From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Tue Mar  3 08:09:02 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2026 16:09:02 +0100
Subject: [TR] Here's another one I've just uncovered
Message-ID: <trinity-ae72f648-69fc-4d37-bbe4-ef721d5a8b1f-1772550542098@3c-app-mailcom-bs15>

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Fri Mar  6 08:10:41 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2026 16:10:41 +0100
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
Message-ID: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>

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From ckjordan at kc.rr.com  Fri Mar  6 17:33:25 2026
From: ckjordan at kc.rr.com (Keith Jordan)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2026 18:33:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1772823603.10636.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1772823603.10636.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A035A427-5FAE-4A63-8A8D-6CFFEE3C1385@kc.rr.com>

Both stories are well done, JohnMac, and hilarious, to boot. Thank you!

Keith Jordan

> On Mar 6, 2026, at 1:09?PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Another story from back in the day (JOHN MACARTNEY)
> <mime-attachment>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Mar  6 17:58:07 2026
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2026 19:58:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
Message-ID: <00d901dcadcd$76887eb0$63997c10$@charter.net>

Wow! What another great story! Thanks for sharing.

 

Alex Thomson

Connecticut Triumph Register

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of JOHN MACARTNEY
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2026 10:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day

 

An anecdote that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.

 

Jonmac

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  6 19:38:45 2026
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2026 02:38:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <00d901dcadcd$76887eb0$63997c10$@charter.net>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
 <00d901dcadcd$76887eb0$63997c10$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <446854439.6075762.1772851125844@mail.yahoo.com>

 i missed it. was it to all the group?

    On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 05:10:54 PM PST, Alex&Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 
Wow! What another great story! Thanks for sharing.

 ?

Alex Thomson

Connecticut Triumph Register

 ?

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of JOHN MACARTNEY
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2026 10:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day

 ?

An anecdote?that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.

?

Jonmac
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar  7 05:35:09 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2026 12:35:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
Message-ID: <201388110.6120139.1772886909127@mail.yahoo.com>

Another great history of life at Triumph.??
The only thing is there is a need for a little explanation regarding one of the buildings in the map of the site.? Kremlin?!!!
Dave 


 

    On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 09:35:02 AM CST, JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:   

 An anecdote?that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.?Jonmac** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat Mar  7 07:16:58 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2026 14:16:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <201388110.6120139.1772886909127@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
 <201388110.6120139.1772886909127@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F42C431D-EAA5-4304-AC1C-AEE6819FB5A7@gmx.com>

Sorry, my fault. ?The Kremlin? came about in the mid 1950?s and was in use by former CEO, Alice Dick, and a limited number of his cohorts. Constructed at a time when there was some profligacy with company finances. When Leyland bought the company in 1961, it fell into disuse. Rather than demolish it, the decision was taken to use it for odd conferences and as a new car handover point for VIPs. When I knew it, the facility was still rather ostentatious and IMHO, overly opulent for the purposes it didn?t really serve.

JM

> On 7 Mar 2026, at 12:35, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> Another great history of life at Triumph.  
> 
> The only thing is there is a need for a little explanation regarding one of the buildings in the map of the site.  Kremlin?!!!
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 09:35:02 AM CST, JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> An anecdote that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.
>  
> Jonmac
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar  7 09:12:21 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2026 16:12:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <F42C431D-EAA5-4304-AC1C-AEE6819FB5A7@gmx.com>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
 <201388110.6120139.1772886909127@mail.yahoo.com>
 <F42C431D-EAA5-4304-AC1C-AEE6819FB5A7@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <86729195.6162758.1772899942007@mail.yahoo.com>

So you chose Kremlin over Taj Ma Conventry.? A sign of the times, I guess.? What with he cold war in full swing and all.? Were the hoi palloi required to prostrate themselves before entering or were they just barred all together?? Of course that is just a rhetorical question.? We all know the answer.
Many thanks for the remembrances.?
Dave 


 

    On Saturday, March 7, 2026 at 08:17:05 AM CST, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:   

 Sorry, my fault. ?The Kremlin? came about in the mid 1950?s and was in use by former CEO, Alice Dick, and a limited number of his cohorts. Constructed at a time when there was some profligacy with company finances. When Leyland bought the company in 1961, it fell into disuse. Rather than demolish it, the decision was taken to use it for odd conferences and as a new car handover point for VIPs. When I knew it, the facility was still rather ostentatious and IMHO, overly opulent for the purposes it didn?t really serve.
JM
On 7 Mar 2026, at 12:35, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:


Another great history of life at Triumph.??
The only thing is there is a need for a little explanation regarding one of the buildings in the map of the site.? Kremlin?!!!
Dave 


 

    On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 09:35:02 AM CST, JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:   

 An anecdote?that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.?Jonmac** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat Mar  7 11:08:33 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2026 18:08:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <86729195.6162758.1772899942007@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
 <201388110.6120139.1772886909127@mail.yahoo.com>
 <F42C431D-EAA5-4304-AC1C-AEE6819FB5A7@gmx.com>
 <86729195.6162758.1772899942007@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F6BB6ED1-FBFB-4448-B064-E82E3DBC8E75@gmx.com>

??Twas not I that chose the name. Doubt it if anyone now knows. Certainly Cold War epoch and you were usually required to cross yourself before entering. When I put the key numbers to the site buildings, I thought it better to write Social Club, rather than its more usual name of the ?Glue Pot?. Whatever you called it, the number of people emerging from it after the lunch break were mostly seriously the worse for wear with booze - and then went back to operating machinery! Those were the days we recall where ?elf ?n safety was for the birds:)

JM

> On 7 Mar 2026, at 16:12, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> So you chose Kremlin over Taj Ma Conventry.  A sign of the times, I guess.  What with he cold war in full swing and all.  Were the hoi palloi required to prostrate themselves before entering or were they just barred all together?  Of course that is just a rhetorical question.  We all know the answer.
> 
> Many thanks for the remembrances. 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, March 7, 2026 at 08:17:05 AM CST, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Sorry, my fault. ?The Kremlin? came about in the mid 1950?s and was in use by former CEO, Alice Dick, and a limited number of his cohorts. Constructed at a time when there was some profligacy with company finances. When Leyland bought the company in 1961, it fell into disuse. Rather than demolish it, the decision was taken to use it for odd conferences and as a new car handover point for VIPs. When I knew it, the facility was still rather ostentatious and IMHO, overly opulent for the purposes it didn?t really serve.
> 
> JM
> 
>> On 7 Mar 2026, at 12:35, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Another great history of life at Triumph.  
>> 
>> The only thing is there is a need for a little explanation regarding one of the buildings in the map of the site.  Kremlin?!!!
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 09:35:02 AM CST, JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> An anecdote that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.
>>  
>> Jonmac
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Mar  8 08:44:37 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2026 14:44:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] anyone interested
Message-ID: <65a521252382499fa5fbf8ec315704f5@ranteer.com>

I have 2 things I would like to sell:

TR4 head, will work on TR2, TR3, TR3A&B, TR4, TR4A and possibly others.  Has been magnafluxed and pass with flying colors.  $300 plus shipping, located in Dallas, TX.  Can send at buyer's expense or deliver to South Central Vintage Triumph Register in Marble Falls, Texas in late April 2026.  Picture attached

Rear sway bar for TR2, TR3, TR3A&B, TR4, TR4A solid axle.  Never installed, never used, still in brand new condition, includes all mounting hardware.  $150 plus shipping; can deliver to Marble Falls as well.  Picture attached

More pictures available upon request
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From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  8 12:18:11 2026
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (j t)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2026 18:18:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19158.1772981099.12020.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19158.1772981099.12020.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <MN0P220MB1989AF5071122A6BFF3F816BB578A@MN0P220MB1989.NAMP220.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Hello,
I do not see the photo. Please send to me

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of triumphs-request at autox.team.net <triumphs-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2026 10:44:59 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
        triumphs at autox.team.net

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. anyone interested (dave northrup)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2026 14:44:37 +0000
From: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] anyone interested
Message-ID: <65a521252382499fa5fbf8ec315704f5 at ranteer.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have 2 things I would like to sell:

TR4 head, will work on TR2, TR3, TR3A&B, TR4, TR4A and possibly others.  Has been magnafluxed and pass with flying colors.  $300 plus shipping, located in Dallas, TX.  Can send at buyer's expense or deliver to South Central Vintage Triumph Register in Marble Falls, Texas in late April 2026.  Picture attached

Rear sway bar for TR2, TR3, TR3A&B, TR4, TR4A solid axle.  Never installed, never used, still in brand new condition, includes all mounting hardware.  $150 plus shipping; can deliver to Marble Falls as well.  Picture attached

More pictures available upon request
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  9 17:05:08 2026
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2026 23:05:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Another story from back in the day
In-Reply-To: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
References: <trinity-980d345b-2d26-44f1-9b91-155ed35fef6f-1772809840953@3c-app-mailcom-bs13>
Message-ID: <1330545774.6525195.1773097508701@mail.yahoo.com>

 it so remeinds of the days back when i was apreniced in the drawing office.mrs Moor would come around at 10 with the tea cart, she know everyones milk and sugar requirments.same at 11:30 asking who was staying for lunch and agin at 3:00 pm.guys in the shop were always a place of fun.just remembering Billy Pong..not a real name.
love your remisicence .
Frank

    On Friday, March 6, 2026 at 07:37:03 AM PST, JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:  
 
 An anecdote?that no Public Relations professional is ever likely to admit to. Enjoy.?Jonmac** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Tue Mar 10 09:02:38 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2026 15:02:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] More stories
Message-ID: <C237B6C0-F86C-43C9-AEA0-32F3AFF874C7@gmx.com>

Help!

I?ve got an article written many years ago (as most were) about commission numbers and the facts that cars were mostly NOT built in commission number sequence. Trouble is, I can?t remember if I?ve posted it previously. Perhaps a few replies from a number of people would be most useful? Twould be a great help :)

Jonmac

From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Wed Mar 11 06:08:32 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2026 13:08:32 +0100
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
Message-ID: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Wed Mar 11 16:02:55 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2026 22:02:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
In-Reply-To: <CADK3t94wna9Gum6DpW1R8H275084cD3aGghNJf1ctS_XyKUtKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>
 <CADK3t94wna9Gum6DpW1R8H275084cD3aGghNJf1ctS_XyKUtKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F16D2D18-779F-41AE-B629-0174D1AA0AE7@gmx.com>

Jonmac?s long reply.

Dean, 

Thank you for your kind words and I?m glad you found the story of interest. I hope you don?t mind but I?ve copied this reply to the rest of the list as your query touches on one of many similar issues that people periodically ask me to comment on. Hopefully this wider reply might solve a few other related/unrelated queries.
In the overall production process, where badges or odd bits of trim actually got fitted was not necessarily a constant in terms of actual location. To a certain extent, it all depended on the availability of ?qualified? labour to do a certain task. The UK in the sixties, seventies, eighties was hidebound by the power of trade union control. Within the overall motor industry, there was a mass of different unions and union membership was mandatory if you were one of many fishes in a large pool where things were made. Union names that spring to mind are Transport & General Workers, National Union of Vehicle Bodybuilders, General Municipal and Boilermakers, National Union of Teachers, British Electrical, Associated Union Engineering Workers - and many more. All of those were authorised by common and mutual agreement to undertake certain tasks within the production process. One way and another, we had enough people belonging to different unions who, by working together, could somehow contrive to build a complete car.
Re the figment of your badge and letters.
Fred Bloggs who is an NUVB member is paid to fit badges and certain brightwork - and that?s all! One day, Fred isn?t at work because the night before, he spent most of his wages in the pub, went home piddled out of his head and woke up the next morning with the mother of all hangovers, so decided to stay in bed and Mrs Bloggs called the factory to say he was ill. But because Fred is one of only two NUVB members on his workstation where certain badges and brightwork are fitted, his mate has to do Fred?s work as well as his own. As every single assembly task is time measured anyway and piecework pay rates have been abandoned in favour of Measured Day Rate, the NUVB foreman negotiates with other union foremen to run the track slower so Fred?s mate can do both jobs without getting stressed out. To us, the obvious remedy is to get a member of another union to do Fred?s work. 
But you can?t do that. Against union rules. Only NUVB members can do Fred?s work and if there aren?t enough NUVB members on hand, then tough titty. Run the track slower. End of story. It?s amazing we ever managed to make anything at all.
In my days as an Apprentice at Jaguar, I was working on the track one day when I noticed the main plug to a headlamp was dangling in the bodywork and so I put it back and ensured it was firmly fitted - but I got seen by a Shop Steward who immediately stopped the line because a non unionised Apprentice was ?doing the work that should only be done by a member of British Electrical - and no-one else?. The track stopped for over thirty minutes, and boy, did I get bawled out! And that?s how bad it was. If you weren?t in a union, you NEVER used your initiative to sort a problem if you saw one happening or likely to happen. You looked for a man in a white overall with a blue or red collar and told him instead.
So back to the question of who and where were badges fitted? 
Answer, by anyone within the relevant union who happened to notice items were missing. Missing badges and Triumph letters got fitted somewhere, somehow but not necessarily in the location where they *should* be fitted and if the car reached the end of the line without them, a red SHORTAGES label got slapped on the screen and a handwritten note was made on the production tally and shortage list. Somehow, the system seemed to work - sort of - but it was time-consuming, wasteful, inefficient and an absolute effing nuisance.
And because of those practises, that goes a long way to explaining why all the UK car manufacturers of substance today are owned by foreign companies. Same goes almost for our former motorcycle industry, shipbuilding, aircraft, mining and a raft of everything else. The power of the unions and management hierarchies who were terrified of confrontation, caved in and we threw it all away.

