From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct  1 01:35:38 2025
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 07:35:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>

My brake booster developed a vacuum leak and is in need of service.? Are there any recommendations for a rebuilder who will work on a TR6 booster?
Thanks in advance.
Dave 


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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  1 06:02:47 2025
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 08:02:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLFAfnZhoarUBQ9atqZaTgeRKzMnXY8O4gy8H2QDVdNdrw@mail.gmail.com>

Dave, I used a company called Brake Materials & Parts Inc.  In 2017 the
cost was $170 plus shipping.

https://www.brakematerialsandparts.com/

Brad

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 3:58?AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> My brake booster developed a vacuum leak and is in need of service.  Are
> there any recommendations for a rebuilder who will work on a TR6 booster?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Oct  1 06:36:16 2025
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 12:36:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2ed36aac353142018601da99ecbb2ab6@ranteer.com>

Ted Schumacher did mine.

TSI (tedtsimx at bright.net<mailto:tedtsimx at bright.net>)
108 South Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, 45877
(419) 384-3022

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Wednesday, October 1, 2025 2:36 AM
To: List Truimphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild

My brake booster developed a vacuum leak and is in need of service.  Are there any recommendations for a rebuilder who will work on a TR6 booster?

Thanks in advance.

Dave


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From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com  Wed Oct  1 06:54:00 2025
From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (Gerald Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 12:54:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <2ed36aac353142018601da99ecbb2ab6@ranteer.com>
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2ed36aac353142018601da99ecbb2ab6@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR02MB580521F1F8E9440945B98E89F6E6A@MN2PR02MB5805.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

Brake Parts, Brake Relining, Booster Rebuilding, Brake Hoses | Brake Materials And Parts<https://www.brakematerialsandparts.com/>


This company did mine a few years ago. Very satisfied. Located in Ft Wayne, IN I suggest calling them.

JVV
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 1, 2025 8:36 AM
To: List Truimphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild


Ted Schumacher did mine.



TSI (tedtsimx at bright.net<mailto:tedtsimx at bright.net>)

108 South Jefferson St.

Pandora, Ohio, 45877

(419) 384-3022



From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Wednesday, October 1, 2025 2:36 AM
To: List Truimphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild



My brake booster developed a vacuum leak and is in need of service.  Are there any recommendations for a rebuilder who will work on a TR6 booster?



Thanks in advance.



Dave




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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Oct  1 07:36:45 2025
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 08:36:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaDbrGL5V0TT1AqR0apGg++V_RZo5M-_2qhr4eF389egw@mail.gmail.com>

I used these guys, quick turn around and reasonable priced (a few years
back)


Power Brake Exchange, Inc.
260 Phelan Ave.
<https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>
San Jose, Ca. 95112
<https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>

(775) 297-4795
http://www.pwrbrake.com
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From ronaldolds53 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  1 08:20:47 2025
From: ronaldolds53 at gmail.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 10:20:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaDbrGL5V0TT1AqR0apGg++V_RZo5M-_2qhr4eF389egw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFtw3aaDbrGL5V0TT1AqR0apGg++V_RZo5M-_2qhr4eF389egw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOqNOT-fukSxWWte=PEne=1UuV75mxmE57tpdM49JccTLFMDww@mail.gmail.com>

I had mine done by Brake Materials & Parts which is located in Fort Wayne,
IN, 260-426-3331.  I was very pleased with the quality of work, turn around
and cost.

Regards,
Ronald Olds


On Wed, Oct 1, 2025 at 9:48?AM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:

> I used these guys, quick turn around and reasonable priced (a few years
> back)
>
>
> Power Brake Exchange, Inc.
> 260 Phelan Ave.
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>
> San Jose, Ca. 95112
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>
>
> (775) 297-4795
> http://www.pwrbrake.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ronaldolds53 at gmail.com
>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  1 12:25:24 2025
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Levi)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 12:25:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <2ed36aac353142018601da99ecbb2ab6@ranteer.com>
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <2ed36aac353142018601da99ecbb2ab6@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <EF3A8228-F612-2645-8365-EDB2ACE86DD5@hxcore.ol>

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Oct  1 15:02:56 2025
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2025 15:02:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaDbrGL5V0TT1AqR0apGg++V_RZo5M-_2qhr4eF389egw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFtw3aaDbrGL5V0TT1AqR0apGg++V_RZo5M-_2qhr4eF389egw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82b53b17-c60a-4d5f-98c6-94da88526926@porterscustom.com>

Me too. I've used them for years. Never an issue.

On 10/1/2025 7:36 AM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I used these guys, quick turn around and reasonable priced (a few 
> years back)
>
>
> Power Brake Exchange, Inc.
> 260 Phelan Ave. 
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>
> San Jose, Ca. 95112 
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/260+Phelan+Ave.+San+Jose,+Ca.+95112?entry=gmail&source=g>
>
> (775) 297-4795
> http://www.pwrbrake.com <http://www.pwrbrake.com/>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com

-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Oct  2 05:39:49 2025
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2025 11:39:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Booster Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1830683888.2634200.1759304138819@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1649862587.3122891.1759405189431@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the replies.? If this were a popular choice contest Power Brake Exchange, Inc. gets the vote.? I pinged?Brake Materials & Parts Inc. but they have not responded in 24 hours.? I saw the one on Rimmer's website.? The price was about the same as?Power Brake Exchange but the shipping was free at PBE and shipping from Rimmer Bro's is 5 weeks and how much tariff will be added?
As far as rebuilding it myself for the satisfaction of Doing it Myself, I have plenty of Did it Myself's and this is one learning curve I don't feel I need to climb.? Plus, I have too many irons in the fire at the moment.? I'm in the middle of building a garden shed for the wife, I'm seriously considering pulling together all the parts to my original?TR6 engine for a rebuild while my search for a 4L Rover engine to rebuild continues.? And the Mega Squirt tuning continues (as it always does).
Thanks again for all the suggestions.? All are valid options but I picked?Power Brake Exchange, Inc. since they showed them in stock and had free shipping and (this is important) I can send my core back and reduce clutter around here.
Dave 


 

    On Wednesday, October 1, 2025 at 02:35:38 AM CDT, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:   

 My brake booster developed a vacuum leak and is in need of service.? Are there any recommendations for a rebuilder who will work on a TR6 booster?
Thanks in advance.
Dave 


  
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  3 09:45:31 2025
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2025 10:45:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] More reliable brake switches
In-Reply-To: <000301dc266f$dbafd030$930f7090$@gmx.com>
References: <000301dc266f$dbafd030$930f7090$@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <FF64BBAC-6EDA-4A09-BBAD-6A5B6C42557D@yahoo.com>

John,
Somewhere in my archives I have a sound bite of your unkind regard for the motorbikes on the Tail of the Dragon.  Need to find that. 
Bill B
 
?If at first you don?t succeed, then skydiving definitely isn?t for you?

