > > Apparently when DMV?s across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. > > > > The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. > > > > I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number > > > > > > > > > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > > > We have Moved! > > Our new offices are locted at: > > > > 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 > > Las Vegas, NV 89120 > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM > To: 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] VINs > > > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0? > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Nov 6 18:35:20 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 20:35:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <00c001d5950b$9f08a360$dd19ea20$@uprichard.net> I once had a TR3 where the title had the body number, starting with an "EB". I went through hoops trying to get things changed, had a police officer come look at the vin plate, copied books which showed that all TR3s had a vin starting TS and ending with an L, etc, etc. Was about to get a correct title, then discovered another car with the same VIN. I learned my lesson: if the car has a title, leave it alone.... Andrew From: Jonas Payne [mailto:jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 5:09 PM To: Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] VINs Andrew, I have seen many mangled "VIN Numbers" on vintage car titles. Apparently when DMV's across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM To: 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VINs I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Nov 6 18:50:45 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 17:50:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero.? I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong.? Not worth having an argument with the DMV.? The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. Brian On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory > overdrive.? The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told > that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles.? So I had to > change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?.? Then I had to call the > insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send > me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. > > Anyone else come across this?? Maybe it has been going on for years:? > I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Thu Nov 7 05:27:57 2019 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 12:27:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net>, Message-ID: How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? Randall Reihing 1960 TR3A 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. Brian On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Nov 7 05:43:50 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 07:43:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net>, Message-ID: <002b01d59569$02219e40$0664dac0$@uprichard.net> That's the whole point. And there is also the insurance company's note - should it have what is on the vin plate or what in on the title?\ But you are in Ohio, Randall - maybe they are more understanding there !! Andrew Jackson, Michigan - where the "law" is: no "Os" on titles From: Reihing, Randall S. [mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu] Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 7:28 AM To: Brian Kemp; Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? Randall Reihing 1960 TR3A 1959 TR3A _____ From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. Brian On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Nov 7 06:14:06 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 08:14:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <002b01d59569$02219e40$0664dac0$@uprichard.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net>, <002b01d59569$02219e40$0664dac0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <63725092.53649.1573132447139@connect.xfinity.com> An agency that records VIN's, doesn't accept a legitimate VIN???? Why am I reminded of the man who had to prove to the Social Security Administration that he wasn't dead? --Terry Smith > On November 7, 2019 at 7:43 AM Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > > That?s the whole point. And there is also the insurance company?s note ? should it have what is on the vin plate or what in on the title?\ > > > > But you are in Ohio, Randall ? maybe they are more understanding there !! > > Andrew > > Jackson, Michigan ? where the ?law? is: no ?Os? on titles > > > > From: Reihing, Randall S. [mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu] > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 7:28 AM > To: Brian Kemp; Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs' > Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? > > > > Randall Reihing > > 1960 TR3A > > 1959 TR3A > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > > > > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. > > > > > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > > > Jackson, MI > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMD-g&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=ygJdmip4iWtd6GzNHqMIZbq96206p9q3-WhOdI-yvQ8&s=phQHotj99D0kpq4jRnZf-7OwyjEbtuMkt3pNV9cE1g4&e= > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwMD-g&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=ygJdmip4iWtd6GzNHqMIZbq96206p9q3-WhOdI-yvQ8&s=Hm6tX5-im23nGy9dxfAbW7DDKZhol4GcwZ2eO2v0_eA&e= http://www.team.net/archive https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwMD-g&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=ygJdmip4iWtd6GzNHqMIZbq96206p9q3-WhOdI-yvQ8&s=qWYQ4aVT-Cb0_e1eASR0rRtMAHdak1sV8bQ5Q3oz848&e= > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_bk13-40earthlink.net&d=DwMD-g&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=ygJdmip4iWtd6GzNHqMIZbq96206p9q3-WhOdI-yvQ8&s=N0bVKt67h_En-9cc3Vhr4Dgf1PO1VU1kKLWgq7Ak96w&e= > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Nov 7 15:05:23 2019 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:05:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Triumph TR Story Message-ID: Hey all ~ Perhaps everyone but me has already seen this but this is an awful lot of Triumph history packed into a 20-minute video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LQi0OgZ-q4 Enjoy! Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 16:46:55 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:46:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] The Triumph TR Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Had not this one, thanks for sharing. M Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 4:06 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > ? Hey all ~ Perhaps everyone but me has already seen this but this is an awful lot of Triumph history packed into a 20-minute video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LQi0OgZ-q4 Enjoy! Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 16:46:55 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:46:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] The Triumph TR Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Had not this one, thanks for sharing. M Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 4:06 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > ? Hey all ~ Perhaps everyone but me has already seen this but this is an awful lot of Triumph history packed into a 20-minute video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LQi0OgZ-q4 Enjoy! Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Thu Nov 7 17:34:49 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 16:34:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> This was the mid 1990's.? I talked to the CA DMV on the phone before buying the car and in person when I went to transfer the car.? They insisted that the Oh was not valid in a VIN and it had to be a zero.? Realized reality didn't matter with the DMV and it wasn't worth trying to be right with the facts.? Since my car has be a CA car since new, I'd guess when initially titled in 1972, they marked it as a zero. Brian On 11/7/2019 4:27 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: > > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" > ?on the?riveted metal plate still?on the car itself? How is it legal > to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the > vehicle's?riveted metal plate? > > > Randall Reihing > > 1960 TR3A > > 1959 TR3A > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs on behalf of Brian > Kemp > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > *To:* Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero.? I told them it should > be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was > wrong.? Not worth having an argument with the DMV.? The insurance > company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> >> I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory >> overdrive.? The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told >> that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles.? So I had to >> change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?.? Then I had to call the >> insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them >> send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. >> >> Anyone else come across this?? Maybe it has been going on for years:? >> I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, MI >> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 19:43:01 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:43:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> References: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7E892C94-CDC6-4F5F-A6A3-E3EF102DA4B7@flash.net> Brian, It comes down to do you want to be right, or get a title and tags for your car. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:35 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > ? This was the mid 1990's. I talked to the CA DMV on the phone before buying the car and in person when I went to transfer the car. They insisted that the Oh was not valid in a VIN and it had to be a zero. Realized reality didn't matter with the DMV and it wasn't worth trying to be right with the facts. Since my car has be a CA car since new, I'd guess when initially titled in 1972, they marked it as a zero. Brian On 11/7/2019 4:27 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? > > Randall Reihing > 1960 TR3A > 1959 TR3A > From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. >> >> Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, MI >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 19:43:01 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:43:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> References: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7E892C94-CDC6-4F5F-A6A3-E3EF102DA4B7@flash.net> Brian, It comes down to do you want to be right, or get a title and tags for your car. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:35 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > ? This was the mid 1990's. I talked to the CA DMV on the phone before buying the car and in person when I went to transfer the car. They insisted that the Oh was not valid in a VIN and it had to be a zero. Realized reality didn't matter with the DMV and it wasn't worth trying to be right with the facts. Since my car has be a CA car since new, I'd guess when initially titled in 1972, they marked it as a zero. Brian On 11/7/2019 4:27 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? > > Randall Reihing > 1960 TR3A > 1959 TR3A > From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. >> >> Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, MI >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 7 20:25:16 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 21:25:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I suspect it depends a lot on which clerk you get at the DMV. There are a lot of special rules for old cars, which the average clerk doesn?t seem to know much about (nor often their supervisor). The TR3A I bought around 1983 was an LO car, but the original paperwork had the wrong number entirely. Not sure how that happened, but no one noticed for many years until the state started automatically matching insurance policies to registrations. Even then, the DMV didn?t care, it was just a hassle having to take in proof of insurance to get my registration. I finally took them the car, showed the commission plate, and they wrote a new title with -LO on it. More recently, I bought a 56 TR3 that came with California ?black plates?. I wanted to keep the black plates on the car, but the DMV clerk insisted on writing up the paperwork under the ?Year of Manufacture? provision, which I told her did not apply to my car. (Black plates didn?t come out until 1963.} Of course Sacramento denied the application. I went back to the DMV quoting chapter and verse from the vehicle code, spoke to the branch supervisor and waited several hours before they finally admitted they did not know how to handle my application. They eventually let me fill out a blank ?statement of facts? and sent that to Sacramento (who approved my black plates). The federal standards defining ?VIN? didn?t come out until 1981, so they don?t apply to our cars. That?s why we don?t have 17 letters and numbers, and can have ?O?. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Nov 7 21:14:18 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:14:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <20191108032530.57B6AA0371@autox.team.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032530.57B6AA0371@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <900595601.38347.1573186459166@connect.xfinity.com> Man, I recently jumped over a few big hurdles to transfer the title on my decades long dormant TR2 before beginning disassembly for restoration. Reading this thread got me thinking, and I was close to the paperwork, so I took a quick look. I was surprised to see an 0 instead of an O on the new paper work. Darn. It is listed and an O on all earlier forms. WTF! I hadn't noticed the difference. WTF. Dave H. Santa Cruz, CA > On November 7, 2019 at 7:25 PM Randall wrote: > > > I suspect it depends a lot on which clerk you get at the DMV. There are a lot of special rules for old cars, which the average clerk doesn?t seem to know much about (nor often their supervisor). > > > > The TR3A I bought around 1983 was an LO car, but the original paperwork had the wrong number entirely. Not sure how that happened, but no one noticed for many years until the state started automatically matching insurance policies to registrations. Even then, the DMV didn?t care, it was just a hassle having to take in proof of insurance to get my registration. > > > > I finally took them the car, showed the commission plate, and they wrote a new title with -LO on it. > > > > More recently, I bought a 56 TR3 that came with California ?black plates?. I wanted to keep the black plates on the car, but the DMV clerk insisted on writing up the paperwork under the ?Year of Manufacture? provision, which I told her did not apply to my car. (Black plates didn?t come out until 1963.} Of course Sacramento denied the application. I went back to the DMV quoting chapter and verse from the vehicle code, spoke to the branch supervisor and waited several hours before they finally admitted they did not know how to handle my application. They eventually let me fill out a blank ?statement of facts? and sent that to Sacramento (who approved my black plates). > > > > The federal standards defining ?VIN? didn?t come out until 1981, so they don?t apply to our cars. That?s why we don?t have 17 letters and numbers, and can have ?O?. > > > > -- Randall > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Nov 7 21:14:58 2019 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 21:14:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <7E892C94-CDC6-4F5F-A6A3-E3EF102DA4B7@flash.net> References: <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <7E892C94-CDC6-4F5F-A6A3-E3EF102DA4B7@flash.net> Message-ID: <07e65f75-4c6e-a198-9a05-fb315cc0499e@dfn.com> On 11/7/2019 7:43 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Brian, > It comes down to do you want to be right, or get a title and tags for > your car. ?Bill Sometimes you get neither.? Back in the early Zeroes, I bought a car in Texas, A TR7 (well, hell, it was an oddity with a John's Cars Buick V-6 conversion), and drove it back to NM.? Admittedly, I looked at the VIN and thought it matched the title and didn't think any more about it, because Texas gave me temporary tags and the insurance company was okay with it. When I went to title the car in NM, though, I discovered that there was a zero missing in the middle of the VIN number on the title (two zeroes in a row on the car's VIN plate).? So, I did all the due diligence research, proving that there couldn't have been a car with that VIN as shown on the title.? The prefixes had to have been different for a serial number that short, and so this had to be a transcription error, not a stolen car. To no avail.? Bureaucratic turgidity and turbidity being what they are, I was told that they don't match, so, no title.? (In the late `80s, apparently the FBI got on NM's case for being too lax in titling cars stolen in Texas and Oklahoma and, ever since, they've been absolutely cranky about numbers matching.? When I titled the VW bus here in 1990, they made me prove that the VIN tag hadn't been forged--on a funky 1968 VW bus!--fortunately, I knew where the VIN was stamped into the frame and could show them.) The error, at the least, went back to a titling in Connecticut, but, the trail stopped there.? Had to appear in person to make an inquiry, and just didn't have time or money for that at the time. Cheers. > > Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS BWS?? Wasn't that Michael Martin Murphey? -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Fri Nov 8 05:15:07 2019 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 12:15:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net>, <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> Message-ID: The typical state, and national, government employee/department, knee jerk reaction when they encounter something they have no answer for and no one to tell them what to do, is to simply deny permission/approval, whatever. This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. In the private sector just the opposite is true. Analyze the problem. Determine a solution. Implement it. Find a way to deal with and/or prevent a recurrence and move on. Store the solution for future reference. This why the private sector is always more efficient than government will ever be. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A 1960 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Randall Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 10:25:16 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs I suspect it depends a lot on which clerk you get at the DMV. There are a lot of special rules for old cars, which the average clerk doesn?t seem to know much about (nor often their supervisor). The TR3A I bought around 1983 was an LO car, but the original paperwork had the wrong number entirely. Not sure how that happened, but no one noticed for many years until the state started automatically matching insurance policies to registrations. Even then, the DMV didn?t care, it was just a hassle having to take in proof of insurance to get my registration. I finally took them the car, showed the commission plate, and they wrote a new title with -LO on it. More recently, I bought a 56 TR3 that came with California ?black plates?. I wanted to keep the black plates on the car, but the DMV clerk insisted on writing up the paperwork under the ?Year of Manufacture? provision, which I told her did not apply to my car. (Black plates didn?t come out until 1963.