From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Sun Sep  1 08:46:56 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 15:46:56 +0100
Subject: [TR] Triple Weber Carbs on a TR6
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB66929E359283CAF286E83F10FEBC0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <224B6B4D-79AC-4DD0-8329-825CAF504BB5@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66929E359283CAF286E83F10FEBC0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1A81799B-5C2A-4555-8299-0F7A0C5AB085@Ukpips.org.uk>

Try Australia! A lot of Triumph saloons built there with the 2500 engine used a triple stromberg setup. Not sure if the same applied to the 2000 engine a la GT6. Several Triumph groups in Oz on bookface and other feeds.

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 31 Aug 2019, at 21:44, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
> 
> I think my setup is typical for a LHD car. The standard TR6 accelerator shaft and lever is connected via a rod to a bell crank that is attached under the manifold in the middle. The vertical rod from that bell crank is arrowed in the attached picture and the rest should be self explanatory.
> 
> Stan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth
> Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2019 3:31 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Triple Weber Carbs on a TR6
> 
> I currently have duel carbs but want to fit triples. I know I will need a new input manifold, no problem, but I am puzzled by what the accelerator linkage will like. That middle carb will be occupying the same space as the current linkage and will need to be modified, or replaced with something different.
> 
> Has anybody done this, and if so could you send a picture of the linkage?  Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my couch
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
> <20190831_163710.jpg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Sep  1 11:04:23 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 13:04:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aha!
In-Reply-To: <00aa01d56032$47de9b20$d79bd160$@uprichard.net>
References: <00aa01d56032$47de9b20$d79bd160$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO9OF4Qd6Ui4BtpPMhh_YM5Fm6Eza6mcsJ2YsabD0ZtAQ@mail.gmail.com>

FWIW  The one on my TR2 is straight.
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  1 16:33:10 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 18:33:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done
it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop
Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace
the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone
removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process,
and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I
need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the
middle out or visa versa?

Wish me luck, Thanks
                         Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
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From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  1 16:50:03 2019
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (Tom Walling)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 18:50:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>

You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!

 

> On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process, and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the middle out or visa versa?
> 
>     Wish me luck, Thanks
>                              Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  1 16:55:31 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 18:55:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtndZA7qzsU5_b-tYzi_=Hxn8=J6SiF-Lp-tnEG-gyepw@mail.gmail.com>

Awesome, thanks! What would I need at the auto zone? Paul

On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 6:50 PM Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:

> You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual
> shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to
> the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some
> steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from
> moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks
> like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring
> the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!
>
>
> On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done
> it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop
> Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace
> the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone
> removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process,
> and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I
> need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the
> middle out or visa versa?
>
> Wish me luck, Thanks
>                          Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
>
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep  1 20:13:07 2019
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 19:13:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtndZA7qzsU5_b-tYzi_=Hxn8=J6SiF-Lp-tnEG-gyepw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAFU8DPtndZA7qzsU5_b-tYzi_=Hxn8=J6SiF-Lp-tnEG-gyepw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFx6ucmzCxdi_gxA1jkSSSVRr1Xe8O1wtnboQVJ633Jqg@mail.gmail.com>

Paul -

I clamp down the liners with big washers, long sockets and head nuts:

[image: head3.JPG]

The cardboard covering the oil galleys is to keep parts from jumping in
there.

I used to just man-handle the head off of there but now that I am (much)
older I have fashioned a pulling set-up using a come-along hooked to a
ceiling joist.

[image: Head Puller 2.JPG]

Once the head is up & clear I slip a couple of 1x12s under there, lower it
and slide it to one side towards me.  The head isn;t terribly heavy but the
angle is such that you're leaning out and over if you try to lift it.

Geo


On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 3:55 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Awesome, thanks! What would I need at the auto zone? Paul
>
> On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 6:50 PM Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual
>> shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to
>> the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some
>> steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from
>> moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks
>> like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring
>> the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!
>>
>>
>> On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've
>> done it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost
>> Workshop Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first
>> brace the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post
>> phone removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this
>> process, and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!)
>> Anything else I need to know like what's the sequence for removing the
>> headbolts (from the middle out or visa versa?
>>
>> Wish me luck, Thanks
>>                          Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From gdhuggins at genfiniti.com  Sun Sep  1 20:45:35 2019
From: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 21:45:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
Message-ID: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>

All,

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.

Any experienced-based suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph






From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep  1 20:56:24 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 20:56:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <b868524b-4525-866a-65c3-11f0a12c045a@bradakis.com>

It sounds like you may need to focus on the shocks, not the springs.

mjb.



From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep  1 21:48:33 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 22:48:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.68.1567396114.2434.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Paul,
Here?s a workshop manual you can download
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkxMi00NGUzLWE4NzMtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1

If that link doesn?t work, try this one
https://tinyurl.com/yxgdf988

No particular order for removing head nuts, just a sequence for tightening them.

A stack of ?? drive sockets will do for the liner clamps; you may need to play with sizes some, though.

- Randall

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Sep  1 21:58:10 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2019 23:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <224351737.466681.1567396691403@connect.xfinity.com>

Well first, you're ahead of the game.  I waited until my 3's leaf springs had broken to the point that only one spring was solid.  The replacement springs came as stock variety from ISTR TRF.  Opinions vary of course but I've found the stock version firm and reliable.  But then my comparison was againsr years of increasingly broke leafs!

 Terry
> On September 1, 2019 at 10:45 PM "G.D. Huggins" <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
> The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
> As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.
> 
> I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
> I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.
> 
> Any experienced-based suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Sep  2 04:15:00 2019
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 06:15:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <85FA3AAFBC84409197B11A088439C96F@VlackTK121647>

I agree with Mark, focus on shocks and rear shock links especially. I once 
broke a rear shock link and the car bounced badly. I'd stay away from rear 
tube conversions, those upgraded rear lever shocks you're ordering will work 
just fine. If the new shocks don't fix the issues and you still want to 
replace springs I'd suggest buying the Goodparts set offered for a TR6 along 
with spacers to regain original height. If you decide to go lower you'll 
have front and rear camber issues to deal with. Goodparts rear trailing arm 
brackets will allow you to regain correct camber but the front will go to 
too much negative camber. The only way to correct the front is to somehow 
modify the upper A-arms or buy one of the English suppliers kits for upper 
A-arm adjustment. My guess is your springs are just fine and you'll find 
your problem is associated with the rear shocks and or shock links. 
Goodparts also makes an excellent replacement shock link kit too. Let us 
know how it works out.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 10:45 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

All,

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's 
time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on 
a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with 
the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly 
enough.
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered 
some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward 
three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to 
keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.

Any experienced-based suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph





** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 


From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep  2 04:26:53 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 10:26:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>

 I agree with Mark and Jerry.? Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.? The damping was inadequate.? This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.? I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.? Peter up there knows Triumphs.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

All,

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.? Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.

Any experienced-based suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph


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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  2 07:34:09 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 08:34:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFx6ucmzCxdi_gxA1jkSSSVRr1Xe8O1wtnboQVJ633Jqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAFU8DPtndZA7qzsU5_b-tYzi_=Hxn8=J6SiF-Lp-tnEG-gyepw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bFx6ucmzCxdi_gxA1jkSSSVRr1Xe8O1wtnboQVJ633Jqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BC75B800-DC79-4B7B-BD8C-4A6EC089F93C@flash.net>

Great suggestions all, just thought I would add the caution NOT to trim the motor over while the head is off.  Or at least until the liners are very secure. 

Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:13 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

Paul -

I clamp down the liners with big washers, long sockets and head nuts:

<head3.JPG>

The cardboard covering the oil galleys is to keep parts from jumping in there.

I used to just man-handle the head off of there but now that I am (much) older I have fashioned a pulling set-up using a come-along hooked to a ceiling joist.

<Head Puller 2.JPG>

Once the head is up & clear I slip a couple of 1x12s under there, lower it and slide it to one side towards me.  The head isn;t terribly heavy but the angle is such that you're leaning out and over if you try to lift it.

Geo


> On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 3:55 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Awesome, thanks! What would I need at the auto zone? Paul
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 6:50 PM Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
>> You can't secure the liners until you get the head off Then the manual shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>> On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote: 
>>> 
>>> Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process, and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the middle out or visa versa?
>>> 
>>> Wish me luck, Thanks
>>>                          Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 08:22:33 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 10:22:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
Message-ID: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>

Hello list,
Still tracking down the gremlins in my freshly restored TR4.  Replaced the
fuel sending unit and the voltage stabilizer and I now have fuel gauge and
temp gauge working.  The curious part is the temp gauge pegged to max temp
shortly after startup on fast idle.  I pulled the contact wire from sending
unit in thermo housing and reseated and the same.  Digital temp reading on
coolant in radiator was 165 and then up to 181 at operating temp at normal
idle.  Any thoughts on why temp gauge is going to max?  Bad sending unit
(its new)?  Doesn't like later TR4A neg ground voltage stabilizer?  Car is
set to neg ground.  62 TR4 CT5212LO.

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL  


From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Sep  2 08:41:30 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 10:41:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
References: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A4526EC1-2CE1-47D3-B1DD-7D3522503552@fuse.net>

Hi Jim,
Does the temperature gauge reading ever settle back to a normal reading?
It will be interesting to see what suggestions you get. I fought the same issue and finally replaced the electrical gauge with one of those mechanical dual temperature/oil pressure gauges that other British cars have.  I filled the empty gauge hole with a mechanical oil temperature gauge.
If you are interested I can send you a picture of the center gauges.
Good Luck,
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello list,
> Still tracking down the gremlins in my freshly restored TR4.  Replaced the
> fuel sending unit and the voltage stabilizer and I now have fuel gauge and
> temp gauge working.  The curious part is the temp gauge pegged to max temp
> shortly after startup on fast idle.  I pulled the contact wire from sending
> unit in thermo housing and reseated and the same.  Digital temp reading on
> coolant in radiator was 165 and then up to 181 at operating temp at normal
> idle.  Any thoughts on why temp gauge is going to max?  Bad sending unit
> (its new)?  Doesn't like later TR4A neg ground voltage stabilizer?  Car is
> set to neg ground.  62 TR4 CT5212LO.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net


From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep  2 08:47:01 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 14:47:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
References: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1799271018.807808.1567435621052@mail.yahoo.com>

 Does the temp gauge go to COLD with the wire disconnected or does it stay at MAX?? If it is the later it is probably a shorted wire to ground.? If the former the sender is probably gone.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 9:22 am
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins

Hello list,
Still tracking down the gremlins in my freshly restored TR4.? Replaced the
fuel sending unit and the voltage stabilizer and I now have fuel gauge and
temp gauge working.? The curious part is the temp gauge pegged to max temp
shortly after startup on fast idle.? I pulled the contact wire from sending
unit in thermo housing and reseated and the same.? Digital temp reading on
coolant in radiator was 165 and then up to 181 at operating temp at normal
idle.? Any thoughts on why temp gauge is going to max?? Bad sending unit
(its new)?? Doesn't like later TR4A neg ground voltage stabilizer?? Car is
set to neg ground.? 62 TR4 CT5212LO.

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL? 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 09:51:20 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 11:51:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>

why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda
tilting backwards?
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 10:00:23 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 12:00:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head?
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtbyQKga+q5xqAxywTi2Wqx66+LBks9guwqvf09Kxac2A@mail.gmail.com>

also, someone sent me a pic showing the oil gallies covered up, mainly
between #2 & #3 cylinders.  I think so that nothing falls in, and cover it
with cardbord.,correct?  Are there other galleys to cover up?
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 10:12:40 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 09:12:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] removing my head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtbyQKga+q5xqAxywTi2Wqx66+LBks9guwqvf09Kxac2A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtbyQKga+q5xqAxywTi2Wqx66+LBks9guwqvf09Kxac2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41da4cb5-b357-c512-365f-b0e471375d7f@gmail.com>

On 9/2/19 9:00 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> also, someone sent me a pic showing the oil gallies covered up, mainly 
> between #2 & #3 cylinders.?? I think so that nothing falls in, and 
> cover it with cardbord.,correct?? Are there other galleys to cover up?

If there is a hole that something, including crud can fall into I just 
wad up a paper towel and stuff it in the hole. Quick, easy & it works. 
Never leave any passageway open unless you plan to boil out the block 
(or something similar).

TeriAnn


From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  2 10:20:56 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 11:20:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>

Paul,
That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the studs.  
Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda tilting backwards?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 11:05:08 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 13:05:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
Message-ID: <9C4885A1-6106-4E31-94EB-F547A2DB9C5B@gmail.com>

Something tells me the list an allow for pictures. Do I need to wait and get more boom on the lift? I no longer can drive that?s a big problem. But I also I don?t think I can find an engine lift, can I make up a jig? Is the distance of the boom from the head a problem, I don?t know if I can overcome it without sticking to a handle of some sort into the boom

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Sent from my iPhone

From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 11:08:36 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 13:08:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head?
In-Reply-To: <41da4cb5-b357-c512-365f-b0e471375d7f@gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtbyQKga+q5xqAxywTi2Wqx66+LBks9guwqvf09Kxac2A@mail.gmail.com>
 <41da4cb5-b357-c512-365f-b0e471375d7f@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtz6fJZEYSTqY7aMB5tcuoZKmz4E0x639SBNPQVd_M+zQ@mail.gmail.com>

thanks!

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 12:16 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
wrote:

> On 9/2/19 9:00 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> > also, someone sent me a pic showing the oil gallies covered up, mainly
> > between #2 & #3 cylinders.?  I think so that nothing falls in, and
> > cover it with cardbord.,correct?? Are there other galleys to cover up?
>
> If there is a hole that something, including crud can fall into I just
> wad up a paper towel and stuff it in the hole. Quick, easy & it works.
> Never leave any passageway open unless you plan to boil out the block
> (or something similar).
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com
>
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From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 11:38:03 2019
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 10:38:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <A4526EC1-2CE1-47D3-B1DD-7D3522503552@fuse.net>
References: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
 <A4526EC1-2CE1-47D3-B1DD-7D3522503552@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <CAN8Zq0E4BfObGAs0eqdcfu9R8vbUyWjCc_506YHMSVuk3ekj4g@mail.gmail.com>

Jim,

I replaced a nonfunctional temp gauge in my gt6 and the new unit read
extremely high when the engine warmed up. I replaced the sending unit &
voltage stabilizer and it didn?t change anything.

Then I calibrated the gauge -there are 2 adjustment ports covered with
black stoppers on the back. One of them adjusts the needle location. Using
a hand held HF digital sensor I adjust the needle to 185F, measured from
the thermostat housing, to the center mark of the gauge. Seems to work fine
now.

I think it was the adjustment screw on the left side looking at the rear of
the unit. It will look like you can adjust it with screwdriver, but the
metal is fragile. I ground down a hex wrench that fit snug in the opening
with a blade end and it turned easily with no damage.

Roger Wilson

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 7:45 AM Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> Hi Jim,
> Does the temperature gauge reading ever settle back to a normal reading?
> It will be interesting to see what suggestions you get. I fought the same
> issue and finally replaced the electrical gauge with one of those
> mechanical dual temperature/oil pressure gauges that other British cars
> have.  I filled the empty gauge hole with a mechanical oil temperature
> gauge.
> If you are interested I can send you a picture of the center gauges.
> Good Luck,
> Dave Connitt
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:22 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello list,
> > Still tracking down the gremlins in my freshly restored TR4.  Replaced
> the
> > fuel sending unit and the voltage stabilizer and I now have fuel gauge
> and
> > temp gauge working.  The curious part is the temp gauge pegged to max
> temp
> > shortly after startup on fast idle.  I pulled the contact wire from
> sending
> > unit in thermo housing and reseated and the same.  Digital temp reading
> on
> > coolant in radiator was 165 and then up to 181 at operating temp at
> normal
> > idle.  Any thoughts on why temp gauge is going to max?  Bad sending unit
> > (its new)?  Doesn't like later TR4A neg ground voltage stabilizer?  Car
> is
> > set to neg ground.  62 TR4 CT5212LO.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jim Henningsen
> > Ocala, FL
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjwilson1250 at gmail.com
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 11:49:40 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 13:49:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
In-Reply-To: <1799271018.807808.1567435621052@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <025701d56199$dd03ec10$970bc430$@gmail.com>
 <1799271018.807808.1567435621052@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9839A58C-0630-461F-B590-0C18D924426D@gmail.com>

Pull the wire and gauge goes back down.  Gauge worked prior to resto so will order new sender.  Thanks! Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:47 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> Does the temp gauge go to COLD with the wire disconnected or does it stay at MAX?  If it is the later it is probably a shorted wire to ground.  If the former the sender is probably gone.
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 9:22 am
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Gremlins
> 
> Hello list,
> Still tracking down the gremlins in my freshly restored TR4.  Replaced the
> fuel sending unit and the voltage stabilizer and I now have fuel gauge and
> temp gauge working.  The curious part is the temp gauge pegged to max temp
> shortly after startup on fast idle.  I pulled the contact wire from sending
> unit in thermo housing and reseated and the same.  Digital temp reading on
> coolant in radiator was 165 and then up to 181 at operating temp at normal
> idle.  Any thoughts on why temp gauge is going to max?  Bad sending unit
> (its new)?  Doesn't like later TR4A neg ground voltage stabilizer?  Car is
> set to neg ground.  62 TR4 CT5212LO.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Sep  2 14:22:01 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 16:22:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <024a01d561cc$14adba10$3e092e30$@bell.net>

Does this help?



 

 



 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

From: Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> 
Sent: September 1, 2019 6:50 PM
To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing my head

 

You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!

 

On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com> > wrote: 

Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process, and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the middle out or visa versa?

 

Wish me luck, Thanks

                         Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

 



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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 14:34:53 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 16:34:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <024a01d561cc$14adba10$3e092e30$@bell.net>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
 <024a01d561cc$14adba10$3e092e30$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPvO3RWaGZu3i5NxXZwpUc6pj2xh18oK77jXygw67x3QFA@mail.gmail.com>

This is perfect, thank you! I'd rather use four sockets, but do you think
two sockets will do the trick?

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:22 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

> Does this help?
>
> [image: A close up of an engine Description automatically generated]
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: A picture containing indoor, object Description automatically
> generated]
>
>
>
>
>
> Keith Stewart
>
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* September 1, 2019 6:50 PM
> *To:* Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Removing my head
>
>
>
> You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual
> shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to
> the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some
> steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from
> moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks
> like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring
> the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!
>
>
>
> On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done
> it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop
> Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace
> the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone
> removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process,
> and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I
> need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the
> middle out or visa versa?
>
>
>
> Wish me luck, Thanks
>
>                          Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A
>
>
>
>
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Sep  2 16:05:37 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 18:05:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPvO3RWaGZu3i5NxXZwpUc6pj2xh18oK77jXygw67x3QFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPu5J30FU++_wmDbZOq=UP7siGgc6Gp-t17NbJJQE70OGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1795941847.414934.1567378203562@connect.xfinity.com>
 <024a01d561cc$14adba10$3e092e30$@bell.net>
 <CAFU8DPvO3RWaGZu3i5NxXZwpUc6pj2xh18oK77jXygw67x3QFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <036501d561da$8d303810$a790a830$@bell.net>

Two sockets, if long enough, will do the trick. These tubes were custom cut by the Head Mechanic for Team Triumph (Canada)- Phil Allen -  back in the 60s.

 

Keith

 

From: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> 
Sent: September 2, 2019 4:35 PM
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net>; Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing my head

 

This is perfect, thank you! I'd rather use four sockets, but do you think two sockets will do the trick?

 

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 4:22 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

Does this help?



 

 



 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net <mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net> > 
Sent: September 1, 2019 6:50 PM
To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com> >; Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing my head

 

You can't secure the liners until you get the head off. Then the manual shows large washers sitting on the liners with tubes to get the nuts up to the threads of the head studs. I would think stout fender washers and some steel tubing would do the trick. You're trying to keep the liners from moving (thus breaking the seal of the "figure-eight" gaskets). This looks like a quick trip to your local hardware store and a few minutes measuring the non-treaded part of the studs and you've got it!

 

On September 1, 2019 at 6:33 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com> > wrote: 

Tomorrow I'd like to remove the head of my TR3 and I don't think I've done it before.  I've been looking amongst my clutter for my long lost Workshop Manual, but I can't find it anywhere. ISTR one might need to first brace the sleeves; how is that done?  If that's the case, I ought to post phone removing the head, because I hadn't familiarized myself with this process, and I don't want to rush things (it's only been 20 years!) Anything else I need to know like what's the sequence for removing the headbolts (from the middle out or visa versa?

 

Wish me luck, Thanks

                         Paul Dorsey  60 TR3A

 

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 17:10:13 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 18:10:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <85FA3AAFBC84409197B11A088439C96F@VlackTK121647>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <85FA3AAFBC84409197B11A088439C96F@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaCz6T2pauBjzqGN+-0o8H0jd7MmdZY6teT5gpdOZENVA@mail.gmail.com>

RE: Adjusting front camber, can't you do the with the shims that mount
between lower a-arms and the frame?

Also agree the rear sounds like a shock problem.

Greg Lemon
TR250

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Date: Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
To: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>, Triumph Mailing List <
triumphs at autox.team.net>


I agree with Mark, focus on shocks and rear shock links especially. I once
broke a rear shock link and the car bounced badly. I'd stay away from rear
tube conversions, those upgraded rear lever shocks you're ordering will
work
just fine. If the new shocks don't fix the issues and you still want to
replace springs I'd suggest buying the Goodparts set offered for a TR6
along
with spacers to regain original height. If you decide to go lower you'll
have front and rear camber issues to deal with. Goodparts rear trailing arm
brackets will allow you to regain correct camber but the front will go to
too much negative camber. The only way to correct the front is to somehow
modify the upper A-arms or buy one of the English suppliers kits for upper
A-arm adjustment. My guess is your springs are just fine and you'll find
your problem is associated with the rear shocks and or shock links.
Goodparts also makes an excellent replacement shock link kit too. Let us
know how it works out.

