From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec  1 13:04:16 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 15:04:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
Message-ID: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>

Has anyone been in touch with Randy Keller at Prestige lately? I can?t get their website to load and someone else called them and the number was ?not in service?.

Hate to see a quality shop like this close up.

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

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From jeffn at msystech.com  Tue Dec  1 13:41:48 2020
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 15:41:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
In-Reply-To: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>
References: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <009101d6c822$6558a5c0$3009f140$@msystech.com>

Bob,

 

I bought a beautiful dash from Randy last March (Yes, I know, not lately). He made mine special so that the finger pull for the glove compartment fits perfectly. I did hear from Matt Bakes from Triumph Rescue in Pennsylvania ,several months ago, that Randy was trying to sell Matt some dashes. Matt?s number is: 610-845-8217, if you want to follow up.

And yes, Randy sure is quite the artist, and we?ll miss his perfection if he?s no longer around. He was also great to chat with on the phone.

 

Jeff N.

?72 TR6



 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 3:04 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

 

Has anyone been in touch with Randy Keller at Prestige lately? I can?t get their website to load and someone else called them and the number was ?not in service?.

 

Hate to see a quality shop like this close up.

 

Thanks

Bob

 

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

 

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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Dec  1 14:10:16 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 16:10:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
In-Reply-To: <009101d6c822$6558a5c0$3009f140$@msystech.com>
References: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>
 <009101d6c822$6558a5c0$3009f140$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <0Lp4sc-1kE9wj1Yfc-00euD3@mrelay.perfora.net>

I?m all set with a customized dash he made for me two years ago. I referred someone to him and he told me that the number is not in service. Then I heard from someone else on FB that he?s retired!  Good for him and bad for the TR community. He was also a supplier for Moss and VB

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

From: Jeff Nathanson
Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 3:41 PM
To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: RE: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

Bob,

I bought a beautiful dash from Randy last March (Yes, I know, not lately). He made mine special so that the finger pull for the glove compartment fits perfectly. I did hear from Matt Bakes from Triumph Rescue in Pennsylvania ,several months ago, that Randy was trying to sell Matt some dashes. Matt?s number is: 610-845-8217, if you want to follow up.
And yes, Randy sure is quite the artist, and we?ll miss his perfection if he?s no longer around. He was also great to chat with on the phone.

Jeff N.
?72 TR6

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 3:04 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

Has anyone been in touch with Randy Keller at Prestige lately? I can?t get their website to load and someone else called them and the number was ?not in service?.

Hate to see a quality shop like this close up.

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm


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From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Dec  1 14:26:48 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2020 16:26:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
In-Reply-To: <0Lp4sc-1kE9wj1Yfc-00euD3@mrelay.perfora.net>
References: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>
 <009101d6c822$6558a5c0$3009f140$@msystech.com>
 <0Lp4sc-1kE9wj1Yfc-00euD3@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <95fe810c-71cd-4d71-b95a-8e2e75baf428@snet.net>

There's? a guy in Norwalk, Ct. CG Autowood.? He does nice work. He made a wood set for my Stag.
?Sent from BlueMail ?

On Dec 1, 2020, 4:11 PM, at 4:11 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
>I?m all set with a customized dash he made for me two years ago. I
>referred someone to him and he told me that the number is not in
>service. Then I heard from someone else on FB that he?s retired!  Good
>for him and bad for the TR community. He was also a supplier for Moss
>and VB
>
>Bob Danielson
>TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
>
>From: Jeff Nathanson
>Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 3:41 PM
>To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Triumphs'
>Subject: RE: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
>
>Bob,
>
>I bought a beautiful dash from Randy last March (Yes, I know, not
>lately). He made mine special so that the finger pull for the glove
>compartment fits perfectly. I did hear from Matt Bakes from Triumph
>Rescue in Pennsylvania ,several months ago, that Randy was trying to
>sell Matt some dashes. Matt?s number is: 610-845-8217, if you want to
>follow up.
>And yes, Randy sure is quite the artist, and we?ll miss his perfection
>if he?s no longer around. He was also great to chat with on the phone.
>
>Jeff N.
>?72 TR6
>
>From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>Bob Danielson
>Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 3:04 PM
>To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
>
>Has anyone been in touch with Randy Keller at Prestige lately? I can?t
>get their website to load and someone else called them and the number
>was ?not in service?.
>
>Hate to see a quality shop like this close up.
>
>Thanks
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Dec  1 16:03:33 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 18:03:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?
In-Reply-To: <95fe810c-71cd-4d71-b95a-8e2e75baf428@snet.net>
References: <1MYe2J-1kfZJK1dit-00VfYv@mrelay.perfora.net>
 <009101d6c822$6558a5c0$3009f140$@msystech.com>
 <0Lp4sc-1kE9wj1Yfc-00euD3@mrelay.perfora.net>
 <95fe810c-71cd-4d71-b95a-8e2e75baf428@snet.net>
Message-ID: <002a01d6c836$31604430$9420cc90$@charter.net>

That would be Gary Cimino  -  https://cgautowood.com/index.php?route=common/home 

 

Very nice products ? he used to have a booth at our show.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 4:27 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

 

There's  a guy in Norwalk, Ct. CG Autowood.  He does nice work. He made a wood set for my Stag.

Sent from BlueMail <http://www.bluemail.me/r?b=16117>  

On Dec 1, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

I?m all set with a customized dash he made for me two years ago. I referred someone to him and he told me that the number is not in service. Then I heard from someone else on FB that he?s retired!  Good for him and bad for the TR community. He was also a supplier for Moss and VB

 

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

 

From: Jeff Nathanson <mailto:jeffn at msystech.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 3:41 PM
To: 'Bob Danielson' <mailto:75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> ; 'Triumphs' <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: RE: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

 

Bob,

 

I bought a beautiful dash from Randy last March (Yes, I know, not lately). He made mine special so that the finger pull for the glove compartment fits perfectly. I did hear from Matt Bakes from Triumph Rescue in Pennsylvania ,several months ago, that Randy was trying to sell Matt some dashes. Matt?s number is: 610-845-8217, if you want to follow up.

And yes, Randy sure is quite the artist, and we?ll miss his perfection if he?s no longer around. He was also great to chat with on the phone.

 

Jeff N.

?72 TR6

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 3:04 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Prestige Autowood?

 

Has anyone been in touch with Randy Keller at Prestige lately? I can?t get their website to load and someone else called them and the number was ?not in service?.

 

Hate to see a quality shop like this close up.

 

Thanks

Bob

 

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
 <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  1 18:03:44 2020
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 01:03:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] Free Triumph test stand
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR02MB4514CC7F692E2D38FDB2E8B3BAF80@BL0PR02MB4514.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR02MB4514CC7F692E2D38FDB2E8B3BAF80@BL0PR02MB4514.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR02MB451417887C75266AFD92B48DBAF30@BL0PR02MB4514.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>


 Can anybody use a free test stand? It's not pretty, put together from what I had in the shop, but it works great for test running engines. Currently set up for the 6-cylinder engines.  All you need is a battery and engine and you will be making sweet noises. You would have to come to Grafton Ohio with your pickup truck, no shipping.

Marty


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From HDRider570 at att.net  Wed Dec  2 06:17:44 2020
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 05:17:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] 3-Rail Transmission rebuild
References: <255c8e47-c6db-3fd5-9660-1252b808da67.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <255c8e47-c6db-3fd5-9660-1252b808da67@att.net>

I recently rebuilt the transmission in my Sports Six and made video's of 
the effort.? They are on YouTube at

https://youtu.be/WhSwCIAi7_0
https://youtu.be/_aDt-Gx9bbY

If anyone is interested.

It is a transmission from A Mark III GT6 but it is similar to all 3-rail 
transmissions used in Spitfires, Heralds, GT6's, Vitesses., and Sports 
Sixes.

Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA


From john-marie at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec  2 18:01:42 2020
From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (John Deluca)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 19:01:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR2 Soft Top Installation
References: <1F32BEB3-5FF3-4E66-A6F0-105203C6CD87.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1F32BEB3-5FF3-4E66-A6F0-105203C6CD87@sbcglobal.net>

Listers,
I am trying to install a new Robbins top on my TR2.  My problem seems to be lining up the bows with the seams on the top.  In order to do that, the base of the front bow does not rest against the middle rib ( as I?ve seen in other installations) and the front rib is too low relative to the top of the windscreen if it does.  I can use the webbing to hold the front bow in place lined up with the forward seam and at about 4 inches above the windscreen.  Is this the correct solution?
John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 11:39:39 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 10:39:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>

What is the best way to drill a perpendicular hole for an insert?
I'm using a 7/16-20 time sert. I need to drill a perpendicular hole in the
captive nut. The dril I need to use is 29/64. Should I  start with
drilling  smaller diameter holes and then end up with the 29/26?
Im thinking of drilling a perpendicular hole in a piece of wood in my drill
press and then using that as a guide.
Any recommendations please. The last time I used an insert, the hole wasn't
perpendicular.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Thu Dec  3 11:54:28 2020
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 10:54:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <99E69F3C-4370-43FA-A982-F413DE5255BA@mac.com>


HI Sujit,

When I did this on the block of my TR8 engine, I got a piece of 1/2? plate aluminum and drilled a hole the right size with my drill press.  The used the plate as a guide.  That, with some carefully drilling seemed to be enough.

-Darrell



> On Dec 3, 2020, at 10:39 AM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> What is the best way to drill a perpendicular hole for an insert?
> I'm using a 7/16-20 time sert. I need to drill a perpendicular hole in the captive nut. The dril I need to use is 29/64. Should I  start with drilling  smaller diameter holes and then end up with the 29/26?  
> Im thinking of drilling a perpendicular hole in a piece of wood in my drill press and then using that as a guide.
> Any recommendations please. The last time I used an insert, the hole wasn't perpendicular. 
> 
> Sujit
> 
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ <https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/>
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Thu Dec  3 12:52:34 2020
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 19:52:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB09203BC6095490EDF6C01EC8FAF20@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

If the wood was very hard you could make a drill block. Or use a piece of thick hard plastic, such as a section of Corian countertop. I wouldn?t use e.g. a piece of soft pine, the bit could wobble and cut into the sides of the hole, enlarging it.

I?ll just toss out that you could buy a new tool also (something that often tempts me) Big Gator Tools V-Drill Guide, Standard Sizes 3/8" to 1/2" - Power Drill Accessories - Amazon.com<https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1312-DrillBlock-Handheld-Drill/dp/B00F1ZJFZK>  or Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck - - Amazon.com<https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/> these are more for the woodworking community but may serve here.

Cheers,

Cliff

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Sujit Roy<mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2020 11:46 AM
To: Triumphs<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert

What is the best way to drill a perpendicular hole for an insert?
I'm using a 7/16-20 time sert. I need to drill a perpendicular hole in the captive nut. The dril I need to use is 29/64. Should I  start with drilling  smaller diameter holes and then end up with the 29/26?
Im thinking of drilling a perpendicular hole in a piece of wood in my drill press and then using that as a guide.
Any recommendations please. The last time I used an insert, the hole wasn't perpendicular.

Sujit

--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Dec  3 14:18:52 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 16:18:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
Message-ID: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>

We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,? is 
a current cop.

Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.

I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.

Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
meaning.

Interesting show.

Bob


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec  3 14:21:17 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 21:21:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFDRzGd0J=iPVR6jz3JP8DbC8e0_DT-=KYbZrigN+Jyqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <666288065.2683115.1607030477502@mail.yahoo.com>

 A drill guide as you describe is a good idea.? I always use a guide like that whenever I use a tap.? If you get a tap started crooked you will never get it straightened out.? I like to use a solid block of aluminum but I have also used square tubing.? Same principal applies when hand drilling.

Drilling a pilot hole is easier to get it centered.? Once the pilot hole is there the other drill bits will self-center.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Dec 3, 2020 12:39 pm
Subject: [TR] recommendations for using an insert

What is the best way to drill a perpendicular?hole for an insert?I'm using a 7/16-20 time sert. I need to drill a perpendicular hole in the captive nut. The dril I need to use is 29/64. Should?I? start with drilling??smaller?diameter holes and then end up with the 29/26???Im thinking?of drilling a perpendicular hole in a piece of wood in my drill press and then using that as a guide.Any recommendations please. The last time I used an insert, the hole wasn't perpendicular.?
Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 14:38:16 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 21:38:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
References: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>

 laughinglater they replace one of the guys with a scott.you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up.
Frank




    On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:  
 
 We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,? is 
a current cop.

Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.

I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.

Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
meaning.

Interesting show.

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Dec  3 15:06:00 2020
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 16:06:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
 <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d25f9045-8cdc-0200-01bf-313450c6823a@rmi.net>

We have been watching the show as well.? We have not gotten to the cast 
change yet, but will be there soon...

There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we 
watched the other day.

The Stag is nice.

Roger

On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> laughing
> later they replace one of the guys with a scott.
> you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to 
> look it up.
>
> Frank
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob 
> <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>
> We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3
> retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,? is
> a current cop.
>
> Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had
> to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
>
> I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
>
> Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true
> meaning.
>
> Interesting show.
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
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>
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Thu Dec  3 15:25:22 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 22:25:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <d25f9045-8cdc-0200-01bf-313450c6823a@rmi.net>
References: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
 <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d25f9045-8cdc-0200-01bf-313450c6823a@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>

If the engine rebuild only cost 1500 Pounds, I?d seriously doubt if it represents value for money. A starter price of 3000 pounds plus from a reputable engine rebuilder is much more in the quality ballpark.

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 3 Dec 2020, at 22:06, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:
> 
> We have been watching the show as well.  We have not gotten to the cast change yet, but will be there soon...
> 
> There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we watched the other day.
> 
> The Stag is nice.
> 
> Roger
> 
>> On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>> laughing
>> later they replace one of the guys with a scott.
>> you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up.
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
>> retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,  is 
>> a current cop.
>> 
>> Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
>> to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
>> 
>> I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
>> 
>> Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
>> meaning.
>> 
>> Interesting show.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 15:48:21 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 22:48:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
 <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d25f9045-8cdc-0200-01bf-313450c6823a@rmi.net>
 <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <103602136.2697366.1607035701235@mail.yahoo.com>

 remember that show was first shown in the early 2000'scould maybe discount that cost a little for time


    On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 02:31:08 PM PST, John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:  
 
 If the engine rebuild only cost 1500 Pounds, I?d seriously doubt if it represents value for money. A starter price of 3000 pounds plus from a reputable engine rebuilder is much more in the quality ballpark.

Jonmac
Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.
On 3 Dec 2020, at 22:06, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:


 

We have been watching the show as well.? We have not gotten to the cast change yet, but will be there soon...
 
 
There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we watched the other day.
 
 
The Stag is nice.
 
 
Roger
 
 On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
  
 
 laughing later they replace one of the guys with a scott. you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up. 
  Frank 
  
  
  
  
      On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:  
  
   We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
  retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,? is 
  a current cop.
  
  Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
  to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
  
  I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
  
  Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
  meaning.
  
  Interesting show.
  
  Bob
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
  
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From glewis999 at aol.com  Thu Dec  3 16:13:02 2020
From: glewis999 at aol.com (glewis999 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 23:13:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
References: <1340152238.4211295.1607037182546.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1340152238.4211295.1607037182546@mail.yahoo.com>

The Stag gets torched later in the series which is quite a few years old which may account for the perceived low engine rebuild cost.The comment about not understanding what the Scottish actor says equally applies to many USA expressions(slang).

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On?Thursday, 3 December 2020,?John Macartney?<John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>?wrote:

If the engine rebuild only cost 1500 Pounds, I?d seriously doubt if it represents value for money. A starter price of 3000 pounds plus from a reputable engine rebuilder is much more in the quality ballpark.

Jonmac
Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.
On 3 Dec 2020, at 22:06, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:


 

We have been watching the show as well.? We have not gotten to the cast change yet, but will be there soon...
 
 
There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we watched the other day.
 
 
The Stag is nice.
 
 
Roger
 
 On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
  
 
 laughing later they replace one of the guys with a scott. you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up. 
  Frank 
  
  
  
  
      On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:  
  
   We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
  retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,? is 
  a current cop.
  
  Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
  to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
  
  I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
  
  Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
  meaning.
  
  Interesting show.
  
  Bob
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
  
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Dec  3 16:53:32 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 17:53:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <B5165720-F26D-4CB5-89D5-F5D4E592FEE5@yahoo.com>

Love your tag line John!

Have watched the whole New Tricks series, great looking Stag that Gerry drives.  Be sure to catch the final season. 
B



On Dec 3, 2020, at 4:30 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:

?If the engine rebuild only cost 1500 Pounds, I?d seriously doubt if it represents value for money. A starter price of 3000 pounds plus from a reputable engine rebuilder is much more in the quality ballpark.

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

On 3 Dec 2020, at 22:06, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:

> We have been watching the show as well.  We have not gotten to the cast change yet, but will be there soon...
> 
> There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we watched the other day.
> 
> The Stag is nice.
> 
> Roger
> 
> On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>> laughing
>> later they replace one of the guys with a scott.
>> you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up.
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
>> retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,  is 
>> a current cop.
>> 
>> Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
>> to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
>> 
>> I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
>> 
>> Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
>> meaning.
>> 
>> Interesting show.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> 
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> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Dec  4 13:20:33 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 13:20:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] BBC Show New Tricks
In-Reply-To: <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <9877a9e1-a6bf-ffef-7602-bdb8383dad45@adelphia.net>
 <42727182.2684467.1607031496376@mail.yahoo.com>
 <d25f9045-8cdc-0200-01bf-313450c6823a@rmi.net>
 <7334FD59-6A5A-4E03-A675-9F480FBC0BDE@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <0A17EF36-84A8-4E3D-B794-9DD18689AB5A@comcast.net>

Speaking of Stags a very nice blue one appears in a show called Modern Love as a vintage Triumph driven by Minnie Driver, the actor (PC correct) that she?s trying to sell. 

I am easily amused it appears because a ?Mini Driver? driving a TR gave me a chuckle. 

Bud

> On Dec 3, 2020, at 3:25 PM, John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> If the engine rebuild only cost 1500 Pounds, I?d seriously doubt if it represents value for money. A starter price of 3000 pounds plus from a reputable engine rebuilder is much more in the quality ballpark.
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.
> 
> On 3 Dec 2020, at 22:06, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net <mailto:elliottr at rmi.net>> wrote:
> 
>> We have been watching the show as well.  We have not gotten to the cast change yet, but will be there soon...
>> There was a Spitfire on a pile of cars at a junk yard in the episode we watched the other day.
>> The Stag is nice.
>> Roger
>> On 12/3/2020 3:38 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>>> laughing
>>> later they replace one of the guys with a scott.
>>> you will first need to understand what he is saying to then be able to look it up.
>>> 
>>> Frank
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Thursday, December 3, 2020, 01:19:31 PM PST, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> <mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> We have been watching the BBC show New Tricks for awhile. It features 3 
>>> retired cops trying to solve cold cases. The forth member, the boss,  is 
>>> a current cop.
>>> 
>>> Anyway one of the guys drives a Triumph Stag. Beautiful car. He just had 
>>> to have the engine rebuilt. Cost him 1500 quid. I guess that is pounds.
>>> 
>>> I know the Stag V8 had its problems but the car is beautiful.
>>> 
>>> Lots of colorful English slang that we have to lookup to find the true 
>>> meaning.
>>> 
>>> Interesting show.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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From nogera at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 14:13:26 2020
From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 21:13:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)
Message-ID: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Catologs show that thrust washers are available in Standard and .005 oversized.
Since the washers act in both directions, front to back back to front, does a .005 set reduce total clearance .010?
With standard size I currently have a bit more than .011 play. Will using a set of .005 washers, will the play be reduced to .006 or .001?
Thank you 


Bob Nogueira 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Dec  4 14:56:12 2020
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 16:56:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <7A57E4A1-CCE1-4F2B-AE15-889C4377CA9A@fuse.net>

Hi Bob,
Using two .005? oversized thrust washers in your situation will result in .001? clearance. Use one standard and one .005 and that would get you down to .006. I think that is closer to the maximum tolerance though. It will be interesting to see what others think l
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 4, 2020, at 4:24 PM, Bob Nogueira <nogera at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Catologs show that thrust washers are available in Standard and .005 oversized.
> Since the washers act in both directions, front to back back to front, does a .005 set reduce total clearance .010?
> With standard size I currently have a bit more than .011 play. Will using a set of .005 washers, will the play be reduced to .006 or .001?
> Thank you 
> 
> 
> Bob Nogueira 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net


From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Dec  4 15:08:27 2020
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 16:08:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4350c4e8-3716-2c1f-1cdb-50330bc80a66@tonydrews.com>

0.005 thust washers used on both sides will take 0.010 out of the end 
float.? I've used 0.005 on one side and 0.000 on the other side.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 12/4/2020 3:13 PM, Bob Nogueira wrote:
> Catologs show that thrust washers are available in Standard and .005 oversized.
> Since the washers act in both directions, front to back back to front, does a .005 set reduce total clearance .010?
> With standard size I currently have a bit more than .011 play. Will using a set of .005 washers, will the play be reduced to .006 or .001?
> Thank you
>
>
> Bob Nogueira
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec  4 15:47:27 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 22:47:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN6PR17MB2223CA1BD33B24C74DA1FEE8DFF10@SN6PR17MB2223.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <544363828.2950496.1607122047917@mail.yahoo.com>

 You can mix and match.? I put in a STD and a .005 over to get my end float down to were I wanted it.
BTW I have a spare STD and .005 thrust washer somewhere.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Nogueira <nogera at hotmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Dec 4, 2020 3:13 pm
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)

Catologs show that thrust washers are available in Standard and .005 oversized.
Since the washers act in both directions, front to back back to front, does a .005 set reduce total clearance .010?
With standard size I currently have a bit more than .011 play. Will using a set of .005 washers, will the play be reduced to .006 or .001?
Thank you 


Bob Nogueira 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Dec  4 17:01:42 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2020 17:01:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Thrust washers (aka bearing)
In-Reply-To: <7A57E4A1-CCE1-4F2B-AE15-889C4377CA9A@fuse.net>
References: <7A57E4A1-CCE1-4F2B-AE15-889C4377CA9A@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <D8B89700-B65F-4732-A029-764CB2808221@comcast.net>

I understood the Spitfire?s TW spec to be 0.006-0.014. At least for my 69.
Bud

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 4, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Bob,
> Using two .005? oversized thrust washers in your situation will result in .001? clearance. Use one standard and one .005 and that would get you down to .006. I think that is closer to the maximum tolerance though. It will be interesting to see what others think l
> Dave Connitt 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 4, 2020, at 4:24 PM, Bob Nogueira <nogera at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Catologs show that thrust washers are available in Standard and .005 oversized.
>> Since the washers act in both directions, front to back back to front, does a .005 set reduce total clearance .010?
>> With standard size I currently have a bit more than .011 play. Will using a set of .005 washers, will the play be reduced to .006 or .001?
>> Thank you 
>> 
>> 
>> Bob Nogueira 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net


From will.daehler at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 09:34:53 2020
From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 10:34:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with
 telescopic rear shock conversions
Message-ID: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the
Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could
have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic
that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and
proprietary set ups.

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4  

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 11:01:58 2020
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:01:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR19MB313027A3BF316440ACE353D5B9CF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Will-

Moss-Europe still shows the kit for the TR2-4 live axle cars.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.html

It seems a bit involved with brackets needed to be welded to the differential axle tubes.


A couple of thoughts on the rattle - I'd check the shock links very carefully as one step.  The rubber inside the link can perish so you can get a rattle even though the link looks ok.  The number one problem I had was the lever shock mounts would come loose and the shock would move a bit creating a noise.  Those bolts are hard to access, some use a socket headed bolt to get better torque on them.

If you are convinced its the shocks, you could test the theory by removing them and driving around for a while - the car will bounce more but if it still rattles it means the shocks weren't the problem.  I had a rattle from the muffler hitting the frame which might be a possibility.

Cheers
Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions


When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.