} Of course Sacramento denied the application. I went back to the DMV quoting chapter and verse from the vehicle code, spoke to the branch supervisor and waited several hours before they finally admitted they did not know how to handle my application. They eventually let me fill out a blank ?statement of facts? and sent that to Sacramento (who approved my black plates). The federal standards defining ?VIN? didn?t come out until 1981, so they don?t apply to our cars. That?s why we don?t have 17 letters and numbers, and can have ?O?. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 8 05:49:17 2019 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 07:49:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Forum Gone Message-ID: <1MTisb-1iKzD63hFt-00U52b@mrelay.perfora.net> I just read over on Facebook that the 6-Pack Forum has been hacked and completely wiped out. Alan posted : Hacked. Everything deleted, including what backups there were. No idea what the vector was. Forum database may be intact - but I won?t be able to look at it until the weekend, at which time I?ll have to go and re-install all the B.B. software. Bob Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 06:33:50 2019 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 08:33:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Forum Gone In-Reply-To: <1MTisb-1iKzD63hFt-00U52b@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <1MTisb-1iKzD63hFt-00U52b@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: Call me naive, perhaps, but I've never understood whatt 'jollies' a hacker gets from such activity. Do they feel some sort of a sense of accomplishment? Dave On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 7:49 AM Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > I just read over on Facebook that the 6-Pack Forum has been hacked and > completely wiped out. Alan posted : Hacked. Everything deleted, including > what backups there were. No idea what the vector was. > > Forum database may be intact - but I won?t be able to look at it until the > weekend, at which time I?ll have to go and re-install all the B.B. software. > > > > Bob > > > > Bob Danielson > TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 07:37:02 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 09:37:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote: > > This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority > when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault > to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been > assigned can they move forward on a solution. > > With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Fri Nov 8 08:12:50 2019 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 15:12:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> , Message-ID: Sorry Jeff, I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being more specific. When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years in, and many hospitals, it is all too frequently the very first, overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who committed, and is responsible for, the error before resolving the issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate sector were identified, resolved and everyone just moved on. Most of the time you never knew who created them, only that it was an issue to be resolved. Randall Reihing ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. > wrote: This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Nov 8 09:03:42 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 09:03:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting? TR7? Message-ID: <281e96f0-e46b-31b7-f2aa-dd0f825f7ddf@bradakis.com> Seen in a local Salt Lake City classified ad.? Like I need another project! https://cars.ksl.com/listing/6012815?ad_cid=3 mjb. From elliottr at rmi.net Fri Nov 8 10:00:53 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 11:00:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> Message-ID: That is different than the company I worked for.? They always wanted to put the blame on someone. On 11/8/19 9:12 AM, Reihing, Randall S. wrote: > > Sorry?Jeff,?I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being > more specific. ?When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years > in, and many hospitals,?it is all too frequently the > very?first,?overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who > committed, and is responsible for, the error before?resolving the > issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate > sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before > resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate > sector?were identified,?resolved and everyone?just moved on. Most of > the time you never knew who created them, only that?it was an issue to > be resolved. > > > Randall Reihing > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs on behalf of Jeff > Scarbrough > *Sent:* Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM > *To:* Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) > *Subject:* Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs > > > On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. > > wrote: > > > This?i because in all government offices the primary overriding > priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all > else, assign fault to someone. Not until that?fault/responsibility > for the issue has been assigned can they?move forward on a solution. > > > > > With all due respect, and completely off topic:? As a government > employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd > narrow your brush there a bit. > > ?Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Nov 8 11:18:33 2019 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 10:18:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <002701d59660$eeb65050$cc22f0f0$@net> I?ve worked in some of the largest and smallest companies and spent many years as a government employee. I didn?t see any difference in people?s willingness to accept responsibility or search for a resolution. There are good and bad in all organizations. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Friday, November 08, 2019 6:37 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. wrote: This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Nov 8 11:37:02 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 11:37:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Forum Gone In-Reply-To: <1MTisb-1iKzD63hFt-00U52b@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <1MTisb-1iKzD63hFt-00U52b@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: On 11/8/19 5:49 AM, Bob Danielson wrote: > > I just read over on Facebook that the 6-Pack Forum has been hacked and > completely wiped out. Alan posted : Hacked. Everything deleted, > including what backups there were. No idea what the vector was. > > Forum database may be intact - but I won?t be able to look at it until > the weekend, at which time I?ll have to go and re-install all the B.B. > software. > > Bob > Ouch.? Team Net has certainly been the target of many attacks over the nearly thirty years it has been online.? But this does remind me I've been meaning to pick up a new back up drive to supplement those already on hand so I can stash all the server info in a safe place.? I hear there are now 4 - 5 terabyte units available, one of those should hold a few snapshots of current mailing list and website data.? Total disk space used by the server is about 500 gigs. And if the info is sitting on a shelf on a USB hard drive not connected to the network in any way whatsoever, no chance of getting destroyed by hackers. And just in case you are wondering, the autox server has had 2,317 failed root login attempts so far this month. So yes, it is a constant threat to the 39 currently active lists I host. Your concerned, over paid and underworked list admin, mjb. From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 12:56:27 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 14:56:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats Message-ID: <02bc01d5966e$9bd27e50$d3777af0$@gmail.com> I have a set of either 4 or 4a or 250 seats that I want to use in my early 4. The TR3 early 4 seats sit me up too high and are bouncey as all can be. The late4 /4a seats with rubber diaphragm much more comfortable and sit lower in car. Are there any differences in the seat frame from the late 4 / 4a /250 seats? I know the upholstery is different. I'd like to install 4a seat foam and upholstery but want to make sure the frames are standard. Thanks, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 one of the last built in October before shutdown is on its way to my garage From wbeech at flash.net Fri Nov 8 13:00:07 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 14:00:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Alumimium Heads References: <000601d5966f$1ed21b80$5c765280$.ref@flash.net> Message-ID: <000601d5966f$1ed21b80$5c765280$@flash.net> Just watched an interesting video on the rise and fall of the Triumph Stag. One of the comments was the need for special coolant due to their aluminium heads. Never gave it much thought but my TR3 came to me with alumimium heads and I have always just used the regular antifreeze 50/50 from my local FLAPS. Should I be doing something different, getting ready to winterize the fleet. Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Fri Nov 8 16:41:06 2019 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 15:41:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0e96511b-8671-85cd-854f-d46a291bc771@verizon.net> Obviously he does NOT work for any govt office. (DMV maybe at best?) Ditto on Jeff's response. Efforts are rarely spent defining blame. No time, no funds to do so. ptegler On 11/8/2019 6:37 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > > On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. > > wrote: > > > This??i because in all government offices the primary overriding > priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all > else, assign fault to someone. Not until that??fault/responsibility > for the issue has been assigned can they??move forward on a solution. > > > > > With all due respect, and completely off topic:?? As a government > employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd > narrow your brush there a bit. > > ??Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Nov 8 15:55:15 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 17:55:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats In-Reply-To: <02bc01d5966e$9bd27e50$d3777af0$@gmail.com> References: <02bc01d5966e$9bd27e50$d3777af0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002101d59687$96bd5700$c4380500$@uprichard.net> Jim: I can't answer your question of whether the frames are standard, but when I was restoring my TR4 I had no seats - but I did have a set of nice TR250 seats. They dropped right in and are a great ride. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 2:56 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats I have a set of either 4 or 4a or 250 seats that I want to use in my early 4. The TR3 early 4 seats sit me up too high and are bouncey as all can be. The late4 /4a seats with rubber diaphragm much more comfortable and sit lower in car. Are there any differences in the seat frame from the late 4 / 4a /250 seats? I know the upholstery is different. I'd like to install 4a seat foam and upholstery but want to make sure the frames are standard. Thanks, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 one of the last built in October before shutdown is on its way to my garage ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Nov 8 16:16:05 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 18:16:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR5 parts for sale Message-ID: <002801d5968a$7f962fe0$7ec28fa0$@uprichard.net> As some of you know, I recently bought the TR5 out of Charles Runyan's estate. The car was restored in 2013 with upgraded rods and pistons, but had an issue with the rocker arm and was sidelined. Charles had the engine pulled as he intended to restore it to originality. I have the original block, original rods and standard pistons which I intend to use on the car. So I have a set of Carillo rods and Weisco pistons (+40) with 1000 miles on them. I also have a set of lightened rods for what it is worth. I have the block which took the +40 pistons, a head (not a TR5 head, but a PI head with the intake ports separated by 900 thou) and a crank (+20, +10 but in need of a regrind). I think this this was the original crank from the car which was replaced in 2012. If anyone is interested in any of these parts, please contact me off-line. I also posted this on The Triumph Experience, as I heard there was an issue with 6-pack. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 17:00:39 2019 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 18:00:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats In-Reply-To: <002101d59687$96bd5700$c4380500$@uprichard.net> References: <02bc01d5966e$9bd27e50$d3777af0$@gmail.com> <002101d59687$96bd5700$c4380500$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: The TR250 seats are different than the 4A seats, with a more complicated frame with a side bolster support, but I think they all attach the same way to the seat slider with the two bolts for a pivot in front. Greg Lemon TR250 On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 4:54 PM Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Jim: I can't answer your question of whether the frames are standard, but > when I was restoring my TR4 I had no seats - but I did have a set of nice > TR250 seats. They dropped right in and are a great ride. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim > Henningsen > Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 2:56 PM > To: 'Triumphs' > Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats > > I have a set of either 4 or 4a or 250 seats that I want to use in my early > 4. The TR3 early 4 seats sit me up too high and are bouncey as all can be. > The late4 /4a seats with rubber diaphragm much more comfortable and sit > lower in car. Are there any differences in the seat frame from the late 4 > / > 4a /250 seats? I know the upholstery is different. I'd like to install 4a > seat foam and upholstery but want to make sure the frames are standard. > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 one of the last built in October before shutdown is on its way to my > garage > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Nov 8 17:24:51 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 19:24:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> , Message-ID: <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> Okay. You're both right. On topic, sorta, and too shameless self-promotion. I also spent 26 years as a Director of poverty programs leading government programs. Randall actually helped me once with a transportation issue I was having for welfare clients we were putting into work activities. My book on exactly how government policy is set, is now out on Amazon: "Gaudy Baubles and Fartworms: an insiders guide to welfare." Now, on to Triumphs. What is the latest thoughts on hardening seat valves in a TR3? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On November 8, 2019 at 10:12 AM "Reihing, Randall S." wrote: > > Sorry Jeff, I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being more specific. When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years in, and many hospitals, it is all too frequently the very first, overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who committed, and is responsible for, the error before resolving the issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate sector were identified, resolved and everyone just moved on. Most of the time you never knew who created them, only that it was an issue to be resolved. > > Randall Reihing > > --------------------------------------------- > From: Triumphs on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough > Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM > To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs > > > > On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu > wrote: > > > > > > This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. > > > > > > > > > With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Nov 8 17:57:43 2019 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 16:57:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> , <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <000001d59698$b3830040$1a8900c0$@cox.net> OK Terry, I?ll bite. Your title has me interested. Is this something that is an interesting read for the curious or is it something dull and academic. I ask, because I have many friends who write and publish, and lots of it is only for a really narrow group of folks in a really small peer group. I?m always happy to get a new book, I just like to ask so that I don?t get deep into 1,000 pages about the size of fiber in paper over the ages or drainage studies. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 4:25 PM To: Reihing, Randall S. ; Jeff Scarbrough ; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs Okay. You're both right. On topic, sorta, and too shameless self-promotion. I also spent 26 years as a Director of poverty programs leading government programs. Randall actually helped me once with a transportation issue I was having for welfare clients we were putting into work activities. My book on exactly how government policy is set, is now out on Amazon: "Gaudy Baubles and Fartworms: an insiders guide to welfare." Now, on to Triumphs. What is the latest thoughts on hardening seat valves in a TR3? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire On November 8, 2019 at 10:12 AM "Reihing, Randall S." > wrote: Sorry Jeff, I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being more specific. When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years in, and many hospitals, it is all too frequently the very first, overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who committed, and is responsible for, the error before resolving the issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate sector were identified, resolved and everyone just moved on. Most of the time you never knew who created them, only that it was an issue to be resolved. Randall Reihing _____ From: Triumphs > on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough > Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net ) > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu > wrote: This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Nov 8 21:38:40 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 23:38:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <000001d59698$b3830040$1a8900c0$@cox.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> , <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> <000001d59698$b3830040$1a8900c0$@cox.net> Message-ID: <1198082812.267383.1573274322011@connect.xfinity.com> Thank you to all who replied. I guess I'd better not bog down the List with this, just will add it's not a statistical manure pile. You can read a descripion on Amazon, where the publisher has posted the advance copy (expect a few typos until they finish edits). Honestly, restoring and driving the TR3 these past 15 years has been what kept me sane, thanks in no small part due to you all. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire > On November 8, 2019 at 7:57 PM jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > > OK Terry, > > > > I?ll bite. > > > > Your title has me interested. > > > > Is this something that is an interesting read for the curious or is it something dull and academic. > > > > I ask, because I have many friends who write and publish, and lots of it is only for a really narrow group of folks in a really small peer group. > > > > I?m always happy to get a new book, I just like to ask so that I don?t get deep into 1,000 pages about the size of fiber in paper over the ages or drainage studies. > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH > Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 4:25 PM > To: Reihing, Randall S. ; Jeff Scarbrough ; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs > > > > Okay. You're both right. On topic, sorta, and too shameless self-promotion. I also spent 26 years as a Director of poverty programs leading government programs. Randall actually helped me once with a transportation issue I was having for welfare clients we were putting into work activities. > > > > My book on exactly how government policy is set, is now out on Amazon: "Gaudy Baubles and Fartworms: an insiders guide to welfare." > > > > Now, on to Triumphs. What is the latest thoughts on hardening seat valves in a TR3? > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > > > > > > > > > > > > On November 8, 2019 at 10:12 AM "Reihing, Randall S." wrote: > > > > Sorry Jeff, I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being more specific. When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years in, and many hospitals, it is all too frequently the very first, overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who committed, and is responsible for, the error before resolving the issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate sector were identified, resolved and everyone just moved on. Most of the time you never knew who created them, only that it was an issue to be resolved. > > > > Randall Reihing > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > > From: Triumphs on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough > > Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM > > To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ) > > Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > This i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they move forward on a solution. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > With all due respect, and completely off topic: As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit. > > > > > > > > Jeff Scarbrough > > > > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 8 23:30:26 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 00:30:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Alumimium Heads In-Reply-To: <000601d5966f$1ed21b80$5c765280$@flash.net> References: <000601d5966f$1ed21b80$5c765280$.ref@flash.net> <000601d5966f$1ed21b80$5c765280$@flash.net> Message-ID: Aluminum heads are commonplace these days; any quality antifreeze will have the additives to protect aluminum. But be sure to follow the recommended change intervals, as the additives do wear out with time, even if the car is never driven. There is some debate over whether ?Dexcool? type antifreeze is good for old engines; I don?t know how much is true and how much is urban legend. But I don?t use it myself. -- Randall From: wbeech Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 2:00 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: [TR] Alumimium Heads Just watched an interesting video on the rise and fall of the Triumph Stag.? One of the comments was the need for special coolant due to their aluminium heads.?? Never gave it much thought but my TR3 came to me with alumimium heads and I have always just used the regular antifreeze 50/50 from my local FLAPS.? Should I be doing something different, getting ready to winterize the fleet. Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 05:11:29 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 07:11:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks. I?m going to assume these are 4 or 4a and see about installing the 4a kit. Jim Sent from my iPad > On Nov 8, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > > ? > The TR250 seats are different than the 4A seats, with a more complicated frame with a side bolster support, but I think they all attach the same way to the seat slider with the two bolts for a pivot in front. > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > >> On Fri, Nov 8, 2019, 4:54 PM Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> Jim: I can't answer your question of whether the frames are standard, but >> when I was restoring my TR4 I had no seats - but I did have a set of nice >> TR250 seats. They dropped right in and are a great ride. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim >> Henningsen >> Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 2:56 PM >> To: 'Triumphs' >> Subject: [TR] Tr4 4A Seats >> >> I have a set of either 4 or 4a or 250 seats that I want to use in my early >> 4. The TR3 early 4 seats sit me up too high and are bouncey as all can be. >> The late4 /4a seats with rubber diaphragm much more comfortable and sit >> lower in car. Are there any differences in the seat frame from the late 4 / >> 4a /250 seats? I know the upholstery is different. I'd like to install 4a >> seat foam and upholstery but want to make sure the frames are standard. >> Thanks, >> Jim Henningsen >> 61 TR3A >> 62 TR4 >> 75 TR6 >> 81 TR8 one of the last built in October before shutdown is on its way to my >> garage >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 9 06:53:30 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 13:53:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs References: <352672707.1204309.1573307610791.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <352672707.1204309.1573307610791@mail.yahoo.com> Obligatory political comment:? Generalities (eg: all government agencies are bumblers and all private enterprises are well run) are based on anecdotal evidence and usually fall apart upon closer inspection.? The correct answer to most questions is "It depends." There, done. I don't know about the TR3 head but I had my TR6 head shaved but ran with stock valve seats.? Very soon there after I found I was suffering from valve seat recession in all the exhaust valves.? Intakes were not problem.? Too late as it turned out and one cylinder in particular was not getting compression anymore.? I figured that some day I will address this but didn't feel like pulling the head at this time. Then the head gasket blew. $600 later I have a reworked head with hardened seats.? What a difference having all six cylinders work makes. Yet another anecdote. Dave -----Original Message----- From: TERRY SMITH To: Reihing, Randall S. ; Jeff Scarbrough ; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: Fri, Nov 8, 2019 6:25 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs Okay.? You're both right.? On topic, sorta, and too shameless self-promotion.? I also spent 26 years as a Director of poverty programs leading government programs. Randall actually helped me once with a transportation issue I was having for welfare clients we were putting into work activities.?? My book on exactly how government policy is set, is now out on Amazon:? "Gaudy Baubles and Fartworms:? an insiders guide to welfare." Now, on to Triumphs.? What is the latest thoughts on hardening seat valves in a TR3? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire On November 8, 2019 at 10:12 AM "Reihing, Randall S." wrote: Sorry?Jeff,?I know some are very good, and I apologize for not being more specific. ?When it comes to the academic arena I spent 37 years in, and many hospitals,?it is all too frequently the very?first,?overriding, priority. Make sure everyone understands who committed, and is responsible for, the error before?resolving the issue. With 11 full-time and 12 part-time years in the corporate sector it was very rare to encounter the same priority before resolving the issue. Mistakes, or procedural errors, in the corporate sector?were identified,?resolved and everyone?just moved on. Most of the time you never knew who created them, only that?it was an issue to be resolved.? Randall Reihing From: Triumphs on behalf of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 9:37:02 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs ? On Fri, Nov 8, 2019 at 7:15 AM Reihing, Randall S. < Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote: This?i because in all government offices the primary overriding priority when a problem is encountered is to first, and above all else, assign fault to someone. Not until that?fault/responsibility for the issue has been assigned can they?move forward on a solution. With all due respect, and completely off topic:? As a government employee charged with solving problems, I'd appreciate it if you'd narrow your brush there a bit.?? ?Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 9 08:22:45 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2019 09:22:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Valve seats (was VIN) In-Reply-To: <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> <36bb83ff-7c9a-8d70-1bc8-cb610c2f5057@earthlink.net> <20191108032523.B027FA0493@autox.team.net> , <1582558460.259675.1573259091533@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <591798A5-657A-4F7C-91B5-E9A87FC8EF82@ca.rr.com> > Now, on to Triumphs.? What is the latest thoughts on hardening seat valves > in a TR3? Hasn't changed, IMO. Most of the time, it's not necessary if the engine has run on leaded in the past, and the seats haven't been reground. I wouldn't pull the head just to install hardened seats, unless the lash keeps closing up on the exhaust valves. But if you are going to grind the exhaust seats, which would remove the lead-infused layer of steel, then having hardened seats installed makes sense to me. Still not a guarantee (I've got a head on the shelf with badly recessed inserts), but what Deere calls "best practice". https://i.imgur.com/BVKvsV4.jpg As far as " business good, government bad", its like comparing moldy oranges to rotten apples. Personally, I'm really glad our government isn't run like the place up the street, which has had something like 5 different businesses in the past 10 years. Just think for a moment about every dollar you own suddenly becoming like a gift card to Montgomery Wards. I've got a whole box of "hard" currency from around the world, and most of it is worthless as money. Not to mention the medical bill my late wife ran up before she passed. I'll never forget the insurance agent admitting he had known for months that they were not going to pay, but didn't want to tell me. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com Wed Nov 6 15:08:45 2019 From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 22:08:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] VINs In-Reply-To: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> References: <006b01d594e6$fa6eec20$ef4cc460$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew, I have seen many mangled "VIN Numbers" on vintage car titles. Apparently when DMV's across the country became computerized, there was no standard on how to input 17 digits in on a title for a car with a 4 or 5 digit serial number. The solution for my 1960 Morgan registered in Hawaii was to insert 13 zeros in front of the 4 digit serial number. I had a 1964 AH 3000 with a CA title that was AHEALEYBJ then the body tag number Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 We have Moved! Our new offices are locted at: 3191 E. Warm Springs Rd. #13 Las Vegas, NV 89120 From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 1:13 PM To: 'Triumphs' ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] VINs I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended "LO", but I was told that "Os" and "Is" are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to "L0". Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with "L0". Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 07:59:22 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 08:59:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <63725092.53649.1573132447139@connect.xfinity.com> References: <63725092.53649.1573132447139@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <799C2FAF-3C16-4DA7-AD0B-C6D66E920432@flash.net> Recently went through the ?no-title-title? process in Texas. Trailered the car three hours away to have a special DPS officer look at the engine number and give me a form, 5 minutes. Don?t know the reasoning, didn?t ask questions, but in Texas they title from the engine number in cars 1954 and older except for Fords. IMHO when it comes to older cars, most DMV systems have a way to work around the variants, i.e. 0 v O. Just don?t go to the wrong window at the wrong office on the wrong day. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:14 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? An agency that records VIN's, doesn't accept a legitimate VIN???? Why am I reminded of the man who had to prove to the Social Security Administration that he wasn't dead? --Terry Smith > On November 7, 2019 at 7:43 AM Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > That?s the whole point. And there is also the insurance company?s note ? should it have what is on the vin plate or what in on the title?\ > > > > But you are in Ohio, Randall ? maybe they are more understanding there !! > > Andrew > > Jackson, Michigan ? where the ?law? is: no ?Os? on titles > > > > From: Reihing, Randall S. [mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu] > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 7:28 AM > To: Brian Kemp; Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs' > Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? > > > > Randall Reihing > > 1960 TR3A > > 1959 TR3A > > From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 7 07:59:22 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 08:59:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: VINs In-Reply-To: <63725092.53649.1573132447139@connect.xfinity.com> References: <63725092.53649.1573132447139@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <799C2FAF-3C16-4DA7-AD0B-C6D66E920432@flash.net> Recently went through the ?no-title-title? process in Texas. Trailered the car three hours away to have a special DPS officer look at the engine number and give me a form, 5 minutes. Don?t know the reasoning, didn?t ask questions, but in Texas they title from the engine number in cars 1954 and older except for Fords. IMHO when it comes to older cars, most DMV systems have a way to work around the variants, i.e. 0 v O. Just don?t go to the wrong window at the wrong office on the wrong day. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:14 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? An agency that records VIN's, doesn't accept a legitimate VIN???? Why am I reminded of the man who had to prove to the Social Security Administration that he wasn't dead? --Terry Smith > On November 7, 2019 at 7:43 AM Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > That?s the whole point. And there is also the insurance company?s note ? should it have what is on the vin plate or what in on the title?\ > > > > But you are in Ohio, Randall ? maybe they are more understanding there !! > > Andrew > > Jackson, Michigan ? where the ?law? is: no ?Os? on titles > > > > From: Reihing, Randall S. [mailto:Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu] > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 7:28 AM > To: Brian Kemp; Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs' > Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > How does changing the "O" to a "0" on the paper title, match the "O" on the riveted metal plate still on the car itself? How is it legal to have a title with a VIN that does not match the VIN on the vehicle's riveted metal plate? > > > > Randall Reihing > > 1960 TR3A > > 1959 TR3A > > From: Triumphs on behalf of Brian Kemp > Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 8:50:45 PM > To: Andrew Uprichard ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] VINs > > > > My California TR6 title also ends L0 - L zero. I told them it should be an Oh for Overdrive, but they said I couldn't have an Oh and I was wrong. Not worth having an argument with the DMV. The insurance company was fine with whatever the title said. > > Brian > > On 11/6/2019 1:13 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > I just went to get a title on a TR which came with a factory overdrive. The old title appropriately ended ?LO?, but I was told that ?Os? and ?Is? are no longer acceptable in titles. So I had to change the VIN (on the title) to ?L0?. Then I had to call the insurance company to explain the same story to them and have them send me a proof of insurance with ?L0?. > > > > Anyone else come across this? Maybe it has been going on for years: I have 4 cars with overdrive, but this was the first factory one. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, MI > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sat Nov 9 16:21:21 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 17:21:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lucas LR6 Amber References: <000b01d59754$69a22a20$3ce67e60$.ref@flash.net> Message-ID: <000b01d59754$69a22a20$3ce67e60$@flash.net> Might anyone have a replacement Lucas sealed beam sitting on the shelf? It is an LR 6 in amber/yellow color. Don't need a fixture, just the bulb. Thanks, Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Nov 10 12:07:56 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 14:07:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Distributor rebuild Message-ID: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> Question. What's the name of a good dizzy rebuilder again? (I've sent two off in the past but for the life of me can't find the receipts.) Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Nov 10 12:20:16 2019 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 14:20:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Distributor rebuild In-Reply-To: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <86f42a3a-c584-4243-fa8d-9dd5b23709b6@adelphia.net> Terry, Advanced Distributors. http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/ Bob On 11/10/19 2:07 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > Question.? What's the name of a good dizzy rebuilder again?? (I've > sent two off in the past but for the life of me can't find the receipts.) > > Thanks, > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hamsphire > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 10 12:33:05 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 13:33:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Distributor rebuild In-Reply-To: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <30551374-6EFC-45C4-946A-B14BE352A088@flash.net> Are you thinking of Jeff at Advanced Distributors? Good guy http://advanceddistributors.com/ NFI, Bill B Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 10, 2019, at 1:08 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? Question. What's the name of a good dizzy rebuilder again? (I've sent two off in the past but for the life of me can't find the receipts.) Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 10 12:33:05 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 13:33:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Distributor rebuild In-Reply-To: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <30551374-6EFC-45C4-946A-B14BE352A088@flash.net> Are you thinking of Jeff at Advanced Distributors? Good guy http://advanceddistributors.com/ NFI, Bill B Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > On Nov 10, 2019, at 1:08 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? Question. What's the name of a good dizzy rebuilder again? (I've sent two off in the past but for the life of me can't find the receipts.) Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Nov 10 16:12:13 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 18:12:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Distributor rebuild In-Reply-To: <30551374-6EFC-45C4-946A-B14BE352A088@flash.net> References: <1150137560.271455.1573412876513@connect.xfinity.com> <30551374-6EFC-45C4-946A-B14BE352A088@flash.net> Message-ID: <538057881.262658.1573427533652@connect.xfinity.com> Yep. That's the one. Thank you, everyone! > On November 10, 2019 at 2:33 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" wrote: > > Are you thinking of Jeff at Advanced Distributors? Good guy > > http://advanceddistributors.com/ > > NFI, > Bill B > > Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS > > > > > On Nov 10, 2019, at 1:08 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > > > > > > > Question. What's the name of a good dizzy rebuilder again? (I've sent two off in the past but for the life of me can't find the receipts.) > > Thanks, > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hamsphire > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Nov 10 17:58:47 2019 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 19:58:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun Message-ID: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Sun Nov 10 18:06:16 2019 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 17:06:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <8CBCC546-B447-4FDB-9580-2B46F6630DC0@mac.com> I?m not home right now to check the brand, coming back from sports bar after watching the Packer game, but I think mine is the Husky brand from Home Depot. I haven?t tried painting a car but I did paint my utility trailer and it turned out great. Definitely get something to can practice on, once you get the hang of it it?s pretty easy and you should be happy with the results. Similar to painting a house most of the time, labor and good results is all in the preparation. Rye Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 10, 2019, at 4:59 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > > ? > I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) > > I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. > > Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 10 18:07:31 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 17:07:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <437610f5-62a4-9efc-765b-2ba653dc579f@earthlink.net> This one is well rated for only $10 this weekend. https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-HVLP-Gravity-Feed-Air-Spray-Gun-62300.html On 11/10/2019 4:58 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans.? (The > guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm > restoring.) > > I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint > gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting > happens.? I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, > something like that. > > Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do > at my age???? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Sun Nov 10 18:11:05 2019 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 17:11:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <437610f5-62a4-9efc-765b-2ba653dc579f@earthlink.net> References: <437610f5-62a4-9efc-765b-2ba653dc579f@earthlink.net> Message-ID: This kit is what I have https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-HVLP-and-Standard-Gravity-Feed-Spray-Gun-Kit-HDK00600SG/203497812 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 10, 2019, at 5:07 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > ? This one is well rated for only $10 this weekend. > https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-HVLP-Gravity-Feed-Air-Spray-Gun-62300.html > > On 11/10/2019 4:58 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: >> I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) >> >> I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. >> >> Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? >> >> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A >> New Hampshire >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Sun Nov 10 18:23:02 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 20:23:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 7:59 PM TERRY SMITH wrote: > > Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at > my age???? > > Another vote for the Harbor Freight gun. I don't know if you can get a $6,000 paint job out of it, but you can get a normal household paint job pretty easily. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pryner at outlook.com Sun Nov 10 18:31:58 2019 From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 01:31:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: I?m certainly not an expert but I believe an HPLV gun will deliver a nice spray with much less overspray. You also want to make sure you have a good water separator on your air system as water will definitely ruin the paint. Take a look at the systems available at Eastwood. They seem to have quality items. Pete From: Triumphs On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 7:59 PM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 10 20:14:21 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:14:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <8392486F-49B4-44A9-A4DA-EDABA30D9795@flash.net> As for process, watch a few YouTube videos on the subject before you start to see the technique. I painted my last TR3 frame with a $10 HF gun and paint from Tractor Supply, went quite well. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 10, 2019, at 6:59 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 10 20:14:21 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:14:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <8392486F-49B4-44A9-A4DA-EDABA30D9795@flash.net> As for process, watch a few YouTube videos on the subject before you start to see the technique. I painted my last TR3 frame with a $10 HF gun and paint from Tractor Supply, went quite well. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 10, 2019, at 6:59 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > ? I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 11 12:01:09 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 13:01:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Non-TR anyone near Daytona Beach, FL? References: <000201d598c2$61d1bb70$25753250$.ref@flash.net> Message-ID: <000201d598c2$61d1bb70$25753250$@flash.net> Looking at a Land Rover on eBay, is there anyone near Daytona Beach that would not mind taking a look at it on my behalf? Don't necessarily need to be an LR expert, just a quick drive though the gears and 4x4, look for rust and corrosion in all the usual places. Happy to reimburse for time and fuel costs. Cheers, Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From daveg at online.no Mon Nov 11 16:46:26 2019 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 00:46:26 +0100 Subject: [TR] Pneumatic paint gun In-Reply-To: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1691849976.169198.1573433927590@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <4BEB580B-9650-4501-943E-C56660FDDC26@online.no> > On 11 Nov 2019, at 1:58, TERRY SMITH wrote: > > I may be tackling my first paint job not using aerosol cans. (The guinea pig I'll be practicing on is a 1954 Ford Jubilee tractor I'm restoring.) > > I have an 80 gallon Husky air compressor that should handle a paint gun readily enough. But I have no idea how that kind of painting happens. I suspect a gun with a resevoir to hod a pint of paint, something like that. > > Any recommendations for a paint gun that won't dribble more that I do at my age???? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A Are you painting from bare metal and up, or just a respray? It depends on the quality of the job you want to do. It?s not just the gun. There is also (1) removal of oil droplets and water in your compressed air, (2) pressure control and (3) consistent and correct viscosity. Viscosity For a beginner, I would definitely buy a Ford 4 cup (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Paint-Viscosity-Cup-Ford-4/332113021733?hash=item4d537a8b25:g:uZ0AAOSwax5YwmeM ). They cost almost nothing. You dilute the paint, fill up the cup and let it empty and count the seconds. For surfacer, primer, etc I would use a gun with a 1.8mm nozzle and then your paint should take like 35 - 45 seconds to empty. For topcoat you would use a gun with 1.2 - 1.3mm, and then you woiuld dilute more so it takes about 17 seconds to empty. So I would say buy two guns or one gun iwth two caps/nozzles (1.8 and 1.3mm). I would definitely buy HVLP and set it at 27 - 29psi. the overspray is just so much less. It?s very personal, which gun. I have no experience with harbour freight, but when starting out I used the TCP-Global guns (https://tcpglobal.com/collections/spray-guns-gravity-feed ). On that page you will see for example a 1.3 gun and a 1.8 cap/nozzle, so you don?t need to buy two separate guns. Also filters for the paint (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H7PEHEK?ref=em_1p_5_ti&ref_=pe_12416790_393974040 ). Now I use a Sharpe Finex FX3000 which I love - it?s middle of the range in price. Regardless definitely get a gravity-feed gun with the cup at the top. If you really want the best finish and decide to spray layers of putty that you then sand off again, you will also also need a cheapie gun with a 2.5mm nozzle. Since you are sanding it down you don?t need to spend a lot of money on this gun. Pressure control and filter All car supplies places have these fairly cheap. You should set a long length of hose from your compressor and then put the pressure control in the line, nailed to a post or something. Then a further line to your gun. A long line from the compressor allows water in the air to condense before it gets to the pressure control, which usually also has a water trap, and for the more expensive ones, an oil trap. The pressure control allows you to dial the 27-29psi. Ideally you have a pressure gauge at the gun, but if not and you use the gauge on the pressure control, there is usally a 3 - 4 psi drop between the two. You dial in the pressure you want while holding the gun trigger half open so air only comes out of hte gun. So the trick is consistency and to alter as little as possible between attempts, such as paint flow nozzle or spray width nozzle on the gun. If viscosity and pressure is always identical you will have a better chance. I didn?t mean to write so much, but the thing is the gun is only the tiny bit of a paint job you can be happy with even as a beginner. Actually I would recommend the excellent series of How to paint your car videos from Eastwood on You Tube, about 15 or so, with Kevin Tetz. You can start here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_9WQmicyJU . Have fun - Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Mon Nov 11 18:00:23 2019 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:00:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Cylinder Head Message-ID: <000001d598f4$917abd40$b47037c0$@cox.net> List, A friend of mine has a TR3 he is restoring that apparently the head is "too far gone" to repair. If anybody has one that is either serviceable or reconditioned, please contact me via email. jpaynepbr at cox.net Thanks, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 07:12:59 2019 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:12:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jan Pearce's 1955 Le Mans ex-works TR2 PKV 374 sells for $322k Message-ID: The late Jan Pearce's lovely TR2 from the 1955 factory team at Le Mans sold by Silverstone Auctions at the NEC Classic Motor Show in Birmingham last week. The buyer is reportedly an American who will keep the car based in England. That's a pretty good price for a TR, eh? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2019/09/0200/Exworks-Le-Mans-TR2-for-sale-at-NEC-Classic-Motor-Show https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2019-auctions/nec-classic-motor-show-sale-2019 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 12 08:07:18 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:07:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jan Pearce's 1955 Le Mans ex-works TR2 PKV 374 sells for $322k In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <696C88BD-6757-4F80-B70D-24965528DAB2@flash.net> Hello Goodwood Revival! Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 12, 2019, at 8:13 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > ? The late Jan Pearce's lovely TR2 from the 1955 factory team at Le Mans sold by Silverstone Auctions at the NEC Classic Motor Show in Birmingham last week. The buyer is reportedly an American who will keep the car based in England. That's a pretty good price for a TR, eh? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2019/09/0200/Exworks-Le-Mans-TR2-for-sale-at-NEC-Classic-Motor-Show https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2019-auctions/nec-classic-motor-show-sale-2019 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 12 08:07:18 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:07:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jan Pearce's 1955 Le Mans ex-works TR2 PKV 374 sells for $322k In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <696C88BD-6757-4F80-B70D-24965528DAB2@flash.net> Hello Goodwood Revival! Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 12, 2019, at 8:13 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > ? The late Jan Pearce's lovely TR2 from the 1955 factory team at Le Mans sold by Silverstone Auctions at the NEC Classic Motor Show in Birmingham last week. The buyer is reportedly an American who will keep the car based in England. That's a pretty good price for a TR, eh? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2019/09/0200/Exworks-Le-Mans-TR2-for-sale-at-NEC-Classic-Motor-Show https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2019-auctions/nec-classic-motor-show-sale-2019 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From elliottr at rmi.net Tue Nov 12 15:38:29 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 16:38:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> I decided to give up on the issue. There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - about .05 volts as near as I could make out.? It's possible that either the meter or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets.? There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery.? I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the tank mounting bolts). The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals. This is when I decided to give up and just live with it. Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. Thanks for your help. Roger On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: > > Yes, that?s the idea.? You want all the lights on (including turn > signals) during this test. > > What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the > ground path. > > -- Randall > > *From: *Roger Elliott > *Sent: *Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem > > HI Randall, > > Thanks for the information and the tests. > > I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical > trouble shooting ability is very limited. > > This section is also done with the lights on, right?: > > To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the > negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can > connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at > the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 volt > is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem > that could be fixed. > > > Thanks, > Roger > > On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: > > There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn > signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than > the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so > on) at idle.? So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping > from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to? 12.6 > volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re > using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. > > To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then > watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on.? > If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the > turn signals.? The only fix would be to convert to a more modern > alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle.? (I?m not > certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and > fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the > board.? Check with the Jaguar folks.) > > Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so > are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea > where to buy such things.? I made my own using a simple > 2-transistor active current limiter. > > To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the > negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can > connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe > at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? > 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that > represents a problem that could be fixed. > > I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my TR3, all > the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go > into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.? Very insecure, > especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. > > However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground > wire.? So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all > the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the > fuel tank mounting bolts. > > -- Randall > > *From: *Roger Elliott > *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem > > Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the > flasher, > > the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on and > > off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is > > hooked up it does the same thing. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lee at automate-it.com Tue Nov 12 16:47:58 2019 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 17:47:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Jan Pearce's 1955 Le Mans ex-works TR2 PKV 374 sells for $322k In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <54826d295c5025aa4880f281f1be0006.squirrel@automate-it.com> Wow. "All predictions are that the car will reach its guide price of ?100,000 - ?140,000." --- and then it sold for ?258,750 !!! "Well sold" ! Lee On Tue, November 12, 2019 08:12, Don Hiscock wrote: > The late Jan Pearce's lovely TR2 from the 1955 factory team at Le Mans sold > by Silverstone Auctions at the NEC Classic Motor Show in Birmingham last week. > The buyer is reportedly an American who will keep the car based in > England. > > > That's a pretty good price for a TR, eh? > > > https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2019/09/0200/Exworks-Le-Mans-TR2-for-sa > le-at-NEC-Classic-Motor-Show > > https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/events/2019-auctions/nec-classic-motor-sh > ow-sale-2019 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 16:52:21 2019 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 15:52:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly Message-ID: I'm getting old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is. I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Nov 12 20:31:04 2019 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 19:31:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: gotta ask... as I've BTDT.... take a GOOD look at the socket itself. on many, the metal body and the little tang that touches the bulb base are NOT one piece of metal.? Tarnish (read? a? bad connection) can result where they are riveted/in contact with one another. On mine, I ended up taking a small section of 22-24 GA multi-stranded wire and made a loop that wrapped under/behind the tang, with the other end wrapped around one of the fingers that wedge/plug it into the housing to obtain a reliable ground.? I've never has an issue since. ptegler On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: > > I decided to give up on the issue. > > There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - > about .05 volts as near as I could make out.? It's possible that > either the meter or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. > > As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets.? > There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery.? > I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the > tank mounting bolts). > > The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in > opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. > > Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed > the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals.? This is > when I decided to give up and just live with it. > > Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake > lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and > turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. > > Thanks for your help. > Roger > > On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: >> >> Yes, that?s the idea.? You want all the lights on (including turn >> signals) during this test. >> >> What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the >> ground path. >> >> -- Randall >> >> *From: *Roger Elliott >> *Sent: *Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM >> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >> >> HI Randall, >> >> Thanks for the information and the tests. >> >> I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical >> trouble shooting ability is very limited. >> >> This section is also done with the lights on, right?: >> >> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the >> negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can >> connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at >> the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 >> volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a >> problem that could be fixed. >> >> >> Thanks, >> Roger >> >> On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: >> >> There may not be a good solution, Roger.? The incandescent turn >> signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than >> the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so >> on) at idle. So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping >> from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to? 12.6 >> volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re >> using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. >> >> To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then >> watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both >> on.? If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time >> with the turn signals. The only fix would be to convert to a more >> modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I?m >> not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look >> and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across >> the board.? Check with the Jaguar folks.) >> >> Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so >> are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea >> where to buy such things.? I made my own using a simple >> 2-transistor active current limiter. >> >> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the >> negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can >> connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe >> at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? >> 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that >> represents a problem that could be fixed. >> >> I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my TR3, all >> the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which >> go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.? Very insecure, >> especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. >> >> However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground >> wire.? So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all >> the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the >> fuel tank mounting bolts. >> >> -- Randall >> >> *From: *Roger Elliott >> *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM >> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >> >> Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the >> flasher, >> >> the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on >> and >> >> off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is >> >> hooked up it does the same thing. >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Tue Nov 12 18:27:43 2019 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 01:27:43 -0000 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly Message-ID: My brother just scored a used Craftsman motorcycle lift. ?Normally I think it's over $200, he got it for $80. ?This is designed for a street bike. ?I'd think you could also use it to lift the tire, especially if you had the center of the tire straddle the 2 rubber strips in the first photo. What he bought it for: we both have 1963 Porsche 356s we are restoring at the same time, and as you may or may not know,?the engine comes out from below. ?He thought we could both use this to put our engines back in. ?He was blown away that it's a perfect fit to the width of the case?of the engine, see the second pic. So look for a HF version, or a used one on eBay or Craigslist, I think it should work well for taking off a big truck or minivan wheel. Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE On November 12, 2019 at 3:52 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: I'm getting?old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is.? ?I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 356lift.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 434307 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Motorcycle lift.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 137946 bytes Desc: not available URL: From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 12 22:02:08 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 23:02:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002901d599df$80fa1f10$82ee5d30$@flash.net> At $60 when it?s on sale it?s cheaper than a chiropractor. A cheaper solution would be a scissor jack. Bill From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:52 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] self raising dolly I'm getting old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is. I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue Nov 12 22:14:38 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 21:14:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: I seem to remember once upon a time, somebody made a light socket with a ground wire or a ground tab.? I looked a few months ago for my GT6, but couldn't find it at the usual vendors.? I imagine you could add a ground wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so I was looking for new ones that already had the wire. On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to ground. The problem was the connection between the metal base and the metal fingers.? I just hit the area with a wire brush in the Dremel then soldered the two bits together and it fixed that problem. Brian On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: > > I decided to give up on the issue. > > There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - > about .05 volts as near as I could make out.? It's possible that > either the meter or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. > > As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets.? > There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery.? > I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the > tank mounting bolts). > > The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in > opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. > > Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed > the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals.? This is > when I decided to give up and just live with it. > > Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake > lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and > turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. > > Thanks for your help. > Roger > > On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: >> >> Yes, that?s the idea.? You want all the lights on (including turn >> signals) during this test. >> >> What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the >> ground path. >> >> -- Randall >> >> *From: *Roger Elliott >> *Sent: *Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM >> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >> >> HI Randall, >> >> Thanks for the information and the tests. >> >> I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical >> trouble shooting ability is very limited. >> >> This section is also done with the lights on, right?: >> >> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the >> negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can >> connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe at >> the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? 0.2 >> volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a >> problem that could be fixed. >> >> >> Thanks, >> Roger >> >> On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: >> >> There may not be a good solution, Roger.? The incandescent turn >> signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than >> the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so >> on) at idle. So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping >> from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to? 12.6 >> volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re >> using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. >> >> To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then >> watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both >> on.? If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time >> with the turn signals. The only fix would be to convert to a more >> modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I?m >> not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look >> and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across >> the board.? Check with the Jaguar folks.) >> >> Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so >> are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea >> where to buy such things.? I made my own using a simple >> 2-transistor active current limiter. >> >> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the >> negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can >> connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe >> at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? >> 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that >> represents a problem that could be fixed. >> >> I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my TR3, all >> the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which >> go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal.? Very insecure, >> especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. >> >> However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground >> wire.? So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all >> the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the >> fuel tank mounting bolts. >> >> -- Randall >> >> *From: *Roger Elliott >> *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM >> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >> >> Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use the >> flasher, >> >> the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't go on >> and >> >> off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is >> >> hooked up it does the same thing. >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 23:47:04 2019 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:47:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly In-Reply-To: <002901d599df$80fa1f10$82ee5d30$@flash.net> References: <002901d599df$80fa1f10$82ee5d30$@flash.net> Message-ID: Thanks. Just saw something on CL. can use it to install Stag's transmission from below. Sujit On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 9:02 PM wbeech wrote: > At $60 when it?s on sale it?s cheaper than a chiropractor. A cheaper > solution would be a scissor jack. > > Bill > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Sujit > Roy > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:52 PM > *To:* Triumphs > *Subject:* [TR] self raising dolly > > > > I'm getting old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to > remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel > isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is. > > > > I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to > lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a > wheel wheel while it is in the air? > > > > Regards, Sujit > > > > > > -- > > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Nov 13 05:31:20 2019 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 07:31:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: <001f01d59a1e$40d142d0$c273c870$@charter.net> I seem to remember seeing those also, somewhere, some years ago, etc., etc. I can?t tell from the description if the following bulb holders have the grounding tab or not. https://www.spitbits.com/store/51-BULB-HOLDER-STOP-TAIL-LAMP-MK3-GT6-2req--P2247.aspx Alex Thomson ?73 TR6 ?71 GT6 From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Kemp Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 12:15 AM To: Roger Elliott; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem I seem to remember once upon a time, somebody made a light socket with a ground wire or a ground tab. I looked a few months ago for my GT6, but couldn't find it at the usual vendors. I imagine you could add a ground wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so I was looking for new ones that already had the wire. On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to ground. The problem was the connection between the metal base and the metal fingers. I just hit the area with a wire brush in the Dremel then soldered the two bits together and it fixed that problem. Brian On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: I decided to give up on the issue. There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - about .05 volts as near as I could make out. It's possible that either the meter or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets. There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery. I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the tank mounting bolts). The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals. This is when I decided to give up and just live with it. Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. Thanks for your help. Roger On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: Yes, that?s the idea. You want all the lights on (including turn signals) during this test. What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the ground path. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem HI Randall, Thanks for the information and the tests. I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical trouble shooting ability is very limited. This section is also done with the lights on, right?: To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. Thanks, Roger On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on. If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals. The only fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I?m not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the board. Check with the Jaguar folks.) Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such things. I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter. To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired. On my TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal. Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire. So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem Here's the problem. When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher. They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Nov 13 05:37:16 2019 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 07:37:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: <002a01d59a1f$1573c530$405b4f90$@charter.net> Here?s another possibility but the spring tabs may not fit. I didn?t look through their entire catalog so you might find something. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-6042-85860.aspx?origin=keyword Alex Thomson ?73 TR6 ?71 GT6 From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Kemp Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 12:15 AM To: Roger Elliott; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem I seem to remember once upon a time, somebody made a light socket with a ground wire or a ground tab. I looked a few months ago for my GT6, but couldn't find it at the usual vendors. I imagine you could add a ground wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so I was looking for new ones that already had the wire. On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to ground. The problem was the connection between the metal base and the metal fingers. I just hit the area with a wire brush in the Dremel then soldered the two bits together and it fixed that problem. Brian On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: I decided to give up on the issue. There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - about .05 volts as near as I could make out. It's possible that either the meter or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets. There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery. I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the tank mounting bolts). The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals. This is when I decided to give up and just live with it. Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. Thanks for your help. Roger On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: Yes, that?s the idea. You want all the lights on (including turn signals) during this test. What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the ground path. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem HI Randall, Thanks for the information and the tests. I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical trouble shooting ability is very limited. This section is also done with the lights on, right?: To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. Thanks, Roger On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all power to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to show the difference in voltage. To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on. If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals. The only fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with the lights at idle. (I?m not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current across the board. Check with the Jaguar folks.) Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such things. I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter. To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired. On my TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal. Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh coat of paint. However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire. So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. -- Randall From: Roger Elliott Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem Here's the problem. When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher. They don't go on and off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is hooked up it does the same thing. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Wed Nov 13 05:45:41 2019 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 12:45:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Watch the first 3 mins of this video as Richard Brunning takes the wheel off a truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUww3BM2G2E From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 6:52 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] self raising dolly I'm getting old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is. I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Wed Nov 13 08:13:08 2019 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 15:13:08 -0000 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly Message-ID: ?I think that gap between the two foot long strips, which make?a platform with that gap in between, would hold the tire from rolling off. A?scissor jack wold have one jack-point so you'd be balancing the tire on it, but yes, it would be cheaper. Rye On November 12, 2019 at 9:02 PM, wbeech wrote: At $60 when it?s on sale it?s cheaper than a chiropractor.? A cheaper solution would be a scissor jack. Bill ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:52 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] self raising dolly ? I'm getting?old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is.? ? ?I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? ? Regards, Sujit ? ? -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Motorcycle lift.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 137946 bytes Desc: not available URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Nov 13 08:20:10 2019 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 10:20:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: Doesn't Moss sell tail light bulb holders with grounding tabs? https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse Dave [image: image.png] On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 12:15 AM Brian Kemp wrote: > I seem to remember once upon a time, somebody made a light socket with a > ground wire or a ground tab. I looked a few months ago for my GT6, but > couldn't find it at the usual vendors. I imagine you could add a ground > wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so I was looking for new ones > that already had the wire. > > On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to ground. The > problem was the connection between the metal base and the metal fingers. I > just hit the area with a wire brush in the Dremel then soldered the two > bits together and it fixed that problem. > > Brian > > On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: > > I decided to give up on the issue. > > There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the battery - about > .05 volts as near as I could make out. It's possible that either the meter > or myself were not quick enough to read accurately. > > As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the sockets. > There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and the battery. I did > run additional wires from the lamp housing to a ground (to the tank > mounting bolts). > > The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in opposition, > got brighter when the turn signals were off. > > Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I noticed the > brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals. This is when I > decided to give up and just live with it. > > Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the brake > lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake lights and turn > signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in opposition. > > Thanks for your help. > Roger > On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: > > Yes, that?s the idea. You want all the lights on (including turn signals) > during this test. > > > > What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through the > ground path. > > > > -- Randall > > > > *From: *Roger Elliott > *Sent: *Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem > > > > HI Randall, > > Thanks for the information and the tests. > > I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical trouble > shooting ability is very limited. > > This section is also done with the lights on, right?: > > To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative > battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground > lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see > how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, > anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. > > > Thanks, > Roger > > > > On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: > > There may not be a good solution, Roger. The incandescent turn signals > draw a fair amount of current, which is likely more than the stock > alternator can deliver (along with tail lights and so on) at idle. So it > may be that the battery voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator > supplying all power to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the > power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to show the > difference in voltage. > > > > To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, then watch what > it does when the tail lights and flashers are both on. If I?m right, > you?ll see the battery voltage sag in time with the turn signals. The only > fix would be to convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with > the lights at idle. (I?m not certain, but I think there is a Lester unit > that would look and fit the same as the stock Lucas but give more current > across the board. Check with the Jaguar folks.) > > > > Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source (so are much > less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have no idea where to buy such > things. I made my own using a simple 2-transistor active current limiter. > > > > To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the negative > battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can connect the ground > lead of your DMM to that. Then you can probe at the rear lights, to see > how well they are actually grounded. 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, > anything more than that represents a problem that could be fixed. > > > > I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired. On my TR3, all the rear > lamps ground only through their mounting screws, which go into clip nuts > fastened to the sheet metal. Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal > has a fresh coat of paint. > > > > However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a ground wire. > So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains across all the rear lamp > holders, then leads around the trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. > > > > -- Randall > > > > *From: *Roger Elliott > *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem > > > > Here's the problem. When the tail lights are on and I use the flasher, > > the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher. They don't go on and > > off but the get brighter and dimmer. When the third brake light is > > hooked up it does the same thing. > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 215999 bytes Desc: not available URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Nov 13 08:29:59 2019 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 10:29:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] self raising dolly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005201d59a37$3643cef0$a2cb6cd0$@charter.net> That?s a handy looking machine! Removing a cutter bar from a 10? discbine, positioning weldments, removing loaded tractor tires/wheels ? the uses could be endless! I should get out more often to see these things! Alex Thomson ?73 TR6 ?71 GT6 From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rye Livingston Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 8:28 PM To: Sujit Roy Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] self raising dolly My brother just scored a used Craftsman motorcycle lift. Normally I think it's over $200, he got it for $80. This is designed for a street bike. I'd think you could also use it to lift the tire, especially if you had the center of the tire straddle the 2 rubber strips in the first photo. What he bought it for: we both have 1963 Porsche 356s we are restoring at the same time, and as you may or may not know, the engine comes out from below. He thought we could both use this to put our engines back in. He was blown away that it's a perfect fit to the width of the case of the engine, see the second pic. So look for a HF version, or a used one on eBay or Craigslist, I think it should work well for taking off a big truck or minivan wheel. Rye PH: 530-FIND-RYE Motorcycle lift.jpg 356lift.jpg On November 12, 2019 at 3:52 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: I'm getting old and have back trouble and am looking for an easy way to remove a tire and wheel while inspecting brakes. I admit the Stag wheel isn't the problem but my minivan wheel is. I keep seeing HF has the self loading dolly's. I really don't need to lift the car with it, but have other found a cheaper solution to remove a wheel wheel while it is in the air? Regards, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 137946 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 434307 bytes Desc: not available URL: From elliottr at rmi.net Wed Nov 13 14:32:45 2019 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 15:32:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: <5d5d7725-2246-82f9-114c-468f9f3728da@rmi.net> Thanks everyone, I will do some more investigating.? I should mention that the lights just kind of flicker so it is not real obvious. Thanks again, Roger On 11/13/2019 9:20 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > Doesn't Moss sell tail light bulb holders with grounding tabs? > > https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse > > Dave > > image.png > > > > On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 12:15 AM Brian Kemp > wrote: > > I seem to remember once upon a time, somebody made a light socket > with a ground wire or a ground tab.? I looked a few months ago for > my GT6, but couldn't find it at the usual vendors.? I imagine you > could add a ground wire, but some of my sockets are pretty bad, so > I was looking for new ones that already had the wire. > > On my TR6, I did have a socket that didn't conduct well to > ground.? The problem was the connection between the metal base and > the metal fingers.? I just hit the area with a wire brush in the > Dremel then soldered the two bits together and it fixed that problem. > > Brian > > On 11/12/2019 2:38 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: >> >> I decided to give up on the issue. >> >> There did not seem to be much of a voltage drop across the >> battery - about .05 volts as near as I could make out.? It's >> possible that either the meter or myself were not quick enough to >> read accurately. >> >> As far as I could tell there is not a ground terminal on the >> sockets.? There was about .009 volts between the lamp housing and >> the battery.? I did run additional wires from the lamp housing to >> a ground (to the tank mounting bolts). >> >> The brake/tail lights still varied with the turn signals, in >> opposition, got brighter when the turn signals were off. >> >> Tested the lights with regular brake lights instead of LEDs. I >> noticed the brake/tail lights still varied with the turn >> signals.? This is when I decided to give up and just live with it. >> >> Oh, the third brake light that I have wired in - power from the >> brake lights and grounded to the body flash when ever the brake >> lights and turn signals are on (like the brake/tail lights in >> opposition. >> >> Thanks for your help. >> Roger >> >> On 11/3/2019 4:37 PM, Randall wrote: >>> >>> Yes, that?s the idea.? You want all the lights on (including >>> turn signals) during this test. >>> >>> What you?re looking at is how much voltage drop there is through >>> the ground path. >>> >>> -- Randall >>> >>> *From: *Roger Elliott >>> *Sent: *Sunday, November 3, 2019 1:26 PM >>> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >>> *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >>> >>> HI Randall, >>> >>> Thanks for the information and the tests. >>> >>> I just want to check something on the tests since my electrical >>> trouble shooting ability is very limited. >>> >>> This section is also done with the lights on, right?: >>> >>> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to the >>> negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so you can >>> connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then you can probe >>> at the rear lights, to see how well they are actually grounded.? >>> 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, anything more than that >>> represents a problem that could be fixed. >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Roger >>> >>> On 11/2/19 4:07 PM, Randall wrote: >>> >>> There may not be a good solution, Roger.? The incandescent >>> turn signals draw a fair amount of current, which is likely >>> more than the stock alternator can deliver (along with tail >>> lights and so on) at idle.? So it may be that the battery >>> voltage is dropping from 13+ volts (alternator supplying all >>> power to car) to 12.6 volts (battery supplying some of the >>> power) and the LEDs you?re using are sensitive enough to >>> show the difference in voltage. >>> >>> To check, connect a good voltmeter or DMM to the battery, >>> then watch what it does when the tail lights and flashers >>> are both on.? If I?m right, you?ll see the battery voltage >>> sag in time with the turn signals.? The only fix would be to >>> convert to a more modern alternator, that can keep up with >>> the lights at idle.? (I?m not certain, but I think there is >>> a Lester unit that would look and fit the same as the stock >>> Lucas but give more current across the board. Check with the >>> Jaguar folks.) >>> >>> Another fix might be LEDs that use an active current source >>> (so are much less sensitive to supply voltage), but I have >>> no idea where to buy such things.? I made my own using a >>> simple 2-transistor active current limiter. >>> >>> To check for grounding issues, I suggest running a wire to >>> the negative battery terminal or negative starter cable, so >>> you can connect the ground lead of your DMM to that.? Then >>> you can probe at the rear lights, to see how well they are >>> actually grounded.? 0.2 volt is probably acceptable, >>> anything more than that represents a problem that could be >>> fixed. >>> >>> I?m not sure how the TR250 tail lights are wired.? On my >>> TR3, all the rear lamps ground only through their mounting >>> screws, which go into clip nuts fastened to the sheet metal. >>> Very insecure, especially if the sheet metal has a fresh >>> coat of paint. >>> >>> However, each lamp has a terminal inside the housing for a >>> ground wire. So, I made up a ground wire that daisy-chains >>> across all the rear lamp holders, then leads around the >>> trunk to one of the fuel tank mounting bolts. >>> >>> -- Randall >>> >>> *From: *Roger Elliott >>> *Sent: *Friday, November 1, 2019 12:50 PM >>> *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net >>> *Subject: *[TR] TR250 LED tail light problem >>> >>> Here's the problem.? When the tail lights are on and I use >>> the flasher, >>> >>> the tail/brake lights flicker with the flasher.? They don't >>> go on and >>> >>> off but the get brighter and dimmer.? When the third brake >>> light is >>> >>> hooked up it does the same thing. >>> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 215999 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Wed Nov 13 19:39:25 2019 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 18:39:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR250 LED tail light problem In-Reply-To: References: <58a62a94-f178-6a7a-fd45-5d2ab8e5bcf8@rmi.net> <201911021707.1Ir0Cu2tp3PGoUe1@ibscan-independence.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <54ff7dc0-6a8f-60ef-fafc-9fd346fba67c@rmi.net> <201911031737.1Irovm8t23PGoUj1@ibscan-princeton.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <2cb3eba4-8d02-88ad-16d3-5a8502224c52@rmi.net> Message-ID: Dave - Thanks for the reply. Yes, the normal vendors have the sockets with the grounding fingers that ground through the reflector, but when the previous owner took out the trim panels and let stuff in the back of the car bang the bulb holders and the light sockets, they don't ground very well with the tabs.? The Dorman socket from Alex looks like what I'm after and they are in stock locally, so I'll pay the store a visit and check the dimensions. Brian On 11/13/2019 7:20 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > Doesn't Moss sell tail light bulb holders with grounding tabs? > > https://mossmotors.com/bulb-holder-turn-reverse > > Dave > From keithstewart at bell.net Fri Nov 15 13:23:43 2019 From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 15:23:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Rear Bumper Distance Piece Dimensions Message-ID: <029601d59bf2$93e05080$bba0f180$@bell.net> Does anyone know the dimensions - ID, OD, length - of the distance piece (612875) that passes through the rear quarter panels and is part of the attachment system of the rear bumper to the out rigger? Thanks in advance. Keith Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Nov 16 13:31:42 2019 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 15:31:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A cowl vent spring installation Message-ID: <8651F629-FA66-4425-B141-00F0FADFFF94@fuse.net> Does anyone know how this cowl vent spring is supposed to be installed on a TR4A? Pictures would be awesome! Also pictures of the control rod installed would be great! Thanks Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 06:09:04 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 08:09:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes Message-ID: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> Good morning, My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don?t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 Sent from my iPad From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Nov 17 06:21:15 2019 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 08:21:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <009e01d59d49$e4385c50$aca914f0$@uprichard.net> Have you checked the fuel filter? Was it running fine prior to this or is it a new rebuild? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan Would love to be in 50-degree weather -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 8:09 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes Good morning, My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don?t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 Sent from my iPad ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 17 06:40:04 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 08:40:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <85E11FA0-F346-47D0-828A-322990CE6E7B@ca.rr.com> What are you running in the dashpots? Do they have enough but not too much? Have you checked that with the plunger removed, and you lift the piston to the top, it falls smoothly and lands with a distinct click? What's your plug gap? -- Randall On 17 November 2019 08:09:04 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen wrote: >Good morning, >My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy >motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet >bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. >Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it >has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way >from idle. It coughs and if I don?t pump the throttle will stall. >Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. >It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me >think it is still not rich enough. > >Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try >to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. > >Jim Henningsen >Ocala, FL >61 TR3A >62 TR4 >75 TR6 >81 TR8 >82 Jeep CJ8 > >Sent from my iPad >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >http://www.