On Sep 15, 2025, at 1:53?PM, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:

?
Don,
 
Your recommendation for H-D kit took me back many years to when I reported to the list ? or was it someone else (?) that two domed and plated nuts and oil proof washers off the Honda Gold Wing were ideal substitutes to the factory fitted hardware that appeared on all the valve covers.
Talking of the Gold Wing, I recall following one with two people on it when I did the Tail of the Dragon in TN in 2009 in a Stag. At the time, I felt and said to the video camera I had running that pushing a concert-sized grand piano along that stretch of road would have been far easier for the pushers than riding a huge bike of that type.
 
Jonmac
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Fri Oct  3 10:12:16 2025
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2025 17:12:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] More reliable brake switches
In-Reply-To: <FF64BBAC-6EDA-4A09-BBAD-6A5B6C42557D@yahoo.com>
References: <000301dc266f$dbafd030$930f7090$@gmx.com>
 <FF64BBAC-6EDA-4A09-BBAD-6A5B6C42557D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <66CCF855-D0F7-45E1-911A-C6229AC8DDC1@gmx.com>

Bill,

You may have misunderstood me? I don?t have a disregard for motorcycles at all - in fact quite the contrary. As I recall, my ascerbic comment on the Tail of the Dragon was that to really enjoy the challenges of that road on a proper motorcycle, one needed the likes of a Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi or something both powerful and safely bankable, rather than a Honda Goldwing doing 20mph maximum, taking up far too much road and creating a trail of at least ten or twelve cars in its wake. The little Triumph Tiger Cub I had at the age of 16 would have easily and very effectively run circles round that huge Honda.

Best

John

> On 3 Oct 2025, at 16:45, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> John,
> Somewhere in my archives I have a sound bite of your unkind regard for the motorbikes on the Tail of the Dragon.  Need to find that. 
> Bill B
>  
> ?If at first you don?t succeed, then skydiving definitely isn?t for you?
> 
> On Sep 15, 2025, at 1:53?PM, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Don,
>  
> Your recommendation for H-D kit took me back many years to when I reported to the list ? or was it someone else (?) that two domed and plated nuts and oil proof washers off the Honda Gold Wing were ideal substitutes to the factory fitted hardware that appeared on all the valve covers.
> Talking of the Gold Wing, I recall following one with two people on it when I did the Tail of the Dragon in TN in 2009 in a Stag. At the time, I felt and said to the video camera I had running that pushing a concert-sized grand piano along that stretch of road would have been far easier for the pushers than riding a huge bike of that type.
>  
> Jonmac
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 09:20:52 2025
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 11:20:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] J-type OD top cover switches
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwissFSa9YyYRX1rmY4WU5c7Y00_EaV11v3jBfK4aAM5pg@mail.gmail.com>

Greetings everyone!

I am trying to install my J-type overdrive transmission having two switches
on the top cover and am using new harnesses I purchased from British Wiring.

It appears to me that these new harnesses have too many wires on them,
adding to my confusion.

Can anyone provide me pictures of a properly wired two-switch top cover?

Any help will be VERY MUCH appreciated!

Dave Friedlander
'74 TR6
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 11:19:51 2025
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 11:19:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>

For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine
screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC
fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then
seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the
tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.
But now it's a trend.

There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting
the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.

Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple
Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been
down this road ahead of me?

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 12:19:42 2025
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 11:19:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gasket sealer recommendations in USA
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHEO725Ryv++RCxu6snP+SG7A9RLXaf735oN1SubH72bQ@mail.gmail.com>

With the Stag having a similar set up to the TR7, what are folks using to
seal the inlet manifold gaskets to the head?

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Oct  6 13:18:48 2025
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 15:18:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>

Seems to me those machine screws had lock washers under the head and maybe hard to tell, but your picture seems to not show a washer.

 

Keith

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

 

 

 

From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> 
Sent: October 6, 2025 1:20 PM
To: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.  But now it's a trend. 

 

There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.

Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been down this road ahead of me?

 

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 13:35:24 2025
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 13:35:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
In-Reply-To: <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>
References: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com>

Let me check that, Keith.  Yes, lockwashers would make sense.  I'm sure I
put back everything I took off when I replaced the diaphragm, but who knows
what happened before me.  Thx --

On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 1:18?PM <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:

> Seems to me those machine screws had lock washers under the head and maybe
> hard to tell, but your picture seems to not show a washer.
>
>
>
> Keith
>
>
>
> Keith Stewart
>
> keithstewart at bell.net
>
> World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* October 6, 2025 1:20 PM
> *To:* Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
> diaphragm cover screws?
>
>
>
> For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine
> screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC
> fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then
> seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the
> tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.
> But now it's a trend.
>
>
>
> There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting
> the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.
>
> Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple
> Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been
> down this road ahead of me?
>
>
>
>
> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg
>
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Oct  6 14:30:14 2025
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 16:30:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <042a01dc3700$0589b1f0$109d15d0$@bell.net>

As shown here:



 

Keith

Keith Stewart

 <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> keithstewart at bell.net

World of Triumph  <https://keith-stewart.ca/> https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

 

 

 

From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> 
Sent: October 6, 2025 3:35 PM
To: keithstewart at bell.net
Cc: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

Let me check that, Keith.  Yes, lockwashers would make sense.  I'm sure I put back everything I took off when I replaced the diaphragm, but who knows what happened before me.  Thx --

 

On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 1:18?PM <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

Seems to me those machine screws had lock washers under the head and maybe hard to tell, but your picture seems to not show a washer.

 

Keith

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

 

 

 

From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > 
Sent: October 6, 2025 1:20 PM
To: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.  But now it's a trend. 

 

There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.

Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been down this road ahead of me?