Will Daehler

63 TR4
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec  6 11:50:17 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 10:50:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>

Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may 
or may not be relevant to your situation.

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 
and I assume the 4A.? The one with three triangular brackets that go 
through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket 
that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate 
bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt 
with a heavy duty rebuild.? If I was starting over, that is probably 
what I would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see 
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe 
shock version for the 4A is available.? They have an article at 
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/? It looks like a 
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.? Read the 
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a 
frame attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this 
design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the 
frame, including mine.? See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of 
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.? If you have 
this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.? If 
you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm 
through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of 
the shock mount move front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single 
plate design available from some vendors.? I extended the top mount for 
the shock back about two inches and added two braces.? One is a length 
of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of 
the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.? The other 
is the more important addition and goes from the top of the shock 
bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.? This one stops 
any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.? Unfortunately the car 
isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.? The 5-6025 kit is the 
single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket 
from the top of the shock mount to the frame.


    Tube Shock Conversion Notes

Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:

 > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or 
experience with
 > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #? 5-6025. It is 
listed on
 > page 11 in the summer catalog.......

I put similar brackets on my car.? They are the easiest design to fit, 
taking about 30 minutes to install.? I purchased my brackets from 
someone who made them for his car for $40.? I bought the shocks from Pep 
Boys for $12.95 each.? The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the 
$189 price tag.? My driving can often be aggressive, especially at 
autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first 
overall at Triumphest in 1998).? The cheap shock seem to work fine for 
me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.? The PO put 
Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because 
my lever shocks were dead.? I've heard lots of good things about the 
heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.? Doing it again, I'd give this 
serious thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel 
is the tube shock.? I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for 
free replacement).? I think the other one may also need replacement, as 
there's oil on the tube.? This tension is transferred through the shock 
to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that 
holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.? I mention this because I 
just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential 
mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock 
mount. The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for 
the DPO.? I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think 
it aggravated the problem.? (Any comments on this from others?)

- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the 
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of 
the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.? 
Your shocks should be double nutted.? I used a nylocs because I had a 
box of them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.? I have a little bit on the 
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.? I can't see any 
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.? I run 
205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the 
picture.? Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.? 
It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.? It has three triangular brackets 
per side. One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by 
the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.? The first step in 
the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.? The dampening 
forces need to go to the frame.

Brian




On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
>
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right 
> rear area of my car.? I have poked around by the axle, and thought I 
> have fixed the problem a couple of times.? I have replaced the springs 
> and refilled the Armstrong shocks.? I have poked around. While looking 
> through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong 
> shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. 
> But the kits are NLS.? No Longer Supplied.? I was wondering why the 
> kits ?were discontinued. It could have been that they caused damage to 
> the frame, or just didn?t work.? I was hoping somebody had any 
> first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could 
> discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary 
> set ups.
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net

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From pryner at outlook.com  Sun Dec  6 12:08:15 2020
From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 19:08:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR19MB313027A3BF316440ACE353D5B9CF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
 <DM6PR19MB313027A3BF316440ACE353D5B9CF0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BN7PR04MB4212D6C1D8BC712F37B2A401DECF0@BN7PR04MB4212.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Agree with Randy,
Check the shock mounts.  Had the same problem on my TR3.  Would get noise on bumps and couldn't fine the problem  Finally got loose enough that I could move the shock.  Mount holes were rounded out by then.  ISTR that there are no lock washers on the mount bolts.
Pete

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 1:02 PM
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions

Hi Will-

Moss-Europe still shows the kit for the TR2-4 live axle cars.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.html

It seems a bit involved with brackets needed to be welded to the differential axle tubes.


A couple of thoughts on the rattle - I'd check the shock links very carefully as one step.  The rubber inside the link can perish so you can get a rattle even though the link looks ok.  The number one problem I had was the lever shock mounts would come loose and the shock would move a bit creating a noise.  Those bolts are hard to access, some use a socket headed bolt to get better torque on them.

If you are convinced its the shocks, you could test the theory by removing them and driving around for a while - the car will bounce more but if it still rattles it means the shocks weren't the problem.  I had a rattle from the muffler hitting the frame which might be a possibility.

Cheers
Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com<mailto:will.daehler at gmail.com>>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions


When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.



Will Daehler

63 TR4
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 13:00:09 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:00:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
 <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <01e901d6cc0a$6733de00$359b9a00$@gmail.com>

I've done the tube shock and won't do again for the reasons in the pictures.
I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are
great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they
are really hard.  Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am
switching out to a stock rebuild.  Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get
uprated if you are racing.  

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

61 3A

62 4

67 4A

75 6

81 8 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

 

Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or
may not be relevant to your situation.  

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I
assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the
body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the
body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the
lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt
with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I
would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock
version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame
attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design
leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame,
including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other
people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this
design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have
the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full
range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move
front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single
plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the
shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1"
angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the
bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the
more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward
to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear
motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible
right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the
top of the shock mount to the frame.





Tube Shock Conversion Notes


Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion: 

> Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience
with
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed
on
> page 11 in the summer catalog.......

I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit,
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone
who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
$12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price
tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events
(2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in
1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may
just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my
lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty
rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious
thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is
the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free
replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's
oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the
shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just
discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car
had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't
know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the
problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)

- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the
shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your
shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of
them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65
tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's
Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per
side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the
instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces
need to go to the frame.

Brian





On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the
Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could
have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic
that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and
proprietary set ups.

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4  





** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
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From ryel at mac.com  Sun Dec  6 13:12:42 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 12:12:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <01e901d6cc0a$6733de00$359b9a00$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
 <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
 <01e901d6cc0a$6733de00$359b9a00$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0FCAEFB-47A4-46D1-B188-8D5632133A97@mac.com>

For my 1960 TR3A I upgraded my stock lever shocks to the adjustable lever shocks from World Wide Auto Parts, and I love them.  There are instructions where to set it for stock ride, so you have the option to make them softer or stiffer than stock.  I?m running mine a bit stiffer, along with a 7/8? front sway bar and 205/60R15 Goodrich tires on 6 1/2? Panasport wheels and the handling is excellent.

Rye Livingston
Activities Chairman
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
1960 Triumph TR3A
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I?ve done the tube shock and won?t do again for the reasons in the pictures.  I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they are really hard.  Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock rebuild.  Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are racing.  
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 3A
> 62 4
> 67 4A
> 75 6
> 81 8 
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
> Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
> To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com <mailto:will.daehler at gmail.com>>; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
>  
> Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to your situation.  
> 
> There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.
> 
> Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I would do.
> 
> A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits <https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits> - the Monroe shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/ <http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/>  It looks like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the instructions from their website.
> 
> I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame attachments.
> 
> I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move front to rear.
> 
> After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.
> 
> Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the top of the shock mount to the frame.
> 
> 
> Tube Shock Conversion Notes
> 
> Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:
> > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with
> > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed on
> > page 11 in the summer catalog.......
> I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.
> 
> Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious thought.
> 
> Disadvantages of this design:
> - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)
> 
> - You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.
> 
> Safety considerations:
> - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.
> 
> - Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.
> 
> If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.  Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.
> 
> The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.
> 
> I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces need to go to the frame.
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
>> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.
>>  
>> Will Daehler
>> 63 TR4  
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>  
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>  
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com>
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From john at linneyweb.com  Sun Dec  6 14:32:49 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 13:32:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3BFED267-7937-4416-BE71-EB864E0078CC@linneyweb.com>

That clunk you are getting sounds like mine, due to a broken rear link. The attachment bolt becomes separated from the arm / metalastic. Simple fix. https://mossmotors.com/link-shock-absorber-5?assoc=39816


Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 8:38 AM, Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.
>  
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 16:46:17 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:46:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56911DCC-030F-46A0-B207-106AB374E52F@gmail.com>

Definitely replace the shock to frame bolts with Allen/socket head bolts. If they have been loose the holes will be elongated. 

Allen 
?63 TR4 since ?67

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.
>  
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4  
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Dec  6 17:01:08 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:01:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <01e901d6cc0a$6733de00$359b9a00$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
 <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
 <01e901d6cc0a$6733de00$359b9a00$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004801d6cc2c$118dc7a0$34a956e0$@ranteer.com>

I'm going to totally disagree.  I have the uprated shocks from Worldwide in
2 cars and totally recommend it.  I do drive hard so maybe I'm a bit biased.
The rough ride will come more from the bushings than the uprated shocks.
IMHO the standard valving is too soft.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 2:00 PM
To: 'Brian Kemp' <bk13 at earthlink.net>; 'Will Daehler'
<will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

 

I've done the tube shock and won't do again for the reasons in the pictures.
I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are
great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they
are really hard.  Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am
switching out to a stock rebuild.  Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get
uprated if you are racing.  

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

61 3A

62 4

67 4A

75 6

81 8 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com <mailto:will.daehler at gmail.com> >;
triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

 

Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or
may not be relevant to your situation.  

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I
assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the
body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the
body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the
lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt
with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I
would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock
version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame
attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design
leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame,
including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other
people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this
design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have
the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full
range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move
front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single
plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the
shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1"
angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the
bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the
more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward
to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear
motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible
right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the
top of the shock mount to the frame.




Tube Shock Conversion Notes


Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion: 

> Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience
with
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed
on
> page 11 in the summer catalog.......

I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit,
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone
who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
$12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price
tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events
(2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in
1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may
just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my
lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty
rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious
thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is
the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free
replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's
oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the
shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just
discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car
had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't
know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the
problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)

- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the
shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your
shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of
them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65
tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's
Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per
side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the
instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces
need to go to the frame.

Brian

 

On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the
Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could
have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic
that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and
proprietary set ups.

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4  

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net

 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Dec  6 17:03:02 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:03:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
 <91aa4f67-ab2c-663c-fbc2-2bd2bc3c1bcd@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <004d01d6cc2c$55ab10f0$010132d0$@ranteer.com>

DO NOT DO THE TUBE SHOCK CONVERSION

 

Using a stiffer lever shock will get you the same place without the myriad
problems of a tube shock conversion.

 

 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:50 PM
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

 

Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or
may not be relevant to your situation.  

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I
assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the
body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the
body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the
lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt
with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I
would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock
version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame
attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design
leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame,
including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other
people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this
design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have
the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full
range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move
front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single
plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the
shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1"
angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the
bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the
more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward
to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear
motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible
right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the
top of the shock mount to the frame.





Tube Shock Conversion Notes


Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion: 

> Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience
with
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed
on
> page 11 in the summer catalog.......

I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit,
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone
who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
$12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price
tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events
(2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in
1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may
just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my
lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty
rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious
thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is
the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free
replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's
oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the
shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just
discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car
had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't
know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the
problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)

- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the
shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your
shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of
them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65
tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's
Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per
side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the
instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces
need to go to the frame.

Brian





On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the
Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could
have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic
that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and
proprietary set ups.

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4  





** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Dec  6 17:21:02 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 19:21:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <004801d6cc2c$118dc7a0$34a956e0$@ranteer.com>
References: <004801d6cc2c$118dc7a0$34a956e0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <51CCB3AE-5667-43F1-A71F-39B4BD94E637@gmail.com>

Dave:
I do have poly bushings and that could add to it.  
Jim 

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 7:12 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I?m going to totally disagree.  I have the uprated shocks from Worldwide in 2 cars and totally recommend it.  I do drive hard so maybe I?m a bit biased.  The rough ride will come more from the bushings than the uprated shocks.  IMHO the standard valving is too soft.
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 2:00 PM
> To: 'Brian Kemp' <bk13 at earthlink.net>; 'Will Daehler' <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
>  
> I?ve done the tube shock and won?t do again for the reasons in the pictures.  I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they are really hard.  Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock rebuild.  Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are racing. 
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 3A
> 62 4
> 67 4A
> 75 6
> 81 8
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
> Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
> To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
>  
> Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to your situation.  
> 
> There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.
> 
> Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I would do.
> 
> A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the instructions from their website.
> 
> I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame attachments.
> 
> I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move front to rear.
> 
> After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.
> 
> Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the top of the shock mount to the frame.
> 
> 
> Tube Shock Conversion Notes
> 
> Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:
> > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with
> > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed on
> > page 11 in the summer catalog.......
> 
> I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.
> 
> Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious thought.
> 
> Disadvantages of this design:
> - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)
> 
> - You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.
> 
> Safety considerations:
> - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.
> 
> - Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.
> 
> If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.  Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.
> 
> The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.
> 
> I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces need to go to the frame.
> 
> Brian
> 
>  
> 
> On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.
>  
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4  
>  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>  
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>  
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Dec  6 17:28:21 2020
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 19:28:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <004d01d6cc2c$55ab10f0$010132d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <004d01d6cc2c$55ab10f0$010132d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <8B934BBB-2377-4B03-90AC-8406104E37EA@fuse.net>

That happened to my TR4A IRS twice and both times the passenger side shock absorber mounting bolts backed out. Red Locktite solved the problem.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 7:13 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> DO NOT DO THE TUBE SHOCK CONVERSION
>  
> Using a stiffer lever shock will get you the same place without the myriad problems of a tube shock conversion.
>  
>  
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
> Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:50 PM
> To: Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
>  
> Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to your situation.  
> 
> There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.
> 
> Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I would do.
> 
> A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the instructions from their website.
> 
> I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame attachments.
> 
> I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move front to rear.
> 
> After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.
> 
> Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the top of the shock mount to the frame.
> 
> 
> Tube Shock Conversion Notes
> 
> Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:
> > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with
> > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed on
> > page 11 in the summer catalog.......
> 
> I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.
> 
> Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious thought.
> 
> Disadvantages of this design:
> - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)
> 
> - You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.
> 
> Safety considerations:
> - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.
> 
> - Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.
> 
> If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.  Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.
> 
> The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.
> 
> I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces need to go to the frame.
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.
>  
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4  
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>  
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>  
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Sun Dec  6 21:57:21 2020
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (Bill Brewer)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 20:57:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 in Movie
References: <015401d6cc55$730f3030$592d9090$.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <015401d6cc55$730f3030$592d9090$@yahoo.com>

     I was watching a 1957 movie (in French with subtitles.) called
"Elevator to the Gallows". There is a chase scene through the French
countryside where a Mercedes 300SL overtakes a TR3. Of course I leapt out of
my chair and pointed and shouted at the TV in case my wife missed it. She
just rolled her eyes, of course. Screen photo attached. Not the greatest
photo, but you get the idea.

     The movie was typical French. Enjoyable movie if you like film noire.

 

     Bill Brewer

     Morro Bay, CA

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Dec  7 05:44:19 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 05:44:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
 with telescopic rear shock conversions
In-Reply-To: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
References: <000001d6cbed$ba5e53c0$2f1afb40$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE8Gs032s2+NmOe6+DeH1_GgiMBd_e5zpe7cmVf+gucOg@mail.gmail.com>

I also use socket head cap screws in place of the original shock mounting
bolts.  Much easier to get really tight.  I also prefer Stover nuts rather
than Nylocs for that application.

Geo

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 9:38 AM Will Daehler <will.daehler at gmail.com> wrote:

> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
> area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
> the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled
> the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
> catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
> brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
> Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It
> could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn?t work.
> I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this
> topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom
> and proprietary set ups.
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From will.daehler at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 14:54:06 2020
From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 15:54:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Armstrong Shocks, Rattle and Serendipity THANKYOU LETTER
Message-ID: <000301d6cdac$a713a5c0$f53af140$@gmail.com>

First off, Thank you to those who took the time to post suggestions about
how to best solve my rattling Triumph rear suspension problem.  The
gentlemen include Geo Hahn, Allen Hess, John Linney, George Haynes, Rye
Livingston, Jim Henningsen, Brian Kemp, Randy DeRuiter, Dave Connitt, Brian
at Ranteer, and Peter Ryner. THANK YOU.

 

I weighed carefully all the information, and pondered all the very thorough
responses.

 

Did I say serendipity ? 

 

I discovered that I lived 25 miles from World Wide Auto, in Madison
Wisconsin!  Who knew, and how could I pass up such a fortunate coincidence?
I met Jane and Steve and bought a beautifully restored pair of Armstrong
shocks. What a crazy small and defined specialty!  When I install them I
will use grade six internal hex socket head cap screws with fresh stover
nuts. I will check my shock links and replace the silent blocks on the leaf
springs. And then onto motoring!

 

Faithfully,

 

Will Daehler

TR4 Powder Blue

 

 

 

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From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Dec  8 17:12:57 2020
From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2020 18:12:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Armstrong Shocks,
 Rattle and Serendipity THANKYOU LETTER
In-Reply-To: <000301d6cdac$a713a5c0$f53af140$@gmail.com>
References: <000301d6cdac$a713a5c0$f53af140$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bc20a9cb12c76c4f9ce525c8c7b8bb70@automate-it.com>

This is why I love this list (and it's predecessors, back to my 
discovery of british-cars at autox.team.net in 1991!)
  -Lee

On 2020-12-08 15:54, Will Daehler wrote:
> First off, Thank you to those who took the time to post suggestions
> about how to best solve my rattling Triumph rear suspension problem.
> The gentlemen include Geo Hahn, Allen Hess, John Linney, George
> Haynes, Rye Livingston, Jim Henningsen, Brian Kemp, Randy DeRuiter,
> Dave Connitt, Brian at Ranteer, and Peter Ryner. THANK YOU.
> 
> I weighed carefully all the information, and pondered all the very
> thorough responses.
> 
> Did I say serendipity ?
> 
>  I discovered that I lived 25 miles from World Wide Auto, in Madison
> Wisconsin!  Who knew, and how could I pass up such a fortunate
> coincidence?  I met Jane and Steve and bought a beautifully restored
> pair of Armstrong shocks. What a crazy small and defined specialty!
> When I install them I will use grade six internal hex socket head cap
> screws with fresh stover nuts. I will check my shock links and replace
> the silent blocks on the leaf springs. And then onto motoring!
> 
> Faithfully,
> 
> Will Daehler
> 
> TR4 Powder Blue

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Dec 10 17:25:10 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 16:25:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] How soon to retorque after installign a new head
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH=cJnt1jxv1mahezYS42T55GTBUt=xzCYmG3Y1q5yN9Q@mail.gmail.com>

I'm testing my car and have only driven 20 miles. I plan to carry on
testing. I have driven it at speed. When should I re torque the heads?  Can
I hold of retorquing while testing? When is a good time to re torque?

Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From sackirby at chinaautogroup.com  Thu Dec 10 17:33:25 2020
From: sackirby at chinaautogroup.com (Steve Kirby)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 00:33:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] How soon to retorque after installing a new head
Message-ID: <941c8631262c45688300f64316a0f804@chinaautogroup.com>

Sujit,

Retorque now.  105 ft lbs.  Yes you have to take off the rocker assembly off and then reset the valve clearances.

If all nuts are still at 105 (unlikely), you are done.  If you have to retorque some nuts, then check again at 500 miles.

Steve Kirby
President
China Auto Group
22831 Avenida Empresa
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
Direct:  (949) 261-8208
Fax:  (949) 767-5949
Cell:  (949) 903-0957
Skype: steve.kirby29
www.chinaautogroup.com

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2020 4:25 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] How soon to retorque after installign a new head

I'm testing my car and have only driven 20 miles. I plan to carry on testing. I have driven it at speed. When should I re torque the heads?  Can I hold of retorquing while testing? When is a good time to re torque?

Sujit


--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/






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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 10 18:34:13 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 19:34:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] How soon to retorque after installign a new head
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH=cJnt1jxv1mahezYS42T55GTBUt=xzCYmG3Y1q5yN9Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH=cJnt1jxv1mahezYS42T55GTBUt=xzCYmG3Y1q5yN9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <07290EB6-C709-45F3-A082-849E5D8E3DCB@yahoo.com>

Sujit, you will probably get different answers. The important thing is to re-torque pretty early.  I try to run through about three heat cycles first, some may say after 100 miles.  Be sure to re-adjust your valves too. 

Bill

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 10, 2020, at 6:25 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I'm testing my car and have only driven 20 miles. I plan to carry on testing. I have driven it at speed. When should I re torque the heads?  Can I hold of retorquing while testing? When is a good time to re torque?

Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 10:51:46 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 09:51:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] How soon to retorque after installing a new head
In-Reply-To: <941c8631262c45688300f64316a0f804@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <941c8631262c45688300f64316a0f804@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHOVN3NiBs7V_2NGyJMhMhd4_J56eVKAkGNHuq1Rnnz2g@mail.gmail.com>

It's  Stag and no need to take the cover off. teh spec says 55 lbs.
Sujit

On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 4:33 PM Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
wrote:

> Sujit,
>
>
>
> Retorque now.  105 ft lbs.  Yes you have to take off the rocker assembly
> off and then reset the valve clearances.
>
>
>
> If all nuts are still at 105 (unlikely), you are done.  If you have to
> retorque some nuts, then check again at 500 miles.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Sujit
> Roy
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 10, 2020 4:25 PM
> *To:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] How soon to retorque after installign a new head
>
>
>
> I'm testing my car and have only driven 20 miles. I plan to carry on
> testing. I have driven it at speed. When should I re torque the heads?  Can
> I hold of retorquing while testing? When is a good time to re torque?
>
>
>
> Sujit
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 12 16:56:57 2020
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (Bill Brewer)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 15:56:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] WTB TR3 Front Right Fender
References: <001801d6d0e2$7a7850e0$6f68f2a0$.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001801d6d0e2$7a7850e0$6f68f2a0$@yahoo.com>

     I was in a minor fender bender in my 1960 TR3. Their insurance is going
to pay for the repairs. I need a new or really straight right front fender.
The body shop says get another fender and the original has a lot of bondo on
it. Does anyone on the list have a new or really straight front right
fender?

     Just before the accident TRF had a sale and sold a right front fender.
It was gone by the time I needed it. If anyone bought that and isn't using
it, I could use it.

     TIA,

 

     -Bil Brewer

     Morro Bay, California

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 13 15:15:43 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 15:15:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
Message-ID: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>

Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 13 15:30:34 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 22:30:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <719928980.145650.1607898634204@mail.yahoo.com>

 It's been said that if you poke a long screwdriver through the grommet for the harness that passes through the firewall between the heater and the glove box (LHD cars) you can engage the release lever and open the bonnet.? Be careful not to engage the battery hot cable.? 

I have not tried this so I can't vouch as to how well this works.? But I did a quick inspection of my car and it is feasible.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 4:15 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release

Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


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From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 13 15:34:23 2020
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 22:34:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1446451252.277798.1607898863297@mail.yahoo.com>

 If the cable is not broken, one thing I try and do is push down on the hood right in front of the air vent this sometimes relives the pressure and make it easy to pull the cable. Once you do get it open order the Moss emergency open kit, it is very well engineered.? ?Good luck
    On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 05:16:31 PM EST, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
 Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com
  
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 13 15:39:55 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 15:39:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <1446451252.277798.1607898863297@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <1446451252.277798.1607898863297@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7f91b70b-61bc-348d-4b50-259194a29b98@porterscustom.com>

The T handle is just dangling with lots of slack but cable won't move.. 
Pushing over the release is a no go.. dp

On 12/13/2020 3:34 PM, robert rudolphi wrote:
> If the cable is not broken, one thing I try and do is push down on the 
> hood right in front of the air vent this sometimes relives the 
> pressure and make it easy to pull the cable. Once you do get it open 
> order the Moss emergency open kit, it is very well engineered.? ?Good luck
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 05:16:31 PM EST, David P 
> <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>
>
> Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the
> bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive 
> <http://www.team.net/archive>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec 13 15:40:25 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 17:40:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <719928980.145650.1607898634204@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <719928980.145650.1607898634204@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0LcRm4-1kMR6F1ClS-00jpq3@mrelay.perfora.net>

Here?s one way?. Use a wood dowel to take a jolt from the battery out of play.
Bob

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

From: DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2020 5:30 PM
To: frogeye at porterscustom.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bonnet release

It's been said that if you poke a long screwdriver through the grommet for the harness that passes through the firewall between the heater and the glove box (LHD cars) you can engage the release lever and open the bonnet.? Be careful not to engage the battery hot cable.? 