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 07:16:05 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:16:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> Message-ID: First of all, never get too focused on fuel circuits that you ignore the ignition circuit. Both have the same symptoms. That said, it wouldn't hurt to look at your fuel pressure at idle. if the flow is too low at idle the float chamber may not stay full. Had that problem with my current reground cam. The fuel pump lobe only partially moved the pump leaver giving me almost zero fuel pressure at idle. An electric fuel pump was cheaper than replacing an otherwise good cam and cured my off idle hesitation problem plus smoothed out my idle.? It also wouldn't hurt to check your spark in case of a weak coil. 900 RPM seems like a very high idle. Why do you have it set so high? Might be a clue. TeriAnn 1961 TR3A (built spring of 1960) 1960 Land Rover Dormobile Don't need anything else. On 11/17/19 6:09 AM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > Good morning, > My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don???t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. > > Jim Henningsen > Ocala, FL > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 > 82 Jeep CJ8 > > Sent from my iPad > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 17 08:11:34 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:11:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: <009e01d59d49$e4385c50$aca914f0$@uprichard.net> References: <009e01d59d49$e4385c50$aca914f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <38CA5E64-2D76-4DAD-8FB5-2184986351C3@flash.net> First thought I had was the carb oil. Getting colder and might need to go to something thinner. Having a similar issue with my 3 as well, still need to make the change to see if that makes a diff. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 17, 2019, at 7:25 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > ?Have you checked the fuel filter? Was it running fine prior to this or is it a new rebuild? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan Would love to be in 50-degree weather -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 8:09 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes Good morning, My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don?t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 Sent from my iPad ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 17 08:11:34 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:11:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: <009e01d59d49$e4385c50$aca914f0$@uprichard.net> References: <009e01d59d49$e4385c50$aca914f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <38CA5E64-2D76-4DAD-8FB5-2184986351C3@flash.net> First thought I had was the carb oil. Getting colder and might need to go to something thinner. Having a similar issue with my 3 as well, still need to make the change to see if that makes a diff. Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 17, 2019, at 7:25 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > ?Have you checked the fuel filter? Was it running fine prior to this or is it a new rebuild? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan Would love to be in 50-degree weather -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 8:09 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes Good morning, My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don?t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 Sent from my iPad ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:17:34 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 13:17:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Woes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E025EF1-FA46-4CAD-85F2-79E9EF4102A2@gmail.com> Thanks for all the feedback! On another 3 I just sold, I had the same issue with mechanical fuel pump and cam lobe and replaced with low flow electric fuel pump. Fixed problem perfectly. This car has electric fuel pump. I turned two more flats rich and also forgot to top off the dampers with oil. That did the trick. I could probably bring the idle down to 750, but then the hood vibrates with an awe full noise at the latch. Haven?t sorted that yet, but it doesn?t do it with idle at 900. Jim Henningsen Sent from my iPad > On Nov 17, 2019, at 9:16 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > > ? > First of all, never get too focused on fuel circuits that you ignore the ignition circuit. Both have the same symptoms. That said, it wouldn't hurt to look at your fuel pressure at idle. if the flow is too low at idle the float chamber may not stay full. Had that problem with my current reground cam. The fuel pump lobe only partially moved the pump leaver giving me almost zero fuel pressure at idle. An electric fuel pump was cheaper than replacing an otherwise good cam and cured my off idle hesitation problem plus smoothed out my idle. It also wouldn't hurt to check your spark in case of a weak coil. > > 900 RPM seems like a very high idle. Why do you have it set so high? Might be a clue. > > TeriAnn > 1961 TR3A (built spring of 1960) > 1960 Land Rover Dormobile > Don't need anything else. > > On 11/17/19 6:09 AM, Jim Henningsen wrote: >> Good morning, >> My 61 TR3A is coughing a bit and I need some help diagnosing. Healthy motor, stock dizzy, points, red rotor. I replaced the seals on the jet bearings and went through the procedure to balance and set mixture. Idles nicely at 900 rpm, choke works well. Once warmed up though, it has a bad hesitation when I push the gas pedal down a third of the way from idle. It coughs and if I don???t pump the throttle will stall. Very consistent. The mixture adjusting nuts are turned down 10 flats. It does run smoother without hesitating with choke on which makes me think it is still not rich enough. >> >> Any thoughts would be much appreciated while I drink my coffee and try to keep warm in the frigid south. 50 degrees this am in Florida. >> >> Jim Henningsen >> Ocala, FL >> 61 TR3A >> 62 TR4 >> 75 TR6 >> 81 TR8 >> 82 Jeep CJ8 >> >> Sent from my iPad >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com > > -- > Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada > 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write > > Because the world beckons and life waits for no one > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From l1j1s at icloud.com Sun Nov 17 05:59:35 2019 From: l1j1s at icloud.com (Lawrence Schwartz) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 07:59:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR3 Parts Message-ID: <7FCACD82-56BD-4546-941A-3C7780109FE8@icloud.com> List, Posted a ad for various Tr3 parts up for sale on Craigslist in New York City area. Really do not know how to paste the ad, sorry. For those that wish to contact me off list please do so- l1j1s at aol.com. Thank you, Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone From greg at gregoryd.com Sun Nov 17 13:14:37 2019 From: greg at gregoryd.com (Greg) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 15:14:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: <7FCACD82-56BD-4546-941A-3C7780109FE8@icloud.com> References: <7FCACD82-56BD-4546-941A-3C7780109FE8@icloud.com> Message-ID: <39C61E0C-4B44-4C83-B8D3-F3AB95D6937A@gregoryd.com> I believe this is the ad: https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/pts/d/brooklyn-triumph-tr-3-parts/7021699896.html From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 17 15:02:00 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 16:02:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: <39C61E0C-4B44-4C83-B8D3-F3AB95D6937A@gregoryd.com> References: <39C61E0C-4B44-4C83-B8D3-F3AB95D6937A@gregoryd.com> Message-ID: Anyone try to contact? No email reply and the phone number errors out. Ashtrays would be a unique touch. Bill TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 17, 2019, at 2:45 PM, Greg wrote: > ?I believe this is the ad: https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/pts/d/brooklyn-triumph-tr-3-parts/7021699896.html ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 17 15:02:00 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 16:02:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph TR3 Parts In-Reply-To: <39C61E0C-4B44-4C83-B8D3-F3AB95D6937A@gregoryd.com> References: <39C61E0C-4B44-4C83-B8D3-F3AB95D6937A@gregoryd.com> Message-ID: Anyone try to contact? No email reply and the phone number errors out. Ashtrays would be a unique touch. Bill TS30800L Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 17, 2019, at 2:45 PM, Greg wrote: > ?I believe this is the ad: https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/pts/d/brooklyn-triumph-tr-3-parts/7021699896.html ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Nov 18 14:52:52 2019 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 13:52:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 15:17:47 2019 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:17:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> Message-ID: <505922114.1345585.1574115467832@mail.yahoo.com> my buddies and i have had 2 new master cylinders that where bad straight from the supplier. dont give up just yet,? but just sayin frank On Monday, November 18, 2019, 01:53:12 PM PST, Kinderlehrer wrote: I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 18 15:22:22 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 16:22:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> References: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> Message-ID: <08E42C6E-2C1A-45E1-A6D8-20A1339BDA1E@flash.net> Bob, You may already know this but I learned recently that you should always have you drain bottle above the cylinder outlet to prevent bubbles from entering through the bleeder threads. Only other suggestion is to revisit the brake adjustments so the system is not using that first pedal pump just get the shoes started out. Hopefully more good suggestions will follow. All the best, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 18, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > ?I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 18 15:22:22 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 16:22:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> References: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> Message-ID: <08E42C6E-2C1A-45E1-A6D8-20A1339BDA1E@flash.net> Bob, You may already know this but I learned recently that you should always have you drain bottle above the cylinder outlet to prevent bubbles from entering through the bleeder threads. Only other suggestion is to revisit the brake adjustments so the system is not using that first pedal pump just get the shoes started out. Hopefully more good suggestions will follow. All the best, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 18, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > ?I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Nov 18 15:22:44 2019 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 14:22:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <505922114.1345585.1574115467832@mail.yahoo.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> <505922114.1345585.1574115467832@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b901d59e5e$b3d19930$1b74cb90$@net> Thanks Frank. They either come from China or India, don?t know which is worse. Bob From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 2:18 PM To: 'Triumphs'; Kinderlehrer Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes my buddies and i have had 2 new master cylinders that where bad straight from the supplier. dont give up just yet, but just sayin frank On Monday, November 18, 2019, 01:53:12 PM PST, Kinderlehrer wrote: I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Nov 18 15:29:49 2019 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 14:29:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <08E42C6E-2C1A-45E1-A6D8-20A1339BDA1E@flash.net> References: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> <08E42C6E-2C1A-45E1-A6D8-20A1339BDA1E@flash.net> Message-ID: <00be01d59e5f$b116c980$13445c80$@net> Thanks Bill. I don't have the bottle that high. I had my wife pump and hold the brake while I opened the nipple and keep pressure until I closed it, also my tube has a one way valve on the end and was in the bottle below the level of the previously drained fluid. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 2:22 PM To: Kinderlehrer Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes Bob, You may already know this but I learned recently that you should always have you drain bottle above the cylinder outlet to prevent bubbles from entering through the bleeder threads. Only other suggestion is to revisit the brake adjustments so the system is not using that first pedal pump just get the shoes started out. Hopefully more good suggestions will follow. All the best, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 18, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > ?I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dave at ranteer.com Mon Nov 18 15:42:42 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 16:42:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <00be01d59e5f$b116c980$13445c80$@net> References: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> <08E42C6E-2C1A-45E1-A6D8-20A1339BDA1E@flash.net> <00be01d59e5f$b116c980$13445c80$@net> Message-ID: <003e01d59e61$7d527570$77f76050$@ranteer.com> Speedbleeders make it easy!!!! http://www.speedbleeder.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 4:30 PM To: 'Wbeech at flash.net' Cc: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes Thanks Bill. I don't have the bottle that high. I had my wife pump and hold the brake while I opened the nipple and keep pressure until I closed it, also my tube has a one way valve on the end and was in the bottle below the level of the previously drained fluid. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 2:22 PM To: Kinderlehrer Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes Bob, You may already know this but I learned recently that you should always have you drain bottle above the cylinder outlet to prevent bubbles from entering through the bleeder threads. Only other suggestion is to revisit the brake adjustments so the system is not using that first pedal pump just get the shoes started out. Hopefully more good suggestions will follow. All the best, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 18, 2019, at 3:53 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > ?I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com From dave at ranteer.com Mon Nov 18 15:43:58 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 16:43:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <505922114.1345585.1574115467832@mail.yahoo.com> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> <505922114.1345585.1574115467832@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003f01d59e61$aab67c00$00237400$@ranteer.com> And I had a clutch slave cylinder that was bad out of the box From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 4:18 PM To: 'Triumphs' ; Kinderlehrer Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes my buddies and i have had 2 new master cylinders that where bad straight from the supplier. dont give up just yet, but just sayin frank On Monday, November 18, 2019, 01:53:12 PM PST, Kinderlehrer > wrote: I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the brakes bled. I've been around all 4 wheels a few times but I continue to get bubbles and a soft peddle to a point. The peddle will get hard a few inches from the floor and will pump up somewhat. Is it possible that the new master cylinder is bad? I can't see how air is getting in the system, I know I've pulled several reservoirs worth of fluid through. Thanks for any ideas, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Nov 19 15:11:20 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 16:11:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] total wild guess Message-ID: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> my son (he's 30) has decided we need to replace the front turn signal lenses/parking lights on the 72 TR6 with clear ones. Those were only made for the Italian market. Anyone know of a source? Anyone know Italian? Anyone in Italy? Dave N 72 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 19 17:29:57 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 18:29:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] total wild guess In-Reply-To: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> References: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <001101d59f39$a41cc9c0$ec565d40$@flash.net> Looked at eBay Italy, they are pretty proud of them! www.ebay.it https://www.ebay.it/itm/54580329-VERY-RARE-ORIGINAL-LUCAS-TRIUMPH-TR6-L-H-RE AR-AMBER-LIGHT-LENS-NOS/323311720917?hash=item4b46e159d5:g:6qEAAOSwwKNbK6RY From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 4:11 PM To: 'Yahoo via 6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] total wild guess my son (he's 30) has decided we need to replace the front turn signal lenses/parking lights on the 72 TR6 with clear ones. Those were only made for the Italian market. Anyone know of a source? Anyone know Italian? Anyone in Italy? Dave N 72 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Nov 19 18:53:28 2019 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 20:53:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 4:53 PM Kinderlehrer wrote: > I replaced the master cylinder in my TR3A and now I can't seem to get the > brakes bled. > Did you try bench bleeding the master cylinder? It can be done on the car as well...but is slightly trickier. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Nov 19 19:21:17 2019 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 21:21:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Brake Bleeding Woes In-Reply-To: References: <5CB9E28D-9EFE-4384-BFCA-4595DE19512D@gmail.com> <00b501d59e5a$87917600$96b46200$@net> Message-ID: I made a pressure bleeder for a friend s tr3. Simply a tire valve in an old cover, 4 psi and ready to go -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gelhar.com Wed Nov 20 11:57:14 2019 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 12:57:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] total wild guess In-Reply-To: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> References: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <004101d59fd4$54c38300$fe4a8900$@gelhar.com> I googled Lucas L827. They do exist. Greg G. Osseo, MN From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 4:11 PM To: 'Yahoo via 6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] total wild guess my son (he's 30) has decided we need to replace the front turn signal lenses/parking lights on the 72 TR6 with clear ones. Those were only made for the Italian market. Anyone know of a source? Anyone know Italian? Anyone in Italy? Dave N 72 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Nov 21 20:46:31 2019 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 03:46:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] total wild guess In-Reply-To: <004101d59fd4$54c38300$fe4a8900$@gelhar.com> References: <000f01d59f26$467e65c0$d37b3140$@ranteer.com> <004101d59fd4$54c38300$fe4a8900$@gelhar.com> Message-ID: <1871792633.3875024.1574394391686@mail.yahoo.com> According to my Lucas catalogue (1971), part numbers for the clear lens assemblies are 54579953 and 54579954. --Andy Mace -----Original Message----- From: Greg Gelhar To: 'dave' ; 'Yahoo via 6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs Sent: Wed, Nov 20, 2019 2:12 pm Subject: Re: [TR] total wild guess #yiv7978300361 #yiv7978300361 -- _filtered #yiv7978300361 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7978300361 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv7978300361 #yiv7978300361 p.yiv7978300361MsoNormal, #yiv7978300361 li.yiv7978300361MsoNormal, #yiv7978300361 div.yiv7978300361MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv7978300361 a:link, #yiv7978300361 span.yiv7978300361MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv7978300361 a:visited, #yiv7978300361 span.yiv7978300361MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv7978300361 p.yiv7978300361msonormal0, #yiv7978300361 li.yiv7978300361msonormal0, #yiv7978300361 div.yiv7978300361msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv7978300361 span.yiv7978300361EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv7978300361 span.yiv7978300361EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv7978300361 .yiv7978300361MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7978300361 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv7978300361 div.yiv7978300361WordSection1 {} #yiv7978300361 I googled Lucas L827. They do exist. ?Greg G.Osseo, MN ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 4:11 PM To: 'Yahoo via 6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] total wild guess ?my son (he?s 30) has decided we need to replace the front turn signal lenses/parking lights on the 72 TR6 with clear ones.? Those were only made for the Italian market. ?Anyone know of a source?? Anyone know Italian?? Anyone in Italy? ?Dave N72 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Nov 22 17:30:43 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 19:30:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking to fi d new TR8 owner Message-ID: <03EC8FC8-A718-4181-8B3D-D62C761F2A05@gmail.com> Sad story. Massive warehouse fire at collector car storage facility in Pittsburg in May. Friend of mine had two mint TR8s in there. Insurance totaled them and 6 other of his cars. Turns out the two eights only had minor spot damage on exterior of car. They cleaned up perfectly. I bought one. Other was sold at insurance auction by IAA in Pittsburg In sep. the 1980 silver TR8 I am told was bought by someone fro New York maybe Rochester. It has 900 original miles and was In a collection. The owner has all th e original documentation on the car and we are trying to get it to new owner. I will get vin soon. But if someone says they got new 900 miles silver TR8 from an insurance auction. Please have them contact me. Woody is aware too. Jim Henningsen Sent from my iPhone From trguy75 at gmail.com Sat Nov 23 03:42:42 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 05:42:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph closing date Message-ID: Does anyone have a reference for the last date of production for the TR8 at sollihul plant? The TR8 I just purchased was built October 10, 1981 and has all of the special features of the last produced cars. I had heard that was also the last day of the plant being open before that section closed. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL Sent from my iPad From fredzampa at yahoo.com Sat Nov 23 17:31:58 2019 From: fredzampa at yahoo.com (fred zampa) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 00:31:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr4a motor mounts direction References: <612435317.5661653.1574555518961.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <612435317.5661653.1574555518961@mail.yahoo.com> Hi: ? ? My 1966 TR4A? had round motor mounts that i am replacing with rectangular mounts. the new mounts? have a metal u-shaped cradle that covers 3 sides .? ?the ends are open rubber.? ? the remaining side is exposed rubber? with a raised but embeded metal bar covered by? the rubber near the surface and holding the bolt. which side goes up ?? ? ?the moss and rimmer parts books show the the open rubber side with the "lump" facing up towards the engine.? ?but a photo from moss shows the the opposite: the steel of the cradle contacts at the engine and the open/rubber side sits on the frame.? given the above , the two mounting holes in the frame , and the off center bolt locations , i figure there are eight ways install? these mounts ?? ?even that ignores the washers. please help.? ? ? ? fred -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allen.k.hess at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 12:32:24 2019 From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 14:32:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A motor mount direction Message-ID: <28FA1942-42F8-47A2-9912-7267E58DBAA0@gmail.com> All the illustrations I?ve seen, the open side is up. Two other things come to mind if the open side is down: as the mount ages and compresses the metal U may be banging on the frame. Second, they sometimes break, the metal and bolt is no longer bonded to the rubber and nut and bolt are pretty well stuck. Getting a tool on the open side plate to keep it from turning will be next to impossible. I broke the round mounts many years ago and it was a very long day trying to hold the round disc and unscrew the stubborn nut Allen From mark at bradakis.com Mon Nov 25 09:03:54 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 09:03:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Puttering down Memory Lane Message-ID: <1b360740-eaf6-c975-d424-54246fa76cc9@bradakis.com> "The white car (presumably the one you owned) was sent to Prescott, AZ along with a spare parts car to be restored by a fellow from Norway last I heard." Does anyone know a place in Prescott like this? Here's why I am wondering.? I used to have a car, a white, solid axle TR4A.? Great car, one of my favorites.? Should have kept it, you know that story.? Anyway, I sold it to a fellow here in Salt Lake.? Some years later I am browsing local classifieds, and I see a white TR4A for sale.? I look at the photos and one picture has a bit of a sway bar mount showing.? A custom, one of a kind mount that I fabricated for The White Car, as I called it.? Turns out it was purchased by someone in St. George, Utah, summer of 2015. Since my name was on a lot of the paperwork that came with the car he contacted me.? We chatted a bit, I gave him some of the history of the car the time it was in my care, emailed him some of the pictures I have.? Restoration was in the plans. So the other day I was feeling nostalgic and put up a post on Facebook about how I would really like to have a fun car back on the road.? My post included a shot of TWC, taken at the Boulder, Colorado VTR convention in 1990, I think it was.? Picture below. And I emailed Taylor, the fellow in St. George.? His email address is still valid, he responded about his various projects, and the quote at the beginning about Prescott tells what he ended up doing with my former car. Anyone know the shop? mjb. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: twc_3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144815 bytes Desc: not available URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Mon Nov 25 20:05:38 2019 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:05:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Puttering down Memory Lane In-Reply-To: <1b360740-eaf6-c975-d424-54246fa76cc9@bradakis.com> References: <1b360740-eaf6-c975-d424-54246fa76cc9@bradakis.com> Message-ID: "I used to have a car, a white, solid axle TR4A. Great car, one of my favorites." I had a solid axle 66, once I got done redoing everything it was a daily driver in the late 80s, and the most reliable British car I have ever owned, would start at 10 below no worries, damn fine looking car too. Greg Lemon TR250 On Mon, Nov 25, 2019, 10:04 AM Mark J Bradakis wrote: > "The white car (presumably the one you owned) was sent to Prescott, AZ > along with a spare parts car to be restored by a fellow from Norway last > I heard." > > Does anyone know a place in Prescott like this? > > Here's why I am wondering. I used to have a car, a white, solid axle > TR4A. Great car, one of my favorites. Should have kept it, you know > that story. Anyway, I sold it to a fellow here in Salt Lake. Some > years later I am browsing local classifieds, and I see a white TR4A for > sale. I look at the photos and one picture has a bit of a sway bar > mount showing. A custom, one of a kind mount that I fabricated for The > White Car, as I called it. Turns out it was purchased by someone in St. > George, Utah, summer of 2015. Since my name was on a lot of the > paperwork that came with the car he contacted me. We chatted a bit, I > gave him some of the history of the car the time it was in my care, > emailed him some of the pictures I have. Restoration was in the plans. > > So the other day I was feeling nostalgic and put up a post on Facebook > about how I would really like to have a fun car back on the road. My > post included a shot of TWC, taken at the Boulder, Colorado VTR > convention in 1990, I think it was. Picture below. And I emailed > Taylor, the fellow in St. George. His email address is still valid, he > responded about his various projects, and the quote at the beginning > about Prescott tells what he ended up doing with my former car. > > Anyone know the shop? > > mjb. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jat1127 at hotmail.com Tue Nov 26 13:17:11 2019 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (j t) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 20:17:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 269 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Regarding the 900 mile car possibly in Rochester NY. I go there with some frequency. CHEERS John Taylor 133 Barton RD Greenfield MA 01301 USA see me at: My Flickr Album Web site : johntaylor.photos Member: Brattleboro Camera Club Vermont Center for Photography ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of triumphs-request at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2019 2:00 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 269 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Looking to fi d new TR8 owner (James Henningsen) 2. Triumph closing date (Jim Henningsen) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 19:30:43 -0500 From: James Henningsen To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Looking to fi d new TR8 owner Message-ID: <03EC8FC8-A718-4181-8B3D-D62C761F2A05 at gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Sad story. Massive warehouse fire at collector car storage facility in Pittsburg in May. Friend of mine had two mint TR8s in there. Insurance totaled them and 6 other of his cars. Turns out the two eights only had minor spot damage on exterior of car. They cleaned up perfectly. I bought one. Other was sold at insurance auction by IAA in Pittsburg In sep. the 1980 silver TR8 I am told was bought by someone fro New York maybe Rochester. It has 900 original miles and was In a collection. The owner has all th e original documentation on the car and we are trying to get it to new owner. I will get vin soon. But if someone says they got new 900 miles silver TR8 from an insurance auction. Please have them contact me. Woody is aware too. Jim Henningsen Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 05:42:42 -0500 From: Jim Henningsen To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Triumph closing date Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Does anyone have a reference for the last date of production for the TR8 at sollihul plant? The TR8 I just purchased was built October 10, 1981 and has all of the special features of the last produced cars. I had heard that was also the last day of the plant being open before that section closed. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL Sent from my iPad ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 269 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Tue Nov 26 16:59:03 2019 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:59:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stag stuck choke Message-ID: I was planning on starting the Stag today after doing alot of work on it over the year and lo and behold, the choke is stuck on one of the carbs (Stromberg). It has a slight bit of freeplay, but the choke lever is hard stuck like it is jammed. I have had the dashpot and air valve piston out as well as the float bowl off but I dont think that would have anything to do with it. It feel jammed not gummed up. Other carb is fine. Any ideas? Thanks, Frank Sent from my iPad From driveyourtriumphday at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 21:55:47 2019 From: driveyourtriumphday at gmail.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 20:55:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Drive Your Triumph Day, February 10th, 2020 Message-ID: Dear Fellow Triumph Owner, It?s time to make plans for Drive Your Triumph Day, February 10, 2020. My name is Rye Livingston and I'm with the Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club in Northern California.In 2015 I encouraged members of our club to drive their Triumphs on February 10th, to celebrate Sir John Black's Birthday, the man who organized Standard's purchase of Triumph after the war, and went on to make the cars we enjoy driving today. This celebratory drive has been building momentum every year. For 2019 I received close to 350 photos from all over the world: UK, Scotland, Ireland, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Uruguay, Netherlands, Switzerland, Germany, Italy, Finland, Canada, Holland, Czech Republic, and of course all over the USA. This year is going to be a bit more of a challenge as February 10thfalls on Monday. As tempting as it may be to plan a drive for the weekend, we?re going to keep true to the day, and please submit photos only taken on Monday, February 10th, 2020. The concept is straightforward. On February 10th, go for a drive in your Triumph. Take a scenic drive on a country road or out to lunch, to the market, to work, where ever. Go for a drive alone or in a big group from your local Triumph Club. Take your spouse, buddy, child, grandchild or your dog; then take a photo. The photo is mainly of the car, and the owner if possible, ideally in front a cool spot, landmark, scenic view, in front of the hardware store or in your driveway. If it?s the middle of the winter where you live and your car is in hibernation, or in the middle of a restoration, take a photo of it anyway in the garage. Some winter photos I?ve received have the garage door open with the car tucked under a cover, and snow outside. Have fun with it, and participate. Next step is to email a high-resolution photo to driveyourtriumphday at gmail.com, along with some basic information: owner?s name, year and model of car, and place photo was taken (city, state, country). The photos will then be published not only in our club newsletter, but also in USA?s national magazine: Vintage Triumph Registry, and on the Drive Your Triumph Day website: https://driveyourtriumphday.shutterfly.com Please feel free to send this on to other Triumph Clubs you may know of, and your club Activities Chairman and Newsletter editor. Last year a few Standard Clubs joined in too, which is all good. Be sure to contact me with any questions you may have, and thank you in advance for getting the message out to your members and friends to Drive Their Triumphs on February 10th. Regards, Rye Livingston Activities Chairman Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club Celebrating our 62th Anniversary 1960 Triumph TR3A Mobile: 530-FIND-RYE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Wed Nov 27 09:22:19 2019 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 11:22:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 WIndscreen Frame Message-ID: Hey all ~ Anyone with a good, spare windscreen frame for a TR3? Don't need the glass, just the frame, if it's in good shape. Please contact me off list. *Thank you!! Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!* Dave Friedlander Gorham, ME '59 TR3A '74 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 27 12:25:07 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:25:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 WIndscreen Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <68AC4F60-DCA9-47C0-8B68-44379335199D@flash.net> Call Ted Schumacher, he had several. NFI, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 27, 2019, at 10:23 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > ? Hey all ~ Anyone with a good, spare windscreen frame for a TR3? Don't need the glass, just the frame, if it's in good shape. Please contact me off list. Thank you!! Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! Dave Friedlander Gorham, ME '59 TR3A '74 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 27 12:25:07 2019 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:25:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 WIndscreen Frame In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <68AC4F60-DCA9-47C0-8B68-44379335199D@flash.net> Call Ted Schumacher, he had several. NFI, Bill Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......MMM > On Nov 27, 2019, at 10:23 AM, David Friedlander wrote: > ? Hey all ~ Anyone with a good, spare windscreen frame for a TR3? Don't need the glass, just the frame, if it's in good shape. Please contact me off list. Thank you!! Happy Thanksgiving, everyone! Dave Friedlander Gorham, ME '59 TR3A '74 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Nov 27 17:21:18 2019 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 19:21:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1980 TR8 1300 orig miles lost but found Message-ID: <0cac01d5a581$c15b7ba0$441272e0$@gmail.com> List: Last week I asked to see if anyone knew the whereabouts of a 1980 TR8 with 1300 orig miles. It was owned along with a 1981 that I bought by a person who lost both to a big collector car storage facility fire in Pittsburg this past spring. The insurance company totaled most cars in the building including his two TR8s and 5 other cars he owned. The facility had 300 cars. Google collector car storage fire pittsburg. The funny thing is that the two 8s have minimal damage. Both 8s went up for sale in September at an insurance auction in Pittsburg. I bought the Oct build 81 (18k orig miles) from a fellow who bought it to flip it. Someone from New York bought the 80 and now its for sale on ebay. See link. Ends in 4 days. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Triumph-TR8-CLOTH/184051538964 Here's the situation. I have found the previous owner of both cars and he wants to get the original documentation on the cars to the new owners. He gave me the 81 info. He still has the info documenting this low mileage original including manuals, copy of origi depositi check, invoice, tools, etc. This is a legit 1300 mile car. Woody worked on the 81 for him that I bought. If you know someone who wants a good one that needs a little TLC here it is. I and the previous owner would love to get the documentation on this car to the new owner. I don't know the seller, most likely a flipper. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL