From keithstewart at bell.net  Wed Apr  1 13:35:39 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 15:35:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal
In-Reply-To: <1700717513.16271.1585715852339@wamui-hyena.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <1700717513.16271.1585715852339@wamui-hyena.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <04a301d6085c$b9828340$2c8789c0$@bell.net>

But on the TR4, there is a fuzzy seal (pressed on) that goes from the top of the windshield frame (under the chrome capping), down the windshield, down the A post, across the top of the sill, and up the B post (under the chrome capping). Right next to it, following the same path, is a rubber seal that fits into a narrow channel all along the path. Many people have done away with the rubber seal and used a TR6 style that has the fuzzy seal and the rubber seal all in one. These seals follow the same path. I am not sure of the following because I did mine like original but it would seem to me that if you used the combined seal, you would still route it the same way and would not need an additional rubber seal.

 

Cheers

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

From: Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> 
Sent: April 1, 2020 12:38 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

Sounds like the part you want.  See the picture at https://mossmotors.com/doors-1

 

Another picture and explanation is at http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/298.php

 

Brian K

-----Original Message----- 
From: dave 
Sent: Mar 31, 2020 6:27 PM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal 




In the moss catalog #76 680-475 seal upper a post for TR 250 ? is that what I need to seal the wind up window to the windshield?

 

https://mossmotors.com/seal-a-post-short

 

 

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From lherault at verizon.net  Wed Apr  1 13:54:24 2020
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 15:54:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] More origingal TR-6 repair records
References: <002201d6085f$58792ce0$096b86a0$.ref@net>
Message-ID: <002201d6085f$58792ce0$096b86a0$@net>

It's  June of 1972, a bit out of sequence from the last one.   The car was
in for a 6000 service, oil and filter were expected .  It got a tune up and
alignment was checked.   That pat is a little bit of paranoia carried over
from owning a brand new GT6+ for a year.  It seemed to go out of alignment
when you closed a door.    The bill was almost $60, which included $7.25 for
a rental car.

 

At 12,455 miles,  the day after Christmas in 1972 I brought it in for 12000
mile service .  It got oil, plugs, carb needles, condenser, points, a vacuum
hose and a snap in the soft top.  They did a front and rear alignment and
noted that the rear end needed work, probably a bad bearing.  It whined.
Poof.  $140 gone.

 

It went back in  2/5/73, at 13, 324 miles to have the rear end overhauled.
They did, fortunately cover it under the warranty.   I paid $22.47, $14 of
which was for the rental.

 

The saga continues.

 

Ron L

 

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr  1 14:35:56 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 16:35:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal
In-Reply-To: <04a301d6085c$b9828340$2c8789c0$@bell.net>
References: <1700717513.16271.1585715852339@wamui-hyena.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
 <04a301d6085c$b9828340$2c8789c0$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <01c701d60865$27454ae0$75cfe0a0$@uprichard.net>

Not quite:  The dual TR4 seal splits around the triangular piece by the B-post ? see pic ? whereas the TR6 seal does not.  This makes a difference for people worried about concourse judging, but I used the TR6 seal and it worked great.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, MI

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2020 3:36 PM
To: 'Brian Kemp' <bk13 at earthlink.net>; 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

But on the TR4, there is a fuzzy seal (pressed on) that goes from the top of the windshield frame (under the chrome capping), down the windshield, down the A post, across the top of the sill, and up the B post (under the chrome capping). Right next to it, following the same path, is a rubber seal that fits into a narrow channel all along the path. Many people have done away with the rubber seal and used a TR6 style that has the fuzzy seal and the rubber seal all in one. These seals follow the same path. I am not sure of the following because I did mine like original but it would seem to me that if you used the combined seal, you would still route it the same way and would not need an additional rubber seal.

 

Cheers

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net <mailto:bk13 at earthlink.net> > 
Sent: April 1, 2020 12:38 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

Sounds like the part you want.  See the picture at https://mossmotors.com/doors-1

 

Another picture and explanation is at http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/298.php

 

Brian K

-----Original Message----- 
From: dave 
Sent: Mar 31, 2020 6:27 PM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal 



In the moss catalog #76 680-475 seal upper a post for TR 250 ? is that what I need to seal the wind up window to the windshield?

 

https://mossmotors.com/seal-a-post-short

 

 

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Wed Apr  1 15:19:33 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 17:19:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal
In-Reply-To: <01c701d60865$27454ae0$75cfe0a0$@uprichard.net>
References: <1700717513.16271.1585715852339@wamui-hyena.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
 <04a301d6085c$b9828340$2c8789c0$@bell.net>
 <01c701d60865$27454ae0$75cfe0a0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <057801d6086b$3d726b80$b8574280$@bell.net>

Forgot about that ? car is still in winter storage. But, we were talking about the seal at the windshield. I stand corrected ? thanks.

Keith

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: April 1, 2020 4:36 PM
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'Brian Kemp' <bk13 at earthlink.net>; 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

Not quite:  The dual TR4 seal splits around the triangular piece by the B-post ? see pic ? whereas the TR6 seal does not.  This makes a difference for people worried about concourse judging, but I used the TR6 seal and it worked great.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, MI

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2020 3:36 PM
To: 'Brian Kemp' <bk13 at earthlink.net <mailto:bk13 at earthlink.net> >; 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

But on the TR4, there is a fuzzy seal (pressed on) that goes from the top of the windshield frame (under the chrome capping), down the windshield, down the A post, across the top of the sill, and up the B post (under the chrome capping). Right next to it, following the same path, is a rubber seal that fits into a narrow channel all along the path. Many people have done away with the rubber seal and used a TR6 style that has the fuzzy seal and the rubber seal all in one. These seals follow the same path. I am not sure of the following because I did mine like original but it would seem to me that if you used the combined seal, you would still route it the same way and would not need an additional rubber seal.

 

Cheers

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net <mailto:bk13 at earthlink.net> > 
Sent: April 1, 2020 12:38 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal

 

Sounds like the part you want.  See the picture at https://mossmotors.com/doors-1

 

Another picture and explanation is at http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/298.php

 

Brian K

-----Original Message----- 
From: dave 
Sent: Mar 31, 2020 6:27 PM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  
Subject: [TR] TR4 windshield to window seal 

In the moss catalog #76 680-475 seal upper a post for TR 250 ? is that what I need to seal the wind up window to the windshield?

 

https://mossmotors.com/seal-a-post-short

 

 

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 16:19:17 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 17:19:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
References: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>

Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.  

Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.  

Bill B
TS30800L

?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Apr  1 16:30:54 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 18:30:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>
References: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7.ref@yahoo.com>
 <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <721d55d2-e297-3890-d055-31efac71fcc2@adelphia.net>

Bill,

Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait 
it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. 
Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in 
your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to 
seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!

Bob

On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>
> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>
> Bill B
> TS30800L
>
> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 18:07:14 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 18:07:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <721d55d2-e297-3890-d055-31efac71fcc2@adelphia.net>
References: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7.ref@yahoo.com>
 <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>
 <721d55d2-e297-3890-d055-31efac71fcc2@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <3911AB4D-E613-467F-8AC2-069CE67961A8@comcast.net>

Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 18:37:49 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 19:37:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <3911AB4D-E613-467F-8AC2-069CE67961A8@comcast.net>
References: <3911AB4D-E613-467F-8AC2-069CE67961A8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1FE3F2F2-BC0A-47CE-A4C9-9E60770374D8@yahoo.com>

Bud,
Yes, I have lost wiring to them before.  Worst experience was one chewed a hole in the bottom corner of a brake fluid tank. 

Bill

.  

?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy

On Apr 1, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

?Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 18:37:49 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 19:37:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <3911AB4D-E613-467F-8AC2-069CE67961A8@comcast.net>
References: <3911AB4D-E613-467F-8AC2-069CE67961A8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1FE3F2F2-BC0A-47CE-A4C9-9E60770374D8@yahoo.com>

Bud,
Yes, I have lost wiring to them before.  Worst experience was one chewed a hole in the bottom corner of a brake fluid tank. 

Bill

.  

?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy

On Apr 1, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

?Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  1 20:49:47 2020
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2020 02:49:47 -0000
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
Message-ID: <126105121.3.1585795785169@localhost>


Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 miles from here.  All that did was making room for more of the little pests. 
I finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. 
The squirrels didn't move out immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't returned. 
Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application

-----Original Message-----

From: levilevi at comcast.net
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests

Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 21:22:17 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 22:22:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <126105121.3.1585795785169@localhost>
References: <126105121.3.1585795785169@localhost>
Message-ID: <68C8D7B7-EB1E-4B85-B8F4-F09B9E636295@yahoo.com>

May give that a try.  Catch and release only works if you can find and close all the holes.  We have about 70 oaks and many many squirrels, but this is the first time they have managed to get in. 
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:55 PM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?
Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 miles from here.  All that did was making room for more of the little pests. 
I finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the hole with an electrical outlet cover plate.
The squirrels didn't move out immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't returned. 
Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application

-----Original Message-----

From: levilevi at comcast.net
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests

Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  1 21:22:17 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 22:22:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <126105121.3.1585795785169@localhost>
References: <126105121.3.1585795785169@localhost>
Message-ID: <68C8D7B7-EB1E-4B85-B8F4-F09B9E636295@yahoo.com>

May give that a try.  Catch and release only works if you can find and close all the holes.  We have about 70 oaks and many many squirrels, but this is the first time they have managed to get in. 
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:55 PM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?
Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 miles from here.  All that did was making room for more of the little pests. 
I finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the hole with an electrical outlet cover plate.
The squirrels didn't move out immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't returned. 
Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application

-----Original Message-----

From: levilevi at comcast.net
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests

Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become expendable.
Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes and foxes.

Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.

Rant off.

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they entered. Been there and done that!
> 
> Bob
> 
>>> On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.
>> 
>> Bill B
>> TS30800L
>> 
>> ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 07:11:04 2020
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2020 13:11:04 -0000
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
Message-ID: <175911060.3.1585833061584@localhost>

My wife used to think they were cute before the day she reached into the 
Milkbone box to reward our dog for something or other. When a squirrel ran up her arm folks on the other side of town probably heard her scream. Once the dog recovered his senses, he dutifully dispatched the thief. 
That's when I knew I had to do something more than "trap and release", and since shooting them in the house was out of the question, I turned to a more "organic" approach.
I have read that peppermint oil actually makes squirrels sick but have no way to confirm it.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 


-----Original Message----- 

From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: pdqtr6 at comcast.net, levilevi at comcast.net, yellowtr at adelphia.net 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 2020-04-02 8:51:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests 

 Came, knocked down the bird feeder, tore it up, ate the contents, and clawed 
and dented the other bird feeder. Then, as a middle finger to humiliate us, 
dumped the above onto our garden hose. Maybe we'll try the peppermint oil???? 
On April 1, 2020 at 10:55 PMpdqtr6 at comcast.net (mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net) 
wrote:


 Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they 
could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 
miles from here. All that did was making room for more of the little pests. I 
finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access 
hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked 
several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the 
hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. The squirrels didn't move out 
immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't 
returned. Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I 
have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.

 Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 
 -----Original Message----- 
 From: levilevi at comcast.net (mailto:levilevi at comcast.net) To: 
yellowtr at adelphia.net (mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net) Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
 (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 
Shop pests
 Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim 
Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I 
have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear 
up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become 
expendable. Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with 
an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just 
come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes 
and foxes.
 Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a 
farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that 
when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no 
reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.
 Rant off. 
 Sent from my Commodore 64 
 On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob < yellowtr at adelphia.net 
(mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net)> wrote: 
 Bill, 
 Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it 
with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in 
a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. 
Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they 
entered. Been there and done that!
 Bob 
 On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote: Help!!! I now have squirrels in the 
shop. Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making 
their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
 Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out? I could 
probably spray something up there.
 Bill B TS30800L 
 ?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy  ** triumphs at autox.team.net 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html (http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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triumphs at autox.team.net (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html (http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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 ** triumphs at autox.team.net (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 10:05:47 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 12:05:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>
References: <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7.ref@yahoo.com>
 <B2DBBCFB-F6DD-4343-ACE3-7244F6C12AC7@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 6:19 PM bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16?
> in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that
> separates the shop and the barn.
>
> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I
> could probably spray something up there.
>

WE live in a cedar house, which to a squirrel is a combination of cotton
candy and crack.  They can't get enough of the end of my house.  Twice a
year during nesting season, we spray the end of the house with this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Repellent-1-Gallon-Groundhog-Herbivore/dp/B009QAPT24/ref=sr_1_4
  It has proven remarkably effective for us.  Has a bit of a tang, but not
as bad as you might think.  You wouldn't have to reapply it nearly as often
indoors.

Jeff Scarbrough
Acrae Sciuridae, Ga.
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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 13:27:12 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (anabil007)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 12:27:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>

Squirrels are good to eat...?

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA


> On Apr 2, 2020, at 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 6:19 PM bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.  
>> 
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I could probably spray something up there.  
> 
> WE live in a cedar house, which to a squirrel is a combination of cotton candy and crack.  They can't get enough of the end of my house.  Twice a year during nesting season, we spray the end of the house with this stuff:  https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Repellent-1-Gallon-Groundhog-Herbivore/dp/B009QAPT24/ref=sr_1_4    It has proven remarkably effective for us.  Has a bit of a tang, but not as bad as you might think.  You wouldn't have to reapply it nearly as often indoors.
> 
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Acrae Sciuridae, Ga.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 13:42:33 2020
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 14:42:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>

One of those tree-dwelling rats gave my security camera a hairy eyeball a
couple of years ago as the bas**rd looked for something to destroy.  I
can't stand those rodents.  Vermin.


On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 2:27 PM anabil007 <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Squirrels are good to eat...?
>
> Bill Pugh
> Wallace, CA
>
>
> On Apr 2, 2020, at 9:08 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 6:19 PM bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Help!!! I now have squirrels in the shop.  Way up in the ridge, about 16?
>> in the air, they are thinking a making their home in the wall that
>> separates the shop and the barn.
>>
>> Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out?   I
>> could probably spray something up there.
>>
>
> WE live in a cedar house, which to a squirrel is a combination of cotton
> candy and crack.  They can't get enough of the end of my house.  Twice a
> year during nesting season, we spray the end of the house with this stuff:
> https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Repellent-1-Gallon-Groundhog-Herbivore/dp/B009QAPT24/ref=sr_1_4
>   It has proven remarkably effective for us.  Has a bit of a tang, but not
> as bad as you might think.  You wouldn't have to reapply it nearly as often
> indoors.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Acrae Sciuridae, Ga.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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>
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Apr  2 16:50:32 2020
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:50:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
 <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>

One ate the main wiring harness on my TR2 flush with the firewall.

Take them far away or they can come back. I had one with a split tail that
came back twice. First time, didn't believe it and painted him with pink
landscapers paint.  A few days later, good old pink was back.  Took em all
across the river after that.
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 16:57:53 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:57:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
 <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1217295564.19629.1585868273944@connect.xfinity.com>

Most of you have heard this already.  In 2004 I found my rusted out project 3A where it had squatted on rotting tires in a shed in New York for 25 years.  During that time racoons had used the engine bay as a outhouse.  3 inches of racoon poop everywhere.  As I beat the drums trying to unlock the brakes, a cloud of fecal dust wafted around my head.  

Oh well, I understand they once used whale snot to make perfume.

But I'm all for eating racoons and squirrels now.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

> On April 2, 2020 at 6:50 PM Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     One ate the main wiring harness on my TR2 flush with the firewall.
> 
>     Take them far away or they can come back. I had one with a split tail that came back twice. First time, didn't believe it and painted him with pink landscapers paint.  A few days later, good old pink was back.  Took em all across the river after that.
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr  2 17:32:41 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:32:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <1217295564.19629.1585868273944@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
 <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1217295564.19629.1585868273944@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <004401d60947$017dadb0$04790910$@ranteer.com>

My sister has a racoon coat!  Its warm and pretty.

 

She likes to say she won it in a fight over a garbage can

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 5:58 PM
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>; list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests

 

Most of you have heard this already.  In 2004 I found my rusted out project 3A where it had squatted on rotting tires in a shed in New York for 25 years.  During that time racoons had used the engine bay as a outhouse.  3 inches of racoon poop everywhere.  As I beat the drums trying to unlock the brakes, a cloud of fecal dust wafted around my head.   

 

Oh well, I understand they once used whale snot to make perfume. 

 

But I'm all for eating racoons and squirrels now. 

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

On April 2, 2020 at 6:50 PM Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com <mailto:ccsimonsen at gmail.com> > wrote: 

One ate the main wiring harness on my TR2 flush with the firewall. 

 

Take them far away or they can come back. I had one with a split tail that came back twice. First time, didn't believe it and painted him with pink landscapers paint.  A few days later, good old pink was back.  Took em all across the river after that. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr  2 17:44:34 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:44:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
Message-ID: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>

My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the
breather cap

 

Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?

 

Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc

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From ryel at mac.com  Thu Apr  2 18:00:50 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2020 00:00:50 -0000
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
Message-ID: <881bed83-af8a-4cdf-94a9-f3c080d4b24e@me.com>

I get that some people what to be humane to squirrels, even though they are rodents, but trapping them and relocating them is just passing the problem to somebody else. ?You also don't want to use poison as?some may die outside, now you've got the next animal up on the food chain that eats it and they get sick and die, like a coyote, bobcat, or what ever you have in your neighborhood.

Good luck,

Rye




On April 2, 2020 at 4:29 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

Most of you have heard this already.? In 2004 I found my rusted out project 3A where it had squatted on rotting tires in a shed in New York for 25 years.? During that time racoons had used the engine bay as a outhouse.? 3 inches of racoon poop everywhere.? As I beat the drums trying to unlock the brakes, a cloud of fecal dust wafted around my head.??

Oh well, I understand they once used whale snot to make perfume.

But I'm all for eating racoons and squirrels now.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
On April 2, 2020 at 6:50 PM Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote: 

One ate the main wiring harness on my TR2 flush with the firewall.

Take them far away or they can come back. I had one with a split tail that came back twice. First time, didn't believe it and painted him with pink landscapers paint.? A few days later, good old pink was back.? Took em all across the river after that.
** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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?
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 19:02:44 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 20:02:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>

Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
 
Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
 
Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 19:02:44 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 20:02:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>

Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
 
Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
 
Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From john at linneyweb.com  Thu Apr  2 19:07:33 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 18:07:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
 <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9C819E3D-169E-4E2C-BAAC-868E99B1FFE3@linneyweb.com>

Early TR4s are like TR3s with the vented oil filler - no vent from the valve cover. Maybe you have excessive crankcase pressure due to blow by or worn valve guides? Have you done a warm compression test?

> On Apr 2, 2020, at 6:02 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
> Bill
> 
> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
> 
> On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
>  
> Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
>  
> Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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> 
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> 
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> 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  2 20:08:13 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 20:08:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
 <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <646e5dbd-e1b6-2a88-18ff-79ad18659c79@bradakis.com>


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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Apr  2 20:29:09 2020
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 19:29:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO8Q7CM5xx1y7K1p9u-T0bDMzc-ijg9p-RO-v1YMsgND0_LaQQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7E35752C-2ADA-4DB3-92B3-3A74FE0A2A14@comcast.net>
 <CAPK7CFB00hL4-x8vV4CsFFph1SjFYL7F9-NS8hB6+n9Oj6ezWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANhzkeN47xA-tfDrMfwiw+9y2vfzC8XvUpDmjKYNBfU=VoiD9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d6095f$aa0c3c40$fe24b4c0$@net>

I think you went too far ? half way across the river would suffice. J

 

Sorry, couldn?t resist.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2020 3:51 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests

 

One ate the main wiring harness on my TR2 flush with the firewall.

 

Take them far away or they can come back. I had one with a split tail that came back twice. First time, didn't believe it and painted him with pink landscapers paint.  A few days later, good old pink was back.  Took em all across the river after that.

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From jbmills at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr  2 22:28:26 2020
From: jbmills at roadrunner.com (Jim Mills)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 21:28:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
 <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>

Bill?s comment begs a question or two.  My later TR4 has the valve cover vented to the carbs.  You cannot (at least I have not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.  How do I remedy this problem?  I was told to NOT plug that vent from the valve cover.  Suggestions?  Jim Mills

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 6:03 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 valve cover

 

Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  

Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 


On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> > wrote:

?

My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap

 

Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?

 

Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 22:53:22 2020
From: bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com (Bob Westerdale)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 04:53:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <802341975.109095.1585889602931@mail.yahoo.com>

 Make sure your road draft tube is 'clear'.? Other cause could be excessiveblow-by.? ?I have an '68 engine in my '59 TR3,? the block had a plug in?the road draft tube port,? and I wasn't running the? PCV crankcase vaporrecycle tubes,? ( a-la 1968)? so any and all blow-by? ( c'mon, they all do it)? came shootingout the valve cover oil fill cap. ( it was vented)Bob WesterdaleTS36967? ?
    On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 08:41:06 PM EDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap

 ?

Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?

 ?

Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 23:27:38 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 00:27:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
References: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <A60F5A48-04A1-4467-98C8-D5552517F5CC@yahoo.com>

Moss shows it as part 360-630, although the one on mine was much smaller.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 11:28 PM, Jim Mills <jbmills at roadrunner.com> wrote:

?
Bill?s comment begs a question or two.  My later TR4 has the valve cover vented to the carbs.  You cannot (at least I have not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.  How do I remedy this problem?  I was told to NOT plug that vent from the valve cover.  Suggestions?  Jim Mills
 
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 6:03 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 valve cover
 
Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
 
Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
 
Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 23:27:38 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 00:27:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
References: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <A60F5A48-04A1-4467-98C8-D5552517F5CC@yahoo.com>

Moss shows it as part 360-630, although the one on mine was much smaller.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 11:28 PM, Jim Mills <jbmills at roadrunner.com> wrote:

?
Bill?s comment begs a question or two.  My later TR4 has the valve cover vented to the carbs.  You cannot (at least I have not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.  How do I remedy this problem?  I was told to NOT plug that vent from the valve cover.  Suggestions?  Jim Mills
 
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 6:03 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 valve cover
 
Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
 
Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
 
Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr  2 23:47:09 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 22:47:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
 <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
 <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <FA0BE5F746C5452FA3ABEE8BDB57ADB0@RYPC>


> Bill's comment begs a question or two.  My later TR4 has the 
> valve cover vented to the carbs.  You cannot (at least I have 
> not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.  
> How do I remedy this problem?  I was told to NOT plug that 
> vent from the valve cover.  Suggestions?  

One approach is to modify the air filters yourself.  Easy lathe project if
you have access to a lathe; or something like this
https://amzn.com/B01C9A386Q
Combined with a NPT to hose barb adapter like this
https://amzn.com/B07TYJMGXJ

This might make more sense with a K&N filter or similar, so you don't have
to keep redoing it every time you replace the filter element.  Here's a
clever approach
https://is.gd/KqiAkQ

Another, less elegant solution is to just attach a longer length of tubing
to that port and let it hang down below the frame rail.

Yet another solution would be to drill & tap the intake manifold, and add a
PCV valve ala TR4A
https://i.imgur.com/nfIpy40.jpg

And finally, you could install a crankcase evacuation system that taps into
the exhaust.
https://i.imgur.com/EKNowxs.jpg  (photo from Joe Alexander)
https://is.gd/HmzoKv

The exhaust port gets really hot, so be sure to use high temperature
silicone hose.

-- Randall


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr  2 23:58:53 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 22:58:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <FA0BE5F746C5452FA3ABEE8BDB57ADB0@RYPC>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
 <15FFB41A-0112-4FF7-BED5-10FCF74C450F@yahoo.com>
 <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
 <FA0BE5F746C5452FA3ABEE8BDB57ADB0@RYPC>
Message-ID: <F88716D0CB974E32874C2F61824319D7@RYPC>

Oops, forgot one:

If you pry out the plug and install the road draft tube from an earlier TR,
then you could cap the line from the rocker cover.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  3 09:27:55 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 15:27:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
References: <005d01d60948$a9ef5ce0$fdce16a0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <81476072.74535.1585927675849@mail.yahoo.com>

 convert it to the PCV valve assembly that came on the later TR4
    On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 05:41:31 PM PDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 
My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap

 ?

Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?

 ?

Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From john at linneyweb.com  Fri Apr  3 11:26:18 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 10:26:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
References: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <38CCC092-F794-41E0-9180-E495603D416C@linneyweb.com>

I have seen people route that vent to a catch can, or even just perch a small breather on it. Like this https://mossmotors.com/engine-breather-filter-inlet



> On Apr 2, 2020, at 9:28 PM, Jim Mills <jbmills at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Bill?s comment begs a question or two.  My later TR4 has the valve cover vented to the carbs.  You cannot (at least I have not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.  How do I remedy this problem?  I was told to NOT plug that vent from the valve cover.  Suggestions?  Jim Mills
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill beecher
> Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 6:03 PM
> To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 valve cover
>  
> Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs?  Maybe a plugged PCV valve?  If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap.  
> Bill
> 
> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
> 
> On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap
>  
> Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?
>  
> Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
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From bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  3 11:52:58 2020
From: bwesterdale53 at yahoo.com (Bob Westerdale)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 17:52:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 valve cover
In-Reply-To: <38CCC092-F794-41E0-9180-E495603D416C@linneyweb.com>
References: <039701d60970$5244b530$f6ce1f90$@roadrunner.com>
 <38CCC092-F794-41E0-9180-E495603D416C@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <2079396100.85798.1585936378255@mail.yahoo.com>

 That filter is a good idea if you're planning on using the road tube to evacuate the crankcase and allow a stream offresh ( now filtered) air into the engine's internals.? ?While it may be an appealing approach ( ie scavenging all the blow-by?out the tube, and replenishing the air)? ?I can only report that lightly 'sealing' the oil filler so that little or no vapors go in or out( I added a rubber insert to the original breather cap)? and just allowing the blow-by to exit the engine on it's own ( with some?slight suction from the road tube) has been quite successful, no stink, no oil vapors and no oil burning or leakage ( beyond normal)I do regret that my blow-by is not handled in a 100% environmentally responsible manner,? ( ie.? routing it back into the manifold)but when I see the kid with the 300 hp RiceBurner up the street smoking his tires to destruction, I'm not so sure my casual drivingis much of an offense....thanksBob
    On Friday, April 3, 2020, 01:26:40 PM EDT, John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:  
 
 I have seen people route that vent to a catch can, or even just perch a small breather on it. Like this https://mossmotors.com/engine-breather-filter-inlet




On Apr 2, 2020, at 9:28 PM, Jim Mills <jbmills at roadrunner.com> wrote:



?

Bill?s comment begs a question or two.? My later TR4 has the valve cover vented to the carbs.? You cannot (at least I have not found any) buy any of the air filters for this system.? How do I remedy this problem?? I was told to NOT plug that vent from the valve cover.? Suggestions?? Jim Mills

 ?

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 6:03 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 valve cover

 ?

Isn?t you valve cover vented to the carbs? ?Maybe a plugged PCV valve? ?If so, I would think you should not have a vented cap. ?

Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands.?


On Apr 2, 2020, at 7:41 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?

My early TR4 (9,XXX) spits oil all over its nice chrome valve cover from the breather cap

?

Is there anything I can do about it other than clean it often?

?

Btw it has 89 mm pistons, mild cam, polished/ported/shaved head, etc

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From john-marie at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr  3 13:46:22 2020
From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (John Deluca)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 14:46:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 master cylinder
References: <40878AC1-C40F-41DC-BE38-DA9CFF025682.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <40878AC1-C40F-41DC-BE38-DA9CFF025682@sbcglobal.net>

I can not get fluid to move from the clutch side of the Lockheed master cylinder on my TR2.  Brake side bled fine.  MC was rebuilt by PO.  I?ve been through it twice trying to find the problem.  The MC is on the bench, disassembled again.  It was assembled correctly, the pistons depress and return, all holes/lines are open,  rubber is new, fit is snug, cylinders have been honed, clean Dot 5 fluid, line to clutch slave is clear.  Am completely unable to get any fluid out of the cylinder.  The piston does move full travel when trying to bleed.  Any suggestions on how to get the fluid moving will be most appreciated.
John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 18:50:11 2020
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2020 20:50:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <40878AC1-C40F-41DC-BE38-DA9CFF025682@sbcglobal.net>
References: <40878AC1-C40F-41DC-BE38-DA9CFF025682.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <40878AC1-C40F-41DC-BE38-DA9CFF025682@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeML8Jk3FgR7QbgQ1DXewPoBRAchHOXDhZjihHbC3PB3Rg@mail.gmail.com>

Have you tried to wet it externally?

Its worth a try to put it on the bench and actuate manually.  Let's see
where it goes from here.
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 07:25:30 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 08:25:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <175911060.3.1585833061584@localhost>
References: <175911060.3.1585833061584@localhost>
Message-ID: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>

Makes me think of the Ray Stevens song about the squirrel in church.
B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:11 AM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?My wife used to think they were cute before the day she reached into the 
Milkbone box to reward our dog for something or other. When a squirrel ran up her arm folks on the other side of town probably heard her scream. Once the dog recovered his senses, he dutifully dispatched the thief. 
That's when I knew I had to do something more than "trap and release", and since shooting them in the house was out of the question, I turned to a more "organic" approach.
I have read that peppermint oil actually makes squirrels sick but have no way to confirm it.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 


-----Original Message----- 

From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: pdqtr6 at comcast.net, levilevi at comcast.net, yellowtr at adelphia.net 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 2020-04-02 8:51:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests 

Came, knocked down the bird feeder, tore it up, ate the contents, and clawed 
and dented the other bird feeder. Then, as a middle finger to humiliate us, 
dumped the above onto our garden hose. Maybe we'll try the peppermint oil???? 
On April 1, 2020 at 10:55 PMpdqtr6 at comcast.net (mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net) 
wrote:


Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they 
could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 
miles from here. All that did was making room for more of the little pests. I 
finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access 
hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked 
several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the 
hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. The squirrels didn't move out 
immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't 
returned. Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I 
have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.

Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 
-----Original Message----- 
From: levilevi at comcast.net (mailto:levilevi at comcast.net) To: 
yellowtr at adelphia.net (mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net) Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 
Shop pests
Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim
Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I 
have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear 
up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become 
expendable. Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with 
an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just 
come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes 
and foxes.
Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a 
farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that 
when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no 
reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.
Rant off. 
Sent from my Commodore 64 
On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob < yellowtr at adelphia.net 
(mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net)> wrote: 
Bill, 
Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it 
with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in 
a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. 
Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they 
entered. Been there and done that!
Bob 
On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote: Help!!! I now have squirrels in the 
shop. Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making 
their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out? I could 
probably spray something up there.
Bill B TS30800L 
?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy  ** triumphs at autox.team.net 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 07:25:30 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 08:25:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <175911060.3.1585833061584@localhost>
References: <175911060.3.1585833061584@localhost>
Message-ID: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>

Makes me think of the Ray Stevens song about the squirrel in church.
B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:11 AM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?My wife used to think they were cute before the day she reached into the 
Milkbone box to reward our dog for something or other. When a squirrel ran up her arm folks on the other side of town probably heard her scream. Once the dog recovered his senses, he dutifully dispatched the thief. 
That's when I knew I had to do something more than "trap and release", and since shooting them in the house was out of the question, I turned to a more "organic" approach.
I have read that peppermint oil actually makes squirrels sick but have no way to confirm it.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 


-----Original Message----- 

From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: pdqtr6 at comcast.net, levilevi at comcast.net, yellowtr at adelphia.net 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 2020-04-02 8:51:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests 

Came, knocked down the bird feeder, tore it up, ate the contents, and clawed 
and dented the other bird feeder. Then, as a middle finger to humiliate us, 
dumped the above onto our garden hose. Maybe we'll try the peppermint oil???? 
On April 1, 2020 at 10:55 PMpdqtr6 at comcast.net (mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net) 
wrote:


Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they 
could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 
miles from here. All that did was making room for more of the little pests. I 
finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access 
hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked 
several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the 
hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. The squirrels didn't move out 
immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't 
returned. Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I 
have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.

Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 
-----Original Message----- 
From: levilevi at comcast.net (mailto:levilevi at comcast.net) To: 
yellowtr at adelphia.net (mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net) Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 
Shop pests
Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim
Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I 
have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear 
up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become 
expendable. Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with 
an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just 
come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes 
and foxes.
Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a 
farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that 
when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no 
reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.
Rant off. 
Sent from my Commodore 64 
On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob < yellowtr at adelphia.net 
(mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net)> wrote: 
Bill, 
Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it 
with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in 
a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. 
Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they 
entered. Been there and done that!
Bob 
On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote: Help!!! I now have squirrels in the 
shop. Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making 
their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out? I could 
probably spray something up there.
Bill B TS30800L 
?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy  ** triumphs at autox.team.net 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html (http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 07:30:59 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 08:30:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>
References: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <64C5602E-805F-4CE4-A7B0-A8DF68DEB7DC@yahoo.com>

What is the dilution ratio for the peppermint oil method?
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:25 AM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:

?Makes me think of the Ray Stevens song about the squirrel in church.
B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:11 AM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?My wife used to think they were cute before the day she reached into the 
Milkbone box to reward our dog for something or other. When a squirrel ran up her arm folks on the other side of town probably heard her scream. Once the dog recovered his senses, he dutifully dispatched the thief. 
That's when I knew I had to do something more than "trap and release", and since shooting them in the house was out of the question, I turned to a more "organic" approach.
I have read that peppermint oil actually makes squirrels sick but have no way to confirm it.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 


-----Original Message----- 

From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: pdqtr6 at comcast.net, levilevi at comcast.net, yellowtr at adelphia.net 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 2020-04-02 8:51:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests 

Came, knocked down the bird feeder, tore it up, ate the contents, and clawed 
and dented the other bird feeder. Then, as a middle finger to humiliate us, 
dumped the above onto our garden hose. Maybe we'll try the peppermint oil???? 
On April 1, 2020 at 10:55 PMpdqtr6 at comcast.net (mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net) 
wrote:


Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they 
could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 
miles from here. All that did was making room for more of the little pests. I 
finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access 
hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked 
several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the 
hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. The squirrels didn't move out 
immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't 
returned. Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I 
have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.

Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 
-----Original Message----- 
From: levilevi at comcast.net (mailto:levilevi at comcast.net) To: 
yellowtr at adelphia.net (mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net) Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 
Shop pests
Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim
Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I 
have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear 
up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become 
expendable. Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with 
an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just 
come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes 
and foxes.
Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a 
farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that 
when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no 
reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.
Rant off. 
Sent from my Commodore 64 
On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob < yellowtr at adelphia.net 
(mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net)> wrote: 
Bill, 
Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it 
with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in 
a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. 
Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they 
entered. Been there and done that!
Bob 
On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote: Help!!! I now have squirrels in the 
shop. Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making 
their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out? I could 
probably spray something up there.
Bill B TS30800L 
?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy  ** triumphs at autox.team.net 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  2 07:30:59 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2020 08:30:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Shop pests
In-Reply-To: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>
References: <A3421492-A79C-460A-AF58-0C1419B2A01F@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <64C5602E-805F-4CE4-A7B0-A8DF68DEB7DC@yahoo.com>

What is the dilution ratio for the peppermint oil method?
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:25 AM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:

?Makes me think of the Ray Stevens song about the squirrel in church.
B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 8:11 AM, pdqtr6 at comcast.net wrote:

?My wife used to think they were cute before the day she reached into the 
Milkbone box to reward our dog for something or other. When a squirrel ran up her arm folks on the other side of town probably heard her scream. Once the dog recovered his senses, he dutifully dispatched the thief. 
That's when I knew I had to do something more than "trap and release", and since shooting them in the house was out of the question, I turned to a more "organic" approach.
I have read that peppermint oil actually makes squirrels sick but have no way to confirm it.


Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 


-----Original Message----- 

From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: pdqtr6 at comcast.net, levilevi at comcast.net, yellowtr at adelphia.net 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 2020-04-02 8:51:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Shop pests 

Came, knocked down the bird feeder, tore it up, ate the contents, and clawed 
and dented the other bird feeder. Then, as a middle finger to humiliate us, 
dumped the above onto our garden hose. Maybe we'll try the peppermint oil???? 
On April 1, 2020 at 10:55 PMpdqtr6 at comcast.net (mailto:pdqtr6 at comcast.net) 
wrote:


Two years ago I had squirrels living in a space in the attic that only they 
could get to. I tried trapping them in a Havaheart trap then releasing them 4-5 
miles from here. All that did was making room for more of the little pests. I 
finally bought a spray bottle of peppermint oil from Amazon and cut an access 
hole to the squirrel chamber. I liberally sprayed it around. I also soaked 
several cotton balls with the oil and tossed them in too. Finally I covered the 
hole with an electrical outlet cover plate. The squirrels didn't move out 
immediately but were gone within a couple of weeks and so far they haven't 
returned. Much more effective than trapping them and if they do come back all I 
have to do is take the cover plate off and get the peppermint oil out again.

Sent from Xfinity Connect Application 
-----Original Message----- 
From: levilevi at comcast.net (mailto:levilevi at comcast.net) To: 
yellowtr at adelphia.net (mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net) Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: 2020-04-01 8:07:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 
Shop pests
Squirrels are furry rats. They will destroy anything, just ask my buddy Jim
Gray who is busy doing 150 spices on his wiring loom for his tow vehicle. I 
have had them chew up hundreds of dollars of my cedar fence and deck and tear 
up a deck chair just for the hell of it. When they do that shit they become 
expendable. Get a trap (Home Depot) bait it with peanut butter, shoot them with 
an air gun, throw them in a trash bag and then the garbage or they will just 
come back. I have also throw them in the nearest slew to feed the local coyotes 
and foxes.
Ruthless yes, but been burned too many times by being nice to them. I'm a 
farm boy and believe in live and let live up until they don't abide by that 
when there's plenty of things to do and eat than destroy property for no 
reason. Two hundred dollar cedar boards and deck chairs are not food.
Rant off. 
Sent from my Commodore 64 
On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:30 PM, Bob < yellowtr at adelphia.net 
(mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net)> wrote: 
Bill, 
Short of sending them to animal heaven, get a have a heart trap and bait it 
with peanuts. Then take them to the next county and let them go. Using ammo in 
a closed area is not a good idea. You may put holes in your wall. Good luck. 
Save your ammo for other things. Next job is to seal the area where they 
entered. Been there and done that!
Bob 
On 4/1/20 6:19 PM, bill beecher wrote: Help!!! I now have squirrels in the 
shop. Way up in the ridge, about 16? in the air, they are thinking a making 
their home in the wall that separates the shop and the barn.
Short of some .22 bird shot has anyone a suggestion to run them out? I could 
probably spray something up there.
Bill B TS30800L 
?Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......? M.Murphy  ** triumphs at autox.team.net 
(mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html (http://www.team.net/donate.html) 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Apr  4 16:37:14 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 18:37:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] LED Flasher Unit
Message-ID: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>

Can anyone tell me what kind of flasher unit for an LED conversion on a TR3A?  
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sat Apr  4 16:44:19 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 18:44:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Flasher Unit
In-Reply-To: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm using a CEC EF-33RL. Moss has them in either 2 prong or 3 (141-668)
I bought the three prong and it works well. Other sources for this same
flasher are far less expensive than Moss.

Dave

On Sat, Apr 4, 2020, 6:37 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> Can anyone tell me what kind of flasher unit for an LED conversion on a
> TR3A?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr  4 16:47:11 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 17:47:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED Flasher Unit
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>

https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg

 

this has the napa part number

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Saturday, April 4, 2020 5:44 PM
To: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] LED Flasher Unit

 

I'm using a CEC EF-33RL. Moss has them in either 2 prong or 3 (141-668) 

I bought the three prong and it works well. Other sources for this same 

flasher are far less expensive than Moss.