 

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg

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From davidt.triumph at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 14:44:04 2025
From: davidt.triumph at gmail.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 16:44:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-MLAiC4PpgOdxj7Z1WEjCkOCtq_Lhs+dEgNyJVGYQLEo0Vhw@mail.gmail.com>

need to go and find photos :-)    Lock washers

[image: image.png]

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10159241057656960&set=pb.589451959.-2207520000

david

On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 4:20?PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> Let me check that, Keith.  Yes, lockwashers would make sense.  I'm sure I
> put back everything I took off when I replaced the diaphragm, but who knows
> what happened before me.  Thx --
>
> On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 1:18?PM <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
>
>> Seems to me those machine screws had lock washers under the head and
>> maybe hard to tell, but your picture seems to not show a washer.
>>
>>
>>
>> Keith
>>
>>
>>
>> Keith Stewart
>>
>> keithstewart at bell.net
>>
>> World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* October 6, 2025 1:20 PM
>> *To:* Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
>> diaphragm cover screws?
>>
>>
>>
>> For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine
>> screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC
>> fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then
>> seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the
>> tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.
>> But now it's a trend.
>>
>>
>>
>> There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting
>> the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.
>>
>> Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple
>> Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been
>> down this road ahead of me?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt.triumph at gmail.com
>


-- 
Regards
David Templeton
Ontario, Canada
1959 TR3a TS54226L
1974 Spitsix FM10491L
1980 TR7 TCT101153UMF
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Mon Oct  6 14:55:50 2025
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 16:55:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump
 diaphragm cover screws?
References: <CAPK7CFCtjxqZ7jxHyw=2cFo=8YGT7B1fPwMRqhYEMFEo_N_9Wg@mail.gmail.com>
 <03c701dc36f6$0b0da2d0$2128e870$@bell.net>
 <CAPK7CFDmSkr=ocJ3ddwQX72msbSmOvdUwi4VPN1nOrubFarO3A@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <043b01dc3703$992d61b0$cb882510$@bell.net>

? and also here:

 

 

From: keithstewart at bell.net <keithstewart at bell.net> 
Sent: October 6, 2025 4:30 PM
To: 'Don Hiscock' <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs list' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

As shown here:



 

Keith

Keith Stewart

 <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> keithstewart at bell.net

World of Triumph  <https://keith-stewart.ca/> https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

 

 

 

From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > 
Sent: October 6, 2025 3:35 PM
To: keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 
Cc: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

Let me check that, Keith.  Yes, lockwashers would make sense.  I'm sure I put back everything I took off when I replaced the diaphragm, but who knows what happened before me.  Thx --

 

On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 1:18?PM <keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> > wrote:

Seems to me those machine screws had lock washers under the head and maybe hard to tell, but your picture seems to not show a washer.

 

Keith

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

 

 

 

From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com> > 
Sent: October 6, 2025 1:20 PM
To: Triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] Which threadlocker color for wet-liner four AC fuel pump diaphragm cover screws?

 

For some unknown reason, after ten years or more in the TR3B the machine screws that hold down the top of the diaphragm cover on the original AC fuel pump have started working loose as the car is driven.  Gasoline then seeps slowly from the edge of the diaphragm due to the pressure head in the tank.  Very odd.  The first time I was willing to chalk up to a one-off.  But now it's a trend. 

 

There's only so tight one wants go go on those screws without distorting the diecasting, and I'm probably a little past where I feel comfortable now.

Seems like a case for a threadlocking compound.  I'm guessing purple Locktite might do the trick -- it shouldn't take much.  Has anyone been down this road ahead of me?

 

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWD7M6q/0/KGTMZ64Lk6ZV6VHFPGR8PKkQNJvmJHxd74ZVFkQLS/X5/i-QWD7M6q-X5.jpg

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From davidt.triumph at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 15:09:51 2025
From: davidt.triumph at gmail.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 17:09:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gasket sealer recommendations in USA
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHEO725Ryv++RCxu6snP+SG7A9RLXaf735oN1SubH72bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHEO725Ryv++RCxu6snP+SG7A9RLXaf735oN1SubH72bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-MLAitW7zw7TN8_TS18Aiar4b5dnndU8i4ztTySDG2_m8PMA@mail.gmail.com>

For what it is worth, I used this on the '3a and the spit6, and for the '3a
it sealed all of the vacuum leaks I had.

[image: image.png]

On Mon, Oct 6, 2025 at 2:50?PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> With the Stag having a similar set up to the TR7, what are folks using to
> seal the inlet manifold gaskets to the head?
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt.triumph at gmail.com
>


-- 
Regards
David Templeton
Ontario, Canada
1959 TR3a TS54226L
1974 Spitsix FM10491L
1980 TR7 TCT101153UMF
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From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  7 08:44:40 2025
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2025 14:44:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Hurry! Free Triumphs And Parts on Barn Finds
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1756144804.17706.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1756144804.17706.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <493490093.198898.1759848280446@mail.yahoo.com>

 An estate is giving away parts/project Triumphs on Barn Finds site hoping to keep cars from going to scrap.? Please share!
Hurry! Free Triumphs And Parts | Barn Finds
Ann Carletta1960 Triumph TR3A2012 Jaguar XF2017 Jaguar F-Type convertible
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From kmbeam at comcast.net  Tue Oct  7 14:59:35 2025
From: kmbeam at comcast.net (kmbeam at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2025 16:59:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire sighting, Sun, 10/05/24,
 about 12:15 p.m. on Tannery Road, Girard Township, PA
Message-ID: <025401dc37cd$50c42f10$f24c8d30$@comcast.net>

While visiting my hometown, my wife and I saw a good-looking Damson Red Spit
east bound on Tannery Road, Girard Township, PA, immediately to the west of
the I-90 overpass at about 12:15 p.m. on Sun, 10/05/25.  It appeared to have
a roundel on the hood, so it appeared to be a 1970 Mk III.  Is the owner on
either of these lists?

 

Best

--

(Kim &) Kevin Beam

1956 TR3

1962 AJ BT7

1970 Damson Red Spit Mk III

1981 TR8

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From johnBMacartney at gmx.com  Wed Oct  8 08:12:58 2025
From: johnBMacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 15:12:58 +0100
Subject: [TR] Stag 60th in 2026
Message-ID: <000001dc385d$a6e98cb0$f4bca610$@gmx.com>

I'm not planning on visiting this event in 2026 as I don't own a Stag and
probably never will. Don't think there are too many across the pond who'll
be doing the same as very few are left and despite Standard-Triumph's best
research, the car didn't meet the company's expectations for the two or
three years it was on sale.