I have not tried this so I can't vouch as to how well this works.? But I did a quick inspection of my car and it is feasible.

Dave 


-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 4:15 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/



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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 13 15:50:35 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 15:50:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <d11b6a0e-716f-9ee3-e518-f2bd4c08b6b2@porterscustom.com>

A long hooked radiator hose removal tool did the job through the 
firewall grommet.. I can skip the adult beverage now.. Thanks all..

On 12/13/2020 3:15 PM, David P wrote:
> Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
> bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 13 16:17:41 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 23:17:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <d11b6a0e-716f-9ee3-e518-f2bd4c08b6b2@porterscustom.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <d11b6a0e-716f-9ee3-e518-f2bd4c08b6b2@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1668292015.194721.1607901461427@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not even one for celebration?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 4:50 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bonnet release

A long hooked radiator hose removal tool did the job through the 
firewall grommet.. I can skip the adult beverage now.. Thanks all..

On 12/13/2020 3:15 PM, David P wrote:
> Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
> bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 13 16:23:53 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 16:23:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <1668292015.194721.1607901461427@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <d11b6a0e-716f-9ee3-e518-f2bd4c08b6b2@porterscustom.com>
 <1668292015.194721.1607901461427@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7a74b01a-b695-38ed-068f-d067731708c4@porterscustom.com>

Dave..other issues before I get carried away with this car. It does pull 
like a real locomotive though, I'll give it that.

On 12/13/2020 4:17 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> Not even one for celebration?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 4:50 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
>
> A long hooked radiator hose removal tool did the job through the
> firewall grommet.. I can skip the adult beverage now.. Thanks all..
>
> On 12/13/2020 3:15 PM, David P wrote:
> > Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the
> > bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
> >
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive 
> <http://www.team.net/archive>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com>

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 13 16:33:27 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 23:33:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <7a74b01a-b695-38ed-068f-d067731708c4@porterscustom.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <d11b6a0e-716f-9ee3-e518-f2bd4c08b6b2@porterscustom.com>
 <1668292015.194721.1607901461427@mail.yahoo.com>
 <7a74b01a-b695-38ed-068f-d067731708c4@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <744054146.152442.1607902407276@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yup.? Nice, torquey engine it is.? Good luck.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 5:23 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bonnet release

 Dave..other issues before I get carried away with this car. It does pull like a real locomotive though, I'll give it that.
  On 12/13/2020 4:17 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
  
 
  Not even one for celebration?
   
  Dave 
 
   
   
  -----Original Message-----
 From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
 To: triumphs at autox.team.net
 Sent: Sun, Dec 13, 2020 4:50 pm
 Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
 
 A long hooked radiator hose removal tool did the job through the 
 firewall grommet.. I can skip the adult beverage now.. Thanks all..
 
 On 12/13/2020 3:15 PM, David P wrote:
 > Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the 
 > bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
 >
 -- 
 Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
 
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
 
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
     -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ 
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 13 20:27:31 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 19:27:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet release
In-Reply-To: <1446451252.277798.1607898863297@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <0de70722-2ab5-0e86-7a50-ac783ce9e4db@porterscustom.com>
 <1446451252.277798.1607898863297@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c685979f-1a2c-09be-9b49-71b3a4ac6dfd@earthlink.net>

Dave - Glad to see you solved the immediate issue.

For others - I second pushing down on the hood if there is resistance to 
pulling the release.? I also recommend a second cable clamp on the 
bonnet release cable, RFK836 - Trunnion Fitting at 
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/327.php This way, even if the first 
clamp comes loose, there is a second one on the wire to stop it 
slipping.? This same page has RFT132 - Back-up Bonnet Release Kit, 
probably the same thing as Moss.

Brian

On 12/13/2020 2:34 PM, robert rudolphi wrote:
> If the cable is not broken, one thing I try and do is push down on the 
> hood right in front of the air vent this sometimes relives the 
> pressure and make it easy to pull the cable. Once you do get it open 
> order the Moss emergency open kit, it is very well engineered.? ?Good luck
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 05:16:31 PM EST, David P 
> <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>
>
> Dash cable inop.. Damn! Any one with an answer as to how to open the
> bonnet? No, no emergency cable fitted.. DaveP
>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 
> My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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>
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>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Dec 14 11:58:24 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2020 11:58:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Banana Car
Message-ID: <2071B5DC-C1C8-47CC-B683-026E0CAB93F4@comcast.net>

Listerati,

I was in Scottsdale AZ last March right before the pandemic became crazy and went to a local car show. This four seater was there. The owner told me he used to take his kids to school in it and embarrass the hell out of them. It was nicely done for what it?s worth. Parking is a challenge though.

Bud







Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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From thomasb at queensu.ca  Wed Dec 16 09:06:32 2020
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 16:06:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2-3B Control Head Install
Message-ID: <YQXPR0101MB0789347A8D0373AC87AA799BD4C50@YQXPR0101MB0789.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Hi,

Yesterday we attempted to install a new TRF non-adjustable steering wheel control head (vintage 2007) in our TR2 currently undergoing restoration.  I?ve successfully used this product in the past on our 1956 TR3.

Everything went as expected until the final step when the control head was pushed fully home into the original stock steering wheel.  The resulting clearance between hub and wheel is about 3/8 of an inch rather than the 1/8 ? it is supposed to be.  This with the mounting plate of the control head now resting firmly against the steering wheel hub locators (i.e. correctly positioned to tighten the grubs screws).

Adjusting the exposure of the stator tube at the steering box end does not appear to be a solution as it seems it is the steering wheel that needs to move.

I?ve read a couple of threads in the British Car Forum on this topic and one commented ?If the control head is an aftermarket one, make sure that it will fit in the steering wheel base. Sometimes the attachment plate is too large a diameter and wont seat all the way past the set screws.?.  No mention I could find on how to solve this.

Appreciate the steering column has been totally apart and rebuilt.

? and I still have the original 1954 control head which is totally functional and with a good buffing would probably look as good as the new unit.  I didn?t have this with me yesterday or would have tried it for fit.

Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers,

Brian
_____________________________________________________
Brian Thomas                            E-Mail:  Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca<mailto:Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca>
92 Wyona Lane                          Phone:  613-385-1947
Wolfe Island,  Ontario                Toys:  54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,
Canada  K0H 2Y0                                   01 XKR,  75 John Deere 920

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From thomasb at queensu.ca  Wed Dec 16 10:17:54 2020
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 17:17:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2-3B Control Head Install - Update
Message-ID: <YQXPR0101MB0789272BB86323FFC475D9BAD4C50@YQXPR0101MB0789.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Hi again,

I copied my friend Brad on the recent post on this matter and he went out and looked at the situation again ? the car is at his place.  With better light, he was able to see ?The diameter of that plate is too large.  Only by a very tiny amount. You will simply need to hand file those 3 points a bit then it'll push down home.  I used my "good" flashlight I have indoors and could clearly see it.?

So the problem is very likely solved ? thanks for listening ?

Stay well and cheers,

Brian
_____________________________________________________
Brian Thomas                            E-Mail:  Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca<mailto:Brian.Thomas at QueensU.Ca>
92 Wyona Lane                          Phone:  613-385-1947
Wolfe Island,  Ontario                Toys:  54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,
Canada  K0H 2Y0                                   01 XKR,  75 John Deere 920

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From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 12:45:08 2020
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 14:45:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] HVDA Conversion, Issues?
Message-ID: <281B1FD0-B0A5-4379-920C-38B19E9EAD35@mi.rr.com>

Folks
I have one of the older HVDA Toyota 5 speed to Triumph conversions (2006 vintage) that I am just now getting around to completing on my ?55 TR2 Resto Mod and have noticed that the current (Moss) HVDA kits have changed out the McLoud 1400-20 Hydraulic TOB for a Quarter Master unit.  Anyone know why this change was made?  Have there been issues with the McLoud 1400 series TOB?s.  I have the McLoud unit adjusted properly and ready to mate up to the Fidanze alloy flywheel and LUK clutch and pressure plate and the upgraded TR4a motor, but would be interested in hearing from anyone (pro and con) concerning the McLoud units vs Quarter Master TOB?s.

From rod2319 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 13:15:58 2020
From: rod2319 at gmail.com (Rod Trunnell)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 12:15:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] HVDA Conversion, Issues?
In-Reply-To: <281B1FD0-B0A5-4379-920C-38B19E9EAD35@mi.rr.com>
References: <281B1FD0-B0A5-4379-920C-38B19E9EAD35@mi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAEzQcJmWzjbgqWjTyNURg1z2ZfsWtk7BfYhUKL419yqDsrK+zA@mail.gmail.com>

I purchased the HDVA conversion and Herman provided the Quartermaster TOB
at that time. I am not sure when or why he made the change.  I am
completely satisfied with the Quartermaster TOB.

Rod Trunnell
62 TR3B


On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 11:45 AM Dan Cronin <adcronin at mi.rr.com> wrote:

> Folks
> I have one of the older HVDA Toyota 5 speed to Triumph conversions (2006
> vintage) that I am just now getting around to completing on my ?55 TR2
> Resto Mod and have noticed that the current (Moss) HVDA kits have changed
> out the McLoud 1400-20 Hydraulic TOB for a Quarter Master unit.  Anyone
> know why this change was made?  Have there been issues with the McLoud 1400
> series TOB?s.  I have the McLoud unit adjusted properly and ready to mate
> up to the Fidanze alloy flywheel and LUK clutch and pressure plate and the
> upgraded TR4a motor, but would be interested in hearing from anyone (pro
> and con) concerning the McLoud units vs Quarter Master TOB?s.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rod2319 at gmail.com
>
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Dec 16 14:53:02 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 16:53:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] HVDA Conversion, Issues?
In-Reply-To: <CAEzQcJmWzjbgqWjTyNURg1z2ZfsWtk7BfYhUKL419yqDsrK+zA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <281B1FD0-B0A5-4379-920C-38B19E9EAD35@mi.rr.com>
 <CAEzQcJmWzjbgqWjTyNURg1z2ZfsWtk7BfYhUKL419yqDsrK+zA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0LoWaK-1k9CMf1N18-00gVIf@mrelay.perfora.net>

Back in 2008, Herman was experiencing some problems with the McLeod T/O Bearing leaking. My kit had that unit and it failed immediately  ?. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedInstallation.htm ?. Literally installed the tranny per instructions, depressed the clutch and fluid came leaking out. Herman was testing the Quarter Master T/O bearing and, because of my experience with the McLeod, starting using Quarter Master as the new bearing?? as I recall, it was more expensive but of much better quality. 

Maybe Moss went back to McLeod to save money?

Bob

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

From: Rod Trunnell
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 3:16 PM
To: Dan Cronin; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] HVDA Conversion, Issues?

I purchased the HDVA conversion and Herman provided the Quartermaster TOB at that time. I am not sure when or why he made the change.? I am completely satisfied with the Quartermaster TOB.

Rod Trunnell
62 TR3B

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 11:45 AM Dan Cronin <adcronin at mi.rr.com> wrote:
Folks
I have one of the older HVDA Toyota 5 speed to Triumph conversions (2006 vintage) that I am just now getting around to completing on my ?55 TR2 Resto Mod and have noticed that the current (Moss) HVDA kits have changed out the McLoud 1400-20 Hydraulic TOB for a Quarter Master unit.? Anyone know why this change was made?? Have there been issues with the McLoud 1400 series TOB?s.? I have the McLoud unit adjusted properly and ready to mate up to the Fidanze alloy flywheel and LUK clutch and pressure plate and the upgraded TR4a motor, but would be interested in hearing from anyone (pro and con) concerning the McLoud units vs Quarter Master TOB?s.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From dfschiffman at gmail.com  Thu Dec 17 13:22:05 2020
From: dfschiffman at gmail.com (Dan Schiffman)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 12:22:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] HDVA kits
Message-ID: <CAPPCQmLwCFVC6PRCZWZ=GkxENozzXha5-anFQmzshosJoxUxkQ@mail.gmail.com>

12/17/2020

As to the question about throw out bearings, contact Joe Siam at Chequered
Flag Racing in Chatsworth, CA.  My 5speed conversion was one of the first
he installed. He?s done many over the years.  He?s an honest guy and very
skilled at keeping LBC?s on the road.

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/
-- 
*Dan Schiffman*

626-676-8329 cell
dfschiffman at gmail.com email

NOTICE: This message may contain privileged or otherwise confidential
information.
If you are not the intended recipient, please immediately advise the sender
by reply
email and delete the message and any attachments without using, copying or
disclosing
the contents.
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 10:31:21 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 09:31:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Welding help wanted
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFB9hf9Zu05J2AGD7kjji9SYD9640NH2x8WyjjHHkwR0w@mail.gmail.com>

  I've had this MIG for years. never was successful in welding anything.
Now I need to weld part of the soft top and diff. extension. I got it out
yesterday. It's a 220 volt Craftsman unit I am practicing on some thin
metal pipes. All I'm trying to do is put some weld on the pipe. It is on
the lowest voltage setting, but I'm burning holes through the metal. I've
looked at YouTube videos on how to weld, but am not sure how to stop
burning holes. The only other adjustment I have is wire feed speed. Do I
adjust this up or down? Any pointers welcome.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 18 11:02:48 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 18:02:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Welding help wanted
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFB9hf9Zu05J2AGD7kjji9SYD9640NH2x8WyjjHHkwR0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaFB9hf9Zu05J2AGD7kjji9SYD9640NH2x8WyjjHHkwR0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1646340231.1478777.1608314568504@mail.yahoo.com>

 I would check with the local community college or trade school to see if they have a continuing education or night school class on welding.? I've done a very little bit of welding but I've found that it is much easier to weld thicker stuff than thinner stuff.? But I don't know what else to try other than slowing down the wire feed rate.

 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Dec 18, 2020 11:31 am
Subject: [TR] Welding help wanted

? I've had this MIG for years. never was successful in welding anything. Now I need to weld part of the soft top and diff. extension. I got it out yesterday. It's a 220 volt Craftsman unit I am practicing on some thin metal pipes. All I'm trying to do is put some weld on the pipe. It is on the lowest voltage setting, but I'm burning holes through the metal. I've looked at YouTube videos on how to weld, but am not sure how to stop burning holes. The only other adjustment I have is wire feed speed. Do I adjust this up or down? Any pointers welcome.
Sujit??
-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 12:05:54 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 14:05:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <ABCCE1D9-34B0-4418-A469-3F442C8EDE4A@gmail.com>

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.  Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.   

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

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From HDRider570 at att.net  Fri Dec 18 12:20:42 2020
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 11:20:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] Welding help wanted
References: <a3d73130-5962-b73b-445e-5ec3166215ff.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <a3d73130-5962-b73b-445e-5ec3166215ff@att.net>

I had the same issue with my first MIG welder.? The problem is that 
inexpensive units don't have a low enough voltage setting to weld sheet 
metal.? I had to purchase a bigger welder to get a lower range.

If your welder just has buttons/rocker switches to adjust the heat range 
it probably is just too hot.

Flux core welding wire seems burn through easier as well.? There is no 
substitute for a gas bottle feed unit.

Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Dec 18 12:27:21 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 14:27:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
In-Reply-To: <ABCCE1D9-34B0-4418-A469-3F442C8EDE4A@gmail.com>
References: <ABCCE1D9-34B0-4418-A469-3F442C8EDE4A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>

Yes - an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James
Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch

 

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.  Seems to be on no
matter which way I turn the round knob.   

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Dec 18 15:59:07 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 16:59:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
In-Reply-To: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
References: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <48D4035E-8BF1-4493-9047-2C1510106EF7@yahoo.com>

Off is full clockwise, past the ?Fast? mark. 
Bill B


#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:

?
Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
 
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
 
Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.  Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.   

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

<image001.jpg>
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 18 19:09:46 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 21:09:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
In-Reply-To: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
References: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <83729B56-E61E-49F5-826A-686048B21871@gmail.com>

That finally worked. Hadn?t been used in awhile but found off full counterclockwise before fast. Thanks

> On Dec 18, 2020, at 2:27 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:
> 
> ?
> Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
>  
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
> To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
>  
> Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.  Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.   
> 
> Thanks Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 
> <image001.jpg>
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 19 11:16:48 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 18:16:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
In-Reply-To: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
References: <ABCCE1D9-34B0-4418-A469-3F442C8EDE4A@gmail.com>
 <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1520925208.1671551.1608401809032@mail.yahoo.com>

 i dont feel the click on? mine. but all the way left turns off the heater.
Frank
    On Friday, December 18, 2020, 11:34:54 AM PST, auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:  
 
 
Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.

 ?

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 ?

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch

 ?

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.?? 

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



 ?

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 19 11:26:44 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 13:26:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
In-Reply-To: <1520925208.1671551.1608401809032@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1520925208.1671551.1608401809032@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D93C930F-280E-4C15-B508-08FBEA0681AB@gmail.com>

Thank you.  Didn?t work at first but after a few more tries it did.  Doesn?t get used much here in FL
Jim

> On Dec 19, 2020, at 1:16 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> i dont feel the click on  mine. but all the way left turns off the heater.
> 
> Frank
> 
> On Friday, December 18, 2020, 11:34:54 AM PST, auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
> 
>  
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> Jackson, Michigan
> 
>  
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
> To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
> 
>  
> 
> Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.  Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.   
> 
> Thanks Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 
> <image001.jpg>
> 
>  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 19 13:19:47 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 20:19:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 339
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1608404402.13192.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1608404402.13192.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <320655046.2595644.1608409187579@mail.yahoo.com>

? ? ? ? ? ?I found out 30 years ago gas welding is much easier than trying to use a mig. I usually braze which has even less heatbuild-up. The torch is also great for loosening fittings, brakes, etc. Because of this versatility, they are seen in every professional garage. Do yourself a favor and get one! You will be thankful you did. Joe Mato TR-3, 6. 

    On Saturday, December 19, 2020, 02:05:29 PM EST, triumphs-request at autox.team.net <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
??? triumphs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. TR3a heater switch (James Henningsen)
? 2. Welding help wanted (Q)
? 3. Re: TR3a heater switch (auprichard at uprichard.net)
? 4. Re: TR3a heater switch (bill beecher)
? 5. Re: TR3a heater switch (Jim Henningsen)
? 6. Re: TR3a heater switch (Frank Fisher)
? 7. Re: TR3a heater switch (James Henningsen)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 14:05:54 -0500
From: James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <ABCCE1D9-34B0-4418-A469-3F442C8EDE4A at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.? 

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 11:20:42 -0800
From: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Welding help wanted
Message-ID: <a3d73130-5962-b73b-445e-5ec3166215ff at att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

I had the same issue with my first MIG welder.? The problem is that 
inexpensive units don't have a low enough voltage setting to weld sheet 
metal.? I had to purchase a bigger welder to get a lower range.

If your welder just has buttons/rocker switches to adjust the heat range 
it probably is just too hot.

Flux core welding wire seems burn through easier as well.? There is no 
substitute for a gas bottle feed unit.

Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 14:27:21 -0500
From: <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75 at gmail.com>, "'TR3/6'"
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <01df01d6d573$cf131d20$6d395760$@uprichard.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Yes - an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James
Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch

 

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no
matter which way I turn the round knob.? 

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>? **

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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 16:59:07 -0600
From: bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
To: auprichard at uprichard.net
Cc: James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>, TR3/6
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <48D4035E-8BF1-4493-9047-2C1510106EF7 at yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Off is full clockwise, past the ?Fast? mark. 
Bill B


#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 18, 2020, at 1:34 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:

?
Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
 
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
 
Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.? 

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

<image001.jpg>
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 21:09:46 -0500
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: auprichard at uprichard.net
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <83729B56-E61E-49F5-826A-686048B21871 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

That finally worked. Hadn?t been used in awhile but found off full counterclockwise before fast. Thanks

> On Dec 18, 2020, at 2:27 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:
> 
> ?
> Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
>? 
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>? 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
> To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
>? 
> Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.? 
> 
> Thanks Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 
> <image001.jpg>
>? 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 18:16:48 +0000 (UTC)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: 'James Henningsen' <trguy75 at gmail.com>,? 'TR3/6'
??? <triumphs at autox.team.net>,? "auprichard at uprichard.net"
??? <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <1520925208.1671551.1608401809032 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 i dont feel the click on? mine. but all the way left turns off the heater.
Frank
? ? On Friday, December 18, 2020, 11:34:54 AM PST, auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:? 
 
 
Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.

 ?

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 ?

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch

 ?

Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.?? 

Thanks Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



 ?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 13:26:44 -0500
From: James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>, auprichard at uprichard.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a heater switch
Message-ID: <D93C930F-280E-4C15-B508-08FBEA0681AB at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Thank you.? Didn?t work at first but after a few more tries it did.? Doesn?t get used much here in FL
Jim

> On Dec 19, 2020, at 1:16 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> i dont feel the click on? mine. but all the way left turns off the heater.
> 
> Frank
> 
> On Friday, December 18, 2020, 11:34:54 AM PST, auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes ? an almost imperceivable click when first turned, then fast, then slow.
> 
>? 
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> Jackson, Michigan
> 
>? 
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 2:06 PM
> To: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3a heater switch
> 
>? 
> 
> Should the round heater fan switch have an off position.? Seems to be on no matter which way I turn the round knob.? 
> 
> Thanks Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 
> <image001.jpg>
> 
>? 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 339
*****************************************
  
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From italyfound at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 09:28:07 2020
From: italyfound at gmail.com (Alex)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 11:28:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
Message-ID: <5fe0cd17.1c69fb81.13407.268b@mx.google.com>

Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.

Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??

The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch. 

My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.

Any help or advised welcomed??

Alex Manzo

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 21 09:43:56 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 16:43:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <5fe0cd17.1c69fb81.13407.268b@mx.google.com>
References: <5fe0cd17.1c69fb81.13407.268b@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>

 Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.? US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.? Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

<!--#yiv5130344704 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5130344704 #yiv5130344704 p.yiv5130344704MsoNormal, #yiv5130344704 li.yiv5130344704MsoNormal, #yiv5130344704 div.yiv5130344704MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv5130344704 a:link, #yiv5130344704 span.yiv5130344704MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5130344704 .yiv5130344704MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv5130344704 div.yiv5130344704WordSection1 {}-->Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??. ?Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth?? ?The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch.  ?My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch. ?Any help or advised welcomed?? ?Alex Manzo ?
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Dec 21 10:00:51 2020
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 12:00:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>

Hi Alex,
Here is another mounting option. O?Reilly?s sells a USB receptacle that comes with a mounting bracket tha allows you to mount it to the bottom of your cardboard glove box 
. It is pretty unobtrusive but still completely accessible and it was only about $15.00 as I remember. That way you don?t have to screw around with your switch plinth. If you are interested, I can send you a picture. I just wired it into the switched 12 bolts.
Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:49 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.  US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.  Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch.  
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
> 
> Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.
>  
> Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??
>  
> The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch.
>  
> My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.
>  
> Any help or advised welcomed??
>  
> Alex Manzo
>  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 21 10:13:00 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 17:13:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>
References: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
 <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <110147153.1987088.1608570780790@mail.yahoo.com>

 I made a bracket that mounts to the two screws that attaches the stabilizing strut to the bottom of the dash.? I have two ports under there, one switched and one powered all the time.? Easily accessed yet still not in the way.
Another idea is mount it IN the glove box.? This way you can leave your phone on charge all within your locked glove box and out of sight.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: italyfound at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 11:00 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

Hi Alex,Here is another mounting option. O?Reilly?s sells a USB receptacle that comes with a mounting bracket tha allows you to mount it to the bottom of your cardboard glove box?. It is pretty unobtrusive but still completely accessible and it was only about $15.00 as I remember. That way you don?t have to screw around with your switch plinth. If you are interested, I can send you a picture. I just wired it into the switched 12 bolts.Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:49 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:



? Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.? US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.? Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

#yiv4993459113 #yiv4993459113 -- filtered {}#yiv4993459113 filtered {}#yiv4993459113 p.yiv4993459113MsoNormal, #yiv4993459113 li.yiv4993459113MsoNormal, #yiv4993459113 div.yiv4993459113MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4993459113 a:link, #yiv4993459113 span.yiv4993459113MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4993459113 .yiv4993459113MsoChpDefault {}#yiv4993459113 filtered {}#yiv4993459113 div.yiv4993459113WordSection1 {}#yiv4993459113 Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??. ?Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth?? ?The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch.  ?My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch. ?Any help or advised welcomed?? ?Alex Manzo ?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Dec 21 12:35:38 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 14:35:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <110147153.1987088.1608570780790@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
 <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>
 <110147153.1987088.1608570780790@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <022b01d6d7d0$76256560$62703020$@bell.net>

? or in the bottom of the ashtray.