 

Dave

 

On Sat, Apr 4, 2020, 6:37 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> > wrote:

Can anyone tell me what kind of flasher unit for an LED conversion on a TR3A?   

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Apr  4 17:50:31 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 19:50:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Clarification
In-Reply-To: <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>

First, I'm wondering if the choice for flasher may depend on the type of LED conversion (or not).  I did a LiteZupp conversion that calls for a LFM3NG flasher.  This is three prong with one for power, one for blinker, one for the indicator light and a wire coming off for ground.  I managed to bugger up the one I had so need to re-order from LiteZupp, though a more commonly available conversion flasher would be welcome.  

Second, a question.  I'm not getting right directionals to work front or back.  This could be the directional switch on the column, an open wire, or...and here's the question...if an LED is burned out, can it cause both directionals in the circuit to be inoperable?  I've hooked power direct from the battery to both left and right directionals at the point they enter the flasher.  The Left directional lights up front and back.  The Right directional does neither.  

Hoping people are bored enough staying home to help!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

> On April 4, 2020 at 6:47 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg
> 
>      
> 
>     this has the napa part number
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>     Sent: Saturday, April 4, 2020 5:44 PM
>     To: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
>     Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: Re: [TR] LED Flasher Unit
> 
>      
> 
>     I'm using a CEC EF-33RL. Moss has them in either 2 prong or 3 (141-668)
> 
>     I bought the three prong and it works well. Other sources for this same 
> 
>     flasher are far less expensive than Moss.
> 
>      
> 
>     Dave
> 
>      
> 
>     On Sat, Apr 4, 2020, 6:37 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Can anyone tell me what kind of flasher unit for an LED conversion on a TR3A?  
> > 
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> > 
> >     >     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 


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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr  4 18:21:28 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 19:21:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clarification
In-Reply-To: <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>
 <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <007401d60ae0$268b3e20$73a1ba60$@ranteer.com>

It does not matter what LED you use.  But it does matter how the car is wired.  For example, if the car is wired for a left hand circuit and a right hand circuit, if you get a flasher unit that is wired for only a single circuit, that will be a problem.  I am not at all versed on this but I have copied LiteZupp on this and Mike should be able to help you.

 

From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> 
Sent: Saturday, April 4, 2020 6:51 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Clarification

 

First, I'm wondering if the choice for flasher may depend on the type of LED conversion (or not).  I did a LiteZupp conversion that calls for a LFM3NG flasher.  This is three prong with one for power, one for blinker, one for the indicator light and a wire coming off for ground.  I managed to bugger up the one I had so need to re-order from LiteZupp, though a more commonly available conversion flasher would be welcome.   

 

Second, a question.  I'm not getting right directionals to work front or back.  This could be the directional switch on the column, an open wire, or...and here's the question...if an LED is burned out, can it cause both directionals in the circuit to be inoperable?  I've hooked power direct from the battery to both left and right directionals at the point they enter the flasher.  The Left directional lights up front and back.  The Right directional does neither.   

 

Hoping people are bored enough staying home to help! 

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

On April 4, 2020 at 6:47 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> > wrote: 

https://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg

 

this has the napa part number

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Saturday, April 4, 2020 5:44 PM
To: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> >
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [TR] LED Flasher Unit

 

I'm using a CEC EF-33RL. Moss has them in either 2 prong or 3 (141-668) 

I bought the three prong and it works well. Other sources for this same 

flasher are far less expensive than Moss.

 

Dave

 

On Sat, Apr 4, 2020, 6:37 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net> > wrote:

Can anyone tell me what kind of flasher unit for an LED conversion on a TR3A?   

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr  4 21:11:58 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2020 20:11:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Clarification
In-Reply-To: <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>
 <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <EC8C2A8A774949EB9448FA0745305A94@RYPC>


> First, I'm wondering if the choice for flasher may depend on 
> the type of LED conversion (or not). 

Seems unlikely to me.  There isn't all that much difference (electrically)
between different LED conversions.

But since I went with the flasher I had before and dummy loads to make it
work right, I don't know for sure.

> Second, a question.  I'm not getting right directionals to 
> work front or back.  This could be the directional switch on 
> the column, an open wire, or...and here's the question...if 
> an LED is burned out, can it cause both directionals in the 
> circuit to be inoperable? 

It _might_ cause the flasher to not work, there must be some minimum load
below which it won't flash.

> I've hooked power direct from the 
> battery to both left and right directionals at the point they 
> enter the flasher.  The Left directional lights up front and 
> back.  The Right directional does neither.   

I'm not sure I follow you here.  But a simple test is to install a temporary
jumper in place of the flasher, linking the green wire (B terminal on the
flasher) to the green/black wire (L terminal).  That should let each lamp
work (with the key on and the control head switch in the appropriate
position) with no reliance on any other lamp.

Or just look for the green/white wires where they join near the LH horn.
Use a test light or DMM to check for voltage on the GW that comes from the
steering box (again, switches on).  If there is nothing there, the problem
is the GW wire or the control head.

BTW, I put a diagram up at https://i.imgur.com/OvngNNl.jpg that shows the
correct turn wiring for a later left-hand steer TR3A.  I've not seen
anywhere else that has it just right (including the Advance Auto Wire
diagram).  The LHS diagram is also on page 48a of the PDF at
https://tinyurl.com/urhvjbn

-- Randall


From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Apr  6 07:06:16 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 07:06:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
Message-ID: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>

Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart

at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Apr  6 16:27:16 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 18:27:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Clarification
In-Reply-To: <EC8C2A8A774949EB9448FA0745305A94@RYPC>
References: <323509340.176241.1586039834678@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgN8Aq_--u9E7NimJyTv66fo2ohru1Cj+Afj+r1UzK2VQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <006801d60ad2$faa86c40$eff944c0$@ranteer.com>
 <1097106835.177523.1586044231238@connect.xfinity.com>
 <EC8C2A8A774949EB9448FA0745305A94@RYPC>
Message-ID: <1089506699.347645.1586212037718@connect.xfinity.com>

Ach!  All right, I finally put on my trouble shooting hat and went into it.  Looks like the original 1959 control head isn't letting the power through to the lamps.  My fault.  Because I needed the garage to rebuild a '53 Ford Tractor, I left the Triumph outside under a tarp all winter...albeit with a wedge of mothballs both under the car and under the brake pedals.  Pulled it from its slumber this week and found mold on the underside of the tonneau cover and a film of surface rust on the bonnet rode and asundry other places I hadn't seen it before when stored in the garage. My sense is, the predisposition to corrosion that had always been present, went wild under the tarp outside this winter.  Anyway, I didn't feel like taking the control head apart in order to sand off any corrosion that was causing the directional signals not to work, so ordered a new one (on sale now at TRF) from the Roadster Factory.  

Randall, thank you again for your always pragmatic and data driven analysis.  

Good news, field mice didn't eat anything on the car this time.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

\
> On April 4, 2020 at 11:11 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > First, I'm wondering if the choice for flasher may depend on 
> > the type of LED conversion (or not). 
> 
> Seems unlikely to me.  There isn't all that much difference (electrically)
> between different LED conversions.
> 
> But since I went with the flasher I had before and dummy loads to make it
> work right, I don't know for sure.
> 
> > Second, a question.  I'm not getting right directionals to 
> > work front or back.  This could be the directional switch on 
> > the column, an open wire, or...and here's the question...if 
> > an LED is burned out, can it cause both directionals in the 
> > circuit to be inoperable? 
> 
> It _might_ cause the flasher to not work, there must be some minimum load
> below which it won't flash.
> 
> > I've hooked power direct from the 
> > battery to both left and right directionals at the point they 
> > enter the flasher.  The Left directional lights up front and 
> > back.  The Right directional does neither.   
> 
> I'm not sure I follow you here.  But a simple test is to install a temporary
> jumper in place of the flasher, linking the green wire (B terminal on the
> flasher) to the green/black wire (L terminal).  That should let each lamp
> work (with the key on and the control head switch in the appropriate
> position) with no reliance on any other lamp.
> 
> Or just look for the green/white wires where they join near the LH horn.
> Use a test light or DMM to check for voltage on the GW that comes from the
> steering box (again, switches on).  If there is nothing there, the problem
> is the GW wire or the control head.
> 
> BTW, I put a diagram up at https://i.imgur.com/OvngNNl.jpg that shows the
> correct turn wiring for a later left-hand steer TR3A.  I've not seen
> anywhere else that has it just right (including the Advance Auto Wire
> diagram).  The LHS diagram is also on page 48a of the PDF at
> https://tinyurl.com/urhvjbn
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Apr  6 20:47:43 2020
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 21:47:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
In-Reply-To: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>
References: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <c5ae0b45-adf5-d66d-9ad7-a086902126dc@tonydrews.com>

Wow.

That

was

awesome!

Thanks so much for sharing.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 4/6/2020 8:06 AM, David P wrote:
> Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if 
> you're a Trek fan..? I happened to idolize Moss, and was very 
> fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. 
> I felt just like Stewart
>
> at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW
>
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs 
>
>

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Mon Apr  6 22:00:11 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 21:00:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
In-Reply-To: <c5ae0b45-adf5-d66d-9ad7-a086902126dc@tonydrews.com>
References: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>
 <c5ae0b45-adf5-d66d-9ad7-a086902126dc@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <1407597918.1375537.1586232012413@connect.xfinity.com>

Indeed.  Thank you for sharing.  
Dave H.
> On April 6, 2020 at 7:47 PM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Wow.
> 
> That
> 
> was
> 
> awesome!
> 
> Thanks so much for sharing.
> 
> Regards, Tony Drews
> 
> On 4/6/2020 8:06 AM, David P wrote:
> > Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if 
> > you're a Trek fan..? I happened to idolize Moss, and was very 
> > fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. 
> > I felt just like Stewart
> >
> > at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs 
> >
> >
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net

From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Apr  7 08:15:20 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 10:15:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pipers
Message-ID: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where
phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would
assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo,
I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Apr  7 08:34:12 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 08:34:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question..
Message-ID: <a6cc8911-106c-d064-0793-635ffb1e38a9@porterscustom.com>

Do the seat fore/aft levers go inboard or outboard? and are the seat 
rake knobs? pretty sure my upholstery shop has them all wrong... help 
please. dp


-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Apr  7 08:41:27 2020
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 09:41:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>

Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his
Powder Blue TR3.


On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

> A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where
> phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would
> assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo,
> I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.
>
>
>
> Keith Stewart
>
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 08:56:36 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 14:56:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1635401946.1312883.1586271396853@mail.yahoo.com>

 Boy.? This Stay at Home thing must have made for a lot of spare time.
;-)
 
Dave 

Thanks.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 9:41 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his Powder Blue TR3.

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 09:06:25 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 15:06:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Question..
In-Reply-To: <a6cc8911-106c-d064-0793-635ffb1e38a9@porterscustom.com>
References: <a6cc8911-106c-d064-0793-635ffb1e38a9@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <867418145.1300882.1586271985770@mail.yahoo.com>

 What car?? On the TR6, as with most cars with adjustable rake, the adjust lever is toward the outside of the car.? As I recall, the fore/aft adjust lever is on the right regardless of which seat it is since that is the same part used in both places.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 9:34 am
Subject: [TR] Question..

Do the seat fore/aft levers go inboard or outboard? and are the seat 
rake knobs? pretty sure my upholstery shop has them all wrong... help 
please. dp


-- 

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 09:14:04 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 09:14:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>

I think Dave told me this one when we caravanned together to VTR2000 in Portland Oregan.
If you look up the word consideration in the dictionary it says, "someone who knows how to play the bagpipes, but doesn't ." 


 

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:41 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his Powder Blue TR3.
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>> A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Keith Stewart
>> 
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 09:21:11 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 15:21:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <391603786.1248569.1586272871157@mail.yahoo.com>

 OK, remember, you started it.
Why does a piper walk when he plays?He's trying to get away from the noise.
How can you tell if a bagpipe is out of tune?Someone is blowing into it.

Why does a piper walk when he plays?He knows a moving target is harder to hit.
I can go on.

Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 10:14 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

I think Dave told me this one when we caravanned together to VTR2000 in Portland Oregan.If you look up the word consideration in the dictionary it says, "someone who knows how to play the bagpipes, but doesn't ."?

?

Sent from my Commodore 64
On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:41 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:


Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his Powder Blue TR3.

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com



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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Apr  7 09:39:30 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 11:39:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>

? Well that does not apply to our Dave. As I said before, he is a Rock-Star ? probably suffering financially now that all his performances have been cancelled or postponed. ?

 

From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> 
Sent: April 7, 2020 11:14 AM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

 

I think Dave told me this one when we caravanned together to VTR2000 in Portland Oregan.

If you look up the word consideration in the dictionary it says, "someone who knows how to play the bagpipes, but doesn't ." 

 

 

 

Sent from my Commodore 64


On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:41 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > wrote:

Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his Powder Blue TR3.

  <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DncfrBK/0/2de50f9e/X5/i-DncfrBK-X5.jpg> 

 

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Apr  7 09:39:39 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 09:39:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
Message-ID: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>

These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down 
lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. 
Any help appreciated... dp

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Apr  7 10:59:17 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 11:59:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
 <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <003b01d60cfd$e07d3710$a177a530$@ranteer.com>

How do you make a chainsaw sound like bagpipes?

 

 

Add vibrato

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, April 7, 2020 10:40 AM
To: 'Bud Rolofson' <levilevi at comcast.net>; 'Don Hiscock' <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

 

? Well that does not apply to our Dave. As I said before, he is a Rock-Star ? probably suffering financially now that all his performances have been cancelled or postponed. ?

 

From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net <mailto:levilevi at comcast.net> > 
Sent: April 7, 2020 11:14 AM
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> >
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> >; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

 

I think Dave told me this one when we caravanned together to VTR2000 in Portland Oregan.

If you look up the word consideration in the dictionary it says, "someone who knows how to play the bagpipes, but doesn't ." 

 

 

 

Sent from my Commodore 64


On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:41 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > wrote:

Another one of our piping correspondent Dave, at the 2014 SLABCS with his Powder Blue TR3.

  <https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DncfrBK/0/2de50f9e/X5/i-DncfrBK-X5.jpg> 

 

On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  7 11:06:20 2020
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 17:06:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
In-Reply-To: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
References: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <367282483.2034677.1586279180884@mail.yahoo.com>

 Michael-
I believe these seats are shown at the bottom of the page.
http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/tc/full.aspx?Page=45

Chad.??
    On Tuesday, April 7, 2020, 12:04:20 PM CDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
 These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down 
lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. 
Any help appreciated... dp

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Apr  7 11:29:52 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 11:29:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
In-Reply-To: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
References: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <e05d5245-7095-7c30-4ddb-338dd004708c@porterscustom.com>

never mind... they are

https://mossmotors.com/suffolk-seat-assemblies   For an MGB... pricey!



On 4/7/2020 9:39 AM, David P wrote:
> These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down 
> lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. 
> Any help appreciated... dp
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 11:30:01 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 10:30:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
In-Reply-To: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
References: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <463997B7-D5BA-4DED-8E49-726DA4283FC6@comcast.net>

MossMotors TR250 & TR6

TR6 1970-72
page: A9?The seat has two handles at the side.
One is for adjusting angle of the seat back and the other
to allow the seat to fold forward to allow access to the ?back seats?

I would check with your supplier ? looks like the wrong seat.

TR6 1973-76 do not show any handles.

Just my two cents?or $634.00


> On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:39 AM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. Any help appreciated... dp
> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> 
> <IMG_7739.JPG><IMG_7740.JPG><IMG_7741.JPG><IMG_7742.JPG>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net

Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 12:15:48 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:15:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
 <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <2026758378.1314470.1586283348836@mail.yahoo.com>

 On the other hand, there are savings to be had:
  
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
To: 'Bud Rolofson' <levilevi at comcast.net>; 'Don Hiscock' <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 10:43 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

#yiv8793831979 #yiv8793831979 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv8793831979 #yiv8793831979 p.yiv8793831979MsoNormal, #yiv8793831979 li.yiv8793831979MsoNormal, #yiv8793831979 div.yiv8793831979MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv8793831979 a:link, #yiv8793831979 span.yiv8793831979MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv8793831979 .yiv8793831979MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {} #yiv8793831979 div.yiv8793831979WordSection1 {} #yiv8793831979 ? Well that does not apply to our Dave. As I said before, he is a Rock-Star ? probably suffering financially now that all his performances have been cancelled or postponed. ? ?
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 12:23:24 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:23:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <003b01d60cfd$e07d3710$a177a530$@ranteer.com>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
 <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
 <003b01d60cfd$e07d3710$a177a530$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <2110203039.1358317.1586283804561@mail.yahoo.com>

 What's the difference between a chainsaw and a bagpipe?

A chainsaw has dynamic range.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 12:00 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

#yiv0073458874 #yiv0073458874 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv0073458874 #yiv0073458874 p.yiv0073458874MsoNormal, #yiv0073458874 li.yiv0073458874MsoNormal, #yiv0073458874 div.yiv0073458874MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv0073458874 a:link, #yiv0073458874 span.yiv0073458874MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0073458874 span.yiv0073458874EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv0073458874 .yiv0073458874MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {} #yiv0073458874 div.yiv0073458874WordSection1 {} #yiv0073458874 How do you make a chainsaw sound like bagpipes? ? ?Add vibrato ?
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 12:26:58 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:26:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
In-Reply-To: <e05d5245-7095-7c30-4ddb-338dd004708c@porterscustom.com>
References: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
 <e05d5245-7095-7c30-4ddb-338dd004708c@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1896200378.1397376.1586284018844@mail.yahoo.com>

 But, are they comfortable?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat ID?

never mind... they are

https://mossmotors.com/suffolk-seat-assemblies ? For an MGB... pricey!



On 4/7/2020 9:39 AM, David P wrote:
> These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down 
> lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. 
> Any help appreciated... dp
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Apr  7 12:28:36 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 14:28:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <2026758378.1314470.1586283348836@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
 <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
 <2026758378.1314470.1586283348836@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02a901d60d0a$5a2cfc60$0e86f520$@bell.net>

I love it. Can?t tell from the small image, but that sure looks like a Stewart Tartan.

 

Keith STEWART

 

From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: April 7, 2020 2:16 PM
To: keithstewart at bell.net; levilevi at comcast.net; don.hiscock at gmail.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

 

On the other hand, there are savings to be had:

 



 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> >
To: 'Bud Rolofson' <levilevi at comcast.net <mailto:levilevi at comcast.net> >; 'Don Hiscock' <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> >
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 10:43 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

? Well that does not apply to our Dave. As I said before, he is a Rock-Star ? probably suffering financially now that all his performances have been cancelled or postponed. ?

 

 

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 12:31:22 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:31:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Seat ID?
In-Reply-To: <463997B7-D5BA-4DED-8E49-726DA4283FC6@comcast.net>
References: <28c5a26e-f54f-aaf9-8943-c54984ea2c96@porterscustom.com>
 <463997B7-D5BA-4DED-8E49-726DA4283FC6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <258241128.1411824.1586284282992@mail.yahoo.com>

 Do you have a part number?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat ID?

MossMotors TR250 & TR6

TR6 1970-72
page: A9?The seat has two handles at the side.
One is for adjusting angle of the seat back and the other
to allow the seat to fold forward to allow access to the ?back seats?

I would check with your supplier ? looks like the wrong seat.

TR6 1973-76 do not show any handles.

Just my two cents?or $634.00


> On Apr 7, 2020, at 8:39 AM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> These are in a '72 TR6. They have a round rake adj. knob? No fold down lever and the fore aft levers don't look like conventional TR levers.. Any help appreciated... dp
> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> 
> <IMG_7739.JPG><IMG_7740.JPG><IMG_7741.JPG><IMG_7742.JPG>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr  7 12:37:16 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:37:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <02a901d60d0a$5a2cfc60$0e86f520$@bell.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFA6cvjFcA0fHbD06vmBJy9z70YHX-zauVspT30tNqd2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <4F0662D2-B384-4BA4-825C-6866847715F0@comcast.net>
 <021e01d60cf2$baa6c980$2ff45c80$@bell.net>
 <2026758378.1314470.1586283348836@mail.yahoo.com>
 <02a901d60d0a$5a2cfc60$0e86f520$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <1599089898.1378724.1586284636961@mail.yahoo.com>

 Probably.? That's the default tartan when in doubt.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
To: 'DAVID MASSEY' <dave1massey at cs.com>; levilevi <levilevi at comcast.net>; don.hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 1:28 pm
Subject: RE: [TR] Pipers

#yiv4759413193 #yiv4759413193 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv4759413193 #yiv4759413193 p.yiv4759413193MsoNormal, #yiv4759413193 li.yiv4759413193MsoNormal, #yiv4759413193 div.yiv4759413193MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv4759413193 a:link, #yiv4759413193 span.yiv4759413193MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv4759413193 span.yiv4759413193EmailStyle26 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv4759413193 .yiv4759413193MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {} #yiv4759413193 div.yiv4759413193WordSection1 {} #yiv4759413193 I love it. Can?t tell from the small image, but that sure looks like a Stewart Tartan. ?Keith STEWART ?From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: April 7, 2020 2:16 PM
To: keithstewart at bell.net; levilevi at comcast.net; don.hiscock at gmail.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers ?On the other hand, there are savings to be had: ? ?Dave  ? ?-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
To: 'Bud Rolofson' <levilevi at comcast.net>; 'Don Hiscock' <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 10:43 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers? Well that does not apply to our Dave. As I said before, he is a Rock-Star ? probably suffering financially now that all his performances have been cancelled or postponed. ?? ?
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr  7 14:15:13 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 16:15:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <005901d60d19$3f4d91c0$bde8b540$@charter.net>

Scroll down through the attached link. We have used a piper to send of the
Connecticut Reliability Run for two years. The piper was Jonathan Henken.

 

 <https://ctriumph.wordpress.com/971-2/>
https://ctriumph.wordpress.com/971-2/ 

 

Alex Thomson

Conn. Triumph Register

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith
Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2020 10:15 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Pipers

 

A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where
phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would
assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo,
I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 16:46:43 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 18:46:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Buggers.  I give up!
Message-ID: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>

This should be easy, since I've done it before, but...it's been 15 years.

I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their adapter kit.  In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion.

I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car.

I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the control head when the new one comes in.

Anybody remember?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS58667
New Hampshire

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From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Apr  7 17:00:01 2020
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 19:00:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Buggers. I give up!
In-Reply-To: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1189888579.404959.1586300401767@myemail.cox.net>

Well if your talking about removing the steering wheel and adapter, its really straight forward. Pry off the horn button (should pop of pretty easily), this will expose the large nut that holds the adapter on. Remove the nut and with a steering wheel puller, (or large gear puller) pull the adapter and wheel off...


> On April 7, 2020 at 6:46 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>     This should be easy, since I've done it before, but...it's been 15 years.
> 
>     I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their adapter kit.  In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion.
> 
>     I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car.
> 
>     I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the control head when the new one comes in.
> 
>     Anybody remember?  
> 
>     Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS58667
>     New Hampshire
> 
> 
 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net
> 
 
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  7 17:33:45 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 23:33:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Buggers.  I give up!
In-Reply-To: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <995861662.1487245.1586302425717@mail.yahoo.com>

 if i remember .... fat chance
you remove or un-tighten the 3 grub screws on the adapter.that release the control head. you can pull the head out..toward you.depending on how you did yours.i seem to recall somehow i slotted something so i could get a socket on the mail nut holding the wheel without disconnecting the wires.i think maybe i just took the control head apart and left the 4 wires hanging while i did it.
start with the 3 grub screws just like on the original steering wheel.?





    On Tuesday, April 7, 2020, 03:47:04 PM PDT, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
    This should be easy, since I've done it before, but...it's been 15 years.   
   I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their adapter kit.? In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion.   
   I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car.   
   I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the control head when the new one comes in.   
   Anybody remember???   
   Terry Smith, '59 TR3A? TS58667   New Hampshire   
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr  7 17:59:25 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 16:59:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Buggers.  I give up!
In-Reply-To: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CA72D6C0D3354440874B06017B148B6D@RYPC>

Check on the back of the hub; I think there should be at least one (and
maybe 2 or 3) set screws in the hub that lock the control head to the wheel.

There's a photo at https://is.gd/cF9ux0 that shows the head of the screw
plus another at https://is.gd/j7zogA that shows how the screw comes out
inside the hub.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 


> I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their 
> adapter kit.  In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much 
> like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion. 
> 
> I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car. 
> 
> I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence 
> how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the 
> control head when the new one comes in. 
> 
> Anybody remember?   
> 
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS58667
> New Hampshire 
> 
> 


From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Apr  7 18:50:39 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 20:50:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Buggers. I give up!
In-Reply-To: <CA72D6C0D3354440874B06017B148B6D@RYPC>
References: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CA72D6C0D3354440874B06017B148B6D@RYPC>
Message-ID: <2130397994.371151.1586307039584@connect.xfinity.com>

Ahah!  I see them now.  Three little inset screws.  TOok them out and the control head pulls away.  Tomorrow I'll disconnect the wires, attach them to a steel wire so's to have a way to draw the new wiring harnes through the column, and pull the thing out.  

Thank you, everyone.

Terry


> On April 7, 2020 at 7:59 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Check on the back of the hub; I think there should be at least one (and
> maybe 2 or 3) set screws in the hub that lock the control head to the wheel.
> 
> There's a photo at https://is.gd/cF9ux0 that shows the head of the screw
> plus another at https://is.gd/j7zogA that shows how the screw comes out
> inside the hub.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
> 
> > I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their 
> > adapter kit.  In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much 
> > like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion. 
> > 
> > I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car. 
> > 
> > I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence 
> > how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the 
> > control head when the new one comes in. 
> > 
> > Anybody remember?   
> > 
> > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS58667
> > New Hampshire 
> > 
> > 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Tue Apr  7 22:45:12 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2020 21:45:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Buggers.  I give up!
In-Reply-To: <CA72D6C0D3354440874B06017B148B6D@RYPC>
References: <1185076008.262551.1586299604927@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CA72D6C0D3354440874B06017B148B6D@RYPC>
Message-ID: <000201d60d60$7e6afa90$7b40efb0$@cox.net>


Undo the "olive nut" at the end of the steering box at the dirty end.  Then
undo the grub screws at the steering wheel.  Unhook the 4 wires that go
through the steering shaft, somewhere near the horn on the driver side, a
long way from the end of the shaft and the olive nut. 

With help, carefully withdraw the control head from the driver side , it
will come free with the hollow steering tube connected to the control head.
Haven't seen one that isn't seized together yet.    You can do it alone, but
easy with 2 people, the solid part it is 5' long in total, 8' including the
wires with bullets. (+/-)

This will expose the nut holding the wheel onto the steering column.

Undo the nut, then if necessary, apply a puller to extract the wheel from
the column.

Putting back is the reverse.  Although I suggest thoroughly checking the
condition of the wires, and it is a 5# tube with 10# of stuff in it.


-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, April 7, 2020 4:59 PM
To: 'triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Buggers. I give up!

Check on the back of the hub; I think there should be at least one (and
maybe 2 or 3) set screws in the hub that lock the control head to the wheel.

There's a photo at https://is.gd/cF9ux0 that shows the head of the screw
plus another at https://is.gd/j7zogA that shows how the screw comes out
inside the hub.

-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 


> I replaced the stock steering wheel with a MotoLita and their 
> adapter kit.  In fact, my dash and cockpit looks pretty much 
> like they show on page 67 of their TR3 Glove Box Companion. 
> 
> I know I put them on the car, because...well...they're on the car. 
> 
> I can't for the life of me remember how they went on, hence 
> how to get the friggin' thing off so's to swap out the 
> control head when the new one comes in. 
> 
> Anybody remember?   
> 
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS58667
> New Hampshire 
> 
> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr at cox.net


From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Apr  8 05:25:11 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:25:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pipers
In-Reply-To: <005901d60d19$3f4d91c0$bde8b540$@charter.net>
References: <019d01d60ce6$f8f18ec0$ead4ac40$@bell.net>
 <005901d60d19$3f4d91c0$bde8b540$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <247441485.1593625.1586345111413@mail.yahoo.com>

 Nice beard.? I could never grow anything that bushy.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 7, 2020 3:15 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Pipers

#yiv3270522315 #yiv3270522315 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv3270522315 #yiv3270522315 p.yiv3270522315MsoNormal, #yiv3270522315 li.yiv3270522315MsoNormal, #yiv3270522315 div.yiv3270522315MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;} #yiv3270522315 a:link, #yiv3270522315 span.yiv3270522315MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3270522315 a:visited, #yiv3270522315 span.yiv3270522315MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3270522315 span.yiv3270522315EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;} #yiv3270522315 span.yiv3270522315EmailStyle18 {color:#1F497D;} #yiv3270522315 .yiv3270522315MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {} #yiv3270522315 div.yiv3270522315WordSection1 {} #yiv3270522315 Scroll down through the attached link. We have used a piper to send of the Connecticut Reliability Run for two years. The piper was Jonathan Henken. ?https://ctriumph.wordpress.com/971-2/  ?Alex ThomsonConn. Triumph Register ?From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2020 10:15 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Pipers ?A few weeks ago, there was discussion about taking a TR event where phenomenal bagpipe playing (piping-but if I used that word first, you would assume fuel or brake lines) was offered. While searching for another photo, I came across this one that features said piper. Rock on Mr. Massey. ?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net ?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From coefront at shaw.ca  Wed Apr  8 07:16:12 2020
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 07:16:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 84
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8.1586196002.20527.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8.1586196002.20527.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <62C29018-453F-497B-92F7-27DC95AE1B43@shaw.ca>


Being born / raised in England until age 18 upon immigration to Canada, I was very privileged to see Sir Sterling race at his young age. Quite the Lad! 


> On Apr 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Sir Stirling..very nice video (David P)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2020 07:06:16 -0600
> From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> To: "Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
> Message-ID: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884 at porterscustom.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart
> 
> at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs
> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 84
> ****************************************


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 07:49:13 2020
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 08:49:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
In-Reply-To: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>
References: <9625a647-2bac-fbf4-03ed-3669cb778884@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBQ_epYw-wCV43HB46XMZE81X39_22Z5v7TXDE7mySzwA@mail.gmail.com>

Never got to see Stirling race, but did see him take a parade lap at the
Goodwood Revival in 2015 as a passenger of Ross Brawn, who now owns the
Ferrari 250 GT SWB Moss won in three times, including the 1960 Goodwood
TT.  He's one of the greatest.



Apologies for the poorly framed photo, but it's the one with the best view
in the cabin, showing driver and passenger.

On Mon, Apr 6, 2020 at 8:06 AM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

> Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're
> a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a
> day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart
>
> at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW
>
>
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 14:20:24 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (anabil007)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 13:20:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBQ_epYw-wCV43HB46XMZE81X39_22Z5v7TXDE7mySzwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFBQ_epYw-wCV43HB46XMZE81X39_22Z5v7TXDE7mySzwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <31AAC2E3-E42F-4830-90A3-C61F26F8D98A@comcast.net>

We were privileged to meet Sterling Moss in Hawaii in 1960...after an invitation from the dealership we had bought our Alfa Romeo Sprint Veloce (really miss that car)...and watched him blow the engine of a Jaguar Mark 7...big sedan! Coming out of the first curve on Lavont corner   2008. Goodwood Revial.

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 12:52:49 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 14:52:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
Message-ID: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>

It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.

My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.  

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?    

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


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From pryner at outlook.com  Thu Apr  9 13:00:17 2020
From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 19:00:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <BN3PR04MB2244B10AB0FF1D90CA9DB1A7DEC10@BN3PR04MB2244.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I?ve found about what I needed on ebay and Amazon.  Ebay normally has a seller that will have smaller lots.  Other than that I haven?t found a source on line anywhere.  The one?s that will sell small lots charge an awful lot for shipping.
Just my $.02
Pete

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 2:53 PM
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!

It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.

My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Apr  9 13:01:18 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:01:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <970e264a-5deb-0d2e-9475-2ae1720a20f9@adelphia.net>

Terry,

I always used McMaster for all my restoration needs. Their prices are 
really great. I do have lots of left over nuts and bolts but if you go 
to Lowes and do the unit pricing you may pay the same but not have any 
spares. And with other projects in the past, having fresh new nuts and 
bolts came in handy. I know this is not the answer you are looking for, 
just my experience.

I doubt any other on-line service allows what Lowes does, just order the 
number you need.

Bob

On 4/9/20 2:52 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the 
> house for obvious reasons.? So instead of running to the hardware 
> store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm 
> having to look at what I can order online.
>
> My first thought was McMaster-Carr.? Found what I need, but I don't 
> need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.? What I need are four to eight 
> of various sizes and threads.
>
> Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From stan at redtr6.com  Thu Apr  9 13:10:33 2020
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 19:10:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR05MB69892246768545E586A03236FEC10@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I have bought fasteners from Bolt Depot https://www.boltdepot.com/ and Albany County Fasteners https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/

As usual the cost of shipping will exceed the cost of the parts for small quantities.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 2:53 PM
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!

It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.

My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire


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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Apr  9 13:18:43 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:18:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <004c01d60ea3$af26ebf0$0d74c3d0$@charter.net>

I have always had great luck with the Nutty Company in Connecticut. (yeah, I know ? we?re nuts to live in CT.) They will sell you any quantity you want.

 

https://www.nutty.com/

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2020 2:53 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!

 

It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online. 

 

My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.   

 

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?     

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

 

 

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Apr  9 13:29:49 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:29:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <970e264a-5deb-0d2e-9475-2ae1720a20f9@adelphia.net>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <970e264a-5deb-0d2e-9475-2ae1720a20f9@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhK61KxpPpgdXBCQMZvia-hqZkgA0-Rc=qpztot8X3mnQ@mail.gmail.com>

Terry ;

Ever tried J.L. Jack?

David

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020, 3:08 PM Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Terry,
>
> I always used McMaster for all my restoration needs. Their prices are
> really great. I do have lots of left over nuts and bolts but if you go to
> Lowes and do the unit pricing you may pay the same but not have any spares.
> And with other projects in the past, having fresh new nuts and bolts came
> in handy. I know this is not the answer you are looking for, just my
> experience.
>
> I doubt any other on-line service allows what Lowes does, just order the
> number you need.
>
> Bob
> On 4/9/20 2:52 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
>
> It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house
> for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick
> up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at
> what I can order online.
>
> My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need
> 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of
> various sizes and threads.
>
> Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From nogera at hotmail.com  Thu Apr  9 13:35:37 2020
From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 19:35:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <SN6PR17MB2223171525EE0B9A24E2DC80DFC10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

You might want to check, my local Hardware store will take a order over the phone, one bolt or a full lawnmower, pay with credit card and drive to the store, they will bring your order to the car.

Bob Nogueira

On Apr 9, 2020, at 1:53 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

threads.

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Apr  9 13:54:27 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 15:54:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <561778434.237199.1586462067577@connect.xfinity.com>

Thanks, everyone.  I checked out a number of online places and liked The Nutty Company.  As some of you recommended, buying in quantities larger than I needed was much cheaper than the per unit cost at the local hardware store.  

Terry



> On April 9, 2020 at 2:52 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>     It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.
> 
>     My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.  
> 
>     Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?    
> 
>     Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>     New Hampshire
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr  9 14:07:44 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 14:07:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <561778434.237199.1586462067577@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <561778434.237199.1586462067577@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <ce9361fa-db89-143b-23f2-8d9f84e04368@bradakis.com>

On 4/9/20 1:54 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> Thanks, everyone.? I checked out a number of online places and liked 
> The Nutty Company.? As some of you recommended, buying in quantities 
> larger than I needed was much cheaper than the per unit cost at the 
> local hardware store.
>
> Terry
>
Haven't purchased for a while, but as I recall a box of say, 100 3/8-24 
nylon lock nuts from a local fastener supply store was about the same 
price as two little plastic 4 count bags from the big box home 
improvement places.? I think I may have gotten lots of stuff from a 
place in California called Coast Fabrication or something, as well as 
Aircraft Spruce.

mjb.



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  9 14:09:43 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2020 20:09:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <970e264a-5deb-0d2e-9475-2ae1720a20f9@adelphia.net>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <970e264a-5deb-0d2e-9475-2ae1720a20f9@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <287559888.2229162.1586462983849@mail.yahoo.com>

 and the quality of McMaster is so much more than the Chinese imports of the local box stores
    On Thursday, April 9, 2020, 12:08:53 PM PDT, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:  
 
  
Terry,
 
I always used McMaster for all my restoration needs. Their prices are really great. I do have lots of left over nuts and bolts but if you go to Lowes and do the unit pricing you may pay the same but not have any spares. And with other projects in the past, having fresh new nuts and bolts came in handy. I know this is not the answer you are looking for, just my experience.
 
I doubt any other on-line service allows what Lowes does, just order the number you need. 
 
 
Bob
 
 On 4/9/20 2:52 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
  
 
 It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.? So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.   
   My first thought was McMaster-Carr.? Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.? What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.??   
   Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?? ??   
   Terry Smith, '59 TR3A   New Hampshire   
   
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Apr 10 06:28:40 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 08:28:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolts:  This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>

Terry ? Here?s a question. What kind of a machine are you restoring? I have found that sometimes unusual hardware, such as metric carriage bolts, is relatively inexpensive from the machine dealer. I do mean sometimes! Other times, it seems like legalized extortion. For many years, I was always of the opinion that I would buy box quantities of whatever I needed since it was about 60% of the individual cost. Maybe not for things such as cylinder head bolts but for common 3/8? x 4? and other sizes that you might use for hay wagon construction and other farm construction was a no-brainer. An auction at an iron working shop 30 years ago (structural steel erection) provided me with about 1000 lbs. or more of ?, 7/8, 1, 1 ?, and 1 ?? bolts of various lengths for $250 ? that was a steal. These days, I admit, I think twice before buying large quantities of fasteners. McMaster-Carr is very inexpensive for a lot of things. Special sized snap rings are about a tenth of the cost from Deere. O-rings are the same way. A package of 100 from McMaster costs about the same as a package of 10 from Motion Industries after you look at some of the crazy shipping prices.

 

Alex Thomson

2 Triumphs

About 8 Deeres ? 1939 ? 2008

1 Case

1 Farmall

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2020 2:53 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!

 

It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online. 

 

My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.   

 

Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?     

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

 

 

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Apr 10 08:14:55 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 10:14:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>

Ah, the tractor is a 1953 Ford Jubilee.  Chose it because, like the Triumph, most all parts are available after market, and those few that aren't are available used. The attached photo is after rebuilding the carb, engine and transmission, re-assembling them all, sand blasting and applying the first coat of paint (needed two) using the inexpensive but actually pretty terrific Harbor Freight spray gun.  We have 38 acres here, about 25 of which we can't access because of a stream that intersects the property.  I can cross it with a tractor, though.  Lots of firewood down out there.  

And I thought the TR3 was simple to work on....  

> On April 10, 2020 at 8:28 AM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Terry ? Here?s a question. What kind of a machine are you restoring? I have found that sometimes unusual hardware, such as metric carriage bolts, is relatively inexpensive from the machine dealer. I do mean sometimes! Other times, it seems like legalized extortion. For many years, I was always of the opinion that I would buy box quantities of whatever I needed since it was about 60% of the individual cost. Maybe not for things such as cylinder head bolts but for common 3/8? x 4? and other sizes that you might use for hay wagon construction and other farm construction was a no-brainer. An auction at an iron working shop 30 years ago (structural steel erection) provided me with about 1000 lbs. or more of ?, 7/8, 1, 1 ?, and 1 ?? bolts of various lengths for $250 ? that was a steal. These days, I admit, I think twice before buying large quantities of fasteners. McMaster-Carr is very inexpensive for a lot of things. Special sized snap rings are about a tenth of the cost from Deere. O-rings are the same way. A package of 100 from McMaster costs about the same as a package of 10 from Motion Industries after you look at some of the crazy shipping prices.
> 
>      
> 
>     Alex Thomson
> 
>     2 Triumphs
> 
>     About 8 Deeres ? 1939 ? 2008
> 
>     1 Case
> 
>     1 Farmall
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
>     Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2020 2:53 PM
>     To: triumphs
>     Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
> 
>      
> 
>     It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.
> 
>      
> 
>     My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.  
> 
>      
> 
>     Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?    
> 
>      
> 
>     Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> 
>     New Hampshire
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 


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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Fri Apr 10 13:22:22 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 19:22:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
 <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

I?m a two-cylinder John Deere fan, myself, and hope to own a 50 or a 520/530 one day, if SWMBO allows it.

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 9:15 AM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!

Ah, the tractor is a 1953 Ford Jubilee.  Chose it because, like the Triumph, most all parts are available after market, and those few that aren't are available used. The attached photo is after rebuilding the carb, engine and transmission, re-assembling them all, sand blasting and applying the first coat of paint (needed two) using the inexpensive but actually pretty terrific Harbor Freight spray gun.  We have 38 acres here, about 25 of which we can't access because of a stream that intersects the property.  I can cross it with a tractor, though.  Lots of firewood down out there.

And I thought the TR3 was simple to work on....
On April 10, 2020 at 8:28 AM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net<mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net>> wrote:

Terry ? Here?s a question. What kind of a machine are you restoring? I have found that sometimes unusual hardware, such as metric carriage bolts, is relatively inexpensive from the machine dealer. I do mean sometimes! Other times, it seems like legalized extortion. For many years, I was always of the opinion that I would buy box quantities of whatever I needed since it was about 60% of the individual cost. Maybe not for things such as cylinder head bolts but for common 3/8? x 4? and other sizes that you might use for hay wagon construction and other farm construction was a no-brainer. An auction at an iron working shop 30 years ago (structural steel erection) provided me with about 1000 lbs. or more of ?, 7/8, 1, 1 ?, and 1 ?? bolts of various lengths for $250 ? that was a steal. These days, I admit, I think twice before buying large quantities of fasteners. McMaster-Carr is very inexpensive for a lot of things. Special sized snap rings are about a tenth of the cost from Deere. O-rings are the same way. A package of 100 from McMaster costs about the same as a package of 10 from Motion Industries after you look at some of the crazy shipping prices.



Alex Thomson

2 Triumphs

About 8 Deeres ? 1939 ? 2008

1 Case

1 Farmall



From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2020 2:53 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!



It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at what I can order online.



My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of various sizes and threads.



Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire






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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 10 13:37:42 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 12:37:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
 <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <AFE8D555944149399A77557E98A4CF6F@RYPC>

I've actually got one of each (more or less).  Deere "styled" A I inherited
from my Mom




And an actual, made-in-Coventry Ferguson with the Standard engine  (Ignore
the stickers and colors, a bad previous restoration attempt)



 
On the nuts & bolts issue, I don't mind buying a box to get just a few.
Might never need another one, but sometimes I find a use.  And every trip to
the store I can save is a win as far as I'm concerned.  Especially since
it's over 30 miles from where the tractors are, to the nearest decent
hardware store. 



-- Randall

> I'm a two-cylinder John Deere fan, myself, and hope to own a
> 50 or a 520/530 one day, if SWMBO allows it.
> 

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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Fri Apr 10 13:50:11 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 19:50:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <AFE8D555944149399A77557E98A4CF6F@RYPC>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
 <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <AFE8D555944149399A77557E98A4CF6F@RYPC>
Message-ID: <DM6PR11MB39482BE7E91C356821CECA1FA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Very nice! I spent many happy hours on my dairy farming ex-father-in-law's 520 and 630, back in the day.  Simple machines and very reliable.

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 2:38 PM
To: 'triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!


I've actually got one of each (more or less).  Deere "styled" A I inherited from my Mom

[cid:image001.jpg at 01D60F47.543F5660]

And an actual, made-in-Coventry Ferguson with the Standard engine  (Ignore the stickers and colors, a bad previous restoration attempt)

[cid:image002.jpg at 01D60F47.543F5660]

On the nuts & bolts issue, I don't mind buying a box to get just a few.  Might never need another one, but sometimes I find a use.  And every trip to the store I can save is a win as far as I'm concerned.  Especially since it's over 30 miles from where the tractors are, to the nearest decent hardware store.


-- Randall

> I'm a two-cylinder John Deere fan, myself, and hope to own a
> 50 or a 520/530 one day, if SWMBO allows it.
>
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 19:32:21 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 20:32:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB39482BE7E91C356821CECA1FA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
 <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <AFE8D555944149399A77557E98A4CF6F@RYPC>
 <DM6PR11MB39482BE7E91C356821CECA1FA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZD-okGKkPW7w0wqzYiZOkFdCmnQ4nz3d=-ZbfHKp2OYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Random comments on this topic.

1st, love the old tractors, like old Triumphs, honest, simple machinery.

2nd, our local Ace Hardware is offering curbside pickup too.  Might be
worth checking out

3rd, I have a lifetime's worth of amateur mechanic/handyman's worth of
fasteners, and even organized them better recently, still seem to always
have to run to the hardware store in the middle of a project.  Luckily for
me a couple options, both less than 2 miles away.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020, 2:50 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
wrote:

> Very nice! I spent many happy hours on my dairy farming ex-father-in-law?s
> 520 and 630, back in the day.  Simple machines and very reliable.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
>
> Albion Technical Services
>
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
>
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>
>
>
> Cell:  630-202-0065
>
> Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Randall
> *Sent:* Friday, April 10, 2020 2:38 PM
> *To:* 'triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
>
>
>
> I've actually got one of each (more or less).  Deere "styled" A I
> inherited from my Mom
>
>
> And an actual, made-in-Coventry Ferguson with the Standard engine  (Ignore
> the stickers and colors, a bad previous restoration attempt)
>
>
>
> On the nuts & bolts issue, I don't mind buying a box to get just a few.
> Might never need another one, but sometimes I find a use.  And every trip
> to the store I can save is a win as far as I'm concerned.  Especially since
> it's over 30 miles from where the tractors are, to the nearest decent
> hardware store.
>
>
>
> -- Randall
>
> > I?m a two-cylinder John Deere fan, myself, and hope to own a
> > 50 or a 520/530 one day, if SWMBO allows it.
> >
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 19:44:27 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 20:44:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>

What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street?   Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.  
Thanks,
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

From john at linneyweb.com  Fri Apr 10 19:53:37 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 18:53:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3D455024-6F12-4252-94D5-D0B2E1BF6687@linneyweb.com>

I have a Bastuck lightened wheel. The engine idles nicely around 900 rpm - so needs a bit more revs than with stock. You also need to stoke a few more revs to move off smoothly, but is much more responsive and ?sports car? feeling. I would definitely do it again.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 10, 2020, at 6:44 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street?   Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.  
> Thanks,
> Bill B
> 
> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
> 


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 20:06:03 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (notakitcar at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 02:06:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <3D455024-6F12-4252-94D5-D0B2E1BF6687@linneyweb.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
 <3D455024-6F12-4252-94D5-D0B2E1BF6687@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <440760196.3922022.1586570763719@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks John, what is the weight of you flywheel?Bill


Sent from Yahoo for iPhone


On Friday, April 10, 2020, 8:53 PM, John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

I have a Bastuck lightened wheel. The engine idles nicely around 900 rpm - so needs a bit more revs than with stock. You also need to stoke a few more revs to move off smoothly, but is much more responsive and ?sports car? feeling. I would definitely do it again.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 10, 2020, at 6:44 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street?? Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.? 
> Thanks,
> Bill B
> 
> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
> 



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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 10 20:06:03 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (notakitcar at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 02:06:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <3D455024-6F12-4252-94D5-D0B2E1BF6687@linneyweb.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
 <3D455024-6F12-4252-94D5-D0B2E1BF6687@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <440760196.3922022.1586570763719@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks John, what is the weight of you flywheel?Bill


Sent from Yahoo for iPhone


On Friday, April 10, 2020, 8:53 PM, John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

I have a Bastuck lightened wheel. The engine idles nicely around 900 rpm - so needs a bit more revs than with stock. You also need to stoke a few more revs to move off smoothly, but is much more responsive and ?sports car? feeling. I would definitely do it again.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 10, 2020, at 6:44 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street?? Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.? 
> Thanks,
> Bill B
> 
> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
> 



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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 10 20:20:59 2020
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 02:20:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2.ref@yahoo.com>,
 <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR19MB3130D54E24FCFEDE72902D73B9DF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

I had one lightened by Joe Alexander several years ago using Kastner race prep guidance.  I think it took the flywheel down from about 26 lbs to 19 lbs.  Definitely improved how the engine revved, and idle was still fine.  Would do it again for sure, but I don't think Joe offers the service anymore so would need to get a machine shop to help.

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 8:44 PM
To: Dave Ranteer <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel

What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street?   Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.
Thanks,
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Apr 10 20:32:27 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 02:32:27 -0000
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
Message-ID: <db5de041-5b50-4fe7-b7c1-5f46fb27fbc9@me.com>

I went with this one from British Parts Northwest on my 1960 TR3, and unfortunately they are out of stock. But I really like it. ?Stock is 31-31 lbs, this one is 9.2. ?I really don't notice any difference starting off, but I definitely notice how much quicker it revs up. ?Also going with this flywheel I upgrade to TR6 clutch, pressure plate and I think throwout bearing too.

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alloy-light-flywheel-tr2-tr3-tr4-tr4a.html


Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 10, 2020 at 6:53 PM, John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

I have a Bastuck lightened wheel. The engine idles nicely around 900 rpm - so needs a bit more revs than with stock. You also need to stoke a few more revs to move off smoothly, but is much more responsive and ?sports car? feeling. I would definitely do it again.

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 10, 2020, at 6:44 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:

?What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street? Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.
Thanks,
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 10 20:45:18 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 19:45:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2.ref@yahoo.com>
 <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7D5A58BFD6F44904852800CA9BEA176B@RYPC>

I've been running an alloy Fidanza flywheel since 2000, along with a stock
TR4A clutch and TOB/carrier.  I really like it, had no qualms at all about
moving it from the wrecked 3A to the current TR3.

I did notice some difference starting out; the engine is easier to kill from
a stop. I have to be more careful about keeping the revs up as I let the
clutch out.  The engine in the 3A was pretty well worn, probably part of the
problem.

But the difference in throttle response in 1st gear is really remarkable.
Makes it feel like a much lighter car.

-- Randall 

> What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel 
> for use on the street?   Just thinking while everything is 
> apart to be balanced.  


From john at linneyweb.com  Fri Apr 10 20:57:27 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2020 19:57:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <db5de041-5b50-4fe7-b7c1-5f46fb27fbc9@me.com>
References: <db5de041-5b50-4fe7-b7c1-5f46fb27fbc9@me.com>
Message-ID: <1587099C-B9E2-4A17-88EA-4E0FD3D9C3FB@linneyweb.com>

I have the same one as Rye. 9lbs or thereabouts. Of course you have to add the weight of the ring gear. 

> On Apr 10, 2020, at 7:39 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I went with this one from British Parts Northwest on my 1960 TR3, and unfortunately they are out of stock. But I really like it.  Stock is 31-31 lbs, this one is 9.2.  I really don't notice any difference starting off, but I definitely notice how much quicker it revs up.  Also going with this flywheel I upgrade to TR6 clutch, pressure plate and I think throwout bearing too.
> 
> https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alloy-light-flywheel-tr2-tr3-tr4-tr4a.html
> 
> 
> Rye
> PH: 530-FIND-RYE
> 
>> On April 10, 2020 at 6:53 PM, John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:
>> 
> 
>> I have a Bastuck lightened wheel. The engine idles nicely around 900 rpm - so needs a bit more revs than with stock. You also need to stoke a few more revs to move off smoothly, but is much more responsive and ?sports car? feeling. I would definitely do it again.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2020, at 6:44 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the street? Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bill B
>>> 
>>> Stay Home, Wash Your Hands.
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
>>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Apr 11 05:52:45 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 07:52:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2.ref@yahoo.com>
 <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008101d60ff7$b8d083a0$2a718ae0$@uprichard.net>

Both my keeper TR3s have lightened wheels and I notice a distinct difference
between them and the other TR3s I have had, but my keepers also have 89mm
pistons and the other cars have usually had 87mm.  

I did not lighten the flywheels, however, I bought them from a manufacturer.

|Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, MI

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 9:44 PM
To: Dave Ranteer <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel

What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the
street?   Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced.  
Thanks,
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net


From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Apr 11 07:02:12 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 07:02:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Birthday
Message-ID: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>

April 11th.? As many of you know, the domain team.net was officially 
registered on April 11, 1991, by the late Bill Caloccia.? I have been 
managing the mailing lists on autox.team.net since then, actually for a 
while before that.? I took over? from Jim Muller, who took over from 
Dale Cook, and I wish I had archives of those first few years.? Actually 
I may have some in my office, on 1/4 inch tape cassettes.? Every now and 
then I consider trying to revive some of the old HP-UX boxes I have to 
see if I can still read any of those tapes.? Maybe someday.

Anyway, in the beginning I was routing everything through the servers at 
the University of Utah Computer Science Department, where I was 
employed.? When my fellow sys admins started noticing just how much 
network traffic there was on a certain box, my boss strongly suggested I 
make other arrangements.? So I went about getting a network connection 
at home.? Back then, it was not that easy, or cheap.? And as I recall, 
the first dedicated Team Net server was an HP box with one of the first 
100+ megahertz CPUs, and even with a deal through HP, who worked closely 
with the U in those days the system set me back about $2,500.? Hardware 
has improved since then.? And that money didn't all come out of my 
pocket, I initiated a fund drive among the list members and got a great 
response.? Back then it was all checks in the mail, and I mailed a thank 
you postcard to every contributor, or at least most of them, no doubt I 
missed a few.? And for some time there was an annual fund drive to cover 
the rather high cost of having sufficient bandwidth from my house.

So here it is 29 and just everybody has fast network available to 
them.?? I dropped the fund drives some years back, though folks do 
continue to contribute to the cause.? Now a few clicks in Paypal can 
take care of it, though some still prefer to send checks. Yep, things 
are different now.? And with the Covid-19 pandemic, a LOT different.? 
But the Team Net mailing lists are still chugging along, providing those 
spending more time at home a bit of distraction, entertainment or 
education as we keep our beloved vehicles rolling along the roads.

I plan to keep it going as long as I can, who knows how many years I 
have left.? April 11th is also my birthday, 66 this year, and I 
certainly won't live forever.? And I fear that when I die, Team Net will 
die.? Sigh.

But for now, enjoy and stay healthy.

mjb.


From tochilds at bellsouth.net  Sat Apr 11 07:07:13 2020
From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (Tony Childs)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 09:07:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Birthday
In-Reply-To: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
References: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.77.1586610440.2961.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Happy Birthday, Mark. And thanks for all you have done and continue to do for us!

Going over to visit Paypal now ? time for a birthday gift!

Tony

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 9:02 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Birthday

April 11th.? As many of you know, the domain team.net was officially 
registered on April 11, 1991, by the late Bill Caloccia.? I have been 
managing the mailing lists on autox.team.net since then, actually for a 
while before that.? I took over? from Jim Muller, who took over from 
Dale Cook, and I wish I had archives of those first few years.? Actually 
I may have some in my office, on 1/4 inch tape cassettes.? Every now and 
then I consider trying to revive some of the old HP-UX boxes I have to 
see if I can still read any of those tapes.? Maybe someday.

Anyway, in the beginning I was routing everything through the servers at 
the University of Utah Computer Science Department, where I was 
employed.? When my fellow sys admins started noticing just how much 
network traffic there was on a certain box, my boss strongly suggested I 
make other arrangements.? So I went about getting a network connection 
at home.? Back then, it was not that easy, or cheap.? And as I recall, 
the first dedicated Team Net server was an HP box with one of the first 
100+ megahertz CPUs, and even with a deal through HP, who worked closely 
with the U in those days the system set me back about $2,500.? Hardware 
has improved since then.? And that money didn't all come out of my 
pocket, I initiated a fund drive among the list members and got a great 
response.? Back then it was all checks in the mail, and I mailed a thank 
you postcard to every contributor, or at least most of them, no doubt I 
missed a few.? And for some time there was an annual fund drive to cover 
the rather high cost of having sufficient bandwidth from my house.

So here it is 29 and just everybody has fast network available to 
them.?? I dropped the fund drives some years back, though folks do 
continue to contribute to the cause.? Now a few clicks in Paypal can 
take care of it, though some still prefer to send checks. Yep, things 
are different now.? And with the Covid-19 pandemic, a LOT different.? 
But the Team Net mailing lists are still chugging along, providing those 
spending more time at home a bit of distraction, entertainment or 
education as we keep our beloved vehicles rolling along the roads.

I plan to keep it going as long as I can, who knows how many years I 
have left.? April 11th is also my birthday, 66 this year, and I 
certainly won't live forever.? And I fear that when I die, Team Net will 
die.? Sigh.

But for now, enjoy and stay healthy.

mjb.

_______________________________________________

Spitfires at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 08:04:05 2020
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 07:04:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Birthday
In-Reply-To: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
References: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <d7e5a77d-f41e-62f4-f83f-8d8476b0c701@gmail.com>

On 4/11/20 6:02 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> April 11th. As many of you know, the domain team.net was officially 
> registered on April 11, 1991, by the late Bill Caloccia. I have been 
> managing the mailing lists on autox.team.net since then, actually for 
> a while before that. I took over from Jim Muller, who took over from 
> Dale Cook, and I wish I had archives of those first few years.

Dale Cook worked at Apollo Computers and had an MGB he kept in a single 
car garage that had a dirt floor (if memory serves). In 1987 (maybe late 
86) I was actively asking TR3 related questions on rec.autos when I 
received an email from Dale. He was starting an email group for British 
cars and asked if I wanted to join. Thus the British car mail list was 
formed for all British cars. A discussion during the first year was what 
to call th group. Everyone liked SOL. the original thought was Sons of 
Lucas. I of course objected and it was decided Scions of Lucas would be 
the official group name.? The acronym LBC was coined of Little British 
Car which never felt quite right for the Land Rover and Bentley crowds 
with Large British Cars.

At the end of 1990 or very early 1991 Bill Caloccia, a Land Rover owner, 
created the Land Rover Owners (LRO) mail list. This was the first marque 
list to be split off from the original British Car mail list. LRO still 
exists today. Not long afterwords the original British Car mail list 
spawned individual marque list for just about every British car marque. 
Some survive today, some died young.

>
> I plan to keep it going as long as I can, who knows how many years I 
> have left. April 11th is also my birthday, 66 this year, and I 
> certainly won't live forever. And I fear that when I die, Team Net 
> will die. Sigh.

Happy birthday Mark, but I consider 66 to be yet on the young side. My 
suggestion is to search for a younger computer savvy person who could 
take over the lists, move the lists to a hosting company, and set the 
domains & hosting? up for dual ownership. That way when you do pass your 
designated replacement could carry on. Better yet, do that then be 
healthy for a long time yet.

TeriAnn


From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sat Apr 11 08:22:13 2020
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 14:22:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Birthday
In-Reply-To: <d7e5a77d-f41e-62f4-f83f-8d8476b0c701@gmail.com>
References: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>,
 <d7e5a77d-f41e-62f4-f83f-8d8476b0c701@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C828FD48-58D3-4DD4-B172-761CE28A3FC1@stevethorntonlaw.com>

TeriAnn et al-


We are all indebted to Mark and those who have offered help throughout the years. There are no words good enough to thank Mark for his time and expertise.

So, I will simply say- Happy Birthday.

Sent from my iPhone


Steven O. Thornton
Attorney at Law
Thornton Law Office
1011 Lehman Avenue
Bowling Green, KY. 42103
270-781-6630


On Apr 11, 2020, at 9:04 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:

?On 4/11/20 6:02 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
April 11th. As many of you know, the domain team.net was officially registered on April 11, 1991, by the late Bill Caloccia. I have been managing the mailing lists on autox.team.net since then, actually for a while before that. I took over from Jim Muller, who took over from Dale Cook, and I wish I had archives of those first few years.

Dale Cook worked at Apollo Computers and had an MGB he kept in a single car garage that had a dirt floor (if memory serves). In 1987 (maybe late 86) I was actively asking TR3 related questions on rec.autos when I received an email from Dale. He was starting an email group for British cars and asked if I wanted to join. Thus the British car mail list was formed for all British cars. A discussion during the first year was what to call th group. Everyone liked SOL. the original thought was Sons of Lucas. I of course objected and it was decided Scions of Lucas would be the official group name.  The acronym LBC was coined of Little British Car which never felt quite right for the Land Rover and Bentley crowds with Large British Cars.

At the end of 1990 or very early 1991 Bill Caloccia, a Land Rover owner, created the Land Rover Owners (LRO) mail list. This was the first marque list to be split off from the original British Car mail list. LRO still exists today. Not long afterwords the original British Car mail list spawned individual marque list for just about every British car marque. Some survive today, some died young.


I plan to keep it going as long as I can, who knows how many years I have left. April 11th is also my birthday, 66 this year, and I certainly won't live forever. And I fear that when I die, Team Net will die. Sigh.

Happy birthday Mark, but I consider 66 to be yet on the young side. My suggestion is to search for a younger computer savvy person who could take over the lists, move the lists to a hosting company, and set the domains & hosting  up for dual ownership. That way when you do pass your designated replacement could carry on. Better yet, do that then be healthy for a long time yet.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com
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From ryel at mac.com  Sat Apr 11 11:54:04 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 17:54:04 -0000
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
Message-ID: <760133b1-dee1-4341-8890-2dc389827774@me.com>

I did similar. ?When I rebuilt my engine I went with the 87.5 big bore (why they make an 87, and 87.5 I don't know) ?a TR4A head, skinny fan belt with?billet?pulleys and harmonic balancer pulley and alternator, wizard aluminum radiator with electric fan, along with the 9.2 lb flywheel, so with that many mods it's not easy determine the single most difference, but?it does "scoot". ?I think John Linney's the best testimonial because I believe that was the single thing he did at the time, so he can actually compare the before and after of the lightened flywheel.

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 11, 2020 at 4:53 AM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:

Both my keeper TR3s have lightened wheels and I notice a distinct difference
between them and the other TR3s I have had, but my keepers also have 89mm
pistons and the other cars have usually had 87mm. 

I did not lighten the flywheels, however, I bought them from a manufacturer.

|Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, MI

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2020 9:44 PM
To: Dave Ranteer <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel

What is the general opinion of lightening the TR3 flywheel for use on the
street? Just thinking while everything is apart to be balanced. 
Thanks,
Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 12:39:13 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 14:39:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <264750049.235446.1586458369469@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001201d60f33$91059820$b310c860$@charter.net>
 <1400793945.284377.1586528096185@connect.xfinity.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394849C5D5E9E9DBD117495AA0DE0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COgAYZ4ZQEZdFKBBHpOjNqMudyezsN8jfDPCLY+Gg-h6A@mail.gmail.com>

The government research farm I worked at had a couple of 620s.  Sold them
on to a collector when we closed the location.

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 3:22 PM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
wrote:

> I?m a two-cylinder John Deere fan, myself, and hope to own a 50 or a
> 520/530 one day, if SWMBO allows it.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
>
> Albion Technical Services
>
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
>
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>
>
>
> Cell:  630-202-0065
>
> Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *TERRY
> SMITH
> *Sent:* Friday, April 10, 2020 9:15 AM
> *To:* Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>; triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
>
>
>
> Ah, the tractor is a 1953 Ford Jubilee.  Chose it because, like the
> Triumph, most all parts are available after market, and those few that
> aren't are available used. The attached photo is after rebuilding the carb,
> engine and transmission, re-assembling them all, sand blasting and applying
> the first coat of paint (needed two) using the inexpensive but actually
> pretty terrific Harbor Freight spray gun.  We have 38 acres here, about 25
> of which we can't access because of a stream that intersects the property.
> I can cross it with a tractor, though.  Lots of firewood down out there.
>
>
>
> And I thought the TR3 was simple to work on....
>
> On April 10, 2020 at 8:28 AM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
> wrote:
>
> Terry ? Here?s a question. What kind of a machine are you restoring? I
> have found that sometimes unusual hardware, such as metric carriage bolts,
> is relatively inexpensive from the machine dealer. I do mean sometimes!
> Other times, it seems like legalized extortion. For many years, I was
> always of the opinion that I would buy box quantities of whatever I needed
> since it was about 60% of the individual cost. Maybe not for things such as
> cylinder head bolts but for common 3/8? x 4? and other sizes that you might
> use for hay wagon construction and other farm construction was a
> no-brainer. An auction at an iron working shop 30 years ago (structural
> steel erection) provided me with about 1000 lbs. or more of ?, 7/8, 1, 1 ?,
> and 1 ?? bolts of various lengths for $250 ? that was a steal. These days,
> I admit, I think twice before buying large quantities of fasteners.
> McMaster-Carr is very inexpensive for a lot of things. Special sized snap
> rings are about a tenth of the cost from Deere. O-rings are the same way. A
> package of 100 from McMaster costs about the same as a package of 10 from
> Motion Industries after you look at some of the crazy shipping prices.
>
>
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> 2 Triumphs
>
> About 8 Deeres ? 1939 ? 2008
>
> 1 Case
>
> 1 Farmall
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *TERRY SMITH
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 09, 2020 2:53 PM
> *To:* triumphs
> *Subject:* [TR] Bolts: This is nuts!
>
>
>
> It's a family discussion whenever anyone wants/needs to leave the house
> for obvious reasons.  So instead of running to the hardware store to pick
> up some grade 8 bolts for my tractor restoration, I'm having to look at
> what I can order online.
>
>
>
> My first thought was McMaster-Carr.  Found what I need, but I don't need
> 25 3/8ths bolts 1 1/4 inches long.  What I need are four to eight of
> various sizes and threads.
>
>
>
> Anybody have a preferred online source for quality-to-cost bolts?
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Apr 11 12:41:42 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 14:41:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lightening a TR flywheel
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR19MB3130D54E24FCFEDE72902D73B9DF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2.ref@yahoo.com>
 <65C62046-12D5-4916-B780-F761324A17B2@yahoo.com>
 <DM6PR19MB3130D54E24FCFEDE72902D73B9DF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COE75owrDttOQCHZizxn9Dzd6xMYL8PT0fO-UXUFbzLnw@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 10:43 PM Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I had one lightened by Joe Alexander several years ago using Kastner race
> prep guidance.
>
>
Is there similar guidance for Spitfires?  My engine is apart, and at the
machine shop, so why not shave a pound or two?
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Apr 11 15:38:14 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 21:38:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Birthday
In-Reply-To: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
References: <5bc9431c-6f6d-a881-6103-fc7dde262eda@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <804760979.2777043.1586641094141@mail.yahoo.com>

 Happy birthday to both you and the list.? You're both old enough to drink and I think you both have earned it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: spitfires <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Apr 11, 2020 8:02 am
Subject: [TR] Birthday

April 11th.? As many of you know, the domain team.net was officially 
registered on April 11, 1991, by the late Bill Caloccia.? I have been 
managing the mailing lists on autox.team.net since then, actually for a 
while before that.? I took over? from Jim Muller, who took over from 
Dale Cook, and I wish I had archives of those first few years.? Actually 
I may have some in my office, on 1/4 inch tape cassettes.? Every now and 
then I consider trying to revive some of the old HP-UX boxes I have to 
see if I can still read any of those tapes.? Maybe someday.

Anyway, in the beginning I was routing everything through the servers at 
the University of Utah Computer Science Department, where I was 
employed.? When my fellow sys admins started noticing just how much 
network traffic there was on a certain box, my boss strongly suggested I 
make other arrangements.? So I went about getting a network connection 
at home.? Back then, it was not that easy, or cheap.? And as I recall, 
the first dedicated Team Net server was an HP box with one of the first 
100+ megahertz CPUs, and even with a deal through HP, who worked closely 
with the U in those days the system set me back about $2,500.? Hardware 
has improved since then.? And that money didn't all come out of my 
pocket, I initiated a fund drive among the list members and got a great 
response.? Back then it was all checks in the mail, and I mailed a thank 
you postcard to every contributor, or at least most of them, no doubt I 
missed a few.? And for some time there was an annual fund drive to cover 
the rather high cost of having sufficient bandwidth from my house.

So here it is 29 and just everybody has fast network available to 
them.?? I dropped the fund drives some years back, though folks do 
continue to contribute to the cause.? Now a few clicks in Paypal can 
take care of it, though some still prefer to send checks. Yep, things 
are different now.? And with the Covid-19 pandemic, a LOT different.? 
But the Team Net mailing lists are still chugging along, providing those 
spending more time at home a bit of distraction, entertainment or 
education as we keep our beloved vehicles rolling along the roads.

I plan to keep it going as long as I can, who knows how many years I 
have left.? April 11th is also my birthday, 66 this year, and I 
certainly won't live forever.? And I fear that when I die, Team Net will 
die.? Sigh.

But for now, enjoy and stay healthy.

mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

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From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Sat Apr 11 17:20:45 2020
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2020 19:20:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wedge Owners - Never Chance Losing Your Gas Cap Again
References: <052501d61057$d450e9c0$7cf2bd40$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <052501d61057$d450e9c0$7cf2bd40$@verizon.net>

Everyone,

Who amongst you while at a gas station have filled your Wedge and then
forgotten to reinstall the cap?  Did you leave it on the gas pump, the
car's rear deck or even on the bumper and then forget to reinstall it?
I have.  Nerve wracking or expensive, wasn't it?  Well I have solved the
problem and developed a simple device that is easy to install and it
will relieve any chance of ever losing your gas cap!

For more information and to order go to:
https://www.tracltd.org/wedge-gas-cap-cable.html

Gary Klein
'80 TR8 DHC
Severn, MD
Digest





From stan at redtr6.com  Sun Apr 12 05:32:54 2020
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 11:32:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling Moss RIP
Message-ID: <MN2PR05MB6989D6DDEF72DD4B5625F79EFEDC0@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Today we wake up the sad news that Sir Stirling Moss has died.

Sir Stirling Moss, the much-loved and respected racing driver, has died at the age of 90 after a long illness.

Moss is survived by his third wife Susie and two children. "He died as he lived, looking wonderful," Lady Moss told Mail Online on Sunday.


-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David P
Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 9:06 AM
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video

Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart

at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com

From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Sun Apr 12 08:13:20 2020
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 10:13:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling Moss RIP
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR05MB6989D6DDEF72DD4B5625F79EFEDC0@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR05MB6989D6DDEF72DD4B5625F79EFEDC0@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAONC1_5gzryEsQb=3iL_MeAJ_wki--hyVWMK3HHx2W-epHbp5w@mail.gmail.com>

Very sorry to hear this. He was one of my favorites in motorsport. I
especially loved the story of his drive winning the 1955 Mille Miglia
written by his navigator, Denis Jenkinson.

On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 7:33 AM Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com> wrote:

> Today we wake up the sad news that Sir Stirling Moss has died.
>
> Sir Stirling Moss, the much-loved and respected racing driver, has died at
> the age of 90 after a long illness.
>
> Moss is survived by his third wife Susie and two children. "He died as he
> lived, looking wonderful," Lady Moss told Mail Online on Sunday.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David P
> Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 9:06 AM
> To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video
>
> Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're
> a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a
> day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart
>
> at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW
>
>
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan at redtr6.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 12 09:07:21 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 11:07:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling Moss RIP
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_5gzryEsQb=3iL_MeAJ_wki--hyVWMK3HHx2W-epHbp5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MN2PR05MB6989D6DDEF72DD4B5625F79EFEDC0@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAONC1_5gzryEsQb=3iL_MeAJ_wki--hyVWMK3HHx2W-epHbp5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <027701d610dc$11fab1a0$35f014e0$@gmail.com>

So sad to hear, but so glad the link of the video with Patrick Stewart was sent out last week.  I thoroughly enjoyed watching that being a fan of Sir Stirling and Sir Patrick.  Ordered a diecast replica of the Vanwall he used to win the British GP and really want to get a Caterham now.   One of my favorite drivers of all time.  Wish he could have driven for Ferrari through the 60s.  How many world championships would he have one.  My 81 TR8 is named after Sir Stirling!  

 

I shall hoist one in his honor today!

 

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Larry Griffin
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 10:13 AM
To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Sir Stirling Moss RIP

 

Very sorry to hear this. He was one of my favorites in motorsport. I especially loved the story of his drive winning the 1955 Mille Miglia written by his navigator, Denis Jenkinson. 

 

On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 7:33 AM Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com <mailto:stan at redtr6.com> > wrote:

Today we wake up the sad news that Sir Stirling Moss has died.

Sir Stirling Moss, the much-loved and respected racing driver, has died at the age of 90 after a long illness.

Moss is survived by his third wife Susie and two children. "He died as he lived, looking wonderful," Lady Moss told Mail Online on Sunday.


-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of David P
Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 9:06 AM
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> ) <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] Sir Stirling..very nice video

Not bike racing but car racing and a new look at Patrick Stewart if you're a Trek fan..  I happened to idolize Moss, and was very fortunate to spend a day with him at a Santa fe car show as co-judges. I felt just like Stewart

at the conclusion of our meeting.. FWIW




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8 <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtRWhPQVAY8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs> &feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR3b_KnYVApl3R6_1QlceFQIkN2JuF49qMYibO3n8xr6BjP1D3SlmJv4uAs

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 12 10:44:38 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 16:44:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] FLYWHEELS
References: <1915966577.4476502.1586709878784.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1915966577.4476502.1586709878784@mail.yahoo.com>

I have been lightening flywheels along with all rotating parts and balancing them since I first my TR-3 many years ago. Generally, I lighten to about 19 lbs and Magna flu all moving parts. This has paid off in a reliable, well running TR.
Joe Mato62 Wood RoadRedding, CT 06896917 232 1555
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From nogera at hotmail.com  Sun Apr 12 13:40:45 2020
From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 19:40:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
Message-ID: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

In a Cam Gear box ( TR2-3), anyone know how the cam gear is attached to the shaft?
Thanks 
Bob Nogueira

Bob Nogueira 

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Apr 12 13:43:11 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 15:43:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <02f901d61102$9a6f71d0$cf4e5570$@uprichard.net>

As far as I know, it's pressed on.  Not something I would attempt.

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 3:41 PM
To: Triumph List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement

In a Cam Gear box ( TR2-3), anyone know how the cam gear is attached to the
shaft?
Thanks 
Bob Nogueira

Bob Nogueira 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Apr 12 13:58:30 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 15:58:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <02f901d61102$9a6f71d0$cf4e5570$@uprichard.net>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <02f901d61102$9a6f71d0$cf4e5570$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <150799690.365178.1586721511492@connect.xfinity.com>

I had to take mine to the machine shop.

Terry Smith, New Hampshire

> On April 12, 2020 at 3:43 PM andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> As far as I know, it's pressed on.  Not something I would attempt.
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira
> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 3:41 PM
> To: Triumph List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
> 
> In a Cam Gear box ( TR2-3), anyone know how the cam gear is attached to the
> shaft?
> Thanks 
> Bob Nogueira
> 
> Bob Nogueira 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 12 14:15:12 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 13:15:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>

The shaft is splined.  The worm is pressed on over the splines, and then the
end of the shaft is rolled over (like a big rivet) to secure the worm.  Moss
suggests heating to approximately 350F and using a press both ways (on and
off).  With enough force, the rolled over section will straighten out and
(hopefully) be reusable.

I forget where I got this photo, might have been from Mark Macy:
https://i.imgur.com/bNIGZxU.jpg

Worth noting that the factory did not consider the worm to be field
replaceable.  They only sold it already installed on the shaft.

Also worth noting that the worm is different for LHD vs RHD.  Make sure you
get the right one, or your steering wheel is going to work backwards!

-- Randall 

> In a Cam Gear box ( TR2-3), anyone know how the cam gear is 
> attached to the shaft?


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Apr 12 14:42:46 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 16:42:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>
Message-ID: <003b01d6110a$eca79880$c5f6c980$@charter.net>


Also worth noting that the worm is different for LHD vs RHD.  Make sure you
get the right one, or your steering wheel is going to work backwards!

-- Randall 



Whew! That could be a good sobriety test! I think steering boxes on Ford
NAA/600/601 tractors were like that - they looked identical on the outside
but rotations were opposite for different models.

Alex Thomson




From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Sun Apr 12 15:50:58 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 17:50:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ordering  vinyl for restoration
Message-ID: <DFEF2216-5866-43BF-AB76-D8DA64CBAA76@columbus.rr.com>

how much vinyl should be ordered to do the interior of a TR2-3
including material for seats tonneau top hood stick cover  and side curtains

From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Sun Apr 12 16:06:45 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 18:06:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <003b01d6110a$eca79880$c5f6c980$@charter.net>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>
 <003b01d6110a$eca79880$c5f6c980$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1D872CCC-8E4E-4ADC-ABC8-CDB98DC0C702@columbus.rr.com>

In my early days I put a LHD shaft in a RHD box

What a fun couple of days we had at the beach !!!!!!!!


> On Apr 12, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Also worth noting that the worm is different for LHD vs RHD.  Make sure you
> get the right one, or your steering wheel is going to work backwards!
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> 
> 
> Whew! That could be a good sobriety test! I think steering boxes on Ford
> NAA/600/601 tractors were like that - they looked identical on the outside
> but rotations were opposite for different models.
> 
> Alex Thomson
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trhouse at columbus.rr.com


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Apr 12 16:18:33 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 15:18:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Steering box Cam Gear replacement
In-Reply-To: <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>
References: <SN6PR17MB22235EDB2A49C4960A7A7980DFDC0@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <5CC45A8F601F443787D82F8444AE1433@RYPC>
Message-ID: <1398368229.1464809.1586729913620@connect.xfinity.com>

Now that would be an interesting dilemma...backwards steering.
Randall described the important info on this subject.  
It would be best to let someone who has done this before handle the job.  
The gear is in fact, "swedged",I think that's how it's spelled, tightly in placed.  The length of the shaft makes it extremely difficult to change without the proper setup.
Dave H.
> On April 12, 2020 at 1:15 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> The shaft is splined.  The worm is pressed on over the splines, and then the
> end of the shaft is rolled over (like a big rivet) to secure the worm.  Moss
> suggests heating to approximately 350F and using a press both ways (on and
> off).  With enough force, the rolled over section will straighten out and
> (hopefully) be reusable.
> 
> I forget where I got this photo, might have been from Mark Macy:
> https://i.imgur.com/bNIGZxU.jpg
> 
> Worth noting that the factory did not consider the worm to be field
> replaceable.  They only sold it already installed on the shaft.
> 
> Also worth noting that the worm is different for LHD vs RHD.  Make sure you
> get the right one, or your steering wheel is going to work backwards!
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> > In a Cam Gear box ( TR2-3), anyone know how the cam gear is 
> > attached to the shaft?
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net

From loumetelko at aol.com  Sun Apr 12 17:49:32 2020
From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2020 23:49:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Ordering  vinyl for restoration
In-Reply-To: <DFEF2216-5866-43BF-AB76-D8DA64CBAA76@columbus.rr.com>
References: <DFEF2216-5866-43BF-AB76-D8DA64CBAA76@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <74819496.4546879.1586735372490@mail.yahoo.com>



In a message dated 4/12/2020 5:51:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, trhouse at columbus.rr.com writes:

how much vinyl should be ordered to do the interior of a TR2-3including material for seats tonneau top hood stick cover? and side curtains

Tom:When Larry Learn did the completely bare interior of my TR2, I sent the entire car with 6 yards of Geranium leather for the seats and door capping, 6 yards of vinyl for the top, side curtains, hood stick cover and tonneau, and six yards of vinyl for the dash, inside doors, seat backs and rear area.
Larry returned a box of cuttings but it appeared he used most of all 18 yards.
I share your pain at the loss of Joe Richards.
Lou MetelkoAuburn, Indiana
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 13 01:28:39 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 07:28:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] MJB Happy TR Birthday!
References: <751168234.4686212.1586762919063.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <751168234.4686212.1586762919063@mail.yahoo.com>

>From all of us to you, and many more. Thanks for providing us a cubby hole and a place to find advice. Joe Mato
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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Mon Apr 13 11:30:10 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 13:30:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
Message-ID: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>

looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?

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From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Apr 13 12:24:23 2020
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 18:24:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>

 The "shield" badge is typical of the earlier Heralds on which it's pictured here; later ones were similar but only painted rather than the fired enamel of this one.
However, if you're asking about that "E," I've no clue; sorry!
--AndyAndrew Macehttp://triumph-herald.us
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm
Subject: [TR] Badge ID

looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 13 14:37:37 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 20:37:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <647289746.3355222.1586810257403@mail.yahoo.com>

 from a spitfire i think
    On Monday, April 13, 2020, 10:33:39 AM PDT, Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com> wrote:  
 
 looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Mon Apr 13 14:48:50 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 20:48:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
 <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Could it be from a Standard Ensign?  Apparently some had the shield on the front Grille, but I cannot find a pic of one with the ?E? below the shield.

[cid:image001.png at 01D611AB.05402CE0]

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Andrew S. Mace
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 1:24 PM
To: trhouse at columbus.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Badge ID

The "shield" badge is typical of the earlier Heralds on which it's pictured here; later ones were similar but only painted rather than the fired enamel of this one.

However, if you're asking about that "E," I've no clue; sorry!

--Andy
Andrew Mace
http://triumph-herald.us


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com<mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com>>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?

[cid:image002.jpg at 01D611AB.05402CE0]

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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Mon Apr 13 15:06:45 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 21:06:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
 <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR11MB3948B06E108AC07661D133CBA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Never mind ? I read Andy?s note again and I see that it can only be from a Herald.  Could the E be some kind of after-market tuner badge?

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Marr
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 3:49 PM
To: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>; trhouse at columbus.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Badge ID

Could it be from a Standard Ensign?  Apparently some had the shield on the front Grille, but I cannot find a pic of one with the ?E? below the shield.

[cid:image001.png at 01D611AD.861FE560]

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com<mailto:mmarr at albiontechnical.com>

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Andrew S. Mace
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 1:24 PM
To: trhouse at columbus.rr.com<mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Badge ID

The "shield" badge is typical of the earlier Heralds on which it's pictured here; later ones were similar but only painted rather than the fired enamel of this one.

However, if you're asking about that "E," I've no clue; sorry!

--Andy
Andrew Mace
http://triumph-herald.us<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__triumph-2Dherald.us&d=DwMGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=HM90EXWmuGNDY3T2emdvMEXJ4IT9I66OzWYKjYnvtEU&s=0CtBTaIkRRnkhpgjrK3Z0KpTRRpeUv5fz3DIFGr3ipk&e=>


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com<mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com>>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?

[cid:image002.jpg at 01D611AD.861FE560]

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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Mon Apr 13 15:18:28 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 17:18:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
 <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <F8FB69E6-5D25-4311-B9CE-AAB79D47DD73@columbus.rr.com>

THE ORIGINAL BADGE PIC I SENT IS ON A MYSTERY FIBERGLASS SPECIAL FOUND IN AUSTRALIA  MAYBE A CLUE FOR THE ?E? CAN BE FOUND THERE? 
> On Apr 13, 2020, at 4:48 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
> 
> Could it be from a Standard Ensign?  Apparently some had the shield on the front Grille, but I cannot find a pic of one with the ?E? below the shield.
>  
> 
>  
> Mike
>  
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
> Albion Technical Services
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>  
> Cell:  630-202-0065
> Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com <mailto:mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Andrew S. Mace
> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 1:24 PM
> To: trhouse at columbus.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Badge ID
>  
> The "shield" badge is typical of the earlier Heralds on which it's pictured here; later ones were similar but only painted rather than the fired enamel of this one.
>  
> However, if you're asking about that "E," I've no clue; sorry!
>  
> --Andy
> Andrew Mace
> http://triumph-herald.us <http://triumph-herald.us/>
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com <mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com>>
> To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm
> Subject: [TR] Badge ID
> 
> looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?
>  

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Apr 13 15:57:27 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 22:57:27 +0100
Subject: [TR] Badge ID
In-Reply-To: <F8FB69E6-5D25-4311-B9CE-AAB79D47DD73@columbus.rr.com>
References: <DB07B2A6-F3BD-4E02-BF83-65C469CEC6E5@columbus.rr.com>
 <1699701533.4993361.1586802263714@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DM6PR11MB394812522E12344156C6651CA0DD0@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <F8FB69E6-5D25-4311-B9CE-AAB79D47DD73@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <093B28AC-9252-4CDE-9A23-2A3297CD450B@Ukpips.org.uk>

Any chance of doing an I/D on the Commission number? That could reveal more. If the car was found in Australia it may well have been built there from a CKD kit. The Comm# is the way to find out.

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?


> On 13 Apr 2020, at 22:18, Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> THE ORIGINAL BADGE PIC I SENT IS ON A MYSTERY FIBERGLASS SPECIAL FOUND IN AUSTRALIA  MAYBE A CLUE FOR THE ?E? CAN BE FOUND THERE? 
>> On Apr 13, 2020, at 4:48 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Could it be from a Standard Ensign?  Apparently some had the shield on the front Grille, but I cannot find a pic of one with the ?E? below the shield.
>>  
>> <image001.png>
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
>> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
>> Albion Technical Services
>> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
>> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>>  
>> Cell:  630-202-0065
>> Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>>  
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Andrew S. Mace
>> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 1:24 PM
>> To: trhouse at columbus.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Badge ID
>>  
>> The "shield" badge is typical of the earlier Heralds on which it's pictured here; later ones were similar but only painted rather than the fired enamel of this one.
>>  
>> However, if you're asking about that "E," I've no clue; sorry!
>>  
>> --Andy
>> Andrew Mace
>> http://triumph-herald.us
>>  
>>  
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
>> To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 1:30 pm
>> Subject: [TR] Badge ID
>> 
>> looking for aN ID ON THIS BADGE?
>>  
>> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Mon Apr 13 16:30:33 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 18:30:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: BADGE ID
References: <011401d611e2$96d04140$c470c3c0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F96341A6-1D8C-4CEF-BAAE-BBB16BA7CFFF@columbus.rr.com>



> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Undiscovered Classics <undiscovered.classics at gmail.com>
> Subject: RE: FYI
> Date: April 13, 2020 at 6:26:33 PM EDT
> To: "'Tom Householder'" <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
> Reply-To: <Undiscovered.Classics at gmail.com>
> 
> Hi Tom.  Thanks for sending my way.  Stay healthy out there?.
>  
> Geoff
>  
>  
> From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com <mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com>> 
> Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 7:07 PM
> To: Undiscovered.Classics at gmail.com <mailto:Undiscovered.Classics at gmail.com>
> Subject: FYI
>  
>  
> http://britishcarlinks.com <http://britishcarlinks.com/>
>  
>  
>  
> New mystery car!
> 
>  
>  <http://britishcarlinks.com/Copy%20of%20Mystery%201.jpg>      <http://britishcarlinks.com/Copy%20of%20Mystery%202.jpg>      <http://britishcarlinks.com/Copy%20of%20Mystery%203.jpg>
>  
> From down under comes this very interesting mystery car. If you know what it is the owner can be reached via the link below. "I have just purchased this a Triumph based sports racing car in Australia it is believed to be a early 60s car, the body appears to be to well made to be a one off (but always possible). I am looking for any information people may have, unfortunately the previous owner has passed away and his family know very little about this car any information you or your website may have would be appreciated , I hope to rebuild it and race it in historic racing but to do so I need to establish more information about it to have them accept it. photos can be viewed on the attached link, the car is all there (just disassembled) bar one side of the front suspension. which appears to be standard so it should not be a problem to replace. http://users.tpg.com.au/normv/RACECAR/RACECAR.html <http://users.tpg.com.au/normv/RACECAR/RACECAR.html>.
> 
> Thanks 
> Norm Vesty"

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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Apr 14 10:02:15 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 12:02:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 (split) steering box rebuild questions
In-Reply-To: <71c0d66c698b4.5e95de84@cgocable.ca>
References: <72b0f03e6f23c.5e95dc5a@cgocable.ca>
 <7260ffa36b0cc.5e95dcd5@cgocable.ca>
 <71709a4b6876b.5e95dd12@cgocable.ca>
 <71e0af0d689c0.5e95dd51@cgocable.ca>
 <7270af946bee5.5e95dd8e@cgocable.ca>
 <71b0846d6ae03.5e95de0b@cgocable.ca>
 <7170bc6c6f1da.5e95de47@cgocable.ca>
 <71c0d66c698b4.5e95de84@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <7260defe6846e.5e95a647@cgocable.ca>

Finally pulled the box out, 2 questions have come up:

1) The steering system parts diagram shows 1 rubber bushing (they call it a bearing) but Moss & TRF both list 2 as required. Where does the 2nd one go? part # 209423 or 525-020

2) Does anybody know where I can buy a hand reamer as shown in Macy's instructions pages? My go-to store for 1-off tools (Princess Auto/Harbor Freight) doesn't list them and I haven't found that size on amazon either.
https://macysgarage.com/stg-box-3.htm


Thanks,


Art.
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From kmbeam at comcast.net  Tue Apr 14 14:59:50 2020
From: kmbeam at comcast.net (Kevin Beam)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 16:59:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 (split) steering box rebuild questions (Art McEwen)
Message-ID: <05c901d6129f$a94093d0$fbc1bb70$@comcast.net>

Please understand that I am NOT trying to dissuade you from rebuilding your
steering box.  I am only providing my experience with Macy's Garage, Tipp
City, OH (near Dayton), https://macysgarage.com.  Macy's rebuilt our TR-3's
steering box when our car was recently restored.  
(Also, see https://macysgarage.com/stg-box-1.htm, TR2-3B Steering Box
Rebuild)
***
I have no financial interest with Macy's Garage and "your mileage may vary".
***
The proprietor, Mark Macy, triumph.guru at yahoo.com, responded to my initial
inquiry on 09/14/19 (so the price may have changed) with:
We do these all the time, over 200 to date, typically 2 per month for the
last 10 years or so. Box it up and ship it up here and we'll take care of
the rebuild for you. Be sure to wrap in plastic so that no residual fluid
will leak out and discolor the box. UPS etc. will get real excited about a
HazMat spill if they see the box start to change colors! Cost is a flat rate
7 hours ($532) labor plus parts as needed once we get inside. We do need the
drop arm and the lower mounting bracket (the big cast iron one) still
attached. We want to be the ones to re-torque the large nut on the bottom of
the rocker shaft. Turn around time is typically 7-10 days.
***
This is what was done/supplied to/for our steering box:
TR2/3 steering box overhaul, flat rate. Complete disassembly, clean and
inspect all internal components, sandblast and paint all external
components, install new rocker shaft bushing and ream to size, install new
seal and gaskets and install new worm gear onto steering shaft. Set column
pre-load by adjusting lower shim pack, and re-assemble complete unit.
Shim, .005 Inches   
Shim, .010 Inches   
Peg, Sector Shaft   
Anti Rattle Ring (One piece column only)
Washer, Locktab
Oil Seal, Steering  
Bushing   
Plug for 1/2" Hole  
Gasket, End Plate   
Gasket, Steering Box
Shop Supplies (small charge)
Return shipping of steering box, Handling & Insurance - (depends on distance
from Macy's)
***
While there is still a very small amount of "steering play", I am very
pleased with the rebuild and the vary large amount of play that was removed.
The person who restored the car indicated he would use Macy's again.  
***
Note: Macy's web site landing page currently reads in part, "Macy's Garage
will be closed from March 24 - April 30 as we comply with a State of Ohio
mandate to "Stay at Home" due to the Chinese Corona Virus Pandemic."
**
Good luck and be safe
--
Kevin Beam!


From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 16:18:26 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 15:18:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>

I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working
our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We
used the term barrier cream.

Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams.

Sujit



-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Tue Apr 14 16:22:17 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 15:22:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5E5ED7C3-D49D-45FC-9B18-02EDC767054B@mac.com>


Elmer?s (the glue people) used to have one, but a quick search didn?t come up with that.  But I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Workmans-Moisturizes-Provides-Superior-Protection/dp/B079SL3XFR <https://www.amazon.com/Workmans-Moisturizes-Provides-Superior-Protection/dp/B079SL3XFR>

-Darrell

> On Apr 14, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream. 
> 
> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams. 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ <https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/>
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Tue Apr 14 16:29:18 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 23:29:18 +0100
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>

The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?


> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream. 
> 
> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams. 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr 14 17:36:43 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 16:36:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 (split) steering box rebuild questions
In-Reply-To: <7260defe6846e.5e95a647@cgocable.ca>
References: <72b0f03e6f23c.5e95dc5a@cgocable.ca>
 <7260ffa36b0cc.5e95dcd5@cgocable.ca> <71709a4b6876b.5e95dd12@cgocable.ca>
 <71e0af0d689c0.5e95dd51@cgocable.ca> <7270af946bee5.5e95dd8e@cgocable.ca>
 <71b0846d6ae03.5e95de0b@cgocable.ca> <7170bc6c6f1da.5e95de47@cgocable.ca>
 <71c0d66c698b4.5e95de84@cgocable.ca> <7260defe6846e.5e95a647@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <626ACF549A9A40DFB7CDF533D578414E@RYPC>


> 1) The steering system parts diagram shows 1 rubber bushing 
> (they call it a bearing) but Moss & TRF both list 2 as 
> required.   Where does the 2nd one go?  part # 209423 or 525-020

Those are only for the 'split' column.  One goes at the top of the bottom
half, the other at the bottom of the top half.  Originals were not just
rubber, but a 3-layer construction of nylon on the inside, a steel shell
around the nylon, and an outer layer of rubber.  Only the nylon touched the
shaft.

Terminology may vary, but to me, a "bushing" is a type of bearing.  So they
are both bushings and bearings.

> 2) Does anybody know where I can buy a hand reamer as shown 
> in Macy's instructions pages?   My go-to store for 1-off 
> tools (Princess Auto/Harbor Freight) doesn't list them and I 
> haven't found that size on amazon either.
> https://macysgarage.com/stg-box-3.htm

I would hold off on buying the reamer, until you're sure you need one.  I've
only done this 3 times, but I have not needed a reamer any of those times.

I'm also not at all a fan of adjustable reamers, especially cheap ones.  IMO
it's better to measure your shaft, and buy a fixed reamer to suit.  IIRC,
the shaft is sized so that a standard fixed reamer will give the correct
running clearance.  IOW, the shaft is .001 to .002 smaller than a standard
size (might well be 7/8 as Macy says, I just don't recall offhand).
https://amzn.com/B00U6JYG0A

If you do need a slightly smaller hole (due to wear in the shaft), you can
sharpen the reamer.

If you do go with an adjustable reamer, take very small cuts with it.  Find
the smallest setting that will cut at all, then move up in tiny (like .002")
steps until you get the size you need.

-- Randall


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr 14 17:51:14 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 19:51:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007e01d612b7$95ab6080$c1022180$@charter.net>

Here?s just a few when I googled ?hand cream barrier?

 

 

https://rrtools.com/product/barricade-protective-hand-barrier-cream/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping <https://rrtools.com/product/barricade-protective-hand-barrier-cream/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Copy%20Copy%20GS_main&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=709&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYASABEgJJGPD_BwE> &utm_campaign=Copy%20Copy%20GS_main&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=709&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYASABEgJJGPD_BwE

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/5ZCT3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYAiABEgJFRfD_BwE <https://www.grainger.com/product/5ZCT3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYAiABEgJFRfD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYAiABEgJFRfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281733020582!!!g!327343667648!> &cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI_cjV4ozp6AIVgv3jBx2vdwWmEAQYAiABEgJFRfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281733020582!!!g!327343667648!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Workmans-Moisturizes-Provides-Superior-Protection/dp/B079SL3XFR  (Might be available at Home Depot)

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 6:18 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream

 

I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream. 

 

Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams. 

 

Sujit

 




 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 18:29:07 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 20:29:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>

Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.? I use it 
regularly when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
white tube with blue and red text? $9USD...tube will last years

rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.

ptegler

On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of 
> dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I 
> still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>
> Jonmac
>
> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
> Lord Uxbridge: ??By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>
>
> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com 
> <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering? and 
>> working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to 
>> our hands. We used the term barrier cream.
>>
>> Is there such a thing in US??A google?search comes up with general 
>> creams.
>>
>> Sujit
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Sujit Roy
>> Cupertino, California
>>
>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Apr 14 20:15:28 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 22:15:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 (split) steering box rebuild questions
In-Reply-To: <626ACF549A9A40DFB7CDF533D578414E@RYPC>
References: <72b0f03e6f23c.5e95dc5a@cgocable.ca>
 <7260ffa36b0cc.5e95dcd5@cgocable.ca> <71709a4b6876b.5e95dd12@cgocable.ca>
 <71e0af0d689c0.5e95dd51@cgocable.ca> <7270af946bee5.5e95dd8e@cgocable.ca>
 <71b0846d6ae03.5e95de0b@cgocable.ca> <7170bc6c6f1da.5e95de47@cgocable.ca>
 <71c0d66c698b4.5e95de84@cgocable.ca> <7260defe6846e.5e95a647@cgocable.ca>
 <626ACF549A9A40DFB7CDF533D578414E@RYPC>
Message-ID: <2FE32672-D931-4900-807B-C13D5DFCC80C@cogeco.ca>



> On Apr 14, 2020, at 7:36 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Those are only for the 'split' column.  One goes at the top of the bottom
> half, the other at the bottom of the top half.  

Thanks.   

I think there's an old one in the lower shaft but no evidence of one in the upper.  

I was thinking that it went about where it's pictured on the parts diagram and my lack of a bushing at the wheel went part of the way to explain why the steering wheel seemed not to be rigid in the upper shaft housing.  So how much wheel wobble in the shaft is to be expected when I'm done?

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Apr 14 22:40:43 2020
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 23:40:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>

I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, when I
was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.  It looks like their
packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.

As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any of
my own.

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:

> Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.  I use it regularly
> when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
> white tube with blue and red text  $9USD...tube will last years
>
> rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>
> ptegler
> On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>
> The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of
> dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I still
> use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>
> Jonmac
>
> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
> Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>
>
> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and
> working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our
> hands. We used the term barrier cream.
>
> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams.
>
> Sujit
>
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.
> macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
> --
> Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
>
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 23:31:28 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 01:31:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>
 <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c2df03c5-b02e-7670-b5fe-ad85d3a3def4@verizon.net>

...PB Blaster (speaking of labels that don't change)

ptegler

On 4/15/2020 12:40 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, 
> when I was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.? It looks 
> like their packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.
>
> As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any 
> of my own.
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
>
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net 
> <mailto:ptegler at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>     Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.? I use it
>     regularly when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
>     white tube with blue and red text? $9USD...tube will last years
>
>     rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>
>     ptegler
>
>     On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>     The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of
>>     dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your
>>     hands. I still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>>
>>     Jonmac
>>
>>     At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>>     Lord Uxbridge: ??By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>>     Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>>
>>
>>     On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>     I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering?
>>>     and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a
>>>     cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream.
>>>
>>>     Is there such a thing in US??A google?search comes up with
>>>     general creams.
>>>
>>>     Sujit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>     -- 
>>>     Sujit Roy
>>>     Cupertino, California
>>>
>>>     https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>
>>>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>     http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>>
>>     **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>>
>>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
>     -- 
>     Paul Tegler
>     ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Apr 14 23:31:28 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 01:31:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>
 <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c2df03c5-b02e-7670-b5fe-ad85d3a3def4@verizon.net>

...PB Blaster (speaking of labels that don't change)

ptegler

On 4/15/2020 12:40 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, 
> when I was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.? It looks 
> like their packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.
>
> As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any 
> of my own.
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
>
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net 
> <mailto:ptegler at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>     Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.? I use it
>     regularly when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
>     white tube with blue and red text? $9USD...tube will last years
>
>     rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>
>     ptegler
>
>     On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>     The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of
>>     dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your
>>     hands. I still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>>
>>     Jonmac
>>
>>     At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>>     Lord Uxbridge: ??By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>>     Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>>
>>
>>     On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>     I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering?
>>>     and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a
>>>     cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream.
>>>
>>>     Is there such a thing in US??A google?search comes up with
>>>     general creams.
>>>
>>>     Sujit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>     -- 
>>>     Sujit Roy
>>>     Cupertino, California
>>>
>>>     https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>
>>>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>     http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>>
>>     **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>>
>>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
>     -- 
>     Paul Tegler
>     ptegler at verizon.net   www.teglerizer.com
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Apr 14 07:28:12 2020
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 13:28:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: BADGE ID
In-Reply-To: <F96341A6-1D8C-4CEF-BAAE-BBB16BA7CFFF@columbus.rr.com>
References: <011401d611e2$96d04140$c470c3c0$@gmail.com>
 <F96341A6-1D8C-4CEF-BAAE-BBB16BA7CFFF@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <117462068.243148.1586870892933@mail.yahoo.com>

 Fascinating car! It definitely is based on the early Herald chassis (shortened in a most "interesting" way!), and the one shot of the engine makes me think it's a relatively stock 948 Herald engine with the twin 1 1/8" SU H1s.
--AndyAndrew Macehttp://triumph-herald.us
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Fot at Autox.Team.net
Cc: John Rummery <rumbo at replicore.co.nz>; Paul McEwen <prmcewen at westnet.com.au>
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 6:30 pm
Subject: [TR] Fwd: BADGE ID




Begin forwarded message:
From: Undiscovered Classics <undiscovered.classics at gmail.com>
Subject: RE: FYI
Date: April 13, 2020 at 6:26:33 PM EDT
To: "'Tom Householder'" <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
Reply-To: <Undiscovered.Classics at gmail.com>

Hi Tom.? Thanks for sending my way.? Stay healthy out there?. ?Geoff ? ?From:?Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>?
Sent:?Sunday, April 12, 2020 7:07 PM
To:?Undiscovered.Classics at gmail.com
Subject:?FYI ? ?http://britishcarlinks.com ? ? ?New mystery car!

????????????From down under comes this very interesting mystery car. If you know what it is the owner can be reached via the link below.?"I have just purchased this a?Triumph based sports racing car in Australia it is believed to be a early 60s car, the body appears to be to well made to be a one off (but always possible). I am looking for any information people may have, unfortunately the previous owner has passed away and his family know very little about this car any information you or your website may have would be appreciated , I hope to rebuild it and race it in historic racing but to do so I need to establish more information about it to have them accept it. photos can be viewed on the attached link, the car is all there (just disassembled) bar one side of the front suspension. which appears to be standard so it should not be a problem to replace.?http://users.tpg.com.au/normv/RACECAR/RACECAR.html.

Thanks?
Norm Vesty"

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 10:31:10 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 09:31:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>

I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the
tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is
there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.


Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 10:33:50 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 09:33:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFX5aCvsSbmiXQQUZMww+Q68=Tq7VSLL+tgim7z6UDAaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <2714E454-A565-4773-A269-4CCF9ACB4DF4@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <0f0ce20a-c44a-1b65-f649-354479e98efb@verizon.net>
 <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEuSrqrNKwSHhuJMfceKghhZe3g-AUTw33r1tPm8LJOfQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks ever so much. I just placed an order at Amazon for Workman's Fiend.
I should have been using this type of stuff years back.

Sujit

On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 9:43 PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, when I
> was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.  It looks like their
> packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.
>
> As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any of
> my own.
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
>
> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.  I use it regularly
>> when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
>> white tube with blue and red text  $9USD...tube will last years
>>
>> rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>>
>> ptegler
>> On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>
>> The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of
>> dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I still
>> use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>>
>> Jonmac
>>
>> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>> Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>>
>>
>> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and
>> working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our
>> hands. We used the term barrier cream.
>>
>> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general
>> creams.
>>
>> Sujit
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sujit Roy
>> Cupertino, California
>>
>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>>
>> --
>> Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Apr 15 10:54:08 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 12:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0579A378-4664-4B44-89A5-00EDB8775BF9@aol.com>

I tried that - it leaves you with all the disadvantages of the ballasts - I ended up replacing all the fixtures anyway and wish I had just done that to start with.
Cheers 
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:47 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
> 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Apr 15 10:54:08 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 12:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0579A378-4664-4B44-89A5-00EDB8775BF9@aol.com>

I tried that - it leaves you with all the disadvantages of the ballasts - I ended up replacing all the fixtures anyway and wish I had just done that to start with.
Cheers 
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:47 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
> 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Apr 15 10:57:57 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:57:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0a81aaa1-25df-6bcb-017d-11f16ec40f61@porterscustom.com>

I just replaced 24 fixtures with 8' single contact LED's . No ballast 
needed... can reuse some of your original wiring. Several brands on 
Amazon.. only drawback is they create static on radio broadcast...

On 4/15/2020 10:31 AM, Sujit Roy wrote:
> I have regular?florescent?tube? lights in my garage and want to 
> replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the 
> fixtures) Is there anything?I need to look out for. I think mine have 
> ballasts in each.
>
>
> Sujit
>
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 11:02:36 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:02:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <0579A378-4664-4B44-89A5-00EDB8775BF9@aol.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <0579A378-4664-4B44-89A5-00EDB8775BF9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHDinJRJHfabWddOppc618GF=7a=2za=fD2GaePm+K8LA@mail.gmail.com>

I just went  to Amazon. seems that the ballast needs to be disconnected or
as u say get new fixtures


Sujit

On Wed, Apr 15, 2020 at 9:54 AM Jack McGahey <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

> I tried that - it leaves you with all the disadvantages of the ballasts -
> I ended up replacing all the fixtures anyway and wish I had just done that
> to start with.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:47 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace
> the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is
> there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>
>
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
>
>

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From ryel at mac.com  Wed Apr 15 11:04:34 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 17:04:34 -0000
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
Message-ID: <37e6b39d-5423-4143-a592-d33967459194@me.com>

Hi Roy,

I bought some of the LED bulbs at Costco that are designed to go into the traditional florescent fixtures. ?My florescent bulbs haven't failed yet so I haven't swapped them out, but on the package of LED bulbs it says no modifications necessary. ?I'll double check the instructions on the box but I think you're good to go.

One thing I did discover with the swap out of florescent fixtures with the LED fixtures from Costco, both with the 110 outlet so you can daisy chain them together. ?With the florescent fixture, I have one close to the garage door opening, and often times I'll plug in my shop vac into?that one when I'm vacuuming out my truck. ?I swapped it out with an LED fixture and it did NOT like that power load when I fired up the shopvac and blew out the fixture. ?No reset button so it was Done. ?DOA. ?Costco swapped it out, but put the florescent fixture back in that spot.

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 15, 2020 at 9:48 AM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

I have regular?florescent?tube? lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything?I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.


Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 15 11:02:09 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:02:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>


My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.

Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
"watt equivalent" ratings.

You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.

FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg

-- Randall

> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want 
> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to 
> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out 
> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.


From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 11:10:41 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:10:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] old gasoline
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHAfKZPv2Sxjm2ZAG=Y6w8uaYv6Ksb5HzBjHGq2HKjghQ@mail.gmail.com>

 I soaked a clutch slave cylinder , along with the seals, in  a bath of 7
year old gas
 for 24 hours. On removal, the cylinder seems to be coated with some sticky
residue on it.

I normally soak stuff in gas to remove grime and stuff but usuall remove
rubber.

Is this expected for 7 year old or more gas? is it happening because of the
rubber int he gas?

 Is this stuff causing problems to my tank and fuel lines?

Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Apr 15 11:15:46 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 10:15:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHDinJRJHfabWddOppc618GF=7a=2za=fD2GaePm+K8LA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <0579A378-4664-4B44-89A5-00EDB8775BF9@aol.com>
 <CANLCLaHDinJRJHfabWddOppc618GF=7a=2za=fD2GaePm+K8LA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <367AC34C-A382-4FB9-8CE5-25DCD9118275@mac.com>


There are ones that work with a ballast, and ones that need the ballast removed.  I like this place for bulbs (NFI):

https://www.1000bulbs.com <https://www.1000bulbs.com/>

-Darrell

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I just went  to Amazon. seems that the ballast needs to be disconnected or as u say get new fixtures
> 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> On Wed, Apr 15, 2020 at 9:54 AM Jack McGahey <McGaheyRx at aol.com <mailto:McGaheyRx at aol.com>> wrote:
> I tried that - it leaves you with all the disadvantages of the ballasts - I ended up replacing all the fixtures anyway and wish I had just done that to start with.
> Cheers 
> Jack Mc
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:47 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>> 
>> 
>> Sujit
>> 
>> -- 
>> Sujit Roy
>> Cupertino, California
>> 
>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ <https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/>
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com>
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ <https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/>
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com>
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 11:59:07 2020
From: tfansher at comcast.net (Thomas Fansher)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:59:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCp7HwZHoKFAt3_nHJ2wJpsN2uPegU0HWeNf9qzPDfiQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C15F5AC-0141-4A76-9905-BB034ED088D5@comcast.net>

I learned a trick a long time ago.  Before working on the TR3, I?d lather up my hands with a bar of ?normal? bath soap - really make a thick lather and just work it into all the creases and nail beds, etc. of my hands and wrists.  Not rinsing it off, just keep working it into the skin until it was all ?absorbed?and the hands are dry.  Then work on the car as usual.  The after cleanup was MUCH easier and I had no problem with dry skin.  Might be worth a try.
Tom

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:43 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, when I was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.  It looks like their packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.
> 
> As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any of my own.
> 
> Don
> Saint Louis
> 1962 TR3B
> 
>> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>> Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.  I use it regularly when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
>> white tube with blue and red text  $9USD...tube will last years
>> 
>> rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>> 
>> ptegler
>> 
>> On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>> The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>>> 
>>> Jonmac
>>> 
>>> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>>> Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>>> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream. 
>>>> 
>>>> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams. 
>>>> 
>>>> Sujit
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Sujit Roy
>>>> Cupertino, California
>>>> 
>>>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>> -- 
>> Paul Tegler
>> ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 12:08:30 2020
From: tfansher at comcast.net (Tom Fansher)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:08:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Barrier cream
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEuSrqrNKwSHhuJMfceKghhZe3g-AUTw33r1tPm8LJOfQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEuSrqrNKwSHhuJMfceKghhZe3g-AUTw33r1tPm8LJOfQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B80F3779-C6A7-4064-A662-8E629E14CBDE@comcast.net>



Sent from my iPhone

>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:53 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> ?
> Thanks ever so much. I just placed an order at Amazon for Workman's Fiend. I should have been using this type of stuff years back. 
> 
> Sujit
> 
>>> On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 9:43 PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I had a tube of Pro-Tek Invisible Glove in my lab forty yesrs ago, when I was working with our forum friend Tom Householder.  It looks like their packaging hasn?t changed *at all* in that time.
>> 
>> As I recall, the stuff worked OK, but I was never motivated to buy any of my own.
>> 
>> Don
>> Saint Louis
>> 1962 TR3B
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, April 14, 2020, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>>> Invisible Glove.....is the name of the product I use.  I use it regularly when I know I'm going to get really dirty/greasy
>>> white tube with blue and red text  $9USD...tube will last years
>>> 
>>> rub it in, let it dry,,, washes dirt right off without effort.
>>> 
>>> ptegler
>>> 
>>> On 4/14/2020 6:29 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>>> The barrier cream you used in the U.K. was to combat the onset of dermatitis and also to make it much easier when washing your hands. I still use it as I can?t cope with latex gloves.
>>>> 
>>>> Jonmac
>>>> 
>>>> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>>>> Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>>>> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On 14 Apr 2020, at 23:18, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> I remember while going to school in the UK and before entering  and working our projects in the machine shop we used to apply a cream to our hands. We used the term barrier cream. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Is there such a thing in US? A google search comes up with general creams. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sujit
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> Sujit Roy
>>>>> Cupertino, California
>>>>> 
>>>>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>>> 
>>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>>> 
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>>> -- 
>>> Paul Tegler
>>> ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 12:12:36 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:12:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Florescent Lights
Message-ID: <D6AFEFED-63AD-4069-96C9-1852229D6471@comcast.net>

	I have started using the 4? Harbor Freight LED lights.  They are single tube, but very bright  about 3000K, and economical $20.00 on sale.
	Best,
	Bob

From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Wed Apr 15 12:22:39 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 11:22:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d61352$dabd8db0$9038a910$@cox.net>

I looked into it and the price of the entire LED fixture was like $19/ea.  At the time, the T8 Tube LED was $12/ea.  The incremental added cost to update my whole shop was $90.

 

I did the calculation on the supposed lifespan of the fixture, and they were going to last something like 45 years.

 

Seemed like a good idea to simply replace them for the $

 

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2020 9:31 AM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements

 

I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.

 

 

Sujit


 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From pethier7 at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 12:28:30 2020
From: pethier7 at gmail.com (Phil Ethier)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:28:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
Message-ID: <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>

I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED. 

It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
> 
> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
> "watt equivalent" ratings.
> 
> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
> 
> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
> https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg
> 
> -- Randall
> 
>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want 
>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to 
>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out 
>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Apr 15 12:36:30 2020
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:36:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
 <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>

How do they work in cold weather?? My fluorescent lights really really 
don't like the cold.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
> I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.
>
> It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
>> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
>> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
>> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
>> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
>> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
>> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
>>
>> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
>> "watt equivalent" ratings.
>>
>> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
>> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
>>
>> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
>> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
>> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
>> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
>> https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg
>>
>> -- Randall
>>
>>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want
>>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
>>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
>>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 12:46:31 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 11:46:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ways to prevent metal from rusting without using paint
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHjd4dBpAUJHj6NrqaT28DWCWqBP=mwUX20FH6LyjKg2w@mail.gmail.com>

I'm painting my brake,clutch and accelerator pedals. I have so much time
between projects.  I even filed down the welding spatter on them. I'm so
proud of my gas pedal, It looks like a dental instrument.
The pedals are held in place with  clevis pins. I cant paint them else they
wont fit. Is there and new technology out there I can apply to the pins?
The pin for the brake and clutch pedal  on the Stag is about 8 inches in
length and 3/4" diameter.

 Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 15 12:47:41 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:47:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <77A717D0-C360-4849-B6C7-1CA0F24F035F@yahoo.com>

Another good thing Tony, no blinking in cold weather.  

I converted my shop from 8? fluorescents to linked pairs of dual LED($45ea at Lowe?s) they come with connections to chain them together.  Twice the light and no hum. 

My only complaint is that one of them is blinking like a bad fluorescent, don?t know why, have swapped the LED out and the fixture still blinks.  It?s in the back so it doesn?t bother me.....much.  

Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:36 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

?How do they work in cold weather?  My fluorescent lights really really don't like the cold.

Regards, Tony Drews

> On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
> I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.
> 
> It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
>> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
>> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
>> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
>> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
>> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
>> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
>> 
>> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
>> "watt equivalent" ratings.
>> 
>> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
>> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
>> 
>> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
>> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
>> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
>> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
>> https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg
>> 
>> -- Randall
>> 
>>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want
>>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
>>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
>>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 15 12:47:41 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:47:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <77A717D0-C360-4849-B6C7-1CA0F24F035F@yahoo.com>

Another good thing Tony, no blinking in cold weather.  

I converted my shop from 8? fluorescents to linked pairs of dual LED($45ea at Lowe?s) they come with connections to chain them together.  Twice the light and no hum. 

My only complaint is that one of them is blinking like a bad fluorescent, don?t know why, have swapped the LED out and the fixture still blinks.  It?s in the back so it doesn?t bother me.....much.  

Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 15, 2020, at 1:36 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

?How do they work in cold weather?  My fluorescent lights really really don't like the cold.

Regards, Tony Drews

> On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
> I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.
> 
> It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
>> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
>> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
>> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
>> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
>> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
>> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
>> 
>> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
>> "watt equivalent" ratings.
>> 
>> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
>> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
>> 
>> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
>> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
>> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
>> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
>> https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg
>> 
>> -- Randall
>> 
>>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want
>>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
>>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
>>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com


From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 13:02:19 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:02:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
 <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>
 <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abH68vEGs5SuyyGLtmc6X8aQGO7s4MoZzupDM5-yQi3SQ@mail.gmail.com>

The cheap ("Tool Shop" brand I think) LED bars I got from Menards, fuzzy
recollection about $20 or less each and rated for the cold, once again
fuzzy recall, but zero or a little below, no problems in my shop last
winter to around 10f inside temps.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 1:36 PM Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> How do they work in cold weather?  My fluorescent lights really really
> don't like the cold.
>
> Regards, Tony Drews
>
> On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
> > I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.
> >
> > It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units
> from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
> >> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with
> LED
> >> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my
> old
> >> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
> >> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with
> the
> >> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the
> ballasts,
> >> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
> >>
> >> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
> >> "watt equivalent" ratings.
> >>
> >> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
> >> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
> >>
> >> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't
> have
> >> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old
> fixtures).
> >> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility
> yet,
> >> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
> >> https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg
> >>
> >> -- Randall
> >>
> >>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want
> >>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
> >>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
> >>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Wed Apr 15 13:22:14 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 19:22:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] Traffic
Message-ID: <31D4F16A-5707-4674-835D-7094E588D4A0@albiontechnical.com>

Seems to me that we are seeing a whole lot more traffic on the mailing list these last few weeks. It?s just like the old days!  I like it. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Wed Apr 15 13:24:40 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 19:24:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
 <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>,
 <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <8F3F9345-7A9D-4FF1-93D9-E16B4A19935C@albiontechnical.com>

I have installed a bunch of new LED ?dusk to dawn? fixtures and they are fine in all temperatures. I can heartily recommend them. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 13:36, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> 
> ?How do they work in cold weather?  My fluorescent lights really really don't like the cold.
> 
> Regards, Tony Drews
> 
>> On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
>> I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.
>> 
>> It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts.  They waste power and may
>>> fail in the future.  I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
>>> bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
>>> fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
>>> place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
>>> original fluorescent bulbs).  Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
>>> look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.
>>> 
>>> Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
>>> "watt equivalent" ratings.
>>> 
>>> You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
>>> high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.
>>> 
>>> FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
>>> to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
>>> 4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K.  Haven't finished the new facility yet,
>>> but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__i.imgur.com_RhRoHF1.jpg&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=3cAkd7B0uPSR6VwHIwB7gaYe9wlu6NMnDEo-4cUWmQY&e=
>>> 
>>> -- Randall
>>> 
>>>> I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want
>>>> to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
>>>> replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
>>>> for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=eFRaXRqL5_fU1rLOYdjpoQ_U0-E9VvWpTgh8rrN4V94&e=
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>>> 
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>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=eFRaXRqL5_fU1rLOYdjpoQ_U0-E9VvWpTgh8rrN4V94&e=
>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=rD528nxc9yJ_QusVRAKKZAoaRnxjXbKLFhmYxcz6RRY&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=ZUfx0Paj5nDTBOdWm5U58ZK10AwtwIrkwKuExT84Ic8&e=
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_tony-40tonydrews.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=2--IboBkNxMtp91DYScTfuiNvWXv35Wwc-ojYiIp2sk&e=
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=Ak9-YsJM9q7roMFRJwLuRAJO7jnc7H91ChC7COt4Vo8&s=eFRaXRqL5_fU1rLOYdjpoQ_U0-E9VvWpTgh8rrN4V94&e=
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> 
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From ryel at mac.com  Wed Apr 15 13:27:38 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 19:27:38 -0000
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
Message-ID: <0387dd19-9614-4e03-b6ea-6bd0e6bc46a9@me.com>

LEDs work just fine in cold and sub freezing temps




On April 15, 2020 at 11:36 AM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

How do they work in cold weather?? My fluorescent lights really really 
don't like the cold.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 4/15/2020 1:28 PM, Phil Ethier wrote:
I had tons of problems trying to replace tubes with LED.