 

Anyway, all that to one side. Browsing my Apple iPad today, I encountered an
intriguing article called "British Road Etiquette for Americans" and it made
me chuckle. For those of you who have never visited this mudheap in the east
Atlantic, there is a very definite and firmly entrenched road etiquette -
and driving on the left isn't the only factor to take into account. So I say
this, If anyone on the list is planning to come here in 2026 for the Stag
Event (whatever it is and wherever it'll be) and planning to rent a car at
the time, I'll be happy to develop that article and add a few extra comments
of my own.

 

Jonmac

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From stan at redtr6.com  Wed Oct  8 09:06:12 2025
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 15:06:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Stag 60th in 2026
In-Reply-To: <000001dc385d$a6e98cb0$f4bca610$@gmx.com>
References: <000001dc385d$a6e98cb0$f4bca610$@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR05MB7786D354EC8B2FD9A98A8CCCFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

[cid:image001.png at 01DC3843.8C1BF900]

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 10:13 AM
To: 'List Truimphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Stag 60th in 2026

I'm not planning on visiting this event in 2026 as I don't own a Stag and probably never will. Don't think there are too many across the pond who'll be doing the same as very few are left and despite Standard-Triumph's best research, the car didn't meet the company's expectations for the two or three years it was on sale.

Anyway, all that to one side. Browsing my Apple iPad today, I encountered an intriguing article called "British Road Etiquette for Americans" and it made me chuckle. For those of you who have never visited this mudheap in the east Atlantic, there is a very definite and firmly entrenched road etiquette - and driving on the left isn't the only factor to take into account. So I say this, If anyone on the list is planning to come here in 2026 for the Stag Event (whatever it is and wherever it'll be) and planning to rent a car at the time, I'll be happy to develop that article and add a few extra comments of my own.

Jonmac
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed Oct  8 14:37:00 2025
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2025 20:37:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
Message-ID: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>

I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I 
saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such 
luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear 
end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near 
where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check 
with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with 
them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old 
lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put 
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may 
be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just 
how a fix should be attempted.

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really 
something that can be fixed that way?







-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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From stan at redtr6.com  Wed Oct  8 15:37:30 2025
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 21:37:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?







[https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed Oct  8 16:05:09 2025
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2025 22:05:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
Message-ID: <5f59adc0-4967-af6d-d6e7-eff95184379a@earthlink.net>

I too had frame cracks from the tube shock brackets I installed.  I had a local welder come out and weld up the cracks and add differential reinforcement brackets.  I had done minor welding, but didn't have a welder or adequate power in my apartment garage.  It was well worth paying someone to weld in an overhead location.  I was nearby with a good fire extinguisher and a garden hose as I to was concerned about the welding near the gas can.

To prevent the problem in the future I added diagonal braces down to the frame behind the shock brackets and a cross brace between the two shock brackets.

For anyone installing the tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt to with the original lever shock bolts, test the range of motion without the spring installed.  The trailing arm goes through an angular motion that puts a sideways force on the frame cross member that it wasn't designed for.  

I remade the brackets to move the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for a better range of motion.  If I were to go back in time, I would just have the heavy duty rebuild of the original lever shocks.

Brian 

-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
Sent: Oct 8, 2025 2:40 PM
To: Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu>, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.
 
Stan
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break



I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
 

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
 

 
 

 
 

 




 
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed Oct  8 21:18:22 2025
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 03:18:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <em3cf0092c-594b-4c87-bb6c-4e8a0487f653@0baed868.com>

Thanks Stan. That RATCO replacement cross member looks great, but it is 
a big undertaking. Since mine hasn't torn off yet I may try first to get 
it braced with some support brackets, similar to what I did years ago 
with the diff mounts.

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>
To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed Oct  8 21:20:50 2025
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 03:20:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <5f59adc0-4967-af6d-d6e7-eff95184379a@earthlink.net>
References: <5f59adc0-4967-af6d-d6e7-eff95184379a@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <em720d5f30-aa47-49a5-90b1-f255ced17086@0baed868.com>

Thanks Brian. I think I will try to go this route. I don't suppose you 
have any photos of your setup do you?

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Brian Kemp" <bk13 at earthlink.net>
To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date 10/8/2025 6:05:09 PM
Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I too had frame cracks from the tube shock brackets I installed.  I had 
>a local welder come out and weld up the cracks and add differential 
>reinforcement brackets.  I had done minor welding, but didn't have a 
>welder or adequate power in my apartment garage.  It was well worth 
>paying someone to weld in an overhead location.  I was nearby with a 
>good fire extinguisher and a garden hose as I to was concerned about 
>the welding near the gas can.
>
>
>
>To prevent the problem in the future I added diagonal braces down to 
>the frame behind the shock brackets and a cross brace between the two 
>shock brackets.
>
>
>
>For anyone installing the tube shock conversion brackets that just bolt 
>to with the original lever shock bolts, test the range of motion 
>without the spring installed.  The trailing arm goes through an angular 
>motion that puts a sideways force on the frame cross member that it 
>wasn't designed for.
>
>
>
>I remade the brackets to move the top of the shock about 1.5 inches for 
>a better range of motion.  If I were to go back in time, I would just 
>have the heavy duty rebuild of the original lever shocks.
>
>
>
>Brian
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
>Sent: Oct 8, 2025 2:40 PM
>To: Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu>, Triumphs 
><triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
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From gene at garrison-grafixx.com  Thu Oct  9 11:25:56 2025
From: gene at garrison-grafixx.com (Gene Garrison)
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2025 12:25:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
Message-ID: <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>

Ouch!

Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.

Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.

Just a thought for when you get to that point.

- GeneG

On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
> 
> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Oct  9 13:34:47 2025
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 12:34:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
Message-ID: <826402383.94596.1760038488045@connect.xfinity.com>

Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in different performance levels.  Standard, heavy duty and adjustable.  Typically he would like your old shocks as cores.  He would evaluate the original shocks and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not.  Sometimes the original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in the main casting, rendering them not rebuildable. 
I have the adjustable shocks on my TR3 and they are great.  It's just a bleed valve plumbed to the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores.  Reducing or increasing the flow to slow or speed the action. 
 
Dave H. 

