From ccgunn at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 2 17:12:22 2021 From: ccgunn at sbcglobal.net (David Gunn) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2021 23:12:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of References: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> Hi All - Thanks for the suggestions, they are all greatly appreciated.? I liberally sprayed the offending drum with penetrating oil.? Due to the smoke and ash from the wildfires, I couldn't get back out to the shop for a couple of days.? But, when I did, it popped right off!? I didn't see any signs of massive rust, so I am guessing that it was just old oil, grease and misc road grime.? I will clean everything real well before I put it back together. I then set about removing the axle shafts, as per the Service Instruction Manual for the TR2. (3d Edition, 6th printing).? I am also using the Haynes book for Triumphs. I have the earlier style of TR2 axle.? One interesting item to note:? when removing the nut and washer on the left side, I found 3 shims behind the washer.? They were made from a Budweiser can, so I know that they are not original.? ? Not sure why, but I will probably put them back.? The left side is not the side that was originally leaking. I dismantled the brakes, took out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the axle casing, and expected to be able to just pull the axle shaft out, as the manual says. But nothing budged.? I then pounded a thin paint scraper between the hub and axle casing.? That was the only place that I could see where it could come apart.? It did, and I removed the hub, but no axle shaft.? The oil seal came out with the hub, but the wheel bearings are still attached somehow.? The axle shaft? does spin, and does push in and pull out about 1/4 inch, or less..? I thought the the bearing and seal and hub needed to be pressed onto the axle shaft. I don't remember the specifics of replacing the oil seals previously.? Evidently, I ran into the same problem before, just installed the oil seals, and then reassembled. In looking at the oil seal I just removed, it looks like part of it has never seen any oil.? It is completely dry.? Yes, I have kept the rear end full, and have greased the grease fitting.? Also, it does appear that the wheel bearings have been replaced before (not by me), as they are marked "made in the USA"? The reason I wanted to take the axle shaft out is twofold:? 1)? I like to follow instructions, and that's what the manual said, and 2) I wanted to look at the wheel bearing. So, what am I doing wrong? Why doesn't the axle shaft just slide out, as the manual says?? What am I missing? I have taken some pictures, and have uploaded them to my Flickr site, in an album labeled "TR2".? They are at the end of the album.? I also included pictures of the rear axle drawings and instructions from the manual, plus "Service Diagnosis" (Troubleshooting).. The breather is, and has been, clean. The link to that album is:? TR2 | | | | | | | | | | | TR2 Explore this photo album by David on Flickr! | | | I tried to take pictures of everything, including the axle shaft "pulled out" and "pushed in".? There's also pictures of the Bud shims. I have not attempted to take the right side off.? Just in case I am doing something wrong; although, it is at the point where the axle shaft should just pull out, and it doesn't. A last (for now) interesting note.? I acquired the TR2 from a friend about 1985.? I drove it for about a year, then parked it and raised kids.? I started my restoration about 2002, and finished a couple of years later. As I said before, it has been parked again since about 2011.? Of it's 67 year life, I have owned it for about 36 years, but certainly not driving it. Thank you, in advance, for your help, David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Sep 2 17:50:29 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2021 18:50:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of In-Reply-To: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> References: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Well, I'm not sure about the rear axle, but I'm glad I went to your Flickr album!? You've done a marvelous job, that's a gorgeous car! I'm more familiar with the later axle, I suspect that the bearing is what's holding the axle into the housing.? You could try sticking the hub back on, put a nut on the end and bash on the hub with a rubber mallet or something that won't hurt the hub - maybe a piece of wood and a larger hammer?? This is JUST A GUESS, I'm looking forward to other replies. Regards, Tony Drews On 9/2/2021 6:12 PM, David Gunn wrote: > Hi All - Thanks for the suggestions, they are all greatly > appreciated.? I liberally sprayed the offending drum with penetrating > oil.? Due to the smoke and ash from the wildfires, I couldn't get back > out to the shop for a couple of days.? But, when I did, it popped > right off!? I didn't see any signs of massive rust, so I am guessing > that it was just old oil, grease and misc road grime.? I will clean > everything real well before I put it back together. > > I then set about removing the axle shafts, as per the Service > Instruction Manual for the TR2. (3d Edition, 6th printing).? I am also > using the Haynes book for Triumphs. I have the earlier style of TR2 > axle.? One interesting item to note:? when removing the nut and washer > on the left side, I found 3 shims behind the washer.? They were made > from a Budweiser can, so I know that they are not original. Emoji? Not > sure why, but I will probably put them back.? The left side is not the > side that was originally leaking. > > I dismantled the brakes, took out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the > axle casing, and expected to be able to just pull the axle shaft out, > as the manual says. But nothing budged.? I then pounded a thin paint > scraper between the hub and axle casing.? That was the only place that > I could see where it could come apart.? It did, and I removed the hub, > but no axle shaft.? The oil seal came out with the hub, but the wheel > bearings are still attached somehow.? The axle shaft? does spin, and > does push in and pull out about 1/4 inch, or less..? I thought the the > bearing and seal and hub needed to be pressed onto the axle shaft. > > I don't remember the specifics of replacing the oil seals previously.? > Evidently, I ran into the same problem before, just installed the oil > seals, and then reassembled. > > In looking at the oil seal I just removed, it looks like part of it > has never seen any oil.? It is completely dry.? Yes, I have kept the > rear end full, and have greased the grease fitting.? Also, it does > appear that the wheel bearings have been replaced before (not by me), > as they are marked "made in the USA"? The reason I wanted to take the > axle shaft out is twofold:? 1)? I like to follow instructions, and > that's what the manual said, and 2) I wanted to look at the wheel bearing. > > So, what am I doing wrong? Why doesn't the axle shaft just slide out, > as the manual says?? What am I missing? > > I have taken some pictures, and have uploaded them to my Flickr site, > in an album labeled "TR2".? They are at the end of the album.? I also > included pictures of the rear axle drawings and instructions from the > manual, plus "Service Diagnosis" (Troubleshooting).. The breather is, > and has been, clean. > > The link to that album is: TR2 > > > > > > > > > TR2 > > Explore this photo album by David on Flickr! > > > > I tried to take pictures of everything, including the axle shaft > "pulled out" and "pushed in".? There's also pictures of the Bud shims. > > I have not attempted to take the right side off.? Just in case I am > doing something wrong; although, it is at the point where the axle > shaft should just pull out, and it doesn't. > > A last (for now) interesting note.? I acquired the TR2 from a friend > about 1985.? I drove it for about a year, then parked it and raised > kids.? I started my restoration about 2002, and finished a couple of > years later. As I said before, it has been parked again since about > 2011.? Of it's 67 year life, I have owned it for about 36 years, but > certainly not driving it. > > Thank you, in advance, for your help, > > David > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Thu Sep 2 19:58:39 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 01:58:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of In-Reply-To: References: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: David, I agree with Tony, it appears that the bearing is sticking a bit in the axle housing (which is good). I?d put the hub back on, attach the foot of a puller to the wheel studs and use a slide hammer to knock the assembly toward you. Something like this: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-slide-hammer-flange Best of luck, Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Tony Drews Sent: Thursday, September 2, 2021 5:51 PM To: David Gunn; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of Well, I'm not sure about the rear axle, but I'm glad I went to your Flickr album! You've done a marvelous job, that's a gorgeous car! I'm more familiar with the later axle, I suspect that the bearing is what's holding the axle into the housing. You could try sticking the hub back on, put a nut on the end and bash on the hub with a rubber mallet or something that won't hurt the hub - maybe a piece of wood and a larger hammer? This is JUST A GUESS, I'm looking forward to other replies. Regards, Tony Drews On 9/2/2021 6:12 PM, David Gunn wrote: Hi All - Thanks for the suggestions, they are all greatly appreciated. I liberally sprayed the offending drum with penetrating oil. Due to the smoke and ash from the wildfires, I couldn't get back out to the shop for a couple of days. But, when I did, it popped right off! I didn't see any signs of massive rust, so I am guessing that it was just old oil, grease and misc road grime. I will clean everything real well before I put it back together. I then set about removing the axle shafts, as per the Service Instruction Manual for the TR2. (3d Edition, 6th printing). I am also using the Haynes book for Triumphs. I have the earlier style of TR2 axle. One interesting item to note: when removing the nut and washer on the left side, I found 3 shims behind the washer. They were made from a Budweiser can, so I know that they are not original. [Emoji] Not sure why, but I will probably put them back. The left side is not the side that was originally leaking. I dismantled the brakes, took out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the axle casing, and expected to be able to just pull the axle shaft out, as the manual says. But nothing budged. I then pounded a thin paint scraper between the hub and axle casing. That was the only place that I could see where it could come apart. It did, and I removed the hub, but no axle shaft. The oil seal came out with the hub, but the wheel bearings are still attached somehow. The axle shaft does spin, and does push in and pull out about 1/4 inch, or less.. I thought the the bearing and seal and hub needed to be pressed onto the axle shaft. I don't remember the specifics of replacing the oil seals previously. Evidently, I ran into the same problem before, just installed the oil seals, and then reassembled. In looking at the oil seal I just removed, it looks like part of it has never seen any oil. It is completely dry. Yes, I have kept the rear end full, and have greased the grease fitting. Also, it does appear that the wheel bearings have been replaced before (not by me), as they are marked "made in the USA" The reason I wanted to take the axle shaft out is twofold: 1) I like