It was cheaper to recycle the tubes and fixtures then buy new LED units from Menards. They work great, look better, and create no hassle.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:


My suggestion would be to bypass the ballasts. They waste power and may
fail in the future. I've also found some that didn't want to work with LED
bulbs, even the ones that say they will work with a ballast. One of my old
fixtures apparently failed the first time it was powered up with LEDs in
place; it had been working before but didn't work afterwards (even with the
original fluorescent bulbs). Of course, if you don't bypass the ballasts,
look for the bulbs that say they will work with a ballast.

Watch out for lumen ratings, some of the LED bulbs are cheating on their
"watt equivalent" ratings.

You might want to look at color temperature too; I don't like the really
high ones. 4000 or 5000K is ok with me, but I really hate 7000 or 8000.

FWIW, I went with new fixtures (price was about the same and I didn't have
to mess with rewiring and so on, plus I didn't have enough old fixtures).
4200 lumens per 4' fixture, 5000K. Haven't finished the new facility yet,
but I'm really happy with what I've got up so far.
https://i.imgur.com/RhRoHF1.jpg

-- Randall

I have regular florescent tube lights in my garage and want
to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to
replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out
for. I think mine have ballasts in each.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7 at gmail.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From john at linneyweb.com  Wed Apr 15 13:31:05 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 12:31:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ways to prevent metal from rusting without using paint
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHjd4dBpAUJHj6NrqaT28DWCWqBP=mwUX20FH6LyjKg2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHjd4dBpAUJHj6NrqaT28DWCWqBP=mwUX20FH6LyjKg2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4E5718A-E09D-4B7A-82BF-517043BF8F5E@linneyweb.com>

You could buy stainless steel pins. Harder to bend but they won?t rust. 

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 11:46 AM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I'm painting my brake,clutch and accelerator pedals. I have so much time between projects.  I even filed down the welding spatter on them. I'm so proud of my gas pedal, It looks like a dental instrument. 
> The pedals are held in place with  clevis pins. I cant paint them else they wont fit. Is there and new technology out there I can apply to the pins? The pin for the brake and clutch pedal  on the Stag is about 8 inches in length and 3/4" diameter. 
> 
>  Sujit
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Apr 15 14:23:15 2020
From: tfansher at comcast.net (Tom Fansher)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 16:23:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Florescent Lights
In-Reply-To: <D6AFEFED-63AD-4069-96C9-1852229D6471@comcast.net>
References: <D6AFEFED-63AD-4069-96C9-1852229D6471@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <85C83778-AB66-4510-BDFF-993C9AC03F2B@comcast.net>

If you have the fixture, the LED tubes I got ran a little less than $10.00 each. So worth converting them if you have the time. Probably less than 15 minutes each double fixture after you?ve done a couple. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 2:12 PM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?    I have started using the 4? Harbor Freight LED lights.  They are single tube, but very bright  about 3000K, and economical $20.00 on sale.
>    Best,
>    Bob
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 15 15:20:37 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 14:20:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <B028CB27C73E4AEC9713CE9D45E1C092@RYPC>
 <89A05E1E-FC2A-4E02-93D6-52DA0A476304@gmail.com>
 <9c99ebad-74e4-1db9-6b02-b00caf8fb7d5@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <630001E44FA24B588CB0545424139572@RYPC>

Both the cheap single tube fixture from Menards ($20 on sale) and the double
tube fixtures I've been buying on Amazon ($200 for a case of 10) had no
trouble at all lighting up when they were probably around 20F.  (Overnight
low was 16F, but it had started to warm up outside before I got to the new
shop.)

However, one of the other cheap fixtures I bought (at Rural King IIRC) and
put in my brother-in-law's shed 2 or 3 years ago has failed already.  It
flashes on and off (like a fluorescent that can't get started) no matter
what the weather is.

-- Randall

> How do they work in cold weather?? My fluorescent lights 
> really really don't like the cold.
> 


From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 16:22:01 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 15:22:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Age of a Triumph owner ( light homor)
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFYCHN3duMk8N2uTsFkUjU_tfbB=+US0SBH+ixVXeL8Ag@mail.gmail.com>

Just some light humor.

My son just 3D printed me some bushes / spacers which I can use under the
front seats of my Stag. These are used to raise the seat a little to clear
the carpet. The 3D printer is borrowed. He asked me how many I need. I said
8 per car. I have two Stags, (1 running, 1 work in progress)  so I need
16.  I need another 8 for Stag no. 3 to which he said I'll never get Stag
no. 3 on the road. (stag no. 3 is a parts car) I mentioned there are 2 80+
year old Stag owners on  the Stag list I'm a mere 54 year old so in theory
I have at least 25 years to go to get it on the road.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From 75270.3703 at earthlink.net  Wed Apr 15 17:17:05 2020
From: 75270.3703 at earthlink.net (scott smart)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 13:17:05 -1000
Subject: [TR] LED Florescent Lights
In-Reply-To: <85C83778-AB66-4510-BDFF-993C9AC03F2B@comcast.net>
References: <D6AFEFED-63AD-4069-96C9-1852229D6471@comcast.net>
 <85C83778-AB66-4510-BDFF-993C9AC03F2B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <83c672cb-3d9e-3bb3-c501-75bd0226dc13@earthlink.net>

I relamped some 8 ft HO fixtures.? I could only get LED replacements for 
these online.? I just removed the ballasts and rewired the existing 
fixtures so the 110 went right to the tombstones.? For these LEDs they 
are in a plastic tube and they seem to sag a bit but haven't fallen out 
or anything.? For 4 footers I have been using the direct replacement LEDs.


scott s.

.



From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Apr 15 18:34:16 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 20:34:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004c01d61386$c3770170$4a650450$@charter.net>

About 20 years ago, when we did a total make-over of our shop, I decided to go with 8?, High Output Fluorescents. You can see them in the attached pictures. (Please excuse how disorganized the place looks) Over the years, they have worked extremely well, with about half of the fixtures with their original tubes. Over the last several years, several of the original magnetic (big & heavy) ballasts have burned out and the replacement ballasts (electronic and ?energy saving?) have been installed at a cost of about $45 each which is probably more than the original fixtures. The replacement ballasts often don?t start the lamps and require several on/off cycles to get the tubes lit. Also, there is some weird interference on the radio when other electronic devices are running such as battery chargers and LED night lights that can be attributed to these replacement ballasts. By the way, don?t tell me to stop listening to AM radio! My brother has the same issue, even on FM radio!

 

I did a little research on my options and I ended up more confused than ever. F96T12 HO lamps have a unique bi-pin terminal that is specific to them. It is not the same as the 48? bi-pin or the 96? single pin on non-HO lamps. I found that there is so much conflicting information on which way to go with replacement LED lamps. If there was an LED tube that would fit these fixtures, that would be great - especially if the old ballasts were eliminated. But some LEDs require a ?driver? and others can be installed directly. At the same time, my fixtures are 20 years old. The spring loaded tombstones are showing some blackening at each end and that may be indicative of some arcing. Looking at replacement LED fixtures, we?re talking about some serious money. I have about 30 8? Fluorescents right now. As the saying goes, that?s a lot of six-packs!

 

The other concern that I have is when you specify or buy an F96T12 High Output Cool White, you know exactly what the light volume (lumens) and color rendition will be like. I think the LED scene is more wild west in nature. Some LEDs have a very narrow wavelength so the color rendition can be weird. Think of mercury vapor, high pressure sodium and low pressure sodium lights often used in parking lots that make colors non-existent. Also, I have seen many LED fixtures that produce hot spots rather than a good distribution of light. I chose the open strip fluorescents years ago since I knew I would have a painted ceiling that would act as the reflector. 

 

Another thing to consider is when the LED elements either burn out or go bad, do you have to replace the whole fixture or can you find just the lamp. I remember the first of the compact fluorescents that had a screw in ballast and then a 2-pin or a 4-pin tube that would get pushed into the ballast. I bet those things are now considered unobtanium. (Which is probably a good thing ? they were horrible)

 

I guess one avenue would be to visit a new shop somewhere (like a tire shop or a dealership) where they installed LEDs and if you like them, ask about where they came from. Remember, high-bay fixtures are for ceilings 16? and higher (about) and low bay fixtures take care of the lower ceilings. I must admit, I am a proponent of purchasing capital goods such as light fixtures from a reputable distributor that are made by a reputable manufacturer. 

 

Another thing that I did years ago was to split up the lighting banks so I would only need to turn on what I needed. With electric rates in Connecticut at about 20 cents per KWH, things do add up over a full day in the shop! Plus, at about 2.5 amp each, I knew that I only could have about 6 ? 7 fixtures per circuit so I wouldn?t be drawing more than 80% of a 20 amp circuit. The extra lights you see over the work bench have worked well. Sight is the other thing that doesn?t work as well as you get older! One thing we do is take all of the tubes out and wash them every year or two. You can?t believe how dirty they get, especially on the top.

 

I admit that when a ballast goes bad in the bank that I use the most, I?ll swipe an older magnetic ballast from the part of the shop that isn?t used as much and that is where the new, ?improved? ballast goes.

 

Hope this helps, or at least, renders more investigation.

 

Alex Thomson 

 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2020 12:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements

 

I have regular florescent tube  lights in my garage and want to replace the tubes with LED equivalents. ( I don't want to replace the fixtures) Is there anything I need to look out for. I think mine have ballasts in each.

 

 

Sujit


 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Apr 15 18:35:43 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 20:35:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Age of a Triumph owner ( light homor)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFYCHN3duMk8N2uTsFkUjU_tfbB=+US0SBH+ixVXeL8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFYCHN3duMk8N2uTsFkUjU_tfbB=+US0SBH+ixVXeL8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005201d61386$f74e0840$e5ea18c0$@charter.net>

Absolutely! Think positive! And I don?t mean positive earth!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2020 6:22 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Age of a Triumph owner ( light homor)

 

Just some light humor.

My son just 3D printed me some bushes / spacers which I can use under the front seats of my Stag. These are used to raise the seat a little to clear the carpet. The 3D printer is borrowed. He asked me how many I need. I said 8 per car. I have two Stags, (1 running, 1 work in progress)  so I need 16.  I need another 8 for Stag no. 3 to which he said I'll never get Stag no. 3 on the road. (stag no. 3 is a parts car) I mentioned there are 2 80+ year old Stag owners on  the Stag list I'm a mere 54 year old so in theory I have at least 25 years to go to get it on the road.

Sujit


 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From john at linneyweb.com  Wed Apr 15 19:48:32 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 18:48:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Age of a Triumph owner ( light homor)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFYCHN3duMk8N2uTsFkUjU_tfbB=+US0SBH+ixVXeL8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFYCHN3duMk8N2uTsFkUjU_tfbB=+US0SBH+ixVXeL8Ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <095E5399-567B-49B1-8828-F1BF7BBC8D9D@linneyweb.com>

It won?t take 25 years. It will just seem like it.


> On Apr 15, 2020, at 3:45 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Just some light humor.
> 
> My son just 3D printed me some bushes / spacers which I can use under the front seats of my Stag. These are used to raise the seat a little to clear the carpet. The 3D printer is borrowed. He asked me how many I need. I said 8 per car. I have two Stags, (1 running, 1 work in progress)  so I need 16.  I need another 8 for Stag no. 3 to which he said I'll never get Stag no. 3 on the road. (stag no. 3 is a parts car) I mentioned there are 2 80+ year old Stag owners on  the Stag list I'm a mere 54 year old so in theory I have at least 25 years to go to get it on the road.
> 
> Sujit
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 15 19:43:46 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 18:43:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED tube florescent light replacements
In-Reply-To: <004c01d61386$c3770170$4a650450$@charter.net>
References: <CANLCLaGSE0yCELYjX533csmxdsiZ8uVE1eAq4wgzO-hryn4vCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <004c01d61386$c3770170$4a650450$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <3C0EEE6678764EFC87908B20A241ECF9@RYPC>


> I think the LED scene is more wild west in nature. Some LEDs 
> have a very narrow wavelength so the color rendition can be 
> weird. 

Look for the color rendering index or CRI.  It should be published for any
quality lamp and you can compare the number to your old bulbs.  I looked up
some F96T12HO/CW bulbs and they say CRI 60, while the LEDs I got have a CRI
of 80.  80 still isn't great, I wouldn't want to use them for photography
lighting, but it's pretty good.  (100 is perfect)

> Another thing to consider is when the LED elements either 
> burn out or go bad, do you have to replace the whole fixture 
> or can you find just the lamp.

I have not seen an LED fixture that had replaceable LEDs.  But with a
typical advertised lifetime of 50,000 hours, do you really need to replace
just the LEDs?  If you run them 8 hours/day, 7 days/week, that works out to
about 17 years.  By then, they will probably have better lights anyway.

> I remember the first of the 
> compact fluorescents that had a screw in ballast and then a 
> 2-pin or a 4-pin tube that would get pushed into the ballast. 
> I bet those things are now considered unobtanium. (Which is 
> probably a good thing - they were horrible)

I had some of those; but the ballast died before the third bulb did.  Think
I've still got a couple of bulbs, but the bare bulbs cost more than a bulb +
ballast does now.

-- Randall 


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 15 20:46:26 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 02:46:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Traffic
In-Reply-To: <31D4F16A-5707-4674-835D-7094E588D4A0@albiontechnical.com>
References: <31D4F16A-5707-4674-835D-7094E588D4A0@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <159864690.914143.1587005186120@mail.yahoo.com>

 yes,and i see all across the tv, road signs, radio, interviews that every one in america has been a fan of red green.
his finishing line of "remember, we are all in this together" has become very popular.
frank fisher
    On Wednesday, April 15, 2020, 12:22:31 PM PDT, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:  
 
 Seems to me that we are seeing a whole lot more traffic on the mailing list these last few weeks. It?s just like the old days!? I like it. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Wed Apr 15 22:09:43 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 04:09:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Traffic
In-Reply-To: <159864690.914143.1587005186120@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <31D4F16A-5707-4674-835D-7094E588D4A0@albiontechnical.com>,
 <159864690.914143.1587005186120@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3D92BC69-8ADA-4718-992F-DD2AA8D475D6@albiontechnical.com>

Good old Red Green!  I hope you are well, my scouser friend!

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2020, at 21:46, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

?
yes,
and i see all across the tv, road signs, radio, interviews that every one in america has been a fan of red green.

his finishing line of "remember, we are all in this together" has become very popular.

frank fisher

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020, 12:22:31 PM PDT, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:


Seems to me that we are seeing a whole lot more traffic on the mailing list these last few weeks. It?s just like the old days!  I like it.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=YR2ZqwGj7Zo2C-yt3QUBH5aoBlZNxWL23aumdGkLOtY&m=-lvPSKNILBz1BY90g4-PuH82W5WqNHMlMLyLufOOyGs&s=Qgi7Prsx3cEJYv4LApM2JhKVOrEcE0MWWg-Eu17ZLQI&e=>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 15 23:20:29 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 22:20:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake fluids again
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>

I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have  this brake
fluid

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-oz.html
which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic, will it absorb
water?

I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic. Is the buzz
word synthetic?


https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-oz.html


Another thing. I was always told to get small sealed bottles and open when
needed. Is this the case with synthetic fluid?

My car wont go on the road anytime soon but I don't want the brakes and
clutch to seize up and rust.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From dblambert at cox.net  Wed Apr 15 23:36:15 2020
From: dblambert at cox.net (Dennis and Bridget)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 22:36:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Traffic
In-Reply-To: <3D92BC69-8ADA-4718-992F-DD2AA8D475D6@albiontechnical.com>
References: <31D4F16A-5707-4674-835D-7094E588D4A0@albiontechnical.com>
 <159864690.914143.1587005186120@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3D92BC69-8ADA-4718-992F-DD2AA8D475D6@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <F13AB691-08BE-407D-ABC5-C0233206AEFC@cox.net>

Keep yer stick on the ice?.

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 9:09 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
> 
> Good old Red Green!  I hope you are well, my scouser friend!
> 
> Mike
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2020, at 21:46, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> yes,
>> and i see all across the tv, road signs, radio, interviews that every one in america has been a fan of red green.
>> 
>> his finishing line of "remember, we are all in this together" has become very popular.
>> 
>> frank fisher
>> 
>> On Wednesday, April 15, 2020, 12:22:31 PM PDT, Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Seems to me that we are seeing a whole lot more traffic on the mailing list these last few weeks. It?s just like the old days!  I like it. 
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=YR2ZqwGj7Zo2C-yt3QUBH5aoBlZNxWL23aumdGkLOtY&m=-lvPSKNILBz1BY90g4-PuH82W5WqNHMlMLyLufOOyGs&s=Qgi7Prsx3cEJYv4LApM2JhKVOrEcE0MWWg-Eu17ZLQI&e=>
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>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_yellowtr3-40yahoo.com&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=YR2ZqwGj7Zo2C-yt3QUBH5aoBlZNxWL23aumdGkLOtY&m=-lvPSKNILBz1BY90g4-PuH82W5WqNHMlMLyLufOOyGs&s=IRL1qRXdlPs-2ee78tu1SrDvv1jdGYr3dVw1BDKHdPY&e=>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 15 23:55:40 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2020 22:55:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>

All brake fluid is "synthetic" whether it says so on the can or not.  It's
not made from petroleum distillate.

Yes, DOT 4 will absorb water, eat paint and so on.  Castrol claims theirs
absorbs slower than others (the "LMA"), but it still absorbs.

DOT 5 is a completely different chemistry, a silicone oil rather than the
glycols used in DOT 3, 4 and 5.1.  It does not absorb water, eat paint,
become corrosive over time, etc.  

Look for the word "silicone" on the label.  DOT 5 must have it, the others
cannot have it.

The word "synthetic" is totally meaningless for brake fluid.

FWIW, both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.

-- Randall 

> I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have 
>  this brake fluid 
> 
> https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-
> oz.html  
> 
> which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic, 
> will it absorb water? 
> 
> I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic. 
> Is the buzz word synthetic? 


From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Thu Apr 16 06:33:32 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 12:33:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re:  Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>,
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello All,

Thank you Randall for this valuable and important clarification.

I am in the process of replacing just the rotors, calipers and two of the flexible brake lines to teh calipers. Can I drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5?

Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?

Randall Reihing
1959 TR3A

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 1:55 AM
To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Brake fluids again

All brake fluid is "synthetic" whether it says so on the can or not.  It's
not made from petroleum distillate.

Yes, DOT 4 will absorb water, eat paint and so on.  Castrol claims theirs
absorbs slower than others (the "LMA"), but it still absorbs.

DOT 5 is a completely different chemistry, a silicone oil rather than the
glycols used in DOT 3, 4 and 5.1.  It does not absorb water, eat paint,
become corrosive over time, etc.

Look for the word "silicone" on the label.  DOT 5 must have it, the others
cannot have it.

The word "synthetic" is totally meaningless for brake fluid.

FWIW, both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.

-- Randall

> I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have
>  this brake fluid
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$
> oz.html
>
> which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic,
> will it absorb water?
>
> I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic.
> Is the buzz word synthetic?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$
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From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Apr 16 07:48:38 2020
From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 07:48:38 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>, 
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <46231071.2482.1587044918421@myemail.cox.net>

I converted to DOT5 in both my Spits.  I just purged the system both times and the only thing I had to rebuild is one caliper which began to seep a little.  It has been 19 years on one car and a year on the second.


Joe

> On April 16, 2020 at 6:33 AM "Reihing, Randall S." <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:
> 
>     Hello All,
> 
>     Thank you Randall for this valuable and important clarification. 
> 
>     I am in the process of replacing just the rotors, calipers and two of the flexible brake lines to teh calipers. Can I drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5? 
> 
>     Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?  
> 
>     Randall Reihing
>     1959 TR3A
> 
>      
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>     From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
>     Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 1:55 AM
>     To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Brake fluids again
>      
>     All brake fluid is "synthetic" whether it says so on the can or not.  It's
>     not made from petroleum distillate.
> 
>     Yes, DOT 4 will absorb water, eat paint and so on.  Castrol claims theirs
>     absorbs slower than others (the "LMA"), but it still absorbs.
> 
>     DOT 5 is a completely different chemistry, a silicone oil rather than the
>     glycols used in DOT 3, 4 and 5.1.  It does not absorb water, eat paint,
>     become corrosive over time, etc. 
> 
>     Look for the word "silicone" on the label.  DOT 5 must have it, the others
>     cannot have it.
> 
>     The word "synthetic" is totally meaningless for brake fluid.
> 
>     FWIW, both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.
> 
>     -- Randall
> 
>     > I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have
>     >  this brake fluid
>     >
>     > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$
>     > oz.html 
>     >
>     > which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic,
>     > will it absorb water?
>     >
>     > I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic.
>     > Is the buzz word synthetic?
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$
>     Archive: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OojB5CFg$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OojB5CFg$    https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OFP0OqSc$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OFP0OqSc$
> 
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> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Apr 16 08:02:19 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 10:02:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>, 
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <172777782.88273.1587045739926@connect.xfinity.com>

Making the switch without a complete flush doesn't harm anything.  With DOT 5 you will get improvements in brake/clutch line corrosion resistance, but to maximize it you  might want to blow air through the drained lines to get as much of the old Dot 4 out as possible, since it will cling to the low spots in the lines after you drain the system.  

I've run DOT 5 silicone ever since restoring my 3 in 2006.  Really glad I did.  

> On April 16, 2020 at 8:33 AM "Reihing, Randall S." <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:
> 
>     Hello All,
> 
>     Thank you Randall for this valuable and important clarification. 
> 
>     I am in the process of replacing just the rotors, calipers and two of the flexible brake lines to teh calipers. Can I drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5? 
> 
>     Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?  
> 
>     Randall Reihing
>     1959 TR3A
> 
>      
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>     From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
>     Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 1:55 AM
>     To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Brake fluids again
>      
>     All brake fluid is "synthetic" whether it says so on the can or not.  It's
>     not made from petroleum distillate.
> 
>     Yes, DOT 4 will absorb water, eat paint and so on.  Castrol claims theirs
>     absorbs slower than others (the "LMA"), but it still absorbs.
> 
>     DOT 5 is a completely different chemistry, a silicone oil rather than the
>     glycols used in DOT 3, 4 and 5.1.  It does not absorb water, eat paint,
>     become corrosive over time, etc. 
> 
>     Look for the word "silicone" on the label.  DOT 5 must have it, the others
>     cannot have it.
> 
>     The word "synthetic" is totally meaningless for brake fluid.
> 
>     FWIW, both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.
> 
>     -- Randall
> 
>     > I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have
>     >  this brake fluid
>     >
>     > https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$
>     > oz.html 
>     >
>     > which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic,
>     > will it absorb water?
>     >
>     > I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic.
>     > Is the buzz word synthetic?
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$
>     Archive: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OojB5CFg$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OojB5CFg$    https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OFP0OqSc$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OFP0OqSc$
> 
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>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Thu Apr 16 09:47:43 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 15:47:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <172777782.88273.1587045739926@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>, 
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>,
 <172777782.88273.1587045739926@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB4434529805A97E4651C908F1ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Thank you Terry, Dave and Joe for your kind responses. The plan has now become to convert to DOT 5 along with rebuilding the brake system. I have already installed a new clutch slave cylinder and waiting for a few more parts from Moss. Hoping they will not be down much longer.

Randall Reihing
1959 TR3A
________________________________
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 10:02 AM
To: Reihing, Randall S. <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu>; Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again

Making the switch without a complete flush doesn't harm anything.  With DOT 5 you will get improvements in brake/clutch line corrosion resistance, but to maximize it you  might want to blow air through the drained lines to get as much of the old Dot 4 out as possible, since it will cling to the low spots in the lines after you drain the system.

I've run DOT 5 silicone ever since restoring my 3 in 2006.  Really glad I did.
On April 16, 2020 at 8:33 AM "Reihing, Randall S." <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:

Hello All,

Thank you Randall for this valuable and important clarification.

I am in the process of replacing just the rotors, calipers and two of the flexible brake lines to teh calipers. Can I drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5?

Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?

Randall Reihing
1959 TR3A


________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2020 1:55 AM
To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Brake fluids again

All brake fluid is "synthetic" whether it says so on the can or not.  It's
not made from petroleum distillate.

Yes, DOT 4 will absorb water, eat paint and so on.  Castrol claims theirs
absorbs slower than others (the "LMA"), but it still absorbs.

DOT 5 is a completely different chemistry, a silicone oil rather than the
glycols used in DOT 3, 4 and 5.1.  It does not absorb water, eat paint,
become corrosive over time, etc.

Look for the word "silicone" on the label.  DOT 5 must have it, the others
cannot have it.

The word "synthetic" is totally meaningless for brake fluid.

FWIW, both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.

-- Randall

> I'm rebuild brakes and clutch with new seal on a Stag. I have
>  this brake fluid
>
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.bpnorthwest.com/fluid-brake-clutch-castrol-lma-12-__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OfVfao68$
> oz.html
>
> which says DOT 4 synthetic  (Castrol) . If it is synthetic,
> will it absorb water?
>
> I'm a bit confused as people are saying get DOT5. synthetic.
> Is the buzz word synthetic?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!LoBwcKfm!xQYsagVOFhpKFqJG0WkgFruEWat-p_lygSpuLlqbZWK-6UD6t-0Z-ZXm3e-xQY8OEaR3rck$
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 16 11:29:14 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 10:29:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re:  Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>,
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <C7C7152B51C549569038BEAB0BF9FF3E@RYPC>

This is a debate that has been going on for literally decades.  To be quite
honest, my own opinion has changed somewhat over those decades.

You certainly can convert by just draining, refilling with DOT 5, and
bleeding each corner until you get clean purple fluid.  Although the two
fluids will not mix (kind of like oil and water), they are fully compatible
and can co-exist peacefully in the same system.  And the result, IMO, will
certainly be better than not converting at all.  I've done it myself several
times and always been happy with the result, at least at first.

But, there are two drawbacks that I see to this approach.  One is that there
are little pockets of DOT 3 or 4 that remain in the system and continue to
do what DOT 3/4 does, ie absorb water, deteriorate, and become corrosive.
It also retains it's lower boiling point (which continues to go down with
time).  If you read through the Holbrook paper, they had a test failure (a
73 MB 200) that lost it's brakes during the test, and they attributed that
failure to having only 4% of conventional brake fluid still in the system.
They retested the same car after "properly" converting to DOT 5 (which
presumably means removing that last 4%) and got better results.  

The other is that sometimes, not often and certainly not always, I have seen
sudden failures with "rubber" components that were used for a long time with
DOT 3/4 and are now exposed to DOT 5.  You can certainly argue that they
were old and about to fail anyway; but old seals generally just get hard and
don't seal as well (slow leaks).  They don't turn soft and tear, suddenly
rendering them useless.  

Just for an example of what I'm talking about, I converted Stag #1 to DOT 5
shortly after buying it, by just bleeding through.  Worked great at first,
but months later the brake pedal started sometimes slowly sinking to the
floor at a stop light.  At that time, I didn't want to rebuild the MC
myself, so I made an appointment with a shop in Pomona that was supposedly
familiar with Stags.  On the way to Pomona, within just a few miles of each
other, both cups in the MC failed in the same exact fashion.  They turned as
soft as Gummi Bears, and tore through the base of the seal.  This is not
normal seal wear!

So, my current opinion is that, if the choice is just to "bleed through" or
not convert, it's certainly better to bleed through.  But what John Deere
(my former employer) calls "best practice" is to clean the hard lines and
replace all the seals and hoses with new.  The result is more likely to give
you decades of service with no further problems.

As a side note, DOT 5 also gives a very slightly softer pedal than DOT 3/4
does.  You can compensate for this effect by converting the soft lines to
the "braided SS" lines, which use a much harder tube inside and hence don't
swell as much under pressure.  I got the ones for my TR3 at Tsi in Ohio; the
Stag lines came from Rimmers.  ISTR Ted later told me that they can make
them up for Stags as well.

-- Randall

>  Can I 
> drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5? 
> 
> Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and 
> replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch 
> master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?  
> 


From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 16 13:06:46 2020
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 14:06:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <C7C7152B51C549569038BEAB0BF9FF3E@RYPC>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <C7C7152B51C549569038BEAB0BF9FF3E@RYPC>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCsmN2gC-teMpfQHm6ac0oEemzjxsNQQq+GL9qEj9+QaQ@mail.gmail.com>

Randall (and others), any experience with a solvent flush prior to bleeding
in the DOT5?  ISTR an isopropyl alcohol flush can do a better job of
evacuating residual DOT3 than a wet switch.  Makes sense, but I have no
hard data.

I'm in the process of planning for DOT3 to DOT5 conversion on my car, and
I'm leaning toward leaving the existing rubber seals in place.  If there
are ways to do this that are better than others, it would be good to know.

Don

On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 12:36 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> This is a debate that has been going on for literally decades.  To be quite
> honest, my own opinion has changed somewhat over those decades.
>
> You certainly can convert by just draining, refilling with DOT 5, and
> bleeding each corner until you get clean purple fluid.  Although the two
> fluids will not mix (kind of like oil and water), they are fully compatible
> and can co-exist peacefully in the same system.  And the result, IMO, will
> certainly be better than not converting at all.  I've done it myself
> several
> times and always been happy with the result, at least at first.
>
> But, there are two drawbacks that I see to this approach.  One is that
> there
> are little pockets of DOT 3 or 4 that remain in the system and continue to
> do what DOT 3/4 does, ie absorb water, deteriorate, and become corrosive.
> It also retains it's lower boiling point (which continues to go down with
> time).  If you read through the Holbrook paper, they had a test failure (a
> 73 MB 200) that lost it's brakes during the test, and they attributed that
> failure to having only 4% of conventional brake fluid still in the system.
> They retested the same car after "properly" converting to DOT 5 (which
> presumably means removing that last 4%) and got better results.
>
> The other is that sometimes, not often and certainly not always, I have
> seen
> sudden failures with "rubber" components that were used for a long time
> with
> DOT 3/4 and are now exposed to DOT 5.  You can certainly argue that they
> were old and about to fail anyway; but old seals generally just get hard
> and
> don't seal as well (slow leaks).  They don't turn soft and tear, suddenly
> rendering them useless.
>
> Just for an example of what I'm talking about, I converted Stag #1 to DOT 5
> shortly after buying it, by just bleeding through.  Worked great at first,
> but months later the brake pedal started sometimes slowly sinking to the
> floor at a stop light.  At that time, I didn't want to rebuild the MC
> myself, so I made an appointment with a shop in Pomona that was supposedly
> familiar with Stags.  On the way to Pomona, within just a few miles of each
> other, both cups in the MC failed in the same exact fashion.  They turned
> as
> soft as Gummi Bears, and tore through the base of the seal.  This is not
> normal seal wear!
>
> So, my current opinion is that, if the choice is just to "bleed through" or
> not convert, it's certainly better to bleed through.  But what John Deere
> (my former employer) calls "best practice" is to clean the hard lines and
> replace all the seals and hoses with new.  The result is more likely to
> give
> you decades of service with no further problems.
>
> As a side note, DOT 5 also gives a very slightly softer pedal than DOT 3/4
> does.  You can compensate for this effect by converting the soft lines to
> the "braided SS" lines, which use a much harder tube inside and hence don't
> swell as much under pressure.  I got the ones for my TR3 at Tsi in Ohio;
> the
> Stag lines came from Rimmers.  ISTR Ted later told me that they can make
> them up for Stags as well.
>
> -- Randall
>
> >  Can I
> > drain out the existing DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5?
> >
> > Or do I need to completely flush the entire system and
> > replace all the wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and clutch
> > master and slave cylinder seals when converting from DOT 4 to DOT 5?
> >
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 16 14:23:41 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 13:23:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Brake fluids again
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCsmN2gC-teMpfQHm6ac0oEemzjxsNQQq+GL9qEj9+QaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH1zYi4jTkH7fGH8B2Cq3xPX+iHE5nLx9OUDfqFqFOf3A@mail.gmail.com>
 <5CFE9D081803411C983E30EBD5E44749@RYPC>
 <BL0PR01MB4434C77A3A8EE439E42B5215ECD80@BL0PR01MB4434.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <C7C7152B51C549569038BEAB0BF9FF3E@RYPC>
 <CAPK7CFCsmN2gC-teMpfQHm6ac0oEemzjxsNQQq+GL9qEj9+QaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D415A57BC3B3441EAC52DE0A879F3345@RYPC>

Supposedly, methanol (methyl alcohol, also known as wood alcohol) is safer
for brake components than isopropyl.  I used methanol on my previous TR3A,
back around 1985 or so, and it did seem to get all the old fluid out.

My concern was (and is) then getting all of the methanol (or isopropanol)
out of the system before buttoning it up and adding brake fluid.  The
alcohol obviously has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid, and if it
does boil, you lose your brakes.  Of course you can blow the lines out with
air, but shop air often has a very high moisture content and you risk
winding up with water in the lines.  Dot 3/4 will absorb the water of
course, but one of the shortcomings of DOT 5 is that it will not combine
with water.  And the air compressor I had then would literally spit water
when using an air gun.  So instead, I used "canned air" as normally used for
cleaning PC boards and such.  
Eg https://amzn.com/B07QJY6MKD
(It's actually a kind of refrigerant, not air, but is moisture-free and acts
like air.)

Not really hard data, but that's what I've got.  BTW, the TR3A did continue
to have brake failures over the next few years, until eventually all the
seals and hoses had been changed.  The hose to the rear axle collapsed
internally, forming a check valve that made the rear brakes drag and smoke.


It then went a decade or more with no further hydraulic problems (before
getting rear ended and junked).

Also BTW, my local drug store actually carried methanol then, but I had to
ask the pharmacist for it and explain why I wanted it.  It's toxic to
humans, and they wanted to be certain I wasn't going to use it on myself.

-- Randall 

> 
> Randall (and others), any experience with a solvent flush 
> prior to bleeding in the DOT5?  ISTR an isopropyl alcohol 
> flush can do a better job of evacuating residual DOT3 than a 
> wet switch.  Makes sense, but I have no hard data.
> 
> I'm in the process of planning for DOT3 to DOT5 conversion on 
> my car, and I'm leaning toward leaving the existing rubber 
> seals in place.  If there are ways to do this that are better 
> than others, it would be good to know.
> 


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 16 17:06:45 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2020 18:06:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Pilot Bush fit
References: <6F821CC0-4BA0-4C7E-9878-356F7C27752A.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6F821CC0-4BA0-4C7E-9878-356F7C27752A@yahoo.com>

Looking for the correct clearance for the pilot bushing.  I find the OD specs For the bushing?s fit into the flywheel, but what are the fit specs for the input shaft?  I ask because my input shaft is bodged and I am sure it will need to be built up and turned to spec. 

Thx,
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Apr 17 06:55:13 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 08:55:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master cylinder alternatives
Message-ID: <5DCACE5888864A9CB039BA6E95AE771C@VlackTK121647>

Folks,

I?ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system. Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion. Braking is great but I don?t care for how far the pedal travels before engaging the brakes. I know I?m moving more fluid due to the increased size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.

My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a bolt in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?

JVV
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Apr 17 07:02:05 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 08:02:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master cylinder alternatives
In-Reply-To: <5DCACE5888864A9CB039BA6E95AE771C@VlackTK121647>
References: <5DCACE5888864A9CB039BA6E95AE771C@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aapjm2bvsuwh4-uxUZ-iowDd3EACc2-fXzsbT2D+Ac3oQ@mail.gmail.com>

I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never liked the extra
pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC with a slightly
larger bore that works.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Apr 17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> Folks,
>
> I?ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system.
> Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder
> conversion. Braking is great but I don?t care for how far the pedal travels
> before engaging the brakes. I know I?m moving more fluid due to the
> increased size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.
>
> My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger
> rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a
> bolt in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?
>
> JVV
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org  Fri Apr 17 10:11:14 2020
From: 75TR6 at TR6.Danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 12:11:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master cylinder alternatives
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aapjm2bvsuwh4-uxUZ-iowDd3EACc2-fXzsbT2D+Ac3oQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5DCACE5888864A9CB039BA6E95AE771C@VlackTK121647>
 <CAFtw3aapjm2bvsuwh4-uxUZ-iowDd3EACc2-fXzsbT2D+Ac3oQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0MGkbP-1jTcJP2hyD-00DUjB@mrelay.perfora.net>

I did a Wilwood that?s a ?drop-in? except for the plumbing for the lines. It even keeps the servo.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/wilwood_master_cylinder.htm

Bob

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2020 9:02 AM
To: Jerry Van Vlack
Cc: Triumphs; FOT
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Master cylinder alternatives

I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never liked the extra pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC with a slightly larger bore that works.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Apr 17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
Folks,
?
I?ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system. Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion. Braking is great but I don?t care for how far the pedal travels before engaging the brakes. I know I?m moving more fluid due to the increased size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.
?
My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a bolt in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?
?
JVV
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Apr 17 10:26:35 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2020 10:26:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master cylinder alternatives
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aapjm2bvsuwh4-uxUZ-iowDd3EACc2-fXzsbT2D+Ac3oQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5DCACE5888864A9CB039BA6E95AE771C@VlackTK121647>
 <CAFtw3aapjm2bvsuwh4-uxUZ-iowDd3EACc2-fXzsbT2D+Ac3oQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20EB4FC7-6E2A-4F41-932A-12CE508DC5DB@comcast.net>

I did the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion on my TR6 long ago and over the years have developed what I call the ?Triumph Tap? method of braking. I give a little tap on the brake pedal before fully apply the brakes, which gave me a less travel on the pedal. It got to be such a habit that I had to learn to stop doing it when driving the race car because it?s a detriment when heel/toe braking. 

Most of the pedal travel seemed to be in ?waking up? the caliper pistons as they tended to spread a bit from some flex in the whole wheel/caliper/rotor system. It was more apparent when auto crossing as that system got flexed a lot more than normal driving. I got used to it and never bothered with a larger brake MC.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)



> On Apr 17, 2020, at 7:02 AM, Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I looked into this a while back, did the conversion, never liked the extra pedal travel, I think maybe there is a 70s or 89s Jag MC with a slightly larger bore that works.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
> 
> On Fri, Apr 17, 2020, 7:55 AM Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
> Folks,
>  
> I?ve converted my TR4A to the dual TR6 with booster braking system. Recently I did the Toyota front caliper and larger rear wheel cylinder conversion. Braking is great but I don?t care for how far the pedal travels before engaging the brakes. I know I?m moving more fluid due to the increased size of the combined piston areas over the stock system.
>  
> My question is has anyone who has also done the Toyota caliper and larger rear wheel cylinders found a larger displacement master cylinder that is a bolt in replacement for the TR6 master cylinder and what is your result?
>  
> JVV
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net



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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 05:14:47 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 07:14:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] old gasoline
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHAfKZPv2Sxjm2ZAG=Y6w8uaYv6Ksb5HzBjHGq2HKjghQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHAfKZPv2Sxjm2ZAG=Y6w8uaYv6Ksb5HzBjHGq2HKjghQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COr8ydJLhuqkJuPfCoHu7R3apfuow+2LzaiX78HuLhmsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Gasoline usually has a shelf life of about 90 days before all of the
lightest bits evaporate.  After seven years, I expect you're halfway back
to crude oil.  If you want to clean with gas, get fresh gas.  If you are
putting it in your tank, get fresh gas.

tl;dr old gas is a gooey mess.