JVV

-----Original Message-----
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 10:45 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

All,

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's
time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on
a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with
the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly
enough.
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered
some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward
three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want
to
keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.

Any experienced-based suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph





** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Sep  2 17:32:36 2019
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 19:32:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaCz6T2pauBjzqGN+-0o8H0jd7MmdZY6teT5gpdOZENVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <85FA3AAFBC84409197B11A088439C96F@VlackTK121647>
 <CAFtw3aaCz6T2pauBjzqGN+-0o8H0jd7MmdZY6teT5gpdOZENVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9A110F4822FE4CE085AADE217560E5F2@VlackTK121647>

If you use the 1? shortened springs without spacers to regain original height with no shims on the lower A Arms you still can not get the proper camber. Been there and done that, only way was to somehow lengthen the upper A-arms. I have modified uppers which now allow adjustment out to get 1 degree negative camber. Never tried with spacers since I wanted the car lowered an inch.
JVV

From: Greg Lemon 
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 7:10 PM
To: Triumphs 
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

RE: Adjusting front camber, can't you do the with the shims that mount between lower a-arms and the frame? 

Also agree the rear sounds like a shock problem.

Greg Lemon
TR250

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Date: Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
To: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>, Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>



I agree with Mark, focus on shocks and rear shock links especially. I once 
broke a rear shock link and the car bounced badly. I'd stay away from rear 
tube conversions, those upgraded rear lever shocks you're ordering will work 
just fine. If the new shocks don't fix the issues and you still want to 
replace springs I'd suggest buying the Goodparts set offered for a TR6 along 
with spacers to regain original height. If you decide to go lower you'll 
have front and rear camber issues to deal with. Goodparts rear trailing arm 
brackets will allow you to regain correct camber but the front will go to 
too much negative camber. The only way to correct the front is to somehow 
modify the upper A-arms or buy one of the English suppliers kits for upper 
A-arm adjustment. My guess is your springs are just fine and you'll find 
your problem is associated with the rear shocks and or shock links. 
Goodparts also makes an excellent replacement shock link kit too. Let us 
know how it works out.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, September 1, 2019 10:45 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

All,

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's 
time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on 
a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with 
the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly 
enough.
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered 
some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward 
three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to 
keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.

Any experienced-based suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph





** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 17:43:50 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 19:43:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Inlet manifold
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtCPgE86CyM+JFoeCSmo9fCW3Y5Kei28ygPi7k8+qugyQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am about out of light and don't want to crawwwl underneath the car, but
how many bolts holding the intake manifold to the head are there?
It doesn't want to break free of the head and I don't want to force it?
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From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Mon Sep  2 18:04:31 2019
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (Tom Walling)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:04:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
Message-ID: <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>

I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 

Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 


> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Paul,
> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the studs.  
> Bill B
> 
> Sent from my IBM 8088
> 
> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda tilting backwards?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 
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> 
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 18:15:29 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:15:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <3D2A3BDD-4F46-4765-BCBC-FDDDA29C4B5F@gmail.com>

That?s my favorite.  Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:04 PM, Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 
> 
> Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 
> 
> 
>> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Paul,
>> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the studs.  
>> Bill B
>> 
>> Sent from my IBM 8088
>> 
>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda tilting backwards?
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
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From loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Sep  2 18:15:42 2019
From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 00:15:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1596104691.1627908.1567469742379@mail.yahoo.com>




I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 

Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook.



I have often seen mention of removing a head off of the TR2 through the TR3B while using this "trick".? Wouldn't you risk breaking the figure of eight seal??

Lou MetelkoAuburn, Indiana

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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 18:30:29 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:30:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPs7hTtNmQU_UzLK06YxDXQDrURAr2V8MgggGHpPGRrrvA@mail.gmail.com>

Your right, those were engine removing instructions.  Was I suppose to
remove the rocker arm first?  Do I need to remove the manifolds before
loosening the head?
If so, then I might have already screwed up.  With all eight head bolts
loosened will I possibly do any loosening of the piston sleeves by trying
to break the manifolds loose?  Without the manifolds off, I didn't get the
head out.  Oh well, always tomorrow.


On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Paul,
> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the
> head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the
> studs.
> Bill B
>
> Sent from my IBM 8088
>
> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda
> tilting backwards?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
>
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Sep  2 18:32:48 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:32:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <3D2A3BDD-4F46-4765-BCBC-FDDDA29C4B5F@gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
 <3D2A3BDD-4F46-4765-BCBC-FDDDA29C4B5F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ca01d561ef$1d206d00$57614700$@charter.net>

I think the concern was to minimize the possibility of the cylinder liners being dislodged.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2019 8:15 PM
To: Tom Walling
Cc: Triumph list Team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] removing my head

That?s my favorite.  Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:04 PM, Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 
> 
> Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 
> 
> 
>> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Paul,
>> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the studs.  
>> Bill B
>> 
>> Sent from my IBM 8088
>> 
>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda tilting backwards?
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 18:54:19 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:54:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <00ca01d561ef$1d206d00$57614700$@charter.net>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
 <3D2A3BDD-4F46-4765-BCBC-FDDDA29C4B5F@gmail.com>
 <00ca01d561ef$1d206d00$57614700$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPv5TB=xn1JJBtgiZrvPd1w0aaY3TzF-uWmPtbyQzyS57Q@mail.gmail.com>

 I first loosened The manifold nuts, and then loosen the head nuts and that
was the end of the first day. Although these nuts have  been loosened  now,
 nothing has broken loose from its original tightness.  I tapped on the
intake manifold and then  freaked out  that it might break the cylinder
loose and I certainly don?t want to do that so I quit Tapping. I also
wondered if I had to take the rocker  arm out first?  So far, nothing has
broken loose from its original locked  position.

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 8:33 PM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
wrote:

> I think the concern was to minimize the possibility of the cylinder liners
> being dislodged.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> James Henningsen
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2019 8:15 PM
> To: Tom Walling
> Cc: Triumph list Team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] removing my head
>
> That?s my favorite.  Jim Henningsen
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:04 PM, Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning
> "The Rope Trick"!
> >
> > Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of
> its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter
> motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No
> need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook.
> >
> >
> >> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Paul,
> >> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the
> head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the
> studs.
> >> Bill B
> >>
> >> Sent from my IBM 8088
> >>
> >> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda
> tilting backwards?
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> >>
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
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> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 19:10:07 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 21:10:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>

Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have an
aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do
they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.

  As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking, I
wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal
bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum
heads.
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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  2 19:11:32 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:11:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPv5TB=xn1JJBtgiZrvPd1w0aaY3TzF-uWmPtbyQzyS57Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
 <3D2A3BDD-4F46-4765-BCBC-FDDDA29C4B5F@gmail.com>
 <00ca01d561ef$1d206d00$57614700$@charter.net>
 <CAFU8DPv5TB=xn1JJBtgiZrvPd1w0aaY3TzF-uWmPtbyQzyS57Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <89740F78-C5C7-4E16-94C6-8E824AED84F0@flash.net>

Paul,
If you have removed all eight intake/exhaust manifold nuts, along with disconnecting the choke cable/fuel line/throttle linkage, you should be able to give it a good wiggle and pull it back out of the way.  Pick it up and set it aside, leave the exhaust manifold just pulled back a little from the head.  

Now, when I have all the stud nuts off I just use a very large screwdriver or tyre tool between the water inlet at the front and the water pump to break the seal and lift the head off.  If you don?t have all the rigging to lift it that high, ask a friend to help.  Have never used the rope trick.  
Bill 

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 2, 2019, at 7:54 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

 I first loosened The manifold nuts, and then loosen the head nuts and that was the end of the first day. Although these nuts have  been loosened  now,  nothing has broken loose from its original tightness.  I tapped on the intake manifold and then  freaked out  that it might break the cylinder loose and I certainly don?t want to do that so I quit Tapping. I also wondered if I had to take the rocker  arm out first?  So far, nothing has broken loose from its original locked  position. 

> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 8:33 PM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> I think the concern was to minimize the possibility of the cylinder liners being dislodged.
> 
> Alex Thomson
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Monday, September 02, 2019 8:15 PM
> To: Tom Walling
> Cc: Triumph list Team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] removing my head
> 
> That?s my favorite.  Jim Henningsen 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:04 PM, Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 
> > 
> > Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 
> > 
> > 
> >> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Paul,
> >> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the studs.  
> >> Bill B
> >> 
> >> Sent from my IBM 8088
> >> 
> >> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda tilting backwards?
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >> 
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> >> 
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> >> 
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >> 
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> >> 
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
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> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
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** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  2 19:18:22 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:18:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>

Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.  I don?t worry about any sequence for loosening, for tightening  use the sequence in the book, after tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs through the sequence until you get to the specified 105ftlbs.  
Bill

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
  
  As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum heads.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Sep  2 19:44:10 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:44:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <003101d561f9$172b43c0$4581cb40$@ranteer.com>

+1 on the rope trick

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Walling
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 7:05 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net; Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] removing my head

I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning
"The Rope Trick"! 

Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its
rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to
break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for
cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 


> On September 2, 2019 at 12:20 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Paul,
> That sounds more like the instructions for engine removal, not just the
head.  You pull straight up to remove the head so as not to bind on the
studs.  
> Bill B
> 
> Sent from my IBM 8088
> 
> On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:51 AM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> why does the online manual tend to  say the engine needs to be kinda
tilting backwards?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Sep  2 19:50:29 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 19:50:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>

On 9/2/2019 7:10 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Gotcha!? I may be dumb but ? I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t 
> have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our 
> motor or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
> ? As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on, ?I got to 
> thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head 
> nuts . ? Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for 
> something like aluminum heads.


There have been attempts at making aluminum heads for the wet-sleeve 
engines, but they've been largely unsuccessful, for one major 
reason--they have been designed as analogues of the cast-iron head done 
in aluminum--dimensionally and in configuration, they're duplicates of 
the original.? For that reason, they don't have the mechanical strength 
of the cast-iron heads, and can't force down the liners as well as the 
originals, and therefore tend to leak.? There are a couple of people on 
the lists who have installed them on their engines.

The problem is beam strength.? Cast aluminum simply isn't as strong as 
cast iron, so if the dimensions are identical, then the cast aluminum 
head will tend to bend around the liners rather than punching them down 
into the figure-eight gaskets.? That produces leaks at the head gasket.? 
An aluminum head for the engine is a good idea, but not as currently 
done.? Future examples really should consider radical redesigns to 
accommodate wet-sleeve construction, in the way of increasing beam 
strength.? I've done some preliminary work on just that--thicker, taller 
heads in which the outer perimeter is raised and thickened, using a 
flatter cast valve cover socketed into the upper surface so it occupies 
the same space.? And, of course, adding crossflow port configuration, 
which should have been done right from the start.? It also wouldn't hurt 
to machine the block lower cylinder lands smooth and machine the 
cylinders for o-rings, which solves the figure-8 gasket compression 
sealing problem.? The cylinders only need to stand proud enough (a 
thousandth or so) to ensure that the cylinder head locks them to the 
block so they don't travel up and down with piston motion.

Something like that would work pretty well, methinks.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 19:53:58 2019
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:53:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC3qoa1U7GsAraogRhUPWBi5RC_Jmohs1w7H6_PHo4dMA@mail.gmail.com>

I believe the aluminum head marketed by Moss and developed through the
cooperation and financial capital of the TR Register (UK) Spares
Development Fund has been pretty successful.  At least in terms of numbers
sold it has, and I've not heard of any inherent issues with it.

Not for everyone, of course, but for those who are interested this is an
option.

Don
Saint Louis MO
1962 TR3B

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 8:50 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> On 9/2/2019 7:10 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> > Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t
> > have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our
> > motor or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
> >   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to
> > thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head
> > nuts .   Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for
> > something like aluminum heads.
>
>
> There have been attempts at making aluminum heads for the wet-sleeve
> engines, but they've been largely unsuccessful, for one major
> reason--they have been designed as analogues of the cast-iron head done
> in aluminum--dimensionally and in configuration, they're duplicates of
> the original.  For that reason, they don't have the mechanical strength
> of the cast-iron heads, and can't force down the liners as well as the
> originals, and therefore tend to leak.  There are a couple of people on
> the lists who have installed them on their engines.
>
> The problem is beam strength.  Cast aluminum simply isn't as strong as
> cast iron, so if the dimensions are identical, then the cast aluminum
> head will tend to bend around the liners rather than punching them down
> into the figure-eight gaskets.  That produces leaks at the head gasket.
> An aluminum head for the engine is a good idea, but not as currently
> done.  Future examples really should consider radical redesigns to
> accommodate wet-sleeve construction, in the way of increasing beam
> strength.  I've done some preliminary work on just that--thicker, taller
> heads in which the outer perimeter is raised and thickened, using a
> flatter cast valve cover socketed into the upper surface so it occupies
> the same space.  And, of course, adding crossflow port configuration,
> which should have been done right from the start.  It also wouldn't hurt
> to machine the block lower cylinder lands smooth and machine the
> cylinders for o-rings, which solves the figure-8 gasket compression
> sealing problem.  The cylinders only need to stand proud enough (a
> thousandth or so) to ensure that the cylinder head locks them to the
> block so they don't travel up and down with piston motion.
>
> Something like that would work pretty well, methinks.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> distance....
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 20:19:03 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:19:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks!

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.  I don?t worry about any
> sequence for loosening, for tightening  use the sequence in the book, after
> tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs through the sequence
> until you get to the specified 105ftlbs.
> Bill
>
> Sent from my IBM 8088
>
> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have
> an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or
> do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>
>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking,
> I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal
> bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum
> heads.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 20:25:18 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:25:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
 <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>

Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines?  What was the weekness of this
idea?

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks!
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>
>> Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.  I don?t worry about
>> any sequence for loosening, for tightening  use the sequence in the book,
>> after tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs through the
>> sequence until you get to the specified 105ftlbs.
>> Bill
>>
>> Sent from my IBM 8088
>>
>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have
>> an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or
>> do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>>
>>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking,
>> I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal
>> bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum
>> heads.
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>>
>>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 20:38:05 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:38:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the
spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the
head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 20:38:40 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 21:38:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
 <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZpHnF5MeG1+0c3LQ6A2A6fDRTdfPYBQv-8Qrj=2n5KzA@mail.gmail.com>

On the manifold, not much concern about loosening the liners when you take
the manifold off, manifold shouldn't be stuck with all the nuts off, a
little leverage or soft pop with a lead hammer should take it right off.

Your main concern RE the liners popping loose is turning the engine,
pulling the head off or jockeying it around shouldn't loosen them up,
friction from rings on liner sliding up might.

Greg Lemon
TR250
On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 9:25 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines?  What was the weekness of
> this idea?
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.  I don?t worry about
>>> any sequence for loosening, for tightening  use the sequence in the book,
>>> after tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs through the
>>> sequence until you get to the specified 105ftlbs.
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Sent from my IBM 8088
>>>
>>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have
>>> an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or
>>> do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>>>
>>>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to
>>> thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .
>>>  Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like
>>> aluminum heads.
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Sep  2 20:41:37 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 20:41:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
 <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <199d1b2a-e555-ea58-3f86-e14233df2376@dfn.com>

On 9/2/2019 8:25 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines?? What was the weekness of 
> this idea?

Remember that the wet-sleeve engine in your car was first introduced 
with the Standard Vanguard in something like 1937-38. It was expensive 
to remove an engine for machining the bores, and with wet sleeves, the 
bores could be removed and replaced with the block in the car, or, in a 
pinch, machined on a lathe.? And, there was good heat transfer from the 
bores to the coolant, so it made sense at the time.? The other 
consideration was that the material that made really long-lasting 
cylinder bore material wasn't that easy to cast in big lumps, like 
engine blocks, without defects. And, an engine block with all that open 
space without cast-in-place bores was simpler to design and cast, and 
was more tolerant of commonplace errors in casting such as core shifts.

Over time, casting science improved, cylinder blocks were improved, 
materials science produced iron alloys that flowed well /and/ had good 
bore-wear characteristics, so wet-sleeve engines became pretty rare 
(except for really huge stationary engines which can't just be yanked 
and sent to the machine shop).


Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 20:51:07 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:51:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aZpHnF5MeG1+0c3LQ6A2A6fDRTdfPYBQv-8Qrj=2n5KzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
 <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZpHnF5MeG1+0c3LQ6A2A6fDRTdfPYBQv-8Qrj=2n5KzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPtNq+eJi3q-q+t7bSArwAFZzmZshVQ2DPHn5Pi=vYjmyg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the tip. Is there a total of eight nuts holding the manifolds
on?  I've only removed the top 4 so far.

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:38 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

> On the manifold, not much concern about loosening the liners when you take
> the manifold off, manifold shouldn't be stuck with all the nuts off, a
> little leverage or soft pop with a lead hammer should take it right off.
>
> Your main concern RE the liners popping loose is turning the engine,
> pulling the head off or jockeying it around shouldn't loosen them up,
> friction from rings on liner sliding up might.
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 9:25 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines?  What was the weekness of
>> this idea?
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.  I don?t worry about
>>>> any sequence for loosening, for tightening  use the sequence in the book,
>>>> after tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs through the
>>>> sequence until you get to the specified 105ftlbs.
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my IBM 8088
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t
>>>> have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor
>>>> or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>>>>
>>>>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to
>>>> thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .
>>>>  Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like
>>>> aluminum heads.
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>>
>
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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  2 21:11:45 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:11:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <DCBD7D09-014D-47A5-B4F6-AB94C4D4E961@flash.net>

Oh wow, my ?66 TR4 Motor has an aluminium head, am I doomed?  Discovered a water leak after I bought it, bad weld job on the one of channels in the block that fouled the head seal.  Filed it, fixed it, remember only 70ftlbs on the studs.  ISTR the liners were not as proud of the block as some say they should be.  
Bill
Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:50 PM, Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> On 9/2/2019 7:10 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum heads.


There have been attempts at making aluminum heads for the wet-sleeve engines, but they've been largely unsuccessful, for one major reason--they have been designed as analogues of the cast-iron head done in aluminum--dimensionally and in configuration, they're duplicates of the original.  For that reason, they don't have the mechanical strength of the cast-iron heads, and can't force down the liners as well as the originals, and therefore tend to leak.  There are a couple of people on the lists who have installed them on their engines.

The problem is beam strength.  Cast aluminum simply isn't as strong as cast iron, so if the dimensions are identical, then the cast aluminum head will tend to bend around the liners rather than punching them down into the figure-eight gaskets.  That produces leaks at the head gasket.  An aluminum head for the engine is a good idea, but not as currently done.  Future examples really should consider radical redesigns to accommodate wet-sleeve construction, in the way of increasing beam strength.  I've done some preliminary work on just that--thicker, taller heads in which the outer perimeter is raised and thickened, using a flatter cast valve cover socketed into the upper surface so it occupies the same space.  And, of course, adding crossflow port configuration, which should have been done right from the start.  It also wouldn't hurt to machine the block lower cylinder lands smooth and machine the cylinders for o-rings, which solves the figure-8 gasket compression sealing problem.  The cylinders only need to stand proud enough (a thousandth or so) to ensure that the cylinder head locks them to the block so they don't travel up and down with piston motion.

Something like that would work prettyOn 9/2/2019 7:10 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Gotcha!  I may be dumb but   I I am dumb, but,I?m no dummy, I don?t have an aluminum head on my motor. Do theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do they? Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>   As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,  I got to thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for loosening these head nuts .   Metal bends, You know. Perhaps that is more critical for something like aluminum heads.


There have been attempts at making aluminum heads for the wet-sleeve engines, but they've been largely unsuccessful, for one major reason--they have been designed as analogues of the cast-iron head done in aluminum--dimensionally and in configuration, they're duplicates of the original.  For that reason, they don't have the mechanical strength of the cast-iron heads, and can't force down the liners as well as the originals, and therefore tend to leak.  There are a couple of people on the lists who have installed them on their engines.

The problem is beam strength.  Cast aluminum simply isn't as strong as cast iron, so if the dimensions are identical, then the cast aluminum head will tend to bend around the liners rather than punching them down into the figure-eight gaskets.  That produces leaks at the head gasket.  An aluminum head for the engine is a good idea, but not as currently done.  Future examples really should consider radical redesigns to accommodate wet-sleeve construction, in the way of increasing beam strength.  I've done some preliminary work on just that--thicker, taller heads in which the outer perimeter is raised and thickened, using a flatter cast valve cover socketed into the upper surface so it occupies the same space.  And, of course, adding crossflow port configuration, which should have been done right from the start.  It also wouldn't hurt to machine the block lower cylinder lands smooth and machine the cylinders for o-rings, which solves the figure-8 gasket compression sealing problem.  The cylinders only need to stand proud enough (a thousandth or so) to ensure that the cylinder head locks them to the block so they don't travel up and down with piston motion.

Something like that would work pretty well, methinks.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Sep  2 21:39:54 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 21:39:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <DCBD7D09-014D-47A5-B4F6-AB94C4D4E961@flash.net>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
 <DCBD7D09-014D-47A5-B4F6-AB94C4D4E961@flash.net>
Message-ID: <89aef268-24b9-b7f0-6346-0294c06fa2d8@dfn.com>

On 9/2/2019 9:11 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Oh wow, my ?66 TR4 Motor has an aluminium head, am I doomed?  Discovered a water leak after I bought it, bad weld job on the one of channels in the block that fouled the head seal.  Filed it, fixed it, remember only 70ftlbs on the studs.  ISTR the liners were not as proud of the block as some say they should be.