JM

> On 11 Mar 2026, at 13:21, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58dean at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> John
>          Thanks for the great article. It sure opens my eyes about the complexity of building so many different
> varieties of the "same car". I have scanned a lot of images that are in the VTR Mike Cook archives and have a
> nice collection of production line images. The ones I have of TR4's being built show that the TR4 emblem on the
> boot lid must have been installed near the end of production. I have attached a few of them and go from the
> rocket room to tops being installed. None have an emblem on the boot. Is that because some were sent out
> with different one's or none? 
> 
>            I really enjoy your articles.
> 
>          Dean Tetterton
>           tr3a58dean at gmail.com
> 
>            
> 
>> On Wed, Mar 11, 2026 at 8:11?AM JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:
>> This is a long one but hopefully opens a few 'new doors' to walk through? Enjoy!
>>  
>> Jonmac
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58dean at gmail.com
> <IMG_20250605_0003.jpg>
> <IMG_20250605_0004.jpg>
> <IMG_20250605_0005.jpg>
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Wed Mar 11 19:50:04 2026
From: keithstewart at bell.net (keithstewart at bell.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2026 21:50:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
In-Reply-To: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>
References: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>
Message-ID: <0a7601dcb1c2$8c660420$a5320c60$@bell.net>

Another great tale about the whole process of getting our cars out the door and on the way to us. Thanks John.

 

 

Keith Stewart

 <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> keithstewart at bell.net

World of Triumph  <https://keith-stewart.ca/> https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

 

From: JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> 
Sent: March 11, 2026 8:09 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article

 

This is a long one but hopefully opens a few 'new doors' to walk through? Enjoy!

 

Jonmac

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 12 05:53:06 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2026 11:53:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
In-Reply-To: <0a7601dcb1c2$8c660420$a5320c60$@bell.net>
References: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>
 <0a7601dcb1c2$8c660420$a5320c60$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <1282690801.311455.1773316386665@mail.yahoo.com>

Indeed, a real eye-opener.? I am familiar with supply line logistics but not on such a scale.? In the electronic PCB business holding stock for months at a time is not an issue with parts that are the size of a grain of rice.? But imaging putting 1,000 transmissions on the shelf.
Hats off to the blokes who pulled it off for so long.
Dave 


 

    On Wednesday, March 11, 2026 at 09:01:10 PM CDT, <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:   

 
Another great tale about the whole process of getting our cars out the door and on the way to us. Thanks John.

 ?

 ?

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

World of Triumph https://keith-stewart.ca/ 

?

From: JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> 
Sent: March 11, 2026 8:09 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article

 ?

This is a long one but hopefully opens a few 'new doors' to walk through??Enjoy!

?

Jonmac
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Thu Mar 12 11:00:57 2026
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2026 17:00:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <emfe07c43b-4ee3-416d-b890-9f172608bc6f@presby.edu>

It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under 
my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I 
must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever 
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The 
Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I 
was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.

First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades 
ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible 
performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on 
the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that 
showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result 
where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they 
are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the 
shops mentioned by others here.

Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that 
had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of 
course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and 
then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the 
channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and 
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut 
from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but 
the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very 
hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The 
killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the 
differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder 
who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick 
weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he 
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that 
point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a 
frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after 
post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.

A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know 
that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. 
"Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the 
process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob 
at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame for 
rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not 
in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have 
been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things 
have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.

There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult 
to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from 
the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc 
nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of 
mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud 
and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely 
tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing 
it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid 
Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, 
applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the 
aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to 
feel that the nut was backing out a little farther on the stud, and it 
did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another 
Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do 
anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller 
with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after 
pulling the hubs in 90 min).

I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to 
slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later 
to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a 
friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick 
cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the 
front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were 
about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the 
back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area 
where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel 
could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from moving 
farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is the only 
flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile 
angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea using my 
saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of 
my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of the way 
and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out 
the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has gone 
well.

Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. 
The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old 
ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through 
the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the 
best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under 
the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old 
cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a 
cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding 
the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each 
frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then 
pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame 
surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be 
positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary 
forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. 
Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the 
welding to the frame.

The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder 
charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe 
$200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is 
more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better 
than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . 
. ?

Tim



------ Original Message ------
>From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>
To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>Virus-free.www.avast.com 
><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Mar 12 18:01:54 2026
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2026 20:01:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
In-Reply-To: <F16D2D18-779F-41AE-B629-0174D1AA0AE7@gmx.com>
References: <trinity-99dcab57-0554-4816-94b3-c487840473ae-1773230912431@3c-app-mailcom-bs07>
 <CADK3t94wna9Gum6DpW1R8H275084cD3aGghNJf1ctS_XyKUtKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <F16D2D18-779F-41AE-B629-0174D1AA0AE7@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <013201dcb27c$9aa585a0$cff090e0$@charter.net>

Wow! Just more examples of how the golden goose was doomed to die. How sad.

Thanks for sharing!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2026 6:03 PM
To: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58dean at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article

 

Jonmac?s long reply.

 

Dean, 

 

Thank you for your kind words and I?m glad you found the story of interest. I hope you don?t mind but I?ve copied this reply to the rest of the list as your query touches on one of many similar issues that people periodically ask me to comment on. Hopefully this wider reply might solve a few other related/unrelated queries.

In the overall production process, where badges or odd bits of trim actually got fitted was not necessarily a constant in terms of actual location. To a certain extent, it all depended on the availability of ?qualified? labour to do a certain task. The UK in the sixties, seventies, eighties was hidebound by the power of trade union control. Within the overall motor industry, there was a mass of different unions and union membership was mandatory if you were one of many fishes in a large pool where things were made. Union names that spring to mind are Transport & General Workers, National Union of Vehicle Bodybuilders, General Municipal and Boilermakers, National Union of Teachers, British Electrical, Associated Union Engineering Workers - and many more. All of those were authorised by common and mutual agreement to undertake certain tasks within the production process. One way and another, we had enough people belonging to different unions who, by working together, could somehow contrive to build a complete car.

Re the figment of your badge and letters.

Fred Bloggs who is an NUVB member is paid to fit badges and certain brightwork - and that?s all! One day, Fred isn?t at work because the night before, he spent most of his wages in the pub, went home piddled out of his head and woke up the next morning with the mother of all hangovers, so decided to stay in bed and Mrs Bloggs called the factory to say he was ill. But because Fred is one of only two NUVB members on his workstation where certain badges and brightwork are fitted, his mate has to do Fred?s work as well as his own. As every single assembly task is time measured anyway and piecework pay rates have been abandoned in favour of Measured Day Rate, the NUVB foreman negotiates with other union foremen to run the track slower so Fred?s mate can do both jobs without getting stressed out. To us, the obvious remedy is to get a member of another union to do Fred?s work. 

But you can?t do that. Against union rules. Only NUVB members can do Fred?s work and if there aren?t enough NUVB members on hand, then tough titty. Run the track slower. End of story. It?s amazing we ever managed to make anything at all.