On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 13:25 Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

>  I soaked a clutch slave cylinder , along with the seals, in  a bath of 7
> year old gas
>  for 24 hours. On removal, the cylinder seems to be coated with some
> sticky residue on it.
>
> I normally soak stuff in gas to remove grime and stuff but usuall remove
> rubber.
>
> Is this expected for 7 year old or more gas? is it happening because of
> the rubber int he gas?
>
>  Is this stuff causing problems to my tank and fuel lines?
>
> Sujit
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Apr 19 08:40:51 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:40:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
Message-ID: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>

Who's the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Apr 19 09:14:32 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 11:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <00da01d6165d$3b8acc90$b2a065b0$@uprichard.net>

TRF has them:  GRS104

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] high torque starter

 

Who's the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?

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From tr3a58dean at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 09:15:08 2020
From: tr3a58dean at gmail.com (Dean)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 11:15:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
Message-ID: <5e9c6b01.1c69fb81.3ffb4.9493@mx.google.com>

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Apr 19 10:03:56 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:03:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <002e01d61664$2195e2a0$64c1a7e0$@charter.net>

The one on our TR6 came from Gustafson Machine
<http://gustafsonspecialty.com/> http://gustafsonspecialty.com/  via a local
mechanic 15 years years ago. Our GT6 has one that I bought from Ted
Schumacher at the VTR show in New Jersey several years ago. They work great.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 10:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] high torque starter

 

Who's the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 19 10:15:07 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:15:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjW090shhX=C6qhAe=ooFnOMkqp=idR+cz3zPSf5z7cMA@mail.gmail.com>

Dave;

I bought my TR6 and TR3 starters from British Starters at Stowe,
a couple of years back:

https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com

Works great!

Dave Friedlander

On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:41 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> Who?s the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Apr 19 10:16:20 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 11:16:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] tran trouble
Message-ID: <001001d61665$dd63c6e0$982b54a0$@ranteer.com>

We think my friend removed the transmission in gear from his TR6.

 

Now its stuck.  We tried helping it out of gear while turn the engine but no
joy.

 

Need some advice here

 

 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Apr 19 11:47:32 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 12:47:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  tran trouble
In-Reply-To: <491BE81D176C4151A22E86D219B434CD@VlackTK121647>
References: <001001d61665$dd63c6e0$982b54a0$@ranteer.com>
 <491BE81D176C4151A22E86D219B434CD@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <003f01d61672$9a8c7f30$cfa57d90$@ranteer.com>

We pulled the top off and manually corrected the problem!  on to the next issue!!!

 

From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> 
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 11:59 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] tran trouble

 

Pull the transmission top cover and get it into neutral by moving the offending syncro hubs manually. Then reinstall the top cover after you?ve moved it into neutral as well. 

 

From: dave 

Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 12:16 PM

To: triumphs at autox.team.net 

Subject: [TR] tran trouble

 

We think my friend removed the transmission in gear from his TR6.

 

Now its stuck.  We tried helping it out of gear while turn the engine but no joy.

 

Need some advice here

 

 

  _____  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

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From mitchtr25068 at aol.com  Sun Apr 19 11:47:25 2020
From: mitchtr25068 at aol.com (Mitchell Meisler)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 13:47:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjW090shhX=C6qhAe=ooFnOMkqp=idR+cz3zPSf5z7cMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjW090shhX=C6qhAe=ooFnOMkqp=idR+cz3zPSf5z7cMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7BF1E661-175B-4FE8-B863-D36DB15A22F4@aol.com>

I second the vote for Britishstarters.com.  Have had them on three of my TRs for many years.  Had issues with one after about a dozen years, and the owner actually brought a brand new one to my house and swapped it out for very little $ even though it had been years since purchase and warranty had long run out. Good product and great service.  He lives up near Saratoga springs now, I think

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 12:50 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Dave;
> 
> I bought my TR6 and TR3 starters from British Starters at Stowe, 
> a couple of years back:
> 
> https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com  
> 
> Works great!
> 
> Dave Friedlander
> 
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:41 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> Who?s the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From mitchtr25068 at aol.com  Sun Apr 19 11:47:25 2020
From: mitchtr25068 at aol.com (Mitchell Meisler)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 13:47:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjW090shhX=C6qhAe=ooFnOMkqp=idR+cz3zPSf5z7cMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwjW090shhX=C6qhAe=ooFnOMkqp=idR+cz3zPSf5z7cMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7BF1E661-175B-4FE8-B863-D36DB15A22F4@aol.com>

I second the vote for Britishstarters.com.  Have had them on three of my TRs for many years.  Had issues with one after about a dozen years, and the owner actually brought a brand new one to my house and swapped it out for very little $ even though it had been years since purchase and warranty had long run out. Good product and great service.  He lives up near Saratoga springs now, I think

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 12:50 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Dave;
> 
> I bought my TR6 and TR3 starters from British Starters at Stowe, 
> a couple of years back:
> 
> https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com  
> 
> Works great!
> 
> Dave Friedlander
> 
> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 10:41 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> Who?s the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Apr 19 13:00:40 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 15:00:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW:  tran trouble
In-Reply-To: <003f01d61672$9a8c7f30$cfa57d90$@ranteer.com>
References: <001001d61665$dd63c6e0$982b54a0$@ranteer.com>
 <491BE81D176C4151A22E86D219B434CD@VlackTK121647>
 <003f01d61672$9a8c7f30$cfa57d90$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <874B0800B2AA4638B2BA716FE0F102AE@VlackTK121647>

BOOM


From: dave 
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 1:47 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] FW: tran trouble

We pulled the top off and manually corrected the problem!  on to the next issue!!!

 

From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> 
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 11:59 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] tran trouble

 

Pull the transmission top cover and get it into neutral by moving the offending syncro hubs manually. Then reinstall the top cover after you?ve moved it into neutral as well. 

 

From: dave 

Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 12:16 PM

To: triumphs at autox.team.net 

Subject: [TR] tran trouble

 

We think my friend removed the transmission in gear from his TR6.

 

Now its stuck.  We tried helping it out of gear while turn the engine but no joy.

 

Need some advice here

 

 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 19 16:26:58 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 22:26:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <848342029.2129373.1587335218971@mail.yahoo.com>

 They all sell the same starter but I gotta put in a plug for Ted at TS Imported.? Mine works just fine after many years.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 19, 2020 9:41 am
Subject: [TR] high torque starter

&lt;!-- #yiv0355215551 _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv0355215551 #yiv0355215551 p.yiv0355215551MsoNormal, #yiv0355215551 li.yiv0355215551MsoNormal, #yiv0355215551 div.yiv0355215551MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv0355215551 span.yiv0355215551EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv0355215551 .yiv0355215551MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {} #yiv0355215551 div.yiv0355215551WordSection1 {} --&gt;Who?s the recommended vendor to get a high torque starter for a TR6?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 19 20:31:07 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:31:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <848342029.2129373.1587335218971@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
 <848342029.2129373.1587335218971@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B11C1574D6814552AC8E1234E0ACC929@RYPC>

I forget the details offhand, but Ted claimed some years ago that his were
improved to help them last in high vibration (racing) environments.
Something about the wires in the solenoid, and epoxy I think.

The one I got from TRF many years ago did fail after about 10 years of daily
driver service; but it wasn't a wiring problem.  Heat from the exhaust
apparently cooked all the grease out of the bearings, then I probably
splashed through a puddle and got it wet.  We occasionally get "mini floods"
around here where the streets are full to the top of the curb with rain
water.  Anyway, the bearing balls were rusty and closer to square than
round.  Since I never got around to installing the Stag unit I got from Ted,
I used parts from it to fix the TR3 one from TRF.  Not absolutely identical,
but close enough that everything interchanged, except the model-specific
mounting plate and pinion gear.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> They all sell the same starter but I gotta put in a plug for 
> Ted at TS Imported.  Mine works just fine after many years.


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Apr 19 20:58:49 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2020 19:58:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] high torque starter
In-Reply-To: <B11C1574D6814552AC8E1234E0ACC929@RYPC>
References: <000501d61658$869df400$93d9dc00$@ranteer.com>
 <848342029.2129373.1587335218971@mail.yahoo.com>
 <B11C1574D6814552AC8E1234E0ACC929@RYPC>
Message-ID: <797851422.1587279.1587351530108@connect.xfinity.com>

True about the wire stabilization.  There were some experiencing failure from vibration, no matter the supplier.  The wire breaks inside the unit.  It was recommended to me to injected silicone gasket maker around these wires.  I don't recall exactly where, but I think it was between the solenoid and the motor windings. It was a simple solution to a possible or eventual problem.  7 years later, 19 race events and 5500 miles, all good.
Dave H 
> On April 19, 2020 at 7:31 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I forget the details offhand, but Ted claimed some years ago that his were
> improved to help them last in high vibration (racing) environments.
> Something about the wires in the solenoid, and epoxy I think.
> 
> The one I got from TRF many years ago did fail after about 10 years of daily
> driver service; but it wasn't a wiring problem.  Heat from the exhaust
> apparently cooked all the grease out of the bearings, then I probably
> splashed through a puddle and got it wet.  We occasionally get "mini floods"
> around here where the streets are full to the top of the curb with rain
> water.  Anyway, the bearing balls were rusty and closer to square than
> round.  Since I never got around to installing the Stag unit I got from Ted,
> I used parts from it to fix the TR3 one from TRF.  Not absolutely identical,
> but close enough that everything interchanged, except the model-specific
> mounting plate and pinion gear.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
> > They all sell the same starter but I gotta put in a plug for 
> > Ted at TS Imported.  Mine works just fine after many years.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Apr 20 09:16:11 2020
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 11:16:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] coupler for split steering
Message-ID: <1591859001.333492.1587395772091@connect.xfinity.com>

Hate to bomb the whole list for this, but I can't find the request for a split steering coupler, but found one this AM.
If you still need it, let me know
Tom Fansher
couple of TR3A's, a TR4 and a Stag...
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From dmericas at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 15:45:26 2020
From: dmericas at gmail.com (Dean Mericas)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 16:45:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
Message-ID: <7AF1CA1F-3CD1-459D-AE6D-F34E5163234B@gmail.com>

I?ve got the transmission on the floor of my shop, and am wondering if I should take this opportunity to install a reverse lamp switch. How big a deal is the retrofit?
 
Thanks. 

Dean
1965 TR4
1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2L 
Austin, TX
Sent from my iPad

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Apr 20 15:54:47 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 17:54:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
In-Reply-To: <7AF1CA1F-3CD1-459D-AE6D-F34E5163234B@gmail.com>
References: <7AF1CA1F-3CD1-459D-AE6D-F34E5163234B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82056A0A1A9B484EB1C7832D1E72A61E@VlackTK121647>

It's pretty easy, drill and tap the top cover on the boss where the reverse 
light switch would go and buy an OD isolator switch. The shift fork is 
already cast to turn the switch on and off.

I think the instructions are in the Factory service manual. Need the correct 
tap and drill. I believe the tap is metric. If you need more info write to 
me and I'll try to drill it down further.

I've done it.

JVV


-----Original Message----- : Dean Mericas
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 5:45 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4

I?ve got the transmission on the floor of my shop, and am wondering if I 
should take this opportunity to install a reverse lamp switch. How big a 
deal is the retrofit?

Thanks.

Dean
1965 TR4
1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2L
Austin, TX
Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 


From dmericas at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 16:30:30 2020
From: dmericas at gmail.com (Dean Mericas)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 17:30:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
In-Reply-To: <82056A0A1A9B484EB1C7832D1E72A61E@VlackTK121647>
References: <82056A0A1A9B484EB1C7832D1E72A61E@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <24800C08-DE0E-4BBC-8A61-C11CB17EE010@gmail.com>

Thanks, Jerry. Is the disassembly of the cover very involved?  It looks like at least one of the shift rods needs to be removed prior to drilling. 

Dean
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 20, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> ?It's pretty easy, drill and tap the top cover on the boss where the reverse light switch would go and buy an OD isolator switch. The shift fork is already cast to turn the switch on and off.
> 
> I think the instructions are in the Factory service manual. Need the correct tap and drill. I believe the tap is metric. If you need more info write to me and I'll try to drill it down further.
> 
> I've done it.
> 
> JVV
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- : Dean Mericas
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 5:45 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
> 
> I?ve got the transmission on the floor of my shop, and am wondering if I should take this opportunity to install a reverse lamp switch. How big a deal is the retrofit?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Dean
> 1965 TR4
> 1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
> 1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2L
> Austin, TX
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Apr 20 17:56:25 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 19:56:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
In-Reply-To: <24800C08-DE0E-4BBC-8A61-C11CB17EE010@gmail.com>
References: <82056A0A1A9B484EB1C7832D1E72A61E@VlackTK121647>
 <24800C08-DE0E-4BBC-8A61-C11CB17EE010@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0215AF4C7BEE48FD91E5EC685C0D9CB1@VlackTK121647>

Dean,

Disassembly of at least the reverse rod should be done. The most difficult 
issue with this is removal of the small square headed tapered bolt / pin. It 
can easily be broken. I'd recommend getting an 8 point socket that fits it 
tightly and don't apply any sidewise force when loosening the bolt. A firm 
initial rotation should get it started.
Locate. Drill and tap the isolator switch hole.
Assembly of the rod is pretty straight forward but you have to make certain 
you get the little ball inserted properly. The ball keeps you from engaging 
it's rod incorrectly. There is also a cap, spring and pin that helps lock 
the rod in place when you shift. Count the turns of the cap when you remove 
it and replace with the same number of turns making certain it's at least 
flush with the sealing surface of the top cover. All of the disassembly and 
reassembly is well covered in the factory service manual.

Hope this helps, write to me with any additional questions.

I have the tap if you'd care to borrow it when the time comes. Don't know 
the drill size but can look it up based on the tap size. I don't have the 
drill, my shop did.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dean Mericas
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 6:30 PM
To: Jerry Van Vlack
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4

Thanks, Jerry. Is the disassembly of the cover very involved?  It looks like 
at least one of the shift rods needs to be removed prior to drilling.

Dean
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 20, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> 
> wrote:
>
> ?It's pretty easy, drill and tap the top cover on the boss where the 
> reverse light switch would go and buy an OD isolator switch. The shift 
> fork is already cast to turn the switch on and off.
>
> I think the instructions are in the Factory service manual. Need the 
> correct tap and drill. I believe the tap is metric. If you need more info 
> write to me and I'll try to drill it down further.
>
> I've done it.
>
> JVV
>
>
> -----Original Message----- : Dean Mericas
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 5:45 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
>
> I?ve got the transmission on the floor of my shop, and am wondering if I 
> should take this opportunity to install a reverse lamp switch. How big a 
> deal is the retrofit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dean
> 1965 TR4
> 1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
> 1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2L
> Austin, TX
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 


From dmericas at gmail.com  Mon Apr 20 21:33:44 2020
From: dmericas at gmail.com (Dean Mericas)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 22:33:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
In-Reply-To: <0215AF4C7BEE48FD91E5EC685C0D9CB1@VlackTK121647>
References: <0215AF4C7BEE48FD91E5EC685C0D9CB1@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <F81560E9-FA0B-4F35-B11D-E8C10E1AD051@gmail.com>

Great detail, Jerry. I?m not sure I?m up to the task, but your guidance is pretty much everything I?ll need if I do decide to tackle it. 

That switch must be the only metric thread part on these cars. 

Thanks again. 

Dean
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 20, 2020, at 6:56 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Dean,
> 
> Disassembly of at least the reverse rod should be done. The most difficult issue with this is removal of the small square headed tapered bolt / pin. It can easily be broken. I'd recommend getting an 8 point socket that fits it tightly and don't apply any sidewise force when loosening the bolt. A firm initial rotation should get it started.
> Locate. Drill and tap the isolator switch hole.
> Assembly of the rod is pretty straight forward but you have to make certain you get the little ball inserted properly. The ball keeps you from engaging it's rod incorrectly. There is also a cap, spring and pin that helps lock the rod in place when you shift. Count the turns of the cap when you remove it and replace with the same number of turns making certain it's at least flush with the sealing surface of the top cover. All of the disassembly and reassembly is well covered in the factory service manual.
> 
> Hope this helps, write to me with any additional questions.
> 
> I have the tap if you'd care to borrow it when the time comes. Don't know the drill size but can look it up based on the tap size. I don't have the drill, my shop did.
> 
> JVV
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Dean Mericas
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 6:30 PM
> To: Jerry Van Vlack
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
> 
> Thanks, Jerry. Is the disassembly of the cover very involved?  It looks like at least one of the shift rods needs to be removed prior to drilling.
> 
> Dean
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?It's pretty easy, drill and tap the top cover on the boss where the reverse light switch would go and buy an OD isolator switch. The shift fork is already cast to turn the switch on and off.
>> 
>> I think the instructions are in the Factory service manual. Need the correct tap and drill. I believe the tap is metric. If you need more info write to me and I'll try to drill it down further.
>> 
>> I've done it.
>> 
>> JVV
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message----- : Dean Mericas
>> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 5:45 PM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] Retrofitting a reverse light switch on a TR4
>> 
>> I?ve got the transmission on the floor of my shop, and am wondering if I should take this opportunity to install a reverse lamp switch. How big a deal is the retrofit?
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Dean
>> 1965 TR4
>> 1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV
>> 1976 Alfa Romeo Giulia Nuova Super 2L
>> Austin, TX
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 
> 

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 12:46:20 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 14:46:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] E-Type cones out of the barn
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiqMQbt8BRpmEQH1g5Y4Cwcsr5CCPzG=C9nb3Ka_qEL6A@mail.gmail.com>

Not Triumph-related but still LBC. An interesting read....

https://www.foxnews.com/auto/rusty-barn-find-jaguar-e-type

Dave
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Tue Apr 21 13:28:11 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 19:28:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] E-Type cones out of the barn
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwiqMQbt8BRpmEQH1g5Y4Cwcsr5CCPzG=C9nb3Ka_qEL6A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwiqMQbt8BRpmEQH1g5Y4Cwcsr5CCPzG=C9nb3Ka_qEL6A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR11MB3948E1A42257BDBA19F057BFA0D50@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

$250K for a coupe, albeit with some nice upgrades?  I don?t think so?.

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 1:46 PM
To: New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] E-Type cones out of the barn

Not Triumph-related but still LBC. An interesting read....

https://www.foxnews.com/auto/rusty-barn-find-jaguar-e-type<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.foxnews.com_auto_rusty-2Dbarn-2Dfind-2Djaguar-2De-2Dtype&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ydTgCK5E1KqTZOwS2LNYA1net_Aq4IYEGdXRVCexfuo&s=y0eDTviLwUtZLjvS7buPzwv0PnrdYQMTxkQ-2jN_42k&e=>

Dave
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 14:26:03 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 16:26:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
Message-ID: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>

Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.  It only
has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.  Drained oil,
removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.   Any recommendations on
best way to seal that brass plug?  The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
new when rebuilt and looks great.    Also, any recommendations on using
Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
that was an option that worked well.
Thanks in advance?
Jim Henningsen
61 TR3A TS65657L
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
81 TR8


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 21 15:30:50 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 16:30:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
In-Reply-To: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
References: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03149188-9E0D-41E5-AA9C-5A8E3487DEA2@yahoo.com>

Jim,
You might try a thread sealer.  I use Permatex PTFE(?),  pretty good stuff that works welll.  I use on oil plugs as well as my air fittings in the shop. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:26 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

?Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.  It only
has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.  Drained oil,
removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.   Any recommendations on
best way to seal that brass plug?  The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
new when rebuilt and looks great.    Also, any recommendations on using
Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
that was an option that worked well.
Thanks in advance?
Jim Henningsen
61 TR3A TS65657L
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
81 TR8

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 21 15:30:50 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 16:30:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
In-Reply-To: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
References: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03149188-9E0D-41E5-AA9C-5A8E3487DEA2@yahoo.com>

Jim,
You might try a thread sealer.  I use Permatex PTFE(?),  pretty good stuff that works welll.  I use on oil plugs as well as my air fittings in the shop. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 21, 2020, at 3:26 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

?Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.  It only
has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.  Drained oil,
removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.   Any recommendations on
best way to seal that brass plug?  The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
new when rebuilt and looks great.    Also, any recommendations on using
Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
that was an option that worked well.
Thanks in advance?
Jim Henningsen
61 TR3A TS65657L
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
81 TR8

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com


From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Apr 21 16:23:16 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 22:23:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
In-Reply-To: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
References: <0f2a01d6181b$14f40b90$3edc22b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <234935878.404548.1587507796703@mail.yahoo.com>

 If that's the only place it is leaking then kudos to you.? I would try applying some Hylomar non-hardening gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket and install.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 21, 2020 3:26 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question

Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.? It only
has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.? Drained oil,
removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.? Any recommendations on
best way to seal that brass plug?? The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
new when rebuilt and looks great.? ? Also, any recommendations on using
Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
that was an option that worked well.
Thanks in advance?
Jim Henningsen
61 TR3A TS65657L
62 TR4 CT5212LO
75 TR6
81 TR8

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 21 19:30:43 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 21:30:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
In-Reply-To: <234935878.404548.1587507796703@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <234935878.404548.1587507796703@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EB9D4074-4D0A-4EA7-B694-B90FB6ECDCD2@gmail.com>

Thank you all for the suggestions!  Jim

> On Apr 21, 2020, at 6:23 PM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> If that's the only place it is leaking then kudos to you.  I would try applying some Hylomar non-hardening gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket and install.
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Apr 21, 2020 3:26 pm
> Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
> 
> Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.  It only
> has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.  Drained oil,
> removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.  Any recommendations on
> best way to seal that brass plug?  The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
> new when rebuilt and looks great.    Also, any recommendations on using
> Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
> that was an option that worked well.
> Thanks in advance?
> Jim Henningsen
> 61 TR3A TS65657L
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 75 TR6
> 81 TR8
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Apr 21 19:53:55 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2020 21:53:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
In-Reply-To: <EB9D4074-4D0A-4EA7-B694-B90FB6ECDCD2@gmail.com>
References: <234935878.404548.1587507796703@mail.yahoo.com>
 <EB9D4074-4D0A-4EA7-B694-B90FB6ECDCD2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1197099598.506807.1587520435916@connect.xfinity.com>

I do seem to remember some List posts a while ago indicating that a sufficiency of previous owners had succumbed to the temptation to whack the drain plugs with all manner of BFH's and assorted utensils causing them to warp and leak.  When they rebuilt the tranny, they may not have seen reason to replace the plug.

Just a thought.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire where it's stopped snowing but now it's raining.  Gadfrey!

> On April 21, 2020 at 9:30 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     Thank you all for the suggestions!  Jim
> 
> 
>         > > On Apr 21, 2020, at 6:23 PM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>         > >         If that's the only place it is leaking then kudos to you.  I would try applying some Hylomar non-hardening gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket and install.
> > 
> >         Dave
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >         -----Original Message-----
> >         From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> >         To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> >         Sent: Tue, Apr 21, 2020 3:26 pm
> >         Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive Question
> > 
> >         Want to fix a leak on my 61 TR3A od gearbox on the OD brass plug.  It only
> >         has 400+ miles since it was rebuilt, but they do like to leak.  Drained oil,
> >         removed OD brass plug with 1 3/16 hex nut fitted.  Any recommendations on
> >         best way to seal that brass plug?  The fiber washer for the sealing plug was
> >         new when rebuilt and looks great.    Also, any recommendations on using
> >         Valvoline VR 50w racing oil in tranny instead of the normal stuff? Heard
> >         that was an option that worked well.
> >         Thanks in advance?
> >         Jim Henningsen
> >         61 TR3A TS65657L
> >         62 TR4 CT5212LO
> >         75 TR6
> >         81 TR8
> > 
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
> > 
> >     > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


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From ptegler at verizon.net  Thu Apr 23 12:27:57 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 14:27:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] E-Type cones out of the barn
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR11MB3948E1A42257BDBA19F057BFA0D50@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwiqMQbt8BRpmEQH1g5Y4Cwcsr5CCPzG=C9nb3Ka_qEL6A@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR11MB3948E1A42257BDBA19F057BFA0D50@DM6PR11MB3948.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6939a8b5-a0ea-5d48-cd00-e61b77938ecf@verizon.net>

that's probably what the shop labor and time cost...doesn't mean it's 
actually worth that much.

Then again...there IS a buyer for every car out there... more dollars 
than cents (sense)

ptegler

On 4/21/2020 3:28 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
>
> $250K for a coupe, albeit with some nice upgrades?? I don?t think so?.
>
> Mike
>
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
>
> Albion Technical Services
>
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
>
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>
> Cell:? 630-202-0065
>
> Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *David Friedlander
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 21, 2020 1:46 PM
> *To:* New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] E-Type cones out of the barn
>
> Not Triumph-related but still LBC. An interesting read....
>
> https://www.foxnews.com/auto/rusty-barn-find-jaguar-e-type 
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.foxnews.com_auto_rusty-2Dbarn-2Dfind-2Djaguar-2De-2Dtype&d=DwMFaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ydTgCK5E1KqTZOwS2LNYA1net_Aq4IYEGdXRVCexfuo&s=y0eDTviLwUtZLjvS7buPzwv0PnrdYQMTxkQ-2jN_42k&e=> 
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Apr 23 17:43:48 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 19:43:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
Message-ID: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>

I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.

But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.

Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 23 18:17:08 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 00:17:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <376942595.42349.1587687428053@mail.yahoo.com>

 i love it.so much cheaper than a therapist.frank



    On Thursday, April 23, 2020, 04:53:39 PM PDT, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
    I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:? Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?? Gad!? I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.   
   But today I'm finished with sandblasting.? ?I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.   
   Terry Smith? '59 TR3A? TS 58667   New Hampshire   
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 23 18:22:35 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 19:22:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <3EE8A697-0035-44D9-AA38-9FB6B05AA17E@yahoo.com>

Not me, I have used the quartz sand in the past, now I leave it to the pros.  On the other hand I do enjoy my bead blasting cabinet, just cleaned up a water pump today.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 23, 2020, at 6:53 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

?
I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.

But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.

Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 23 18:22:35 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 19:22:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <3EE8A697-0035-44D9-AA38-9FB6B05AA17E@yahoo.com>

Not me, I have used the quartz sand in the past, now I leave it to the pros.  On the other hand I do enjoy my bead blasting cabinet, just cleaned up a water pump today.  
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 23, 2020, at 6:53 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

?
I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.

But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.

Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Apr 23 18:25:18 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 20:25:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>

Years ago I bought a used full face mask that included an air supply unit for just $400. Worked great except, as you said, the rest of your face would look like the Sahara desert. Then, I bought a sandblaster?s hood (but they are not called that anymore due to silicosis). That was about $180 at the time. Used with the dedicated air supply, it works great. The whole, complete set-up is very expensive if you purchase it new but the alternatives may be even more unpleasant. I?m sure there are products that are a lot cheaper. But, once you use a supplied-air hood, you will never go back to the $19.95 product.

 

 <https://www.leonardsafety.com/head-protection/respiratory-protection/breathing-systems/bullard-air-supplied-systems/grinding-hood-system---complete-system-p-28265.html> https://www.leonardsafety.com/head-protection/respiratory-protection/breathing-systems/bullard-air-supplied-systems/grinding-hood-system---complete-system-p-28265.html  

 

I have probably gone through literally two to three tons of sand over the years on my tractors, trailers and other farm equipment. And that?s been with the same ALC Sandy-Jet 50 lb. suction unit! But, I still hate sandblasting! I can?t think of any activity where the novelty wears off any quicker. I use bagged sand that is sold by a mason supply company rather than coal slag. I always felt that light colored sand blends into the yard better than black coal.

 

Although it sounds like you are done, for the sake of others, make sure you seal off any place where a shaft enters a housing such as wheel hubs, governor arm, 3 pt. hitch control lever, brake shafts, crankshaft, etc., etc. It?s just amazing how far sand (or other blast media) can migrate into a machine.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 7:44 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] sandblasting

 

I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes. 

 

But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad. 

 

Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667 

New Hampshire 

 

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From mdporter at dfn.com  Thu Apr 23 18:41:14 2020
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 18:41:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>

On 4/23/2020 6:25 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
> But, I still hate sandblasting! I can?t think of any activity where 
> the novelty wears off any quicker.

Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (/The New Science of Strong 
Materials/) remark about production welding:? "Welding is like Hell--fun 
for the first three or four hours."


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Apr 23 19:01:18 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 21:01:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
 <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <000901d619d3$dcf8e020$96eaa060$@charter.net>

Yeah, I can see that. As much as I enjoy using my oxy-acetylene torches and my stick welder, I?m glad that I don?t have to make my living with those tools, especially on a production basis.

 

Alex T.

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Porter
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 8:41 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson; 'TERRY SMITH'; 'triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting

 

On 4/23/2020 6:25 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:

But, I still hate sandblasting! I can?t think of any activity where the novelty wears off any quicker.

Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."

 

Cheers.

-- 
 
 
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
 
 
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Apr 23 19:30:16 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 18:30:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1556847408.1656833.1587691816650@connect.xfinity.com>

Sandblasting a tractor?!  Oh boy.  What is it?  I'm about to tear into track removal and further disassembly of a 1980 Hesston/Fiat, (Ferrari) crawler.  It has a frozen brake.  Frozen in the open position.  Kinda hard to operate a crawler with a brake problem.  Sandblasting outside of a cabinet, sucks, or... blows. 
I have a '48 John Deere MC (crawler) that needs a little work too.
Dave H.

> On April 23, 2020 at 4:43 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>     I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.
> 
>     But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.
> 
>     Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
>     New Hampshire
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 


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From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu Apr 23 20:00:38 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 22:00:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
 <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COv1W6nog+hyMxA6sTb_eFV59Kq2h0vHGOWV1=+VnaVBg@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

>
> Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (*The New Science of Strong Materials*)
> remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first
> three or four hours."
>
>
There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker
at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office
in front of the computer.
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Thu Apr 23 21:25:51 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 22:25:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7COv1W6nog+hyMxA6sTb_eFV59Kq2h0vHGOWV1=+VnaVBg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
 <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
 <CAO8Q7COv1W6nog+hyMxA6sTb_eFV59Kq2h0vHGOWV1=+VnaVBg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZVFaXi_nwsPZhEa4Ub7bgdYG01N3TKL_+z9YA0usbgEA@mail.gmail.com>

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many
evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at
closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.

Be careful what you wish for I guess.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (*The New Science of Strong Materials*)
>> remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first
>> three or four hours."
>>
>>
> There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton
> picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the
> office in front of the computer.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Apr 23 22:02:11 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2020 21:02:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aZVFaXi_nwsPZhEa4Ub7bgdYG01N3TKL_+z9YA0usbgEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
 <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
 <CAO8Q7COv1W6nog+hyMxA6sTb_eFV59Kq2h0vHGOWV1=+VnaVBg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZVFaXi_nwsPZhEa4Ub7bgdYG01N3TKL_+z9YA0usbgEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2015745007.1658223.1587700931771@connect.xfinity.com>

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more.
Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.
The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long. 
Dave H.


> On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.  
> 
>     Be careful what you wish for I guess.
> 
>     Greg Lemon
>     TR250
> 
>     On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com mailto:fishplate at gmail.com > wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> > 
> >         On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com mailto:mdporter at dfn.com > wrote:
> > 
> >             > > > 
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > 
> > > >             > > > 
> > >             Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."
> > > 
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> >         There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.
> > 
> >          
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
> > 
> >     >     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 


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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Fri Apr 24 05:19:35 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 12:19:35 +0100
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <E0FB187A-F790-43C5-8281-81E6F448DF00@Ukpips.org.uk>

I spent 10 days sandblasting the inside of an old farmhouse i bought in France in 1994. It was a lovely old place made of local stone and with massive timber beams in the ceilings of the ground floor rooms but it had had 150 years of bad ventilation and smoking fireplaces. It was BLACK everywhere! When I?d finished the house was transformed but sweeping out and vacuuming barrowloads of sand each day, no thanks.

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?


> On 24 Apr 2020, at 00:43, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.
> 
> But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.
> 
> Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Apr 24 05:53:15 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 07:53:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <2015745007.1658223.1587700931771@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <007901d619ce$d59f69c0$80de3d40$@charter.net>
 <dace6f3d-f009-d150-d1db-d2e228f5377f@dfn.com>
 <CAO8Q7COv1W6nog+hyMxA6sTb_eFV59Kq2h0vHGOWV1=+VnaVBg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFtw3aZVFaXi_nwsPZhEa4Ub7bgdYG01N3TKL_+z9YA0usbgEA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2015745007.1658223.1587700931771@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <003c01d61a2e$f02a9a70$d07fcf50$@charter.net>

You?re right! I have a 5 HP Worthington Industrial (1952) that can just about keep up with my suction feed unit. Some blasting guns have different tip sizes to accommodate smaller compressors. But, that?s like using a garden tractor and a single 10? moldboard plow to cover a 20 acre field!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 12:02 AM
To: Greg Lemon
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting

 

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more. 

Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided. 

The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long.  

Dave H. 

 

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Apr 24 07:17:17 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 09:17:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <bba24b03-7d2c-0e54-a8ad-69eea35f1aa8@adelphia.net>

Terry,

When I did out door sand blasting I used a head cover made for that 
purpose. I is similar to those has-mat? hoods you see on TV. Then I put 
my overalls on over that cover. Also used a quality respirator. Yes it 
is still one of the worse jobs there is but necessary.

Bob

On 4/23/20 7:43 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:? 
> Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?? Gad!? I've got coal 
> material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis 
> shoes.
>
> But today I'm finished with sandblasting.? ?I don't feel guilty for 
> feeling glad.
>
> Terry Smith? '59 TR3A? TS 58667
> New Hampshire
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Apr 24 07:29:31 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 09:29:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <E0FB187A-F790-43C5-8281-81E6F448DF00@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <273097624.633837.1587685429347@connect.xfinity.com>
 <E0FB187A-F790-43C5-8281-81E6F448DF00@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <1661253539.914173.1587734972302@connect.xfinity.com>

I would love to have seen that.

> On April 24, 2020 at 7:19 AM John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
>     I spent 10 days sandblasting the inside of an old farmhouse i bought in France in 1994. It was a lovely old place made of local stone and with massive timber beams in the ceilings of the ground floor rooms but it had had 150 years of bad ventilation and smoking fireplaces. It was BLACK everywhere! When I?d finished the house was transformed but sweeping out and vacuuming barrowloads of sand each day, no thanks.
> 
>     Jonmac
> 
>     At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
>     Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
>     Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
> 
> 
>     On 24 Apr 2020, at 00:43, TERRY SMITH < terryrs at comcast.net mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
> 
>         > >         I'm sandblasting a tractor and not a triumph, but socratic question:  Coes anybody out there enjoy sandblasting at all?  Gad!  I've got coal material all over my hair, in my ears, and forming lumps in my tennis shoes.
> > 
> >         But today I'm finished with sandblasting.   I don't feel guilty for feeling glad.
> > 
> >         Terry Smith  '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> >         New Hampshire
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>         > >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> > 
> >     > 


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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Apr 24 08:24:37 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 14:24:37 -0000
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
Message-ID: <d492f206-8d9c-4ca6-ba20-55f612f5f765@me.com>

My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning. ?He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting. ?He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste. ?And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster. ?One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.

In all those situations, a mobile service?like his, they will?capture and clean up the?media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and?were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross. ?

At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand. ?It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal. ?I've texted him to find out what it was.

As was?mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage. ?The trick was to?learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get?hot and warp. ?So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience. ?After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.

When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots. ?No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.

I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.

He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight. ?Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem. ?I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.

Good luck,

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.? $300 each.? They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.? The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.? In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.? Worth every penny and more.
Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.? You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.? Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.? Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.
The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.? If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long.?
Dave H.

On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote: 

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.??

Be careful what you wish for I guess.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com> wrote: 


On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com> wrote: 

Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:? "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."


There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.? It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.

?
** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com 
** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Apr 24 09:03:41 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 10:03:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <d492f206-8d9c-4ca6-ba20-55f612f5f765@me.com>
References: <d492f206-8d9c-4ca6-ba20-55f612f5f765@me.com>
Message-ID: <000201d61a49$8b52c300$a1f84900$@ranteer.com>

That black media he used was likely ground up lava.  I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand.  

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting

 

My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning.  He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting.  He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste.  And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster.  One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.

 

In all those situations, a mobile service like his, they will capture and clean up the media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross.  

 

At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand.  It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal.  I've texted him to find out what it was.

 

As was mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage.  The trick was to learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get hot and warp.  So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience.  After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.

 

When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots.  No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.

 

I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.

 

He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight.  Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem.  I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.

 

Good luck,

 

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE


On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net <mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net> > wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more.

Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.

The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long. 

Dave H.

 

On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com <mailto:grglmn at gmail.com> > wrote: 

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.  

 

Be careful what you wish for I guess.

 

Greg Lemon

TR250

 

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com <mailto:fishplate at gmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com <mailto:mdporter at dfn.com> > wrote: 

 

Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."

 

 

There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.

 

 

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Apr 24 09:15:02 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:15:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <000201d61a49$8b52c300$a1f84900$@ranteer.com>
References: <d492f206-8d9c-4ca6-ba20-55f612f5f765@me.com>
 <000201d61a49$8b52c300$a1f84900$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1841594261.917992.1587741303436@connect.xfinity.com>

I think the "rust inhibitor" is phosphoric acid.  It seems to chemically alter the structure of rust.  Just, it needs to fastidiously flushed off after it sits for something like 15 minutes.  

> On April 24, 2020 at 11:03 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     That black media he used was likely ground up lava.  I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand. 
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
>     Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
>     To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
>     Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting
> 
>      
> 
>     My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning.  He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting.  He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste.  And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster.  One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.
> 
>      
> 
>     In all those situations, a mobile service like his, they will capture and clean up the media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross.  
> 
>      
> 
>     At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand.  It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal.  I've texted him to find out what it was.
> 
>      
> 
>     As was mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage.  The trick was to learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get hot and warp.  So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience.  After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.
> 
>      
> 
>     When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots.  No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.
> 
>      
> 
>     I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.
> 
>      
> 
>     He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight.  Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem.  I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.
> 
>      
> 
>     Good luck,
> 
>      
> 
>     Rye
>     PH: 530-FIND-RYE
> 
> 
>     On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more.
> > 
> >         Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.
> > 
> >         The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long. 
> > 
> >         Dave H.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >             > > > 
> > >             On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com mailto:grglmn at gmail.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >             I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.  
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Be careful what you wish for I guess.
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Greg Lemon
> > > 
> > >             TR250
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com mailto:fishplate at gmail.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                  
> > > > 
> > > >                  
> > > > 
> > > >                 On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com mailto:mdporter at dfn.com > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > >                     > > > > > 
> > > > >                      
> > > > > 
> > > > >                     Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."
> > > > > 
> > > > >                      
> > > > > 
> > > > >                 > > > > 
> > > >                  
> > > > 
> > > >                 There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.
> > > > 
> > > >                  
> > > > 
> > > >                  
> > > > 
> > > >                 ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > > > 
> > > >                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > >                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > > > 
> > > >                 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
> > > > 
> > > >             > > > 
> > >             ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > > 
> > >             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> > >         > > 
> > 
> >          
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>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From FPrecht at frostburg.edu  Fri Apr 24 09:20:11 2020
From: FPrecht at frostburg.edu (Francis L Precht)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 15:20:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <000201d61a49$8b52c300$a1f84900$@ranteer.com>
References: <d492f206-8d9c-4ca6-ba20-55f612f5f765@me.com>,
 <000201d61a49$8b52c300$a1f84900$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR07MB5699F947A797A8165B312DFDA0D00@BL0PR07MB5699.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

The black stuff is more likely "black beauty" or "black diamond." Stuff is "slag" which is a left over by-product from iron ore, steel, and metal processing and burning coal.  Supposed to be relatively "inert" since it doesn't contain any sand or silica. It MAY containSome heavy metals though.  It is not coal ash which is VERY nasty and acidic. Used to be able to buy it at Tractor Supply. Comes in several grits.

Wipe down real good after blasting.

Eastwood products also sells 'After Blast' which prevents flash rust from forming. I then used epoxy primer over it and it sticks really well given the somewhat tougher surface from blasting. You don't get that same "tooth" using paint stripper.   They say you can use it under powder coating too but never tried that.
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 11:03 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting


That black media he used was likely ground up lava.  I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand.



From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting



My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning.  He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting.  He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste.  And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster.  One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.



In all those situations, a mobile service like his, they will capture and clean up the media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross.



At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand.  It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal.  I've texted him to find out what it was.



As was mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage.  The trick was to learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get hot and warp.  So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience.  After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.



When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots.  No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.



I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.



He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight.  Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem.  I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.



Good luck,



Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net<mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net>> wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more.

Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.

The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long.

Dave H.



On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com<mailto:grglmn at gmail.com>> wrote:

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.



Be careful what you wish for I guess.



Greg Lemon

TR250



On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com<mailto:fishplate at gmail.com>> wrote:





On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com<mailto:mdporter at dfn.com>> wrote:



Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."





There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.





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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Apr 24 09:38:27 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 15:38:27 -0000
Subject: [TR] sandblasting
Message-ID: <bc6b8edf-ac49-4f2e-9b24-371020ef56e7@me.com>

OK, it's -?COAL SLAG BLAST MEDIA
https://www.agsco.com/coal-slag/


On April 24, 2020 at 8:04 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

That black media he used was likely ground up lava.? I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand.?
?
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting
?
My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning. ?He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting. ?He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste. ?And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster. ?One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.
?
In all those situations, a mobile service?like his, they will?capture and clean up the?media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and?were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross. ?
?
At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand. ?It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal. ?I've texted him to find out what it was.
?
As was?mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage. ?The trick was to?learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get?hot and warp. ?So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience. ?After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.
?
When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots. ?No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.
?
I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.
?
He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight. ?Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem. ?I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.
?
Good luck,
?
Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.? $300 each.? They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.? The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.? In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.? Worth every penny and more.
Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.? You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.? Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.? Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.
The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.? If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long.?
Dave H.
?
On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.??
?
Be careful what you wish for I guess.
?
Greg Lemon
TR250
?
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
?
?
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:
?
Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:? "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."
?
?
There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.? It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.
?
?
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 24 09:49:31 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 10:49:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
References: <C9CC8012-A84C-45C1-BBF6-7A73092E90AE.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C9CC8012-A84C-45C1-BBF6-7A73092E90AE@yahoo.com>


I have the Purolator oil filter unit and canister off doing a general cleanup.  There was the occasional minor drip coming from the bolt head.  What I find it not like the illustration in the Moss catalog.  Is there a better description somewhere else?   Several of the catalog items are just marked ?seal? or ?washer? and are NA. 

I also have a very sturdy cupped washer on the bottom of the canister, not shown. 

Thx,
Bill
TS30800L


Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 24 09:58:47 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 08:58:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <C9CC8012-A84C-45C1-BBF6-7A73092E90AE@yahoo.com>
References: <C9CC8012-A84C-45C1-BBF6-7A73092E90AE.ref@yahoo.com>
 <C9CC8012-A84C-45C1-BBF6-7A73092E90AE@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>

Check out Plate G here
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYjZmY2ZlYzctYzg5OC00OTc4LWE3Mm
EtMmRiODI3OTliY2Y4

Should be very close.  TRF lists the only external washer, 500321, as
available.

I believe that "sturdy cupped washer" is considered part of the housing
assembly, not serviced separately.  If you look close, you can kind of see
it in the diagram.

Note that often, oil seeps down the bottom from the joint between housing
and filter head, then drips off of the bolt.  The most common cause of that
is having an extra gasket stuck in the bottom of the groove where the two
meet.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> I have the Purolator oil filter unit and canister off doing a 
> general cleanup.  There was the occasional minor drip coming 
> from the bolt head.  What I find it not like the illustration 
> in the Moss catalog.  Is there a better description somewhere 
> else?   Several of the catalog items are just marked "seal" 
> or "washer" and are NA. 
> 
> I also have a very sturdy cupped washer on the bottom of the 
> canister, not shown. 
> 


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 24 10:24:49 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:24:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>
References: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>
Message-ID: <37FAA9EA-A57B-4B9C-984B-9C4D6AE9B251@yahoo.com>

Thanks Randall,
Yes, already checked the o-ring groove, learned that lesson a few years back.  

I suppose the seal/washer needs to be between that cupped washer as the hole is much larger than the bolt.  That?s the bit that confused me, along with how to get the circlip on whilst the bolt is in the canister(mine was gone, never had one).

Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 24, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

?Check out Plate G here
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYjZmY2ZlYzctYzg5OC00OTc4LWE3Mm
EtMmRiODI3OTliY2Y4

Should be very close.  TRF lists the only external washer, 500321, as
available.

I believe that "sturdy cupped washer" is considered part of the housing
assembly, not serviced separately.  If you look close, you can kind of see
it in the diagram.

Note that often, oil seeps down the bottom from the joint between housing
and filter head, then drips off of the bolt.  The most common cause of that
is having an extra gasket stuck in the bottom of the groove where the two
meet.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> I have the Purolator oil filter unit and canister off doing a 
> general cleanup.  There was the occasional minor drip coming 
> from the bolt head.  What I find it not like the illustration 
> in the Moss catalog.  Is there a better description somewhere 
> else?   Several of the catalog items are just marked "seal" 
> or "washer" and are NA. 
> 
> I also have a very sturdy cupped washer on the bottom of the 
> canister, not shown. 
> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 24 10:24:49 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 11:24:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>
References: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>
Message-ID: <37FAA9EA-A57B-4B9C-984B-9C4D6AE9B251@yahoo.com>

Thanks Randall,
Yes, already checked the o-ring groove, learned that lesson a few years back.  

I suppose the seal/washer needs to be between that cupped washer as the hole is much larger than the bolt.  That?s the bit that confused me, along with how to get the circlip on whilst the bolt is in the canister(mine was gone, never had one).

Bill B

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 24, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

?Check out Plate G here
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYjZmY2ZlYzctYzg5OC00OTc4LWE3Mm
EtMmRiODI3OTliY2Y4

Should be very close.  TRF lists the only external washer, 500321, as
available.

I believe that "sturdy cupped washer" is considered part of the housing
assembly, not serviced separately.  If you look close, you can kind of see
it in the diagram.

Note that often, oil seeps down the bottom from the joint between housing
and filter head, then drips off of the bolt.  The most common cause of that
is having an extra gasket stuck in the bottom of the groove where the two
meet.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> I have the Purolator oil filter unit and canister off doing a 
> general cleanup.  There was the occasional minor drip coming 
> from the bolt head.  What I find it not like the illustration 
> in the Moss catalog.  Is there a better description somewhere 
> else?   Several of the catalog items are just marked "seal" 
> or "washer" and are NA. 
> 
> I also have a very sturdy cupped washer on the bottom of the 
> canister, not shown. 
> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 24 10:44:43 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 09:44:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <37FAA9EA-A57B-4B9C-984B-9C4D6AE9B251@yahoo.com>
References: <82F6EFB64B16439BA10574E4B9D520FA@RYPC>
 <37FAA9EA-A57B-4B9C-984B-9C4D6AE9B251@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8393D65235E24CB9832C228A6B12D02E@RYPC>

As I recall (it's been a lot of years), I propped the head of the bolt
against the base of the bench vise and used a long rod of some sort to hold
the spring compressed, then a tool like
https://is.gd/cChG1i 
to snap the clip into place.

I don't understand your comment about the hole being much bigger.  ISTR I
put mine together just as shown in the diagram, with the rubber washer under
the head of the long bolt.  Not a tight fit through the cupped washer, but
the rubber washer helps fill the gap.  

If you think yours is leaking between the big cupped washer and the main
housing, you might want to epoxy them back together.  

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of bill beecher
> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
> To: Randall
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
> 
> Thanks Randall,
> Yes, already checked the o-ring groove, learned that lesson a 
> few years back.  
> 
> I suppose the seal/washer needs to be between that cupped 
> washer as the hole is much larger than the bolt.  That's the 
> bit that confused me, along with how to get the circlip on 
> whilst the bolt is in the canister(mine was gone, never had one).
> 


From ryel at mac.com  Fri Apr 24 14:52:51 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 20:52:51 -0000
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  sandblasting
References: <198334d5-9bb3-4ea9-a90a-cb22a4de3d6b@me.com>
Message-ID: <470ed21e-d4d5-4aa2-82c8-f7b556348521@me.com>

I sent this at 8:38 am, but it never came back around to me, so I don't know if it went out to the list or not. ?Sorry if it did. ?This is the media my nephew used on my trailer.

Rye

Begin forwarded message:

From: Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com>
Date: 4/24/2020
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting


OK, it's -?COAL SLAG BLAST MEDIA
https://www.agsco.com/coal-slag/


On April 24, 2020 at 8:04 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

That black media he used was likely ground up lava.? I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand.?
?
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting
?
My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning. ?He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting. ?He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste. ?And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster. ?One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.
?
In all those situations, a mobile service?like his, they will?capture and clean up the?media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and?were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross. ?
?
At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand. ?It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal. ?I've texted him to find out what it was.
?
As was?mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage. ?The trick was to?learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get?hot and warp. ?So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience. ?After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.
?
When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots. ?No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.
?
I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.
?
He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight. ?Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem. ?I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.
?
Good luck,
?
Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.? $300 each.? They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.? The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.? In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.? Worth every penny and more.
Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.? You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.? Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.? Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.
The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.? If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long.?
Dave H.
?
On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.??
?
Be careful what you wish for I guess.
?
Greg Lemon
TR250
?
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
?
?
On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:
?
Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:? "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."
?
?
There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.? It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.
?
?
** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive 

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Apr 24 15:55:03 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 17:55:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  sandblasting
In-Reply-To: <470ed21e-d4d5-4aa2-82c8-f7b556348521@me.com>
References: <198334d5-9bb3-4ea9-a90a-cb22a4de3d6b@me.com>
 <470ed21e-d4d5-4aa2-82c8-f7b556348521@me.com>
Message-ID: <00aa01d61a83$025a0420$070e0c60$@charter.net>

I know that there are many TR list messages that don?t get into my mailbox, either. I usually receive the automated message about ?many bounced messages?  once every two weeks or more often. I think it is at the Charter.net level rather than at the Outlook level. I enjoyed seeing the sandblasting discussion.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 4:53 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Fwd: sandblasting

 

I sent this at 8:38 am, but it never came back around to me, so I don't know if it went out to the list or not.  Sorry if it did.  This is the media my nephew used on my trailer.

 

Rye


Begin forwarded message:

From: Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com>
Date: 4/24/2020
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting

 

OK, it's - COAL SLAG BLAST MEDIA

https://www.agsco.com/coal-slag/

 


On April 24, 2020 at 8:04 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

That black media he used was likely ground up lava.  I have used that and its not as aggressive as sand. 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Rye Livingston
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
To: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] sandblasting

 

My nephew started his own company of mobile power cleaning.  He bought this serious diesel powered professional duel axle trailer rig in Texas, and he could power clean with all kinds of media depending on the application, and he also had hot water blasting.  He did all kinds of jobs, from vintage cars, boats for the Coast Guard, to BART stations in San Francisco for both graffiti to human waste.  And if that wasn't gross enough, he said one of the worst was a Chinese restaurant that got sited and fined every day for grease oozing out of the cinder black and concrete enclosure for their dumpster.  One of his easiest jobs was my 8' long utility trailer.

 

In all those situations, a mobile service like his, they will capture and clean up the media and waste, big vacuum system. For that Chinese restaurant he put out dams to channel the water and goo and were vacuuming up all that grease and hot water, very gross.  

 

At my house he used an inert material, but it was not sand.  It was some sort of black material that looked like shards of coal.  I've texted him to find out what it was.

 

As was mentioned, for the cars he blasted, he had a couple of "learning" cars that were not vintage.  The trick was to learn not to let the hood, or any long body panel, get hot and warp.  So check for references to make sure who you hire has that experience.  After he learned he did several cars including BMWs and vintage 911s and 356 Porsches.

 

When he did this work, he had a full helmet respirator setup, coveralls, gloves and boots.  No media got where he didn't want it, but he was a hot sweaty mess when he took that helmet off.

 

I live in a cul-de-sac and he did the blasting down there, and there was just a little bit of media that was under the trailer that didn't get cleaned up, so again, a mobile service has a process to not leave all that behind.

 

He also had a "rust inhibitor" he sprayed on the bare metal so it didn't get a quick flash rust overnight.  Google that for details. I was able to paint over that no problem.  I bought a gallon of black Rust-Oleum paint and repainted it myself and it's like a new trailer.

 

Good luck,

 

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE


On April 23, 2020 at 9:04 PM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

Back in '08-'09, I had my TR3 body tub and frame blasted at a local powder coating company.  $300 each.  They blasted every square inch with crushed garnet.  The tub was stripped of every bolt-on part.  In two different visits, I set up both items on my makeshift engine stand rotisserie, with custom attachments, to make it a lot easier for them and the best outcome.  Worth every penny and more.

Skip this part if you can and have a company do this work.  You might even consider a mobile unit come to you.  Different media can be used depending on paint or rust.  Special care has to be taken on body parts, not to warp them, but if the person has a little finesse, any harm can be avoided.

The important part of good blasting is high CFM from the compressor.  If you don't have enough CFM, you'll be working way too hard for way too long. 

Dave H.

 

On April 23, 2020 at 8:25 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

I stripped a TR4 years ago over the course of I don't remember how many evenings after work, using several gallons of paint stripper bought at closeout tool store, saying never again and wishing I had a sandblaster.  

 

Be careful what you wish for I guess.

 

Greg Lemon

TR250

 

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 9:08 PM Jeff Scarbrough < fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 PM Michael Porter < mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

 

Which reminds me of J.E. Gordon's (The New Science of Strong Materials) remark about production welding:  "Welding is like Hell--fun for the first three or four hours."

 

 

There was a time when I couldn't wait to learn how to run the cotton picker at work.  It got old kind of quick...But it still beat a day in the office in front of the computer.

 

 

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Apr 25 08:08:49 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 10:08:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Goodparts
Message-ID: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>

List members

Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.

Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.

Thanks Richard.

JVV
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr 25 08:13:46 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 09:13:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <005201d61b0b$bc139b00$343ad100$@ranteer.com>

My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 9:09 AM
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>; WPTA e-Mail List <wpta at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Goodparts

 

List members

 

Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.

 

Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.

 

Thanks Richard.

 

JVV

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 25 11:10:53 2020
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 17:10:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <BL0PR02MB4514DDAC32F6EC3077D36267BAD10@BL0PR02MB4514.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

Yup, second that. Richard has gone above and beyond on some issues on a car I was working on where anybody else would have rightfully said "not my problem".

Marty

________________________________
From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jerry Van Vlack via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 10:08 AM
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>; WPTA e-Mail List <wpta at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Goodparts

List members

Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.

Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.

Thanks Richard.

JVV
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 11:44:38 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 13:44:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <18B22687-693C-4F35-9633-350E06331C7C@gmail.com>

I just bought more of his great parts for my Diablo TR6 project.  Wanted to help him out during this time.  Super guy and helped diagnose my suspension problem at 6pack trials at Fontana dam.  
Jim Henningsen 


> On Apr 25, 2020, at 10:09 AM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> List members
>  
> Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.
>  
> Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.
>  
> Thanks Richard.
>  
> JVV
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 25 12:27:54 2020
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (j t)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 18:27:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Sand Blasting
Message-ID: <BL0PR05MB566826D863AD01ADA5DB00A2B5D10@BL0PR05MB5668.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Hello Listers,

 I have a normal blasting cabinet and I use coal slag, Black Beauty, in it. It works well and does not clump as glass bead will if not kept dry.

 Last summer a friend who has a wet sending business helped me with my TR8 FHC. We took the paint off it in 2 hours with no panel damage. There was some material that bounced hitting the wind screen and one side window. Now we know to use double protection against bounce.

 FYI


CHEERS

John Taylor

133 Barton RD

Greenfield MA 01301 USA

413 478 3960


see me at:

My Flickr Album<https://www.flickr.com/photos/taylored-photos>

Web site :  johntaylor.photos


Member:  Brattleboro Camera Club<http://brattleborocameraclub.com/>

                Vermont Center for Photography


Life:  Life is NOT a race....you do not want to finish first !






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From keithstewart at bell.net  Sat Apr 25 15:21:27 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 17:21:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW:  Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <005201d61b0b$bc139b00$343ad100$@ranteer.com>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
 <005201d61b0b$bc139b00$343ad100$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <006e01d61b47$7b70db30$72529190$@bell.net>

Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts

 

My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended

 

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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Sat Apr 25 17:00:13 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 19:00:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sand Blasting
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR05MB566826D863AD01ADA5DB00A2B5D10@BL0PR05MB5668.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR05MB566826D863AD01ADA5DB00A2B5D10@BL0PR05MB5668.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <30E39BF3-DB53-4B0E-9B92-DCF3D8B4C0EF@columbus.rr.com>

IN ONE OF MY MORE CREATIVE MOMENTS??.. I CUT THE END OFF OF A LAWN ROLLER AND MADE IT REPLACEABLE. THEN PUT A COUPLE OF BUCKETS OF SAND IN IT CLOSED IT UP WITH THE PARTS I WANTED CLEANED UP. AND PULLED IT AROUND THE YARD WHILE MOWING .. 


WORKED ? BUT THE LAWN ROLLER WAS OLD AND RUSTY SO IT DIDN?I ;AST LONG


> On Apr 25, 2020, at 2:27 PM, j t <jat1127 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello Listers,
> 
>  I have a normal blasting cabinet and I use coal slag, Black Beauty, in it. It works well and does not clump as glass bead will if not kept dry.
> 
>  Last summer a friend who has a wet sending business helped me with my TR8 FHC. We took the paint off it in 2 hours with no panel damage. There was some material that bounced hitting the wind screen and one side window. Now we know to use double protection against bounce. 
> 
>  FYI
> 
> CHEERS
> John Taylor
> 133 Barton RD
> Greenfield MA 01301 USA
> 413 478 3960
> 
> see me at:
> My Flickr Album <https://www.flickr.com/photos/taylored-photos>  
> Web site :  johntaylor.photos
> 
> Member:  Brattleboro Camera Club <http://brattleborocameraclub.com/>
>                 Vermont Center for Photography
> 
> Life:  Life is NOT a race....you do not want to finish first !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trhouse at columbus.rr.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sat Apr 25 17:30:58 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 19:30:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <006e01d61b47$7b70db30$72529190$@bell.net>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
 <005201d61b0b$bc139b00$343ad100$@ranteer.com>
 <006e01d61b47$7b70db30$72529190$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>

Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality
parts for the TR3, too....   :- )



On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

> Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service
> that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ?
> quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few
> more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is
> greatly appreciated,
>
>
>
>
>
> Keith Stewart
>
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> *Sent:* April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] FW: Goodparts
>
>
>
> My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sat Apr 25 17:38:14 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 19:38:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <57810A86-4AC8-4B86-8938-55EF978419EE@aol.com>

I believe Richard Good started by making parts to improve his own cars.
So maybe if you give him a TR3...

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 7:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality 
> parts for the TR3, too....   :- )
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>> Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Keith Stewart
>> 
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
>> Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sat Apr 25 17:38:14 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 19:38:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <57810A86-4AC8-4B86-8938-55EF978419EE@aol.com>

I believe Richard Good started by making parts to improve his own cars.
So maybe if you give him a TR3...

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 7:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality 
> parts for the TR3, too....   :- )
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>> Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Keith Stewart
>> 
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
>> Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr 25 20:42:24 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 21:42:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <57810A86-4AC8-4B86-8938-55EF978419EE@aol.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <57810A86-4AC8-4B86-8938-55EF978419EE@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002b01d61b74$5165a320$f430e960$@ranteer.com>

He races that TR6.  It?s a gem.  From what I understand he runs over 12:1 compression in that engine.  It also has a big hulking steel guard around the flywheel in case it ever grenades

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jack McGahey
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 6:38 PM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Goodparts

 

I believe Richard Good started by making parts to improve his own cars.

So maybe if you give him a TR3...

Sent from my iPad





On Apr 25, 2020, at 7:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality 

parts for the TR3, too....   :- )

 

 

 

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

From: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> > 
Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts

 

My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 26 05:54:54 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 11:54:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] FW:  FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <002b01d61b74$5165a320$f430e960$@ranteer.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <57810A86-4AC8-4B86-8938-55EF978419EE@aol.com>
 <002b01d61b74$5165a320$f430e960$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1367618028.283552.1587902094231@mail.yahoo.com>

 What?? Does he not think that cardboard cover will contain all the shrapnel?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Apr 25, 2020 9:42 pm
Subject: [TR] FW: FW: Goodparts

&lt;!-- #yiv2628182561 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv2628182561 #yiv2628182561 p.yiv2628182561MsoNormal, #yiv2628182561 li.yiv2628182561MsoNormal, #yiv2628182561 div.yiv2628182561MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv2628182561 a:link, #yiv2628182561 span.yiv2628182561MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv2628182561 p.yiv2628182561gmail-m8972923131646917850msoplaintext, #yiv2628182561 li.yiv2628182561gmail-m8972923131646917850msoplaintext, #yiv2628182561 div.yiv2628182561gmail-m8972923131646917850msoplaintext {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv2628182561 span.yiv2628182561EmailStyle20 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv2628182561 .yiv2628182561MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {} #yiv2628182561 div.yiv2628182561WordSection1 {} --&gt;He races that TR6.? It?s a gem.? From what I understand he runs over 12:1 compression in that engine.? It also has a big hulking steel guard around the flywheel in case it ever grenades ?From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jack McGahey
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 6:38 PM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Goodparts ?I believe Richard Good started by making parts to improve his own cars.So maybe if you give him a TR3...Sent from my iPad


On Apr 25, 2020, at 7:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality?parts for the TR3, too....? ?:- ) ? ? ?On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,??Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net??From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts?My car is full of GoodParts!!? Highly recommended?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 26 08:44:43 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 09:44:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <8393D65235E24CB9832C228A6B12D02E@RYPC>
References: <8393D65235E24CB9832C228A6B12D02E@RYPC>
Message-ID: <E14C7E2D-8985-4BDD-8DBC-DAAC220492FC@yahoo.com>

Follow up: I found, for lack of a better term, a ?step grommet? at the Ace hardware.  Fits tight on the shaft and the collar fits the hole in the cup washer.  It looks like it will all be a good tight fit, final application will tell.  

Now, to attack that circlip, PO left it off all together.  

Bill TS30800L

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 24, 2020, at 11:52 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

?As I recall (it's been a lot of years), I propped the head of the bolt
against the base of the bench vise and used a long rod of some sort to hold
the spring compressed, then a tool like
https://is.gd/cChG1i 
to snap the clip into place.

I don't understand your comment about the hole being much bigger.  ISTR I
put mine together just as shown in the diagram, with the rubber washer under
the head of the long bolt.  Not a tight fit through the cupped washer, but
the rubber washer helps fill the gap.  

If you think yours is leaking between the big cupped washer and the main
housing, you might want to epoxy them back together.  

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of bill beecher
> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
> To: Randall
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
> 
> Thanks Randall,
> Yes, already checked the o-ring groove, learned that lesson a 
> few years back.  
> 
> I suppose the seal/washer needs to be between that cupped 
> washer as the hole is much larger than the bolt.  That's the 
> bit that confused me, along with how to get the circlip on 
> whilst the bolt is in the canister(mine was gone, never had one).
> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 26 08:44:43 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 09:44:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
In-Reply-To: <8393D65235E24CB9832C228A6B12D02E@RYPC>
References: <8393D65235E24CB9832C228A6B12D02E@RYPC>
Message-ID: <E14C7E2D-8985-4BDD-8DBC-DAAC220492FC@yahoo.com>

Follow up: I found, for lack of a better term, a ?step grommet? at the Ace hardware.  Fits tight on the shaft and the collar fits the hole in the cup washer.  It looks like it will all be a good tight fit, final application will tell.  

Now, to attack that circlip, PO left it off all together.  

Bill TS30800L

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 24, 2020, at 11:52 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

?As I recall (it's been a lot of years), I propped the head of the bolt
against the base of the bench vise and used a long rod of some sort to hold
the spring compressed, then a tool like
https://is.gd/cChG1i 
to snap the clip into place.

I don't understand your comment about the hole being much bigger.  ISTR I
put mine together just as shown in the diagram, with the rubber washer under
the head of the long bolt.  Not a tight fit through the cupped washer, but
the rubber washer helps fill the gap.  

If you think yours is leaking between the big cupped washer and the main
housing, you might want to epoxy them back together.  

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of bill beecher
> Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 9:25 AM
> To: Randall
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Purolator filter sequence?
> 
> Thanks Randall,
> Yes, already checked the o-ring groove, learned that lesson a 
> few years back.  
> 
> I suppose the seal/washer needs to be between that cupped 
> washer as the hole is much larger than the bolt.  That's the 
> bit that confused me, along with how to get the circlip on 
> whilst the bolt is in the canister(mine was gone, never had one).
> 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Apr 25 15:01:41 2020
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2020 17:01:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <B607DECC-0866-4A4B-8C4A-FE963A179E93@fuse.net>

I recently installed the Good Parts Nissan R200 limited slip differential, Nylatron swing arm bushings, rear hubs and C/V rear axles ( same as JVV) and was impressed with the design and quality of everything. I haven?t been able to drive it much lately due to the pandemic but could tell there was a huge improvement the few times I have gone for a drive.
Great job Richard
Dave Connitt 
DavesTR4A.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 10:09 AM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> List members
>  
> Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.
>  
> Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.
>  
> Thanks Richard.
>  
> JVV
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From john at linneyweb.com  Sun Apr 26 10:52:04 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 09:52:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <95E27442-1794-4BAD-8EDD-0B0B459461E7@linneyweb.com>

Because the TR3 is perfect already?

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 4:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality 
> parts for the TR3, too....   :- )
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>> Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Keith Stewart
>> 
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
>> Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From stan at redtr6.com  Sun Apr 26 12:26:24 2020
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 18:26:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <B607DECC-0866-4A4B-8C4A-FE963A179E93@fuse.net>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
 <B607DECC-0866-4A4B-8C4A-FE963A179E93@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR05MB698969BFA0B379459863892DFEAE0@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

As parts of my TR6 wore out or flat out broke like the pinion gear in the diff a couple of years ago I have replaced them all with stronger and better parts from Richard. Rear hubs, CV axles, R200 LSD. All really well designed and constructed and essentially drop in. My TR6 engine also has a GP3 cam, valve guides and PCV system (needed after a Weber conversion) from Richard and there are Goodparts steering rack mounts and front anti-roll bar. Cant say enough Good things about Goodparts and the service from Richard.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 5:02 PM
To: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; WPTA e-Mail List <wpta at autox.team.net>; FOT <fot at autox.team.net>; Richard Good <goodparts at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Goodparts

I recently installed the Good Parts Nissan R200 limited slip differential, Nylatron swing arm bushings, rear hubs and C/V rear axles ( same as JVV) and was impressed with the design and quality of everything. I haven?t been able to drive it much lately due to the pandemic but could tell there was a huge improvement the few times I have gone for a drive.
Great job Richard
Dave Connitt
DavesTR4A.com
Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 25, 2020, at 10:09 AM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com<mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
?
List members

Without going into a lot of detail I?m giving a big THANKS to Richard Good and his business Goodparts for a favor he did for me. He didn?t have to but he did and I appreciate him for doing so.

Richard?s parts are well engineered and well manufactured. Consider his upgrades, they are well worth the installation.

Thanks Richard.

JVV
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 26 14:25:14 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 20:25:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <95E27442-1794-4BAD-8EDD-0B0B459461E7@linneyweb.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <95E27442-1794-4BAD-8EDD-0B0B459461E7@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <1416735882.396925.1587932714656@mail.yahoo.com>

 There are those who would agree with that statement.
Who needs roll-up windows?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Apr 26, 2020 11:52 am
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Goodparts

Because the TR3 is perfect already?


On Apr 25, 2020, at 4:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:



?Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality?parts for the TR3, too....? ?:- )


On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ? quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is greatly appreciated,??Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net??From: dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
Sent: April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts?My car is full of GoodParts!!? Highly recommended?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 15:21:18 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 17:21:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <1416735882.396925.1587932714656@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwirhz4K1wNW8ONfGfn=6Y--hMhX4cXsw5YV09bc1jj+xg@mail.gmail.com>
 <95E27442-1794-4BAD-8EDD-0B0B459461E7@linneyweb.com>
 <1416735882.396925.1587932714656@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjPpNgmHp=ut7vhhW6OrZ9zMAZLMn0eUQoOmY7XOAz1QA@mail.gmail.com>

True, but those of us with TR3's could imagine a Goodparts version
of several TR3 components, no?

Dave

On Sun, Apr 26, 2020 at 4:25 PM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> There are those who would agree with that statement.
>
> Who needs roll-up windows?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
> To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Apr 26, 2020 11:52 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] FW: Goodparts
>
> Because the TR3 is perfect already?
>
> On Apr 25, 2020, at 4:31 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Now if we could only persuade RG to make some high quality
> parts for the TR3, too....   :- )
>
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 5:29 PM Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
> wrote:
>
> Mine aren't but I sure wish they were! Every product and every service
> that I have been involved in with Richard has been nothing but positive ?
> quality parts and great personal service! I think it is time to buy a few
> more items from RG. Keep up the good work. Your support of our hobby is
> greatly appreciated,
>
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
>
> *From:* dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> *Sent:* April 25, 2020 10:14 AM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] FW: Goodparts
>
> My car is full of GoodParts!!  Highly recommended
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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>
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Apr 26 17:49:55 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 19:49:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Where did this come from?
Message-ID: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>

 

After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.
Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the
restoration and just became dislodged.

 

I know there aren't too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same
as the TR250 or 6.

 

If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 20:21:45 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (anabil007)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 19:21:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Where did this come from?
In-Reply-To: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
References: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <8E8B3EDB-32B2-4759-80E5-DE3971295EC8@comcast.net>

Ash tray...?

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA


> On Apr 26, 2020, at 7:14 PM, andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
>  
> After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.  Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the restoration and just became dislodged.
>  
> I know there aren?t too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same as the TR250 or 6.
>  
> If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
> <IMG_20200425_162018.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
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> 
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Apr 26 20:40:31 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 19:40:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Where did this come from?
In-Reply-To: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
References: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1511537395.432095.1587955231456@connect.xfinity.com>

Looks like an electrical part, maybe switch back cover. 
Dave H. 

> On April 26, 2020 at 4:49 PM andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>      
> 
>     After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.  Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the restoration and just became dislodged.
> 
>      
> 
>     I know there aren?t too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same as the TR250 or 6.
> 
>      
> 
>     If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!
> 
>     Andrew Uprichard
> 
>     Jackson, Michigan
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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> 


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From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk  Mon Apr 27 05:06:00 2020
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 12:06:00 +0100
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  Where did this come from?
In-Reply-To: <1511537395.432095.1587955231456@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
 <1511537395.432095.1587955231456@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <002b01d61c83$d66a42f0$833ec8d0$@ukpips.org.uk>

If memory serves correctly, the fuel inertia switch to turn off the fuel pump in the boot in the event of emergency was positioned here. It was later moved to the engine bulkhead alongside the battery where a different switch was used. These were all light grey in colour and could be disabled/enabled by pressing the button on the bottom of the switch. Maybe this is where it?s currently located on this particular car and is probably as a result of a warranty recall notice issued at the time. This switch actually proved to be a very useful anti-theft deterrent on all the fuel injected cars made by the company.

 

Can?t be sure, but hell, it was fifty years ago and I?ve long since lost my file of Engineering Change bulletins / Service Rectification notes! ?

 

Jonmac

 

From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via 6pack
Sent: 27 April 2020 03:41
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Where did this come from?

 

Looks like an electrical part, maybe switch back cover.  

Dave H.  

On April 26, 2020 at 4:49 PM andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> > wrote: 

 

After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.  Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the restoration and just became dislodged. 

  

I know there aren?t too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same as the TR250 or 6. 

  

If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard 

Jackson, Michigan 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Apr 27 05:06:29 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 07:06:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Where did this come from?
In-Reply-To: <8E8B3EDB-32B2-4759-80E5-DE3971295EC8@comcast.net>
References: <02dc01d61c25$64a28af0$2de7a0d0$@uprichard.net>
 <8E8B3EDB-32B2-4759-80E5-DE3971295EC8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001e01d61c83$e7738750$b65a95f0$@charter.net>

That?s what I first thought but it looks like plastic to me.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of anabil007
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 10:22 PM
To: andrew uprichard
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Where did this come from?

 

Ash tray...?

Bill Pugh

Wallace, CA

 





On Apr 26, 2020, at 7:14 PM, andrew uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:

?

 

After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.  Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the restoration and just became dislodged.

 

I know there aren?t too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same as the TR250 or 6.

 

If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

<IMG_20200425_162018.jpg>

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Apr 27 11:08:56 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 13:08:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Where did this come from?
Message-ID: <002401d61cb6$8a0901c0$9e1b0540$@uprichard.net>

Thank you to all who replied, both on the list and individually.  Many
thought it was a fuse box cover - only problem is - there's no fuse box
inside the car.  After lying on my back in the driver's footwell with a
flashlight (and I am a big guy!), it turns out it was the seat belt buckle
!!

 

Andrew

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:50 PM
To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
'6pack at autox.team.net' <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Where did this come from?

 

 

After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.
Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the
restoration and just became dislodged.

 

I know there aren't too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same
as the TR250 or 6.

 

If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Apr 27 11:25:09 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 13:25:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW: Where did this come from?
Message-ID: <008d01d61cb8$ce0829d0$6a187d70$@uprichard.net>

 

Thank you to all who replied, both on the list and individually.  Many
thought it was a fuse box cover - only problem is - there's no fuse box
inside the car.  After lying on my back in the driver's footwell with a
flashlight (and I am a big guy!), it turns out it was the cover of the seat
belt buckle !!

 

Andrew

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net
<mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> > 
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 7:50 PM
To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' <triumphs at autox.team.net
<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >; '6pack at autox.team.net'
<6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Where did this come from?

 

 

After taking the TR5 for its first decent drive, I found this at my feet.
Not sure if it a TR5 part or maybe had been hanging around during the
restoration and just became dislodged.

 

I know there aren't too many TR5s out there, but so many parts are the same
as the TR250 or 6.

 

If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Apr 27 15:41:11 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 17:41:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
Message-ID: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>

So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly can I squeeze them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp like a piston ring compressor.  I bought the original style "unimproved" ones.

Thanks,

Art.

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 15:56:26 2020
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 14:56:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <000801d61cde$b387b0a0$1a9711e0$@net>

I don't know what you mean by "unimproved" but I was not able to get
anything other than the felt bush to fit. I did use a piece of a leather
belt until I could get the felt one from TRF. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art
McEwen
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 2:41 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing

So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly can I squeeze
them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp like a piston ring
compressor.  I bought the original style "unimproved" ones.

Thanks,

Art.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net


From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Apr 27 16:22:19 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 18:22:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <000801d61cde$b387b0a0$1a9711e0$@net>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
 <000801d61cde$b387b0a0$1a9711e0$@net>
Message-ID: <64E0D66A-54C4-43D8-87AB-D4B4330C2E3B@cogeco.ca>

Hi Bob, 

No not the felt one the 2 bearing/bushings that go either side of the split.  Moss part 525-020 vs 525-021

https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/suspension-steering/steering/steering-tr2-3b


> On Apr 27, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> I don't know what you mean by "unimproved" but I was not able to get
> anything other than the felt bush to fit. I did use a piece of a leather
> belt until I could get the felt one from TRF. 
> Bob
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art
> McEwen
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 2:41 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
> 
> So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly can I squeeze
> them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp like a piston ring
> compressor.  I bought the original style "unimproved" ones.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Art.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> 


From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 16:33:28 2020
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 15:33:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <64E0D66A-54C4-43D8-87AB-D4B4330C2E3B@cogeco.ca>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
 <000801d61cde$b387b0a0$1a9711e0$@net>
 <64E0D66A-54C4-43D8-87AB-D4B4330C2E3B@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <001501d61ce3$e02e6860$a08b3920$@net>

Moss lists those as for TR2 thru TR6. I know they didn't work in my TR3A, at
least not for me. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Art McEwen [mailto:amcewen2 at cogeco.ca] 
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 3:22 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing

Hi Bob, 

No not the felt one the 2 bearing/bushings that go either side of the split.
Moss part 525-020 vs 525-021

https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/suspension-steering/steering/steering
-tr2-3b


> On Apr 27, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
wrote:
> 
> I don't know what you mean by "unimproved" but I was not able to get 
> anything other than the felt bush to fit. I did use a piece of a 
> leather belt until I could get the felt one from TRF.
> Bob
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Art McEwen
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 2:41 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
> 
> So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly can I 
> squeeze them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp like a piston 
> ring compressor.  I bought the original style "unimproved" ones.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Art.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.ne
> t
> 



From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Apr 27 16:39:23 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 18:39:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <001501d61ce3$e02e6860$a08b3920$@net>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
 <000801d61cde$b387b0a0$1a9711e0$@net>
 <64E0D66A-54C4-43D8-87AB-D4B4330C2E3B@cogeco.ca>
 <001501d61ce3$e02e6860$a08b3920$@net>
Message-ID: <009001d61ce4$b43b8890$1cb299b0$@uprichard.net>

I have never had any luck with those things.  If anyone has, please tell us
!!

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 6:33 PM
To: 'Art McEwen' <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing

Moss lists those as for TR2 thru TR6. I know they didn't work in my TR3A, at
least not for me. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Art McEwen [mailto:amcewen2 at cogeco.ca]
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 3:22 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing

Hi Bob, 

No not the felt one the 2 bearing/bushings that go either side of the split.
Moss part 525-020 vs 525-021

https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/suspension-steering/steering/steering
-tr2-3b


> On Apr 27, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
wrote:
> 
> I don't know what you mean by "unimproved" but I was not able to get 
> anything other than the felt bush to fit. I did use a piece of a 
> leather belt until I could get the felt one from TRF.
> Bob
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Art McEwen
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 2:41 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
> 
> So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly can I 
> squeeze them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp like a piston 
> ring compressor.  I bought the original style "unimproved" ones.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Art.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.ne
> t
> 


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 27 16:49:23 2020
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 15:49:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <BA2880F220554B8CB822D751679B81FE@RYPC>

It's been awhile (they are only used in split column cars), but as I recall,
I squeezed just the ears with water pump pliers (similar to channel lock
pliers).  Had to start at the very edge and force just a bit into the
column, then take another "bite" and do it again.  Once the buttons were
roughly halfway into the column, I used a piece of pipe (or similar) to
drive them the rest of the way into position.