You've probably averted problems because the liners weren't sticking up 
to spec (especially toward the high side of the tolerance).

It's a curious situation.? The heads aren't wildly popular because of 
the price, so the number of them actually out there is pretty small, 
relatively speaking.? But, they also might be fairly rare because the 
few people that did buy them couldn't get them to seal and, thinking it 
was their fault, that there was something special about the product that 
they didn't understand, and went back to cast-iron heads.

I knew there was at least one person on the list with one, and I think 
two, because I remember a message maybe a couple of decades ago, in the 
early days of the list, from someone having trouble getting one to seal 
properly.

(Not against aluminum heads, at all.? There are advantages to them.? I 
just think, because of the small variability of the figure-eight gaskets 
and the cylinder heights, that they're probably ill-suited, in the 
configuration they're being produced, for wet-sleeve engines.? I've been 
designing, off and on, on a 4-valve OHC head for the GT6 which, now that 
there's machinable wax available for 3D-printers, can be 3D-printed and 
investment-cast.)


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Sep  2 21:41:22 2019
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 22:41:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPtNq+eJi3q-q+t7bSArwAFZzmZshVQ2DPHn5Pi=vYjmyg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <9A6CB0F6-5B68-4B04-A24B-C45E5270EDC1@flash.net>
 <CAFU8DPtX=3+oxDCjOOCcUbN09qfHM3WrmUoBkqXSGoCHo30vKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFU8DPs79VTKzTLNXJHOs7d_mkgb+9ZkPfwp+KnF71WUxmo9gg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZpHnF5MeG1+0c3LQ6A2A6fDRTdfPYBQv-8Qrj=2n5KzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFU8DPtNq+eJi3q-q+t7bSArwAFZzmZshVQ2DPHn5Pi=vYjmyg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a4f027de-0c4f-8737-378b-205d68f5efe5@tonydrews.com>

There are 8 nuts for the manifolds - 4 across the top, one each at the 
front and rear of the exhaust manifold down a bit lower and a pair under 
the manifolds.

You can see the studs for 6 of them here, the rear exhaust bolt is under 
the rear bracket at the bottom.? The front exhaust bolt goes through a 
hole just above the little ear on the left of the water pump.

http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0117.JPG

I'd be nervous about the rope trick if you want to keep the liners in 
place.? I think that's better used if you're going to do a full rebuild 
so will be removing liners later.? An alternate version is a way to hold 
valves in place while they are serviced with the head on the engine though.

I've always needed to pull the rocker shaft to get to the head studs 
under the rocker shaft, but if you can remove them without pulling the 
rockers that's OK too.? I'd be happier with the rocker shaft off and the 
pushrods pulled out (be careful doing that so you don't pull out a 
tappet - although with the head off it's easy to put the tappet back).? 
There are 10 head bolts / studs.

Cheers, Tony

On 9/2/2019 9:51 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Thanks for the tip. Is there a total of eight nuts holding the 
> manifolds on?? I've only removed the top 4 so far.
>
> On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:38 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com 
> <mailto:grglmn at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     On the manifold, not much concern about loosening the liners when
>     you take the manifold off, manifold shouldn't be stuck with all
>     the nuts off, a little leverage or soft pop with a lead hammer
>     should take it right off.
>
>     Your main concern RE the liners popping loose is turning the
>     engine, pulling the head off or jockeying it around shouldn't
>     loosen them up, friction from rings on liner sliding up might.
>
>     Greg Lemon
>     TR250
>     On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 9:25 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com
>     <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>         Why don't more cars have wet sleeve engines?? What was the
>         weekness of this idea?
>
>         On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 10:19 PM Paul Dorsey
>         <dorpaul1 at gmail.com <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>             Thanks!
>
>             On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 9:18 PM Wbeech at flash.net
>             <mailto:Wbeech at flash.net> <wbeech at flash.net
>             <mailto:wbeech at flash.net>> wrote:
>
>                 Yes, Moss carries an aluminum head, about $3,000.? I
>                 don?t worry about any sequence for loosening, for
>                 tightening? use the sequence in the book, after
>                 tightening to 50ftlbs tighten in steps of 20ftlbs
>                 through the sequence until you get to the specified
>                 105ftlbs.
>                 Bill
>
>                 Sent from my IBM 8088
>
>                 On Sep 2, 2019, at 8:10 PM, Paul Dorsey
>                 <dorpaul1 at gmail.com <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>                 Gotcha!? I may be dumb but? ?I I am dumb, but,I?m no
>                 dummy, I don?t have an aluminum head on my motor. Do
>                 theymake aluminum heads for our motor or do they?
>                 Anyway they?re out of my price range.
>
>                 ? As I was loosening the bolts that hold the head on,?
>                 I got to thinking, I wonder if there is a sequence for
>                 loosening these head nuts . ?Metal bends, You know.
>                 Perhaps that is more critical for something like
>                 aluminum heads.
>
>                 ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>                 <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep  2 22:35:43 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2019 23:35:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <89aef268-24b9-b7f0-6346-0294c06fa2d8@dfn.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
 <DCBD7D09-014D-47A5-B4F6-AB94C4D4E961@flash.net>
 <89aef268-24b9-b7f0-6346-0294c06fa2d8@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abvNa8L5TBDHnEQ6edmPYyhAgYXOcn-wmOPsybva2AXBA@mail.gmail.com>

So will an aluminum cross flow GT6 head fit a 2.5 liter too?  If so the
offset bonnet bulge club would like to know which side is intake on?

My work on my high flow cast iron head has kind of stalled out.

Greg Lemon
TR250


On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 10:40 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> On 9/2/2019 9:11 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> > Oh wow, my ?66 TR4 Motor has an aluminium head, am I doomed?  Discovered
> a water leak after I bought it, bad weld job on the one of channels in the
> block that fouled the head seal.  Filed it, fixed it, remember only 70ftlbs
> on the studs.  ISTR the liners were not as proud of the block as some say
> they should be.
>
> You've probably averted problems because the liners weren't sticking up
> to spec (especially toward the high side of the tolerance).
>
> It's a curious situation.  The heads aren't wildly popular because of
> the price, so the number of them actually out there is pretty small,
> relatively speaking.  But, they also might be fairly rare because the
> few people that did buy them couldn't get them to seal and, thinking it
> was their fault, that there was something special about the product that
> they didn't understand, and went back to cast-iron heads.
>
> I knew there was at least one person on the list with one, and I think
> two, because I remember a message maybe a couple of decades ago, in the
> early days of the list, from someone having trouble getting one to seal
> properly.
>
> (Not against aluminum heads, at all.  There are advantages to them.  I
> just think, because of the small variability of the figure-eight gaskets
> and the cylinder heights, that they're probably ill-suited, in the
> configuration they're being produced, for wet-sleeve engines.  I've been
> designing, off and on, on a 4-valve OHC head for the GT6 which, now that
> there's machinable wax available for 3D-printers, can be 3D-printed and
> investment-cast.)
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> distance....
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  3 05:56:50 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 11:56:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
In-Reply-To: <89aef268-24b9-b7f0-6346-0294c06fa2d8@dfn.com>
References: <CAFU8DPtigqVK_daZqMh3ZYO-fLWLBfwXL07-Yq5XRiGh-0RU2Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c66ccc3c-a71b-3e02-fc2d-a27f8bf039d7@dfn.com>
 <DCBD7D09-014D-47A5-B4F6-AB94C4D4E961@flash.net>
 <89aef268-24b9-b7f0-6346-0294c06fa2d8@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <419750242.1037472.1567511810466@mail.yahoo.com>

Way cool.? I'll bet there's a market for it if it can be adapted to the TR6.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>


(Not against aluminum heads, at all.? There are advantages to them.? I 
just think, because of the small variability of the figure-eight gaskets 
and the cylinder heights, that they're probably ill-suited, in the 
configuration they're being produced, for wet-sleeve engines.? I've been 
designing, off and on, on a 4-valve OHC head for the GT6 which, now that 
there's machinable wax available for 3D-printers, can be 3D-printed and 
investment-cast.)


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  3 06:05:07 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 12:05:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Aluminum head?
References: <2014977501.1041740.1567512307377.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2014977501.1041740.1567512307377@mail.yahoo.com>

 The combustion chamber size will need to be bigger to avoid having a compression ratio of 15:1. OK, maybe a little hyperbolic but the longer stroke needs a larger chamber.? A friend had issues on his TR250 which turned out to be a GT6 head on the 250 block.? Compression was crazy high and the intake manifold didn't quite fit.
But I agree with you.? There are quite a few TR6 owners with deep pockets (just ask Rich Good) and an OHC inline 6 is way cool.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
To: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 11:36 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum head?

So will an aluminum cross flow GT6 head fit a 2.5 liter too?? If so the offset bonnet bulge club would like to know which side is intake on?
My work on my high flow cast iron head has kind of stalled out.?

Greg LemonTR250

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 10:40 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

On 9/2/2019 9:11 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Oh wow, my ?66 TR4 Motor has an aluminium head, am I doomed?? Discovered a water leak after I bought it, bad weld job on the one of channels in the block that fouled the head seal.? Filed it, fixed it, remember only 70ftlbs on the studs.? ISTR the liners were not as proud of the block as some say they should be.

You've probably averted problems because the liners weren't sticking up 
to spec (especially toward the high side of the tolerance).

It's a curious situation.? The heads aren't wildly popular because of 
the price, so the number of them actually out there is pretty small, 
relatively speaking.? But, they also might be fairly rare because the 
few people that did buy them couldn't get them to seal and, thinking it 
was their fault, that there was something special about the product that 
they didn't understand, and went back to cast-iron heads.

I knew there was at least one person on the list with one, and I think 
two, because I remember a message maybe a couple of decades ago, in the 
early days of the list, from someone having trouble getting one to seal 
properly.

(Not against aluminum heads, at all.? There are advantages to them.? I 
just think, because of the small variability of the figure-eight gaskets 
and the cylinder heights, that they're probably ill-suited, in the 
configuration they're being produced, for wet-sleeve engines.? I've been 
designing, off and on, on a 4-valve OHC head for the GT6 which, now that 
there's machinable wax available for 3D-printers, can be 3D-printed and 
investment-cast.)


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



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From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk  Tue Sep  3 06:06:28 2019
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 13:06:28 +0100
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lucas PI
In-Reply-To: <1516941180.706764.1567274981649@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net>
 <1C5BD9B2-40D9-4E47-B09C-26949D2519DC@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <1516941180.706764.1567274981649@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001c01d56250$049ab090$0dd011b0$@ukpips.org.uk>

Hi, Raymond

 

Great to hear from you again but the generous accolade is I feel perhaps a little misplaced?

 

I somehow dropped off the 6Pack email list some years back and periodically received the odd message and it seems some who I remember from the older(?) triumphs at autox had migrated, so thought I?d better tag along too. 

 

I?m now entirely Triumph-less as I live in the middle of a very old English town in a house that was built long before the days of the car. No garage or chance of obtaining one in which to keep a classic car and I?ve now reached a stage in life where getting my hands filthy and crawling around under an old car for pleasure has very limited appeal. Good food, good wine and the company of interesting ladies of a similar age has far more appeal and come 9.00pm, it?s getting near my bedtime?

 

Keep the posts coming. I read them all.

 

Cheers, Jonmac

 

From: Raymond Hatfield <iron_horse819 at yahoo.com> 
Sent: 31 August 2019 19:10
To: John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>; John Macartney via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI

 

Hello Jonmac,

 

It's been a long time since I last saw you on here, glad to see you're still doing well. I think this list could ask for no finer resource on all things Triumph than you.

 

Take care,

Raymond.L Hatfield 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> 

 

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 5:49 PM, John Macartney via 6pack

<6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote:

_______________________________________________
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  3 06:10:24 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 12:10:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] removing my head
In-Reply-To: <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPvqOWOU7Mz5dMVSChqdu5t0sAfjbkDCk0Vr7K0QCTVo6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <5D4F2720-F780-4FB4-AAE7-43BFC46768BE@flash.net>
 <532051164.247606.1567469071776@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1826054054.1038000.1567512624304@mail.yahoo.com>

 Be sure to remove the rocker assembly first.? You can bend a valve if you do this with one open.
This, of course, is a moot point since the rocker assembly must come off to access the head nuts.? Jus' sayin'. 

I did one better.? I shoved rope into #1 and #6 to lift both ends simultaneously.? But this was a TR6 with no loose liners to worry about.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net>
To: Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>; Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 2, 2019 7:04 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] removing my head

I am amazed that this thread has gone this far without anyone mentioning "The Rope Trick"! 

Stuff a length of rope into one of the cylinders (one near the bottom of its rotation) until the cylinder is full of rope. Then use the starter motor to break the head gasket seal and lift the head off the block. No need for cranes, pulleys, explosives, or a Sky-hook. 



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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep  3 11:05:08 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 10:05:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFgu41WJVZjuxv97z0jmXuZLntsNYz+LOzZVA0NTWTDLw@mail.gmail.com>

I dint have much with that rope trick on a Stag's head. but you may find
someone who made a head removing tool

Sujit

On Mon, Sep 2, 2019 at 7:38 PM Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down
> the spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the
> head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep  3 12:09:47 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 13:09:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.69.1567534190.2434.triumphs@autox.team.net>

The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off any other way.  In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.  But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained either).

I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to the ?rope trick?.  Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.

- Randall

From: Paul Dorsey
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
To: Me; Triumph list Team.net
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy

Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the spark? plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the head gasket seal?? I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Sep  3 12:32:14 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2019 13:32:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <20190903181019.E48D6A03EF@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.70.1567535538.2434.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I have used the rope trick once or twice; my neighbor used it his tr6.? We both thought it was easy and convenient.? Guess i should have damaged some parts first so that it became an emergency
-------- Original message --------From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> Date: 9/3/19  1:09 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>, "Triumph list Team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off any other way.? In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.? But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained either).?I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to the ?rope trick?. ?Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.?- Randall?From: Paul DorseySent: Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PMTo: Me; Triumph list Team.netSubject: [TR] rope trick thingy?Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the spark? plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the head gasket seal?? I thought someone said not to turn over the engine??
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  3 13:15:47 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 19:15:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
References: <115696301.1185229.1567538147772.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <115696301.1185229.1567538147772@mail.yahoo.com>

 The Stag and TR7 are problematic for a couple of reasons.? One is you have an aluminum head on a cast iron block.? Another is that there are steel studs running though holes in the aluminum head and the reaction of dis-similar metals can be ugly.? The third problem is that the studs don't all run parallel and the head does not just lift off of them as does the heads on earlier TR's.
The Triumph Wedge club has a loaner head puller designed for TR7's which may work on both sides on the Stag.? 

Furthermore, these engines have overhead cams and unless you remove the cam before trying the Rope Trick Thingy you run the chance of bending a valve if it happens to be open at the time.? 

Another day of living the dream.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team. net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 3, 2019 1:10 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy

#yiv8329242614 #yiv8329242614 -- _filtered #yiv8329242614 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8329242614 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv8329242614 #yiv8329242614 p.yiv8329242614MsoNormal, #yiv8329242614 li.yiv8329242614MsoNormal, #yiv8329242614 div.yiv8329242614MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv8329242614 a:link, #yiv8329242614 span.yiv8329242614MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv8329242614 a:visited, #yiv8329242614 span.yiv8329242614MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv8329242614 .yiv8329242614MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv8329242614 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv8329242614 div.yiv8329242614WordSection1 {} #yiv8329242614 The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off any other way.? In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.? But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained either). ?I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to the ?rope trick?. ?Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me. ?- Randall ?From: Paul Dorsey
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
To: Me; Triumph list Team.net
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy ?Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the spark? plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the head gasket seal?? I thought someone said not to turn over the engine? ?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Sep  3 14:40:07 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 16:40:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <20190903183544.A191EA1B5A@autox.team.net>
References: <20190903183544.A191EA1B5A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5f0c6c35-7e0c-7729-eaeb-c0a53eead350@verizon.net>

...many times simply putting the plugs in...the compression is enough to 
pop a head loose.

ptegler

On 9/3/2019 2:32 PM, dave wrote:
> I have used the rope trick once or twice; my neighbor used it his 
> tr6.?? We both thought it was easy and convenient.?? Guess i should have 
> damaged some parts first so that it became an emergency
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Date: 9/3/19 1:09 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>, "Triumph list Team.net" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy
>
> The ???rope trick??? is for emergencies, when you just can???t get the head 
> off any other way.?? In that case, chances are good that the liners are 
> so stuck they don???t need to be retained.?? But also, IMO, if it???s that 
> bad, it???s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don???t 
> need to be retained either).
>
> I???ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort 
> to the ???rope trick???. ??Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real 
> challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.
>
> - Randall
>
> *From: *Paul Dorsey <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
> *To: *Me <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net 
> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] rope trick thingy
>
> Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder 
> down the spark?? plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston 
> breaks the head gasket seal??? I thought someone said not to turn over 
> the engine?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  3 16:05:17 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 18:05:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] rope...now breaking it loose?
In-Reply-To: <115696301.1185229.1567538147772@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <115696301.1185229.1567538147772.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <115696301.1185229.1567538147772@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPsjPMo93UnsEbuPzBp1waAdPvSEb6NMcnNBdWje87jiVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Since I have loosened both manifolds and head nuts can I now tap on the
Manifold with a cold chisel but do so in a gentle manner so that they?ll
come off the block?  Paul

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 3:15 PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> The Stag and TR7 are problematic for a couple of reasons.  One is you have
> an aluminum head on a cast iron block.  Another is that there are steel
> studs running though holes in the aluminum head and the reaction of
> dis-similar metals can be ugly.  The third problem is that the studs don't
> all run parallel and the head does not just lift off of them as does the
> heads on earlier TR's.
>
> The Triumph Wedge club has a loaner head puller designed for TR7's which
> may work on both sides on the Stag.
>
> Furthermore, these engines have overhead cams and unless you remove the
> cam before trying the Rope Trick Thingy you run the chance of bending a
> valve if it happens to be open at the time.
>
> Another day of living the dream.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team. net <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 3, 2019 1:10 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy
>
> The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off
> any other way.  In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck
> they don?t need to be retained.  But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time
> to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained
> either).
>
> I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to
> the ?rope trick?.  Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real
> challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.
>
> - Randall
>
> *From: *Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
> *To: *Me <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] rope trick thingy
>
> Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down
> the spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the
> head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  3 20:58:36 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 22:58:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <20190903181016.4223FA0EE9@autox.team.net>
 <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPvh9j8yeNEdJOMnhV=708t1+3RPiz1E9dq1qV8gjNy6oQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the tip!

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 6:26 PM Glenn A. Merrell <
controls at freelanceconsulting.net> wrote:

> Stag and TR7 heads are no longer an issue.
>
>
>
> There are cylinder head tools available that lift off even the most
> corroded heads off a Stag or TR7 engine in 30 minutes or less with no
> damage, actually taking more time to install and remove the tool than it
> takes to  lifting the head.  That is the first and last tool to use, all
> other methods are rendered obsolete and typically damage something else in
> the process.
>
> Use of the tool is free excepting you pay round trip shipping of the tool
> and replace anything you lose or break on the tool.
>
> Cheers!
>
>
>
> Glenn Merrell
>
> aka StagByTriumph Garage (*now on FaceBook*)
>
> Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in
> the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of
> manure!?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> Randall
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 3, 2019 12:10 PM
> *To:* Paul Dorsey; Triumph list Team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] rope trick thingy
>
>
>
> The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off
> any other way.  In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck
> they don?t need to be retained.  But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time
> to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained
> either).
>
>
>
> I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to
> the ?rope trick?.  Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real
> challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.
>
>
>
> - Randall
>
>
>
> *From: *Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
> *To: *Me <dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[TR] rope trick thingy
>
>
>
> Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down
> the spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the
> head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?
>
>
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  4 17:11:21 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 19:11:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
Message-ID: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>

Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
from factory?  Thanks,
Jim Henningsen


From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Sep  4 17:21:22 2019
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 18:21:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>

There was a federal law that mandated 85 mph speedometers.?? You may 
have been able to get a speedometer for a different market and install it.

Roger

On 9/4/19 6:11 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
> from factory?  Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Sep  4 17:25:37 2019
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:25:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>


By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.

-Darrell

> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:21 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:
> 
> There was a federal law that mandated 85 mph speedometers.   You may have been able to get a speedometer for a different market and install it.
> 
> Roger
> 
> On 9/4/19 6:11 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>> Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
>> from factory?  Thanks,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com


From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Sep  4 17:27:31 2019
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:27:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
Message-ID: <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>



> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.

I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.


From stan at redtr6.com  Wed Sep  4 17:41:59 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 23:41:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>,
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?

Stan
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question



> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>
>
> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.

I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Sep  4 17:46:11 2019
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:46:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>


The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.

> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
> 
> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
> 
> Stan
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>  
> 
> 
> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
> 
> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com>
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From stan at redtr6.com  Wed Sep  4 17:56:51 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 23:56:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>,
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
________________________________
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question


The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.

On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com<mailto:stan at redtr6.com>> wrote:

What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?

Stan
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com<mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question



> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com<mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> wrote:
>
>
> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.

I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Sep  4 18:07:29 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 20:07:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>,
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <008e01d5637d$e842a040$b8c7e0c0$@charter.net>

The 4 cylinder engine!

 

Alex Thomson

71 GT6

73 TR6

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stan
Foster
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2019 7:42 PM
To: Darrell Walker; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question

 

What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?

