[TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

[brserv at aol.com]

I just had my TR3A rear shocks rebuilt by Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, Wisconsin, and they did a great job on the shocks. You can specify if you want the original dampening, or several levels of higher dampening. Plus, they always machine the opening for the shock lever shaft, and then install a lip seal that will keep the shocks from leaking. I sent them my shocks and it took two weeks to get them back. I think that I paid $130 per shock. 
 AlexL  
In a message dated 10/9/2025 2:30:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gene at garrison-grafixx.com writes: 
Ouch! Tim, I don't have an answer for your welding question, but I want to recommend what I (eventually) did. Back in the 80s, I had a problem with my 6 that I tracked down to the rear shocks not "shocking".  I put on a similar adapter, and was fortunate to never see any cracks.  But it always worried me.  Then, a few years back, I started hearing about an outfit that would rebuild the lever shocks (Apple Hydraulics?  Could look it up when I get home.)  And I figured I'd give it a try.  And I'm very, very happy with the results. Just a thought for when you get to that point. - GeneG On Wed, Oct 8, 2025, at 3:37 PM, Tim Gaines wrote:
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted. That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?       
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