 

Keith

 

From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: December 21, 2020 12:13 PM
To: dconnitt at fuse.net
Cc: italyfound at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

 

I made a bracket that mounts to the two screws that attaches the stabilizing strut to the bottom of the dash.  I have two ports under there, one switched and one powered all the time.  Easily accessed yet still not in the way.

 

Another idea is mount it IN the glove box.  This way you can leave your phone on charge all within your locked glove box and out of sight.

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net <mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net> >
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >
Cc: italyfound at gmail.com <mailto:italyfound at gmail.com> ; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 11:00 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

Hi Alex, 

Here is another mounting option. O?Reilly?s sells a USB receptacle that comes with a mounting bracket tha allows you to mount it to the bottom of your cardboard glove box 

. It is pretty unobtrusive but still completely accessible and it was only about $15.00 as I remember. That way you don?t have to screw around with your switch plinth. If you are interested, I can send you a picture. I just wired it into the switched 12 bolts.

Dave Connitt

Sent from my iPhone





On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:49 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> > wrote:

? 

Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.  US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.  Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch.  

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com <mailto:italyfound at gmail.com> >
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>  <Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth

Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.

 

Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??

 

The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch. 

 

My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.

 

Any help or advised welcomed??

 

Alex Manzo

 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 21 13:59:57 2020
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 20:59:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <5fe0cd17.1c69fb81.13407.268b@mx.google.com>
References: <5fe0cd17.1c69fb81.13407.268b@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR19MB313040AC6D41998D3D4676A9B9C00@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Alex-

Just checked a spare plinth I had, and no, at least on the one I have there is no 5th hole behind the vinyl.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Alex <italyfound at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2020 10:28 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth


Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.



Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??



The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch.



My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.



Any help or advised welcomed??



Alex Manzo



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10


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From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Mon Dec 21 14:26:20 2020
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (Tom Walling)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 16:26:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <022b01d6d7d0$76256560$62703020$@bell.net>
References: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
 <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>
 <110147153.1987088.1608570780790@mail.yahoo.com>
 <022b01d6d7d0$76256560$62703020$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <1747328543.156869.1608585981229@connect.xfinity.com>

Another option is to use one of the 2 braces that go from the bottom of the dashboard to the firewall. I have a double outlet power soutles (formerly a cigar lighter) attached to the one on the passenger side. Very easy, non-destructive solution.

>     On 12/21/2020 2:35 PM keithstewart at bell.net wrote:
>      
>      
> 
>     ? or in the bottom of the ashtray.
> 
>      
> 
>     Keith
> 
>      
> 
>     From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>     Sent: December 21, 2020 12:13 PM
>     To: dconnitt at fuse.net
>     Cc: italyfound at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
> 
>      
> 
>     I made a bracket that mounts to the two screws that attaches the stabilizing strut to the bottom of the dash.  I have two ports under there, one switched and one powered all the time.  Easily accessed yet still not in the way.
> 
>      
> 
>     Another idea is mount it IN the glove box.  This way you can leave your phone on charge all within your locked glove box and out of sight.
> 
>      
> 
>     Dave
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net >
>     To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com mailto:dave1massey at cs.com >
>     Cc: italyfound at gmail.com mailto:italyfound at gmail.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 11:00 am
>     Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
> 
>     Hi Alex,
> 
>     Here is another mounting option. O?Reilly?s sells a USB receptacle that comes with a mounting bracket tha allows you to mount it to the bottom of your cardboard glove box 
> 
>     . It is pretty unobtrusive but still completely accessible and it was only about $15.00 as I remember. That way you don?t have to screw around with your switch plinth. If you are interested, I can send you a picture. I just wired it into the switched 12 bolts.
> 
>     Dave Connitt
> 
>     Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
>         > > 
> >         On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:49 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com mailto:dave1massey at cs.com > wrote:
> > 
> >     > 
>         > > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.  US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.  Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch. 
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Dave
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         -----Original Message-----
> >         From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com mailto:italyfound at gmail.com >
> >         To: Triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net >
> >         Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
> >         Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
> > 
> >         Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Any help or advised welcomed??
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Alex Manzo
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
> > 
> >     >     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> 
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From islandgirl.sausalito at gmail.com  Mon Dec 21 12:57:37 2020
From: islandgirl.sausalito at gmail.com (Frank Burkhart)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 11:57:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
In-Reply-To: <022b01d6d7d0$76256560$62703020$@bell.net>
References: <922157728.1704202.1608569036994@mail.yahoo.com>
 <A6A1AFA0-61D1-493F-9477-5FA6ED8527F5@fuse.net>
 <110147153.1987088.1608570780790@mail.yahoo.com>
 <022b01d6d7d0$76256560$62703020$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <63CDCD8A-3DCA-4A55-B9F3-DF144A07ED23@gmail.com>

As a different approach, I removed the radio on my TR6 and put in a piece of aluminum.  The radio wasn?t of much use, given the noise level and if I wanted to get radio back, I can install some bluetooth speakers and use my phone.  I drilled a hole in the aluminum to fit the USB and used the 12 volt connector for the radio.  I chose a USB with 2 connections and a 12 volt display.  The display not only gives me an indication that the USB connection is alive but more importantly, a digital readout of voltage.  When the engine isn?t running, I get the voltage in the battery and with the engine running, I get the alternator output.  I connect my phone into the USB and have a mount that attaches to the dash.  As I haven?t ever had a working speedometer, I use an app to give me my speed.

Just an idea - has worked well.

Frank Burkhart


> On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:35 AM, keithstewart at bell.net wrote:
> 
> ? or in the bottom of the ashtray.
>  
> Keith
>  
> From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
> Sent: December 21, 2020 12:13 PM
> To: dconnitt at fuse.net
> Cc: italyfound at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
>  
> I made a bracket that mounts to the two screws that attaches the stabilizing strut to the bottom of the dash.  I have two ports under there, one switched and one powered all the time.  Easily accessed yet still not in the way.
>  
> Another idea is mount it IN the glove box.  This way you can leave your phone on charge all within your locked glove box and out of sight.
>  
> Dave 
> 
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net <mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net>>
> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>>
> Cc: italyfound at gmail.com <mailto:italyfound at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 11:00 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
> 
> Hi Alex, 
> Here is another mounting option. O?Reilly?s sells a USB receptacle that comes with a mounting bracket tha allows you to mount it to the bottom of your cardboard glove box 
> . It is pretty unobtrusive but still completely accessible and it was only about $15.00 as I remember. That way you don?t have to screw around with your switch plinth. If you are interested, I can send you a picture. I just wired it into the switched 12 bolts.
> Dave Connitt
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
>> On Dec 21, 2020, at 11:49 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> Some models had the ignition switch located on the plinth.  US standards dictated the use of the steering lock as an anti-theft device freeing up that fifth position.  Feel free to mount your power port there if you have no plans of changing back to the plinth mounted ignition switch.  
>>  
>> Dave 
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Alex <italyfound at gmail.com <mailto:italyfound at gmail.com>>
>> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net> <Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>> Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2020 10:28 am
>> Subject: [TR] TR6 Switch Plinth
>> 
>> Hello All?firstly?Happy Holidays to all??.
>>  
>> Quick question on a 1972 TR6 switch plinth??
>>  
>> The 1969 plinth has five holes?the 1970 and on have 4 holes with a space between 2 & 4 switch. 
>>  
>> My question is I am looking to install a USB charging port on my 1972. It appears there is adequate space dead center on the plinth between the switches where this USB port can go. Does anyone know if the 5th hole is still there whereupon Triumph used the same plinth but avoided using the center hole. It would be nice to just ?punch out? the existing hole spot if it is still there as opposed to having to drill a hole about 1? in diameter to accommodate the USB switch.
>>  
>> Any help or advised welcomed??
>>  
>> Alex Manzo
>>  
>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/islandgirl.sausalito at gmail.com

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From bill_beecher at flash.net  Tue Dec 22 12:43:35 2020
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill beecher)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 13:43:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
References: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$.ref@flash.net>
Message-ID: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>

I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my Mityvac to
the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is should fully move
the point plate, right?

Thx,

Bill

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 14:23:12 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 16:23:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
In-Reply-To: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
References: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$.ref@flash.net>
 <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
Message-ID: <4adfb733-8a74-ead0-cdc1-57d074109adb@verizon.net>

..you should be able to pull full vac by mouth just sucking on the end 
of the hose.

ptegler

On 12/22/2020 2:43 PM, bill beecher wrote:
>
> I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my 
> Mityvac to the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is 
> should fully move the point plate, right?
>
> Thx,
>
> Bill
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 17:00:41 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 00:00:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
In-Reply-To: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
References: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$.ref@flash.net>
 <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
Message-ID: <352969605.2318748.1608681641546@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yup.? In fact you should be able to make it move just by sucking on the hose.? That will tell you if you have a leaky diaphragm.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: 'TR3 Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 22, 2020 1:43 pm
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance

<!--#yiv3860738086 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3860738086 #yiv3860738086 p.yiv3860738086MsoNormal, #yiv3860738086 li.yiv3860738086MsoNormal, #yiv3860738086 div.yiv3860738086MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv3860738086 a:link, #yiv3860738086 span.yiv3860738086MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3860738086 a:visited, #yiv3860738086 span.yiv3860738086MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3860738086 span.yiv3860738086EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3860738086 .yiv3860738086MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv3860738086 div.yiv3860738086WordSection1 {}-->I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my Mityvac to the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is should fully move the point plate, right?Thx,Bill
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From nogera at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 23 06:48:41 2020
From: nogera at hotmail.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 13:48:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
In-Reply-To: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
References: <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$.ref@flash.net>,
 <000201d6d89a$bdc92e90$395b8bb0$@flash.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR17MB39844FD2065D87B0C9976D6EDFDE0@MN2PR17MB3984.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Yes, and it should be able to hold it  in a the advanced position until the vacuum is released.

Merry Christmas Bill

Bob Nogueira

On Dec 22, 2020, at 1:47 PM, bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:

?
I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my Mityvac to the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is should fully move the point plate, right?
Thx,
Bill
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Dec 23 07:26:27 2020
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 08:26:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR17MB39844FD2065D87B0C9976D6EDFDE0@MN2PR17MB3984.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR17MB39844FD2065D87B0C9976D6EDFDE0@MN2PR17MB3984.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3149C0B1-8E9C-44AB-A7E3-584B45F66481@flash.net>

Thank all for your response, time to go shopping again.  Looks like a pretty straightforward swap out.  
All the best,
Bill B

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 23, 2020, at 7:52 AM, Bob Nogueira <nogera at hotmail.com> wrote:

? Yes, and it should be able to hold it  in a the advanced position until the vacuum is released.

Merry Christmas Bill 

Bob Nogueira 

> On Dec 22, 2020, at 1:47 PM, bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my Mityvac to the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is should fully move the point plate, right?
> Thx,
> Bill
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/nogera at hotmail.com
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From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Dec 23 07:26:27 2020
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 08:26:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Advance
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR17MB39844FD2065D87B0C9976D6EDFDE0@MN2PR17MB3984.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR17MB39844FD2065D87B0C9976D6EDFDE0@MN2PR17MB3984.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3149C0B1-8E9C-44AB-A7E3-584B45F66481@flash.net>

Thank all for your response, time to go shopping again.  Looks like a pretty straightforward swap out.  
All the best,
Bill B

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 23, 2020, at 7:52 AM, Bob Nogueira <nogera at hotmail.com> wrote:

? Yes, and it should be able to hold it  in a the advanced position until the vacuum is released.

Merry Christmas Bill 

Bob Nogueira 

> On Dec 22, 2020, at 1:47 PM, bill beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I think I should know this but just to confirm, if I connect my Mityvac to the vacuum advance unit on the Lucas DM6 distributor is should fully move the point plate, right?
> Thx,
> Bill
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/nogera at hotmail.com
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 23 09:35:40 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 16:35:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] JohnMac Christmas Message 1999
References: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366@mail.yahoo.com>

?Have a very happy Christmas, the sort of Christmas many remember from childhood when life seemed more predictable and was more secure by virtue of its ordinariness. The children of today who are the victims of their peers are entirely deserving ofour special and private thoughts and prayers.
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Dec 23 10:13:53 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 12:13:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] a blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <652405093.3842953.1608741340366@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <720460a2-bc9b-3a98-0c10-9c6606b96eca@verizon.net>

credits where due....

Happy holidays all. Stay safe.

THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
by Lucy Mae Globule
The Steering Wheel newsletter
Atlanta Region SCCA - December 1966

(Apologies to Lucy for some slight changes)


'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the street,
Sat my poor little Spitfire, all covered with sleet.
The starter was frozen, the battery dead,
And clusters of icicles hung from the head.
Judy with the cables, and I with the crank,
Were trying to start it, but drawing a blank.
The best we could raise was a weak little clatter,
When what did our wandering eyeballs perceive,
But a fat little man you just wouldn't believe.
His cap was made up from a bundle of wire,
The tails of his coat were a crackling fire;
His eyes were like light bulbs (and one didn't work);
The man was a real electrical jerk!

He opened the bonnet and started to poke,
Thus causing a short and a puff of blue smoke.
He crackled and sizzled, then giving a zap,
He fractured the damn distributor cap.
He walked to the back end and giving a thump,
He jammed up the points on my Lucas fuel pump.
And laying a finger aside of his nose,
He sizzled away while the two of us froze.
He sprang to his car, in a movement so smart,
We almost expected the damn thing to start.
The starter turned over, the engine roared out,
And over the clatter we heard Lucas shout;
"Out TRIUMPH, Out LOTUS,? Out HEALEY, and SPRITE,
Out LUCAS IGNITION this cold winter's night!"
And we heard him exclaim as skyward he roared,
"Ta ta, crazy YANKS!? I'm powered by Ford!"


-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 23 11:03:04 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 12:03:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] JohnMac Christmas Message 1999
In-Reply-To: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <652405093.3842953.1608741340366@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <69C3B2DA-714F-433D-9A4D-868B826A67CE@yahoo.com>

Amen. 

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 23, 2020, at 10:36 AM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

?
 Have a very happy Christmas, the sort of Christmas many remember from childhood when life seemed more predictable and was more secure by virtue of its ordinariness. The children of today who are the victims of their peers are entirely deserving of
our special and private thoughts and prayers.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Wed Dec 23 11:23:41 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (trhouse at columbus.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 18:23:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
Message-ID: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>

>From Cal Sales western USA distributor winter 1954 best to all 
Tom
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 23 12:09:22 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 13:09:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
Message-ID: <368D1B03-E97F-4EAA-A988-3472C41F3DF7@yahoo.com>

Classic card. Thx!

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 23, 2020, at 12:30 PM, trhouse at columbus.rr.com wrote:

?From Cal Sales western USA distributor winter 1954   best to all 

Tom
<Dorothy Xmas TR.jpg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Dec 23 19:17:10 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 21:17:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
Message-ID: <006d01d6d99a$e325bae0$a97130a0$@charter.net>

Just Fantastic!

Thanks.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of trhouse at columbus.rr.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2020 1:24 PM
To: 'fot at autox.team.net'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card

 

>From Cal Sales western USA distributor winter 1954   best to all 

 

Tom

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From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Dec 23 23:42:05 2020
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 06:42:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
Message-ID: <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>

Great card...but I can't believe they misspelled "Aurthur"! :o
--AndyAndrew Mace
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com
To: 'fot at autox.team.net' <fot at autox.team.net>; 'triumphs at autox.team.net' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2020 1:23 pm
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card

>From Cal Sales western USA distributor winter 1954 ? best to all?
Tom** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu Dec 24 14:34:50 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 16:34:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
 <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <020001d6da3c$9caaf1f0$d600d5d0$@bell.net>

Andy, Andy, Andy ? don?t you recognize the British speelling?

 

Merry Christmas to all. Thanks for sharing Tom.

 

Keith

 

From: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> 
Sent: December 24, 2020 1:42 AM
To: trhouse at columbus.rr.com; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 1954 XMAS card

 

Great card...but I can't believe they misspelled "Aurthur"! :o

 

--Andy

Andrew Mace

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com <mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com> 
To: 'fot at autox.team.net' <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >; 'triumphs at autox.team.net' <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2020 1:23 pm
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card

>From Cal Sales western USA distributor winter 1954   best to all  

 

Tom

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Dec 25 05:43:48 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 07:43:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
Message-ID: <0C8A5E7BD30A4AFC9376DA3CD60F1ED2@VlackTK121647>

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 
Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

JVV
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From glewis999 at aol.com  Fri Dec 25 05:47:54 2020
From: glewis999 at aol.com (glewis999 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 12:47:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes,Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On?Friday, 25 December 2020,?Jerry Van Vlack?<jerryvv at roadrunner.com>?wrote:

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. ?My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N??Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.?JVV** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Dec 25 05:59:49 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 07:59:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>

I wasn?t looking for any political responses to my question. Please keep those to yourself. Not appropriate here.
JVV

From: glewis999 at aol.com 
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 7:47 AM
To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

Yes, 
Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote: 


  I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

  My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 
  Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

  Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

  JVV
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 25 06:02:37 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 13:02:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <0C8A5E7BD30A4AFC9376DA3CD60F1ED2@VlackTK121647>
References: <0C8A5E7BD30A4AFC9376DA3CD60F1ED2@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <1085759300.2712566.1608901357416@mail.yahoo.com>

 This is a TR4, right?? Pretty much the same on TR6.? The seal rides on the spacer.? New spacers are much less money than a Speedi-Sleeve.? I put a new spacer on my TR6 when I replaced the timing chain and it almost doesn't leak.? I think the finish on the spacer is not as smooth as a Speedi-Sleeve so the seal doesn't seal up quite as tight.? 

Also consider that there is a path for oil to slip through between the spacer and the crankshaft itself.? A little Hylomar might help.
I guess us kids are up early on Christmas Day while the adults (wives) sleep in.? ;-)
Enjoy the season.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Dec 25, 2020 6:43 am
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. ?My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N??Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.?JVV** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Dec 25 11:26:29 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 13:26:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>

Dear glewsis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewsis999 at aol.com> :

 

At a time when we are all suffering from a pandemic and a deeply divided society, this list is a source of escapism - regardless of our political persuasions, I think I am talking on behalf of many people who tune in to this chat page when I say ? CUT IT OUT !!  If you have nothing constructive to say ? say nothing !

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:00 AM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

 

I wasn?t looking for any political responses to my question. Please keep those to yourself. Not appropriate here.

JVV

 

From: glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>  

Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 7:47 AM

To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>  

Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  ; fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>  

Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

 

Yes, 

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com <http://mail.mobile.aol.com> 

 

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com> > wrote: 

 

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

 

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

 

JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs%20> http://www.team.net/archive

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From COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu  Fri Dec 25 12:59:14 2020
From: COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu (Cochran, David L)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 19:59:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>

Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.

On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com wrote:

?Yes,
Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com<http://mail.mobile.aol.com>

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that.

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley.
Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

JVV
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 25 13:07:47 2020
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:07:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
Message-ID: <BYAPR02MB4520DB9F9507E4718B62F29ABADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

If you would have stopped at "don't make this political" that would have been good, you know before you inserted your political views...

Marty

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Cochran, David L <COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 2:59 PM
To: glewis999 at aol.com <glewis999 at aol.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.

On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com wrote:

?Yes,
Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.mobile.aol.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C11a90c36a48e419202ef08d8a9101ab5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445233918826842%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=evRqN8CnvBtuK7qEACDpdtDMKwGfiO3dWhPwlgHLjAA%3D&reserved=0>

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that.

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley.
Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

JVV
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C11a90c36a48e419202ef08d8a9101ab5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445233918826842%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ofoxAhyVfKC3edt%2F3VqwaTrBmU8EAEerUilX87TQEDA%3D&reserved=0>
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Dec 25 13:12:07 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 15:12:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
Message-ID: <000501d6dafa$39681550$ac383ff0$@uprichard.net>

As I said, CUT IT OUT !

 

Obviously I agree with one of you two, but this is the Triumph chat page for goodness sake.  We need to police our chat page and keep it to the subject on which we are all in agreement ? our lovely old cars.

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Cochran, David L
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 2:59 PM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

 

Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.





On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>  wrote:

?Yes, 

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com <http://mail.mobile.aol.com> 

 

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com> > wrote: 

 

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

 

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

 

JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Thu Dec 24 14:50:26 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 21:50:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <020001d6da3c$9caaf1f0$d600d5d0$@bell.net>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
 <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020001d6da3c$9caaf1f0$d600d5d0$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <067982C7-C9EB-4615-9083-D61682D2EBAB@Ukpips.org.uk>

Tut, tut, tut, Mr. Mace. Never mind. I noted in the article in the latest TVT about 20TS that it?s author identified Sir John Black as Sir Black. 

Oh, dear. Sometimes I think a few lessons on how to address titled people is long overdue for our colonial cousins:) 

Happy Christmas, everyone!

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 24 Dec 2020, at 21:34, <keithstewart at bell.net> <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> o

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 25 11:51:55 2020
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 18:51:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>,
 <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR02MB45205C01285919B12A707DD1BADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

Jeeze, give the guy a break, one time little comment, delete move on enjoy 2021.

Marty

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 1:26 PM
To: 'Jerry Van Vlack' <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>; glewis999 at aol.com <glewis999 at aol.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net <triumphs-owner at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak


Dear glewsis999 at aol.com<mailto:glewsis999 at aol.com>:



At a time when we are all suffering from a pandemic and a deeply divided society, this list is a source of escapism - regardless of our political persuasions, I think I am talking on behalf of many people who tune in to this chat page when I say ? CUT IT OUT !!  If you have nothing constructive to say ? say nothing !



Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:00 AM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak



I wasn?t looking for any political responses to my question. Please keep those to yourself. Not appropriate here.

JVV



From: glewis999 at aol.com<mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>

Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 7:47 AM

To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com<mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>

Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> ; fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak



Yes,

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.mobile.aol.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C1b9eb69b85724d75ea2b08d8a902c3bc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445176624221500%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=wavf8E8YydfjuiM6KHUPv%2FC7hMpwZVqV1aTOAyOw6lo%3D&reserved=0>



On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com<mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>> wrote:



I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that.



My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley.

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?



Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.



JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C1b9eb69b85724d75ea2b08d8a902c3bc%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445176624231492%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=OZD%2FfVsks35SIY3lbMij3%2FEVP90Pgb%2F%2F6neFCQBYPd0%3D&reserved=0>
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Dec 25 12:06:04 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 14:06:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR02MB45205C01285919B12A707DD1BADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>,
 <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>
 <BYAPR02MB45205C01285919B12A707DD1BADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <10E6DE8F086A4C8E8F91F301F773ADB6@VlackTK121647>

It was my question and his response was uncalled for especially doing it anonymously.
Thanks guys for calling him out whoever ?Him? is.
No guts to sign his name.

From: marty sukey 
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 1:51 PM
To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; 'Jerry Van Vlack' ; glewis999 at aol.com 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

Jeeze, give the guy a break, one time little comment, delete move on enjoy 2021.

Marty


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 1:26 PM
To: 'Jerry Van Vlack' <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>; glewis999 at aol.com <glewis999 at aol.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net <triumphs-owner at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak 

Dear glewsis999 at aol.com:



At a time when we are all suffering from a pandemic and a deeply divided society, this list is a source of escapism - regardless of our political persuasions, I think I am talking on behalf of many people who tune in to this chat page when I say ? CUT IT OUT !!  If you have nothing constructive to say ? say nothing !



Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:00 AM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak



I wasn?t looking for any political responses to my question. Please keep those to yourself. Not appropriate here.

JVV



From: glewis999 at aol.com 

Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 7:47 AM

To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com 

Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net 

Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak



Yes, 

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com



On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote: 



  I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 



  My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 

  Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?



  Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.



  JVV

  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 13:17:41 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 15:17:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>

Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!

I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top
battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each
battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent
?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....

Dave
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 25 14:47:41 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 21:47:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1954 TR Christmas Card
References: <1446661065.4450038.1608932861416.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1446661065.4450038.1608932861416@mail.yahoo.com>

Where can this be found? Thanks, Joe
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Dec 25 15:21:48 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 17:21:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005b01d6db0c$56753260$035f9720$@charter.net>

Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Battery charging

 

Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!

 

I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....

 

Dave

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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Dec 25 16:57:57 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 15:57:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <005b01d6db0c$56753260$035f9720$@charter.net>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <005b01d6db0c$56753260$035f9720$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>

For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.

Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.

So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.

Good luck,

Rye

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>  
> Alex Thomson
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>  
> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>  
> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>  
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com

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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Dec 25 17:04:02 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 16:04:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
Message-ID: <B39F0879-6513-4F15-91DE-A387C326131A@mac.com>

I?ll go back to the original question. 

I converted to the thin fan belt, harmonic balancer pulley, no fan and went with an electric fan integrated in a Wizard aluminum racing radiator on my 1960 TR3A, and I don?t have any timing chain cover leak.  I used the gasket, along with some Permatex Black being oil resistant.  No issues.

Rye




>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy
>>  sleeves and might try that. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind
>>  the damper pulley. 
>> 
>> Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> JVV
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cochran at uthscsa.edu
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 17:11:30 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 19:11:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
References: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <EF759856-CE4A-405B-A491-7144D244CA47@gmail.com>

I have had same issues with battery tender jr.  They cook batteries if left on too long. You?d think a company would figure this stuff out.
Jim Henningsen

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:
> 
> ?For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.
> 
> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
> 
> So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Rye
> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
>>  
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
>> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
>> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>>  
>> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>>  
>> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>>  
>> Dave
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
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From ryel at mac.com  Fri Dec 25 17:16:28 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 16:16:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <EF759856-CE4A-405B-A491-7144D244CA47@gmail.com>
References: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
 <EF759856-CE4A-405B-A491-7144D244CA47@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F078617E-197E-4D3D-AEA0-ED35A97B6935@mac.com>

It appears that all the brands will do this.  Battery Tender Jr, Die Hard and others.  False sense of security we?re taking care of the batteries in our cars, and we?re not.  Probably takes a lot more expensive battery charger with lots of options to be able to leave it hooked up for months at a time, like over the winter.  Hopefully someone on this list will know of a proper battery storage/charger/tender.

Rye

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have had same issues with battery tender jr.  They cook batteries if left on too long. You?d think a company would figure this stuff out.
> Jim Henningsen
> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.
>> 
>> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
>> 
>> So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>> Rye
>> 
>>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net <mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>>>  
>>> Alex Thomson
>>>  
>>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
>>> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
>>> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>>>  
>>> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>>>  
>>> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>>>  
>>> Dave
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Dec 25 17:52:31 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 19:52:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <005b01d6db0c$56753260$035f9720$@charter.net>
 <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <009c01d6db21$64202400$2c606c00$@charter.net>

I have a Battery Tender Plus (1.25 amp) that I rotate between a couple of Triumphs and several garden tractors. Since I walk past these machines at least once a day when I go to my upstairs office in the barn, there is no issue with rotating the charger around. Sometimes I use an older (1970s) Balkamp 3 amp charger. What I have not done is to monitor what the battery voltage climbs to when on the charger for more than several days. I figure a couple of days, twice per month should be plenty of maintenance charging, especially when the batteries are ungrounded from the vehicle. I also have a LaMarche 5 amp float charger that came off a standby generator from our firehouse. Those charges are left on continuously and I can?t help but think they must work well. Those are very high end machines but they appear on e-bay, etc. They are also large and are designed for permanent mounting.

 

https://www.bing.com/search?q=laMarche%20battery%20charger <https://www.bing.com/search?q=laMarche%20battery%20charger&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=lamarche%20battery%20charger&sc=7-24&sk=&cvid=D01F2B213A14453E8D7DCFB4CAEE4736> &qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=lamarche%20battery%20charger&sc=7-24&sk=&cvid=D01F2B213A14453E8D7DCFB4CAEE4736 

 

I know of a fellow one town away who has an antique tractor collection of at least 30 machines. Every tractor is plugged into a battery maintainer. I think he uses the brand that is the parent company of the old Solar name. Don?t know if he actually has a tractor start-up day every now and then or not.

 

https://cloreautomotive.com/battery-chargers/ 

 

Alex Thomson

 

 

 

 

From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson
Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging

 

For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.

 

Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.

 

So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.

 

Good luck,

 

Rye





On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

 

Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Battery charging

 

Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!

 

I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....

 

Dave

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com

 

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Dec 25 18:27:51 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:27:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <005b01d6db0c$56753260$035f9720$@charter.net>
 <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <00aa01d6db26$53c4b990$fb4e2cb0$@charter.net>

I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts?

 

Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson
Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging

 

For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.

 

Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.

 

So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.

 

Good luck,

 

Rye





On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

 

Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Battery charging

 

Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!

 

I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....

 

Dave

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 18:51:29 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:51:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <00aa01d6db26$53c4b990$fb4e2cb0$@charter.net>
References: <00aa01d6db26$53c4b990$fb4e2cb0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>

Merry Christmas!  I took my TR3a out today top down with Santa hat in 50 degree weather.  Brrrr.  But the heater is working well.  
Cheers,
Jim Henningsen 
Ocala fl 

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts?
>  
> Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night.
>  
> Alex Thomson
>  
> From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
> To: Alex & Janet Thomson
> Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
> Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging
>  
> For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.
>  
> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
>  
> So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.
>  
> Good luck,
>  
> Rye
> 
> 
> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>  
> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>  
> Alex Thomson
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>  
> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>  
> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>  
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
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>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Fri Dec 25 18:53:47 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:53:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <EF759856-CE4A-405B-A491-7144D244CA47@gmail.com>
References: <8310247E-7F6D-4E6A-90D7-C7A439B7BC7B@mac.com>
 <EF759856-CE4A-405B-A491-7144D244CA47@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <39972aa8-dd55-e45d-69a4-fcaf28ab1e54@verizon.net>

Prior comment...mentioned the Optima battery... Odesseys are my pref. 
AGMs are the only way to go when not used regularly/seasonally.
Yes, they are more expensive. I've had one running for over 11 years 
now. THAT particular battery has also seen at least three totla 
discharges to where the starter wouldn't even click, and it still holds 
a charge to this day.

Lead acid (wet plate) batteries have a self discharge rate NOT designed 
for non-repetitive regular use. AGMs are closer to 'storage' batteries 
with a much higher current destiny and MUCH lower self discharge rate.
anyway.... to the point.....? if you fully charge an AGM battery, and 
disconnect it from the car electronics. You should be able to go a year 
or two without starting or charging and the car will start without issue.
BTDT for years now.? One of my cars hadn't been started (let alone 
uncovered) for nearly 3 years.? The Odessey battery (a 925 size) was 
still sitting at 12.4V and the car started without issue.

Ditto on the float charger comments.? BUT.... They CAN be left on but 
NOT when you have the rest of the car still connected.? The Juniors are 
trash. They see that 'trickle load' of the car, as a need to charge the 
battery.
Get a full tender or better yet a newer style digitally controlled tender.

jfft


ptegler



On 12/25/2020 7:11 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> I have had same issues with battery tender jr. ?They cook batteries if 
> left on too long. You?d think a company would figure this stuff out.
> Jim Henningsen
>
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 7:00 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:
>>
>> ? For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was 
>> surprised to hear. ?One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the 
>> business for 30+ years. ?The Interstate battery had died and even 
>> pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the 
>> battery. ?I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the 
>> front truck. ?I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as 
>> well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that 
>> I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr. ?He told me 
>> that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on 
>> all the time, and it will cook the battery. ?He recommends putting it 
>> on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and 
>> repeat. ?Well that?s a pain.
>>
>> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle 
>> batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the 
>> trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it 
>> will cook the batteries, which did happen. ?I tried using a Battery 
>> Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries. ?I was then 
>> told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, 
>> about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and 
>> it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
>>
>> So be careful with Battery Tenders. ?I have two Battery Tender Jrs 
>> and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor 
>> and a boat. ?Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and 
>> check the water level if it?s not a gel battery. ?I have an Optima in 
>> my Triumph and Kubota.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Rye
>>
>>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson 
>>> <aljlthomson at charter.net <mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a 
>>> slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it 
>>> needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the 
>>> smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the 
>>> ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is 
>>> leaking current. Another project to do!
>>> Alex Thomson
>>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
>>> <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>]*On Behalf Of*David Friedlander
>>> *Sent:*Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
>>> *To:*New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
>>> *Subject:*[TR] Battery charging
>>> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>>> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima 
>>> red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like 
>>> even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems 
>>> to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>>> Dave
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs> http://www.team.net/archive 
>>> <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com 
>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>> ?http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
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-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From jeffn at msystech.com  Fri Dec 25 19:54:21 2020
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 21:54:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
Message-ID: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>

 

I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a single
exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual pipes displaying
in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be deafening. I'm convinced
that Monza is way too loud.  Are there any other opinions that may lead me
to a valid decision? 

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays,

Jeff Nathanson

'72 TR6

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Dec 25 13:15:10 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 15:15:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR02MB4520DB9F9507E4718B62F29ABADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
 <BYAPR02MB4520DB9F9507E4718B62F29ABADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001201d6dafa$a66319c0$f3294d40$@uprichard.net>

Hmmm, Marty:  you told me ? Jeeze, give the guy a break, one time little comment, delete move on enjoy 2021.  

 

Can we please stick to oil leaks?

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:08 PM
To: Cochran, David L <COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu>; glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

 

If you would have stopped at "don't make this political" that would have been good, you know before you inserted your political views...

 

Marty

 

  _____  

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Cochran, David L <COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu <mailto:COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu> >
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 2:59 PM
To: glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>  <glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com> >
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >; fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>  <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak 

 

Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.





On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>  wrote:

?Yes, 

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.mobile.aol.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C11a90c36a48e419202ef08d8a9101ab5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445233918826842%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=evRqN8CnvBtuK7qEACDpdtDMKwGfiO3dWhPwlgHLjAA%3D&reserved=0> 

 

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com> > wrote: 

 

I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

 

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

 

JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C11a90c36a48e419202ef08d8a9101ab5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445233918826842%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=ofoxAhyVfKC3edt%2F3VqwaTrBmU8EAEerUilX87TQEDA%3D&reserved=0> 
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 25 13:40:51 2020
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:40:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <000501d6dafa$39681550$ac383ff0$@uprichard.net>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>,
 <000501d6dafa$39681550$ac383ff0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR02MB4520485DF94AE4E5D2AA2DEBBADC0@BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

I concur. I apologize for my comments, there can be nothing positive with me continuing. I am out and I truly hope all of you have a Merry Christmas and a great 2021.

Marty


From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:12 PM
To: 'Cochran, David L' <COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu>; glewis999 at aol.com <glewis999 at aol.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak


As I said, CUT IT OUT !



Obviously I agree with one of you two, but this is the Triumph chat page for goodness sake.  We need to police our chat page and keep it to the subject on which we are all in agreement ? our lovely old cars.



Andrew Uprichard



From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Cochran, David L
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 2:59 PM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak



Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.



On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com<mailto:glewis999 at aol.com> wrote:

?Yes,

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.mobile.aol.com%2F&data=04%7C01%7C%7C0422ed85d381468dc7db08d8a9117cfe%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637445239860865640%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=dNjkqXplddKSetHr%2FvRtJNIj9NK7JBx9RRRdsvHSWYc%3D&reserved=0>



On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com<mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>> wrote:



I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that.



My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley.

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?



Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.



JVV

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 26 06:40:07 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 13:40:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <618127577.2826144.1608990007568@mail.yahoo.com>

 Keep in mind that you can fit up a later, dual outlet exhaust manifold.? The exhaust ports did not move with the change to the CF engine.? Starting with the dual outlet manifold will open up your options.? The Falcon Sports Exhaust has a nice note to it and sounds great running through the gears but does tend to drone on the highway so depending on how you plan to use the car I could recommend it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Dec 25, 2020 8:54 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust

<!--#yiv4418064647 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4418064647 #yiv4418064647 p.yiv4418064647MsoNormal, #yiv4418064647 li.yiv4418064647MsoNormal, #yiv4418064647 div.yiv4418064647MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4418064647 a:link, #yiv4418064647 span.yiv4418064647MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4418064647 a:visited, #yiv4418064647 span.yiv4418064647MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4418064647 span.yiv4418064647EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4418064647 .yiv4418064647MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv4418064647 div.yiv4418064647WordSection1 {}-->?I?m sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a single exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual pipes displaying in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be deafening. I?m convinced that Monza is way too loud. ?Are there any other opinions that may lead me to a valid decision?  ?Thanks and Happy Holidays,Jeff Nathanson?72 TR6** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Dec 26 06:53:19 2020
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 08:53:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Battery Charging
Message-ID: <91428863.68791.1608990799521@connect.xfinity.com>

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 26 07:48:42 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 14:48:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
References: <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289@mail.yahoo.com>

 There have been a lot of blanket statements regarding chargers and battery charging.? Unfortunately, life is never as simple as we wish it to be.? And most of that can be attributed to the wide variety of styles of chargers.? One of the things I do in my professional life is evaluate chargers and they do vary widely.? 

First off, any reasonably priced charger cannot harm a battery very quickly.? Using a charger intermittently is the best practice.? A lead-acid battery will self-discharge at a rate as high as 10% per month so using a charger for a few hours each month is all that is required to keep up with a dormant battery.? If you want a set-and-forget charging regimen buy a plug-in charger and set it up to run the charger for an hour a day. or 15 minutes.? Or get a timer with week-to-week programming capabilities and set it up to run an hour a week.? Depending on the charger, of course.

The class of so-called trickle chargers vary the most.? Some are intended to keep a charged battery charged.? If you hook these up to a discharged battery they will burn up.? Some will regulate to 14 volts others to 13.5 volts.? Some are designed not to draw any current back out of the battery when AC is not applied, others will drain the battery at a low rate if not plugged in.? These range from cheap to really cheap.
Smart chargers cost more but are worth the price.? Smart chargers will automatically detect when a battery is charged and switch to a "float" mode.? Most have indicators to let you know when this happens.? However, not all smart chargers are the same.? Most can be left connected to the battery full time and will not draw current from the battery when no AC is applied.? Many of these will just start charging when power is switched on so using this type of charger with a timer will be fine.? But there are some that require user set-up each time power is applied.? These will not work with a timer but will be fine if you manually connect and charge your batteries.? I have a couple of these and they require that the user select the battery chemistry each time it is plugged in.? Great charger otherwise.
These chargers are designed to remain connected and powered up indefinitely and I've seen this done many times with no adverse effects.? However, doing so on a battery in a car that is down for the winter is unnecessary and a waste of electricity.? It is better connect it once a month or so and top-up the battery and leave it be.? 

And it will give you peace of mind.
 
Dave 

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From dmb993 at earthlink.net  Sat Dec 26 09:05:49 2020
From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 11:05:49 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
Message-ID: <830326241.899.1608998749879@wamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

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From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 10:26:07 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 12:26:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMy_zHgUXFXmtGe9BHJY43LL3wDdQyHqGaQk2N2ptQfDg@mail.gmail.com>

I have the stock system on my 75, and couldn't be happier with the sound.

On Fri, Dec 25, 2020 at 9:55 PM Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I?m sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a single exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual pipes displaying in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be deafening. I?m convinced that Monza is way too loud.  Are there any other opinions that may lead me to a valid decision?
>
>
>
> Thanks and Happy Holidays,
>
> Jeff Nathanson
>
> ?72 TR6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com

From fishplate at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 10:30:09 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 12:30:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CN8Q1TCkSbmjPXp1d1Vy_q30_MuP81k5F6ozmYF+iAfsg@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 9:49 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
> The class of so-called trickle chargers vary the most.  Some are intended to keep a charged battery charged.  If you hook these up to a discharged battery they will burn up.  Some will regulate to 14 volts others to 13.5 volts.  Some are designed not to draw any current back out of the battery when AC is not applied, others will drain the battery at a low rate if not plugged in.

You've just reminded me of the significance of the red LED on my HF
trickle charger which indcates proper polarity, even when unplugged.
I guess I'm off through the frigid weather to unhook the thing from
the battery.

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat Dec 26 10:55:51 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 09:55:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <e4415a64-34f5-9218-f7e9-cf7b161a77cf@earthlink.net>

I have the stock Ansa dual pipe exhaust on my 72 TR6 and think the sound 
is just right.? For regular driving around, you hear it at an enjoyable 
level as you go through the gears, but it is also quiet enough that it 
isn't a bother on a long road trip.

Some sounds are at the top of this search:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=ansa+exhaust+tr6&ia=web

I've heard the Monza and do agree that it is loud.? I initially looked 
at it based on price, but have since ruled it out mostly based on the sound.

Brian

On 12/25/2020 6:54 PM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
>
> I?m sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a 
> single exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual 
> pipes displaying in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be 
> deafening. I?m convinced that Monza is way too loud. ?Are there any 
> other opinions that may lead me to a valid decision?
>
> Thanks and Happy Holidays,
>
> Jeff Nathanson
>
> ?72 TR6
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 11:55:22 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 12:55:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <e4415a64-34f5-9218-f7e9-cf7b161a77cf@earthlink.net>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
 <e4415a64-34f5-9218-f7e9-cf7b161a77cf@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aa0NRE-y6htHvXsq+7qsPaM6=g+=SnNabr=6_7DDkqifg@mail.gmail.com>

I had the Monza System on my TR4A, basically the same as the dual pipe TR6
system.  It was pretty loud, not open pipe Harley loud, but hear you coming
a couple blocks away loud, more sound than I wanted, I cobbled a 4A front
muffler into the system, and the sound was just right.  Probably was as
restrictive as a stock system at that point, but looked and sounded good, I
got a lot of compliments on it.

You can buy the stainless sports systems from MOSS and TRF too, you will
get dual tips (not quadruple) but a more mellow sound out of the box.

On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 11:56 AM Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I have the stock Ansa dual pipe exhaust on my 72 TR6 and think the sound
> is just right.  For regular driving around, you hear it at an enjoyable
> level as you go through the gears, but it is also quiet enough that it
> isn't a bother on a long road trip.
>
> Some sounds are at the top of this search:
> https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=ansa+exhaust+tr6&ia=web
>
> I've heard the Monza and do agree that it is loud.  I initially looked at
> it based on price, but have since ruled it out mostly based on the sound.
>
> Brian
>
> On 12/25/2020 6:54 PM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
>
>
>
> I?m sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a
> single exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual pipes
> displaying in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be deafening. I?m
> convinced that Monza is way too loud.  Are there any other opinions that
> may lead me to a valid decision?
>
>
>
> Thanks and Happy Holidays,
>
> Jeff Nathanson
>
> ?72 TR6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 12:31:58 2020
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 19:31:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Message: 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1609009201.25016.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1609009201.25016.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <284819877.2856162.1609011118488@mail.yahoo.com>

 Rather ironic that you can't spell Triumph without T-R-U-M-P
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 20:07:47 +0000
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Cochran, David L" <COCHRAN at uthscsa.edu>, "glewis999 at aol.com"
??? <glewis999 at aol.com>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>,
??? "fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
Message-ID:
??? <BYAPR02MB4520DB9F9507E4718B62F29ABADC0 at BYAPR02MB4520.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>
??? 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If you would have stopped at "don't make this political" that would have been good, you know before you inserted your political views...

Marty

________________________________



?  
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 26 12:48:11 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 19:48:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1954 TR Christmas Card
References: <1112347696.4591272.1609012091516.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1112347696.4591272.1609012091516@mail.yahoo.com>

Can you guys stop fighting long enough to tell me where I could find it. Thanks, Joe
Joe Mato62 Wood RoadRedding, CT 06896917 232 1555
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 13:27:20 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 15:27:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix
Message-ID: <085501d6dbc5$8352cbd0$89f86370$@gmail.com>

Ok, it's the day after Christmas and time to get back to work on the cars.
I see that Pertronix now makes Ignitor II and III modules for more features
and protection (in case you leave ignition key on).  However, I don't see
them in stock anywhere for the TR4A.  Per the Pertronix.com site, the
original is LU-142A, II  9LU-142A, and III 7LU-142A.  They are listed for
sale on that site, but our, now two, big vendors in USA don't have it
listed.  

Anyone have experience with the II or III unit on a TR3, 3A, 4 or 4A?  Just
curious if they are all sold out.  

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 3A
62 4
67 4A
76 6
81 8


From ptegler at verizon.net  Sat Dec 26 14:06:56 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 16:06:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix
In-Reply-To: <085501d6dbc5$8352cbd0$89f86370$@gmail.com>
References: <085501d6dbc5$8352cbd0$89f86370$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5d9256e7-350c-b619-3b65-79e2470a7402@verizon.net>

the 142 is the same unit as the spitfire 25D4 dist....

cheapest place I've ever found for my Pertronix modules.... direct link 
to the list...more by dist type than just car (and or 4/6 pot etc)

https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/triumph.htm 
<https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/triumph.htm>

nfi just a satisfied customer (many multiple times)

ptegler

On 12/26/2020 3:27 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> Ok, it's the day after Christmas and time to get back to work on the cars.
> I see that Pertronix now makes Ignitor II and III modules for more features
> and protection (in case you leave ignition key on).  However, I don't see
> them in stock anywhere for the TR4A.  Per the Pertronix.com site, the
> original is LU-142A, II  9LU-142A, and III 7LU-142A.  They are listed for
> sale on that site, but our, now two, big vendors in USA don't have it
> listed.
>
> Anyone have experience with the II or III unit on a TR3, 3A, 4 or 4A?  Just
> curious if they are all sold out.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 3A
> 62 4
> 67 4A
> 76 6
> 81 8
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 14:27:38 2020
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 21:27:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
References: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi all,
I am getting ready to order a new top for my 74 TR6. Going back to the stock look with the reflective stripes and want to take advantage of the current Roadster Factory sale. I received samples of the Everflex and Robins material and am also considering the Canvas (expensive, but love the look) to. Right now I am leaning towards the Everflex but would welcome any suggestions/experiences.?
Thank you,
Robert?
Robert Rudolphi?74 TR6
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 26 14:46:30 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 16:46:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <2e3a0668-5cc5-394b-ffbb-3547cd8c0e02@adelphia.net>

Jeff,

I installed the Bell dual exhaust system on my 72. SS from the headpipe 
to the dual mufflers. Love the sound. A bit louder than the Bells on the 
3 and 4 bur I like it.

Bob

On 12/25/20 9:54 PM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
>
> I?m sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a 
> single exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual 
> pipes displaying in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be 
> deafening. I?m convinced that Monza is way too loud. ?Are there any 
> other opinions that may lead me to a valid decision?
>
> Thanks and Happy Holidays,
>
> Jeff Nathanson
>
> ?72 TR6
>
>
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From hupshall at triumphcars.com  Sat Dec 26 15:48:13 2020
From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 22:48:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 project for sale in North Carolina
Message-ID: <CO2PR04MB22647C11D63CE22AFF3C7206CEDB0@CO2PR04MB2264.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Hello Everybody,  I have received an email from a woman who lives near Pilot Mountain in North Carolina who has a TR3 project she is interested in selling.  Her message is below:

A friend of mine purchased a 1960 TR3 in 1970.Upon his death 12 years ago, to settle a debt I was the new owner of every possible part you could name.   I have stored all of this in my building since. The time has come that I need the room.  Is there a market and where for this car, maybe someone that wants to build one. I have numerous photos. Thank you in advance.

Merry Christmas Anne

If you're interested, Please contact Anne directly at aoclayton at yahoo.com

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 17:08:02 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 00:08:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <067982C7-C9EB-4615-9083-D61682D2EBAB@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
 <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020001d6da3c$9caaf1f0$d600d5d0$@bell.net>
 <067982C7-C9EB-4615-9083-D61682D2EBAB@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <1556362120.2878662.1609027682754@mail.yahoo.com>

 Jonmacneed to instructed them on how to make tea also.
Frank
    On Friday, December 25, 2020, 12:15:40 PM PST, John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:  
 
 Tut, tut, tut, Mr. Mace. Never mind. I noted in the article in the latest TVT about 20TS that it?s author identified Sir John Black as Sir Black. 

Oh, dear. Sometimes I think a few lessons on how to address titled people is long overdue for our colonial cousins:) 

Happy Christmas, everyone!

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 24 Dec 2020, at 21:34, <keithstewart at bell.net> <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> o
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 17:34:20 2020
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 19:34:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CN8Q1TCkSbmjPXp1d1Vy_q30_MuP81k5F6ozmYF+iAfsg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1452911332.2828869.1608994122289@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAO8Q7CN8Q1TCkSbmjPXp1d1Vy_q30_MuP81k5F6ozmYF+iAfsg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMEzvgMMCZxjMAa58uA7hHq_XngujfS0z=WPXK2Tva0Mw@mail.gmail.com>

Update: I bought a new, old school battery charger, no fancy circuits.  Two
of the 3 batteries declared dead by the "automatic" charger have been
revived and appear to be functioning well.

Safety first. I try never to leave them unattended. After hearing about the
fire, i also always on a timer in case I forget.
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Dec 26 17:48:29 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 18:48:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust
In-Reply-To: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
References: <009f01d6db32$6aa9d0d0$3ffd7270$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <014701d6dbe9$ff0ec7f0$fd2c57d0$@ranteer.com>

As someone else commented, you can fit up a later dual pipe exhaust on any
year.  

 

But - DO NOT put in one of those after market systems.  The TR6 (and the
350Z) have a wonderful, distinctive sound that is integral to the enjoyment
of the car and its identity.  DO NOT SWAP IT OUT

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jeff Nathanson
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhaust

 

 

I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseam. But, I currently have a single
exhaust system on my 1972 TR6. I like the looks of the dual pipes displaying
in the rear. But, I heard that the sound can be deafening. I'm convinced
that Monza is way too loud.  Are there any other opinions that may lead me
to a valid decision? 

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays,

Jeff Nathanson

'72 TR6

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From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sat Dec 26 18:09:19 2020
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 20:09:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
Message-ID: <007401d6dbec$e875b000$b9611000$@optonline.net>

 

"Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net
<mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net> > wrote: 

 

>I know of a fellow one town away who has an antique tractor collection of
at least 30 machines. Every tractor is plugged into a battery maintainer. I
think he uses the brand that is the parent company of the old Solar >name.
Don?t know if he actually has a tractor start-up day every now and then or
not.

 

   A few years ago, I was invited to see Jim Taylor's massive car collection
(which includes MANY British cars) up in the Schenectady, NY area.  I seem
to remember him saying that every car in the collection could be started and
driven at any time.  Every car had a battery maintainer attached to it. 

 

Merry Christmas/Let's hear it for Boxing Day/Happy New Year.

Dennis Culligan

 

 

 

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 27 09:10:34 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 09:10:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] new purchase
Message-ID: <c5992915-c69b-2efd-6b49-32c3bb598570@porterscustom.com>

Recently bought a customers '71 TR6. He had added some (so called 
performance items) headers, lrg dia exhaust, poly bushings, and tube 
shocks after I'd rebuilt the engine with a "fast road cam". He 
subsequently fell in love with a 410 420? Jag sedan and having never 
rebuilt the TR's carbs was unhappy with the car...and needed money for 
his jag purchase..? I rebuilt the carbs and that made it a decent 
driver, but the distributor was holding the engine back..sooo, I drilled 
out the distributor to accept the adjustable vacuum advance unit from a 
MG dist.. (25D). I now get 33 degrees total at 8 degrees initial. Added 
some real life to the engine.. What have others done? Pertronix and 123 
distributors notwithstanding.. daveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sun Dec 27 09:11:46 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 09:11:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] new purchase
In-Reply-To: <c5992915-c69b-2efd-6b49-32c3bb598570@porterscustom.com>
References: <c5992915-c69b-2efd-6b49-32c3bb598570@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1894ddf4-60fa-243f-fe45-278ac702954a@porterscustom.com>


On 12/27/2020 9:10 AM, David P wrote:
> Recently bought a customers '71 TR6. He had added some (so called 
> performance items) headers, lrg dia exhaust, poly bushings, and tube 
> shocks after I'd rebuilt the engine with a "fast road cam". He 
> subsequently fell in love with a 410 420? Jag sedan and having never 
> rebuilt the TR's carbs was unhappy with the car...and needed money for 
> his jag purchase..? I rebuilt the carbs and that made it a decent 
> driver, but the distributor was holding the engine back..sooo, I 
> drilled out the distributor to accept the adjustable vacuum advance 
> unit from a MG dist.. (25D). I now get 33 degrees total at 8 degrees 
> initial. Added some real life to the engine.. What have others done? 
> Pertronix and 123 distributors notwithstanding.. daveP
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Sun Dec 27 11:57:35 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 13:57:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <020401d6dc82$241d2f80$6c578e80$@bell.net>

My wife?s 74.5 TR6 came with a Robbins Sunfast/Stayfast top and it looks beautiful. It has been on the car for around 10 years now and there is no fading. The photo below was taken about eight years after installation. The top looks like a brand new one. I have since bought boot covers and tonneaus in the same material. The TR6 has a roll bar so after purchasing a tonneau, it had to be cut, hemmed, and supplemented to allow fitment around the roll bar. The top shop pulled out the fabric they use for Mercedes or Porsche tops and it was an exact match to the Robbins top/tonneau fabric. If you go with the fabric top, I suggest you get some RaggTopp cleaner and protectant. Since the car is stored for the winter, each spring when it gets its first wash, I use the cleaner with a soft bristle brush to clean it. When the fabric is dry, I spray on the protectant and give it two or three coats allowing drying team in between coats. For the rest o the season, the regular car wash is all it takes to keep the top/tonneau/boot cover clean.



 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

 

From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com> 
Sent: December 26, 2020 4:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Six Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top

 

Hi all,

 

I am getting ready to order a new top for my 74 TR6. Going back to the stock look with the reflective stripes and want to take advantage of the current Roadster Factory sale. I received samples of the Everflex and Robins material and am also considering the Canvas (expensive, but love the look) to. Right now I am leaning towards the Everflex but would welcome any suggestions/experiences. 

 

Thank you,

 

Robert 

 

Robert Rudolphi 

74 TR6

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 27 12:15:15 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 19:15:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] new purchase
In-Reply-To: <c5992915-c69b-2efd-6b49-32c3bb598570@porterscustom.com>
References: <c5992915-c69b-2efd-6b49-32c3bb598570@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <395316861.2953185.1609096515359@mail.yahoo.com>

My 71 TR6 came with both advance and retard module with a cap on the advance module.? I switched to some carbs from a 74-76 car which had the port for the EGR valve and hooked up the advance.? The difference was noticeable.? 

About all I've done to the engine was head work.? Shaved the head for about 9.25:1 CR.? Runs on mid-grade fuel.? Stock cam so it runs out of steam at about 4,000 RPM.? But lots of torque.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 27, 2020 10:10 am
Subject: [TR] new purchase

Recently bought a customers '71 TR6. He had added some (so called 
performance items) headers, lrg dia exhaust, poly bushings, and tube 
shocks after I'd rebuilt the engine with a "fast road cam". He 
subsequently fell in love with a 410 420? Jag sedan and having never 
rebuilt the TR's carbs was unhappy with the car...and needed money for 
his jag purchase..? I rebuilt the carbs and that made it a decent 
driver, but the distributor was holding the engine back..sooo, I drilled 
out the distributor to accept the adjustable vacuum advance unit from a 
MG dist.. (25D). I now get 33 degrees total at 8 degrees initial. Added 
some real life to the engine.. What have others done? Pertronix and 123 
distributors notwithstanding.. daveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sun Dec 27 13:29:23 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 15:29:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <020401d6dc82$241d2f80$6c578e80$@bell.net>
References: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020401d6dc82$241d2f80$6c578e80$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <9F578F24-8D62-47BC-98D9-DC8ECB4D4C9B@comcast.net>

	I got a Sunfast top for my TR6 about 8 years ago.  It looks and fits great when it is up or down.  The issue I have with the top is the difficulty in getting it up, especially in cool weather.  It was installed by a Robbins top certified installer.  Last year I was having my seat repaired by another top and upholstery shop in town.  The owner said that the issue he has had with Robbins fitment on TR6s was the the rear section is too tight and causes the top to be difficult to put up if it?s the last bit stiff in cool weather. As I said other than that, the quality of the Sunfast top is great.  When I  called Robbins after the initial installation they told me that the top would stretch after it had been on  month or two - didn?t happen.
	Happy holidays! 
	Best,
	Bob
	?72 TR6

> On Dec 27, 2020, at 1:57 PM, keithstewart at bell.net wrote:
> 
> My wife?s 74.5 TR6 came with a Robbins Sunfast/Stayfast top and it looks beautiful. It has been on the car for around 10 years now and there is no fading. The photo below was taken about eight years after installation. The top looks like a brand new one. I have since bought boot covers and tonneaus in the same material. The TR6 has a roll bar so after purchasing a tonneau, it had to be cut, hemmed, and supplemented to allow fitment around the roll bar. The top shop pulled out the fabric they use for Mercedes or Porsche tops and it was an exact match to the Robbins top/tonneau fabric. If you go with the fabric top, I suggest you get some RaggTopp cleaner and protectant. Since the car is stored for the winter, each spring when it gets its first wash, I use the cleaner with a soft bristle brush to clean it. When the fabric is dry, I spray on the protectant and give it two or three coats allowing drying team in between coats. For the rest o the season, the regular car wash is all it takes to keep the top/tonneau/boot cover clean.
> <image001.jpg><image002.jpg>
>  
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net>
>  
>  
>  
> From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com <mailto:robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>> 
> Sent: December 26, 2020 4:28 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; Six Pack <6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
>  
> Hi all,
>  
> I am getting ready to order a new top for my 74 TR6. Going back to the stock look with the reflective stripes and want to take advantage of the current Roadster Factory sale. I received samples of the Everflex and Robins material and am also considering the Canvas (expensive, but love the look) to. Right now I am leaning towards the Everflex but would welcome any suggestions/experiences. 
>  
> Thank you,
>  
> Robert 
>  
> Robert Rudolphi 
> 74 TR6
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Dec 27 19:13:33 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 20:13:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle
Message-ID: <000201d6dcbf$0b5ce570$2216b050$@ranteer.com>

Very early TR4 - essentially a TR3

 

I need to replace the front axle.  

 

Any directions/how to out there anywhere?

 

Thanks!

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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Mon Dec 28 05:10:18 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 12:10:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re:  Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>
References: <00aa01d6db26$53c4b990$fb4e2cb0$@charter.net>,
 <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB473971E71C416AAF66A6DEE5ECD90@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Jim,

A good time no doubt!

Screw the weather! Top down TR3 rides this time of year are a great way to kick the winter blues!

Here in NW, Ohio, I also took my top down, bright yellow TR3 out for a spin around our small town when it was 20F a few days ago. On Main St., surrounded by Christmas decorations and lights I saw a guy coming toward me in his, top down, red Corvette, wearing a stocking cap and smoking a large cigar. We waved to each other. Kicking winter's ass. Love my TR3! Smiles all the way home.

Randall Reihing
1959 TR3A

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:51 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Battery charging

Merry Christmas!  I took my TR3a out today top down with Santa hat in 50 degree weather.  Brrrr.  But the heater is working well.
Cheers,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala fl

On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

?

I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts?



Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night.



Alex Thomson



From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com]
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson
Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging



For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.



Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.



So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.



Good luck,



Rye



On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net<mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net>> wrote:



Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!



Alex Thomson



From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Battery charging



Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!



I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....



Dave

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 06:03:09 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 08:03:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re:  Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR01MB473971E71C416AAF66A6DEE5ECD90@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <BL0PR01MB473971E71C416AAF66A6DEE5ECD90@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <1B9CB168-A823-4BB0-83DB-240AAA2FB980@gmail.com>

Love it!!  Now if I can just get the flat spot out on acceleration near the top of the pedal.  I think I need to enrich mixture one or two flats due to the cold weather.  Jim

> On Dec 28, 2020, at 7:10 AM, Reihing, Randall S. <Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Jim,
> 
> A good time no doubt! 
> 
> Screw the weather! Top down TR3 rides this time of year are a great way to kick the winter blues! 
> 
> Here in NW, Ohio, I also took my top down, bright yellow TR3 out for a spin around our small town when it was 20F a few days ago. On Main St., surrounded by Christmas decorations and lights I saw a guy coming toward me in his, top down, red Corvette, wearing a stocking cap and smoking a large cigar. We waved to each other. Kicking winter's ass. Love my TR3! Smiles all the way home. 
> 
> Randall Reihing
> 1959 TR3A
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:51 PM
> To: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
> Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Battery charging
>  
> Merry Christmas!  I took my TR3a out today top down with Santa hat in 50 degree weather.  Brrrr.  But the heater is working well.  
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen 
> Ocala fl 
> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts?
>>  
>> Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night.
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
>>  
>> From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
>> To: Alex & Janet Thomson
>> Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging
>>  
>> For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.
>>  
>> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
>>  
>> So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.
>>  
>> Good luck,
>>  
>> Rye
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>>  
>> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
>>  
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
>> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
>> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>>  
>> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>>  
>> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>>  
>> Dave
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
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>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Dec 28 06:12:30 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 08:12:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle
In-Reply-To: <000201d6dcbf$0b5ce570$2216b050$@ranteer.com>
References: <000201d6dcbf$0b5ce570$2216b050$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <009a01d6dd1b$1a1f4240$4e5dc6c0$@uprichard.net>

If you are talking about the stub axle, you will need a press to free it
from the vertical link.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 9:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle

 

Very early TR4 - essentially a TR3

 

I need to replace the front axle.  

 

Any directions/how to out there anywhere?

 

Thanks!

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Mon Dec 28 06:23:17 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 08:23:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>
References: <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7FBF3944-594E-4B49-BD37-06D69902BE67@comcast.net>

Several years ago we started using a battery maintenance device on our airplane battery during the winter.  The battery maintenance device is on a timer so it?s on about an hour a day .  Since we started using it we have we have not had a battery failure.  A great improvement over previous battery life. Aviation batteries are very expensive.
    I also have a Battery Minder in the garage that I move between cars in the cold weather.  I?ve got a older BMW that generates  random (  it seems) trouble codes if I attempt to start it and the battery voltage is low.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:52 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Merry Christmas!  I took my TR3a out today top down with Santa hat in 50 degree weather.  Brrrr.  But the heater is working well.  
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen 
> Ocala fl 
> 
>>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts?
>>  
>> Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night.
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
>>  
>> From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
>> To: Alex & Janet Thomson
>> Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging
>>  
>> For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear.  One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years.  The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery.  I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck.  I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr.  He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery.  He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat.  Well that?s a pain.
>>  
>> Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen.  I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries.  I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem.
>>  
>> So be careful with Battery Tenders.  I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat.  Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery.  I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota.
>>  
>> Good luck,
>>  
>> Rye
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>>  
>> Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
>>  
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
>> To: New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
>> Subject: [TR] Battery charging
>>  
>> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>>  
>> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>>  
>> Dave
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com
>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 28 08:40:44 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:40:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <7FBF3944-594E-4B49-BD37-06D69902BE67@comcast.net>
References: <FD27AE6D-3AA3-4C05-BAA6-BEB87D02CF63@gmail.com>
 <7FBF3944-594E-4B49-BD37-06D69902BE67@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2120669042.2677472.1609170044130@mail.yahoo.com>

 After all this talk about charging I thought it was time to top up my batteries.? The TR6 has a constant drain from a radio with electronic tuning and a digital clock and a display that is always active.? About 5 mA.? The smart charger spent a few minutes in absorption mode and then to float.? But then I've driven the car fairly recently.
The TR3, which hadn't been driven since August or September, went straight to float. After 4 months of inactivity there was no appreciable battery discharge on the TR3.
I once parked my TR6 in a barn for 11 months (it was supposed to be 4 months but life gets in the way).? When I went to get it I came prepared for the worst but all I had to do was hook up the batter, start the car and drive home.
My experience tells me that batteries have a pretty good shelf life.? If the battery is disconnected or in a car such as my TR3 with no static load when switched off, it can go for four to six months easily.? Putting the charger on it once a month is plenty.? If you have a car with a static load (like most modern cars or cars with modern radios) once a week is probably a good idea.? If you want to set-and-forget get a timer and run it occasionally as Rob does with his airplane - though I'll bet 15 minutes a day would be plenty.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 7:23 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging

Several years ago we started using a battery maintenance device on our airplane battery during the winter. ?The battery maintenance device is on a timer so it?s on about an hour a day . ?Since we started using it we have we have not had a battery failure. ?A great improvement over previous battery life. Aviation batteries are very expensive.
? ? I also have a Battery Minder in the garage that I move between cars in the cold weather. ?I?ve got a older BMW that generates ?random ( ?it seems) trouble codes if I attempt to start it and the battery voltage is low.
Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:52 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:



?
Merry Christmas! ?I took my TR3a out today top down with Santa hat in 50 degree weather. ?Brrrr. ?But the heater is working well. ?Cheers,Jim Henningsen?Ocala fl?

On Dec 25, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:



?
#yiv0724164122 #yiv0724164122 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0724164122 #yiv0724164122 p.yiv0724164122MsoNormal, #yiv0724164122 li.yiv0724164122MsoNormal, #yiv0724164122 div.yiv0724164122MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv0724164122 a:link, #yiv0724164122 span.yiv0724164122MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0724164122 a:visited, #yiv0724164122 span.yiv0724164122MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0724164122 span.yiv0724164122apple-converted-space {}#yiv0724164122 span.yiv0724164122EmailStyle18 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv0724164122 .yiv0724164122MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0724164122 div.yiv0724164122WordSection1 {}#yiv0724164122 I forgot to mention ? here it is Christmas night and there are a bunch of us chatting about the relative merits of battery chargers, and we are doing it from each end of the country. This is why I enjoy this crew so much. There is just so much genuine help and assistance. We need to always give Mark Bradakis a big thank-you for keeping the mechanics of this process up and running. Where would we be without his efforts? ?Have a great Christmas, everyone , as well as a good new year. It?s now 8:30 in Connecticut and to all, a good night. ?Alex Thomson ?From: Rye Livingston [mailto:ryel at mac.com] 
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 6:58 PM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson
Cc: David Friedlander; TR3 Triumphs; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery charging ?For what it?s worth, here is an opinion from to experts I was surprised to hear. ?One is a Porsche mechanic who?s been in the business for 30+ years. ?The Interstate battery had died and even pumped out some white power at the end, out a breather tube from the battery. ?I cleaned it all up well, worried about battery acid in the front truck. ?I went to the shop, he?s an Interstate distributor as well, and bought a new battery and told him what happened, and that I?d had the battery connected to a Battery Tender Jr. ?He told me that even that brand, which is good, is really not good to leave on all the time, and it will cook the battery. ?He recommends putting it on for a week or two, then disconnecting for a week or two, and repeat. ?Well that?s a pain. ?Then in my Airstream trailer which has two 12 volt deep cycle batteries, I?ve read that the power converter that comes with the trailer also isn?t designed to leave plugged in all the time and it will cook the batteries, which did happen. ?I tried using a Battery Tender Jr on that but it couldn?t deal with 2 batteries. ?I was then told about an upgrade for the Airsteam power converter on Amazon, about $200 or so, which I installed and it does manage the float and it can be left plugged in for months and months no problem. ?So be careful with Battery Tenders. ?I have two Battery Tender Jrs and four Die Hard battery tenders for multiple cars, Kubota tractor and a boat. ?Just be careful how long you leave them plugged in and check the water level if it?s not a gel battery. ?I have an Optima in my Triumph and Kubota. ?Good luck, ?Rye

On Dec 25, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote: ?Are the batteries still connected to their cars? Maybe there is a slight draw on the TR6. Our TR6 took the whole summer off because it needs a new wiring harness. There were some wires that had let the smoke out! After I drove it into winter storage, I disconnected the ground cable and noticed that there was a tiny spark! Something is leaking current. Another project to do!?Alex Thomson?From:?Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]?On Behalf Of?David Friedlander
Sent:?Friday, December 25, 2020 3:18 PM
To:?New England Triumphs; TR3 Triumphs
Subject:?[TR] Battery charging?Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!?I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....?Dave** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 28 08:46:48 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:46:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle
In-Reply-To: <000201d6dcbf$0b5ce570$2216b050$@ranteer.com>
References: <000201d6dcbf$0b5ce570$2216b050$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1322366747.3082569.1609170408607@mail.yahoo.com>

 If it was me, who has no experience pressing that stub axle out and back in, I would contact Triumph Rescue or TSI or one of the other guys parting out cars and buy a complete vertical link in good condition.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Dec 27, 2020 8:13 pm
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle

<!--#yiv0650383912 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0650383912 #yiv0650383912 p.yiv0650383912MsoNormal, #yiv0650383912 li.yiv0650383912MsoNormal, #yiv0650383912 div.yiv0650383912MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv0650383912 span.yiv0650383912EmailStyle18 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0650383912 .yiv0650383912MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv0650383912 div.yiv0650383912WordSection1 {}-->Very early TR4 ? essentially a TR3 ?I need to replace the front axle.?  ?Any directions/how to out there anywhere? ?Thanks!** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From perryfly at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 12:55:40 2020
From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 14:55:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -
Message-ID: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>

Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldn?t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.  Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder 2 doesn?t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is this a function of the firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?  Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive

From runamok714 at aol.com  Mon Dec 28 13:01:51 2020
From: runamok714 at aol.com (runamok714 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Tap
References: <879373318.3861709.1609185711858.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <879373318.3861709.1609185711858@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello All,I was having a small fuel leak at the fuel tap. After 62 years I figured I would just buy a new one.Unfortunately the new one from Moss also leaks at the cork seal. I tried to expand the seal? with the adjuster but it still leaks. The new unit did not come with any instructions.Does anyone have any tips that might help?ThanksMichael59 TR3

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Dec 28 13:26:51 2020
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:26:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <9F578F24-8D62-47BC-98D9-DC8ECB4D4C9B@comcast.net>
References: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020401d6dc82$241d2f80$6c578e80$@bell.net>
 <9F578F24-8D62-47BC-98D9-DC8ECB4D4C9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <03c001d6dd57$c6da5920$548f0b60$@bell.net>

?  I  called Robbins after the initial installation they told me that the top would stretch after it had been on  month or two - didn?t happen.

               Happy holidays! 

               Best,

               Bob

               ?72 TR6

One of the other things I like about the Sunfast/Stayfast tops/tonneaus/boots, is that they do not stretch or shrink.

 

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

 

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 28 13:30:31 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 14:30:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -
In-Reply-To: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
References: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FD969839-85E3-4B1B-8A3E-47E8ACD8DE75@yahoo.com>

Sound like crud in the front carb.  Starving just enough for #1 but not #2, pull your float bowl cover and be sure everything is clean inside.   If you haven?t messed with timing or other electrics, the long time parked probably allowed debris to settle in the bloat bowl or jets.  