Stan

  _____  

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker
<darrellw360 at mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question 

 



> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
produced that late.

I meant to say "I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late".

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  4 18:38:23 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 20:38:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>

Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
> 
> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>  
> 
> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>> 
>> Stan
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>> > 
>> > 
>> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>> 
>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From alansalvy at gmail.com  Wed Sep  4 19:19:18 2019
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 21:19:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehTRsaMh0MCkaf+CkHkhBJnnay+AMJ-m4U62T7cm7EyBBg@mail.gmail.com>

I used to have an 81 TR8 with 85 mph speedo,  I changed it out with a 140
unit.

On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 9:02 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo
> limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it
> looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140
> so I question the validity despite the condition.
> Jim
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>
> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but
> there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a
> tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo
> gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
> *To:* Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>
>
> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to
> display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some
> fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any
> numbers.
>
> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>
> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>
> Stan
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell
> Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>
>
>
> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
> eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
> produced that late.
>
> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Thu Sep  5 05:32:23 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 07:32:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F082FA2D-B4EF-4E0A-8ACA-33ED65D4BAFE@comcast.net>

I had the same experience with World Wide Auto Parts as Dave. A quality rebuild that has preformed for years.
Best.
Bob
?72 TR6

> On Sep 2, 2019, at 6:26 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
> 
> BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs.
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> 
> All,
> 
> After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
> The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
> As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.
> 
> I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
> I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.
> 
> Any experienced-based suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph <>
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Sep  5 08:32:23 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 10:32:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>

Hi, Dave.  Just curious.  What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?  And what do you recommend?  (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)

> On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
>     I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
> 
>     BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs.
> 
>     Dave
> 
> 
> 
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
>     To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm
>     Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> 
>     All,
> 
>     After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
>     The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
>     As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.
> 
>     I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
>     I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.
> 
>     Any experienced-based suggestions?
> 
>     Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
>     Cheers,
> 
>     Guy D. Huggins
>     1965 Triumph TR4A
>     CTC 63569LO
> 
>     Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep  5 08:58:02 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 14:58:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220@mail.yahoo.com>

 I did not try changing the fluid that was put in by the rebuilder.? It was probably standard fork oil.? A heavier oil may have made the difference but I never got a roundtuit.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; gdhuggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:32 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

Hi, Dave.? Just curious.? What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?? And what do you recommend?? (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)
On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: 
 
I agree with Mark and Jerry.? Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
 BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.? The damping was inadequate.? This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.? I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.? Peter up there knows Triumphs. 

Dave  
 


-----Original Message----- 
 From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> 
 To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
 Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm 
 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs 
 
All, 

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs. 
The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.? Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough. 
As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear. 

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition. 
I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber. 

Any experienced-based suggestions? 

Thanks in advance. 


Cheers, 

Guy D. Huggins 
1965 Triumph TR4A 
CTC 63569LO 

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph 


** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net 

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep  5 09:27:47 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2019 10:27:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>

Could it have been originally delivered n another country? Maybe Canada, or a "self-import" from the UK.

I found a Coventry-made tractor on Craigslist, some little town in Indiana, even though North American versions were supposed to be built in Dearborn. No idea how it got there, but seems to be the real deal.
-- Randall

On 4 September 2019 19:38:23 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo
>limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles
>and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo
>is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
>Jim
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph
>but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing
>"half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the
>speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>  
>> 
>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed
>to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some
>fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without
>any numbers.
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>> 
>>> Stan
>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
>eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
>produced that late.
>>> 
>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that
>late?.
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Sep  5 11:20:23 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:20:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>
 <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>

Type of shock oil will definitely make a difference.  I believe (but could be wrong) that standard shock oil is 20w?  years ago I had a car where the shocks were shot.  I put 90 wt gear oil in just for grins.  Suspension was rock hard until it leaked out again.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 9:58 AM
To: terryrs at comcast.net; gdhuggins at genfiniti.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

 

I did not try changing the fluid that was put in by the rebuilder.  It was probably standard fork oil.  A heavier oil may have made the difference but I never got a roundtuit.

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> >
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >; gdhuggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> >; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:32 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

Hi, Dave.  Just curious.  What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?  And what do you recommend?  (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)

On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> > wrote: 

I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.

 

BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs. 

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> > 
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> > 
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm 
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs 

All, 

 

After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs. 

The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough. 

As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear. 

 

I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition. 

I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber. 

 

Any experienced-based suggestions? 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Cheers, 

 

Guy D. Huggins 

1965 Triumph TR4A 

CTC 63569LO 

 

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph 

 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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From coefront at shaw.ca  Thu Sep  5 12:14:21 2019
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:14:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Sale of TR8
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1567706402.30303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1567706402.30303.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DAC44D30-7F95-4B5A-B70F-8F98348B47E5@shaw.ca>



1982 TR8. This, after much thought and deliberation since last year, I?ve decided to sell.Yes, I know October 1981 was the last, but here in Canada the Triumph dealers ordered a bunch in 1981. Allowing them into Canada in1982 I understand with the capitol C part of the serial number. I?m posting this to our site here before listing in the usual places. Further details to be forwarded to genuine interest.
Mike Coe. coefront at shaw.ca <mailto:coefront at shaw.ca>. Calgary. Alberta



> On Sep 5, 2019, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. 81 TR7 question (Jim Henningsen)
>   2. Re: 81 TR7 question (Roger Elliott)
>   3. Re: 81 TR7 question (Darrell Walker)
>   4. Re: 81 TR7 question (Darrell Walker)
>   5. Re: 81 TR7 question (Stan Foster)
>   6. Re: 81 TR7 question (Darrell Walker)
>   7. Re: 81 TR7 question (Stan Foster)
>   8. Re: 81 TR7 question (Alex & Janet Thomson)
>   9. Re: 81 TR7 question (Jim Henningsen)
>  10. Re: 81 TR7 question (alan salvatore)
>  11. Re: TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs (Robert Rochlin)
>  12. Re: TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs (TERRY SMITH)
>  13. Re: TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs (DAVID MASSEY)
>  14. Re: 81 TR7 question (Randall)
>  15. Re: TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs (dave)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 19:11:21 -0400
> From: "Jim Henningsen" <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
> from factory?  Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 18:21:22 -0500
> From: Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14 at rmi.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> There was a federal law that mandated 85 mph speedometers.?? You may 
> have been able to get a speedometer for a different market and install it.
> 
> Roger
> 
> On 9/4/19 6:11 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>> Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
>> from factory?  Thanks,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:25:37 -0700
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D at mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
> 
> 
> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
> 
> -Darrell
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:21 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:
>> 
>> There was a federal law that mandated 85 mph speedometers.   You may have been able to get a speedometer for a different market and install it.
>> 
>> Roger
>> 
>> On 9/4/19 6:11 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>>> Did all 81 TR7 fuel injected cars come with 85mph or could you get a 140 mph
>>> from factory?  Thanks,
>>> Jim Henningsen
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:27:31 -0700
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1 at mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=utf-8
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
> 
> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 23:41:59 +0000
> From: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>, Triumphs
> 	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID:
> 	<BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80 at BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
> 
> Stan
> ________________________________
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
> 
> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 16:46:11 -0700
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7 at mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>> 
>> Stan
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>>
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>> 
>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com>
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 23:56:51 +0000
> From: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID:
> 	<BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80 at BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
> ________________________________
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> 
> 
> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
> 
> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com<mailto:stan at redtr6.com>> wrote:
> 
> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
> 
> Stan
> ________________________________
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com<mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com<mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
> 
> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 20:07:29 -0400
> From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
> To: "'Stan Foster'" <stan at redtr6.com>, "'Darrell Walker'"
> 	<darrellw360 at mac.com>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <008e01d5637d$e842a040$b8c7e0c0$@charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> The 4 cylinder engine!
> 
> 
> 
> Alex Thomson
> 
> 71 GT6
> 
> 73 TR6
> 
> 
> 
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stan
> Foster
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2019 7:42 PM
> To: Darrell Walker; Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> 
> 
> 
> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
> 
> Stan
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker
> <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
> eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
> produced that late.
> 
> I meant to say "I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late".
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 20:38:23 -0400
> From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
> Cc: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>, Triumphs
> 	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
> Jim
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>> 
>> 
>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>> 
>>> Stan
>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>>> 
>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 21:19:18 -0400
> From: alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com>
> To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAAAEehTRsaMh0MCkaf+CkHkhBJnnay+AMJ-m4U62T7cm7EyBBg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I used to have an 81 TR8 with 85 mph speedo,  I changed it out with a 140
> unit.
> 
> On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 9:02 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo
>> limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it
>> looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140
>> so I question the validity despite the condition.
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but
>> there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a
>> tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo
>> gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>> *To:* Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>> 
>> 
>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to
>> display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some
>> fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any
>> numbers.
>> 
>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>> 
>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>> 
>> Stan
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell
>> Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
>> eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
>> produced that late.
>> 
>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com
>> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 07:32:23 -0400
> From: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net>
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
> Cc: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> Message-ID: <F082FA2D-B4EF-4E0A-8ACA-33ED65D4BAFE at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I had the same experience with World Wide Auto Parts as Dave. A quality rebuild that has preformed for years.
> Best.
> Bob
> ?72 TR6
> 
>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 6:26 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
>> 
>> BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs.
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
>> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm
>> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
>> 
>> All,
>> 
>> After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
>> The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
>> As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.
>> 
>> I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
>> I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.
>> 
>> Any experienced-based suggestions?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Guy D. Huggins
>> 1965 Triumph TR4A
>> CTC 63569LO
>> 
>> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph <>
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 10:32:23 -0400 (EDT)
> From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>, gdhuggins at genfiniti.com,
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> Message-ID: <1545019512.531502.1567693944160 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi, Dave.  Just curious.  What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?  And what do you recommend?  (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)
> 
>> On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> 
>>    I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
>> 
>>    BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs.
>> 
>>    Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>    -----Original Message-----
>>    From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
>>    To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>    Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm
>>    Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
>> 
>>    All,
>> 
>>    After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs.
>>    The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough.
>>    As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.
>> 
>>    I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition.
>>    I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.
>> 
>>    Any experienced-based suggestions?
>> 
>>    Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 
>>    Cheers,
>> 
>>    Guy D. Huggins
>>    1965 Triumph TR4A
>>    CTC 63569LO
>> 
>>    Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>> 
>> 
>>    ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>>    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>>    Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 14:58:02 +0000 (UTC)
> From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
> To: terryrs at comcast.net, gdhuggins at genfiniti.com,
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> Message-ID: <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I did not try changing the fluid that was put in by the rebuilder.? It was probably standard fork oil.? A heavier oil may have made the difference but I never got a roundtuit.
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; gdhuggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:32 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> 
> Hi, Dave.? Just curious.? What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?? And what do you recommend?? (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)
> On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: 
> 
> I agree with Mark and Jerry.? Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
> BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.? The damping was inadequate.? This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.? I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.? Peter up there knows Triumphs. 
> 
> Dave  
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> 
> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
> Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm 
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs 
> 
> All, 
> 
> After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs. 
> The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.? Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough. 
> As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear. 
> 
> I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition. 
> I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber. 
> 
> Any experienced-based suggestions? 
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
> 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> Guy D. Huggins 
> 1965 Triumph TR4A 
> CTC 63569LO 
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2019 10:27:47 -0500
> From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
> Message-ID: <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7 at ca.rr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Could it have been originally delivered n another country? Maybe Canada, or a "self-import" from the UK.
> 
> I found a Coventry-made tractor on Craigslist, some little town in Indiana, even though North American versions were supposed to be built in Dearborn. No idea how it got there, but seems to be the real deal.
> -- Randall
> 
> On 4 September 2019 19:38:23 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo
>> limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles
>> and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo
>> is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph
>> but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing
>> "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the
>> speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed
>> to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some
>> fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without
>> any numbers.
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>>> 
>>>> Stan
>>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>> Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and
>> eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were
>> produced that late.
>>>> 
>>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that
>> late?.
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:20:23 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> Message-ID: <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Type of shock oil will definitely make a difference.  I believe (but could be wrong) that standard shock oil is 20w?  years ago I had a car where the shocks were shot.  I put 90 wt gear oil in just for grins.  Suspension was rock hard until it leaked out again.
> 
> 
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
> Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 9:58 AM
> To: terryrs at comcast.net; gdhuggins at genfiniti.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> 
> 
> 
> I did not try changing the fluid that was put in by the rebuilder.  It was probably standard fork oil.  A heavier oil may have made the difference but I never got a roundtuit.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> >
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >; gdhuggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> >; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:32 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
> 
> Hi, Dave.  Just curious.  What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?  And what do you recommend?  (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)
> 
> On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> > wrote: 
> 
> I agree with Mark and Jerry.  Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.  The damping was inadequate.  This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.  I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.  Peter up there knows Triumphs. 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> > 
> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> > 
> Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm 
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs 
> 
> All, 
> 
> 
> 
> After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs. 
> 
> The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.  Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough. 
> 
> As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear. 
> 
> 
> 
> I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition. 
> 
> I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber. 
> 
> 
> 
> Any experienced-based suggestions? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> 
> 
> Guy D. Huggins 
> 
> 1965 Triumph TR4A 
> 
> CTC 63569LO 
> 
> 
> 
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 203
> *****************************************

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  5 12:54:17 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 14:54:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <F0CD99C9-00F1-4540-B21E-36703FE29FD2@gmail.com>

It?s possible.  I asked the owner for any info on documentation.  Anyone have vin decoding ability 
For tr7 cars 
Jim Henningsen

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 5, 2019, at 11:27 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Could it have been originally delivered n another country? Maybe Canada, or a "self-import" from the UK.
> 
> I found a Coventry-made tractor on Craigslist, some little town in Indiana, even though North American versions were supposed to be built in Dearborn. No idea how it got there, but seems to be the real deal.
> -- Randall
> 
>> On 4 September 2019 19:38:23 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>>> 
>>>> Stan
>>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>>>> > 
>>>> > 
>>>> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>>>> 
>>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Thu Sep  5 13:19:35 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 13:19:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>
 <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <8dd78f70-bc7e-111a-503a-98a8075c0b1d@dfn.com>

On 9/5/2019 11:20 AM, dave wrote:
>
> Type of shock oil will definitely make a difference.? I believe (but 
> could be wrong) that standard shock oil is 20w?? years ago I had a car 
> where the shocks were shot.? I put 90 wt gear oil in just for grins.? 
> Suspension was rock hard until it leaked out again.
>
Yeah, did the same thing in my first TR4.? Turned it into a roller skate.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep  5 14:38:37 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 20:38:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs
In-Reply-To: <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>
References: <EB70A420-BBFF-42FF-8480-42DFB3FC495A@genfiniti.com>
 <383659771.748038.1567420013508@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1545019512.531502.1567693944160@connect.xfinity.com>
 <1629845502.1795123.1567695482220@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001d01d5640e$33b81740$9b2845c0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1226422039.1940210.1567715917829@mail.yahoo.com>

 A friend of mine used to wrench on an MG Midget that was raced on a road course.? He said they filled the shocks with STP. 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 12:47 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs

#yiv2555572415 #yiv2555572415 -- _filtered #yiv2555572415 {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv2555572415 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv2555572415 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv2555572415 #yiv2555572415 p.yiv2555572415MsoNormal, #yiv2555572415 li.yiv2555572415MsoNormal, #yiv2555572415 div.yiv2555572415MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv2555572415 a:link, #yiv2555572415 span.yiv2555572415MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv2555572415 a:visited, #yiv2555572415 span.yiv2555572415MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv2555572415 p.yiv2555572415msonormal0, #yiv2555572415 li.yiv2555572415msonormal0, #yiv2555572415 div.yiv2555572415msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv2555572415 span.yiv2555572415EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv2555572415 .yiv2555572415MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv2555572415 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv2555572415 div.yiv2555572415WordSection1 {} #yiv2555572415 Type of shock oil will definitely make a difference.? I believe (but could be wrong) that standard shock oil is 20w?? years ago I had a car where the shocks were shot.? I put 90 wt gear oil in just for grins.? Suspension was rock hard until it leaked out again. ?From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 9:58 AM
To: terryrs at comcast.net; gdhuggins at genfiniti.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs ?I did not try changing the fluid that was put in by the rebuilder.? It was probably standard fork oil.? A heavier oil may have made the difference but I never got a roundtuit. ?Dave  ? ?-----Original Message-----
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; gdhuggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:32 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road SpringsHi, Dave.? Just curious.? What was the fluid you ran in the rebuilt shocks that didn't dampen as well as you'd like?? And what do you recommend?? (I've been using Harley fork fluid, seems to work fine enough but maybe could be better.)
On September 2, 2019 at 6:26 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: I agree with Mark and Jerry.? Since you have shocks on order put those in first and then make a determination as to whether you need new springs or not. ?BTW, I sent off a set of shocks to Apple for the "Heavy Duty" rebuild and was quite disappointed in the result.? The damping was inadequate.? This was many years ago and they may have sorted this out since then.? I have more recently (like last year) had a pair (may have been the same pair) reworked by World Wide Auto Parts in Madison (http://www.nosimport.com/) with much better results.? Peter up there knows Triumphs.  ?Dave  ? ?-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> 
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sun, Sep 1, 2019 9:45 pm 
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Need Advice on Road Springs All,  ?After almost eight years of driving bliss, with just under 18K miles, it's time to replace what I suspect are the original road springs. The car has gotten way too bouncy, especially in the rear.? Take a curve on a rough road, and it rear steers something awful. losing its contact with the road, as if the spring is not forcing the wheel back down quickly enough. As far as shocks go, I?ve got Spax adjustable up front, and just ordered some heavy duty Armstrongs from Apple Hydraulics for the rear.  ?I?ve gotten into some research, and everything seems to be pointing toward three grades of stiffness; original, uprated and competition. I am leaning toward the ?uprated? variety to stiffen the ride, but I want to keep stock height to not effect wheel camber.  ?Any experienced-based suggestions?  ?Thanks in advance.  ? ?Cheers,  ?Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO  ?Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph  ? ?** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

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From HDRider570 at att.net  Thu Sep  5 14:43:14 2019
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 13:43:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question (Jim Henningsen)
Message-ID: <4a3d4adb-20b0-c355-0465-eda5b2ec468b@att.net>

My low mileage 1981 TR7 purchased from the original family came with a 
85 MPH speedo.  I changed it out for a 140 with very similar mileage. 
It is a direct swap, no other changes needed.

Dash cluster come on E-Bay fairly regularly and I think you can still 
buy NOS 140 speedo's from Rimmer Brothers in the UK.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Sep  5 16:10:26 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 15:10:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>

I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never
in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a
technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run
into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.


Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Sep  5 16:17:14 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 17:17:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>

Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.  
Bill

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.


Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Sep  5 16:32:04 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 18:32:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
Message-ID: <868178527.192152.1567722725330@connect.xfinity.com>

Just for the complete review, I'm sure these are fine head bolts.  Just my opinion, though, the key to successful head installation is a good head gasket and, more importantly, making sure the figure 8 gaskets are seated correctly using pre-head installation compression via torquing down the sleeves to achieve the perfect (ISTR) .003 proud across all sides.  Ask me how I know!


Terry Smith, TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

> On September 5, 2019 at 6:17 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
>     Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.  
>     Bill
> 
>     Sent from my IBM 8088
> 
>     On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy < triumphstag at gmail.com mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com > wrote:
> 
>     I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.
> 
> 
>     Sujit
> 
>     --
>     Sujit Roy
>     Cupertino, California
> 
>     https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 


 
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  5 17:09:25 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 19:09:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>

Just found out it was bought new in Canada.   I dont have a TR7 factory parts manual.  Did Canadian market tr7s cone with a 140 speedo or would they have been kilometers??  
Any help greatly appreciated 
Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2019, at 11:27 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Could it have been originally delivered n another country? Maybe Canada, or a "self-import" from the UK.
> 
> I found a Coventry-made tractor on Craigslist, some little town in Indiana, even though North American versions were supposed to be built in Dearborn. No idea how it got there, but seems to be the real deal.
> -- Randall
> 
>> On 4 September 2019 19:38:23 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>>> 
>>>> Stan
>>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>>>> > 
>>>> > 
>>>> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>>>> 
>>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Sep  5 17:45:43 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 18:45:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <868178527.192152.1567722725330@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <868178527.192152.1567722725330@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <4A1481D7-5F81-47E8-9ACA-F1DFDBD02433@flash.net>

I first went to ARP studs after a stock one snapped with enough force, 105ftlbs, to create at sizable dimple/bump in the middle of my bonnet.  
Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:32 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

Just for the complete review, I'm sure these are fine head bolts.  Just my opinion, though, the key to successful head installation is a good head gasket and, more importantly, making sure the figure 8 gaskets are seated correctly using pre-head installation compression via torquing down the sleeves to achieve the perfect (ISTR) 003 proud across all sides.  Ask me how I know!



Terry Smith, TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

> On September 5, 2019 at 6:17 PM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote: 
> 
> Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.  
> Bill 
> 
> Sent from my IBM 8088
> 
> On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy < triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote: 
> 
> I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.
> 
> 
> Sujit 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy 
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net 

 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Sep  5 19:35:46 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2019 20:35:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <4A1481D7-5F81-47E8-9ACA-F1DFDBD02433@flash.net>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <868178527.192152.1567722725330@connect.xfinity.com>
 <4A1481D7-5F81-47E8-9ACA-F1DFDBD02433@flash.net>
Message-ID: <002c01d56453$6875c730$39615590$@ranteer.com>

+1 on ARP head studs.  The nicest thing about them (and probably not unique to them) is the allen wrench top so you can screw them in nicely without messing them up

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 6:46 PM
To: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts

 

I first went to ARP studs after a stock one snapped with enough force, 105ftlbs, to create at sizable dimple/bump in the middle of my bonnet.  

Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088


On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:32 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> > wrote:

Just for the complete review, I'm sure these are fine head bolts.  Just my opinion, though, the key to successful head installation is a good head gasket and, more importantly, making sure the figure 8 gaskets are seated correctly using pre-head installation compression via torquing down the sleeves to achieve the perfect (ISTR) 003 proud across all sides.  Ask me how I know!

 

Terry Smith, TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

On September 5, 2019 at 6:17 PM "Wbeech at flash.net <mailto:Wbeech at flash.net> " <wbeech at flash.net <mailto:wbeech at flash.net> > wrote: 

Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.  

Bill 

Sent from my IBM 8088


On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy < triumphstag at gmail.com <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com> > wrote: 

I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.

 

 

Sujit 


 

-- 

Sujit Roy 
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive 

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** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Fri Sep  6 03:12:40 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 10:12:40 +0100
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
 <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>

What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply to US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road, cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before the change became effective.

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 6 Sep 2019, at 00:09, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Just found out it was bought new in Canada.   I dont have a TR7 factory parts manual.  Did Canadian market tr7s cone with a 140 speedo or would they have been kilometers??  
> Any help greatly appreciated 
> Jim Henningsen 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 5, 2019, at 11:27 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Could it have been originally delivered n another country? Maybe Canada, or a "self-import" from the UK.
>> 
>> I found a Coventry-made tractor on Craigslist, some little town in Indiana, even though North American versions were supposed to be built in Dearborn. No idea how it got there, but seems to be the real deal.
>> -- Randall
>> 
>>> On 4 September 2019 19:38:23 GMT-05:00, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Thanks all for the feedback.  I was pretty sure 85 was the max speedo limit on those.  The seller of an 81 tr7 is claiming 6000 orig miles and it looks like it judging by the one year only velour but the speedo is a 140 so I question the validity despite the condition. 
>>> Jim
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:56 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Aha!. I recall with my old Morris 1000 the speedo topped out at 80mph but there was no stop for the speedo needle so the old joke was doing "half a tank" downhill as the fuel gauge was inset at the bottom of the speedo gauge. Half a tank would be around 100mph.
>>>> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:46:11 PM
>>>> To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> The display was limited.  Meaning 85 was the highest number allowed to display.  The regulation also required that 55 be called out in some fashion.  Note that some makers put tick marks beyond 85, just without any numbers.
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:41 PM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> What method was used to limit the TR7 speed to 85mph ?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Stan
>>>>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 4, 2019 7:27:31 PM
>>>>> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> > On Sep 4, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:
>>>>> > 
>>>>> > 
>>>>> > By the way, the regulation was enacted on September 1, 1979, and eliminated on October 22, 1981.  I believe any US market 81 cars were produced that late.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I meant to say ?I doubt any US market 81 cars were produced that late?.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>>> 
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
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>> 
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> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Sep  6 04:58:14 2019
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 06:58:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>

I did not re-torque my ARP?s after a TR4A rebuild and 2 years later blew a head gasket with no evidence of burn thru. Studs were loose and nuts came off much to easily. My fault as I always intended to do a re-torque but didn?t. 

From: Wbeech at flash.net 
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 6:17 PM
To: Sujit Roy 
Cc: Triumphs 
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts

Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.   
Bill


Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:


I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say. 


Sujit


-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Sep  6 08:23:01 2019
From: tony at tonydrews.com (tony at tonydrews.com)
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2019 10:23:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <20190906102301.Horde.nmfHifnQ7CmpnNGFejm9rkl@tonydrews.com>

If the head gasket is compressible, you need to retorque.  It?s not  
that the studs stretch, it?s that the head gasket compresses.

Tony Drews

Quoting Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>:

> I did not re-torque my ARP?s after a TR4A rebuild and 2 years later  
> blew a head gasket with no evidence of burn thru. Studs were loose  
> and nuts came off much to easily. My fault as I always intended to  
> do a re-torque but didn?t.
>
> From: Wbeech at flash.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 6:17 PM
> To: Sujit Roy
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
>
> Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never  
> heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat  
> cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.
> Bill
>
>
> Sent from my IBM 8088
>
> On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but  
> never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall  
> speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to  
> re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what  
> other's have to say.
>
>
> Sujit
>
>
> --
>
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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From gdhuggins at genfiniti.com  Fri Sep  6 08:34:48 2019
From: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 09:34:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
Message-ID: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>

All,

Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever shocks to arrive..

My engine will idle under the following conditions:
Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate, therefore not opening the throttle plate.  (In theory, they are fully closed.)
Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO fuel going into the carbs.)
Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.

In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine running?
Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?

Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
If so, should I do anything?  If so, what?  (other than maybe looking to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)


Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
817.454.6415




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From stan at redtr6.com  Fri Sep  6 08:36:25 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 14:36:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

When re-torquing ARP head studs, do you need to back off the nut and lube the nut and washer before you re-tighten ?.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, September 6, 2019 6:58 AM
To: Wbeech at flash.net; Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts

I did not re-torque my ARP?s after a TR4A rebuild and 2 years later blew a head gasket with no evidence of burn thru. Studs were loose and nuts came off much to easily. My fault as I always intended to do a re-torque but didn?t.

From: Wbeech at flash.net<mailto:Wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 6:17 PM
To: Sujit Roy
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts

Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.
Bill
Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com<mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.


Sujit

--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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________________________________
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Sep  6 09:03:34 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 09:03:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
 <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <a6039250-4302-d62a-6ff2-e793d0630bb6@bradakis.com>

As old and decrepit as I'm feeling this morning, maybe I'll order some 
AARP head studs for Killer's motor.

mjb.



From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Sep  6 09:10:26 2019
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 11:10:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
In-Reply-To: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
References: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <7a600ee0-2248-a35d-16eb-1527eebfb1cd@adelphia.net>

Guy,

I run HS6s on my TR4. They came off a 67 4A. I have zero trouble with 
them. Car idles fine and throttle response is similar to my 3, which has 
H6s and my 6 which has the Hitachi HS6 carbs. I think you may have a 
vacuum leak somewhere, manifold most likely or maybe a problem with the 
float valve? What fuel pump do you use? I have the Facet model on all 3 
running about 2PSI at the regulator.

But even with the mixture nut all the way up, there will still be fuel 
to the throttle body that is if you have the needle installed on the 
piston correctly.

Bob

On 9/6/19 10:34 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
>
> Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever 
> shocks to arrive..
>
> My engine will idle under the following conditions:
>
>   * Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate,
>     therefore not opening the throttle plate. ?(In theory, they are
>     fully closed.)
>   * Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO
>     fuel going into the carbs.)
>   * Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making
>     sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
>
> For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super 
> throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.
>
> In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine running?
> Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?
>
> Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
> If so, should I do anything? ?If so, what? ?(other than maybe looking 
> to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)
>
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
> 817.454.6415
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep  6 09:39:31 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2019 10:39:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
In-Reply-To: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
References: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <F964937A-C03E-427C-BBEE-9B6602E0BCAA@ca.rr.com>

Seems your rebuild isn't as perfect as you think. They rarely are.

But as long as you can achieve a reasonable adjustment, I don't see a reason to worry about it. Carbs are never perfect anyway.

-- Randall

On 6 September 2019 09:34:48 GMT-05:00, "G.D. Huggins" <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> wrote:
>All,
>
>Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever
>shocks to arrive..
>
>My engine will idle under the following conditions:
>Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate,
>therefore not opening the throttle plate.  (In theory, they are fully
>closed.)
>Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO fuel
>going into the carbs.)
>Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making sure
>jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
>For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super
>throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.
>
>In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine
>running?
>Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?
>
>Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
>If so, should I do anything?  If so, what?  (other than maybe looking
>to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)
>
>
>Kind Regards,
>
>Guy D. Huggins
>gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
>817.454.6415
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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep  6 09:51:31 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 10:51:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
 <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <5F3D62CA-0C4F-4B5F-9C11-7138820F4A68@flash.net>

I back off just enough to move the nut, they sometimes stick, then on to the determined setting.  I don?t re-lube, others may. 
Bill B

On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:36 AM, Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:

When re-torquing ARP head studs, do you need to back off the nut and lube the nut and washer before you re-tighten ?.
 
Stan
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, September 6, 2019 6:58 AM
To: Wbeech at flash.net; Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
 
I did not re-torque my ARP?s after a TR4A rebuild and 2 years later blew a head gasket with no evidence of burn thru. Studs were loose and nuts came off much to easily. My fault as I always intended to do a re-torque but didn?t.
 
From: Wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 6:17 PM
To: Sujit Roy
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
 
Have used APR on my last 3 TR3 rebuilds, never a problem.  Never heard anything about not having to re-torque.   I do after 2-3 heat cycles then again at 200 mile with the first oil change.  
Bill

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 5, 2019, at 5:10 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.
 
 
Sujit
 
--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Sep  6 10:58:10 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 16:58:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
References: <1192631615.2238030.1567789090872.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1192631615.2238030.1567789090872@mail.yahoo.com>

 Well, Dr. Watson, eliminate the impossible and what is left, however improbable, is the truth.
1) An engine will not run without the proper fuel/air ratio.2) the only source for the proper ratio of fuel/air is the carburettor jet3) The engine continues to run
ergo: the throttle is not fully closed.? 

Actually, the throttle plates do not fully close off since there is no point if you want the engine to at least idle.? The throttle plate is actually slightly undersized to allow it to freely rotate in the carburettor throat without binding.? Also, the plates must be properly centered on the shaft.? If they are not the top or bottom will hit the throat before the other end does and there will be a gap even at "in theory" fully closed.
If you hold a carburettor up to the light with the throttle fully closed you will see light leaking past the plate, mostly at the sides near the shaft.? If you see a lot more light at the top or bottom the plate is not properly centered.
But, if you get a decent idle, go with it as is.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2019 9:35 am
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd

All,
Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever shocks to arrive..
My engine will idle under the following conditions:   
   - Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate, therefore not opening the throttle plate. ?(In theory, they are fully closed.)
   - Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO fuel going into the carbs.)
   - Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.
In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine running?Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?
Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?If so, should I do anything? ?If so, what? ?(other than maybe looking to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)

Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
817.454.6415

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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  6 12:24:41 2019
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (Bill Brewer)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 11:24:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Was APR head bolts, now Morgan Story
Message-ID: <00af01d564e0$5a7b4e60$0f71eb20$@yahoo.com>

     So I was rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for an early Morgan +4. It uses all TR3 internals, but has a different head and manifolds. The head studs are 7/16ths diameter instead of the TR3?s ?? studs. A SV head torques on to 55 Ft/pounds instead of the TR3?s 105 ft/pds. If you torque a TR3 head on to a Standard Vanguard block and torque it to 105 ft/pds then the block will crack above the drain spigot. I have two cracked Standard Vanguard blocks that came with my cars. One I had stitched together and am running it in a car now.

     So I called ARP and told them I needed head studs for a rare car. The guy on the phone said ?Go ahead and hit me, I?ve heard of just about any car?. I told him a needed head studs for a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan +4. I could hear crickets on the other end of the phone. The guy told me that he had never heard of any of those words and wanted to patch me through to custom fabrication (and greater expense). I told him ?Hold on, I need a 7/16th stud 10 and a half inches long, coarse on one end and fine on the other?. He said that that was a head stud for a 302 Ford. It cost me $76 including shipping. They worked great in my car.

 

     -Bill Brewer 

     Tehachapi, CA

 

From: Sujit Roy [mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2019 3:10 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts

 

I used ARP head bolts on my last Stag. I torqued down the head, but never in the last 5 or so years did I re-torque the heads. I recall speaking to a technician over at APR and he said no need to re-torque  I have not run into an issue. But am wondering what other's have to say.

 

 

Sujit


 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Fri Sep  6 13:01:23 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:01:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
In-Reply-To: <7a600ee0-2248-a35d-16eb-1527eebfb1cd@adelphia.net>
References: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
 <7a600ee0-2248-a35d-16eb-1527eebfb1cd@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <f83a86b1-1273-5dba-17b1-f2f3c6a7c9ca@verizon.net>

seconded (vac leak)

also manually (by hand) check and push up on the jet tubes 
underneath..not uncommon to stick open a bit


ptegler

On 9/6/2019 11:10 AM, Bob wrote:
>
> Guy,
>
> I run HS6s on my TR4. They came off a 67 4A. I have zero trouble with 
> them. Car idles fine and throttle response is similar to my 3, which 
> has H6s and my 6 which has the Hitachi HS6 carbs. I think you may have 
> a vacuum leak somewhere, manifold most likely or maybe a problem with 
> the float valve? What fuel pump do you use? I have the Facet model on 
> all 3 running about 2PSI at the regulator.
>
> But even with the mixture nut all the way up, there will still be fuel 
> to the throttle body that is if you have the needle installed on the 
> piston correctly.
>
> Bob
>
> On 9/6/19 10:34 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote:
>> All,
>>
>> Here???s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever 
>> shocks to arrive..
>>
>> My engine will idle under the following conditions:
>>
>>   * Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate,
>>     therefore not opening the throttle plate. ??(In theory, they are
>>     fully closed.)
>>   * Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO
>>     fuel going into the carbs.)
>>   * Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making
>>     sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
>>
>> For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with 
>> super throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.
>>
>> In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine 
>> running?
>> Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?
>>
>> Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
>> If so, should I do anything? ??If so, what? ??(other than maybe looking 
>> to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)
>>
>>
>> Kind Regards,
>>
>> Guy D. Huggins
>> gdhuggins at genfiniti.com <mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
>> 817.454.6415
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>>
>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Fri Sep  6 13:06:07 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:06:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
 <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
 <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <022601d564e6$23a5ecf0$6af1c6d0$@bell.net>

Canada switched to metric in 1970 under Pierre Trudeau (our current Prime Minister?s father). In 1971, the government created a ?Metric Commission? to oversee the process.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

John asked:

 

What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply to US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road, cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before the change became effective.

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Sep  6 13:29:32 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:29:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <022601d564e6$23a5ecf0$6af1c6d0$@bell.net>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
 <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
 <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <022601d564e6$23a5ecf0$6af1c6d0$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <48C7D840-619C-4E89-99F4-1D1D80E6E110@gmail.com>

So Canadian cars should have a KPH speedo then??  Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 6, 2019, at 3:06 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> Canada switched to metric in 1970 under Pierre Trudeau (our current Prime Minister?s father). In 1971, the government created a ?Metric Commission? to oversee the process.
>  
>  
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart at bell.net
>  
>  
>  
> John asked:
>  
> What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply to US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road, cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before the change became effective.
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Fri Sep  6 13:32:33 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 20:32:33 +0100
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <48C7D840-619C-4E89-99F4-1D1D80E6E110@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
 <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
 <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <022601d564e6$23a5ecf0$6af1c6d0$@bell.net>
 <48C7D840-619C-4E89-99F4-1D1D80E6E110@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47E6BA06-13AB-441B-8545-B410674ABE03@Ukpips.org.uk>

I would think that?s a reasonable assumption to make.

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 6 Sep 2019, at 20:29, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> So Canadian cars should have a KPH speedo then??  Jim Henningsen 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2019, at 3:06 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Canada switched to metric in 1970 under Pierre Trudeau (our current Prime Minister?s father). In 1971, the government created a ?Metric Commission? to oversee the process.
>>  
>>  
>> Keith Stewart
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> John asked:
>>  
>> What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply to US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road, cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before the change became effective.
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From dave at mdmackay.ca  Fri Sep  6 13:48:05 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:48:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
Message-ID: <a0a7adb2caf3434a24abb6cd928d308d@mail.gmail.com>

 Re: [TR] 81 TR7 question

------------------------------

On 6 Sep 2019 John Macartney *John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk*
<John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk> asked:

>What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for
changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car
at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply >to
US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the
previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road,
cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before >the
change became effective.

In 1972, all provinces in Canada agreed to make all road signs metric by
1977. The changeover was completed in September 1977.

Manufacturers started providing metric speedometers (with imperial units
also marked)/odometers, generally around 1975, although the timing varied
by manufacturer. By 1978, all new cars sold in Canada (except old stick) should
have been equipped with metric speedometers/odometers.

Regards,

Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L

Near Toronto, Canada
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Fri Sep  6 13:51:55 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:51:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] 81 TR7 question
In-Reply-To: <48C7D840-619C-4E89-99F4-1D1D80E6E110@gmail.com>
References: <000001d56376$111160e0$333422a0$@gmail.com>
 <13f8b80d-555b-c486-3f2d-0064ea4f6a14@rmi.net>
 <959A42D3-B9B8-4AC9-B38F-5DE290AB4E5D@mac.com>
 <E8AA088C-06FB-4FEC-B5BD-073C61C051E1@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66924FD10D41BC2EB64A9407FEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <6B657813-473D-430D-97AB-D393F48498A7@mac.com>
 <BN8PR05MB66923A58E06D43B96C0D033EFEB80@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <E6086AC4-B5D1-40AD-A798-A06F2F37E379@gmail.com>
 <E7FA1630-9880-4DCA-A5FC-A8ABB43053F7@ca.rr.com>
 <7F7C2BD1-6CAA-4021-9F9D-73B5016FE769@gmail.com>
 <28AE50F0-BD15-49EF-803A-49302F115D36@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <022601d564e6$23a5ecf0$6af1c6d0$@bell.net>
 <48C7D840-619C-4E89-99F4-1D1D80E6E110@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02f301d564ec$89ec6c90$9dc545b0$@bell.net>

Can?t say as far as the TR8, as I have never owned one. Chris?s 75 TR6 has basically a MPH Speedo although there are smaller markings for KPH. Maybe that was enough to meet the import requirements.



The odometer measures in miles. I believe the car was a Canadian import and the current odometer readings are consistent with what little I know about the history of her car.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

James asked:

 

So Canadian cars should have a KPH speedo then??  Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 6, 2019, at 3:06 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

Canada switched to metric in 1970 under Pierre Trudeau (our current Prime Minister?s father). In 1971, the government created a ?Metric Commission? to oversee the process.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

John asked:

 

What year did Canada switch from miles to Kilometres? Normal practice for changing legislation was for the new requirement to be built in to the car at least one calendar year in advance. This did not necessarily apply to US Federal specs because they often were not confirmed until June of the previous model year. That said, when Sweden changed its rule of the road, cars with LH steer were being shipped at least three years before the change became effective.

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Sep  6 15:11:42 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 17:11:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
In-Reply-To: <F964937A-C03E-427C-BBEE-9B6602E0BCAA@ca.rr.com>
References: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
 <F964937A-C03E-427C-BBEE-9B6602E0BCAA@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1691015329.334468.1567804303038@connect.xfinity.com>

FWIW, I fought an H6 carb issue all spring too.  Randall is right (huh, go figger).  I had the same thing, a professional rebuild.  In the end, I wound up buying a carb rebuild kit and following a YouTube video.  Eazy Peezy (peasy?  peasey?)


Happily the throttle shafts were reamed correctly, so in the end, after my rebuild, the carbs run perfectly at very nearly the initial 12 flat setting after testing and adjusting for mixture.  


I don't know about your preference, but if my carbs are on a deep end of the Bell Curve, with little adjustment left, my choice would be at a minimum to pull them apart to check if the float valve or needles are sticking. 


Good luck!


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

> On September 6, 2019 at 11:39 AM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>     Seems your rebuild isn't as perfect as you think. They rarely are.
> 
>     But as long as you can achieve a reasonable adjustment, I don't see a reason to worry about it. Carbs are never perfect anyway.
> 
>     -- Randall
> 
>     On 6 September 2019 09:34:48 GMT-05:00, "G.D. Huggins" <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> wrote:
> 
>         > > All,
> > 
> >         Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever shocks to arrive..
> > 
> >         My engine will idle under the following conditions:
> >             * Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate, therefore not opening the throttle plate.  (In theory, they are fully closed.)
> >             * Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO fuel going into the carbs.)
> >             * Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
> >         For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.
> > 
> >         In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine running?
> >         Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?
> > 
> >         Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
> >         If so, should I do anything?  If so, what?  (other than maybe looking to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)
> > 
> > 
> >         Kind Regards,
> > 
> >         Guy D. Huggins
> >         gdhuggins at genfiniti.com mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
> >         817.454.6415
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >     > 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Sep  6 15:23:08 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 15:23:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] anyone have experience using APR head bolts
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANLCLaGaOk6eVtosGi4yhZCaJDE4ZPT93BP86t+v8uNxGHmM0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <A9554E86-3745-4E8D-846C-53D69A0A429A@flash.net>
 <CD7753F3C0E84DCFA53E693CD56ABBFC@VlackTK121647>
 <BN8PR05MB6692B98A66565B96E7F909D7FEBA0@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <e9cb5f43-d2b9-6d90-1f5e-205b07a3e1ce@bradakis.com>

When retorquing head studs of any type, one should back off the nut 
first, making sure it is loose.? Otherwise you may get erroneous readings.

And for those of you not living in the United States, AARP = American 
Association of Retired People.

mjb.



From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep  6 15:26:09 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 16:26:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - This Seems Odd
In-Reply-To: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
References: <5B708EC1-BB2D-4EFD-9169-C413AD8FF550@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <12428E2C-43CF-4110-B1D8-BA3A742FA521@flash.net>

Lots of variables to consider:
-Butterflies may not be fully closing, lift the piston and shine a light in, should be tight and even all around.  I presume you have solid butterflies?
-positions on the stop levers May be a tad off, keeping the butterflies open 
-Jet needle may be set in too high, you could drop them 1/16? and see what happens.  
-A friend of mine was given the advice to run the jet barrel adjusting nut all the way up, then loosen the jet needle just a little so it will slide with a little pressure, then return the piston to the body and let the needle bottom out in the jet barrel.  This should bring you to zero, tighten the needle in its new position and open the adjusting nut two turns to begin.   Has anyone else tried this method?  I haven?t but it seems to make sense. 

Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:34 AM, G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com> wrote:

All,

Here?s another thing to ponder whilst I wait for my rebuilt lever shocks to arrive..

My engine will idle under the following conditions:
Idle screws are backed off all the way, not touching the plate, therefore not opening the throttle plate.  (In theory, they are fully closed.)
Mixtures nuts all the way lean. (In theory, there should be ZERO fuel going into the carbs.)
Both the throttle and choke are loosened from the linkage, making sure jets are all the way up, and throttles are not sticking
For the record, these are professionally rebuilt HS6 carbs, with super throttle shaft bushing, perfectly centered jets, etc.

In what is ostensibly a ZERO fuel/air mixture, how is this engine running?
Do these engines just have a magic power to idle when starved?

Has anyone else witnessed this on their own cars?
If so, should I do anything?  If so, what?  (other than maybe looking to make sure the needles/jets are matched correctly)


Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
817.454.6415




** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Fri Sep  6 15:28:35 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 17:28:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Head Removal-Block and Head Offer
Message-ID: <66981484-81FE-45D4-BC63-29FCAD5231EE@comcast.net>

	I rebuilt my ?72 TR6 about 5 years ago.  I did about What Jomac recommends.  I increased the compression to about 9.25, installed a Goodparts GP 2 cam and put in .20 over pistons.  With great help form Bob Lang, Jay Welch and a little advice from Richard Good I got an excellent result.  The engine runs strong, idles well and runs at a consistent normal temperature. I did add a carburetor heat shield to get an consistent idle on hot days or when coming off the highway to slow traffic. I?m running the stock ZS carbs. 
	Jay gave me a block including the head.  I believe that both are usable and the internals were in good condition.. I did use the crank shaft  in the rebuild. What did puzzle me, try as I might I could not break loose the head from the block. I tried wedging in a stiff wide blade paint scraper which I was able to work between the head and the block, but since I didn?t need the block or head I gave up as I didn?t want to damage either one by gouging them.  I can only guess that the last person to do the head used some kind of gasket sealer that has become dried and very adhesive. 
	If any one on the list wishes to have the block/head please let me know, of course no charge, but you must pick up.  The machine shop I used assured me that they could remove the head.
	
	Best,
	Bob
	?72 TR6

From rrochlin at comcast.net  Fri Sep  6 17:47:06 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 19:47:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Robert
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPs7phCaEj8zP1YLmuWCJC0Hu56Ymf1skCjYyRcYaWQ00A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPs7phCaEj8zP1YLmuWCJC0Hu56Ymf1skCjYyRcYaWQ00A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <35074EDC-B082-4A07-8672-7E0AA846D045@comcast.net>

Hi Paul,
	I used a highly recommended automotive machine shop, J&M Machine in Southborough MA.  All I had to do was tell them what I wanted done and they did the calculations and executed the machining. They did the block, rods, pistons, bearings, decked the block  and valves.  They were not cheap, but having a new engine go south is a lot more expensive.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Sep 6, 2019, at 7:03 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>  I am new to the TR three however, I need to do a head job on my TR three that is not running. I wonder if you happen to know where I might find recommendations for the head  so that I  Can make the machine shop aware of alterations for current conditions in fact I don?t know even what to ask the list. 
> 
> Thanks Paul Dorsey Athens Georgia


From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Sep  8 08:03:41 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 09:03:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Update, and OT report
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_4SoFJUBU=ruqJzGo2o8xhaw152z57N9dMUTcOyfkTCjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dxFVBLSb0OrF95MmYUVevFvViQzvSUBrNb4-HdYykCw8g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAONC1_4SoFJUBU=ruqJzGo2o8xhaw152z57N9dMUTcOyfkTCjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaBSi0jp3zZ=3eJ+aF8gMP7JTg7yrcCKMktPau2FkQ6GQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have read many times about how a battery can explode, but this is the
first account I have heard of it actually happening.  Scary stuff, didn't
know the pop could be so big it would damage your eardrums.  Good luck with
the recovery and the V12 and Biturbo.  Sounds like plenty of stuff to
keep you busy.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Sun, Sep 8, 2019, 7:14 AM Larry Griffin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Wow, that is so scary Rick! Glad you didn't get any acid burns due to your
> quick actions. Hopefully your hearing will continue to improve.
>
> Take care,
> Larry
> 71 TR6, Raleigh
>
> On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 10:10 PM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <
> 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello Friends,
>>    A little over a week ago the battery in my LBC exploded, showering me
>> with acid and leaving me deafened.  Cutting to the chase: I received no
>> acid burns, thanks to stripping down and dousing myself with water,
>> followed by a proper shower a few minutes later.
>>    Partial hearing returned after 10-15 minutes but is still limited and
>> accompanied by a buzzing ring in one ear. I am under a doctor's care and
>> will know more as my ears heal.
>>    The car has been cleaned, decontaminated, and repainted where
>> necessary. A new battery is now installed but not yet connected. I want to
>> clean the connectors again before they go on.
>>    My '85 Maserati Biturbo is at the independent mechanic where the
>> turbos are being cleaned, oil hoses replaced, and a new fuel pump and
>> filter will go in.
>>    Today the E-Type got new connectors on all the V12's harness wires.
>> And tomorrow, the car will get new thermostats and coolant.
>>    Testing revealed that coolant exiting the engine's left bank was 180?F
>> while that exiting the right bank was 160?F. The implication is that
>> sometime along the car's history, one of the thermostats was replaced with
>> a wrong value unit. New 160? hot climate thermostats go in tomorrow, both
>> banks, followed by refilling with 50:50 antifreeze concentrate, and
>> distilled water.
>>    Yea, more information than anyone needs...and mostly off topic.
>>
>> Rick, in Houston
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/grglmn at gmail.com
>
>
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019, 7:14 AM Larry Griffin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Wow, that is so scary Rick! Glad you didn't get any acid burns due to your
> quick actions. Hopefully your hearing will continue to improve.
>
> Take care,
> Larry
> 71 TR6, Raleigh
>
> On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 10:10 PM Richard Lindsay via 6pack <
> 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello Friends,
>>    A little over a week ago the battery in my LBC exploded, showering me
>> with acid and leaving me deafened.  Cutting to the chase: I received no
>> acid burns, thanks to stripping down and dousing myself with water,
>> followed by a proper shower a few minutes later.
>>    Partial hearing returned after 10-15 minutes but is still limited and
>> accompanied by a buzzing ring in one ear. I am under a doctor's care and
>> will know more as my ears heal.
>>    The car has been cleaned, decontaminated, and repainted where
>> necessary. A new battery is now installed but not yet connected. I want to
>> clean the connectors again before they go on.
>>    My '85 Maserati Biturbo is at the independent mechanic where the
>> turbos are being cleaned, oil hoses replaced, and a new fuel pump and
>> filter will go in.
>>    Today the E-Type got new connectors on all the V12's harness wires.
>> And tomorrow, the car will get new thermostats and coolant.
>>    Testing revealed that coolant exiting the engine's left bank was 180?F
>> while that exiting the right bank was 160?F. The implication is that
>> sometime along the car's history, one of the thermostats was replaced with
>> a wrong value unit. New 160? hot climate thermostats go in tomorrow, both
>> banks, followed by refilling with 50:50 antifreeze concentrate, and
>> distilled water.
>>    Yea, more information than anyone needs...and mostly off topic.
>>
>> Rick, in Houston
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/grglmn at gmail.com
>
>
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  8 13:52:43 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 15:52:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off with my head
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPspyZP-UcLXXjHiAYrQ5fN9fsnvANCJC_5xGWs-uGSd8Q@mail.gmail.com>

I can't feel all of the studs/bolts which hold the TR3A manifolds up to the
head.  I think the workshop manual says there are 8; but I can only see 6.
Where are the other 2- do I need to remove the starter?

Alternatively, I guess I could remove the intake manifold and take loose
the two flange bolts which holds the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe.
But my guess is that this is a bad work around.

Paul
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  8 14:28:03 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 16:28:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] triumph-bounces
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>

Every time I write a letter to this list, triumph-bounces sends me an
acknowledgement saying that it was successfully received by the Triumphs
mailing list.  How can I stop this or should I just be happy?
 Paul Dorsey
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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep  8 14:49:41 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 15:49:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Off with my head
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPspyZP-UcLXXjHiAYrQ5fN9fsnvANCJC_5xGWs-uGSd8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPspyZP-UcLXXjHiAYrQ5fN9fsnvANCJC_5xGWs-uGSd8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01d56686$f0d79a10$d286ce30$@flash.net>

Don?t worry with the starter, it can stay where it is.  

 

Up behind the carburettors, where you cannot see you can feel the two bolts your looking for, you must remove all eight to pull the manifolds away from the head.

 

Bill

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 2:53 PM
To: Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Off with my head

 

I can't feel all of the studs/bolts which hold the TR3A manifolds up to the head.  I think the workshop manual says there are 8; but I can only see 6.  Where are the other 2- do I need to remove the starter?

 

Alternatively, I guess I could remove the intake manifold and take loose the two flange bolts which holds the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe.  But my guess is that this is a bad work around.

 

Paul

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep  8 14:49:41 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 15:49:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] triumph-bounces
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000701d56686$f08de6e0$d1a9b4a0$@flash.net>

It?s an automatic from Mark, because he loves us!

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 3:28 PM
To: Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] triumph-bounces

 

Every time I write a letter to this list, triumph-bounces sends me an acknowledgement saying that it was successfully received by the Triumphs mailing list.  How can I stop this or should I just be happy?

 Paul Dorsey

 

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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep  8 15:36:43 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 17:36:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] triumph-bounces
In-Reply-To: <000701d56686$f08de6e0$d1a9b4a0$@flash.net>
References: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <000701d56686$f08de6e0$d1a9b4a0$@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPvqeP897DfwPdqgiR3KXgPtWGKRvPVUmtpD4-2bpXwkYg@mail.gmail.com>

Haha, thanks!

On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 4:49 PM wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> It?s an automatic from Mark, because he loves us!
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Paul
> Dorsey
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 8, 2019 3:28 PM
> *To:* Triumph list Team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] triumph-bounces
>
>
>
> Every time I write a letter to this list, triumph-bounces sends me an
> acknowledgement saying that it was successfully received by the Triumphs
> mailing list.  How can I stop this or should I just be happy?
>
>  Paul Dorsey
>
>
>
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From controls at freelanceconsulting.net  Tue Sep  3 16:26:38 2019
From: controls at freelanceconsulting.net (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 16:26:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <20190903181016.4223FA0EE9@autox.team.net>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <20190903181016.4223FA0EE9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>

Stag and TR7 heads are no longer an issue. 

 

There are cylinder head tools available that lift off even the most corroded heads off a Stag or TR7 engine in 30 minutes or less with no damage, actually taking more time to install and remove the tool than it takes to  lifting the head.  That is the first and last tool to use, all other methods are rendered obsolete and typically damage something else in the process.

Use of the tool is free excepting you pay round trip shipping of the tool and replace anything you lose or break on the tool.

Cheers!

 

Glenn Merrell 

aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook)

Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!?

 

 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2019 12:10 PM
To: Paul Dorsey; Triumph list Team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy

 

The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off any other way.  In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.  But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained either).

 

I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to the ?rope trick?.  Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.

 

- Randall

 

From: Paul Dorsey <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
To: Me <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com> ; Triumph list Team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy

 

Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?

 

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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep  8 15:57:28 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 15:57:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] triumph-bounces
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPs9p7t=mQaEkyKZirdQ1kGwoSqKt0djyi1Zgs+p-EWwhQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d91ae2ae-81dc-703e-65ef-0ea77bcefc7f@bradakis.com>

On 9/8/19 2:28 PM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> Every time I write a letter to this list,?triumph-bounces sends me an 
> acknowledgement saying that it was successfully received by the 
> Triumphs mailing list.? How can I stop this or should I just be happy?


Use the Unsubscribe/Manage link at the bottom of every message to change 
your list settings, like whether or not you get an acknowledgment message.

mjb.



From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Sep  8 16:03:56 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 18:03:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <20190903181016.4223FA0EE9@autox.team.net>
 <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>
Message-ID: <1946920993.575919.1567980236365@connect.xfinity.com>

Haven't heard it mentioned, so question.  When using the "rope trick," would it be wise to remove the pedestal for the rocker arms first so's to avoid damaging valves?


Terry




On September 3, 2019 at 6:26 PM "Glenn A. Merrell" <controls at freelanceconsulting.net> wrote:


> 
>     Stag and TR7 heads are no longer an issue.
> 
>      
> 
>     There are cylinder head tools available that lift off even the most corroded heads off a Stag or TR7 engine in 30 minutes or less with no damage, actually taking more time to install and remove the tool than it takes to  lifting the head.  That is the first and last tool to use, all other methods are rendered obsolete and typically damage something else in the process.
> 
>     Use of the tool is free excepting you pay round trip shipping of the tool and replace anything you lose or break on the tool.
> 
>     Cheers!
> 
>      
> 
>     Glenn Merrell 
> 
>     aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook)
> 
>     Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!?
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
>     Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2019 12:10 PM
>     To: Paul Dorsey; Triumph list Team.net
>     Subject: Re: [TR] rope trick thingy
> 
>      
> 
>     The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head off any other way.  In that case, chances are good that the liners are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.  But also, IMO, if it?s that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they don?t need to be retained either).
> 
>      
> 
>     I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort to the ?rope trick?.  Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.
> 
>      
> 
>     - Randall
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Paul Dorsey mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com
>     Sent: Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
>     To: Me mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com ; Triumph list Team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
> 
>      
> 
>     Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder down the spark  plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston breaks the head gasket seal?  I thought someone said not to turn over the engine?
> 
>      
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From gdhuggins at genfiniti.com  Mon Sep  9 12:53:44 2019
From: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2019 13:53:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Rear Suspension Update
Message-ID: <7B64340B-06AE-4FC7-A884-02FD37EDB198@genfiniti.com>

All,

For all those following along at home, I installed the rebuilt ?heavy duty? Apple Hydraulics lever shocks on Saturday, with new shock links, being careful to not torque everything down until the suspicion was properly ?loaded".  From the advice you all provided, I kept the road springs I had.

Although I did not take them somewhere to learn what their strengths were, I did measure their heights as:

11 7/16?
11 9/16?

So they are within 1/8? of being the same height, and the ride height looks great.
Driving test was MUCH improved, so I?ll keep the springs for now.

Thank you to everyone who offered input.


Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
817.454.6415




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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep 10 11:37:59 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 10:37:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anyone in US can redo my Stag wooden dash pieces?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH5CmvMXkJykRLURRHgO35-p68bEvNwsea3sazkxjE+Jg@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not really looking for new. However an outfit in the UK can make me a
set for about $500
Sujit
-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From HDRider570 at att.net  Tue Sep 10 12:17:01 2019
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 11:17:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stag Wood Dash
Message-ID: <d74c1598-61f6-dab7-015d-9269662ab7b0@att.net>

I have used prestige Auto Wood near San Jose on several occasions and am 
very happy.  Their Website is

http://www.prestigeautowood.com/index.htm

He takes a long time but his work is excellent.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep 10 12:52:28 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 11:52:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stag Wood Dash
In-Reply-To: <d74c1598-61f6-dab7-015d-9269662ab7b0@att.net>
References: <d74c1598-61f6-dab7-015d-9269662ab7b0@att.net>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEKmErGCJsvhNC5KVzGfV+0cX3=Tyy_UZhDwXw5-wiQ5Q@mail.gmail.com>

Thx. Just called them. They dont do Stags.


but referred me to Madera classics

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 11:17 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net> wrote:

> I have used prestige Auto Wood near San Jose on several occasions and am
> very happy.  Their Website is
>
> http://www.prestigeautowood.com/index.htm
>
> He takes a long time but his work is excellent.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Petaluma CA
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From fmags at cox.net  Tue Sep 10 13:22:48 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 14:22:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anyone in US can redo my Stag wooden dash pieces?
Message-ID: <005401d5680d$24665f10$6d331d30$@cox.net>

Hi Sujit,

I got some nice veneer at a local cabinetry shop, and just did mine myself;
really wasn't that hard, and came out very nice.

But if you want something pre-done, There are some kits available from some
suppliers in the UK; maybe Rimmers, but I see people on the FB site with
kits they have acquired there.  Have not seen anyone who will refinish yours
and send them back though.


Frank

<I'm not really looking for new. However an outfit in the UK can make me a
set for about $500 Sujit
--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California>




From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Sep 10 15:58:47 2019
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 16:58:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] rope trick thingy
In-Reply-To: <1946920993.575919.1567980236365@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuHAdL2FHt1OcNX=UGwaCig48wDEpxRtKb0=c_q_cKOoQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <20190903181016.4223FA0EE9@autox.team.net>
 <016101d562a6$a98dbfb0$fca93f10$@freelanceconsulting.net>
 <1946920993.575919.1567980236365@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <bd78094b-e2d1-bc1f-c9b5-3d76f7851709@tonydrews.com>

Geez yes!? You do NOT want a valve open when you use the rope to push 
the head up.? I'm not sure how you'd get the head nuts off without 
removing the rocker shaft, but you certainly want the valves closed or 
you have a very good chance of damaging an open valve.

- Tony Drews

On 9/8/2019 5:03 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
>
> Haven't heard it mentioned, so question.? When using the "rope trick," 
> would it be wise to remove the pedestal for the rocker arms first so's 
> to avoid damaging valves?
>
>
> Terry
>
>
>
>
> On September 3, 2019 at 6:26 PM "Glenn A. Merrell" 
> <controls at freelanceconsulting.net> wrote:
>
>> Stag and TR7 heads are no longer an issue.
>>
>> There are cylinder head tools available that lift off even the most 
>> corroded heads off a Stag or TR7 engine in 30 minutes or less with no 
>> damage, actually taking more time to install and remove the tool than 
>> it takes to ?lifting the head.? That is the first and last tool to 
>> use, all other methods are rendered obsolete and typically damage 
>> something else in the process.
>>
>> Use of the tool is free excepting you pay round trip shipping of the 
>> tool and replace anything you lose or break on the tool.
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> Glenn Merrell
>>
>> aka StagByTriumph Garage (/now on FaceBook/)
>>
>> Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips 
>> in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional 
>> smell of manure!?
>>
>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf 
>> Of *Randall
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 3, 2019 12:10 PM
>> *To:* Paul Dorsey; Triumph list Team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] rope trick thingy
>>
>> The ?rope trick? is for emergencies, when you just can?t get the head 
>> off any other way.? In that case, chances are good that the liners 
>> are so stuck they don?t need to be retained.? But also, IMO, if it?s 
>> that bad, it?s time to pull the liners anyway (in which case they 
>> don?t need to be retained either).
>>
>> I?ve taken apart some pretty sad TR3 motors, and never had to resort 
>> to the ?rope trick?. ?Getting the head off a Stag or TR7 can be a 
>> real challenge, but the TR3 has never been a problem for me.
>>
>> - Randall
>>
>> *From: *Paul Dorsey <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent: *Monday, September 2, 2019 9:38 PM
>> *To: *Me <mailto:dorpaul1 at gmail.com>; Triumph list Team.net 
>> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *[TR] rope trick thingy
>>
>> Is the rope trick the thing where you put the rope in the cylinder 
>> down the spark? plug hole and then turn the engine so that the piston 
>> breaks the head gasket seal?? I thought someone said not to turn over 
>> the engine?
>>
>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Sep 10 16:22:43 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 18:22:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone in US can redo my Stag wooden dash pieces?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH5CmvMXkJykRLURRHgO35-p68bEvNwsea3sazkxjE+Jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH5CmvMXkJykRLURRHgO35-p68bEvNwsea3sazkxjE+Jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004e01d56826$440b87f0$cc2297d0$@charter.net>

One outfit in Connecticut is CG Auto Wood. I don?t think they refurbish existing dash boards but give them a try. They usually have an exhibit at some of the Connecticut shows and their work is fantastic.

 

https://cgautowood.com/ 

 

Alex Thomson

 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2019 1:38 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Anyone in US can redo my Stag wooden dash pieces?

 

I'm not really looking for new. However an outfit in the UK can make me a set for about $500


Sujit

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 11 09:11:29 2019
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 15:11:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] RE  TR4A - Rear Suspension Update
In-Reply-To: <7B64340B-06AE-4FC7-A884-02FD37EDB198@genfiniti.com>
References: <7B64340B-06AE-4FC7-A884-02FD37EDB198@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR17MB1301A8DD52D2EE14A79E8749E1B10@CY4PR17MB1301.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

It seems to me that a long long time ago someone said the driver's side should sit a little higher without any occupants so that it is level when there is only the driver.

I do not remember who said it or about what TR, but I assume it was on this list.

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
Sent: Monday, September 9, 2019 1:53 PM
To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Rear Suspension Update

All,

For all those following along at home, I installed the rebuilt ?heavy duty? Apple Hydraulics lever shocks on Saturday, with new shock links, being careful to not torque everything down until the suspicion was properly ?loaded".  From the advice you all provided, I kept the road springs I had.

Although I did not take them somewhere to learn what their strengths were, I did measure their heights as:

11 7/16?
11 9/16?

So they are within 1/8? of being the same height, and the ride height looks great.
Driving test was MUCH improved, so I?ll keep the springs for now.

Thank you to everyone who offered input.