In my days as an Apprentice at Jaguar, I was working on the track one day when I noticed the main plug to a headlamp was dangling in the bodywork and so I put it back and ensured it was firmly fitted - but I got seen by a Shop Steward who immediately stopped the line because a non unionised Apprentice was ?doing the work that should only be done by a member of British Electrical - and no-one else?. The track stopped for over thirty minutes, and boy, did I get bawled out! And that?s how bad it was. If you weren?t in a union, you NEVER used your initiative to sort a problem if you saw one happening or likely to happen. You looked for a man in a white overall with a blue or red collar and told him instead.

So back to the question of who and where were badges fitted? 

Answer, by anyone within the relevant union who happened to notice items were missing. Missing badges and Triumph letters got fitted somewhere, somehow but not necessarily in the location where they *should* be fitted and if the car reached the end of the line without them, a red SHORTAGES label got slapped on the screen and a handwritten note was made on the production tally and shortage list. Somehow, the system seemed to work - sort of - but it was time-consuming, wasteful, inefficient and an absolute effing nuisance.

And because of those practises, that goes a long way to explaining why all the UK car manufacturers of substance today are owned by foreign companies. Same goes almost for our former motorcycle industry, shipbuilding, aircraft, mining and a raft of everything else. The power of the unions and management hierarchies who were terrified of confrontation, caved in and we threw it all away.

 

JM


On 11 Mar 2026, at 13:21, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58dean at gmail.com <mailto:tr3a58dean at gmail.com> > wrote:

John

         Thanks for the great article. It sure opens my eyes about the complexity of building so many different

varieties of the "same car". I have scanned a lot of images that are in the VTR Mike Cook archives and have a

nice collection of production line images. The ones I have of TR4's being built show that the TR4 emblem on the

boot lid must have been installed near the end of production. I have attached a few of them and go from the

rocket room to tops being installed. None have an emblem on the boot. Is that because some were sent out

with different one's or none? 

 

           I really enjoy your articles.

 

         Dean Tetterton

          tr3a58dean at gmail.com <mailto:tr3a58dean at gmail.com> 

 

           

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2026 at 8:11?AM JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com <mailto:johnbmacartney at gmx.com> > wrote:

This is a long one but hopefully opens a few 'new doors' to walk through? Enjoy!

 

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 13 05:20:53 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 11:20:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <emfe07c43b-4ee3-416d-b890-9f172608bc6f@presby.edu>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <emfe07c43b-4ee3-416d-b890-9f172608bc6f@presby.edu>
Message-ID: <440962620.761024.1773400853603@mail.yahoo.com>

Here's a thought.? Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't use the stock shock mounts at all.? Have you considered that?
Dave 


 

    On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:   

 It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).?
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has gone well.
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?
Tim??
?
------ Original Message ------From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PMSubject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break


I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.
 
 ?
 
Stan
 
 ?
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
 
 ?
 
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
 
 ?
 
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way?
 
 ?
 
?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
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 ?
 
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 13 09:47:01 2026
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 10:47:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$@yahoo.com>
References: <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$.ref@yahoo.com>
 <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>

Hello group, got a head scratcher here.

Scenario:

Last Saturday drove to cars & coffee, ran great until I was about ? way
home.  Started cutting out bad and l limped home on 2 cylinders.

1.	Checked compression 170-175 across all 4
2.	Pulled each plug wire and determined the front two were not running
3.	Laid a plug along side the engine and verified there is spark
4.	Pulled the float bowl top and verified there is fuel, drained it
dry, blew air, let it refill.
5.	Turned the motor and verified the fuel is flowing into the bowl
6.	Covered the intake and fuel splashes back on my hand a higher RPM
7.	Replace the front two plugs, gapped at .034
8.	Checked valves, all are moving properly and adjusted
9.	Verified that the butterfly is opening
10.	? tank of gas.

 

Any other suggestions greatly appreciated before I go out back and shoot
myself in the head?

 

Many thanks,

Bill B

TS30766L

 

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Mar 13 14:30:47 2026
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 15:30:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>
References: <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$.ref@yahoo.com>
 <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$@yahoo.com>
 <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <e197478b-0314-4cc6-a828-400246b6f410@tonydrews.com>

Can you try squirting fuel into the carb for the cylinders which aren't 
firing?? Sometimes the connection between the float bowl and the jet 
gets clogged.? Could maybe pull the carb top and piston and blow air 
backwards through that.

My dad had an issue where a little piece of the rubber line from the 
float bowl to the jet hung down in the inner hole and acted like a 
one-way valve.? Had him scratching his head for a while on that one.

- Tony

On 3/13/2026 10:47 AM, Notakitcar wrote:
>
> *Hello group, got a head scratcher here.*
>
> *Scenario:*
>
> *Last Saturday drove to cars & coffee, ran great until I was about ? 
> way home.? Started cutting out bad and l limped home on 2 cylinders.*
>
>  1. *Checked compression 170-175 across all 4*
>  2. *Pulled each plug wire and determined the front two were not running*
>  3. *Laid a plug along side the engine and verified there is spark*
>  4. *Pulled the float bowl top and verified there is fuel, drained it
>     dry, blew air, let it refill.*
>  5. *Turned the motor and verified the fuel is flowing into the bowl*
>  6. *Covered the intake and fuel splashes back on my hand a higher RPM*
>  7. *Replace the front two plugs, gapped at .034*
>  8. *Checked valves, all are moving properly and adjusted*
>  9. *Verified that the butterfly is opening*
> 10. *? tank of gas.*
>
> **
>
> *Any other suggestions greatly appreciated before I go out back and 
> shoot myself in the head?*
>
> **
>
> *Many thanks,*
>
> *Bill B*
>
> *TS30766L*
>
> **
>
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From lherault at verizon.net  Fri Mar 13 14:42:38 2026
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L"Herault)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 16:42:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Running on 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1773424803.3482.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1773424803.3482.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003f01dcb329$eee30a40$cca91ec0$@verizon.net>

Did you confirm that the carb feeding those cylinders was functioning as
intended?  I believe that Carburetor is a French word meaning "don't touch
it" but I think if the piston stuck down that would cut off fuel, non?

Ron L

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
triumphs-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2026 2:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 49

Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
	triumphs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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"Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: "Inside Track on How It was Done" article (Alex&Janet Thomson)
   2. Re: TR6 rear shock mount break (DAVID MASSEY)
   3. Re: TR3 running on 2 (Notakitcar)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2026 20:01:54 -0400
From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: "'John Macartney'" <johnbmacartney at gmx.com>, "'Dean Tetterton'"
	<tr3a58dean at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article
Message-ID: <013201dcb27c$9aa585a0$cff090e0$@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Wow! Just more examples of how the golden goose was doomed to die. How sad.

Thanks for sharing!

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2026 6:03 PM
To: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58dean at gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] "Inside Track on How It was Done" article

 

Jonmac?s long reply.

 

Dean, 

 

Thank you for your kind words and I?m glad you found the story of interest.
I hope you don?t mind but I?ve copied this reply to the rest of the list as
your query touches on one of many similar issues that people periodically
ask me to comment on. Hopefully this wider reply might solve a few other
related/unrelated queries.

In the overall production process, where badges or odd bits of trim actually
got fitted was not necessarily a constant in terms of actual location. To a
certain extent, it all depended on the availability of ?qualified? labour to
do a certain task. The UK in the sixties, seventies, eighties was hidebound
by the power of trade union control. Within the overall motor industry,
there was a mass of different unions and union membership was mandatory if
you were one of many fishes in a large pool where things were made. Union
names that spring to mind are Transport & General Workers, National Union of
Vehicle Bodybuilders, General Municipal and Boilermakers, National Union of
Teachers, British Electrical, Associated Union Engineering Workers - and
many more. All of those were authorised by common and mutual agreement to
undertake certain tasks within the production process. One way and another,
we had enough people belonging to different unions who, by working together,
could somehow cont  rive to build a complete car.

Re the figment of your badge and letters.

Fred Bloggs who is an NUVB member is paid to fit badges and certain
brightwork - and that?s all! One day, Fred isn?t at work because the night
before, he spent most of his wages in the pub, went home piddled out of his
head and woke up the next morning with the mother of all hangovers, so
decided to stay in bed and Mrs Bloggs called the factory to say he was ill.
But because Fred is one of only two NUVB members on his workstation where
certain badges and brightwork are fitted, his mate has to do Fred?s work as
well as his own. As every single assembly task is time measured anyway and
piecework pay rates have been abandoned in favour of Measured Day Rate, the
NUVB foreman negotiates with other union foremen to run the track slower so
Fred?s mate can do both jobs without getting stressed out. To us, the
obvious remedy is to get a member of another union to do Fred?s work. 

But you can?t do that. Against union rules. Only NUVB members can do Fred?s
work and if there aren?t enough NUVB members on hand, then tough titty. Run
the track slower. End of story. It?s amazing we ever managed to make
anything at all.

In my days as an Apprentice at Jaguar, I was working on the track one day
when I noticed the main plug to a headlamp was dangling in the bodywork and
so I put it back and ensured it was firmly fitted - but I got seen by a Shop
Steward who immediately stopped the line because a non unionised Apprentice
was ?doing the work that should only be done by a member of British
Electrical - and no-one else?. The track stopped for over thirty minutes,
and boy, did I get bawled out! And that?s how bad it was. If you weren?t in
a union, you NEVER used your initiative to sort a problem if you saw one
happening or likely to happen. You looked for a man in a white overall with
a blue or red collar and told him instead.

So back to the question of who and where were badges fitted? 

Answer, by anyone within the relevant union who happened to notice items
were missing. Missing badges and Triumph letters got fitted somewhere,
somehow but not necessarily in the location where they *should* be fitted
and if the car reached the end of the line without them, a red SHORTAGES
label got slapped on the screen and a handwritten note was made on the
production tally and shortage list. Somehow, the system seemed to work -
sort of - but it was time-consuming, wasteful, inefficient and an absolute
effing nuisance.

And because of those practises, that goes a long way to explaining why all
the UK car manufacturers of substance today are owned by foreign companies.
Same goes almost for our former motorcycle industry, shipbuilding, aircraft,
mining and a raft of everything else. The power of the unions and management
hierarchies who were terrified of confrontation, caved in and we threw it
all away.

 

JM


On 11 Mar 2026, at 13:21, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58dean at gmail.com
<mailto:tr3a58dean at gmail.com> > wrote:

John

         Thanks for the great article. It sure opens my eyes about the
complexity of building so many different

varieties of the "same car". I have scanned a lot of images that are in the
VTR Mike Cook archives and have a

nice collection of production line images. The ones I have of TR4's being
built show that the TR4 emblem on the

boot lid must have been installed near the end of production. I have
attached a few of them and go from the

rocket room to tops being installed. None have an emblem on the boot. Is
that because some were sent out

with different one's or none? 

 

           I really enjoy your articles.

 

         Dean Tetterton

          tr3a58dean at gmail.com <mailto:tr3a58dean at gmail.com> 

 

           

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2026 at 8:11?AM JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com
<mailto:johnbmacartney at gmx.com> > wrote:

This is a long one but hopefully opens a few 'new doors' to walk through?
Enjoy!

 

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 11:20:53 +0000 (UTC)
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
To: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>, Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>,
	Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
Message-ID: <440962620.761024.1773400853603 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Here's a thought.? Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't use
the stock shock mounts at all.? Have you considered that?
Dave 


 

    On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines
<mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:   

 It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under my
TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must
have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued
with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph
Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was
discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ago
and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. They
were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties"
site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them. I
did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was needed to
move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if not
I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had
appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I
thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld
them in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to
then add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer
surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did
get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle
is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my
hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther
up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local
welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick
weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he thought
the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that point because
I just could  n't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job to
install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clearing
and tree work had depleted our accounts.
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that
the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the
instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded
very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got
some good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before
proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but
it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following
the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who
might be thinking of the same solution.
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to
do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the
trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts
holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came
out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit
re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared
stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several
hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and
then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a
torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It
seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a
little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm
threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the
hubs (no need to do an  ything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I
borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got
it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).?
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice
the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a frame
collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Makita
electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel for
the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old
cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took less
than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were
hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only
about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle
grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly
discouraging, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided
by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I
finally hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo
metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of my own to  ols at hand). It did a
good job of cutting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have
used a grinding wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some
of the cuts, and that has gone well.
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The
hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones
worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the
trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best
thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff,
remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then
lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles
and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is
an easily accessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a
minute to cut through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be
more grinding to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross
member. That cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up
into the 2 stationary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily
movable new cross. Ingenious! At tha  t point my nearby pro welder has
agreed to do the welding to the frame.
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder
charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200
or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I
thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an
iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?
Tim??
?
------ Original Message ------From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>To "Tim
Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>Date
10/8/2025 5:37:30 PMSubject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break


I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off
the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever
arm schocks.
 
 ?
 
Stan
 
 ?
 
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
 
 ?
 
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to
sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the
spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I
finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed
the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after
market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts
catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering
if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a
couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that
frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who
have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
 
 ?
 
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross
member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have
a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't
like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro
welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be
fixed that way?
 
 ?
 
?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
| 

  |
Virus-free.www.avast.com
  |


 ?
 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 10:47:01 -0500
From: "Notakitcar" <notakitcar at yahoo.com>
To: "'Triumps On TeamNet'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 running on 2
Message-ID: <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello group, got a head scratcher here.

Scenario:

Last Saturday drove to cars & coffee, ran great until I was about ? way
home.  Started cutting out bad and l limped home on 2 cylinders.

1.	Checked compression 170-175 across all 4
2.	Pulled each plug wire and determined the front two were not running
3.	Laid a plug along side the engine and verified there is spark
4.	Pulled the float bowl top and verified there is fuel, drained it
dry, blew air, let it refill.
5.	Turned the motor and verified the fuel is flowing into the bowl
6.	Covered the intake and fuel splashes back on my hand a higher RPM
7.	Replace the front two plugs, gapped at .034
8.	Checked valves, all are moving properly and adjusted
9.	Verified that the butterfly is opening
10.	? tank of gas.

 

Any other suggestions greatly appreciated before I go out back and shoot
myself in the head?

 

Many thanks,

Bill B

TS30766L

 

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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 19, Issue 49
****************************************


From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Mar 13 15:00:39 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 21:00:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] windshield washer on TR3
In-Reply-To: <e197478b-0314-4cc6-a828-400246b6f410@tonydrews.com>
References: <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$.ref@yahoo.com>
 <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$@yahoo.com>
 <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>
 <e197478b-0314-4cc6-a828-400246b6f410@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <8dda6195f0f54f3aa82fa2728853e929@ranteer.com>

I just read that some cars supposedly came with a windshield washer attachment of some kind.  I?ve poked around and I?m thinking that was a dealer installed accessory?

Can anyone shed light on that?  My car has a single nozzle installed in the center of the hood near the vents.  And a pump thingee at the dash
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Mar 13 15:13:37 2026
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 21:13:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 leaf springs
Message-ID: <d69d625d2bd34be5a327da1ea5e276b6@ranteer.com>

Has anyone upgrade to competition springs?  Like em?  Hate em?  Where did you get them?

I'm planning to just drive my car around, no autocross, racing, or such.
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Mar 13 15:13:38 2026
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 16:13:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 running on 2
In-Reply-To: <e197478b-0314-4cc6-a828-400246b6f410@tonydrews.com>
References: <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$.ref@yahoo.com>
 <000001dcb2fe$4c3a51c0$e4aef540$@yahoo.com>
 <001401dcb300$a2bd5040$e837f0c0$@yahoo.com>
 <e197478b-0314-4cc6-a828-400246b6f410@tonydrews.com>
Message-ID: <0559f7b1-85dd-4ca0-9f8e-86ab2325a338@tonydrews.com>

Re-reading this, number 6 seems to cover the "is it getting gas" issue.? 
Still, maybe a squirt of starter fluid in the front carb to see if it 
starts running on the front cylinders could help diagnose.? Could be 
float stuck open flooding the front cylinders - I'd think you'd notice 
dripping gas but maybe not.? It's possible to have spark but it's "weak" 
so will spark in ambient pressure (plug laying on the valve cover) but 
not under pressure. Then points / condensor / coil is the path.? Seems 
unlikely that is would do that for only two cylinders though.? Front two 
cylinders affected sound like something going on with front carb.

- Tony

On 3/13/2026 3:30 PM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> Can you try squirting fuel into the carb for the cylinders which 
> aren't firing?? Sometimes the connection between the float bowl and 
> the jet gets clogged.? Could maybe pull the carb top and piston and 
> blow air backwards through that.
>
> My dad had an issue where a little piece of the rubber line from the 
> float bowl to the jet hung down in the inner hole and acted like a 
> one-way valve.? Had him scratching his head for a while on that one.
>
> - Tony
>
> On 3/13/2026 10:47 AM, Notakitcar wrote:
>>
>> *Hello group, got a head scratcher here.*
>>
>> *Scenario:*
>>
>> *Last Saturday drove to cars & coffee, ran great until I was about ? 
>> way home.? Started cutting out bad and l limped home on 2 cylinders.*
>>
>>  1. *Checked compression 170-175 across all 4*
>>  2. *Pulled each plug wire and determined the front two were not running*
>>  3. *Laid a plug along side the engine and verified there is spark*
>>  4. *Pulled the float bowl top and verified there is fuel, drained it
>>     dry, blew air, let it refill.*
>>  5. *Turned the motor and verified the fuel is flowing into the bowl*
>>  6. *Covered the intake and fuel splashes back on my hand a higher RPM*
>>  7. *Replace the front two plugs, gapped at .034*
>>  8. *Checked valves, all are moving properly and adjusted*
>>  9. *Verified that the butterfly is opening*
>> 10. *? tank of gas.*
>>
>> **
>>
>> *Any other suggestions greatly appreciated before I go out back and 
>> shoot myself in the head?*
>>
>> **
>>
>> *Many thanks,*
>>
>> *Bill B*
>>
>> *TS30766L*
>>
>> **
>>
>>
>> **triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Mar 13 17:18:00 2026
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 17:18:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] Short video
Message-ID: <a070076d-8ce2-484d-a87b-0485ac573c0e@bradakis.com>


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9M6OMZIdad4


mjb.



From mbarre at juno.com  Sat Mar 14 09:12:51 2026
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2026 15:12:51 GMT
Subject: [TR] Short video
Message-ID: <20260314.111251.13306.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>

Fabulous video but I was half expecting them to get it running ala "Roadworthy Rescues!"


---------- Original Message ----------
From: Mark Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Short video
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 17:18:00 -0600



https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9M6OMZIdad4


mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com


From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Sat Mar 14 11:21:33 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2026 17:21:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?QW5vdGhlciDigJhzZW5pb3IgbW9tZW504oCZ?=
Message-ID: <D8177784-70F7-4C83-B9FC-07E31C219CBF@gmx.com>

Sorry to bomb all of you but I?ve fallen into a hole of my own digging!

Within the last two weeks, one of the stories I posted for your review (I?m not saying for your enjoyment) mentioned the twelve overseas manufacturing plants for S-T with their numerical code prefixes. I?m corresponding off-list with another enthusiast who wants to know the numbers and the locations to which they refer. 
Can I find that article? 
Can I hell!
In the unlikely event one of you kept that material and recalls its title, could you let me know, please? I?ve got so much stuff on my hard disk that finding what I wrote some years ago is proving fruitless, a pain the proverbial and getting me nowhere rather fast :( Sorry and apologies

Jonmac

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar 14 15:26:31 2026
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2026 21:26:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?QW5vdGhlciDigJhzZW5pb3IgbW9tZW504oCZ?=
In-Reply-To: <D8177784-70F7-4C83-B9FC-07E31C219CBF@gmx.com>
References: <D8177784-70F7-4C83-B9FC-07E31C219CBF@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <1532940383.1225824.1773523591182@mail.yahoo.com>

We hang on your every word, John.
Dave 


 

    On Saturday, March 14, 2026 at 12:53:06 PM CDT, John Macartney <johnbmacartney at gmx.com> wrote:   

 Sorry to bomb all of you but I?ve fallen into a hole of my own digging!

Within the last two weeks, one of the stories I posted for your review (I?m not saying for your enjoyment) mentioned the twelve overseas manufacturing plants for S-T with their numerical code prefixes. I?m corresponding off-list with another enthusiast who wants to know the numbers and the locations to which they refer. 
Can I find that article? 
Can I hell!
In the unlikely event one of you kept that material and recalls its title, could you let me know, please? I?ve got so much stuff on my hard disk that finding what I wrote some years ago is proving fruitless, a pain the proverbial and getting me nowhere rather fast :( Sorry and apologies

Jonmac
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Mar 14 15:32:20 2026
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2026 15:32:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?QW5vdGhlciDigJhzZW5pb3IgbW9tZW504oCZ?=
In-Reply-To: <D8177784-70F7-4C83-B9FC-07E31C219CBF@gmx.com>
References: <D8177784-70F7-4C83-B9FC-07E31C219CBF@gmx.com>
Message-ID: <9bfc8857-4c25-47fe-ba9b-b7245f632fee@bradakis.com>

On 3/14/26 11:21 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> Sorry to bomb all of you but I?ve fallen into a hole of my own digging!
> 
> Within the last two weeks, one of the stories I posted for your review (I?m not saying for your enjoyment) mentioned the twelve overseas manufacturing plants for S-T with their numerical code prefixes. I?m corresponding off-list with another enthusiast who wants to know the numbers and the locations to which they refer.

I did find this info from "The Inside Track" article, but it is hardly 
all twelve!

mjb.

ps: I do wonder just how close to being one of the earlier cars in the 
States my TR6, CC25067 really was.

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From pryner at outlook.com  Sat Mar 14 15:41:07 2026
From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2026 21:41:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] British magazines available
Message-ID: <IA3PR07MB117494F26E3D1988BCF072FD4DE42A@IA3PR07MB11749.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

All,
Cleaning out my office and found a stack of Vintage Triumph magazines as well as a stack of British Car and Classic Motorsports.
TVT starts at #30 through #106 but there are multiple missing issues. 54 magazines total.
British Car starts at Dec 93 with 8 issues to F/M 96. Then F/M 97 through A/M 2003 with one missing issue J/J 2000.
Classic Motorsports (formally BC), premier issue Jul 03 (#103) through #108 then 15 issues between #110 through #133.
Free for mailing cost or pick up in the Tampa area. Pm is pryner at outlook.com<mailto:pryner at outlook.com>
Pete

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From johnbmacartney at gmx.com  Mon Mar 16 07:16:51 2026
From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2026 14:16:51 +0100
Subject: [TR] Uk-huh. It's just a Triumph sedan.
Message-ID: <trinity-da8b490b-dc16-40e9-9e06-79b1aa3120d8-1773667011141@3c-app-mailcom-bs11>

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From jhassall at gmail.com  Mon Mar 16 07:46:02 2026
From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2026 09:46:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uk-huh. It's just a Triumph sedan.
In-Reply-To: <trinity-da8b490b-dc16-40e9-9e06-79b1aa3120d8-1773667011141@3c-app-mailcom-bs11>
References: <trinity-da8b490b-dc16-40e9-9e06-79b1aa3120d8-1773667011141@3c-app-mailcom-bs11>
Message-ID: <CAO=iLWZ2n_1ZUgc4HmjgSkdPOZzs=5XvuwSwWe47bqMbKUoywQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you John.  As always, an interesting read.  Keep up the good work.

jim

On Mon, Mar 16, 2026 at 9:29?AM JOHN MACARTNEY <johnbmacartney at gmx.com>
wrote:

> Advance apologies for this attachment. It'll probably bore most of you to
> death because the content isn't TR, GT6 or Spitfire related....
>
> Jonmac
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall at gmail.com
>


-- 
jim  W4BEA
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Mar 16 08:35:59 2026
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2026 10:35:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uk-huh. It's just a Triumph sedan.
In-Reply-To: <trinity-da8b490b-dc16-40e9-9e06-79b1aa3120d8-1773667011141@3c-app-mailcom-bs11>
References: <trinity-da8b490b-dc16-40e9-9e06-79b1aa3120d8-1773667011141@3c-app-mailcom-bs11>
Message-ID: <006001dcb552$355b64c0$a0122e40$@charter.net>

Another great story!

Thanks.

 

Alex Thomson

Connecticut Triumph Register

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of JOHN MACARTNEY
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2026 9:17 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Uk-huh. It's just a Triumph sedan.

 

Advance apologies for this attachment. It'll probably bore most of you to death because the content isn't TR, GT6 or Spitfire related....

 

Jonmac

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 17 18:07:19 2026
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2026 19:07:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hinged nose TR3
References: <6BCE31F8-2105-415A-A3CB-DA95D1514401.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6BCE31F8-2105-415A-A3CB-DA95D1514401@yahoo.com>

Does anyone recall a guy years ago that engineered a hinge system for his TR3 nose piece? It tipped forward much like the Spitfire. I know I saw a picture back then but coming up empty on Google.  

Thanks 
Bill B
TS30766L

?The harder I work, the luckier I get?  H. Ford
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From billbrewer59 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 18 12:58:18 2026
From: billbrewer59 at yahoo.com (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2026 11:58:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hinged nose TR3
In-Reply-To: <6BCE31F8-2105-415A-A3CB-DA95D1514401@yahoo.com>
References: <6BCE31F8-2105-415A-A3CB-DA95D1514401.ref@yahoo.com>
 <6BCE31F8-2105-415A-A3CB-DA95D1514401@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <df64711b-13a9-4807-8b88-448425033890@yahoo.com>

Hi Bill,

 ? ? ?I saved this photo from the distant past somewhere. Is this what 
you were thinking?

 ? ? ?I also saw a photo of a car in France once where the fenders, hood 
and front end were all one unit and tilted up. It looked great. Might 
have been fiberglass though.

 ? ? ?-Bill Brewer

 ? ? ?Morro Bay, CA


On 3/17/2026 5:07 PM, bill beecher wrote:
> Does anyone recall a guy years ago that engineered a hinge system for 
> his TR3 nose piece? It tipped forward much like the Spitfire. I know I 
> saw a picture back then but coming up empty on Google.
>
> Thanks
> Bill B
> TS30766L
>
> ?The harder I work, the luckier I get? ?H. Ford
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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed Mar 18 15:17:46 2026
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2026 21:17:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <440962620.761024.1773400853603@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <emfe07c43b-4ee3-416d-b890-9f172608bc6f@presby.edu>
 <440962620.761024.1773400853603@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <eme16866a6-1fc8-4b81-b312-99844cc9ba12@presby.edu>


Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would 
be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the 
replacement cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would 
have to come out either way, and since I have already refurbished the 
lever shocks, well  .  .  .  .  I realize that RATCO has improved the 
geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube 
conversion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me 
that the design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The 
ball joint in the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes 
the travel of the rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the 
tubes in the conversion, connect) without putting lateral pressure on 
the cross member. That is my thinking anyway.

And for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit 
installation I started last week:

Today was a good day in the garage. After several days with nasty 
weather and then some more with other demands, I lowered the jack under 
the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" formed by the 2 half 
axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short welds holding 
the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rails. I was 
then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to clear 
the diff and then slide the whole cross out.

The photos tell a sad tale:
(1) Rear side:  Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was 
gone and small cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those 
connections on the right.
(2) Rear side again:  I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing 
metal in my original (aborted) plan.
(3) Front side:  The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.

The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do 
anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground smooth, 
and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the frame 
clean and shiny for the welds to come.

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "DAVID MASSEY" <dave1massey at cs.com>
To "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>; "Triumphs" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Tim Gaines" on either<mtgaines at presby.edu>
Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM
Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>Here's a thought.  Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't 
>use the stock shock mounts at all.  Have you considered that?
>
>Dave
>
>
>On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines 
><mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:
>
>
>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of 
>under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. 
>Somehow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember 
>if I ever continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over 
>to "The Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and 
>though I was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my 
>choices.
>
>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of 
>decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible 
>performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on 
>the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that 
>showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar 
>result where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really 
>think they are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by 
>one of the shops mentioned by others here.
>
>Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that 
>had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of 
>course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and 
>then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the 
>channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and 
>then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut 
>from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but 
>the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very 
>hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The 
>killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the 
>differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder 
>who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick 
>weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he 
>thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that 
>point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a 
>frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after 
>post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.
>
>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know 
>that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. 
>"Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the 
>process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob 
>at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame 
>for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks 
>was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I 
>have been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how 
>things have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.
>
>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult 
>to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles 
>from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 
>nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but 
>one of mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and 
>that stud and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was 
>extremely tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm 
>by forcing it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of 
>spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the 
>surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have 
>been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed 
>interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a 
>little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud 
>and arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply 
>pull out the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were 
>stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance 
>Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).
>
>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to 
>slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later 
>to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a 
>friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" 
>thick cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on 
>the front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame 
>were about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on 
>the back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk 
>area where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting 
>wheel could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from 
>moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is 
>the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are 
>low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea 
>using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do 
>have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the 
>rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding 
>wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, 
>and that has gone well.
>
>Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. 
>The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old 
>ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through 
>the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is 
>the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack 
>under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the 
>old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into 
>a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left 
>holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on 
>each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and 
>then pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the 
>frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will 
>be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary 
>forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new 
>cross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do 
>the welding to the frame.
>
>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The 
>welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. 
>Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. 
>That is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much 
>better than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage 
>until . . . ?
>
>Tim
>
>
>
>------ Original Message ------
>From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com>
>To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>; "Triumphs" 
><triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>>to lever arm schocks.
>>
>>
>>
>>Stan
>>
>>
>>
>>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim 
>>Gaines
>>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>>To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>>
>>
>>
>>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I 
>>did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is 
>>not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount 
>>replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades 
>>ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It 
>>occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone 
>>through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>>
>>
>>
>>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few 
>>years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a 
>>car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am 
>>thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is 
>>this really something that can be fixed that way?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>
>>Virus-free.www.avast.com 
>><https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>
>>
>>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Mar 18 16:08:54 2026
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2026 18:08:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
In-Reply-To: <eme16866a6-1fc8-4b81-b312-99844cc9ba12@presby.edu>
References: <emd5c8a763-1113-4af3-8e7c-15365916cecd@0baed868.com>
 <SJ0PR05MB77863CABC3CB1760ED22525DFEE1A@SJ0PR05MB7786.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <emfe07c43b-4ee3-416d-b890-9f172608bc6f@presby.edu>
 <440962620.761024.1773400853603@mail.yahoo.com>
 <eme16866a6-1fc8-4b81-b312-99844cc9ba12@presby.edu>
Message-ID: <00e401dcb723$cfd826a0$6f8873e0$@charter.net>

Wow! Those pictures paint a dismal situation. Good luck with whatever direction you go in. Thanks for your detailed descriptions.

 

Alex Thomson

'73 TR6

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2026 5:18 PM
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

 

 

Dave, I did check the Coil-Over kit, but it looked as if the job would be a good deal more demanding than than the one I'm into with the replacement cross member. That old cross with the shock mounts would have to come out either way, and since I have already refurbished the lever shocks, well  .  .  .  .  I realize that RATCO has improved the geometry of the shock system with the Coil-Over compared to the tube conversion that probably tore my cross member apart, but it seems to me that the design of the original lever shocks is as good or better. The ball joint in the levers allows them to follow the arc that describes the travel of the rear of the trailing arms (where the levers, or the tubes in the conversion, connect) without putting lateral pressure on the cross member. That is my thinking anyway.

 

And for anyone interested in the description of the RATCO Tower Kit installation I started last week:

 

Today was a good day in the garage. After several days with nasty weather and then some more with other demands, I lowered the jack under the diff so it could move down to its "cradle" formed by the 2 half axles and the drive shaft. I then cut through the short welds holding the left and right ends of the cross member to the frame rails. I was then able to lever the the cross up far enough for its studs to clear the diff and then slide the whole cross out.

 

The photos tell a sad tale: 

(1) Rear side:  Some of the metal that connected to the left rail was gone and small cracks are above that. I had to (straight) cut those connections on the right.

(2) Rear side again:  I had fabricated a patch to replace the missing metal in my original (aborted) plan.

(3) Front side:  The unreachable crack that scuttled the original plan.

 

The new kit has not shipped yet, but I still have some work to do anyway. The old welds on the frame I cut today need to be ground smooth, and then I need to used a flap wheel on the grinder to get the frame clean and shiny for the welds to come. 

 

Tim

 

------ Original Message ------

>From "DAVID MASSEY" <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >

To "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com <mailto:stan at redtr6.com> >; "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >; "Tim Gaines" on either<mtgaines at presby.edu <mailto:mtgaines at presby.edu> >

Date 3/13/2026 7:20:53 AM

Subject Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

 

Here's a thought.  Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't use the stock shock mounts at all.  Have you considered that?

 

Dave 

 

 

On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu <mailto:mtgaines at presby.edu> > wrote: 

 

 

It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.

 

First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.

 

Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.

 

A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.

 

There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min). 

 

I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has gone well.

 

Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.

 

The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?

 

Tim  

 

 

 

------ Original Message ------

>From "Stan Foster" <stan at redtr6.com <mailto:stan at redtr6.com> >

To "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu <mailto:mtgaines at presby.edu> >; "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >

Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM

Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

 

I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.

 

Stan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

 

I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted. 

 

That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can be fixed that way? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 18 18:54:28 2026
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2026 19:54:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hinged nose TR3
In-Reply-To: <df64711b-13a9-4807-8b88-448425033890@yahoo.com>
References: <df64711b-13a9-4807-8b88-448425033890@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DDA44CE1-42AF-4D26-868A-89B1DEBD4D7E@yahoo.com>

Bill,
Thanks, that?s the setup I was thinking of.  Not that picture so there are at least two of them out here. 
Many thanks,
Bill

?The harder I work, the luckier I get?  H. Ford

On Mar 18, 2026, at 1:58?PM, William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com> wrote:

?
Hi Bill,

     I saved this photo from the distant past somewhere. Is this what you were thinking?

     I also saw a photo of a car in France once where the fenders, hood and front end were all one unit and tilted up. It looked great. Might have been fiberglass though.

     -Bill Brewer

     Morro Bay, CA



On 3/17/2026 5:07 PM, bill beecher wrote:
> Does anyone recall a guy years ago that engineered a hinge system for his TR3 nose piece? It tipped forward much like the Spitfire. I know I saw a picture back then but coming up empty on Google.  
> 
> Thanks 
> Bill B
> TS30766L
> 
> ?The harder I work, the luckier I get?  H. Ford
<Tilting Front End.JPEG>
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