[Zmagnette] What should I check first???

Fletcher Millmore gofanu at cust.usachoice.net
Wed Nov 13 19:42:21 MST 2013 

The "AC" pump is also known as "Autopulse" and many other names. Look up 
"EP12 fuel pump". It was actually made by Walbro.
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html
Obsolete, replaced by a number of successors. Note that "EP12S" is the 
solid state round replacement, also sold by many others.
If it is old enough, it has a brass bellows; later rubber bellows. Last 
I looked, the bellows kit (only))was still available.
http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html
Points can usually be cleaned. Like most aftermarket pumps, it came as 
low or high pressure, controlled by the main spring inside. You want the 
LP version. I have posted this a million times, where??? Might be on 
Dave DuBois' site; Dave can also tell you what that recon SU number 
corresponds to.

FRM

On 11/13/2013 8:55 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
> When I bought my Magnette it was in a sad state.  It had an AC fuel 
> pump model number
> 12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting. I have always 
> wanted to have it reworked.  (I don't know if it works or not .  Just 
> assume that with the rubber parts would be shot.)
> I also have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and pieces 
> marked BMC factory approved rebuilt #4080.  Anyone know where the bits 
> to repair the AC pump could be found?
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 13, 2013, at 7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore 
> <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net <mailto:gofanu at cust.usachoice.net>> wrote:
>
>> Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the fuel 
>> transfer passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to the 
>> metering needle, it blocks the jet, as water will not go through the 
>> same small hole as gas will. When the engine stops sucking so hard, 
>> the water falls down, letting gas through. If you get the demand high 
>> enough, the needle is high enough that fuel flows around the water, 
>> but it still leaves the water in the bottom.  (on HS carbs with clear 
>> transfer tubes, you can actually see this happen) Easiest thing is to 
>> dump a double dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in it - the cans 
>> are usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right. The cleaner 
>> may also remove varnish etc on float and metering needles.
>> Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is wishful 
>> guesswork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it on something 
>> with the inlet end downwards - see if any water comes out. Water does 
>> not go through good filters easily, but it can under some conditions, 
>> and it only takes about a half cc to block the jet as described.
>> (banging the filter like this can get you home when water blocks the 
>> filter too. In winter, a little water will freeze over a filter very 
>> easily, making for a very cold walk home. This was standard procedure 
>> on the big truck, as diesel is often contaminated; I finally started 
>> using filters with drain plugs, which I checked regularly for water.)
>>
>> FRM
>>
>> On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John Perkins wrote:
>>> Arch:
>>>     I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT with the battery 
>>> cover off of the car so I could tap the fuel pump with the lug 
>>> wrench every 10 miles for 130 miles to keep enough fuel flowing to 
>>> get me home.  SU Fuel pumps don't really die, they become zombies 
>>> that need to be resurrected.
>>>     I had a similar problem to yours that turned out to be worn 
>>> needles and seats in the carbs.  The seats were worn to a point that 
>>> the needles would stick.  Sometimes the rattle from the last gasp of 
>>> the engine would shake them loose, other times a quick rap from the 
>>> handle end of a screwdriver would shake them loose.  Real Grose jets 
>>> cured the issue.
>>>     Perkins
>>>
>>> On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
>>>> Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection???  I always 
>>>> thought when they died they were dead.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <jromans55 at msn.com 
>>>> <mailto:jromans55 at msn.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> /order your fuel pump now...then ready for final failure.../ on a 
>>>>> 100 degree day mine layed down 1 mile from home in parking lot 
>>>>> ,after a 100 mile trip. once the car cooled down, started right up 
>>>>> and drove home. next time wouldnt start. FUEL PUMP TIME.
>>>>>  Jeff Romans
>>>>>  1958 Magnette ZB
>>>>> > From: arch.boston at twc.com <mailto:arch.boston at twc.com>
>>>>> > Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500
>>>>> > To: zmagnette at autox.team.net <mailto:zmagnette at autox.team.net>
>>>>> > Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check first???
>>>>> >
>>>>> > My car has developed a problem..... The last few times I have 
>>>>> driven the car it does the same thing. It will be running just 
>>>>> fine and then it will start to act as if it is running out of gas. 
>>>>> Stumbling and trying to die.... After I bleep the throttle a few 
>>>>> times thinking it is truly "AAA time" the car will run just fine. 
>>>>> There is a fuel filter between the gas tank and fuel pump. The 
>>>>> filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, it is not needing 
>>>>> replacement. The fuel pump is an electronic unit not SU. Should I 
>>>>> suspect the fuel pump? In the past when I needed to replace a pump 
>>>>> it was dead --- not working part of the time and fine later. What 
>>>>> should I check first??? Arch
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Sent from my iPad
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