Kind Regards,

Guy D. Huggins
gdhuggins at genfiniti.com<mailto:gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
817.454.6415




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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed Sep 11 11:43:42 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 10:43:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] RE  TR4A - Rear Suspension Update
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR17MB1301A8DD52D2EE14A79E8749E1B10@CY4PR17MB1301.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <7B64340B-06AE-4FC7-A884-02FD37EDB198@genfiniti.com>
 <CY4PR17MB1301A8DD52D2EE14A79E8749E1B10@CY4PR17MB1301.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6F926367-4744-492A-BA8C-C70B8AF8FAC3@comcast.net>

Yes.  It was common practice to move the spring spacer from the passenger side to the driver side.  The spacers are simply very short lengths of spring material.  I believe this was done at the dealership once a customer brought up the issue of the car not sitting flat.  Kas mentioned this to me.  TR 2 and 3 as well.  Of course, an IRS car would need a different type of spacer.  I've seen this on a few sets of TR3 springs.  One was from my race car that was originally sold from Cal Sales where Kas worked.  
Dave H.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 11, 2019, at 8:11 AM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> It seems to me that a long long time ago someone said the driver's side should sit a little higher without any occupants so that it is level when there is only the driver.
> 
> I do not remember who said it or about what TR, but I assume it was on this list.
> 
> Rich White Central, IL USA 
> '63 TR3B TCF###L 
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! 
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of G.D. Huggins <gdhuggins at genfiniti.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 9, 2019 1:53 PM
> To: Triumph Mailing List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A - Rear Suspension Update
>  
> All,
> 
> For all those following along at home, I installed the rebuilt ?heavy duty? Apple Hydraulics lever shocks on Saturday, with new shock links, being careful to not torque everything down until the suspicion was properly ?loaded".  From the advice you all provided, I kept the road springs I had.
> 
> Although I did not take them somewhere to learn what their strengths were, I did measure their heights as:
> 
> 11 7/16?
> 11 9/16?
> 
> So they are within 1/8? of being the same height, and the ride height looks great.
> Driving test was MUCH improved, so I?ll keep the springs for now.
> 
> Thank you to everyone who offered input.
> 
> 
> Kind Regards,
> 
> Guy D. Huggins
> gdhuggins at genfiniti.com
> 817.454.6415
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
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From L1j1s at aol.com  Sat Sep 14 09:57:30 2019
From: L1j1s at aol.com (Lawarence Schwartz)
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 11:57:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3paint chart
Message-ID: <1FF3B300-3F71-45D7-8823-1C21DC6E9BF8@aol.com>

List , Just recently someone had posted a picture of the Tr3 paint chips and for the life of me i can?t recall the thread. Can someone if they saved the photo repost it or send it to me off list-l1j1s at aol.com. Thanks in advance. Larry Schwartz 




From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 15 07:39:20 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 09:39:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hole in the side of 2 tappets
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>

I had a chance this afternoon with my engine head off to take my solid
tappets out of my TR3 engine.  To my bewilderment two of the eight solid
lifters had holes in them, both holes were about 1/8" or larger, and it
looked as if they were drilled into the tappet at an angle and they were in
the side of the lifter and about 1/2" from the bottom; I took a picture of
one of them and I will try and post it, ISTR that this list maynot allow
pictures?  The picture must have failed.

I quess they need replacing?  What causes this?

Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Sep 15 08:11:03 2019
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 09:11:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hole in the side of 2 tappets
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0cdb2f6a-5f30-0b9d-242f-a2dd43886ad3@tonydrews.com>

Paul, some of the "competition grade" tappets have an oil drain hole 
drilled as you describe.? They are fine as long as the surface that 
rides against the camshaft isn't pitted or damaged in some way.? It does 
indicate that they are not original, or if original that someone drilled 
oil drain holes in them...

Regards, Tony Drews

On 9/15/2019 8:39 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> I had a chance this afternoon with my engine head off to take my solid 
> tappets out of my TR3 engine.? To my bewilderment two of the eight 
> solid lifters had holes in them, both holes were about 1/8" or larger, 
> and it looked as if they were drilled into the tappet at an angle and 
> they were in the side of the lifter and about 1/2" from the bottom; I 
> took a picture of one of them and I will try and post it, ISTR that 
> this list maynot allow pictures?? The picture must have failed.
>
> I quess they need replacing?? What causes this?
>
> Paul Dorsey? 60 TR3
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From dorpaul1 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 15 08:15:21 2019
From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 10:15:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hole in the side of 2 tappets
In-Reply-To: <0cdb2f6a-5f30-0b9d-242f-a2dd43886ad3@tonydrews.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>
 <0cdb2f6a-5f30-0b9d-242f-a2dd43886ad3@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <CAFU8DPv9r9VW6CvyAJvAD9yvop-omoRJ_i-11bo8-W8_qSyMYw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the info. Can I send you a picture? Paul

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 10:11 AM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Paul, some of the "competition grade" tappets have an oil drain hole
> drilled as you describe.  They are fine as long as the surface that rides
> against the camshaft isn't pitted or damaged in some way.  It does indicate
> that they are not original, or if original that someone drilled oil drain
> holes in them...
>
> Regards, Tony Drews
> On 9/15/2019 8:39 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
>
> I had a chance this afternoon with my engine head off to take my solid
> tappets out of my TR3 engine.  To my bewilderment two of the eight solid
> lifters had holes in them, both holes were about 1/8" or larger, and it
> looked as if they were drilled into the tappet at an angle and they were in
> the side of the lifter and about 1/2" from the bottom; I took a picture of
> one of them and I will try and post it, ISTR that this list maynot allow
> pictures?  The picture must have failed.
>
> I quess they need replacing?  What causes this?
>
> Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
>
>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 15 09:20:01 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 09:20:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hole in the side of 2 tappets
In-Reply-To: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFU8DPuOp-iLCfySQ3SKpEaTZkwt3gHAp9gqd7zNOdpdbAiprw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9e6c257b-15dc-b91e-c553-6a0ed82c7597@bradakis.com>

On 9/15/19 7:39 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote:
> ISTR that this list maynot allow pictures?

Yes, you can send pictures.

mjb.



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From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Sep 15 19:18:59 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 01:18:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] '3a - Bronte and distributor
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB218948DAE47D76F7AE2AA43FB68C0@YTXPR0101MB2189.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>


Evening all

The ?3a went to Bronte today.   ?  She took third in class.  Not bad, not bad at all for her.  Did get caught in a major downpour on the way home.  No side curtains and the first time in at least 25yrs her seeing rain.  I now know where the water come in to cool off my legs LOL

One of the items to hunt down on my list is a replacement dizzy.  I have been looking, Moss one are $$$ ?  Now BPNW has this one, https://www.bpnorthwest.com/distributor-25d4-new.html  it seems like a reasonable price for a points based dizzy.  The shipping is a killer ? Anyone found another source for these?


David Templeton
59 tr3a
74 spitfire
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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep 15 19:48:08 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 20:48:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] '3a - Bronte and distributor
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB218948DAE47D76F7AE2AA43FB68C0@YTXPR0101MB2189.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB218948DAE47D76F7AE2AA43FB68C0@YTXPR0101MB2189.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <4BDD2B08-BBAF-4049-9F79-32E5BD516A48@flash.net>

I bought that dizzy for my Land Rover, never a problem.   Don?t know why shipping would be high.  
Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 15, 2019, at 8:18 PM, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:

 
Evening all
 
The ?3a went to Bronte today.   ?  She took third in class.  Not bad, not bad at all for her.  Did get caught in a major downpour on the way home.  No side curtains and the first time in at least 25yrs her seeing rain.  I now know where the water come in to cool off my legs LOL
 
One of the items to hunt down on my list is a replacement dizzy.  I have been looking, Moss one are $$$ ?  Now BPNW has this one, https://www.bpnorthwest.com/distributor-25d4-new.html  it seems like a reasonable price for a points based dizzy.  The shipping is a killer ? Anyone found another source for these?
 
 
David Templeton
59 tr3a
74 spitfire
<70425851_10156279395781960_135106528532234240_o.jpg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep 15 19:48:08 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2019 20:48:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] '3a - Bronte and distributor
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB218948DAE47D76F7AE2AA43FB68C0@YTXPR0101MB2189.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB218948DAE47D76F7AE2AA43FB68C0@YTXPR0101MB2189.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <4BDD2B08-BBAF-4049-9F79-32E5BD516A48@flash.net>

I bought that dizzy for my Land Rover, never a problem.   Don?t know why shipping would be high.  
Bill B

Sent from my IBM 8088

On Sep 15, 2019, at 8:18 PM, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:

 
Evening all
 
The ?3a went to Bronte today.   ?  She took third in class.  Not bad, not bad at all for her.  Did get caught in a major downpour on the way home.  No side curtains and the first time in at least 25yrs her seeing rain.  I now know where the water come in to cool off my legs LOL
 
One of the items to hunt down on my list is a replacement dizzy.  I have been looking, Moss one are $$$ ?  Now BPNW has this one, https://www.bpnorthwest.com/distributor-25d4-new.html  it seems like a reasonable price for a points based dizzy.  The shipping is a killer ? Anyone found another source for these?
 
 
David Templeton
59 tr3a
74 spitfire
<70425851_10156279395781960_135106528532234240_o.jpg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Tue Sep 17 09:49:09 2019
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2019 11:49:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lou Metelko
Message-ID: <001201d56d6f$7259e8b0$570dba10$@uprichard.net>

Lou:  are you still out there?  If so, can you contact me off-list?  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Sep 18 22:04:36 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 00:04:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 issues
Message-ID: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>

Hi, I just got back home from an excellent 12 day, 2,800 mile road trip in my TR4A and have a couple of small issues that maybe you guys can help me with.
1. Steering wheel squeaking when I turn the wheel. U suspect that the nylon bushings supporting the steering column need lubricant but what should I use?
2. At highway speeds, the shift lever rattles. If I pull up on the shift lever it goes away. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Sep 18 22:10:08 2019
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2019 21:10:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] 2 issues
In-Reply-To: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>
References: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <558AE74E-092F-4B04-A4B5-1156C3E17E8E@mac.com>


Hi Dave,

> 1. Steering wheel squeaking when I turn the wheel. U suspect that the nylon bushings supporting the steering column need lubricant but what should I use?

I would use a dry lubricant, like silicone spray or graphite.

> 2. At highway speeds, the shift lever rattles. If I pull up on the shift lever it goes away. Any ideas?

Do you have the anti-rattle spring and button in place?

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep 18 23:45:01 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2019 22:45:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] 2 issues
In-Reply-To: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>
References: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <C3C39AE0988444A9879175442D799792@RYPC>


> 1. Steering wheel squeaking when I turn the wheel. U suspect 
> that the nylon bushings supporting the steering column need 
> lubricant but what should I use?

I like "dry moly".  Goes on wet (so it penetrates) then dries to a film that
won't attract dirt and such.
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/dry-moly-lube-11-wt-oz-03084.html

> 2. At highway speeds, the shift lever rattles. If I pull up 
> on the shift lever it goes away. Any ideas?

Darrell already mentioned the anti-rattle spring and plunger at the tip of
the shift lever.  In addition:
https://imgur.com/CBvP9YU

-- Randall


From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Sep 19 05:23:35 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 07:23:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2 issues
In-Reply-To: <C3C39AE0988444A9879175442D799792@RYPC>
References: <06EA3F29-A2B0-43A4-859A-8BB93A02F13E@fuse.net>
 <C3C39AE0988444A9879175442D799792@RYPC>
Message-ID: <2894B872-6ECA-4F7F-BF5B-759DC584B7CE@fuse.net>

Thanks for the recommendations everyone!
I will pick some dry moly lube and a piece of plastic hose.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 19, 2019, at 1:45 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>> 1. Steering wheel squeaking when I turn the wheel. U suspect 
>> that the nylon bushings supporting the steering column need 
>> lubricant but what should I use?
> 
> I like "dry moly".  Goes on wet (so it penetrates) then dries to a film that
> won't attract dirt and such.
> https://www.crcindustries.com/products/dry-moly-lube-11-wt-oz-03084.html
> 
>> 2. At highway speeds, the shift lever rattles. If I pull up 
>> on the shift lever it goes away. Any ideas?
> 
> Darrell already mentioned the anti-rattle spring and plunger at the tip of
> the shift lever.  In addition:
> https://imgur.com/CBvP9YU
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net


From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Sep 19 13:42:41 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 15:42:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shift lever plunger question
Message-ID: <088A958A-5227-4240-99EA-0C8F7844D8BA@fuse.net>

I am going to add a small piece of plastic tube on my shift lever and just in case the plunger on the bottom comes out, is there a preference on keeping it installed during assembly?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

From rrochlin at comcast.net  Thu Sep 19 15:40:37 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 17:40:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shift lever plunger question
In-Reply-To: <088A958A-5227-4240-99EA-0C8F7844D8BA@fuse.net>
References: <088A958A-5227-4240-99EA-0C8F7844D8BA@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <98D7FE5A-A8DD-4198-A02E-0AB0819B81A5@comcast.net>

Hi Dave,
  A dab of grease on assembly has always kept the spring and ball in place for me for me.
	Bob

> On Sep 19, 2019, at 3:42 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> 
> I am going to add a small piece of plastic tube on my shift lever and just in case the plunger on the bottom comes out, is there a preference on keeping it installed during assembly?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net


From stan at redtr6.com  Thu Sep 19 15:50:02 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 21:50:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] Shift lever plunger question
In-Reply-To: <088A958A-5227-4240-99EA-0C8F7844D8BA@fuse.net>
References: <088A958A-5227-4240-99EA-0C8F7844D8BA@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <MWHPR0501MB3818648AEA6C5DE05872036DFE890@MWHPR0501MB3818.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

A plastic wire tie will retain the plunger and spring in the hole while you install the gear stick. When you push the stick home (smack the top of the gear stick with the palm of your hand) the wire tie will be loose at the bottom of the gear stick above the plunger and you can retrieve it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 3:43 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Shift lever plunger question

I am going to add a small piece of plastic tube on my shift lever and just in case the plunger on the bottom comes out, is there a preference on keeping it installed during assembly?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com

From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Thu Sep 26 17:01:47 2019
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 23:01:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
Message-ID: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>

While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?

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From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Sep 26 17:11:19 2019
From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 19:11:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <1022829152.380822.1569539479499@myemail.cox.net>

I do!  :)

> On September 26, 2019 at 7:01 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com mailto:mmarr at albiontechnical.com > wrote:
> 
> 
>     While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
> 
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From tboggiano at gmail.com  Thu Sep 26 17:17:55 2019
From: tboggiano at gmail.com (tom boggiano)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 19:17:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <9F05ED14-658E-42E8-B5EF-A4CC5DB31D62@gmail.com>

I have one on the car and a spare one in the tool chest 

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 7:01 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
> 
> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
> 
> <IMG_0518.jpg>
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tboggiano at gmail.com

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Thu Sep 26 17:31:11 2019
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 18:31:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <E3CDB3D6-37EA-4AD8-BC4A-D894E83DBB40@consolidated.net>

Just the one on the car ?. 

Gano

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 6:01 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
> 
> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
> 
> <IMG_0518.jpg>
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Sep 26 18:09:24 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 18:09:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <f7f7d4ca-28fd-2b6a-89a1-492df7b6eddc@bradakis.com>

I've got one.? It's out in the garage somewhere.? Or maybe in my 
office.? Or maybe with all the Lucas NOS stuff in the basement, or ....

mjb.



From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Sep 26 18:37:22 2019
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:37:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.
Message-ID: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>

Hello List:

Just wondering if anyone has had recent experience in dealing with the 
fuel shut-off tap? I have replaced the cork seal in mine and still has 
some leakage. Guess they don't make cork the way they used to... 
Wondering if a neoprene or nylon seal in place of the cork would work 
any better?

Wondering if anyone has tried a work-round of this tap and used a more 
"modern" ball valve? Would like to keep the gas line fittings and the 
reinforced hose to the pump. Both use compression fittings, but trying 
to find a ball valve with these fittings next to impossible.

Thanks for any insights.

Angelo Graham

TR2


From pbaize at satx.rr.com  Thu Sep 26 18:59:37 2019
From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 19:59:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <07e0a97c-180c-6ad0-5f0f-baa6b508c9df@satx.rr.com>

HaHa Yep, on my Spitfire


On 9/26/2019 6:01 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Thu Sep 26 19:04:06 2019
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 01:04:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <1022829152.380822.1569539479499@myemail.cox.net>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>,
 <1022829152.380822.1569539479499@myemail.cox.net>
Message-ID: <47882A66-7BAE-4706-8267-84692668BA90@albiontechnical.com>

I would hope so!

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 26, 2019, at 18:11, JOE CURRY <spitlist at cox.net<mailto:spitlist at cox.net>> wrote:


I do!  :)

On September 26, 2019 at 7:01 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com<mailto:mmarr at albiontechnical.com>> wrote:


While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 26 19:08:23 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 01:08:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.
In-Reply-To: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>
References: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <653238099.9130824.1569546503316@mail.yahoo.com>

 dont you have to soak it in engine oil before inserting ?
frank
    On Thursday, September 26, 2019, 05:37:38 PM PDT, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:  
 
 Hello List:

Just wondering if anyone has had recent experience in dealing with the 
fuel shut-off tap? I have replaced the cork seal in mine and still has 
some leakage. Guess they don't make cork the way they used to... 
Wondering if a neoprene or nylon seal in place of the cork would work 
any better?

Wondering if anyone has tried a work-round of this tap and used a more 
"modern" ball valve? Would like to keep the gas line fittings and the 
reinforced hose to the pump. Both use compression fittings, but trying 
to find a ball valve with these fittings next to impossible.

Thanks for any insights.

Angelo Graham

TR2

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep 26 19:12:00 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 01:12:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <1731480981.10418.1569546720886@mail.yahoo.com>

 I got three.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 6:02 pm
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?

While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **



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From greg at gelhar.com  Thu Sep 26 19:25:53 2019
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:25:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1569547566.28028.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I'm pretty sure that valve used BSPP compression firings. Does anyone have connections to a hardware store in England?

Greg G.

On Sep 26, 2019 7:37 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:
>
> Hello List: 
>
> Just wondering if anyone has had recent experience in dealing with the 
> fuel shut-off tap? I have replaced the cork seal in mine and still has 
> some leakage. Guess they don't make cork the way they used to... 
> Wondering if a neoprene or nylon seal in place of the cork would work 
> any better? 
>
> Wondering if anyone has tried a work-round of this tap and used a more 
> "modern" ball valve? Would like to keep the gas line fittings and the 
> reinforced hose to the pump. Both use compression fittings, but trying 
> to find a ball valve with these fittings next to impossible. 
>
> Thanks for any insights. 
>
> Angelo Graham 
>
> TR2 
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive 
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com 

From tochilds at bellsouth.net  Thu Sep 26 19:37:37 2019
From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (tochilds)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 21:37:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1569548266.28028.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I do!Sent from my Galaxy Tab? S2
-------- Original message --------From: Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> Date: 9/26/19  7:01 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these? While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tochilds at bellsouth.net
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Thu Sep 26 19:53:23 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:53:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <f7f7d4ca-28fd-2b6a-89a1-492df7b6eddc@bradakis.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
 <f7f7d4ca-28fd-2b6a-89a1-492df7b6eddc@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aY9iTduPMMcnC1=_TQorpfLpFZV+npv44viB7OirmoP9A@mail.gmail.com>

I can relate--I don't have a badge, wish I did, but I do have tons of old
parts an memorabilia, books etc., all was somewhat organized, but still
lots of possibilities for where something (in a small universe with many
many something's) might be...then I moved, and my world of stuff is in
great turmoil despite having a dedicated book and magazine room, an indoor
shop and a new shop in the garage (still needs to be shelved up) plus the x
factor of did I dump it in the move, and the double x factor did my wife
toss it and not tell me?

Cheers,

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 7:09 PM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> I've got one.  It's out in the garage somewhere.  Or maybe in my
> office.  Or maybe with all the Lucas NOS stuff in the basement, or ....
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 26 21:38:02 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:38:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <ca5d1560-7f92-6658-d457-730c311ee82c@earthlink.net>

On my TR6.

On 9/26/2019 4:01 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep 26 21:49:51 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 20:49:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.
In-Reply-To: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>
References: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <1470658A709C47F69ED688BE8DA0CE9D@RYPC>


> Just wondering if anyone has had recent experience in dealing 
> with the fuel shut-off tap? 

Not exactly recent; long time ago I replaced the cork with a short length of
nitrile (ethanol-safe) "rubber" fuel line.  I forget the size, just dug
through my collection until I found a piece that fit the hole snugly.

It was a bit finicky to adjust, only a tiny movement was enough to go from
not tight enough (weeping) to so tight I couldn't move the valve.  But once
I found the sweet spot and snugged up the locknut, it lasted many years.
That had to be around 1983 or so, seems like maybe I adjusted it once more
some time before 2000.  Then in 2008, when I moved the valve from the
wrecked TR3A to my current TR3, I adjusted it again.  It still doesn't leak.

-- Randall


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Sep 27 05:29:50 2019
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 07:29:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <fe0be22c-f087-81d9-862c-e2dbda5923f5@adelphia.net>

One on the 3 and one on the 4.