> On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison <gene at garrison-grafixx.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> Ouch!
>  
> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.
>  
> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>  
> Just a thought for when you get to that point.
>  
> - GeneG
>  
> On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> 
> > I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
> >  
> > That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >  
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From brserv at aol.com  Thu Oct  9 14:29:33 2025
From: brserv at aol.com (brserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 20:29:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
Message-ID: <490692460.1151951.1760041773098@mail.yahoo.com>

I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.?
?AlexL??
In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gene at garrison-grafixx.com writes:?
Ouch!?Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.?Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".? I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.? But it always worried me.? Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?? Could look it up when I get home.)? And I figured I'd give it a try.? And I'm very, very happy with the results.?Just a thought for when you get to that point.?- GeneG?On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.?That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way????????
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Oct  9 15:08:35 2025
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 21:08:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <826402383.94596.1760038488045@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
 <826402383.94596.1760038488045@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1b8575e83b82407eaa68a9ff07df9968@ranteer.com>

+! On world wide imports.  They have done several sets for me

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE
Sent: Thursday, October 9, 2025 2:35 PM
To: Gene Garrison <gene at garrison-grafixx.com>; Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports can provide replacement lever shocks in different performance levels.  Standard, heavy duty and adjustable.  Typically he would like your old shocks as cores.  He would evaluate the original shocks and adjust the core cost if they are rebuildable or not.  Sometimes the original shock mounting bolts would loosen and wear the mounting holes in the main casting, rendering them not rebuildable.
I have the adjustable shocks on my TR3 and they are great.  It's just a bleed valve plumbed to the piston bores that controls the flow between the bores.  Reducing or increasing the flow to slow or speed the action.

Dave H.
On 10/09/2025 10:25 AM PDT Gene Garrison <gene at garrison-grafixx.com<mailto:gene at garrison-grafixx.com>> wrote:


Ouch!

Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.

Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.

Just a thought for when you get to that point.

- GeneG

On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?







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  *   TR6 broken support.JPG

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Oct  9 18:07:11 2025
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 18:07:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <490692460.1151951.1760041773098@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
 <490692460.1151951.1760041773098@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8c286b86-be3f-4937-a2cf-6e4aa1dfc6f8@porterscustom.com>

Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..

On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, brserv at aol.com wrote:
> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of 
> Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can 
> specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of 
> higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock 
> lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks 
> from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them 
> back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.
> AlexL
>
> In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> gene at garrison-grafixx.com writes:
>
>     Ouch!
>     Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want
>     to recommend what I (eventually) did.
>     Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to
>     the rear shocks not "shocking".? I put on a similar adapter, and
>     was fortunate to never see any cracks.? But it always worried me.?
>     Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that
>     would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics? Could look it up
>     when I get home.)? And I figured I'd give it a try.? And I'm very,
>     very happy with the results.
>     Just a thought for when you get to that point.
>     - GeneG
>     On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
>
>         I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me
>         in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement,
>         so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the
>         problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook
>         bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up
>         on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed
>         the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where
>         the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick
>         check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not
>         available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount
>         replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of
>         decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that
>         frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out
>         there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a
>         fix should be attempted.
>         That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back
>         side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills
>         in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have
>         never done anything under a car. I really don't like the
>         proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local
>         pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really
>         something that can be fixed that way?
>         <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>         	Virus-free.www.avast.com
>         <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>         http://www.team.net/archive
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gene at garrison-grafixx.com
>         *Attachments:*
>
>           * TR6 broken support.JPG
>
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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>
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>
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-- 
DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 ph 505-352-1378  My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Thu Oct  9 19:15:08 2025
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2025 20:15:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <8c286b86-be3f-4937-a2cf-6e4aa1dfc6f8@porterscustom.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
 <490692460.1151951.1760041773098@mail.yahoo.com>
 <8c286b86-be3f-4937-a2cf-6e4aa1dfc6f8@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aajEbKay61W64bJhKUiye-WbyU8m25dKZ3TvWrWi_oe1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossing my Triumph since
I finished restoring it about 15 years ago.  So far so good, I have a lift
so can check things out pretty easily.

I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay several years ago,
thinking I would never go back.   I put a couple extra washers on the
bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help department) as I understand it
may be at the limit of travel for the shock that the mount gets stressed.

Greg Lemon

On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29?PM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

> Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..
> On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, brserv at aol.com wrote:
>
> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison,
> Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you
> want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus,
> they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install
> a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks
> and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock.
>
> AlexL
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> gene at garrison-grafixx.com writes:
>
>
> Ouch!
>
> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to
> recommend what I (eventually) did.
>
> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear
> shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to
> never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I
> started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple
> Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it
> a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>
> Just a thought for when you get to that point.
>
> - GeneG
>
> On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
>
> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974
> TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to
> sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the
> spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
> finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed
> the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after
> market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss
> parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm
> wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I
> installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure
> on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out
> there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be
> attempted.
>
> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the
> cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and
> I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really
> don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my
> local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something
> that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gene at garrison-grafixx.com
>
>
> *Attachments:*
>
>    - TR6 broken support.JPG
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/brserv at aol.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> --
> DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 <https://www.google.com/maps/search/2909+Arno+St.+NE+Albuquerque,+NM.+87107?entry=gmail&source=g> ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Oct 10 12:12:02 2025
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2025 12:12:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aajEbKay61W64bJhKUiye-WbyU8m25dKZ3TvWrWi_oe1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <f585a5a8-32b8-42d4-9c74-c9537361d24c@app.fastmail.com>
 <490692460.1151951.1760041773098@mail.yahoo.com>
 <8c286b86-be3f-4937-a2cf-6e4aa1dfc6f8@porterscustom.com>
 <CAFtw3aajEbKay61W64bJhKUiye-WbyU8m25dKZ3TvWrWi_oe1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAD58D59-4014-44F7-9B73-B77D5DA2589F@comcast.net>

I went back to lever arm shocks (heavy duty rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics) after the telescopic shocks ripped a chunk of my frame out. If I?d buildt up the bump stop it might have prevented it but the lever arm shocks work well if as new. I?ve had good luck with them on road trips and have done just fine autocrossing with them.

This probably happened when I autocrossed the car at VTR2007 but it only completely broke loose about 75 miles from home so I limped slowly back to the shop.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)





> On Oct 9, 2025, at 7:15 PM, Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have the tube shock conversion, I have been autocrossing my Triumph since I finished restoring it about 15 years ago.  So far so good, I have a lift so can check things out pretty easily.
> 
> I had a good set of lever shocks, but sold them on eBay several years ago, thinking I would never go back.   I put a couple extra washers on the bumper stop (in the can't hurt might help department) as I understand it may be at the limit of travel for the shock that the mount gets stressed.
> 
> Greg Lemon
> 
> On Thu, Oct 9, 2025, 7:29?PM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com <mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com>> wrote:
> Dang, now I have to check mine for cracks..
> 
> On 10/9/2025 2:29 PM, brserv at aol.com <mailto:brserv at aol.com> wrote:
>> I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock. 
>>  
>> AlexL
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gene at garrison-grafixx.com <mailto:gene at garrison-grafixx.com> writes:
>>  
>> Ouch!
>>  
>> Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did.
>>  
>> Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results.
>>  
>> Just a thought for when you get to that point.
>>  
>> - GeneG
>>  
>> On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
>> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>>  
>> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>	Virus-free.www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>>  
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
>>  
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gene at garrison-grafixx.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gene at garrison-grafixx.com>
>>  
>>  
>> Attachments:
>> TR6 broken support.JPG
>>  
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>> 
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> -- 
> DBA Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 87107 <https://www.google.com/maps/search/2909+Arno+St.+NE+Albuquerque,+NM.+87107?entry=gmail&source=g> ph 505-352-1378  My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://www.porterbikes.com/>** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Sat Oct 11 09:17:45 2025
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2025 15:17:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
Message-ID: <emd0e412ea-e4a9-4ca8-86cf-f6d8fc0151f1@b4fa6347.com>

I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on my problem 
of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing the original lever 
shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see that the problem has been 
widely discussed, probably here on Triumphs as well as on various 
forums. I wish I had paid attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock 
setups bolt to the same mounting plate on the cross member, I had 
difficulty understanding why the tube setup should do so much damage 
compared to the stock lever shocks. Well, I just found an old thread 
(Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Walt P) explained a lot with 
reference to Ken D's photo.

"Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link and wondered 
if something was wrong. The consensus was that it was probably normal 
unless the rear spring wasn't seated properly. Walt P offered this great 
explanation.

Notice the angles in the two lever-shock link-arm photos.
Now, imagine that a standard Fixed Mounting of a shock absorber/damper 
was used (between the frame & the TA) to replace the lever-shock & 
link-arm.
As the Trailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the Fixed 
Mounted Shock Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm did?
Or, would the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the 
relatively fragile frame that it was mounted on?
Because that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is used 
to replace the Lever-Shock.

Something to consider if the idea of a rear shock appeals to you.

Some venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the TA 
movement,
but Others do not.
Be aware of what you are seeing in the their ads."

Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long before this 
explanation came out, so I won't kick myself in the ass too hard. Some 
of you may be interested in another aspect of the "fix" for the cracking 
problem, namely putting lever shocks back on a new or repaired cross 
member. I found a great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" Youtube video that 
showed how to service the original lever shocks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrBaaLEHpw
I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the first time, and did 
what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shocks were pretty 
clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but I plowed ahead. 
First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease zerk installed in the 
cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the new ones I have seen at Moss). 
Even worse, mine had a load of grease in them and not much else. Who 
knows who put those on! So maybe that is why my ride was so bad, and 
that in turn was why I replaced them with the tubes. I wish I had looked 
inside, but the idea of the tube conversion looked so inviting back 
then. I soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after drying filled the 
first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, and it now offers 
great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. In a few minutes I 
head to the garage to do the other one. I think I am going to have two 
good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my cross member can be removed 
without too much trouble (the left side is actually unattached to the 
rail now) and repaired with some welded braces.

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>
To "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM
Subject TR6 rear shock mount break

>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>Virus-free.www.avast.com 
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><#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Oct 11 11:05:20 2025
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2025 11:05:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <emd0e412ea-e4a9-4ca8-86cf-f6d8fc0151f1@b4fa6347.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <emd0e412ea-e4a9-4ca8-86cf-f6d8fc0151f1@b4fa6347.com>
Message-ID: <1609e04a-78e9-4f45-a659-4393bc52f182@porterscustom.com>

My tube set up mounts to the tail of the trailing arm and then to a L 
plate reinforcement to the body tub..Pretty solid.. 8 new bolts through 
3/8" plate. No chassis involvement. DaveP

Car came to me this way, so no clue about origins..

On 10/11/2025 9:17 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I've been doing a lot of web surfing for videos and info on my problem 
> of the cracked rear cross member caused by replacing the original 
> lever shocks with a tube shock mount. I now see that the problem has 
> been widely discussed, probably here on Triumphs as well as on various 
> forums. I wish I had paid attention earlier. Inasmuch as both shock 
> setups bolt to the same mounting plate on the cross member, I had 
> difficulty understanding why the tube setup should do so much damage 
> compared to the stock lever shocks. Well, I just found an old thread 
> (Ken D, 2018) where one contributer (Walt P) explained a lot with 
> reference to Ken D's photo.
>
> "Ken was concerned about the angle of his lever shock link and 
> wondered if something was wrong. The consensus was that it was 
> probably normal unless the rear spring wasn't seated properly. Walt P 
> offered this great explanation.
>
> Notice the angles in the two lever-shock link-arm photos.
> Now, imagine that a standard Fixed Mounting of a shock absorber/damper 
> was used (between the frame & the TA) to replace the lever-shock & 
> link-arm.
> As the Trailing Arm pivoted through its full movement, would the Fixed 
> Mounted Shock Absorber be able to move- as the Link-Arm did?
> Or, would the Fixed Shock Absorber remain in place and rip apart the 
> relatively fragile frame that it was mounted on?
> Because that is exactly what happens when a Fixed Shock Absorber is 
> used to replace the Lever-Shock.
>
> Something to consider if the idea of a rear shock appeals to you.
>
> Some venders DO sell a replacement shock system that pivots with the 
> TA movement,
> but Others do not.
> Be aware of what you are seeing in the their ads."
>
> Well, I had already installed the tube shocks long before this 
> explanation came out, so I won't kick myself in the ass too hard. Some 
> of you may be interested in another aspect of the "fix" for the 
> cracking problem, namely putting lever shocks back on a new or 
> repaired cross member. I found a great "Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties" 
> Youtube video that showed how to service the original lever shocks.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrBaaLEHpw
> I got out my own old pair, opened them up for the first time, and did 
> what the video showed. It turned out that Yakov's shocks were pretty 
> clean and in good shape. Mine looked bad inside, but I plowed ahead. 
> First, I noticed that each of mine had a grease zerk installed in the 
> cover, but Yakov's had a bolt (as do the new ones I have seen at 
> Moss). Even worse, mine had a load of grease in them and not much 
> else. Who knows who put those on! So maybe that is why my ride was so 
> bad, and that in turn was why I replaced them with the tubes. I wish I 
> had looked inside, but the idea of the tube conversion looked so 
> inviting back then. I soaked the units in degreaser overnight, after 
> drying filled the first one with motorcycle fork oil as per the video, 
> and it now offers great resistance to movement, just as Yakov's did. 
> In a few minutes I head to the garage to do the other one. I think I 
> am going to have two good lever shocks. Now I need to see if my cross 
> member can be removed without too much trouble (the left side is 
> actually unattached to the rail now) and repaired with some welded braces.
>
> Tim
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> From "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>
> To "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date 10/8/2025 4:37:00 PM
> Subject TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>> I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>> 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>> decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly 
>> when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but 
>> no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up 
>> the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member 
>> had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. 
>> I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member 
>> is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount 
>> replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades 
>> ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. 
>> It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone 
>> through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>>
>> That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of 
>> the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few 
>> years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under 
>> a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am 
>> thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is 
>> this really something that can be fixed that way?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>> 	Virus-free.www.avast.com 
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>>
>>
>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com

-- 
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Mon Oct 13 09:56:55 2025
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2025 11:56:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
Message-ID: <B6B5BEC4-6A99-43D8-A1B7-7CBE718FF9B2@gmail.com>

I?m wondering if there is enough clearance to remove the gear selector from the transmission with transmission in the car. 4A and 6 are likely the same. 
Allen 

Very belated update on rear dampers. Put in 10W motorcycle fork oil and I?m satisfied with the result. I was afraid it might be too soft but not so. 


From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Oct 13 17:57:41 2025
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2025 23:57:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] question
Message-ID: <08ede1fca6f941b6bedbe27b6033ce44@ranteer.com>

I have a 58 TR3a, already the engine, dash, driveshaft, and trans are out.

We are thinking of having a club event; invite people over during the day to completely strip the car so I can redo the suspension and send the body out to be dipped and stripped.

Has anyone done an event like that?  We took apart a member's stag a decade or so ago, and that worked really well, but my memory is fuzzy on how we did it.

Ideas please!!!
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Oct 14 05:48:06 2025
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2025 11:48:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] question
In-Reply-To: <08ede1fca6f941b6bedbe27b6033ce44@ranteer.com>
References: <08ede1fca6f941b6bedbe27b6033ce44@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1142159529.2702983.1760442486336@mail.yahoo.com>

I did something similar but in reverse.? I had a small gathering for reassembling a TR6.? I had the frame positioned with all the suspension components for each corner positioned near its respective corner, steering rack, diff, engine/trans nearby.? And I photo documented it.? In two days I went from a bare frame to a rolling chassis with the body attached.
I also had help remounting the body on my TR3.? With no fenders it is an easy three-man job setting it in place.? Since you are taking it off for stripping I recommend taking off the fenders and doors while it is still on the frame.? But you will need to reinforce the door openings to prevent the body from folding in the middle.? I had a couple of pieces of angle iron welded across the door openings which remained in place until after I remounted the body and had the doors installed and the door gaps good.? Also have some sort of support ready?for the body when it comes off.
The rest is pretty self-evident.??
Dave 


 

    On Monday, October 13, 2025 at 07:07:40 PM CDT, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:   

  
I have a 58 TR3a, already the engine, dash, driveshaft, and trans are out.
 
 ?
 
We are thinking of having a club event; invite people over during the day to completely strip the car so I can redo the suspension and send the body out to be dipped and stripped.
 
 ?
 
Has anyone done an event like that?? We took apart a member?s stag a decade or so ago, and that worked really well, but my memory is fuzzy on how we did it.
 
 ?
 
Ideas please!!!
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Oct 14 09:55:25 2025
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2025 15:55:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A door reinforcing
Message-ID: <9bef96a572a944e79b772ae785746a96@ranteer.com>

Does anyone have a set of door reinforcers I can buy/borrow when I take the body off the frame (with the doors already removed)?

I am getting ready to remove the body and need to reinforce the doorways so the body doesn't fold in.
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Tue Oct 14 13:31:20 2025
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2025 12:31:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A door reinforcing
In-Reply-To: <9bef96a572a944e79b772ae785746a96@ranteer.com>
References: <9bef96a572a944e79b772ae785746a96@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <856196459.13848.1760470280712@connect.xfinity.com>

Hi Dave,
I have used 1/2" electrical conduit for this purpose.  Easy to manipulate and inexpensive.  If you have a welder, you can just tack weld to the door openings and perhaps a side to side diagonal support as well.  If a welder is not available, the conduit ends can be pinched/flattened and a hole drilled for a bolt/screw to hold it in place.  You can connect to the upper hinge and convertible top bows attachment locations.  
 
Dave H.

> On 10/14/2025 8:55 AM PDT dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Does anyone have a set of door reinforcers I can buy/borrow when I take the body off the frame (with the doors already removed)?
> 
>  
> 
> I am getting ready to remove the body and need to reinforce the doorways so the body doesn?t fold in.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Oct 14 14:27:49 2025
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2025 20:27:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A door reinforcing
In-Reply-To: <856196459.13848.1760470280712@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <9bef96a572a944e79b772ae785746a96@ranteer.com>,
 <856196459.13848.1760470280712@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <696b4f87856a4fedabb22208f37ee67f@ranteer.com>

So kewl.  I can do that!!!


-------- Original message --------
From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
Date: 10/14/25 2:31 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A door reinforcing

Hi Dave,
I have used 1/2" electrical conduit for this purpose.  Easy to manipulate and inexpensive.  If you have a welder, you can just tack weld to the door openings and perhaps a side to side diagonal support as well.  If a welder is not available, the conduit ends can be pinched/flattened and a hole drilled for a bolt/screw to hold it in place.  You can connect to the upper hinge and convertible top bows attachment locations.

Dave H.
On 10/14/2025 8:55 AM PDT dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:


Does anyone have a set of door reinforcers I can buy/borrow when I take the body off the frame (with the doors already removed)?