to follow instructions, and that's what the manual said, and 2) I wanted to look at the wheel bearing. So, what am I doing wrong? Why doesn't the axle shaft just slide out, as the manual says? What am I missing? I have taken some pictures, and have uploaded them to my Flickr site, in an album labeled "TR2". They are at the end of the album. I also included pictures of the rear axle drawings and instructions from the manual, plus "Service Diagnosis" (Troubleshooting).. The breather is, and has been, clean. The link to that album is: TR2 [https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png] TR2 Explore this photo album by David on Flickr! I tried to take pictures of everything, including the axle shaft "pulled out" and "pushed in". There's also pictures of the Bud shims. I have not attempted to take the right side off. Just in case I am doing something wrong; although, it is at the point where the axle shaft should just pull out, and it doesn't. A last (for now) interesting note. I acquired the TR2 from a friend about 1985. I drove it for about a year, then parked it and raised kids. I started my restoration about 2002, and finished a couple of years later. As I said before, it has been parked again since about 2011. Of it's 67 year life, I have owned it for about 36 years, but certainly not driving it. Thank you, in advance, for your help, David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From carlsereda at aol.com Fri Sep 3 00:43:50 2021 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 06:43:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Dixon All British Car Show & Swap Meet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1950309354.2522033.1630651430873@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Listers,This event in California my favoritebecause lots of cars and the Swap Meet which is gettingas rare as 'Lucas smoke'!Hope many of youcan make it!Regards,Carl'63 TR4 since '74 Dixon All British Car Show & Swap Meet Website http://ubscc.org/CarShow.htm ? Contact Tim Waller ? whitemorgan66 at aol.com Location Dixon Fair Grounds, Dixon, CA, USA Date September 19, 2021 The Annual All British Motor Vehicle Show and Swap MeetSeptember 19, 2021 Due to attendance limitations, there will NO day-of Registration Current Covid-19 restrictions prevented us from holding the Dixon Car Show in May of this year, but we are happy to announce that we have secured the date of Sunday, September 19, 2021 at the Dixon Fairgrounds in Dixon, CA! We hope to return to our May date in 2022. Social distancing and wearing of masks for non-vaccinated people may be required by the State and the Fairgrounds which will require us to limit the number of cars which we will be able fit on the fields. We ask that everyone who sees this notice to please help advertise our show by making an announcement at their club meetings, posting the information on club website and talking it up at car gatherings. We will not be mailing out flyers this year. A British Motor Vehicle Tradition Participants? Choice Awards All entries will receive a dash plaque, goody bag and a ballot for voting in the Participants? Choice Awards. This is a show for the pleasure and company of others who share your interest in vintage British machinery. Judging is by popular vote of your peers, each of whom has a vehicle entered in the show. Each entrant receives one ballot and may cast one vote per class. There have been over 35 classes at past shows and classes will again be determined by preregistered vehicles. Three or more of the same vehicle type make a competition class, not including the Winners? Circle entrants. Based on early registration results, classes are created for each major marque, and certain subdivisions within marques. Where there are not sufficient early entries to justify a separate class, entries will be grouped by type of vehicle. Vendors and participants set up at 7:00 AM. Gates open to the public at 8:00 AM. Final registration: 10:00 AM. Voting closes at 12:00 PM. Awards Presentation: 1:30 PM. This is not a ?concours? but a chance for British vehicle lovers to get together, display their vehicles and have a good time. Any vehicle could go home with a trophy. So bring your British ?ride? and enjoy the camaraderie! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davgil at aol.com Fri Sep 3 04:44:12 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 10:44:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions References: <696955153.1297059.1630665852542.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <696955153.1297059.1630665852542@mail.yahoo.com> I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original.? I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin.? It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns.? My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay.? I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there.? The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is.? Any ideas would be appreciated.David Gill1976 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 3 05:19:46 2021 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 07:19:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <696955153.1297059.1630665852542@mail.yahoo.com> References: <696955153.1297059.1630665852542.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <696955153.1297059.1630665852542@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1Mf0mU-1msjE142Re-00gVFu@mrelay.perfora.net> AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm From: davgil at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original.? I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin.? It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns.? My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay.? I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there.? The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is.? Any ideas would be appreciated. David Gill 1976 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png Type: image/png Size: 132329 bytes Desc: not available URL: From davgil at aol.com Fri Sep 3 05:46:24 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (DAVID GILL) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 07:46:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <1Mf0mU-1msjE142Re-00gVFu@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <1Mf0mU-1msjE142Re-00gVFu@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: Thanks Bob. That?s one of the wiring diagrams I have checked. After some more investigation, I believe that the pin (which I have determined is black with a blue tracer) is the horn ground. I assumed that the horns would ground to a tab on the chassis but they seem to ground to the horn relay through the wiring harness. Not what the books or wiring diagrams say, but that?s the case with my TR6 and I believe it is original. If I go to a 4 pin relay, I?ll have to ground the horns separately it seems. Thanks again for the response. David Gill 1976 TR6 Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 3, 2021, at 7:19 AM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > ? > AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY > > > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> > > Bob Danielson > TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm > > From: davgil at aol.com > Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions > > I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original. I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin. It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns. My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay. I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there. The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is. Any ideas would be appreciated. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 3 06:27:20 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 12:27:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <1Mf0mU-1msjE142Re-00gVFu@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <696955153.1297059.1630665852542.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <696955153.1297059.1630665852542@mail.yahoo.com> <1Mf0mU-1msjE142Re-00gVFu@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <36314082.1309000.1630672040656@mail.yahoo.com> The follow-up question is what voltage do you read on the Purple wire when the horn button is pushed?? There could be a poor connection anywhere in that line and at the fuse itself.? Try disconnection and reconnecting everything (that is convenient) in that circuit.? This will scrape off some of the accumulated corrosion and can make things work again. Do the easy stuff first, I always say.? (Sometimes I even follow my advice. ;-) ) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: davgil at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 6:19 am Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY ? ? ?Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm ?From: davgil at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions ?I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original.? I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin.? It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns.? My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay.? I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there.? The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is.? Any ideas would be appreciated. David Gill1976 TR6 ?** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png Type: image/png Size: 132329 bytes Desc: not available URL: From davgil at aol.com Fri Sep 3 06:43:21 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (DAVID GILL) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 08:43:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <36314082.1309000.1630672040656@mail.yahoo.com> References: <36314082.1309000.1630672040656@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39875BDA-66AF-4048-9279-F195F82A60D0@aol.com> Thanks David. You always have good advice. I?m getting about 9 volts on the purple and yellow wire with the bottom pushed. 11.7 volts on the purple with the button pushed. The relay is only operating intermittently now and I am pretty confident it is toes up. I?ve cleaned all of the contacts and tested the horns with direct power. One worked well and I had to disassemble the high tone. Cleaned the points and it appears to be operational now. I?m going to do a bit of cleanup and reassemble it this morning. I?m relatively confident that a new relay will get me done with this little project. Regards, David Gill Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 3, 2021, at 8:27 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > ? > The follow-up question is what voltage do you read on the Purple wire when the horn button is pushed? There could be a poor connection anywhere in that line and at the fuse itself. Try disconnection and reconnecting everything (that is convenient) in that circuit. This will scrape off some of the accumulated corrosion and can make things work again. > > Do the easy stuff first, I always say. (Sometimes I even follow my advice. ;-) ) > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: davgil at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 6:19 am > Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions > > AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY > > > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> > > Bob Danielson > TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm > > From: davgil at aol.com > Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions > > I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original. I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin. It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns. My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay. I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there. The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is. Any ideas would be appreciated. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 3 07:20:17 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 13:20:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <39875BDA-66AF-4048-9279-F195F82A60D0@aol.com> References: <36314082.1309000.1630672040656@mail.yahoo.com> <39875BDA-66AF-4048-9279-F195F82A60D0@aol.com> Message-ID: <1206024202.1314966.1630675217506@mail.yahoo.com> It sounds like you've done your homework and it looks like the relay is faulty.? What happens if you pull the purple/yellow and the purple wires off of the relay and touch them together? The OE metal can relays are a bit pricey but you can get a standard cube relay at your local FLAPS which will work fine.? If you get one of those connect the purple/black and one of the purple wires to pins 85 and 86 (some relays have a diode so connect the purple wire to terminal 86 just in case) and connect the other purple and the purple/yellow wires to terminals 87 and 30. Dave -----Original Message----- From: DAVID GILL To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 7:43 am Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions Thanks David. You always have good advice. I?m getting about 9 volts on the purple and yellow wire with the bottom pushed. 11.7 volts on the purple with the button pushed. The relay is only operating intermittently now and I am pretty confident it is toes up. I?ve cleaned all of the contacts and tested the horns with direct power. One worked well and I had to disassemble the high tone. Cleaned the points and it appears to be operational now. I?m going to do a bit of cleanup and reassemble it this morning. I?m relatively confident that a new relay will get me done with this little project. Regards,?David Gill Sent from my iPhone On Sep 3, 2021, at 8:27 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: ? The follow-up question is what voltage do you read on the Purple wire when the horn button is pushed?? There could be a poor connection anywhere in that line and at the fuse itself.? Try disconnection and reconnecting everything (that is convenient) in that circuit.? This will scrape off some of the accumulated corrosion and can make things work again. Do the easy stuff first, I always say.? (Sometimes I even follow my advice. ;-) ) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: davgil at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 6:19 am Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions #yiv4172296497 #yiv4172296497 -- filtered {}#yiv4172296497 filtered {}#yiv4172296497 p.yiv4172296497MsoNormal, #yiv4172296497 li.yiv4172296497MsoNormal, #yiv4172296497 div.yiv4172296497MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4172296497 a:link, #yiv4172296497 span.yiv4172296497MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4172296497 .yiv4172296497MsoChpDefault {}#yiv4172296497 filtered {}#yiv4172296497 div.yiv4172296497WordSection1 {}#yiv4172296497 AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY ? ?<6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> ?Bob Danielson TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm ?From: davgil at aol.com Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions ?I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original.? I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin.? It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns.? My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay.? I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there.? The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is.? Any ideas would be appreciated. David Gill1976 TR6 ?** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Sep 3 07:27:30 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 09:27:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: <39875BDA-66AF-4048-9279-F195F82A60D0@aol.com> References: <36314082.1309000.1630672040656@mail.yahoo.com> <39875BDA-66AF-4048-9279-F195F82A60D0@aol.com> Message-ID: If you can disassemble the horn, you should be able to disassemble the relay. Try cleaning the points in it. What have you got to lose? On Fri, Sep 3, 2021 at 8:43 AM DAVID GILL wrote: > > Thanks David. You always have good advice. I?m getting about 9 volts on the purple and yellow wire with the bottom pushed. 11.7 volts on the purple with the button pushed. The relay is only operating intermittently now and I am pretty confident it is toes up. I?ve cleaned all of the contacts and tested the horns with direct power. One worked well and I had to disassemble the high tone. Cleaned the points and it appears to be operational now. I?m going to do a bit of cleanup and reassemble it this morning. I?m relatively confident that a new relay will get me done with this little project. Regards, > David Gill > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 3, 2021, at 8:27 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > ? > The follow-up question is what voltage do you read on the Purple wire when the horn button is pushed? There could be a poor connection anywhere in that line and at the fuse itself. Try disconnection and reconnecting everything (that is convenient) in that circuit. This will scrape off some of the accumulated corrosion and can make things work again. > > Do the easy stuff first, I always say. (Sometimes I even follow my advice. ;-) ) > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: davgil at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 6:19 am > Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions > > AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY > > > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> > > Bob Danielson > TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm > > From: davgil at aol.com > Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions > > I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original. I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin. It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns. My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay. I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there. The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is. Any ideas would be appreciated. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From davgil at aol.com Fri Sep 3 09:22:43 2021 From: davgil at aol.com (DAVID GILL) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 11:22:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <13ADC9A2-2631-43C0-A42D-B7304567298A@aol.com> Might try that. You are right, nothing to lose. Got the horn back together and it has a good solid tone. Only rivets I had were too short or too long (as usual) so I have it together with machine screws until I can substitute rivets of the correct size. Thanks for all of the suggestions. David Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 3, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > ?If you can disassemble the horn, you should be able to disassemble the > relay. Try cleaning the points in it. What have you got to lose? > >> On Fri, Sep 3, 2021 at 8:43 AM DAVID GILL wrote: >> >> Thanks David. You always have good advice. I?m getting about 9 volts on the purple and yellow wire with the bottom pushed. 11.7 volts on the purple with the button pushed. The relay is only operating intermittently now and I am pretty confident it is toes up. I?ve cleaned all of the contacts and tested the horns with direct power. One worked well and I had to disassemble the high tone. Cleaned the points and it appears to be operational now. I?m going to do a bit of cleanup and reassemble it this morning. I?m relatively confident that a new relay will get me done with this little project. Regards, >> David Gill >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 3, 2021, at 8:27 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: >> >> ? >> The follow-up question is what voltage do you read on the Purple wire when the horn button is pushed? There could be a poor connection anywhere in that line and at the fuse itself. Try disconnection and reconnecting everything (that is convenient) in that circuit. This will scrape off some of the accumulated corrosion and can make things work again. >> >> Do the easy stuff first, I always say. (Sometimes I even follow my advice. ;-) ) >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> >> To: davgil at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Fri, Sep 3, 2021 6:19 am >> Subject: Re: [TR] Horn relay questions >> >> AAW Wiring diagrams are per model year and very accurate and it shows the horn relay as being 4 pin fed by P, PB and PY >> >> >> <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> >> >> Bob Danielson >> TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets >> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm >> >> From: davgil at aol.com >> Sent: Friday, September 3, 2021 6:47 AM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Horn relay questions >> >> I have a 5 pin horn relay on my 1976 TR6 that appears to be original. I am only getting 9 volts on the purple/yellow output to the horns so I am assuming a bad relay, but I cannot find the purpose of the 5th pin. It is not the horn ground from the push button, input from the fuse box or output to the horns. My wiring diagrams all show only 4 pins for the relay. I cannot read the pin identifiers so there is no help there. The wire is black with a tracer color that is faded so I cannot determine what it is. Any ideas would be appreciated. >> David Gill >> 1976 TR6 >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com >> <6B8E42070E7949809DC5BA176C17B02E.png> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Sep 3 09:42:41 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2021 15:42:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of In-Reply-To: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> References: <383532478.1756208.1630624342485.