Bob

On 9/26/19 7:01 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Sep 27 06:22:11 2019
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 08:22:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <07e0a97c-180c-6ad0-5f0f-baa6b508c9df@satx.rr.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
 <07e0a97c-180c-6ad0-5f0f-baa6b508c9df@satx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1962064215.400352.1569586931582@connect.xfinity.com>

One on the '3

> On September 26, 2019 at 8:59 PM Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     HaHa Yep, on my Spitfire
> 
> 
>     On 9/26/2019 6:01 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com
> > 
> >     >      https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon
>     Virus-free. www.avast.com https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net
> 


 
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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep 27 06:58:56 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 07:58:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <1962064215.400352.1569586931582@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1962064215.400352.1569586931582@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <A30D3C06-C082-4B17-A219-9A94714A620B@flash.net>

I have mine. 
TS30800L

Sent from my IBM 8088

> On Sep 27, 2019, at 7:22 AM, EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 

?
One on the '3

> On September 26, 2019 at 8:59 PM Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com> wrote: 
> 
> HaHa Yep, on my Spitfire
> 
> 
> 
>> On 9/26/2019 6:01 PM, Michael Marr wrote: 
>> While unpacking (we moved recently) I found my old Triumphs List badge. Does anybody else still have one?
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com
> 
> 	Virus-free. www.avast.com

 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.teamnet/archive 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Sep 27 07:40:42 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 07:40:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <f62d7fa5-ab0a-ee9b-7e17-138e582e023c@bradakis.com>

How about this one?

mjb.


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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep 27 08:52:45 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 09:52:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.
In-Reply-To: <1470658A709C47F69ED688BE8DA0CE9D@RYPC>
References: <5db6bab0-93ee-106d-2646-bdb7d6b637d3@execulink.com>
 <1470658A709C47F69ED688BE8DA0CE9D@RYPC>
Message-ID: <007d01d57543$39d00390$ad700ab0$@flash.net>

Moss shows the cork as p/n 589-220 for $4.99.  For appearances, I would keep
the original in place, I put a ballcock shutoff at my tank where it is
hidden.
Bill
TS30800L

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 10:50 PM
To: 'Angelo Graham' <agraham at execulink.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR 2/3 fuel shut-off tap.


> Just wondering if anyone has had recent experience in dealing with the 
> fuel shut-off tap?

Not exactly recent; long time ago I replaced the cork with a short length of
nitrile (ethanol-safe) "rubber" fuel line.  I forget the size, just dug
through my collection until I found a piece that fit the hole snugly.

It was a bit finicky to adjust, only a tiny movement was enough to go from
not tight enough (weeping) to so tight I couldn't move the valve.  But once
I found the sweet spot and snugged up the locknut, it lasted many years.
That had to be around 1983 or so, seems like maybe I adjusted it once more
some time before 2000.  Then in 2008, when I moved the valve from the
wrecked TR3A to my current TR3, I adjusted it again.  It still doesn't leak.

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From jhmdds at aol.com  Fri Sep 27 12:15:37 2019
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 18:15:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Charles' TR5
References: <933425106.450130.1569608137626.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <933425106.450130.1569608137626@mail.yahoo.com>

I saw where Charles Runyon's TR5 finally sold. ?Anyone have any idea what it went for?
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep 27 16:27:48 2019
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 22:27:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Badge
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>

I didn't know of one and have been on the list about 20 years. What is it? Joe
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Fri Sep 27 16:36:31 2019
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 22:36:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Badge
In-Reply-To: <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>

Joe, if you are referring to the picture I posted, the badges were made by Joe Curry several years ago, for members of this mailing list. Joe may well still have some available.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 27, 2019, at 17:28, JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net<mailto:joemato at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:

I didn't know of one and have been on the list about 20 years. What is it? Joe
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Sep 27 17:08:58 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 19:08:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Who still has one of these?
In-Reply-To: <f62d7fa5-ab0a-ee9b-7e17-138e582e023c@bradakis.com>
References: <4D7B9AC7-51E4-42FD-AA96-A02CDC35F0AE@albiontechnical.com>
 <f62d7fa5-ab0a-ee9b-7e17-138e582e023c@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <008501d57588$8b536c80$a1fa4580$@charter.net>

That mouse has a dirty looking grin with eyes looking sideways!  Nice shot!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J
Bradakis
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 9:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Who still has one of these?

How about this one?

mjb.




From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Sep 27 18:21:04 2019
From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY)
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 20:21:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Badge
In-Reply-To: <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
 <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <1767952046.397709.1569630064375@myemail.cox.net>

The only one I have is the one I took off my own car and it has had the posts removed in order to stick it on with double-stick tape.

> On September 27, 2019 at 6:36 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
> 
>     Joe, if you are referring to the picture I posted, the badges were made by Joe Curry several years ago, for members of this mailing list. Joe may well still have some available. 
> 
>     Mike
> 
>     Sent from my iPhone
> 
>     On Sep 27, 2019, at 17:28, JOSEPH MATO < joemato at sbcglobal.net mailto:joemato at sbcglobal.net > wrote:
> 
> 
>         > >         I didn't know of one and have been on the list about 20 years. What is it? Joe
> > 
> >     > 
>         > >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com
> > 
> >     > 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
> 


 
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Sat Sep 28 15:47:25 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2019 17:47:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Badge
In-Reply-To: <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
 <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <057a01d57646$50e59870$f2b0c950$@bell.net>

I had no room for another badge, so I bought several of the Triumph List and Spitfire List window decals. Still display them proudly. Many years later, but once again, thanks for doing these Joe.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

Michael Marr wrote,  on September 27, 2019 6:37 PM



Joe, if you are referring to the picture I posted, the badges were made by Joe Curry several years ago, for members of this mailing list. Joe may well still have some available. 

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From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Sep 28 16:20:43 2019
From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY)
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2019 18:20:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Badge
In-Reply-To: <057a01d57646$50e59870$f2b0c950$@bell.net>
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
 <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
 <057a01d57646$50e59870$f2b0c950$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <1516213039.8365.1569709243293@myemail.cox.net>

You're welcome.  I still have a few static cling and sticky-back decals if anyone wants one.


Joe

> On September 28, 2019 at 5:47 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     I had no room for another badge, so I bought several of the Triumph List and Spitfire List window decals. Still display them proudly. Many years later, but once again, thanks for doing these Joe.
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     Keith Stewart
> 
>     keithstewart at bell.net
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     Michael Marr wrote,  on September 27, 2019 6:37 PM
> 
> 
>     Joe, if you are referring to the picture I posted, the badges were made by Joe Curry several years ago, for members of this mailing list. Joe may well still have some available. 
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net
> 


 
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Sat Sep 28 16:37:13 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2019 18:37:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Badge
In-Reply-To: <1516213039.8365.1569709243293@myemail.cox.net>
References: <111083236.585694.1569623268302.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <111083236.585694.1569623268302@mail.yahoo.com>
 <84B9FE1A-04A6-4EF7-814E-828A8356FE4B@albiontechnical.com>
 <057a01d57646$50e59870$f2b0c950$@bell.net>
 <1516213039.8365.1569709243293@myemail.cox.net>
Message-ID: <05b601d5764d$46545930$d2fd0b90$@bell.net>

BTW, For those with Minator wheels who want to dress up the hubs, Joe has great decals for the centre caps. I have the bullseye ones on my Spit and the TR Globe ones on my TR4. He also has a fantastic resurfacing kit for the bonnet badge on the 70 Spitfire Mk3 (the Bullseye badge).

 



 



 



 

Cheers Keith

 

From: JOE CURRY <spitlist at cox.net> 
Sent: September 28, 2019 6:21 PM
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>; JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Badge

 

You're welcome.  I still have a few static cling and sticky-back decals if anyone wants one.

 

Joe

On September 28, 2019 at 5:47 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote: 

I had no room for another badge, so I bought several of the Triumph List and Spitfire List window decals. Still display them proudly. Many years later, but once again, thanks for doing these Joe.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

Michael Marr wrote,  on September 27, 2019 6:37 PM

Joe, if you are referring to the picture I posted, the badges were made by Joe Curry several years ago, for members of this mailing list. Joe may well still have some available. 


 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net 


 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 29 12:52:06 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 13:52:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A/TR3B/TR4 Header for sale
Message-ID: <000401d576f6$fe680540$fb380fc0$@ranteer.com>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283628507614?ul_noapp=true

 

in dallas

 

my listing

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 29 12:52:50 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 13:52:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 TR3 cowl nose piece for sale
Message-ID: <000901d576f7$18d1f3f0$4a75dbd0$@ranteer.com>

In Dallas

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283628467139?ul_noapp=true

 

my listing

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From rjones at wfeca.net  Sun Sep 29 17:00:47 2019
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 18:00:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] I 10
Message-ID: <3D66857A-96AE-40A7-B70B-DAD84641BC2F@wfeca.net>

Antone know if I 10 is blocked anywhere in La or Texas?  Taking that route too VTR.

Thank

Bob

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 29 17:06:47 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 19:06:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
Message-ID: <0c4b01d5771a$91caf4f0$b560ded0$@gmail.com>

Question.  I am still having a challenge with the electric temperature gauge
on my 62 TR4.  I am now thinking it might be a bad gauge.  As soon as I
start running the engine the temp gauge pegs to max.  I know by the laser
temp gun I have that it is not running above 165 on the coolant in the
radiator.  I swapped the original voltage stabilizer for a new neg ground
one and it still does the same thing.  I replaced the temp sending unit and
no change.  Bad gauge?  It worked a few years back in 2012 before I took the
car off the road for a restoration.  Does Nisonger rebuild these smaller
gauges?  
Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8


From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 29 18:14:48 2019
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:14:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] I 10
In-Reply-To: <3D66857A-96AE-40A7-B70B-DAD84641BC2F@wfeca.net>
References: <3D66857A-96AE-40A7-B70B-DAD84641BC2F@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR16MB3168BE954996662FF3DCB2C5B9820@MN2PR16MB3168.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>

Robert-

There is a bridge under repair in Houston (I-10 Baytown bridge) which may delay you a bit but traffic is not blocked.  Traffic shares one side of the bridge (2 lanes) while the other two are being repaired after barge damage from the recent tropical storm.  Sorry don't know enough details to know if it is something to avoid.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 6:00 PM
To: Triumph <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] I 10

Antone know if I 10 is blocked anywhere in La or Texas?  Taking that route too VTR.

Thank

Bob
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 29 18:15:18 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 20:15:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] I 10
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR16MB3168BE954996662FF3DCB2C5B9820@MN2PR16MB3168.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3D66857A-96AE-40A7-B70B-DAD84641BC2F@wfeca.net>
 <MN2PR16MB3168BE954996662FF3DCB2C5B9820@MN2PR16MB3168.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgeTLNi6QnKVeeKkQ_9Em+-yyWX9tfBxcizySD=iMYzvA@mail.gmail.com>

Seems like a good time to download the Waze app, which answers questions
like that...

Dave

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 8:15 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Robert-
>
> There is a bridge under repair in Houston (I-10 Baytown bridge) which may
> delay you a bit but traffic is not blocked.  Traffic shares one side of the
> bridge (2 lanes) while the other two are being repaired after barge damage
> from the recent tropical storm.  Sorry don't know enough details to know if
> it is something to avoid.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert
> Jones <rjones at wfeca.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 29, 2019 6:00 PM
> *To:* Triumph <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] I 10
>
> Antone know if I 10 is blocked anywhere in La or Texas?  Taking that route
> too VTR.
>
> Thank
>
> Bob
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 29 18:13:26 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 17:13:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
In-Reply-To: <0c4b01d5771a$91caf4f0$b560ded0$@gmail.com>
References: <0c4b01d5771a$91caf4f0$b560ded0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <31B788E10A9E4BC297D75511349B8EF2@RYPC>

There are two adjustments in the back of the gauge.  On one of my Stag
voltmeters (which is basically the same movement), one of those adjustments
was so loose that it would move by just laying the gauge on the bench a bit
too hard.  I re-staked the rivet just a bit to give it more friction.

The adjustments have slots, but don't really turn. Instead, the slot moves
sideways to change the adjustment.  I made up a simple tool to make it
easier to move them.  I started with a 1/4" bolt and turned the end on the
lathe, but I think you could make something just as effective from an old
cheap screwdriver and some work with a file.
https://imgur.com/xkp7HYz

Yes, I believe most of the gauge rebuilders (Nisonger, Mo-Ma, North
Hollywood, Valley Instrument, etc) will "do" the smaller gauges.  But I kind
of like doing myself when I can.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> Question.  I am still having a challenge with the electric 
> temperature gauge on my 62 TR4.  I am now thinking it might 
> be a bad gauge.  As soon as I start running the engine the 
> temp gauge pegs to max.  I know by the laser temp gun I have 
> that it is not running above 165 on the coolant in the 
> radiator.  I swapped the original voltage stabilizer for a 
> new neg ground one and it still does the same thing.  I 
> replaced the temp sending unit and no change.  Bad gauge?  It 
> worked a few years back in 2012 before I took the car off the 
> road for a restoration. 


From greg at gelhar.com  Sun Sep 29 20:10:46 2019
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg)
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 21:10:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1569809458.28028.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I have cosmetically restored many gauges from all models of Triumph cars. All of the bimetallic small gauges draw 75mA at half scale. 120 MA puts the needle at the top mark and 150 mA pegs the needle to max.
The bimetallic gauges are purely resistive and only full battery voltage would cause the needle to peg on start up. I can not see where any gauge defect would create the symptoms you describe.
Perhaps others can share an idea why you are seeing what you describe.

Greg G.

On Sep 29, 2019 6:06 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Question.? I am still having a challenge with the electric temperature gauge 
> on my 62 TR4.? I am now thinking it might be a bad gauge.? As soon as I 
> start running the engine the temp gauge pegs to max.? I know by the laser 
> temp gun I have that it is not running above 165 on the coolant in the 
> radiator.? I swapped the original voltage stabilizer for a new neg ground 
> one and it still does the same thing.? I replaced the temp sending unit and 
> no change.? Bad gauge?? It worked a few years back in 2012 before I took the 
> car off the road for a restoration.? Does Nisonger rebuild these smaller 
> gauges?? 
> Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.? 
> Jim Henningsen 
> Ocala FL 
> 60 TR3A 
> 61 TR3A 
> 62 TR4 
> 75 TR6 
> 82 Jeep CJ8 
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive 
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep 30 05:46:29 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 11:46:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
In-Reply-To: <20190930021105.CBEA9A072D@autox.team.net>
References: <20190930021105.CBEA9A072D@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1317038009.832303.1569843989811@mail.yahoo.com>

 I must admit a little confusion.? I know they made a change in gauge styles between the TR3 and TR4 but this is an early (very early) TR4 and it may have a TR3-style gauge.? Bit then they never used an electric temp gauge on the TR3.
That said, IF it is a later style gauge a shorted sensor wire would cause a full scale indication on the gauge.? The common test is to unplug the wire from the sender and see if the gauge behaves differently. 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: greg <greg at gelhar.com>
To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Sep 29, 2019 9:11 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge

I have cosmetically restored many gauges from all models of Triumph cars. All of the bimetallic small gauges draw 75mA at half scale. 120 MA puts the needle at the top mark and 150 mA pegs the needle to max.
The bimetallic gauges are purely resistive and only full battery voltage would cause the needle to peg on start up. I can not see where any gauge defect would create the symptoms you describe.
Perhaps others can share an idea why you are seeing what you describe.

Greg G.

On Sep 29, 2019 6:06 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Question.? I am still having a challenge with the electric temperature gauge 
> on my 62 TR4.? I am now thinking it might be a bad gauge.? As soon as I 
> start running the engine the temp gauge pegs to max.? I know by the laser 
> temp gun I have that it is not running above 165 on the coolant in the 
> radiator.? I swapped the original voltage stabilizer for a new neg ground 
> one and it still does the same thing.? I replaced the temp sending unit and 
> no change.? Bad gauge?? It worked a few years back in 2012 before I took the 
> car off the road for a restoration.? Does Nisonger rebuild these smaller 
> gauges?? 
> Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.? 
> Jim Henningsen 
> Ocala FL 
> 60 TR3A 
> 61 TR3A 
> 62 TR4 
> 75 TR6 
> 82 Jeep CJ8 

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From elliottr at rmi.net  Mon Sep 30 15:46:51 2019
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 16:46:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 4 thru 6 lower gear shift boot (grommet)
Message-ID: <fc81e2e3-8252-1d42-2fbf-39e3fc60575b@rmi.net>

Hi,

I replacing the lower gear shift boot/grommet on my wife's TR250.? Part 
number 709329

I am not sure which way it goes.? There is a short end (left side of 
picture) and a taller end ((right side).? I thought I would be able to 
tell which way it went when I test fitted it, but it doesn't seem to fit 
quite right either way.

I suspect short end goes to the front, is that correct?

Thanks,
Roger

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From gdhuggins at genfiniti.com  Mon Sep 30 15:52:37 2019
From: gdhuggins at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 16:52:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 4 thru 6 lower gear shift boot (grommet)
In-Reply-To: <fc81e2e3-8252-1d42-2fbf-39e3fc60575b@rmi.net>
References: <fc81e2e3-8252-1d42-2fbf-39e3fc60575b@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <B0EE6D7D-767E-4E0F-92E3-19CCF1BFDA50@genfiniti.com>

Yes, I believe the short end is in the front (closest to the dash)
Think of it as wanting it as level as possible on the sloped tranny tunnel.

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 4:46 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I replacing the lower gear shift boot/grommet on my wife's TR250.  Part number 709329
> 
> I am not sure which way it goes.  There is a short end (left side of picture) and a taller end ((right side).  I thought I would be able to tell which way it went when I test fitted it, but it doesn't seem to fit quite right either way.
> 
> I suspect short end goes to the front, is that correct?
> 
> Thanks,
> Roger
> 
> <lower_shift_boot.jpg>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gdhuggins at genfiniti.com



From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep 30 16:13:24 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 17:13:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
In-Reply-To: <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net>
References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
 <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZSFuEqu3MGyyeDX3st7Nn3BKymcEX-xomV2ihfe8KYfw@mail.gmail.com>

In my neck of the woods radiator shops are getting few and far between
too.  The last I checked a couple years ago for an old BMW the shops I knew
would do the work were gone, the shops that advertised "radiator repair"
were all actually just general shops that would do radiator replacement.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 4:49 PM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Radiator Shop you say, the closest real radiator shop from here just
> outside of Boson is in Worcester MA, at least an hour away. All the closer
> places are ?we?ll replace your radiator shops?.
> Bob
> ?72TR 6
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:29 AM, COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> ?
> ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a
> half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the
> most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the
> petcock to turn.
>
> You'll be glad you did.
> Colin
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *6pack-request at autox.team.net
> *To: *6pack at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM
> *Subject: *6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26
>
> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>         6pack at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         6pack-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>         6pack-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively)
>    2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Victor Snively <vsnively at aol.com>
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
> Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm
> willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC??
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments/20190929/d02abd0b/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400
> From: alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com>
> To: Victor Snively <vsnively at aol.com>
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAAAEehRW_DXxTqvqUhvTJ_-GOWEpdpfVMegaRDhXiL2TvMY8KQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> It can,  you will need to change the thermostat  elbow cover to a 74 or
> early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose.
>
> Al
>
> On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack <
> 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> > Fellow Enthusiasts,
> >
> > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the
> > drain petcock ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Vic Snively
> > '75 TR6 w/AC
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com
> >
> >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26
> *************************************
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Sep 30 17:57:40 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 18:57:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aZSFuEqu3MGyyeDX3st7Nn3BKymcEX-xomV2ihfe8KYfw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca>
 <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net>
 <CAFtw3aZSFuEqu3MGyyeDX3st7Nn3BKymcEX-xomV2ihfe8KYfw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002c01d577ea$d8f1b730$8ad52590$@ranteer.com>

That is the same here in Dallas.  There is one old school radiator repair shop in Fort Worth, not that far.  They still write your name and order on a yellow pad!  

 

They have been here forever

 

http://kirbysradiatorservice.com/

 

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 5:13 PM
To: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR

 

In my neck of the woods radiator shops are getting few and far between too.  The last I checked a couple years ago for an old BMW the shops I knew would do the work were gone, the shops that advertised "radiator repair" were all actually just general shops that would do radiator replacement.

 

Greg Lemon

TR250

 

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019, 4:49 PM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Radiator Shop you say, the closest real radiator shop from here just outside of Boson is in Worcester MA, at least an hour away. All the closer places are ?we?ll replace your radiator shops?.

Bob

?72TR 6

Sent from my iPhone





On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:29 AM, COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote:

?

...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn.

 

You'll be glad you did.

Colin

 


  _____  


From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack-request at autox.team.net> 
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26

 

Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively)
   2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC)
From: Victor Snively <vsnively at aol.com <mailto:vsnively at aol.com> >
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com <mailto:1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC??
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com <mailto:alansalvy at gmail.com> >
To: Victor Snively <vsnively at aol.com <mailto:vsnively at aol.com> >
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR
Message-ID:
        <CAAAEehRW_DXxTqvqUhvTJ_-GOWEpdpfVMegaRDhXiL2TvMY8KQ at mail.gmail.com <mailto:CAAAEehRW_DXxTqvqUhvTJ_-GOWEpdpfVMegaRDhXiL2TvMY8KQ at mail.gmail.com> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It can,  you will need to change the thermostat  elbow cover to a 74 or
early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose.

Al

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack <
6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote:

> Fellow Enthusiasts,
>
> Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the
> drain petcock ?
>
> Thanks,
> Vic Snively
> '75 TR6 w/AC
>
>
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From jeffn at msystech.com  Mon Sep 30 23:18:44 2019
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 01:18:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>

Hello,

 

I'm looking to have my '72 TR6 painted. However there are  2
restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).  They are both say
that it's going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with my car
mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But the engine bay
is the (original  ???) black. And the frame night need some alignment. The
doors do not align exactly. I'm not looking for a car show looking vehicle.
But I don't want a Maaco job either. Does anyone have  any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Jeff Nathanson

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