I am getting ready to remove the body and need to reinforce the doorways so the body doesn?t fold in.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 15 17:37:11 2025
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2025 23:37:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] question
In-Reply-To: <08ede1fca6f941b6bedbe27b6033ce44@ranteer.com>
References: <08ede1fca6f941b6bedbe27b6033ce44@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CH3P222MB1242737848281BABA7F68F1FB9E8A@CH3P222MB1242.NAMP222.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Dave-

Well I'm always in for a wrench day anytime and local to you.  I've had club friends over a few times when I was working TR3s in Houston and extra hands help if you want to get the body pulled.

Depending on your car though some steps may take a while - the fenders can be tough to take off with the captive nuts not releasing sometimes.  If you do have a group day in my mind it's best to keep the workflow flexible.

Randy
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 13, 2025, at 7:18?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?
I have a 58 TR3a, already the engine, dash, driveshaft, and trans are out.

We are thinking of having a club event; invite people over during the day to completely strip the car so I can redo the suspension and send the body out to be dipped and stripped.

Has anyone done an event like that?  We took apart a member?s stag a decade or so ago, and that worked really well, but my memory is fuzzy on how we did it.

Ideas please!!!
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Oct 16 07:31:25 2025
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 13:31:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
In-Reply-To: <B6B5BEC4-6A99-43D8-A1B7-7CBE718FF9B2@gmail.com>
References: <B6B5BEC4-6A99-43D8-A1B7-7CBE718FF9B2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <213499539.3625768.1760621485473@mail.yahoo.com>

I didn't see a response to this.? The lever itself is easily removed although you will have to remove the boot first.? And probably the yoke.? The rest is part of the transmission cover.? You can pull that, too, but you will need to remove the transmission cover (that big, cardboard (or, in my case, plastic) part).? And make that a maybe.? Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?
Dave 


 

    On Monday, October 13, 2025 at 01:06:26 PM CDT, Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:   

 I?m wondering if there is enough clearance to remove the gear selector from the transmission with transmission in the car. 4A and 6 are likely the same. 
Allen 

Very belated update on rear dampers. Put in 10W motorcycle fork oil and I?m satisfied with the result. I was afraid it might be too soft but not so. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Thu Oct 16 08:44:01 2025
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 10:44:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
In-Reply-To: <213499539.3625768.1760621485473@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <213499539.3625768.1760621485473@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D161AEF7-6EB2-45F0-A884-6AB949DC10A2@gmail.com>

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From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com  Thu Oct 16 09:13:28 2025
From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (Gerald Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 15:13:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
In-Reply-To: <D161AEF7-6EB2-45F0-A884-6AB949DC10A2@gmail.com>
References: <213499539.3625768.1760621485473@mail.yahoo.com>
 <D161AEF7-6EB2-45F0-A884-6AB949DC10A2@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR02MB58051F558B02591BA36FEE5BF6E9A@MN2PR02MB5805.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

The simple answer is yes, you can remove the top cover which has the forks attached. Done it many times on a 4A. You are making this far to complicated.

JVV
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2025 10:44 AM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 gear selector

 Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?
That is really my question, sorry that I didn?t make that clear. I?ll need to get underneath and see if I can estimate the clearance to the tunnel cover and add that to topside to the heater. I have an old transmission that I can take the top off and try to estimate some dimensions. It?s a fair amount of work to get to the last bit only to realize Oh crap, this won?t work.
Allen
On Oct 16, 2025, at 9:31?AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

?
I didn't see a response to this.  The lever itself is easily removed although you will have to remove the boot first.  And probably the yoke.  The rest is part of the transmission cover.  You can pull that, too, but you will need to remove the transmission cover (that big, cardboard (or, in my case, plastic) part).  And make that a maybe.  Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?

Dave




On Monday, October 13, 2025 at 01:06:26 PM CDT, Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:


I?m wondering if there is enough clearance to remove the gear selector from the transmission with transmission in the car. 4A and 6 are likely the same.
Allen

Very belated update on rear dampers. Put in 10W motorcycle fork oil and I?m satisfied with the result. I was afraid it might be too soft but not so.

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Thu Oct 16 12:07:13 2025
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 18:07:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
In-Reply-To: <213499539.3625768.1760621485473@mail.yahoo.com>
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Message-ID: <BY5PR16MB32692FBE7669F10EA9429AABFAE9A@BY5PR16MB3269.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>

There should be room to remove the top cover without removing the heater. No way to avoid removing the transmission cover.

Cliff

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2025, at 11:29?AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

?
I didn't see a response to this.  The lever itself is easily removed although you will have to remove the boot first.  And probably the yoke.  The rest is part of the transmission cover.  You can pull that, too, but you will need to remove the transmission cover (that big, cardboard (or, in my case, plastic) part).  And make that a maybe.  Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?

Dave




On Monday, October 13, 2025 at 01:06:26 PM CDT, Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:


I?m wondering if there is enough clearance to remove the gear selector from the transmission with transmission in the car. 4A and 6 are likely the same.
Allen

Very belated update on rear dampers. Put in 10W motorcycle fork oil and I?m satisfied with the result. I was afraid it might be too soft but not so.

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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 16 13:07:29 2025
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 15:07:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
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 <D161AEF7-6EB2-45F0-A884-6AB949DC10A2@gmail.com>
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Thu Oct 16 15:28:51 2025
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2025 17:28:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 gear selector
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Many years ago when I rebuilt this transmission, I put new springs in the synchro hubs and selector shafts. The shifting effort was greater than the original transmission it replaced. So I want to check the release load on the selector shafts (I can?t say that I have never made a mistake). If it?s the synchro springs the I?ll just live with it. 

Allen

> On Oct 16, 2025, at 3:07?PM, EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> And you?re doing this because??
>  
> Ed Woods

>>> On 10/16/2025 10:44 AM EDT Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?
>> 
>> That is really my question, sorry that I didn?t make that clear. I?ll need to get underneath and see if I can estimate the clearance to the tunnel cover and add that to topside to the heater. I have an old transmission that I can take the top off and try to estimate some dimensions. It?s a fair amount of work to get to the last bit only to realize Oh crap, this won?t work. 
>> Allen
>>> On Oct 16, 2025, at 9:31?AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I didn't see a response to this.  The lever itself is easily removed although you will have to remove the boot first.  And probably the yoke.  The rest is part of the transmission cover.  You can pull that, too, but you will need to remove the transmission cover (that big, cardboard (or, in my case, plastic) part).  And make that a maybe.  Is there enough clearance to pull the shifter forks clear of the synchros with the heater in place?
>>>  
>>> Dave
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