Bill
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 28, 2020, at 1:56 PM, Perry Hammock <perryfly at gmail.com> wrote:

?Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldn?t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.  Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder 2 doesn?t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is this a function of the firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?  Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 14:58:29 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 16:58:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
Message-ID: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>

Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen


From dave at mdmackay.ca  Mon Dec 28 15:41:57 2020
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:41:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
Message-ID: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>

I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A,
not a TR6.



Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight
that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The
tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the
fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous
tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent
me after that was no better.



The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have
shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.



I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your
installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me
than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.



As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV



Good luck,



Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L

near Toronto, Canada



>From: Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net>

>Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

>             I got a Sunfast top for my TR6 about 8 years ago.  It looks
and fits great when it is up or down.  The issue I have with the top is the
difficulty in getting it up, especially in cool weather.  It was installed
by a Robbins top certified installer.  Last year I was >having my seat
repaired by another top and upholstery shop in town.  The owner said that
the issue he has had with Robbins fitment on TR6s was the the rear section
is too tight and causes the top to be difficult to put up if it?s the last
bit stiff in cool weather. >As I said other than that, the quality of the
Sunfast top is great.  When I  called Robbins after the initial
installation they told me that the top would stretch after it had been on
month or two - didn?t happen.

>             Happy holidays!

>             Best,

>             Bob

>             ?72 TR6

>

>

>> From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com

>> Hi all,

>>

>> I am getting ready to order a new top for my 74 TR6. Going back to the
stock look with the reflective stripes and want to take advantage of the
current Roadster Factory sale. I received samples of the Everflex and
Robins material

>> and am also considering the Canvas (expensive, but love the look) to.
Right now I am leaning towards the Everflex but would welcome any
suggestions/experiences.

>>

>> Thank you,

>>

>> Robert

>>

>> Robert Rudolphi

>> 74 TR6
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From elliottr at rmi.net  Mon Dec 28 15:43:13 2020
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 16:43:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>

The instruction sheet I found has this:

    Q. What type of coil do I need?
    A. The ignitor is compatible only with a ?points type? coil. Eight
    cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms of resistance in the
    primary circuit. Four & six cylinder engines require a minimum of
    3.0 Ohms of primary resistance

So, it sounds like the 3.0 Ohm.

Link to instrucations: 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/LU-142A.pdf

Roger

On 12/28/2020 3:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
> with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 15:43:35 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 16:43:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <03c001d6dd57$c6da5920$548f0b60$@bell.net>
References: <49564542.4588915.1609018058481.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <49564542.4588915.1609018058481@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020401d6dc82$241d2f80$6c578e80$@bell.net>
 <9F578F24-8D62-47BC-98D9-DC8ECB4D4C9B@comcast.net>
 <03c001d6dd57$c6da5920$548f0b60$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3ab54O2yoeh9DEw5_HwuQY_booNHE1jYsJvECDaowuq0FA@mail.gmail.com>

As I understand it top and tonneau manufacturers usual a special "smart"
fabric, if you install the top loose it reacts by stretching, if you
install tight it reacts by shrinking.  As with many smart technologies,
they are still fine-tuning for real world use.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 2:27 PM <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

> ?  I  called Robbins after the initial installation they told me that the
> top would stretch after it had been on  month or two - didn?t happen.
>
>                Happy holidays!
>
>                Best,
>
>                Bob
>
>                ?72 TR6
>
> One of the other things I like about the Sunfast/Stayfast
> tops/tonneaus/boots, is that they do *not* stretch or shrink.
>
>
>
>
>
> Keith Stewart
>
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 16:28:40 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 18:28:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
 <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <0d5601d6dd71$2d86cbe0$889463a0$@gmail.com>

Thanks! Jim

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 5:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Question

 

The instruction sheet I found has this:

Q. What type of coil do I need?
A. The ignitor is compatible only with a ?points type? coil. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms of resistance in the primary circuit. Four & six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 Ohms of primary resistance 

So, it sounds like the 3.0 Ohm.



Link to instrucations: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/LU-142A.pdf



Roger



On 12/28/2020 3:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:

Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Dec 28 16:30:42 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:30:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
 <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <001b01d6dd71$75da1dc0$618e5940$@ranteer.com>

Absolutely 3.0 ohms.  The 1.5 ohms is for the cars that have a ballast resister built in

 

Pertronix makes a flame thrower coil which is excellent.

 

Also, btw, Pertronix tech support is really wonderful.  I had ordered the wrong part on an igniter set which previously had failed but out of warranty.  I called tech support and they sent me the correct part free!

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 4:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Question

 

The instruction sheet I found has this:

Q. What type of coil do I need?
A. The ignitor is compatible only with a ?points type? coil. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms of resistance in the primary circuit. Four & six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 Ohms of primary resistance 

So, it sounds like the 3.0 Ohm.



Link to instrucations: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/LU-142A.pdf



Roger



On 12/28/2020 3:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:

Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 16:37:25 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:37:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <001b01d6dd71$75da1dc0$618e5940$@ranteer.com>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
 <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
 <001b01d6dd71$75da1dc0$618e5940$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHn6LdfKw1rsE8Xtxt+kBSUtJirLaV3Yf8AV-pm4SS=xQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a V8 stag. I did away with the ballast and bought the 3 ohm
Pertronix coil. Only after reading the material. It says use a 1.5 without
ballast . 3.0 is not recommended for v8.

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 3:31 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> Absolutely 3.0 ohms.  The 1.5 ohms is for the cars that have a ballast
> resister built in
>
>
>
> Pertronix makes a flame thrower coil which is excellent.
>
>
>
> Also, btw, Pertronix tech support is really wonderful.  I had ordered the
> wrong part on an igniter set which previously had failed but out of
> warranty.  I called tech support and they sent me the correct part free!
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Roger
> Elliott
> *Sent:* Monday, December 28, 2020 4:43 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Pertronix Question
>
>
>
> The instruction sheet I found has this:
>
> Q. What type of coil do I need?
> A. The ignitor is compatible only with a ?points type? coil. Eight
> cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms of resistance in the primary
> circuit. Four & six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 Ohms of
> primary resistance
>
> So, it sounds like the 3.0 Ohm.
>
> Link to instrucations:
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/LU-142A.pdf
>
> Roger
>
> On 12/28/2020 3:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>
> Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
>
> with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 28 17:11:15 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 19:11:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <001b01d6dd71$75da1dc0$618e5940$@ranteer.com>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
 <fbd47f3e-dd86-c986-e086-3e8f03097ff4@rmi.net>
 <001b01d6dd71$75da1dc0$618e5940$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <0d7c01d6dd77$1fc72580$5f557080$@gmail.com>

Awesome and thanks! Jim

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 6:31 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Question

 

Absolutely 3.0 ohms.  The 1.5 ohms is for the cars that have a ballast resister built in

 

Pertronix makes a flame thrower coil which is excellent.

 

Also, btw, Pertronix tech support is really wonderful.  I had ordered the wrong part on an igniter set which previously had failed but out of warranty.  I called tech support and they sent me the correct part free!

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 4:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Question

 

The instruction sheet I found has this:

Q. What type of coil do I need?
A. The ignitor is compatible only with a ?points type? coil. Eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 Ohms of resistance in the primary circuit. Four & six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 Ohms of primary resistance 

So, it sounds like the 3.0 Ohm.

Link to instrucations: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/LU-142A.pdf

Roger

On 12/28/2020 3:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:

Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net

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From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Dec 28 19:50:37 2020
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 02:50:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -
In-Reply-To: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
References: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1998597666.5207674.1609210238008@mail.yahoo.com>

 Perry, I would try swapping the plugs to different cylinders and see if the problem follows what currently is the #2 plug to whatever cylinder you put that plug in.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Hammock <perryfly at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 2:55 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -

Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldn?t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.? Needed choke to run.? Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.? Put some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but running was really bad.? Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have pertronix) etc.? seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.? Checked wiring - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 across the board.? Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.? But, still, cylinder 2 doesn?t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.? Is this a function of the firing order?? I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.? Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?? Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 28 20:37:50 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 21:37:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 body production
References: <DAE2869D-1EDA-482F-A14B-61C532F0BD3F.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DAE2869D-1EDA-482F-A14B-61C532F0BD3F@yahoo.com>

A question arose about body panel fitment on TR3B cars as opposed to earlier TRs.  I knew B assembly was done elsewhere but were the bodies still made at Mulliner?
All the best,
Bill

#dontkillgrandma

From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon Dec 28 21:04:47 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 23:04:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Question
In-Reply-To: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
References: <0d1601d6dd64$93a12d10$bae38730$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5686a9d5-8f34-c30c-7b8a-d85685e0d4f1@verizon.net>

...has nothing to do with the Pertronix, rather if you have a ballast 
wire feeding your current coil installation. (no ballast 3 ohms (with 
ballast 1.5 ohms)

In both cases you simply run the RED wire from the Pertronix module to a 
true 12V source (not the coil+ if you have a ballast wire)

ptegler

On 12/28/2020 4:58 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> Anyone know if we should be using a 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil
> with the LU-142A pertronix ignitor?  1967 Triumph TR4A.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 06:34:06 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 06:34:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -
In-Reply-To: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
References: <ECA03804-0547-4F86-B831-F58AC6CF88B1@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFbUsCjvUPGELH9XxkRoj24kTre1P0KWrkFWaNyRmLOSQ@mail.gmail.com>

One possibility is a stuck float in one of the carbs (though it may have
freed up since it is now running better).

A quick check for that when it happens is to remove the top of the float
bowl for a look.

An IR temp gun can also be used on the exhaust manifold right after start
up... any cylinders that aren't performing well will have significantly
lower temperatures.

Geo

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 12:56 PM Perry Hammock <perryfly at gmail.com> wrote:

> Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed
> without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car
> practically daily in decent weather.
>
> When I got back, it wouldn?t start without starting fluid, and ran
> terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.
> Underivable.
>
> So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put
> some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting,
> but running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have
> pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
> Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring
> - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap
> with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one
> at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.
>
> Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137
> across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough
> to drive - went fine.
>
> OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and
> octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder 2
> doesn?t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is this a
> function of the firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be
> carb - feeds number 1 as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and
> from the cap.
>
> Any ideas?  Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!
>
> Perry
> 1960 tr3a overdrive
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 29 09:50:46 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 16:50:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>

 The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.? The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.? If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.? When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).? I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.? I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.? The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.
Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.? I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.? Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.? I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.? So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.? After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.
Or buy your top years before you install it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

#yiv8638386929 #yiv8638386929 -- filtered {}#yiv8638386929 filtered {}#yiv8638386929 p.yiv8638386929MsoNormal, #yiv8638386929 li.yiv8638386929MsoNormal, #yiv8638386929 div.yiv8638386929MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8638386929 a:link, #yiv8638386929 span.yiv8638386929MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8638386929 p.yiv8638386929MsoPlainText, #yiv8638386929 li.yiv8638386929MsoPlainText, #yiv8638386929 div.yiv8638386929MsoPlainText {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8638386929 span.yiv8638386929PlainTextChar {font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8638386929 span.yiv8638386929EmailStyle20 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8638386929 .yiv8638386929MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv8638386929 filtered {}#yiv8638386929 div.yiv8638386929WordSection1 {}#yiv8638386929 I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.?Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.?The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.?I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.?As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV?Good luck,?
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 10:01:27 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 12:01:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>

At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going
to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not
sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their
patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use
fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the
UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the
lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted
one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....

Dave Friedlander

Dave

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an
> additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem
> is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top
> less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and
> installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is
> the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect,
> especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top
> that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car
> was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed
> and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute
> that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>
> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the
> material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch
> the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>
> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my
> opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as
> close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day
> in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is
> virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less
> stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has
> dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this
> raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and
> placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.
> After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it
> easier to put up.
>
> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>
> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A,
> not a TR6.
>
> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight
> that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The
> tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the
> fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous
> tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent
> me after that was no better.
>
> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have
> shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>
> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your
> installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me
> than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>
> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>
> Good luck,
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Dec 29 10:53:16 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 11:53:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>

I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it

 

And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

 

At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....

 

Dave Friedlander

 

Dave

 

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> > wrote:

The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.

 

My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.

 

Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.  After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.

 

Or buy your top years before you install it.

 

Dave 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca <mailto:dave at mdmackay.ca> >
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.

 

Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.

 

The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.

 

I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.

 

As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV

 

Good luck,

 

 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 10:58:10 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 12:58:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>

I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type top for my TR6 for the last ten
+ years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed
and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through
the window....

Dave

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the right
> size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the
> hoodstick through it
>
>
>
> And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued
> portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options
> weren?t so expensive I would replace it
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *David
> Friedlander
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
> *To:* DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>
>
>
> At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going
> to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not
> sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their
> patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use
> fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the
> UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the
> lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted
> one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
>
>
>
> Dave Friedlander
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an
> additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem
> is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top
> less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and
> installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is
> the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect,
> especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top
> that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car
> was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed
> and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute
> that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>
>
>
> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the
> material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch
> the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>
>
>
> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my
> opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as
> close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day
> in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is
> virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less
> stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has
> dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this
> raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and
> placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.
> After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it
> easier to put up.
>
>
>
> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>
> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A,
> not a TR6.
>
>
>
> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight
> that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The
> tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the
> fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous
> tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent
> me after that was no better.
>
>
>
> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have
> shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>
>
>
> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your
> installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me
> than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>
>
>
> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 29 11:59:04 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 18:59:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1610533281.2888322.1609268344710@mail.yahoo.com>

 I couldn't agree more.? Even my TR3 tonneau, which is shipped with the snaps loose, was just too small to fit properly.? An additional one inch would have made all the difference.? I think they are influenced by the concour people who value appearance over functionality.? They want a nice, taught look to the finished product.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: dave at mdmackay.ca <dave at mdmackay.ca>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2020 11:01 am
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
Dave Friedlander
Dave
On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

 The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.? The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.? If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.? When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).? I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.? I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.? The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.
Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.? I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.? Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.? I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.? So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.? After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.
Or buy your top years before you install it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.?Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.?The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.?I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.?As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV?Good luck,?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 29 12:01:21 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 19:01:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1903033912.3335917.1609268481320@mail.yahoo.com>

 Maybe you can sue them for false advertising.?? Prestige?!!!
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2020 11:53 am
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

#yiv4798666056 #yiv4798666056 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4798666056 #yiv4798666056 p.yiv4798666056MsoNormal, #yiv4798666056 li.yiv4798666056MsoNormal, #yiv4798666056 div.yiv4798666056MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4798666056 a:link, #yiv4798666056 span.yiv4798666056MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4798666056 span.yiv4798666056EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4798666056 .yiv4798666056MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv4798666056 div.yiv4798666056WordSection1 {}#yiv4798666056 I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.? it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it ?And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.? Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it ?From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top ?At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns.... ?Dave Friedlander ?Dave ?On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.? The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.? If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.? When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).? I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.? I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed. ?My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.? The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run. ?Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.? I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.? Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.? I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.? So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.? After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up. ?Or buy your top years before you install it. ?Dave  ? ?-----Original Message-----
From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 topI, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.?Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.?The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.?I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.?As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV?Good luck,

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 12:23:21 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 14:23:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <1218153012.3342490.1609267978526@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27828EE33E5C2CCF2512D4E19EDB0@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <BLAPR03MB54928D51650F23DAC60ED432E4DB0@BLAPR03MB5492.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <508469BC-B9DA-4A7C-85A8-35E6D699C091@me.com>
 <1218153012.3342490.1609267978526@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting about the highly-rated Odyssey battery: It's only rated for
330CCA, whereas the Optima redtop is rated at 720CCA... I thought these two
models were AGM "competitors"....

Dave

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 1:53 PM Carl Hanson via NET <
net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:

> Gotta be careful about charging those AGM batteries. I made a mistake and
> used my usual charger on an Optima and it totally discharged. Had to follow
> a special method to get it recharged, but finally got it back to full.
> However, since then it does not hold a charge for more than a week.
> Bummer.
>
> Carl Hanson
> Former TR6 owner.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Barnard via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> To: bruce pierce <ag2dogs at hotmail.com>
> Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; NET Member mailing list <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2020 10:56 am
> Subject: Re: [NET] Battery charging
>
> I too have heard good things about the Interstate battery.  However, the
> fluorescent green case does not agree with my engine bay color scheme.  ;-)
> My last DieHard only lived 2 or 3 years.  To be fair, it was left on the
> basement workbench most of the winter, idle, as the trickle charger plug
> had popped out of the wall receptacle.  Also, I discovered that my
> alternator was weak.
> I bought another Diehard.  We?ll see how it goes.
> Too bad about Sears.  I kinda miss the days of going to the mall and
> wandering through the tool department while the family shopped for clothes
> or whatever.  Last time I went, the place was deserted.  I bought a
> Craftsman screwdriver.  A few weeks later I put it to the test removing a
> rusted screw, and the tip of the screwdriver itself twisted.  Damn!  I
> could take it back, but who wants another one?
> In my town (Grafton, MA) there are at least three houses that were
> purchased as kits from Sears & Roebuck, years ago.  They are solid and
> quite charming.
>
> My $.02
> _Rick B.
> 1973 TR6
>
> On Dec 26, 2020, at 9:07 AM, bruce pierce via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
> I have been in the Automotive Repair Industry in one way or another for
> most of my adult life and have installed Many different types of
> batteries.I have Always liked Interstate Batteries for durability and
> longevity over the "other" brands.
> It mostly comes down to the convenience of  where you are going to
> purchase it because most people are not going to drive 50 miles when there
> other choices closer.
> My 2 cents
> Bruce and the Flivver
> ------------------------------
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of Tom
> Mulligan via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 26, 2020 8:06 AM
> *To:* New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [NET] Battery charging
>
> I believe the Optima is an AGM (absorbed glass Mat) battery and quite
> different than the lead acid Die Hard. They are among other things far less
> prone to loss of charge from sitting idle. You situation makes perfect
> sense.
> Tom
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Friday, December 25, 2020 3:17 PM
> *To:* New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [NET] Battery charging
>
> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>
> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red
> top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though
> each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more
> frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
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From PeterAra at msn.com  Tue Dec 29 12:24:52 2020
From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 19:24:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 top
Message-ID: <SJ0PR05MB7626747D8E0E8EE0CF54D33EC1D80@SJ0PR05MB7626.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I have had two Robbins sun-fast tops installed by Robbins? shops.  Both were a little tight, but not too.  After a top is installed it should be left up for at least a week to ?set? the stretch and fit.  Mine always maintained the same fit for their entire life.  Same with the sun-fast tonneaus.  Also the top should be put up once every month or so to retain fit.
Will never go back to vinyl.
Peter Arakelian ? 1971 TR6

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Dec 29 12:45:08 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 14:45:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27828EE33E5C2CCF2512D4E19EDB0@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <BLAPR03MB54928D51650F23DAC60ED432E4DB0@BLAPR03MB5492.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <508469BC-B9DA-4A7C-85A8-35E6D699C091@me.com>
 <1218153012.3342490.1609267978526@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b0b45573-97ba-d5f0-9061-af41d285431d@verizon.net>

?? Which Odessey were you looking at?

330 is the 925 Odessey (smaller than the Optima and will start a 6 cyl 
effortlessley? BTDT)
The problem is the two companies doe not even list the same specs for 
the similar batteries
the 1200 will quite literally put out 1200 amps for 5 seconds. the 
925...925 amps.

The 1200 is also still a much smaller battery than the Optima equiv.

he he...i'd be deathly afraid if my starter needed 800A to start! Our 
triumph batt cables can't handle that kind of current!? ha ha

ptegler

On 12/29/2020 2:23 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Interesting about the highly-rated Odyssey battery: It's only rated 
> for 330CCA, whereas the Optima redtop is rated at 720CCA... I thought 
> these two models were AGM "competitors"....
>
> Dave
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 1:53 PM Carl Hanson via NET 
> <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
>
>     Gotta be careful about charging those AGM batteries. I made a
>     mistake and used my usual charger on an Optima and it totally
>     discharged. Had to follow a special method to get it recharged,
>     but finally got it back to full. However, since then it does not
>     hold a charge for more than a week.? Bummer.
>
>     Carl Hanson
>     Former TR6 owner.
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Richard Barnard via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     To: bruce pierce <ag2dogs at hotmail.com <mailto:ag2dogs at hotmail.com>>
>     Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; NET Member mailing list
>     <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2020 10:56 am
>     Subject: Re: [NET] Battery charging
>
>     I too have heard good things about the Interstate battery.?
>     However, the fluorescent green case does not agree with my engine
>     bay color scheme. ?;-)
>     My last DieHard only lived 2 or 3 years.? To be fair, it was left
>     on the basement workbench most of the winter, idle, as the trickle
>     charger plug had popped out of the wall receptacle.? Also, I
>     discovered that my alternator was weak.
>     I bought another Diehard.? We?ll see how it goes.
>     Too bad about Sears.? I kinda miss the days of going to the mall
>     and wandering through the tool department while the family shopped
>     for clothes or whatever.? Last time I went, the place was
>     deserted.? I bought a Craftsman screwdriver? A few weeks later I
>     put it to the test removing a rusted screw, and the tip of the
>     screwdriver itself twisted.? Damn!? I could take it back, but who
>     wants another one?
>     In my town (Grafton, MA) there are at least three houses that were
>     purchased as kits from Sears & Roebuck, years ago.? They are solid
>     and quite charming.
>
>     My $.02
>     _Rick B.
>     1973 TR6
>
>>     On Dec 26, 2020, at 9:07 AM, bruce pierce via NET
>>     <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>>     wrote:
>>
>     I have been in the Automotive Repair Industry in one way or
>     another for most of my adult life and have installed Many
>     different types of batteries.I have Always liked Interstate
>     Batteries for durability and longevity over the "other" brands.
>     It mostly comes down to the convenience of? where you are going to
>     purchase it because most people are not going to drive 50 miles
>     when there other choices closer.
>     My 2 cents
>     Bruce and the Flivver
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:*NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org>> on behalf of Tom
>     Mulligan via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     *Sent:*Saturday, December 26, 2020 8:06 AM
>     *To:*New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs
>     <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; David
>     Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>>
>     *Subject:*Re: [NET] Battery charging
>     I believe the Optima is an AGM (absorbed glass Mat) battery and
>     quite different than the lead acid Die Hard. They are among other
>     things far less prone to loss of charge from sitting idle. You
>     situation makes perfect sense.
>     Tom
>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:*NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org>> on behalf of David
>     Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
>     *Sent:*Friday, December 25, 2020 3:17 PM
>     *To:*New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs
>     <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:*[NET] Battery charging
>     Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
>
>     I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an
>     Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems
>     like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard
>     seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima....
>     Interesting....
>
>     Dave
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     _______________________________________________
>     NET mailing list
>     NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>     http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>     <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From runamok714 at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 13:28:01 2020
From: runamok714 at aol.com (runamok714 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 20:28:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Fuel Tap
References: <15886484.4151795.1609273681817.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <15886484.4151795.1609273681817@mail.yahoo.com>


Hello All,I was having a small fuel leak at the fuel tap. After 62 years I figured I would just buy a new one.Unfortunately the new one from Moss also leaks at the cork seal. I tried to expand the seal? with the adjuster but it still leaks. The new unit did not come with any instructions.Does anyone have any tips that might help?ThanksMichael59 TR3
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 29 13:49:23 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 20:49:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27828EE33E5C2CCF2512D4E19EDB0@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <BLAPR03MB54928D51650F23DAC60ED432E4DB0@BLAPR03MB5492.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <508469BC-B9DA-4A7C-85A8-35E6D699C091@me.com>
 <1218153012.3342490.1609267978526@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <16788608.3372051.1609274963992@mail.yahoo.com>

 Ya know what?? 330 CCA is plenty for our cars.? Tolerance of neglect is much more important. 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: chansonjag at aol.com; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2020 1:23 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Battery charging

Interesting about the highly-rated Odyssey battery: It's only rated for 330CCA, whereas the Optima redtop is rated at 720CCA... I thought these two models were AGM "competitors"....
Dave


Dave

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Tue Dec 29 14:39:16 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 21:39:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CC30214E-D444-4028-BEAC-FC5DF4C9E56D@Ukpips.org.uk>



Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 29 Dec 2020, at 17:58, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type top for my TR6 for the last ten + years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through the window....
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
>> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave Friedlander
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> 
>> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.  After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Tue Dec 29 14:48:44 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 21:48:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <78452B74-E971-4914-A12B-7DE2858B8E36@Ukpips.org.uk>

Sorry everyone but I?m having a chuckle at the expense of those you having soft top fitting probs. Someone commented the original patterns should have been tested on the car the top was designed to fit, or words to that effect?  

