[TR] TR3a temp sensor

[DAVE HOGYE]

I think the price to rebuild my TR3 temp gauge including replacing the capillary tube was close to $300 ten years ago.  I replaced all my small gauges with AutoMeter electric gauges for about the same price or less.  They look very similar to the original units and have beveled glass but with orange needles.  
A TR4 t-stat housing will work if you can't find a TR3 unit.  They are slightly different in appearance.  I think the TR4 housing is die cast, might be pot metal and TR3 looks sand cast and is aluminum.  I believe TR4s had an electrical temp gauge that is otherwise exactly like a TR3.  
Dave H.

> On 08/10/2023 10:18 AM PDT Tom Walling <pdqtr6 at comcast.net> wrote:
>  
>  
> Don't cut the housing unless you have a "lock" on a replacement. It would be much harder to replace than the sensor. There may even be a way to replace the original ether-filled system with an electric one. The old system always seemed too prone to failure to me anyways!
> 
> > On 08/10/2023 9:02 AM EDT rjray.architect at gmail.com wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > Dave,
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > The temperature gauge probably did not work because the capillary tube has a leak. There are companies that can install a new tube.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >   Ron
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave northrup
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2023 5:56 PM
> > To: Listers <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [TR] TR3a temp sensor
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Here is where I am.  Do I cut up the housing or cut the sensor?  I can turn the sensor with pliars inside the housing but its clearly not coming out.  I put it in a bucket and poured very hot water in there but the gage didn’t move, so I’m figuring the gage doesn’t work.
> > 
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