[TR] TR6 Zenith Stromberg Carbs

[CAROLINE MCGAHEY]

Hi Jim

In the diagram below 10=retaining clip, 11=o-ring, 11a=adjusting screw, 12=needle locking screw, 13=metering needle

You only have 2 1/2 turns from full lean (screwing the adjusting screw all the way onto the needle) to full rich (screwing the adjusting screw all the way out of the needle).
At full lean the adjusting screw will stop turning because it is screwed all the way into the needle, at full rich it will keep turning because it is screwed all the way out of the needle. 

Make sure the needle locking screw is not screwed in far enough to lock the needle into position, but is screwed in far enough into the slot in the top of the needle to keep the needle from rotating. The top of the needle has to be able to slide up and down but must not rotate. The adjusting screw will move the needle up and down as it is screwed into and out of the top of the metering needle. If you have screwed the adjusting screw counter clockwise more than 2 1/2 turns, the adjusting screw is not engaged with the needle - press down really hard with the adjusting tool when you turn clockwise to try and re-engage the adjusting screw with the needle.
 
You should not be pulling hard on the needle or twisting the needle - there are no “spring positions” - you don’t want to twist or break the spring.
With the adjusting screw screwed all the way out and the needle locking screw removed, a gentle pull on the needle should remove the needle from the damper assembly - if it does not come out easily, it may be too stuck to be adjustable - soak it overnight with penetrating oil and try again.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Jack Mc


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Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 15, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Henningsen, James D. <henningj at cf.edu> wrote:
> 
> Ok, it’s been a while since I’ve adjusted the mixture on my ZS 175 CD-2 carbs on my TR6.  I have the adjustable B1AF needles,  removed damper from carb body, removed the fixing screw from the piston damper side.  I insert the special tool into the damper tube to turn the needle assembly and it engages the hex socket hole.  I can rotate left and right but it doesn’t move the height of the needle face on the bottom of the damper no matter which way I turn.    If I pull the needle down from the damper to its lowest spring position and then turn left or right, the needle seat height does move up and down.   I don’t recall having to hold the needle out to adjust mixture.  I also can’t easily find the fully lean or rich stop points easily.  Ten turns seems a bit much.
> 
> Any thoughts greatly appreciated.  Trying to get my refreshed 6 back on the road from a major engine drivetrain upgrade. Thanks I advance 
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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