If it makes you feel any better, I have many memories of watching men on the line trying to fit tops, tonneaux and soft top covers to cars when they were new. They had major problems too and that part of the line was always a continuous sound track of oaths and expletives of getting the damned things to fit when the mTerial was cold, unyielding, inflexible and just plain cussed.

Take heart. You?re not alone and you?re not the first by any means.

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 29 Dec 2020, at 17:58, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type top for my TR6 for the last ten + years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through the window....
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
>> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave Friedlander
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> 
>> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.  After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Dec 29 14:52:52 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 16:52:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <CC30214E-D444-4028-BEAC-FC5DF4C9E56D@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC30214E-D444-4028-BEAC-FC5DF4C9E56D@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <8BB89B25-EE23-4798-84DD-9DF72F0B7CD0@comcast.net>

		So, does anyone have a canvas top that goes up and down as it should? We seem to have trashed Robbins and Prestige.
	 My friend has a Mazda and he can easily grab the top handle from the drivers seat and pull it up with little effort. A half century advance in engeneering?
	Best,
	Bob

> On Dec 29, 2020, at 4:39 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.
> 
> On 29 Dec 2020, at 17:58, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
>> I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type top for my TR6 for the last ten + years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through the window....
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
>> I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
>> To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>>
>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; dave at mdmackay.ca <mailto:dave at mdmackay.ca>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave Friedlander
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.  After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca <mailto:dave at mdmackay.ca>>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>> 
>> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com>** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net

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From ryel at mac.com  Tue Dec 29 14:56:39 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 13:56:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery charging
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhX3Qmc00=kdrojyHoSGf8_rny57zg6MkcTro8BMOPBLg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27828EE33E5C2CCF2512D4E19EDB0@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <BLAPR03MB54928D51650F23DAC60ED432E4DB0@BLAPR03MB5492.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <508469BC-B9DA-4A7C-85A8-35E6D699C091@me.com>
 <1218153012.3342490.1609267978526@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwh_8JdCTV532=r3c_ZYqVtj3ZqkJa_Ev9z5deSaxEPLgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9D10432F-0C3F-4A3E-AFBC-13591AD64698@mac.com>

Just a bit of a side topic, a few years ago I bought the Solar brand of battery tester.  You can leave the battery in the car and hooked up to test, or not.  It doesn?t need to be fully charged when testing either.
https://www.amazon.com/BA9-40-1200-Digital-Battery-System/dp/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=12+volt+battery+tester+automotive+solar&qid=1609278461&sr=8-5 <https://www.amazon.com/BA9-40-1200-Digital-Battery-System/dp/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=12+volt+battery+tester+automotive+solar&qid=1609278461&sr=8-5>

This came to mind when Dave was talking about CCAs.  I?ve had a red top Optima in my TR3 for maybe 5-6 years now.  I was testing a deep cycle battery at the time, and decided to check other batteries in other vehicles, including the Optima in the Triumph.  As Dave said, it?s rated at 720CCA.  Being several years old, and I?ve heard that about 5 years is the typical life of a car battery, my expectation was low. I was very pleasantly surprised that it was still at 650CCAs, with a green light on the battery tester that this battery is good!

It?s a nifty tool for testing batteries.

Rye





> On Dec 29, 2020, at 11:23 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Interesting about the highly-rated Odyssey battery: It's only rated for 330CCA, whereas the Optima redtop is rated at 720CCA... I thought these two models were AGM "competitors"....
> 
> Dave
> 
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 1:53 PM Carl Hanson via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
> Gotta be careful about charging those AGM batteries. I made a mistake and used my usual charger on an Optima and it totally discharged. Had to follow a special method to get it recharged, but finally got it back to full. However, since then it does not hold a charge for more than a week.  Bummer.
> 
> Carl Hanson
> Former TR6 owner.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Barnard via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
> To: bruce pierce <ag2dogs at hotmail.com <mailto:ag2dogs at hotmail.com>>
> Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; NET Member mailing list <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
> Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2020 10:56 am
> Subject: Re: [NET] Battery charging
> 
> 	I too have heard good things about the Interstate battery.  However, the fluorescent green case does not agree with my engine bay color scheme.  ;-)
> 	My last DieHard only lived 2 or 3 years.  To be fair, it was left on the basement workbench most of the winter, idle, as the trickle charger plug had popped out of the wall receptacle.  Also, I discovered that my alternator was weak.
> 	I bought another Diehard.  We?ll see how it goes.
> 	Too bad about Sears.  I kinda miss the days of going to the mall and wandering through the tool department while the family shopped for clothes or whatever.  Last time I went, the place was deserted.  I bought a Craftsman screwdriver.  A few weeks later I put it to the test removing a rusted screw, and the tip of the screwdriver itself twisted.  Damn!  I could take it back, but who wants another one?
> 	In my town (Grafton, MA) there are at least three houses that were purchased as kits from Sears & Roebuck, years ago.  They are solid and quite charming.
> 
> My $.02
> _Rick B.
> 1973 TR6
> 
>> On Dec 26, 2020, at 9:07 AM, bruce pierce via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>> wrote:
>> 
> 
> I have been in the Automotive Repair Industry in one way or another for most of my adult life and have installed Many different types of batteries.I have Always liked Interstate Batteries for durability and longevity over the "other" brands.
> It mostly comes down to the convenience of  where you are going to purchase it because most people are not going to drive 50 miles when there other choices closer.
> My 2 cents
> Bruce and the Flivver 
> From: NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org>> on behalf of Tom Mulligan via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
> Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 8:06 AM
> To: New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>; David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: [NET] Battery charging
>  
> I believe the Optima is an AGM (absorbed glass Mat) battery and quite different than the lead acid Die Hard. They are among other things far less prone to loss of charge from sitting idle. You situation makes perfect sense.
> Tom
> 
> From: NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org>> on behalf of David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:17 PM
> To: New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [NET] Battery charging
>  
> Hey all ~ Merry Christmas ...!
> 
> I have one float charger that serves both my TR3 that has an Optima red top battery and my TR6 that has a Sears Die Hard. Seems like even though each battery is only 2 -3 years old, the Die Hard seems to need more frequent ?topping up? than the Optima.... Interesting....
> 
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org <http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 29 15:00:24 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 22:00:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <8BB89B25-EE23-4798-84DD-9DF72F0B7CD0@comcast.net>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC30214E-D444-4028-BEAC-FC5DF4C9E56D@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <8BB89B25-EE23-4798-84DD-9DF72F0B7CD0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1071167161.3375086.1609279224372@mail.yahoo.com>

 Half a century and probably half a million in R&D.
I had an EZ-On top installed last March/April.? It was really tight and hard to put up when it was first installed but I've left it up when I'm not driving it and it has been getting easier though still a little bit of a tug to get latched.? But my last top (vinyl) flipped up and latched with no effort at all.? I miss that top.? But after 25 years it was a bit long in the tooth.? We will see how much easier it gets over the years.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2020 3:52 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top

 So, does anyone have a canvas top that goes up and down as it should? We seem to have trashed Robbins and Prestige. ?My friend has a Mazda and he can easily grab the top handle from the drivers seat and pull it up with little effort. A half century advance in engeneering? Best, Bob


On Dec 29, 2020, at 4:39 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk> wrote:



Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.
On 29 Dec 2020, at 17:58, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:


I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type?top for my TR6 for the last ten + years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through the window....
Dave
On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.? it really is not the right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see the hoodstick through it?And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued portions that have become unglued.? Its really awful, and if my options weren?t so expensive I would replace it?From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top?At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight. Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....?Dave Friedlander?Dave?On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.? The problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the top less and less stretchable.? If the top stretched whens installed (and installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect, especially when cold.? When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car was totaled before he could get it installed).? I had that top installed and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.? I attribute that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.?My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the material is more resistant to stretching.? The installer will pre-stretch the top less and it will work better in the long run.?Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.? I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day in the sun.? Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less stretchy it has become easier to install.? I think the plasticizer has dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.? So, this raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.? After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it easier to put up.?Or buy your top years before you install it.?Dave ??-----Original Message-----
From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 topI, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a TR3A, not a TR6.?Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather. The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent me after that was no better.?The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.?I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.?As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV?Good luck,?



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From fishplate at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 15:01:42 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 17:01:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] New TR6 top
In-Reply-To: <8BB89B25-EE23-4798-84DD-9DF72F0B7CD0@comcast.net>
References: <c1f90aae6b40d4080186aacf2d34c929@mail.gmail.com>
 <2097772506.2908184.1609260646853@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ1eQwjK-E9_0=kCWDQJ=wqj=Af4wU-1TCeSv4A1ke8A-ezYMg@mail.gmail.com>
 <000001d6de0b$7c945230$75bcf690$@ranteer.com>
 <CAJ1eQwhVOMpT1nwtbaA97xos-WXzHp414n4itp9dYgUf0VCCVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CC30214E-D444-4028-BEAC-FC5DF4C9E56D@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <8BB89B25-EE23-4798-84DD-9DF72F0B7CD0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNra_ZzKTXuCbPnhe1k1WfEwR3xat7RfUyVC9LzcZM9Jw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 1976 Spitfire with the original top.  Still fits like a glove.  I
attribute that to the DPO storing the car with the top up.

I also have a 1975 TR6 that was always parked with the top down.  I can't
close the top, and I need to replace it not because it's worn, but because
they let it shrink.

Bottom line: erect your hood when you park your car.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 16:53 Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

> So, does anyone have a canvas top that goes up and down as it should? We
> seem to have trashed Robbins and Prestige.
>  My friend has a Mazda and he can easily grab the top handle from the
> drivers seat and pull it up with little effort. A half century advance in
> engeneering?
> Best,
> Bob
>
> On Dec 29, 2020, at 4:39 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest
> intentions.
>
> On 29 Dec 2020, at 17:58, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have had a Prestige Twilfast-canvas-type top for my TR6 for the last ten
> + years. It still looks and fits great! I had it professionally installed
> and I've had zero regrets. Not sure how you can see the hoodstick through
> the window....
>
> Dave
>
> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:53 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a prestige top on my tr6 and I hate it.  it really is not the
>> right size (too narrow) and the rear window is too large, so you can see
>> the hoodstick through it
>>
>>
>>
>> And, just half a dozen years from having it installed, there are glued
>> portions that have become unglued.  Its really awful, and if my options
>> weren?t so expensive I would replace it
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *David
>> Friedlander
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2020 11:01 AM
>> *To:* DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net; dave at mdmackay.ca
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>>
>>
>>
>> At least the vinyl top has a plasticizer in it. Sunfast tops are NOT
>> going to stretch no matter what or when. When they're tight, they're tight.
>> Not sure I understand why the various manufacturers don't try out their
>> patterns on actual vehicles and adjust them, especially for when they use
>> fabrics that don't stretch. I have a hoodstick cover from Prestige in the
>> UK and have had a real challenge to get it to stretch to fit the
>> lift-the-dot fasteners properly. The manufacturer has never actually fitted
>> one to a real TR3 so I don't know how they derive their patterns....
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave Friedlander
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 11:51 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>> The vinyl material used in tops is produced with a plasticizer which is
>> an additive that makes the vinyl soft, pliable and stretchable.  The
>> problem is this product is volatile and will dissipate over time making the
>> top less and less stretchable.  If the top stretched whens installed (and
>> installers don't like wrinkles and the easiest way to remove wrinkles is
>> the stretch the top to remove them) it will become more difficult to erect,
>> especially when cold.  When I rebuilt my TR6 in 1996 a friend gave me a top
>> that was sitting in his basement for 20-odd years (he bought it but his car
>> was totaled before he could get it installed).  I had that top installed
>> and it was a dream to erect and fold the whole time I had it.  I attribute
>> that to the fact that it wasn't stretchable when installed.
>>
>>
>>
>> My advice is to get your top installed when the weather is cold and the
>> material is more resistant to stretching.  The installer will pre-stretch
>> the top less and it will work better in the long run.
>>
>>
>>
>> Here's another anecdote: I bought a tonneau for the TR3 which was, in my
>> opinion, cut about 1 inch too short.  I installed the Lift-A-Dot snaps as
>> close to the edges as I could but still could only install it on a hot day
>> in the sun.  Since this car lives mostly in the garage the tonneau is
>> virtually permanently installed and over the years as the cover gets less
>> stretchy it has become easier to install.  I think the plasticizer has
>> dissipated and the top took a set in the stretched position.  So, this
>> raises a question: What would happen if one slit some garden hose and
>> placed it over the bows and left the top up with a little extra stretch.
>> After a while the top will take a set with extra slack, perhaps making it
>> easier to put up.
>>
>>
>>
>> Or buy your top years before you install it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 4:41 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6 top
>>
>> I, too, have had problems with the Robbins tops although my car is a
>> TR3A, not a TR6.
>>
>>
>>
>> Like Bob with his TR6, my tonneau (and also a convertible top) is so
>> tight that I can only fit it with great effort even in warm sunny weather.
>> The tonneau was installed by professional installers who complained about
>> the fit. Robbins was responsive when I complained. I even sent my previous
>> tonneau to them so they could see what fit, but the replacement they sent
>> me after that was no better.
>>
>>
>>
>> The top hasn?t stretched or loosened over time. If anything, it may have
>> shrunk because it seems as hard or harder than ever to put on.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would suggest having the top (tonneau or convertible) made by your
>> installer so that you get a good fit. That would have been cheaper for me
>> than buying the Robbins tonneau and having to pay for two installations.
>>
>>
>>
>> As always, particularly since you?re dealing with a TR6 not a TR3A, YMMV
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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>
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>
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 15:41:46 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 17:41:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix
In-Reply-To: <5d9256e7-350c-b619-3b65-79e2470a7402@verizon.net>
References: <5d9256e7-350c-b619-3b65-79e2470a7402@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <6595885E-F36A-4E5B-8022-162D6FDF8619@gmail.com>

They are even cheaper on Amazon now.  Amazing.  

> On Dec 26, 2020, at 4:07 PM, Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> ?the 142 is the same unit as the spitfire 25D4 dist....
> 
> cheapest place I've ever found for my Pertronix modules.... direct link to the list...more by dist type than just car (and or 4/6 pot etc)
> 
> https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/triumph.htm <https://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/triumph.htm>
> 
> nfi just a satisfied customer (many multiple times)
> 
> ptegler
> 
>> On 12/26/2020 3:27 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>> Ok, it's the day after Christmas and time to get back to work on the
> cars.
>> I see that Pertronix now makes Ignitor II and III modules for more
> features
>> and protection (in case you leave ignition key on).  However, I don't
> see
>> them in stock anywhere for the TR4A.  Per the Pertronix.com site, the
>> original is LU-142A, II  9LU-142A, and III 7LU-142A.  They are listed
> for
>> sale on that site, but our, now two, big vendors in USA don't have it
>> listed.
>> 
>> Anyone have experience with the II or III unit on a TR3, 3A, 4 or 4A?
> Just
>> curious if they are all sold out.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala FL
>> 61 3A
>> 62 4
>> 67 4A
>> 76 6
>> 81 8
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
> 
> -- 
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com

From fishplate at gmail.com  Tue Dec 29 18:03:12 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 20:03:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pertronix
In-Reply-To: <6595885E-F36A-4E5B-8022-162D6FDF8619@gmail.com>
References: <5d9256e7-350c-b619-3b65-79e2470a7402@verizon.net>
 <6595885E-F36A-4E5B-8022-162D6FDF8619@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COj0LN8M5b2RYoLF36qOigWJpppPwnUAuZHftcg=_J=YA@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 5:46 PM James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> They are even cheaper on Amazon now.  Amazing.

$140 from TRF.  $288 from Amazon.

Not always, I think...

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Dec 29 18:51:56 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 19:51:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 axle problem, continued
Message-ID: <000001d6de4e$5b102b50$113081f0$@ranteer.com>

It is relatively easy to get an undamaged axle out of its vertical link, and
relatively easy to get to all that.  Remove a few bolts, add a few whacks
with a good sized hammer and it falls to the garage floor.

 

Note the attached picture - see the end of the axle?  There is supposed to
be about another (threaded) inch or so.

 

However, when you trash the axle (as in break it) that is a little harder.
A lot harder.  Even my 30 year old son did not have the hammer slinging
talent to break it free.

 

I was at a loss as to what to do when Tony Drews
(https://www.tonydrews.com/) who sold me the replacement axles, suggested I
use a "smokey wrench."  That's a euphemism for applying heat.  So I pulled
out my handy propane torch (every garage should have one) and went to work
burning off grease, etc.  Then I did my best imitation of my son, and after
a few good whacks it dropped to the garage floor.  Thank you Tony!!!

 

So now I'm on to installing those new axles in my very old TR4!

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Dec 29 19:51:54 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 20:51:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle bearing
Message-ID: <000001d6de56$bbde4c70$339ae550$@ranteer.com>

I need that one stupid little part.  Anyone know if you can get one at a
flaps?

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Dec 29 23:22:27 2020
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 00:22:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 front axle bearing
In-Reply-To: <000001d6de56$bbde4c70$339ae550$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d6de56$bbde4c70$339ae550$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <2d9f2575-8562-e2ec-467e-0c2bc34c301d@tonydrews.com>

Timken part numbers for the "cone" (the bearing itself) - I don't have 
marked which is inner and which is outer.

07100 (I'm guessing this is outer, it was cheaper 10 years ago when I 
got pricing)

03062 (I'm guessing this is inner)

Also, just FYI here are the corresponding "cup" numbers - that's the 
press in race:

07210X (possibly outer)

03162 (possibly inner)

A local bearing supply house should be able to get them, possibly a 
FLAPS too.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 12/29/2020 8:51 PM, dave wrote:
>
> I need that one stupid little part.? Anyone know if you can get one at 
> a flaps?
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Wed Dec 30 11:40:21 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (trhouse at columbus.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 18:40:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] Restorer?
Message-ID: <48db01985a5a1e807428d924ec7d11d8fe6e305a@webmail>

Can anyone relate to a Bob Bower restoring British cars?
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Dec 30 21:03:07 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 22:03:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Axles continued
Message-ID: <000501d6df29$d8ffbc20$8aff3460$@ranteer.com>

Now that I have the timkin part numbers, O'Reilly's was able to get them for
me, one day wait.  I pick them up tomorrow.

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Dec 26 11:50:00 2020
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 11:50:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <000501d6dafa$39681550$ac383ff0$@uprichard.net>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4075BA83-FC2D-4510-8444-9999DE89810A@uthscsa.edu>
 <000501d6dafa$39681550$ac383ff0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <62C63DD1-4CBB-47AF-95F3-BD656B8549F2@comcast.net>

Thanks for that Andrew, I don?t want either side fucking this list up. I?ve been here for 24 years and fortunately we self police.

This is an email list so I don?t even like it when it veers towards being a chat line, no finding Waldo crap please, or naming old sayings, that is for chat lines and face book. No car stuff, then stifle yourself.

Merry Christmas and Happy New year
Bud

> On Dec 25, 2020, at 1:12 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:
> 
> As I said, CUT IT OUT !
>  
> Obviously I agree with one of you two, but this is the Triumph chat page for goodness sake.  We need to police our chat page and keep it to the subject on which we are all in agreement ? our lovely old cars.
>  
> Andrew Uprichard
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Cochran, David L
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 2:59 PM
> To: glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>; fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
>  
> Do not make this political. Hope however that you enjoyed the best economy we have had in for many years and one of the lowest employment rates ever for our country plus no wars and some Middle East peace never achieved before.
> 
> 
>> On Dec 25, 2020, at 6:48 AM, glewis999 at aol.com <mailto:glewis999 at aol.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Yes, 
>> Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.
>> 
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com <http://mail.mobile.aol.com/>
>>  
>> On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com <mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com>> wrote: 
>>  
>>> I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 
>>>  
>>> My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 
>>> Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?
>>>  
>>> Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.
>>>  
>>> JVV
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs%20>http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cochran at uthscsa.edu <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cochran at uthscsa.edu>** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net>
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 17:05:49 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 00:05:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak
In-Reply-To: <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>
References: <280070865.4362068.1608900474351.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <280070865.4362068.1608900474351@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4250CA2DF1834CEAB409E5B61BC77B68@VlackTK121647>
 <006d01d6daeb$77b21ea0$67165be0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1019766994.2878184.1609027549907@mail.yahoo.com>

 what Andrew said
Frank
    On Friday, December 25, 2020, 10:27:27 AM PST, auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:  
 
 
Dear glewsis999 at aol.com:

 ?

At a time when we are all suffering from a pandemic and a deeply divided society, this list is a source of escapism - regardless of our political persuasions, I think I am talking on behalf of many people who tune in to this chat page when I say ? CUT IT OUT !!? If you have nothing constructive to say ? say nothing !

 ?

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 8:00 AM
To: glewis999 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

 ?

I wasn?t looking for any political responses to my question. Please keep those to yourself. Not appropriate here.

JVV

?

From: glewis999 at aol.com 

Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 7:47 AM

To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com 

Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net 

Subject: Re: [TR] Timing cover crank seal oil leak

?

Yes, 

Trump is on the way out, great relief to the world.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

?

On Friday, 25 December 2020, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote: 

 ?


I run a thin belt conversion and have an oil leak from the timing chain cover. New seal at rebuild 2 years ago. Leaked from initial startup but now getting worse. I know about speedy sleeves and might try that. 

?

My question is this. Has anyone else experienced excessive leakage while using the thin belt conversion? The Moss instructions imply that the seal rides on the spacer installed behind the damper pulley. 

Has anyone found a double lip seal replacement to the standard supplied seal and if yes do you have a reference P/N?

?

Thanks and Merry Christmas. The New Year has to be better than 2020.

?

JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glewis999 at aol.com

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 17:47:33 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 00:47:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [Fot]  1954 XMAS card
In-Reply-To: <98A76C14-9101-49F3-B705-FBC6EEFD8204@mhc-law.com>
References: <5b5b03da52c4e31261b334b88681ac9c156f44cd@webmail>
 <1712097435.4083423.1608792125192@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020001d6da3c$9caaf1f0$d600d5d0$@bell.net>
 <067982C7-C9EB-4615-9083-D61682D2EBAB@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <1556362120.2878662.1609027682754@mail.yahoo.com>
 <98A76C14-9101-49F3-B705-FBC6EEFD8204@mhc-law.com>
Message-ID: <1774534071.2843316.1609030053376@mail.yahoo.com>

 


    On Saturday, December 26, 2020, 04:36:13 PM PST, John H. Hasty <jhasty at mhc-law.com> wrote:  
 
 Such a pity that Mr. Fawkes? intentions were unsuccessful, It is rumored it was because he relied upon his MG to complete his intentions.?

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2020, at 7:10 PM, Frank Fisher via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



?Jonmacneed to instructed them on how to make tea also.
Frank
On Friday, December 25, 2020, 12:15:40 PM PST, John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:

Tut, tut, tut, Mr. Mace. Never mind. I noted in the article in the latest TVT about 20TS that it?s author identified Sir John Black as Sir Black.

Oh, dear. Sometimes I think a few lessons on how to address titled people is long overdue for our colonial cousins:)

Happy Christmas, everyone!

Jonmac

Vote for Guy Fawkes! The only man who entered Parliament with honest intentions.

> On 24 Dec 2020, at 21:34, <keithstewart at bell.net> <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> o
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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