[Vintage-race] Need advice on lifts

[Craig Wright]

I installed a 4 post lift last summer and just starting to install a 2 
post lift tomorrow. I picked it up at the terminal using a flatbed 
trailer. They will load it on your trailer and you have to tie it down. 
Car tie downs work well. It is packaged very well and easy to 
disassemble while on the trailer. You can then remove it from the 
trailer piece at a time. The heaviest piece on the 4 post are the ramps, 
they are about 400 lbs each and will take 4 average guys. I use two 
friends and an engine hoist that I operated, it worked very well.

The two post lift's heaviest parts are the posts. They are also about 
400-500 lbs each, and I use the same process for dismantling. The Bend 
Pak 10,000 lb two post lift requires 4 in min thickness concrete with  
3000 psi rating.  Here is a link to the install manual, 
http://www.asedeals.com/XPR10-Series-Manual-REVC.pdf.

The handiest lift is the 4 post with a rolling jack between the ramps. 
It has an air operated scissors jack that can easily lift either the 
front or rear axle off the lift for wheel removal, brake work, cleaning, 
whatever. It is rated at 7000 lbs so there is lots of margin. I use this 
lift and feature all the time.

Craig Wright

Eric J Russell wrote:
> A lift is on my Soon List, also. There are advantages & disadvantages 
> to either. I am planning on a four post lift as it will be primarily 
> for storage & occasionally for service. A two post lift is touted as 
> better for service but less so for storage.
>
> A four post lift typically needs only a 'standard' concrete garage 
> floor (3"-4" thick IIRC). Some two post lifts require slightly 
> stronger/thicker floors (5" - 6"). A few two post lifts require much 
> stronger/thicker floors (10" -12") - at least where the lift bolts to 
> the floor. I believe that depends on how much weight it will be 
> capable of lifting and how far 'off balance' that weight will be.
>
> You can specify 'high lift' garage door tracks that will put the 
> tracks (& door) close to ceiling height. A jack shaft door opener 
> mounts against the wall next to the top of the door (either side) and 
> operates a torsion spring mounted on the wall above the door (instead 
> of tension springs that mount above the tracks). That will avoid 
> having a door opener hanging in the space where you wish to lift up a 
> vehicle. I have
> LiftMaster 3800 door openers.
>
> There are lots of lift BTDT's (and opinions...) if you browse the 
> forums at www.garagejournal.com (be forewarned, that web site can be 
> addicting...).
>
> When you are comparing prices be sure to include shipping. If you can 
> arrange to pick it up at a freight terminal you will likely be able to 
> save on the shipping costs. You will need a flat bed trailer capable 
> of carrying the weight and size (a four post lift comes in a package 
> about 17' long X 4' X 4'). If you want it delivered to your home 
> address you may need to figure how to off-load the unit. IIRC, there 
> is an extra charge for that, too.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
> ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Vintage-race Digest, Vol 33, 
> Issue 10
>
>> I'm thinking of getting a lift for my home garage
>
>> Mark Palmer
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