Not sure if they count as "improved" or not.  ISTR the ones I got (from TRF
probably) had only nylon and rubber, and did not have the third layer of
steel as the factory ones did.  But it's possible I'm thinking of the ones I
got for the Stag.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly 
> can I squeeze them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp 
> like a piston ring compressor.  I bought the original style 
> "unimproved" ones.


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Apr 27 18:29:43 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 17:29:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Automobile Quarterly
Message-ID: <11120C7D-7A10-42A9-84BF-813519E59296@comcast.net>

Bcc: Bill & AnnaBelle Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>

Bcc: Bill & AnnaBelle Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>

Gentlemen  / Ladies 

I have 156 issues of the  prestiges Automobile Quarterly (Limited Edition)

41 Quarters including the Very First edition in respect for Phil Hill.  These four (4) are a little rough but intact .

The rest are pristine ?

If you are not familiar with Automobile Quarterly ? then you should just go on to the next eMail.

If you Are ? They are now for sale.

The last time I saw them on eBay was 15 years ago, and the seller was asking $2000.00. I don?t know if they sold for that as I had just received them(ALL) from my very good friend who had passed away and willed them to me ? FYI ? the entire auto library was given to me, 

Four editions a year, from 1962-2001 are in my possession . If any of the Triumph community is interested or has some idea of what they are worth, and information would be helpful.

I will not break up the issues ? Out of my respect for Don, who chose to give them to me.

No ? we are not broke ? but I am 85 ? and I would like a true affecianodo to have them.

BeWell ? AB & I are fine


Bill Pugh
Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon Apr 27 19:53:03 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2020 21:53:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <BA2880F220554B8CB822D751679B81FE@RYPC>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
 <BA2880F220554B8CB822D751679B81FE@RYPC>
Message-ID: <A72C4C51-3C05-4965-984A-0B41C5621080@cogeco.ca>

It's rubber bonded to thin gauge metal with some sort plastic split ring inner liner.  I'm worried squeezing it will deform the inner 2 layers.  I'm wondering if freezing them will shrink them?

> On Apr 27, 2020, at 6:49 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> It's been awhile (they are only used in split column cars), but as I recall,
> I squeezed just the ears with water pump pliers (similar to channel lock
> pliers).  Had to start at the very edge and force just a bit into the
> column, then take another "bite" and do it again.  Once the buttons were
> roughly halfway into the column, I used a piece of pipe (or similar) to
> drive them the rest of the way into position.
> 
> Not sure if they count as "improved" or not.  ISTR the ones I got (from TRF
> probably) had only nylon and rubber, and did not have the third layer of
> steel as the factory ones did.  But it's possible I'm thinking of the ones I
> got for the Stag.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
>> So any trick to inserting them into the shaft?  How tightly 
>> can I squeeze them?  My current method is to use a hose clamp 
>> like a piston ring compressor.  I bought the original style 
>> "unimproved" ones.
> 


From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Apr 26 10:33:00 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 11:33:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Goodparts
In-Reply-To: <B607DECC-0866-4A4B-8C4A-FE963A179E93@fuse.net>
References: <6B80193C3953495E9790C050D75D7ED4@VlackTK121647>
 <B607DECC-0866-4A4B-8C4A-FE963A179E93@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZLEZ6tPj1VVwagnR-C_DWy0GjxTeQ3QYJr6Z8Yv9zG1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I put in the R200 in my TR250, finished the job a few weeks ago.  They
forgot to send the adapters for the axles.  I emailed Richard and he said
he would send out the parts right away, and he did in the middle everything
going on.  All the parts fit and work great.

It is also a super upgrade by the way.  Highly recommend.

Greg Lemon
TR250
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Apr 28 12:02:39 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2020 11:02:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone welded aluminum (diy)
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHtzW3wCxNxEcmcUqVgfagybmVv4AtY3gNfpYm9inHNJg@mail.gmail.com>

I saw this

https://www.alumiweld.com/awpricing.html

i need to  fix a bracket to a grill
HomeDepot has a similar product but cheaper

I have a propane torch used for copper pipes

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Wed Apr 29 07:15:32 2020
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 09:15:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3a split steering shaft bushing
In-Reply-To: <73208f661d70d.5ea97dd8@cgocable.ca>
References: <503E34E9-E3BD-4B16-8C37-C38191A5653B@cogeco.ca>
 <BA2880F220554B8CB822D751679B81FE@RYPC>
 <72e0812e1d168.5ea97d5f@cgocable.ca>
 <73208a9b1f835.5ea97d9b@cgocable.ca>
 <73208f661d70d.5ea97dd8@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <72b0971b18010.5ea945b4@cgocable.ca>

I successfully put the 1st one in at a 45 degree angle so that one of the ears was below the edge of the shaft. I used a flat screwdriver to help the other ear get started inside the shaft then pressed/tapped it down with a piece of hardwood.

The upper shaft that's still in the car might be more awkward.


On 04/27/20, Randall  <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> It's been awhile (they are only used in split column cars), but as I recall,
> I squeezed just the ears with water pump pliers (similar to channel lock
> pliers). Had to start at the very edge and force just a bit into the
> column, then take another "bite" and do it again. Once the buttons were
> roughly halfway into the column, I used a piece of pipe (or similar) to
> drive them the rest of the way into position.
> 
> Not sure if they count as "improved" or not. ISTR the ones I got (from TRF
> probably) had only nylon and rubber, and did not have the third layer of
> steel as the factory ones did. But it's possible I'm thinking of the ones I
> got for the Stag.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
> > So any trick to inserting them into the shaft? How tightly 
> > can I squeeze them? My current method is to use a hose clamp 
> > like a piston ring compressor. I bought the original style 
> > "unimproved" ones.
> 
> 
> 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Apr 29 07:47:17 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 08:47:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
Message-ID: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>

my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I
have to admit for all the years I've owned it (about 10) I have never put a
stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with
it half open.

 

Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?

 

The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although
a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there,
maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Apr 29 08:06:18 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 10:06:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CE7C9CF3306248F6ACFD0B16211623BF@VlackTK121647>

I seem to recall the stud was on the inside of passenger seat, but it?s been many years ago and two recovers in my 51 years of ownership so my memory might be a bit foggy. (Some will understand the foggy reference).
JVV

From: dave 
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 9:47 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap

my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.

 

Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?

 

The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Apr 29 08:18:50 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 10:18:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>

On a TR6, the stud is on the passenger seat. (presumably the same on a TR4?)
Seat upholstery covers the hole for the stud. I remember the first time I found one, the stud was actually covered by a previous owners reupholstery job - the stud was still there UNDER the upholstery.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.
>  
> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>  
> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
> <strap.jpg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Apr 29 08:18:50 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 10:18:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>

On a TR6, the stud is on the passenger seat. (presumably the same on a TR4?)
Seat upholstery covers the hole for the stud. I remember the first time I found one, the stud was actually covered by a previous owners reupholstery job - the stud was still there UNDER the upholstery.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.
>  
> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>  
> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
> <strap.jpg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Apr 29 09:18:10 2020
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 11:18:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] anyone welded aluminum (diy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHtzW3wCxNxEcmcUqVgfagybmVv4AtY3gNfpYm9inHNJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHtzW3wCxNxEcmcUqVgfagybmVv4AtY3gNfpYm9inHNJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d1d4ed24-4c8d-4f7e-a62c-76f5c4d869f3@verizon.net>

i couldnt access - maybe because i dont belong to the blog - could you send out the home depot item number for reference?

?Get BlueMail for Android ?

On Apr 28, 2020, 2:02 PM, at 2:02 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>I saw this
>
>https://www.alumiweld.com/awpricing.html
>
>i need to  fix a bracket to a grill
>HomeDepot has a similar product but cheaper
>
>I have a propane torch used for copper pipes
>
>Sujit
>
>-- 
>Sujit Roy
>Cupertino, California
>
>https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Apr 29 09:18:10 2020
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 11:18:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] anyone welded aluminum (diy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHtzW3wCxNxEcmcUqVgfagybmVv4AtY3gNfpYm9inHNJg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHtzW3wCxNxEcmcUqVgfagybmVv4AtY3gNfpYm9inHNJg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d1d4ed24-4c8d-4f7e-a62c-76f5c4d869f3@verizon.net>

i couldnt access - maybe because i dont belong to the blog - could you send out the home depot item number for reference?

?Get BlueMail for Android ?

On Apr 28, 2020, 2:02 PM, at 2:02 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>I saw this
>
>https://www.alumiweld.com/awpricing.html
>
>i need to  fix a bracket to a grill
>HomeDepot has a similar product but cheaper
>
>I have a propane torch used for copper pipes
>
>Sujit
>
>-- 
>Sujit Roy
>Cupertino, California
>
>https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Apr 29 09:59:48 2020
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 11:59:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <31A6B2F5-54BE-4C44-AD46-F3AE2B4DE1B1@fuse.net>



Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.
>  
> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>  
> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
> <strap.jpg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr 29 12:45:53 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 14:45:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>

Like, Dave, I too wondered where this strap attached.  Does anyone have a picture of the stud on the passenger seat?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jack McGahey
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 10:19 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap

 

On a TR6, the stud is on the passenger seat. (presumably the same on a TR4?)

Seat upholstery covers the hole for the stud. I remember the first time I found one, the stud was actually covered by a previous owners reupholstery job - the stud was still there UNDER the upholstery.

 

Cheers,

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad





On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> > wrote:

?

my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.

 

Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?

 

The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.

<strap.jpg>

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Apr 29 13:53:08 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 14:53:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>

I?m going to attach it to the seat frame that bolts into the floor (if it will reach!)

 

That would be different than on a TR6

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 1:46 PM
To: 'Jack McGahey' <McGaheyRx at aol.com>; 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] tonneau strap

 

Like, Dave, I too wondered where this strap attached.  Does anyone have a picture of the stud on the passenger seat?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Jack McGahey
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 10:19 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> >
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap

 

On a TR6, the stud is on the passenger seat. (presumably the same on a TR4?)

Seat upholstery covers the hole for the stud. I remember the first time I found one, the stud was actually covered by a previous owners reupholstery job - the stud was still there UNDER the upholstery.

 

Cheers,

Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

 

On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> > wrote:

?

my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out with it half open.

 

Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?

 

The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.

<strap.jpg>

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Apr 29 14:03:32 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 13:03:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>


I thought I had seen a picture before, but I couldn?t find it.  I did find this in the TR4A Spare Parts Catalog, at least you have a part number now!



-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Wed Apr 29 14:09:00 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:09:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 110
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1588183202.7080.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1588183202.7080.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <05ca01d61e62$060de310$1229a930$@bell.net>

The stud is mounted (threaded fastener and nut) to the passenger side seat
pan. There is a hole in the original seat pan for this stud. The stud
protrudes toward the transmission cover and the nut is on the inside of the
pan.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
triumphs-request at autox.team.net
Sent: April 29, 2020 2:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 110

Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
	triumphs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	triumphs-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr 29 14:14:38 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:14:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
 <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>
Message-ID: <00ea01d61e62$cfe814d0$6fb83e70$@uprichard.net>

What?s the facia??

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:04 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap

 

 

I thought I had seen a picture before, but I couldn?t find it.  I did find this in the TR4A Spare Parts Catalog, at least you have a part number now!

 



 

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA 

 

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Apr 29 14:17:41 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 13:17:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <00ea01d61e62$cfe814d0$6fb83e70$@uprichard.net>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
 <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>
 <00ea01d61e62$cfe814d0$6fb83e70$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <ACEB7985-38F7-4622-8C83-11DEFFEF52BC@mac.com>


I believe those are the snaps on top of the dash pad.

-Darrell

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 1:14 PM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> What?s the facia??
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:04 PM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap
>  
>  
> I thought I had seen a picture before, but I couldn?t find it.  I did find this in the TR4A Spare Parts Catalog, at least you have a part number now!
>  
> <image001.jpg>
>  
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA 

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr 29 14:17:42 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:17:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 110
In-Reply-To: <05ca01d61e62$060de310$1229a930$@bell.net>
References: <mailman.10.1588183202.7080.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <05ca01d61e62$060de310$1229a930$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <00fe01d61e63$3de0da30$b9a28e90$@uprichard.net>

Really?  The straps on my tonneaus (TR4, TR5) don't seem to reach that far
down.  But at least I now know they do have a purpose.  Thanks for the
information !

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 110

The stud is mounted (threaded fastener and nut) to the passenger side seat
pan. There is a hole in the original seat pan for this stud. The stud
protrudes toward the transmission cover and the nut is on the inside of the
pan.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net



-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
triumphs-request at autox.team.net
Sent: April 29, 2020 2:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 110

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Apr 29 14:20:08 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:20:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <ACEB7985-38F7-4622-8C83-11DEFFEF52BC@mac.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
 <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>
 <00ea01d61e62$cfe814d0$6fb83e70$@uprichard.net>
 <ACEB7985-38F7-4622-8C83-11DEFFEF52BC@mac.com>
Message-ID: <010401d61e63$946215e0$bd2641a0$@uprichard.net>

Thanks!  I have heard of fascia (cell phones, roof eaves and [in anatomy] subcutaneous tissues), but I had never heard of facia.  I learned something !

Andrew

 

From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:18 PM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap

 

 

I believe those are the snaps on top of the dash pad.

 

-Darrell





On Apr 29, 2020, at 1:14 PM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> > wrote:

 

What?s the facia??

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:04 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap

 

 

I thought I had seen a picture before, but I couldn?t find it.  I did find this in the TR4A Spare Parts Catalog, at least you have a part number now!

 

<image001.jpg>

 

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA 

 

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Apr 29 14:23:11 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 13:23:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <010401d61e63$946215e0$bd2641a0$@uprichard.net>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
 <26872442-0CC3-45BA-AAF6-922110FE7278@mac.com>
 <00ea01d61e62$cfe814d0$6fb83e70$@uprichard.net>
 <ACEB7985-38F7-4622-8C83-11DEFFEF52BC@mac.com>
 <010401d61e63$946215e0$bd2641a0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <4DE81303-C30A-4CDF-8CD3-B56F5D3DFFC1@mac.com>


Just checked Merrian-Webster?s online dictionary, and facia is a variate spelling of fascia.

> On Apr 29, 2020, at 1:20 PM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks!  I have heard of fascia (cell phones, roof eaves and [in anatomy] subcutaneous tissues), but I had never heard of facia.  I learned something !
> 
> Andrew
>  
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com <mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com>> 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:18 PM
> To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>>
> Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap
>  
>  
> I believe those are the snaps on top of the dash pad.
>  
> -Darrell
> 
> 
>> On Apr 29, 2020, at 1:14 PM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>> wrote:
>>  
>> What?s the facia??
>>  
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2020 4:04 PM
>> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] tonneau strap
>>  
>>  
>> I thought I had seen a picture before, but I couldn?t find it.  I did find this in the TR4A Spare Parts Catalog, at least you have a part number now!
>>  
>> <image001.jpg>
>>  
>> -- 
>> Darrell Walker
>> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
>> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
>> Vancouver, WA, USA

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Wed Apr 29 14:29:29 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 21:29:29 +0100
Subject: [TR] Shakespeare and Triumphs DO mix
Message-ID: <EB2B93AD-8798-4F0E-A7E8-F5382C760575@Ukpips.org.uk>

Sat down in front of the tv today to indulge in a bit of culture. The National Theatre in London (far too expensive for me to ever think of buying tickets for any production) have started running recorded productions through YouTube and the one I settled down to enjoy was ?Twelfth Night?.
It is now a regular thing to put on Shakespeare in the U.K. using modern clothing and very technically designed scenery but with the original language of 500 odd years ago. Today was no exception. 
In the original play, it opens with a shipwreck in the imaginary land of Illyria and probably a full blown ship and tons of water aren?t the most sensible ?props? for realism. So, instead of the ship crashing on to the revolving stage, a rather nice Conifer Green TR6 is substituted with all the lights on!!! Made a surprise change to what was an otherwise outstanding production (if olde Englishe, puns, Elizabethan humour and now obsolete words are your preferment?) I enjoy them, though many don?t - but ?twas a giggle to see the car. It could of course have been an MGB but clearly the production director has taste in choosing what he did.

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?



From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Apr 29 14:49:33 2020
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:49:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Shakespeare and Triumphs DO mix
In-Reply-To: <EB2B93AD-8798-4F0E-A7E8-F5382C760575@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <EB2B93AD-8798-4F0E-A7E8-F5382C760575@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <850023501.1540945.1588193373949@connect.xfinity.com>

Not particularly TR related, I guess.  I was an English Major in northern California in 1975 when our History of English Lit class took a field trip to ACT Theatre in San Francisco for my first Shakespeare play.  I seem to remember it was Richard II.  Behind me in the upper--upper--upper--did I say free?--nosebleed gallery, was a young man with a large bottle of whisky, which he drank directly from and offered some to me, which I declined.  

Then at one point in the play, a buxom...that is very buxom...actress reclined dramatically onto her back facing the audience and spilling her buxomness into the front row audience, as it were.  The inebriated man behind me yelled delightedly,  "What t...ts!"

The theatre turned to look upward at me as if I were the offender.  

Top tier 21 year old student that I was, I kept my eyes dutifully on the buxom...I mean...stage.  

I figured what the heck, we were all poets here, right????



> On April 29, 2020 at 4:29 PM John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> 
> Sat down in front of the tv today to indulge in a bit of culture. The National Theatre in London (far too expensive for me to ever think of buying tickets for any production) have started running recorded productions through YouTube and the one I settled down to enjoy was ?Twelfth Night?.
> It is now a regular thing to put on Shakespeare in the U.K. using modern clothing and very technically designed scenery but with the original language of 500 odd years ago. Today was no exception. 
> In the original play, it opens with a shipwreck in the imaginary land of Illyria and probably a full blown ship and tons of water aren?t the most sensible ?props? for realism. So, instead of the ship crashing on to the revolving stage, a rather nice Conifer Green TR6 is substituted with all the lights on!!! Made a surprise change to what was an otherwise outstanding production (if olde Englishe, puns, Elizabethan humour and now obsolete words are your preferment?) I enjoy them, though many don?t - but ?twas a giggle to see the car. It could of course have been an MGB but clearly the production director has taste in choosing what he did.
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
> Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
> Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Apr 29 15:02:30 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:02:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZniX7VDt0kff4JGsib1s8A3JemA2o+9p6RR_81dK8pOQ@mail.gmail.com>

I generally like to keep things original, but have had that strap on many
cars and eventually snip it off as I never use it.  I think long ago I had
a Sprite or something that still had the original attachment point, but for
the life of me can't remember exactly where the snap was.  The passenger
seat kinda sorta makes sense as the driver might be able to attach somewhat
by sight, and not just by feel.  Now I want to see a pic of an original
snap.  Although I think the tonneau was an option on the TR4, so dealer or
customer installed, maybe the answer is that it varies.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Wed, Apr 29, 2020, 1:46 PM andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> Like, Dave, I too wondered where this strap attached.  Does anyone have a
> picture of the stud on the passenger seat?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Jack
> McGahey
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 29, 2020 10:19 AM
> *To:* dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> *Cc:* Triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] tonneau strap
>
>
>
> On a TR6, the stud is on the passenger seat. (presumably the same on a
> TR4?)
>
> Seat upholstery covers the hole for the stud. I remember the first time I
> found one, the stud was actually covered by a previous owners reupholstery
> job - the stud was still there UNDER the upholstery.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> On Apr 29, 2020, at 9:54 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I
> have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a
> stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out
> with it half open.
>
>
>
> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>
>
>
> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard
> although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it
> there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
>
> <strap.jpg>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Apr 29 17:03:31 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 18:03:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW:  tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <45EF0435-B370-472D-BC20-CEC3C12D6FF2@aol.com>
 <009801d61e56$6a558aa0$3f009fe0$@uprichard.net>
 <009301d61e5f$ce755250$6b5ff6f0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <00c301d61e7a$678c0000$36a40000$@ranteer.com>

I just checked ? it will attach to the passenger side seat frame no problem.   it is vinyl covered;  I?ll look for a likely hole or make one if I have to

 

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Apr 29 17:04:28 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 16:04:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEicKcE6p8-KxLzP0xYivyQpJAeEHJG5TD2Rwugb62aOw@mail.gmail.com>

Can anyone tell me what value fuse this is ? It seems to be green in color.

Sujit

[image: 20200429_115528.jpg]

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 29 18:45:47 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 19:45:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEicKcE6p8-KxLzP0xYivyQpJAeEHJG5TD2Rwugb62aOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEicKcE6p8-KxLzP0xYivyQpJAeEHJG5TD2Rwugb62aOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FE2A77B2-165A-43FE-AA3E-1A6BAC559D80@yahoo.com>

Didn?t know those type fuses were color coded.  I can see there is some markings on the metal end, that should tell you the amp rating. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 29, 2020, at 6:06 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Can anyone tell me what value fuse this is ? It seems to be green in color.

Sujit

<20200429_115528.jpg>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 29 18:45:47 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 19:45:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEicKcE6p8-KxLzP0xYivyQpJAeEHJG5TD2Rwugb62aOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEicKcE6p8-KxLzP0xYivyQpJAeEHJG5TD2Rwugb62aOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FE2A77B2-165A-43FE-AA3E-1A6BAC559D80@yahoo.com>

Didn?t know those type fuses were color coded.  I can see there is some markings on the metal end, that should tell you the amp rating. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 29, 2020, at 6:06 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Can anyone tell me what value fuse this is ? It seems to be green in color.

Sujit

<20200429_115528.jpg>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed Apr 29 22:32:31 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 21:32:31 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
Message-ID: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Apr 29 22:39:29 2020
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2020 21:39:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <f42fb240-2c34-83ec-1340-8c2fd0576160@gmail.com>

On 4/29/20 9:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> Could the color be oxidation of some sort.? Copper will go green.? The 
> proper fuses are inexpensive.? I'd just get some new ones.? Get them 
> from a British parts supplier as they are rated to a different 
> standard than American ones.

And I just happen t have an equivalency table in my TR web site

http://www.tr3a.info/fuses.htm

TeriAnn

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Apr 30 06:11:01 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:11:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
Message-ID: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>

I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the
sidescreen car.  I always thought it was the driver's seat, but maybe I have
been wrong.  What say you all?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 07:44:13 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:44:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>

Andrew,
Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 30, 2020, at 7:11 AM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:

?
I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the sidescreen car.  I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but maybe I have been wrong.  What say you all?
 
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 07:44:13 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:44:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>

Andrew,
Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 
Bill

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 30, 2020, at 7:11 AM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:

?
I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the sidescreen car.  I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but maybe I have been wrong.  What say you all?
 
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr 30 07:46:16 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:46:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.103.1588254500.2961.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Passenger
-------- Original message --------From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> Date: 4/30/20  7:11 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3 I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the sidescreen car. ?I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but maybe I have been wrong.? What say you all??Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Apr 30 07:54:18 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 09:54:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <8122f444-1c6a-746d-4791-a9b539c2f13f@adelphia.net>

Andrew,

It has always been my belief that the passenger seat that tilts forward. 
At least that is how I set up my 58.

Bob

On 4/30/20 8:11 AM, andrew uprichard wrote:
>
> I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in 
> the sidescreen car. ?I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but 
> maybe I have been wrong.? What say you all?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Apr 30 08:08:05 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 10:08:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <2111039192.1710668.1588255555740@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <2111039192.1710668.1588255555740@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <025901d61ef8$c5b25610$51170230$@uprichard.net>

Passenger it is !!

 

Thank you all for your replies.

Andrew

 

From: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 10:06 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

passenger 

On April 30, 2020 at 8:11 AM andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> > wrote: 

I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the sidescreen car.  I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but maybe I have been wrong.  What say you all? 

  

Andrew Uprichard 

Jackson, Michigan 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Apr 30 09:40:20 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:40:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEw9tUMdDCNbtWe8xKe8B7G_uQjpvBhm=kK6X+X6rk56w@mail.gmail.com>

Here are some photos of the stud location.  In the underneath shot you can
see the nut that holds the LTD stud.  I always use the strap when the
tonneau is on - greatly reduces flapping at speed.

[image: Tonneau Strap 2.JPG]

[image: Tonneau Strap 1.JPG]

[image: Tonneau Strap 3.JPG]

On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 6:55 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I
> have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a
> stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out
> with it half open.
>
>
>
> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>
>
>
> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard
> although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it
> there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Apr 30 09:48:36 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 08:48:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] tonneau strap
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEw9tUMdDCNbtWe8xKe8B7G_uQjpvBhm=kK6X+X6rk56w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003801d61e2c$b2d97b80$188c7280$@ranteer.com>
 <CANzE1bEw9tUMdDCNbtWe8xKe8B7G_uQjpvBhm=kK6X+X6rk56w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEr4z5sg2DAiVirqaHW8V7y908gaaULW7HWnkOmHqF=WA@mail.gmail.com>

Okay, I just read the digest response that mentioned 'the seat pan'.  My
photos are of the later seat (no pan) so it may be the case that a tonneau
from an early TR4 will have a longer strap than a tonneau from a later TR4
- which may account for Andrew's strap seeming to be short.

On Thu, Apr 30, 2020 at 8:40 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Here are some photos of the stud location.  In the underneath shot you can
> see the nut that holds the LTD stud.  I always use the strap when the
> tonneau is on - greatly reduces flapping at speed.
>
> [image: Tonneau Strap 2.JPG]
>
> [image: Tonneau Strap 1.JPG]
>
> [image: Tonneau Strap 3.JPG]
>
> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 6:55 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> my early TR4 came with this strap hanging down from the tonneau cover.  I
>> have to admit for all the years I?ve owned it (about 10) I have never put a
>> stud in so I can actually strap it down.  Would probably help while out
>> with it half open.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone else have this strap and where have you put the stud?
>>
>>
>>
>> The tunnel, interesting enough, is probably the original cardboard
>> although a previous owner fiberglassed it.  So I could probably attach it
>> there, maybe with a small metal patch to give it some support.
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>>
>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Apr 30 12:00:55 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 11:00:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <f42fb240-2c34-83ec-1340-8c2fd0576160@gmail.com>
References: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
 <f42fb240-2c34-83ec-1340-8c2fd0576160@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFfu2yWQFNeznVebHOsMC_2p7BQcbmd+korZfNEjbEpqw@mail.gmail.com>

There is what looks like a green paint mark on it. I'm aware British cars
need British fuses. Mainly trying to find out for curiosity


On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 9:40 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
wrote:

> On 4/29/20 9:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
>
> Could the color be oxidation of some sort.  Copper will go green.  The
> proper fuses are inexpensive.  I'd just get some new ones.  Get them from a
> British parts supplier as they are rated to a different standard than
> American ones.
>
> And I just happen t have an equivalency table in my TR web site
>
> http://www.tr3a.info/fuses.htm
>
> TeriAnn
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu Apr 30 12:56:53 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 14:56:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>

I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

Andrew,

Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 

 

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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Thu Apr 30 13:14:23 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 12:14:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
 <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??

 

Jonas

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> > 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

Andrew,

Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 

 

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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 30 14:13:08 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (anabil007)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 13:13:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <A6A817D9-8FE6-425A-85C8-63159F14E733@comcast.net>

Passenger...

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA


> On Apr 30, 2020, at 5:11 AM, andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have just read two conflicting accounts of which seat should tilt in the sidescreen car.  I always thought it was the driver?s seat, but maybe I have been wrong.  What say you all?
>  
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Apr 30 14:26:53 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 16:26:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
 <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
 <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>
Message-ID: <00b801d61f2d$b0b3c890$121b59b0$@uprichard.net>

The tilting parts rests on two lugs ? are they still intact or did they break off?

 

My ?keeper? cars all have purpose made seats as I am not a fan of the originals ? see pic.  But I also have a recently-finished ?car to sell? with original seats (pic 2) ? only I now have to swap them so the tilting one is on the passenger side????

 

Andrew

 

From: jpaynepbr at cox.net <jpaynepbr at cox.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 3:14 PM
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??

 

Jonas

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> >; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> > 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

Andrew,

Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 

 

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Apr 30 14:36:27 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 16:36:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] FW:  Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
 <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
 <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net> 
Message-ID: <00cb01d61f2f$065eac00$131c0400$@uprichard.net>

Not sure if the pics exceeds the allowable limit?

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 4:27 PM
To: 'jpaynepbr at cox.net' <jpaynepbr at cox.net>; 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

The tilting parts rests on two lugs ? are they still intact or did they break off?

 

My ?keeper? cars all have purpose made seats as I am not a fan of the originals ? see pic.  But I also have a recently-finished ?car to sell? with original seats (pic 2) ? only I now have to swap them so the tilting one is on the passenger side????

 

Andrew

 

From: jpaynepbr at cox.net <mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net>  <jpaynepbr at cox.net <mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net> > 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 3:14 PM
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> >; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> >; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??

 

Jonas

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> >; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> > 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

Andrew,

Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 

 

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Thu Apr 30 14:41:48 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 21:41:48 +0100
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFfu2yWQFNeznVebHOsMC_2p7BQcbmd+korZfNEjbEpqw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
 <f42fb240-2c34-83ec-1340-8c2fd0576160@gmail.com>
 <CANLCLaFfu2yWQFNeznVebHOsMC_2p7BQcbmd+korZfNEjbEpqw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B84DB160-ED87-4B43-BF28-C4C9E731112F@Ukpips.org.uk>

That green band on Sujits post got me thinking. I remember them and i *think* they are radio fuses that go into the fuse holder on the radios live supply. Spent a long time yesterday trying to find a similar one without success. Please don?t take this as gospel info! I?ve recently been diagnosed with early onset vascular dementia and that means while I can still *remember* many things with great clarity, I may be pointing in the wrong direction while being completely unaware of it:)

Jonmac

At the Battle of Waterloo, 1815:
Lord Uxbridge:  ?By God, Sir - I?ve lost my leg?
Duke of Wellington: ?By God, Sir - so you have!?


> On 30 Apr 2020, at 19:00, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> There is what looks like a green paint mark on it. I'm aware British cars need British fuses. Mainly trying to find out for curiosity
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 9:40 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On 4/29/20 9:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
>>> Could the color be oxidation of some sort.  Copper will go green.  The proper fuses are inexpensive.  I'd just get some new ones.  Get them from a British parts supplier as they are rated to a different standard than American ones.
>> And I just happen t have an equivalency table in my TR web site
>> 
>> http://www.tr3a.info/fuses.htm
>> 
>> TeriAnn
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From tochilds at bellsouth.net  Thu Apr 30 14:52:51 2020
From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (James Childs)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:52:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] How to identify fuse value from a color
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFfu2yWQFNeznVebHOsMC_2p7BQcbmd+korZfNEjbEpqw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2120601989.54.1588221151334@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
 <f42fb240-2c34-83ec-1340-8c2fd0576160@gmail.com>
 <CANLCLaFfu2yWQFNeznVebHOsMC_2p7BQcbmd+korZfNEjbEpqw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1077505834.86371.1588279971558@mail.yahoo.com>

 Found this on the web (Wikipedia).? Don't know if it is accurate or not but it is a Lucas chart so who knows!

Lucas type[edit]

Lucas?type fuses are used in old British-made or assembled automobiles. The physical length of the Lucas ceramic type of fuse is either 1 inch or 1.25 inch, with conical ends. Lucas Glass tube fuses have straight ends. Lucas type fuses usually use the same color-coding for the rated current. Lucas fuses have three ratings; the continuous current they are designed to carry, the instantaneous current at which they will fuse, and the continuous current at which they will also fuse. The figure found on Lucas fuses is the continuous fusing current which is twice the continuous ampere rating that the system should be using; this can be a source of confusion when replacing Lucas fuses with non Lucas fuses. The Lucas 1/4" diameter glass tube fuse have a different length as compared to the standard US item. The Lucas 1/4" diameter glass tube fuse is 1 and 5/32" [?29.4?mm] long, while the US standard 1/4" glass tube fuse is 1 and 1/4" [?32.0?mm] long. However many Lucas fuse holders permit the longer U.S. version to be installed easily.

Color coding[edit]

| Color | Continuous?ampere?(=rated current) | Instantaneous fusing?ampere | Continuous fusing?ampere |
| Blue | 1.5 | 3.5 | 3 |
| Yellow | 2.25 | 5 | 4.5 |
| Red on Yellow | 2.5 | 6 | 5 |
| Green | 3 | 7 | 6 |
| Nut Brown | 4 | 10 | 8 |
| Red on Green | 5 | 12 | 10 |
| Green on Black | 5 | 12 | 10 |
| Red on Brown | 6 | 14 | 12 |
| Light Brown | 7.5 | 18 | 15 |
| Pink | 12.5 | 30 | 25 |
| White | 17.5 | 40 | 35 |
| Purple on Yellow | 25 | 60 | 50 |
| Yellow on Red | 30 | 75 | 60 |



Tony Childs1973 Triumph Stag1972 Triumph Spitfire MKIV

    On Thursday, April 30, 2020, 02:06:08 PM EDT, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 There is what looks like a green paint mark on it. I'm aware British cars need British fuses. Mainly trying to find out for curiosity

On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 9:40 PM TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:

  On 4/29/20 9:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
  
  Could the color be oxidation of some sort.? Copper will go green.? The proper fuses are inexpensive.? I'd just get some new ones.? Get them from a British parts supplier as they are rated to a different standard than American ones.  
 
And I just happen t have an equivalency table in my TR web site
 
http://www.tr3a.info/fuses.htm
 
TeriAnn
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com



-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tochilds at bellsouth.net
  
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Apr 30 17:21:37 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 16:21:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs briefly mentioned in Barn Find Hunter
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHyTx0x_w+o5fpuV0Z3bkwSu2ygf6mmcMbtcN1fXGa5YA@mail.gmail.com>

Two triumph's mentioned in this episode of Barn Hunter: A Stag and a
Herald. A Spitfire is in the yard.



https://www.hagerty.com/media/videos/barn-find-hunter-100-car-field-in-atlanta/


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr 30 14:28:06 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 20:28:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
 <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
 <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>
Message-ID: <174575618.32773.1588278486937@mail.yahoo.com>

 If it is of the folding variety you can block up the back so that it doesn't go so far back.? If it a non-folding seat, good luck.? Those are welded up in that position and you would have to cut the welds and reweld it in the desired position.? It might be a better/easier fix to have an upholsterer change the padding adding more up top provide more support up top and less below.
Or fit Miata seats.? ;-)
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 30, 2020 2:14 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

#yiv3944623705 #yiv3944623705 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3944623705 #yiv3944623705 p.yiv3944623705MsoNormal, #yiv3944623705 li.yiv3944623705MsoNormal, #yiv3944623705 div.yiv3944623705MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3944623705 a:link, #yiv3944623705 span.yiv3944623705MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3944623705 span.yiv3944623705EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3944623705 .yiv3944623705MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3944623705 div.yiv3944623705WordSection1 {}#yiv3944623705 As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.? What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright?? ?Jonas ? ?From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3 ?I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs. ? ?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net ? ? ?From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3 ?Andrew,Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded. ?On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that.? ?
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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Thu Apr 30 16:27:39 2020
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 15:27:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <00b801d61f2d$b0b3c890$121b59b0$@uprichard.net>
References: <01a401d61ee8$6acacd50$406067f0$@uprichard.net>
 <5F8041A0-F7B3-47EB-AC75-6DA64EED4FF0@yahoo.com>
 <07ce01d61f21$1d8dea70$58a9bf50$@bell.net>
 <000001d61f23$90fd63d0$b2f82b70$@cox.net>
 <00b801d61f2d$b0b3c890$121b59b0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <000001d61f3e$90d32b40$b27981c0$@cox.net>

Those are pretty sharp Andrew

 

 

From: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 1:27 PM
To: jpaynepbr at cox.net; 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

The tilting parts rests on two lugs ? are they still intact or did they break off?

 

My ?keeper? cars all have purpose made seats as I am not a fan of the originals ? see pic.  But I also have a recently-finished ?car to sell? with original seats (pic 2) ? only I now have to swap them so the tilting one is on the passenger side????

 

Andrew

 

From: jpaynepbr at cox.net <mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net>  <jpaynepbr at cox.net <mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net> > 
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 3:14 PM
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> >; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> >; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??

 

Jonas

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> >; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

 

 

From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com <mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com> > 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

 

Andrew,

Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 

 

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 17:35:16 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 18:35:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <174575618.32773.1588278486937@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <174575618.32773.1588278486937@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A58E4F9-74EE-4917-97E1-41F309EC2CB9@yahoo.com>

Jonas,
You can add spacers under the track, I did this by cutting a long wedge to support the length of the track.  Longer bolts, Bob?s yer uncle. 
Bill
TS30800L

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 30, 2020, at 3:28 PM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

?
If it is of the folding variety you can block up the back so that it doesn't go so far back.  If it a non-folding seat, good luck.  Those are welded up in that position and you would have to cut the welds and reweld it in the desired position.  It might be a better/easier fix to have an upholsterer change the padding adding more up top provide more support up top and less below.

Or fit Miata seats.  ;-)

Dave 



-----Original Message-----
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 30, 2020 2:14 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??
 
Jonas
 
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
 
I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.
 
 
Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net
 
 
 
From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
 
Andrew,
Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 
 

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 30 17:35:16 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2020 18:35:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
In-Reply-To: <174575618.32773.1588278486937@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <174575618.32773.1588278486937@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A58E4F9-74EE-4917-97E1-41F309EC2CB9@yahoo.com>

Jonas,
You can add spacers under the track, I did this by cutting a long wedge to support the length of the track.  Longer bolts, Bob?s yer uncle. 
Bill
TS30800L

Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. 

On Apr 30, 2020, at 3:28 PM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

?
If it is of the folding variety you can block up the back so that it doesn't go so far back.  If it a non-folding seat, good luck.  Those are welded up in that position and you would have to cut the welds and reweld it in the desired position.  It might be a better/easier fix to have an upholsterer change the padding adding more up top provide more support up top and less below.

Or fit Miata seats.  ;-)

Dave 



-----Original Message-----
To: 'Keith Stewart' <keithstewart at bell.net>; 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 30, 2020 2:14 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3

As a side note to this, my TR3 driver seat back leans rearward too much for my liking.  What is the thinking on making it more 
?upright??
 
Jonas
 
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Keith Stewart
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2020 11:57 AM
To: 'bill beecher' <notakitcar at yahoo.com>; 'andrew uprichard' <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
 
I think the ?both sides folding forward? condition resulted from a replacement of the driver?s seat with a passenger one. One or two of my parts cars came that way. The driver?s seat would wear out/break more so than the passenger one through greater use. I simple fix for a worn out/deteriorated driver seat would be a better condition passenger seat from another car. Didn?t work so well on TR4As and TR6s because of the different shape of the seat backs.
 
 
Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net
 
 
 
From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> 
Sent: April 30, 2020 9:44 AM
To: andrew uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tilting seat on the TR2 and TR3
 
Andrew,
Looking at the VTR Judging guide, neither seat folded forward until TS8637, after that only the passenger seat folded.  On my TS30800 both seats fold forward, I quite like that. 
 

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