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <383532478.1756208.1630624342485@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: David- You might be able to use a short piece of PVC pipe to fit against the flange, and then pull the axle&bearing out against that pipe with the castellated nut and large washer. Would at least give you some control over the operation. Nice work there! Randy ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of David Gunn Sent: Thursday, September 2, 2021 6:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 Rear Brake Drum/Axle Success - Kind Of Hi All - Thanks for the suggestions, they are all greatly appreciated. I liberally sprayed the offending drum with penetrating oil. Due to the smoke and ash from the wildfires, I couldn't get back out to the shop for a couple of days. But, when I did, it popped right off! I didn't see any signs of massive rust, so I am guessing that it was just old oil, grease and misc road grime. I will clean everything real well before I put it back together. I then set about removing the axle shafts, as per the Service Instruction Manual for the TR2. (3d Edition, 6th printing). I am also using the Haynes book for Triumphs. I have the earlier style of TR2 axle. One interesting item to note: when removing the nut and washer on the left side, I found 3 shims behind the washer. They were made from a Budweiser can, so I know that they are not original. [Emoji] Not sure why, but I will probably put them back. The left side is not the side that was originally leaking. I dismantled the brakes, took out the 4 bolts holding the hub to the axle casing, and expected to be able to just pull the axle shaft out, as the manual says. But nothing budged. I then pounded a thin paint scraper between the hub and axle casing. That was the only place that I could see where it could come apart. It did, and I removed the hub, but no axle shaft. The oil seal came out with the hub, but the wheel bearings are still attached somehow. The axle shaft does spin, and does push in and pull out about 1/4 inch, or less.. I thought the the bearing and seal and hub needed to be pressed onto the axle shaft. I don't remember the specifics of replacing the oil seals previously. Evidently, I ran into the same problem before, just installed the oil seals, and then reassembled. In looking at the oil seal I just removed, it looks like part of it has never seen any oil. It is completely dry. Yes, I have kept the rear end full, and have greased the grease fitting. Also, it does appear that the wheel bearings have been replaced before (not by me), as they are marked "made in the USA" The reason I wanted to take the axle shaft out is twofold: 1) I like to follow instructions, and that's what the manual said, and 2) I wanted to look at the wheel bearing. So, what am I doing wrong? Why doesn't the axle shaft just slide out, as the manual says? What am I missing? I have taken some pictures, and have uploaded them to my Flickr site, in an album labeled "TR2". They are at the end of the album. I also included pictures of the rear axle drawings and instructions from the manual, plus "Service Diagnosis" (Troubleshooting).. The breather is, and has been, clean. The link to that album is: TR2 [https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/flickr.png] TR2 Explore this photo album by David on Flickr! I tried to take pictures of everything, including the axle shaft "pulled out" and "pushed in". There's also pictures of the Bud shims. I have not attempted to take the right side off. Just in case I am doing something wrong; although, it is at the point where the axle shaft should just pull out, and it doesn't. A last (for now) interesting note. I acquired the TR2 from a friend about 1985. I drove it for about a year, then parked it and raised kids. I started my restoration about 2002, and finished a couple of years later. As I said before, it has been parked again since about 2011. Of it's 67 year life, I have owned it for about 36 years, but certainly not driving it. Thank you, in advance, for your help, David -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat Sep 4 15:18:41 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2021 14:18:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a flasher unit Message-ID: My Car has flasher LUCAS 8FL 5048A 12 V 3.6A which looks like I need to replace. I'm looking for a modern equivalent local in USA. I really don't want a NOS one. I want to get away with the bi-metal strip thing. This unit has 2 pins but I'm aware modern units have a 3rd pin for a ground wire. My car's turn signals dont blink at slow engine speed. My hazards work well so Im not assuming I have an earth issue, Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 5 05:46:02 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2021 11:46:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Looking for a flasher unit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <590241710.1381156.1630842362936@mail.yahoo.com> I put an electronic flasher in my TR6 many years ago.? I found it on the rack at a local auto parts store.? Just check the labels. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs ; TTSCC at googlegroups.com Sent: Sat, Sep 4, 2021 4:18 pm Subject: [TR] Looking for a flasher unit My Car has flasher LUCAS? 8FL 5048A 12 V 3.6A? which looks like I need to replace.I'm looking?for a modern equivalent local in USA.I really don't?want a NOS one. I want to get away with the bi-metal strip thing. This?unit has 2 pins but I'm aware modern units have a 3rd pin for a ground wire.My car's turn signals dont blink?at slow engine speed. My hazards work well so Im?not?assuming I have an earth issue,Sujit-- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdqtr6 at comcast.net Sun Sep 5 06:12:07 2021 From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6) Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2021 08:12:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a flasher unit In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Moss part # 141-747 for the princely sum of $14.99 it even includes a mounting bracket.?Sent from my Galaxy -------- Original message --------From: Sujit Roy Date: 9/4/21 5:20 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Triumphs , TTSCC at googlegroups.com Subject: [TR] Looking for a flasher unit My Car has flasher LUCAS? 8FL 5048A 12 V 3.6A? which looks like I need to replace.I'm looking?for a modern equivalent local in USA.I really don't?want a NOS one. I want to get away with the bi-metal strip thing. This?unit has 2 pins but I'm aware modern units have a 3rd pin for a ground wire.My car's turn signals dont blink?at slow engine speed. My hazards work well so Im?not?assuming I have an earth issue,Sujit-- Sujit RoyCupertino, Californiahttps://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Mon Sep 6 15:13:34 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2021 21:13:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke Message-ID: Hi list, I?m replacing u-joints in the rear axles (TR4A). On one end I can slip two of the caps in by hand (one on the flange, one on the yoke). Anyone here think I could get by here with some Loctite or similar to hold the cap in place? Or am I looking for a replacement axle? This is not a track car, but I prioritize reliability. Thanks, Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Sep 6 16:51:22 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2021 22:51:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cliff I had that same issue on my TR6, I wound up just getting replacement half shafts. I would not try loctite, but maybe a driveshaft company is near you that could get it back to an interference fit. In my case I didn?t have any local place to try so went the replacement route. Randy From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Sep 7 09:42:05 2021 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2021 08:42:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50753072.549215.1631029325198@connect.xfinity.com> If you check a Triumph repair manual, the method of replacing the u-joint is by holding the yoke in your hand and tapping the shaft with a soft mallet. Of course the retaining clips are removed. The caps should come out fairly easily. The interference between the cap and yoke is minimal. I've used this method and was surprised of the ease. I'd always pressed or used a more aggressive process in the past. However, the yoke can wear and then the caps start to rotate, causing more wear. Then the yoke should be replaced. It's a good idea to index the caps with paint or something, to monitor if they rotate. Then it's easy to check when your greasing the driveline and inspecting the u-joints. In any case, have your drive shaft checked by an expert when in doubt. Dave H. > On 09/06/2021 2:13 PM Cliff Hansen wrote: > > > > Hi list, > > > I?m replacing u-joints in the rear axles (TR4A). On one end I can slip two of the caps in by hand (one on the flange, one on the yoke). > > > Anyone here think I could get by here with some Loctite or similar to hold the cap in place? Or am I looking for a replacement axle? > > > This is not a track car, but I prioritize reliability. > > > Thanks, > > > Cliff > > > > Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Sep 7 09:55:30 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2021 10:55:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke In-Reply-To: <50753072.549215.1631029325198@connect.xfinity.com> References: <50753072.549215.1631029325198@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <001501d7a400$c92c5500$5b84ff00$@ranteer.com> Might want to have the driveshaft balanced From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE Sent: Tuesday, September 7, 2021 10:42 AM To: Cliff Hansen ; list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke If you check a Triumph repair manual, the method of replacing the u-joint is by holding the yoke in your hand and tapping the shaft with a soft mallet. Of course the retaining clips are removed. The caps should come out fairly easily. The interference between the cap and yoke is minimal. I've used this method and was surprised of the ease. I'd always pressed or used a more aggressive process in the past. However, the yoke can wear and then the caps start to rotate, causing more wear. Then the yoke should be replaced. It's a good idea to index the caps with paint or something, to monitor if they rotate. Then it's easy to check when your greasing the driveline and inspecting the u-joints. In any case, have your drive shaft checked by an expert when in doubt. Dave H. On 09/06/2021 2:13 PM Cliff Hansen > wrote: Hi list, I?m replacing u-joints in the rear axles (TR4A). On one end I can slip two of the caps in by hand (one on the flange, one on the yoke). Anyone here think I could get by here with some Loctite or similar to hold the cap in place? Or am I looking for a replacement axle? This is not a track car, but I prioritize reliability. Thanks, Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue Sep 7 15:42:38 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2021 17:42:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacing u-joint: loose caps in yoke In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've made shims with beer cans before, but it's probably not as good as a proper yoke replacement. I can't remember if it lasted very long or not. On Mon, Sep 6, 2021 at 5:14 PM Cliff Hansen wrote: > > Hi list, > > > > I?m replacing u-joints in the rear axles (TR4A). On one end I can slip two of the caps in by hand (one on the flange, one on the yoke). > > > > Anyone here think I could get by here with some Loctite or similar to hold the cap in place? Or am I looking for a replacement axle? > > > > This is not a track car, but I prioritize reliability. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Cliff > > > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com From lee at automate-it.com Tue Sep 7 17:32:59 2021 From: lee at automate-it.com (lee at automate-it.com) Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2021 18:32:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] London Barn Find - at least one Stag... Message-ID: <0087005aba0379af7d2b603e417a030b@automate-it.com> I ran across this interesting video - recorded just a few days ago - reporting on the "London Barn Find". Interesting stuff! A fair number of MBs, Beemers and Porches, a bunch of MGBs and at least one Stag that I saw. I slowed down the YouTube playback to 0.5 just to get a better look at the toys. I'd love to get more about the story of where these came from and why they're there! see https://youtu.be/T_KJwtCcPIo Lee From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat Sep 11 10:10:53 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2021 11:10:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap References: Message-ID: TR4A: Can the Stromberg Z175 be replaced easily with the SU HS6? Any hints or tips appreciated. Thx, Bill B Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns From keithstewart at bell.net Sat Sep 11 13:05:19 2021 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2021 15:05:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <21d001d7a73f$f7336dc0$e59a4940$@bell.net> The HS6 carbs were standard on later TR4As. I have them on my 62 TR4 as well. Installation should be pretty straight forward. The only issue may be the linkage but since the carbs were used on later TR4As, you should be able to locate the necessary bits. If you need some pics, just let me know. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher Sent: September 11, 2021 12:11 PM To: Randall Subject: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap TR4A: Can the Stromberg Z175 be replaced easily with the SU HS6? Any hints or tips appreciated. Thx, Bill B Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 11 15:26:55 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2021 17:26:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap In-Reply-To: <21d001d7a73f$f7336dc0$e59a4940$@bell.net> References: <21d001d7a73f$f7336dc0$e59a4940$@bell.net> Message-ID: <002601d7a753$bf59b350$3e0d19f0$@uprichard.net> Bill: I put SU HS6's on my TR3 so I guess it could be done on a TR4A. Like Keith says, I imagine the linkage would be the biggest issue, but in my case I converted to a cable mechanism. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of keithstewart at bell.net Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2021 3:05 PM To: 'bill beecher' ; 'Randall' Subject: Re: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap The HS6 carbs were standard on later TR4As. I have them on my 62 TR4 as well. Installation should be pretty straight forward. The only issue may be the linkage but since the carbs were used on later TR4As, you should be able to locate the necessary bits. If you need some pics, just let me know. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher Sent: September 11, 2021 12:11 PM To: Randall Subject: [TR] Strindberg/SU swap TR4A: Can the Stromberg Z175 be replaced easily with the SU HS6? Any hints or tips appreciated. Thx, Bill B Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Sep 12 12:29:30 2021 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 18:29:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Z175 Strombergs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1100027094.747812.1631471370789@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Listers,I've never seen a performance comparison between SUs and Strombergs.. anyone?I did send Joe Curto (in NY) a pair of SU carb bodies (from my '63 Volvo 122S) and a pair of Stromberg carb bodies from my '63 TR4 for reshafting. To save expense I had stripped them down totally and upon their return with the new shaft bushings I rebuilt them.The whole time I was trying to figure out which was a better carburettor.They both had same build quality (IMO) and just cannot say one is better than the other..which leads me to my final thought Bill - why not just rebuild your Strommies? (Or have Joe Curto, Inc., or one of the other reputable shops do them) Regards,Carl '63 TR4 since '74 TR4A: Can the Stromberg Z175 be replaced easily with the SU HS6?? Any hints or tips appreciated.? Thx, Bill B -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 14:51:21 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 16:51:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan Message-ID: Hey all ~ A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- ) I don't have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on my TR6, using other sealants. Thanks for any help. Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryel at mac.com Sun Sep 12 15:12:54 2021 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 14:12:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <443E86A5-212C-4E10-8B8F-76679047E879@mac.com> Would some heat melt some of that sealant, without lighting the engine on fire of course? Use a heat gun not a touch. Otherwise, or in addition to that, I?d think a thin putty knife and a hammer to tap along the seam may be your best bet to break that seal and not mangle the pan trying to pry it off. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Rye > On Sep 12, 2021, at 1:51 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > > Hey all ~ > > A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right > Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on > "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- ) I don't > have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. > I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on my TR6, > using other sealants. > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 15:14:56 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 17:14:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <443E86A5-212C-4E10-8B8F-76679047E879@mac.com> References: <443E86A5-212C-4E10-8B8F-76679047E879@mac.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Rye. I?ll give the heat gun a try? Dave On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 5:12 PM Rye Livingston wrote: > Would some heat melt some of that sealant, without lighting the engine on > fire of course? Use a heat gun not a touch. > > Otherwise, or in addition to that, I?d think a thin putty knife and a > hammer to tap along the seam may be your best bet to break that seal and > not mangle the pan trying to pry it off. > > Good luck and let us know how it goes. > > Rye > > On Sep 12, 2021, at 1:51 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > > Hey all ~ > > A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right > Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on > "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- ) I don't > have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. > I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on my TR6, > using other sealants. > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ryel at mac.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 15:48:37 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 17:48:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <1BBD237B-D40A-494F-AFF9-879D67535142@hxcore.ol> References: <1BBD237B-D40A-494F-AFF9-879D67535142@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: Thanks, Jerry; There is remarkably little space to maneuver, especially while I'm lying on my back. I have tried using a heat gun and, while the theory was sound, in practice the engine block is a HUGE heat sink. Getting a putty knife to even get a tiny "foothold" has been a big challenge, as there aren't that many places where a hand holding a putty knife can reach up to the lip of the oil pan. I haven't [yet] even been able to penetrate the mating surfaces with a razor blade. In the future, I will think twice before using the Right Stuff on an oil pan. If I ever need to remove it, I'll remember it's quite the chore! Dave On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 5:36 PM jerry van vlack wrote: > I like the Right Stuff for this very reason but yes it can be hard to > remove parts sealed with it. Try a thin stiff putty knife along the seam > slowly working it along until you get some movement where you can get some > leverage. > > JVV > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows > > > > *From: *David Friedlander > *Sent: *Sunday, September 12, 2021 5:01 PM > *To: *TR3 Triumphs ; New England Triumphs > > *Subject: *[TR] Stuck Oil Pan > > > > Hey all ~ > > > > A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right > > Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on > > "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- ) I don't > > have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. > > I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on my TR6, > > using other sealants. > > Thanks for any help. > > > > Dave > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Sep 12 16:03:04 2021 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 17:03:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Permatex is a pretty reputable company. Perhaps a call or email to their tech service team might give some good tips? On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 3:52 PM David Friedlander wrote: > Hey all ~ > > A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right > Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on > "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- ) I don't > have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. > I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on my TR6, > using other sealants. > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sun Sep 12 16:35:03 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2021 18:35:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <84488bec-e3a8-d915-7eeb-59fabaaf92fd@verizon.net> so you siliconed your pan in place? yep...will be a bitch. As you mentioned little to no room...? you can use a paint can opener...looks like a beer bottle opener at one end, and a tiny crowbar at the other. You can use a piece of wood ( suggest a 1x2" piece of oak, any big box store) wedged between frame and the back side of the opener as you wiggle the mini crowbar end? into the groove between pan and block, working your way around little by little ... using the wood the force the crowbar end into the groove. option 2...? use the wood and a heavy trapezoid shaped utility knife blade (no handle) and wedge the blade in to cut the silicone. (be prepared to break a few tips so have a couple on hand) Next build.... gasket on a very flat table, silicone on the gasket,,,then gently sit the pan on the gasket and let it sit to set up.? This leave a flexible and very flat surface. Blue Hylomar on the gasket to block surface, then torque to spec. EASY to remove and should never leak?? BTDT for 40 years now or 10's of cars with none ever leaking. ptegler On 9/12/2021 6:03 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > Permatex is a pretty reputable company.? Perhaps a call or email to > their tech service team might give some good tips? > > On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 3:52 PM David Friedlander > wrote: > > Hey all ~ > > A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan?on my TR3 using > "The Right > Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any > ideas on > "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- )? > I don't > have the benefit?of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering. > I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan?on > my TR6, > using other sealants. > Thanks for any help. > > Dave > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autoxteam.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Mon Sep 13 12:11:00 2021 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 18:11:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan Message-ID: > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 ________________________________ [https://secureimages.mcafee.com/common/affiliateImages/mfe/logo.png] Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 14:12:19 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 15:12:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My formula for the stamped pieces, oil pan & timing chain cover, is to use RTV on the pan side after a bit of smoothing the bolt holes. Then the gasket, followed by Permatex Aviation against the block, works a treat, easy off. All the best, Bill B TS30800L Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away.... Mearns On Sep 13, 2021, at 1:11 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote: ? > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:17:02 2021 From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 17:17:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E8DEEC0F1B2944E8B6353DEF0D671E75.png Type: image/png Size: 140 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Sep 13 15:30:34 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 17:30:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <67A37839-D3DE-4FFA-BEDD-3610D4F09463@fuse.net> Same good experience with the right stuff on my overdrive. No leaks so far since last year. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 13, 2021, at 5:17 PM, jerry van vlack wrote: > > ? > Not my experience at all. Yes a bit tough to remove (in my case the timing chain cover) but everything cleaned well using a single edge razor blade and some solvent. I had leaks with Hylomar but very limited leaks with The Right Stuff after 2 years. As they say your results may be different but I?m never changing back to anything else. I also used it on my transmission rebuild and on the OD adapter plate which always leaked in the past. Again after 2 years very little leakage and that?s an accomplishment on a TR. I?ve been at this gig for almost 53 years and happy to have found something that works for me. > JVV > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > From: Peter Arakelian > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan > > > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? > > Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. > > Peter Arakelian > 1971 TR6 > > > > > Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 15:54:13 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 17:54:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <67A37839-D3DE-4FFA-BEDD-3610D4F09463@fuse.net> References: <67A37839-D3DE-4FFA-BEDD-3610D4F09463@fuse.net> Message-ID: Well, if you ever do have leaks or if you need to replace your oil pump or for whatever reason you need to remove your oil pan after having sealed it with The Right Stuff, I wish you better luck than I'm having. I've tried chisels, razors, heat, prybars and nothing has yet budged it. Only the front of the pan is reasonably accessible. Every other side of the pan is highly/ closely "protected" by the surrounding components. I'd use a flamethrower but..... WHo needs pan bolts!? Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 5:31 PM Dave Connitt wrote: > Same good experience with the right stuff on my overdrive. No leaks so far > since last year. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 13, 2021, at 5:17 PM, jerry van vlack > wrote: > > ? > > Not my experience at all. Yes a bit tough to remove (in my case the timing > chain cover) but everything cleaned well using a single edge razor blade > and some solvent. I had leaks with Hylomar but very limited leaks with The > Right Stuff after 2 years. As they say your results may be different but > I?m never changing back to anything else. I also used it on my transmission > rebuild and on the OD adapter plate which always leaked in the past. Again > after 2 years very little leakage and that?s an accomplishment on a TR. > I?ve been at this gig for almost 53 years and happy to have found something > that works for me. > > JVV > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows > > > > *From: *Peter Arakelian > *Sent: *Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM > *To: *triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[TR] Stuck Oil Pan > > > > > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I > need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to > remove the oil pan without destroying it? > > > > Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will > be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. > > > > Peter Arakelian > > 1971 TR6 > > > > > > > > > Scanned by McAfee > > and confirmed virus-free. > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 17:35:54 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 23:35:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1327938013.3167482.1631576154713@mail.yahoo.com> i second the use of hylomar.i use a silicone (permatex) to first "glue the gasket to pan. one the gasket is mated to the pan i set it down on a flat surface like glass and leave it overnight. i find that this takes up any of the undulations of the pan.i then use hylomar between the adhered gasket and the motor.i use a a couple of all thread studs about 2" long each side of the motor as temporary guides to help bring the pan into the correct place. Frank On Monday, September 13, 2021, 11:11:37 AM PDT, Peter Arakelian wrote: > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? ? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff.? When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean.? Use Hylomar next time. ? Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 | | Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Mon Sep 13 17:39:05 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 19:39:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <1327938013.3167482.1631576154713@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1327938013.3167482.1631576154713@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Frank. Hindsight is often 20/20. I know what to do in the future, I'm just not sure what to do in the present... Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 7:36 PM Frank Fisher wrote: > i second the use of hylomar. > i use a silicone (permatex) to first "glue the gasket to pan. one the > gasket is mated to the pan i set it down on a flat surface like glass and > leave it overnight. i find that this takes up any of the undulations of the > pan. > i then use hylomar between the adhered gasket and the motor. > i use a a couple of all thread studs about 2" long each side of the motor > as temporary guides to help bring the pan into the correct place. > > Frank > > > > On Monday, September 13, 2021, 11:11:37 AM PDT, Peter Arakelian < > peterara at msn.com> wrote: > > > > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I > need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to > remove the oil pan without destroying it? > > > > Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will > be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. > > > > Peter Arakelian > > 1971 TR6 > > > ------------------------------ > > Scanned > by McAfee > > and confirmed virus-free. > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 18:08:55 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 00:08:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: <1327938013.3167482.1631576154713@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2009942650.2783241.1631578135996@mail.yahoo.com> i know.the only thing i can think of is finding a small sharp object like a cut down putty knife or similar.its going to take a lot of adult beverage and anglo saxon words.what about having your local windshield replacement guys try using the oscillating saw cut through most of the silicone. they are kinda vertical with a 90 degree cutter. it can get you down both sides and then maybe you can pry the front and back.it may mean you have to trash the existing pan and buy a replacement. ? On Monday, September 13, 2021, 04:39:31 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: Thanks, Frank. Hindsight is often 20/20. I know what to do in?the future, I'm just not sure what to do in the present... Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 7:36 PM Frank Fisher wrote: i second the use of hylomar.i use a silicone (permatex) to first "glue the gasket to pan. one the gasket is mated to the pan i set it down on a flat surface like glass and leave it overnight. i find that this takes up any of the undulations of the pan.i then use hylomar between the adhered gasket and the motor.i use a a couple of all thread studs about 2" long each side of the motor as temporary guides to help bring the pan into the correct place. Frank On Monday, September 13, 2021, 11:11:37 AM PDT, Peter Arakelian wrote: > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? ? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff.? When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean.? Use Hylomar next time. ? Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 | | Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Sep 13 18:13:14 2021 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2021 20:13:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> Now here's a question - Which "Hylomar"? There are a number of different part numbers. https://hylomar.com/en/products/ It sort of reminds me of when I go to the local NAPA store and there are 55 million different varieties of Loctite, Permatex, etc. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 _____ Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 18:57:14 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 00:57:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> References: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> Message-ID: <1902298950.3174381.1631581034814@mail.yahoo.com> universal blue Frank On Monday, September 13, 2021, 05:32:02 PM PDT, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: Now here?s a question ? Which ?Hylomar?? There are a number of different part numbers. ? https://hylomar.com/en/products/ ? It sort of reminds me of when I go to the local NAPA store and there are 55 million different varieties of Loctite, Permatex, etc. ? ? Alex Thomson ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan ? > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? ? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff.? When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean.? Use Hylomar next time. ? Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 ? | | Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 13 19:40:01 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 01:40:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: <1327938013.3167482.1631576154713@mail.yahoo.com> <2009942650.2783241.1631578135996@mail.yahoo.com> <690280392.2791786.1631579773071@mail.yahoo.com> <1804512382.3174212.1631580982983@mail.yahoo.com> <57985297.2785635.1631581753066@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <218148944.3186901.1631583601747@mail.yahoo.com> some one posted a site recently of a guy who is selling tons of Triumph parts. most in the most singular fashion.crankshaftcam shaftrocker assemblyetcbut i cant find the link right nowanyone remember? On Monday, September 13, 2021, 06:16:25 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: So I see. And they don?t give ?em away, do they? ? On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 9:09 PM Frank Fisher wrote: they come up often Triumph TR3, TR4, Original Engine Oil Pan, !! | eBay | | | | $109.99 | | | | | | | Triumph TR3, TR4, Original Engine Oil Pan, !! | eBay Listed for a Triumph TR4 or TR3, is an original engine oil pan. Pan is leak free. Drain plug is firm in the bung... | | | On Monday, September 13, 2021, 06:01:54 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: ?You think somebody would have an ?extra oilpan?? As I recall, they?re not available anymore? On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 8:56 PM Frank Fisher wrote: nah! its not air tight.and we use silicone to Glue glass on to the outside of sky scrapers. it has a contact adhesion of around 100 psi. maybe a cut off grinder with a guard for just a few inches. then get a pry bar in and slowly work around.?once you get an opening in the flange of the pan....maybe..just maybe you can chase it around with a wood chisel. On Monday, September 13, 2021, 05:48:56 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: Me either. Too much opportunity for an 'oops!' in tight quarters. I certainly never imagined it would come to this! I even dreamed?of fitting-up an air pressure hose to the drain opening and?pumping in some air. I wonder if the system is airtight. Hmmmm.... On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 8:36 PM Frank Fisher wrote: yes, but it took me 2 shots to get there.im thinking if you cut the sides you may be able to get a pry bar in there and force the pan down 1 inch at a time.if you just use an angle grinder and cut the pan off at the top lip, getting to the part that stays stuck to the block gets easier.i just not excited at the thought of an angle grinder On Monday, September 13, 2021, 05:18:38 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: That may be my most "honest assessment" I've received yet, Frank.?Cut the %^&*$# thing off and start over! But, I'd suspect, that even getting?the remaining lip of the pan off the block will be a major effort.? I might as well have used SuperGLue! Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 8:08 PM Frank Fisher wrote: i know.the only thing i can think of is finding a small sharp object like a cut down putty knife or similar.its going to take a lot of adult beverage and anglo saxon words.what about having your local windshield replacement guys try using the oscillating saw cut through most of the silicone. they are kinda vertical with a 90 degree cutter. it can get you down both sides and then maybe you can pry the front and back.it may mean you have to trash the existing pan and buy a replacement. ? On Monday, September 13, 2021, 04:39:31 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: Thanks, Frank. Hindsight is often 20/20. I know what to do in?the future, I'm just not sure what to do in the present... Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 7:36 PM Frank Fisher wrote: i second the use of hylomar.i use a silicone (permatex) to first "glue the gasket to pan. one the gasket is mated to the pan i set it down on a flat surface like glass and leave it overnight. i find that this takes up any of the undulations of the pan.i then use hylomar between the adhered gasket and the motor.i use a a couple of all thread studs about 2" long each side of the motor as temporary guides to help bring the pan into the correct place. Frank On Monday, September 13, 2021, 11:11:37 AM PDT, Peter Arakelian wrote: > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? ? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff.? When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean.? Use Hylomar next time. ? Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 | | Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1631580950349blob.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 742498 bytes Desc: not available URL: From PeterAra at msn.com Mon Sep 13 20:14:06 2021 From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 02:14:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> References: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> Message-ID: "M" or "AF" From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 5:13 PM To: 'Peter Arakelian' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan Now here's a question - Which "Hylomar"? There are a number of different part numbers. https://hylomar.com/en/products/ It sort of reminds me of when I go to the local NAPA store and there are 55 million different varieties of Loctite, Permatex, etc. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 ________________________________ [https://secureimages.mcafee.com/common/affiliateImages/mfe/logo.png] Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. ________________________________ [https://secureimages.mcafee.com/common/affiliateImages/mfe/logo.png] Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Tue Sep 14 13:54:09 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 15:54:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> Message-ID: My thanks to all who provided insights and "next time" ideas for my "stick" TR3 oil pan. I am happy to report [finally] success! The ingredients for this success were: - Not giving up - A loooooonnnnng, large, flat-blade screwdriver - A BFH - And a creative angle/approach for the above. tools, to reach the front lip of the pan The only casualty of this struggle is the front aluminum sealing block, heavily dinged by the above-mentioned screwdriver. Though the part is NLS by the usual sources, I believe I have found one on eBay. Now, let's try this again. On to the Blue Hylomar! Thanks again to all who responded! Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 10:18 PM Peter Arakelian wrote: > ?M? or ?AF? > > > > *From:* Alex & Janet Thomson > *Sent:* Monday, September 13, 2021 5:13 PM > *To:* 'Peter Arakelian' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan > > > > Now here?s a question ? Which ?Hylomar?? There are a number of different > part numbers. > > > > https://hylomar.com/en/products/ > > > > > It sort of reminds me of when I go to the local NAPA store and there are > 55 million different varieties of Loctite, Permatex, etc. > > > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Peter Arakelian > *Sent:* Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM > *To:* 'triumphs at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* [TR] Stuck Oil Pan > > > > > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I > need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to > remove the oil pan without destroying it? > > > > Why I never use and hate Right Stuff. When you do get the pan off it will > be a bitch getting the surfaces clean. Use Hylomar next time. > > > > Peter Arakelian > > 1971 TR6 > > > ------------------------------ > > > > > Scanned by McAfee > > and confirmed virus-free. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > > Scanned by McAfee > > and confirmed virus-free. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 14 17:39:59 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2021 23:39:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan In-Reply-To: References: <005c01d7a8fd$4f8ecd70$eeac6850$@charter.net> Message-ID: <794169486.89043.1631662799348@mail.yahoo.com> whooooooo hooooooogo blue Frank On Tuesday, September 14, 2021, 12:55:14 PM PDT, David Friedlander wrote: My thanks to all who provided insights and "next time" ideas for my "stick"?TR3 oil pan. I am happy to report [finally] success! The ingredients for this success were:- Not giving up- A loooooonnnnng, large, flat-blade screwdriver- A BFH- And a creative angle/approach for the above.? ? ?tools, to reach the front lip of the pan The only casualty of this struggle is the front aluminum sealing block,heavily dinged?by the above-mentioned screwdriver. Though the part?is NLS by the usual sources, I believe I have found one on eBay. Now, let's try this again. On to the Blue Hylomar! Thanks again to all who responded! Dave On Mon, Sep 13, 2021 at 10:18 PM Peter Arakelian wrote: ?M? or ?AF? ? From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 5:13 PM To: 'Peter Arakelian' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan ? Now here?s a question ? Which ?Hylomar?? There are a number of different part numbers. ? https://hylomar.com/en/products/ ? It sort of reminds me of when I go to the local NAPA store and there are 55 million different varieties of Loctite, Permatex, etc. ? ? Alex Thomson ? From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian Sent: Monday, September 13, 2021 2:11 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: [TR] Stuck Oil Pan ? > I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using "The Right Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any ideas on "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? ? Why I never use and hate Right Stuff.? When you do get the pan off it will be a bitch getting the surfaces clean.? Use Hylomar next time. ? Peter Arakelian 1971 TR6 ? | | Scanned byMcAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ? ? | | Scanned by McAfee and confirmed virus-free. | ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Sep 21 15:55:42 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2021 14:55:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 Message-ID: I watched this show as a kid, but probably watched it at the tail end like everyone else in the UK at the time. So Amazon has the first handful of series. The niece of JR is seen driving a silver TR7 in series 3. But in series 1 she was driving a silver X19, they don't have series 2 so I'm not sure what happened there. Anyway, did I want to admit I am watching this show? Anyway, are their secret Dallas fans out there who know anything about this car? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 21 16:27:09 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2021 22:27:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1867007786.25441.1632263229256@mail.yahoo.com> I never watched Dallas but I remember seeing a TR4 on Man From UNCLE.? Didn't Tara King drive a TR7 on The Avengers? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs Sent: Tue, Sep 21, 2021 4:55 pm Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 I watched this show as a kid, but probably?watched it at the tail end like everyone else in the UK at the time. So Amazon has the first handful of series. The niece of JR is seen driving a silver TR7 in series 3. But in series?1 she was driving?a silver X19,? they don't?have series 2 so I'm not sure what happened there.?Anyway, did I want to admit I am watching this show? Anyway, are their?secret Dallas fans out there who know anything about this car?Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 22 08:49:09 2021 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 10:49:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] More Triumphs on British TV Message-ID: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> Hello, We saw a red TR6 while watching episode 1 season 3 of Midsomer Murders last night. Nice looking with top town. Even heard it start up once. Driver was not the murderer. A few episodes ago the murderer was driving a nice Morgan. Not sure which model but it was beautiful. The driver was quite old. Now that he is in prison, can I have the Morgan? Bob From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 08:54:57 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 09:54:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] More Triumphs on British TV In-Reply-To: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> References: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <5F9B6F6D-450A-462B-846D-C308BBA390CF@yahoo.com> Saw a nice TR3A on Father Brown, had to chuckle as the year, in the show, was 1953. Bill ?Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns On Sep 22, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bob wrote: ?Hello, We saw a red TR6 while watching episode 1 season 3 of Midsomer Murders last night. Nice looking with top town. Even heard it start up once. Driver was not the murderer. A few episodes ago the murderer was driving a nice Morgan. Not sure which model but it was beautiful. The driver was quite old. Now that he is in prison, can I have the Morgan? Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 22 09:57:46 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 15:57:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] More Triumphs on British TV In-Reply-To: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> References: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <889071566.182349.1632326266615@mail.yahoo.com> In another episode one of the victims drove a nice TR250 (or 4A, not sure) which sustained a sideswipe.? In the earlier episodes inspector Barnaby drive a Jag.? He later upgraded (?) to a SAAB. One of the characters on New Tricks drove a Stag.? It was the butt of a few jokes. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: Triumphs Sent: Wed, Sep 22, 2021 9:49 am Subject: [TR] More Triumphs on British TV Hello, We saw a red TR6 while watching episode 1 season 3 of Midsomer Murders last night. Nice looking with top town. Even heard it start up once. Driver was not the murderer. A few episodes ago the murderer was driving a nice Morgan. Not sure which model but it was beautiful. The driver was quite old. Now that he is in prison, can I have the Morgan? Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Wed Sep 22 10:54:48 2021 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 16:54:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] More Triumphs on British TV In-Reply-To: <5F9B6F6D-450A-462B-846D-C308BBA390CF@yahoo.com> References: <504ac892-4e56-3303-1575-7ce46fba5423@adelphia.net> <5F9B6F6D-450A-462B-846D-C308BBA390CF@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <57A52F35-5C25-4D71-BA38-3AC44D1C9CC5@albiontechnical.com> Somebody may have posted this link before, so I apologize if I?m being redundant. It?s a great way to pleasantly waste a few hours on a rainy afternoon? https://www.imcdb.org/ Mike Sent from my iPhone On Sep 22, 2021, at 09:55, bill beecher wrote: ?Saw a nice TR3A on Father Brown, had to chuckle as the year, in the show, was 1953. Bill ?Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns On Sep 22, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bob wrote: ?Hello, We saw a red TR6 while watching episode 1 season 3 of Midsomer Murders last night. Nice looking with top town. Even heard it start up once. Driver was not the murderer. A few episodes ago the murderer was driving a nice Morgan. Not sure which model but it was beautiful. The driver was quite old. Now that he is in prison, can I have the Morgan? Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=0fwrWSGSlEzjHPTBSe3uGe-A2WGkxcEz-enUgeRWBKw&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=Uhm-g0a8mfX9dzNDOrQkp6d7fsTdvU1Arwl53DrFNoY&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=XFsFZXiP9MgzLc7hDQi09iZ57EcbyAJL4tgRIacTmKE&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_notakitcar-40yahoo.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=5rfnI2-74xH3zUSPXFM3xh0-qMqabpx9lII76EqhCgs&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=0fwrWSGSlEzjHPTBSe3uGe-A2WGkxcEz-enUgeRWBKw&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=Uhm-g0a8mfX9dzNDOrQkp6d7fsTdvU1Arwl53DrFNoY&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=XFsFZXiP9MgzLc7hDQi09iZ57EcbyAJL4tgRIacTmKE&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwIGaQ&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=I7OU9j3u8y79c4taX5VnMd1K2swnfSeSr0ahEvU-qXE&s=qdmSaImQBVmR7T6tCaWNRUjN5dmKTOZpEcCWSco44Qw&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed Sep 22 13:28:40 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 14:28:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000c01d7afe8$0c81b6e0$258524a0$@ranteer.com> FYI - here in Dallas we are very familiar with the show and the actual property. The show makes it look like its all alone out there on a ranch, but its really just a suburban house on a large lot. Not very impressive in person. It used to be ?way out there? but suburbia has totally swallowed it up and its now in a very built up area. Plus now it?s a regular carnival kind of place where they have events that no one local ever goes to. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2021 4:56 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 I watched this show as a kid, but probably watched it at the tail end like everyone else in the UK at the time. So Amazon has the first handful of series. The niece of JR is seen driving a silver TR7 in series 3. But in series 1 she was driving a silver X19, they don't have series 2 so I'm not sure what happened there. Anyway, did I want to admit I am watching this show? Anyway, are their secret Dallas fans out there who know anything about this car? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Sep 22 13:33:04 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2021 14:33:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 In-Reply-To: <000c01d7afe8$0c81b6e0$258524a0$@ranteer.com> References: <000c01d7afe8$0c81b6e0$258524a0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <06209351-C661-40C3-8227-5CD5F3EC3805@yahoo.com> Sujit, I watched the first few seasons but by the time the ?killed? Bobby and shot JR I had given up on it. Of course, the hurricane that hit Dallas was an unfamiliar sight. Bill ?Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns On Sep 22, 2021, at 2:29 PM, dave wrote: ? FYI - here in Dallas we are very familiar with the show and the actual property. The show makes it look like its all alone out there on a ranch, but its really just a suburban house on a large lot. Not very impressive in person. It used to be ?way out there? but suburbia has totally swallowed it up and its now in a very built up area. Plus now it?s a regular carnival kind of place where they have events that no one local ever goes to. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2021 4:56 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR7 on Dallas the serial series 3 I watched this show as a kid, but probably watched it at the tail end like everyone else in the UK at the time. So Amazon has the first handful of series. The niece of JR is seen driving a silver TR7 in series 3. But in series 1 she was driving a silver X19, they don't have series 2 so I'm not sure what happened there. Anyway, did I want to admit I am watching this show? Anyway, are their secret Dallas fans out there who know anything about this car? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lherault at verizon.net Thu Sep 23 14:15:07 2021 From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2021 16:15:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 Tr-6 alternator References: <009f01d7b0b7$b46412c0$1d2c3840$.ref@net> Message-ID: <009f01d7b0b7$b46412c0$1d2c3840$@net> My alternator has 4 wires. Three are in a row, two big connectors for 12v + out, and one smaller one that supplies the dash light, if I am not mistake. So what is the forth, small wire, lower and two the left in relation to the other three at the three O'Clock position? Thanks, Ron L -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Fri Sep 24 12:33:43 2021 From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2021 14:33:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 Tr-6 alternator In-Reply-To: <009f01d7b0b7$b46412c0$1d2c3840$@net> References: <009f01d7b0b7$b46412c0$1d2c3840$.ref@net> <009f01d7b0b7$b46412c0$1d2c3840$@net> Message-ID: <068001d7b172$b3f93200$1beb9600$@bell.net> Ron, you might find this article helpful. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: Ron L'Herault Sent: September 23, 2021 4:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] '73 Tr-6 alternator My alternator has 4 wires. Three are in a row, two big connectors for 12v + out, and one smaller one that supplies the dash light, if I am not mistake. So what is the forth, small wire, lower and two the left in relation to the other three at the three O'Clock position? Thanks, Ron L -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Triumph Alternator Repair - Charlie Brown.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 264791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri Sep 24 20:38:34 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2021 02:38:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A: drive shaft and axle shaft flanges Message-ID: Does anyone here know if the drive shaft and axle shaft flanges are different sizes? I need to replace one axle flange. I have a pair of new flanges ( 3-?? OD), but they are larger in diameter than the axle flanges (3-9/16? OD) and won?t go through the hole in the brake plate. Thanks, Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 24 21:23:02 2021 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2021 23:23:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr8 transmission or options Message-ID: I urged a friend to buy a low mileage tr8 from another friend vs buy my hopped up (not finished) TR6. He sold his TR3 after his wife passed and was ready for a Triumph suited to his needs. Awesome TR8....until first gear goes out. I feel horrible, but working the other friend for some assistance. Anyone out there have a tranny, a source, or a good alternative for the stock box? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 25 04:37:08 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2021 10:37:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tr8 transmission or options In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1820429133.804146.1632566228417@mail.yahoo.com> The T5 transmission is a very common swap.? A T5 5-speed from a V6 or V8 powered Camaro or GM pick-up will bolt up to the Rover engine but you will have to change the clutch assy.? The T5 is lighter and will handle more horse power and is available with a variety of gear ratios.? I seem to recall that a box from a V6 pickup will have a fifth gear with long legs giving you the most RPM reduction for cruising the highways. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph Sent: Fri, Sep 24, 2021 10:23 pm Subject: [TR] Tr8 transmission or options I urged a friend to buy a low mileage tr8 from another friend vs buy my hopped up (not finished) TR6. He sold his TR3 after his wife passed and was ready for a Triumph suited to his needs. Awesome TR8....until first gear goes out. I feel horrible, but working the other friend for some assistance.? Anyone out there have a tranny, a source, or a good alternative for the stock box? Thanks!** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lherault at verizon.net Tue Sep 28 21:46:49 2021 From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2021 23:46:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alternator confusion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d7b4e4$a295d2f0$e7c178d0$@net> Ack! So, none of the usual suppliers have any exact fit alternators listed for the 1973 TR-6. It has the large plug with three wires at 3 O'Clock and the small single wire plug at around 7 O'Clock. Advanced Auto now carries rebuilt alternators for TR-6s but just seems to have one with the three wire plug at 3 O'Clock Two large spade terminals and one smaller spade terminal. Sooo, will this unit, which seems to be identical physically, replace the 4 wire unit? If so, what do I do with the orphaned 4th wire and what exactly is/was its function? The wiring diagrams I've seen don't really help. The repair guide I read doesn't seem to help or I'm too dense to see it (a distinct possibility since I am more of an R and R mechanic). This is driving me nuts. HELLLLLP! Thanks, Ron L From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Sep 30 18:06:33 2021 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2021 20:06:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Throwout bearing Message-ID: Hey all ~ Anyone happen to know the manufacturer and part number for a TR3 throw-out bearing? I think it's a Timken part number... Thanks in advance, Dave Friedlander -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu Sep 30 18:32:41 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2021 19:32:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Throwout bearing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Don?t have the answer but if you take your old one to any bearing shop they can fix you up. Bill B TS30800L ?Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns On Sep 30, 2021, at 7:07 PM, David Friedlander wrote: ? Hey all ~ Anyone happen to know the manufacturer and part number for a TR3 throw-out bearing? I think it's a Timken part number... Thanks in advance, Dave Friedlander ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: