[Zmagnette] Rear Springs

John Marcell mg1948 at verizon.net
Thu Apr 3 18:46:03 MDT 2014


Had mine rearched in Dallas in a shop that still had dirt floors. A time warp, told the guy what I had & he told me he knew what I needed. Worked great & cost $30!  We're done using cold method vs heat which I read was best

Phil

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:36 PM, Allen Bachelder <bachldrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> There was a time - back around 1980 as I recall when you could go to any good spring shop and get a pair of leaf springs made up.  These shops had all the factory data (spring rates, etc) on hand for just about any car ever built.  They built a set of springs for my '53 Plymouth project that were perfect.  ' Guess those shops have gone the way of ethyl gas and the re-refined drain oil at 15¢ a quart that I preferred to burn in my '51 Chevy.
> 
> Allen
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> 
>> On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:49 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
>> 
>> Steve, the only metals I know anything about ... Gold, plat., and silver.  Tho anneal silver to make it mailable it is heated to around 2000 degrees, cherry red.   3-400 degrees should do zip to steel.  Wouldn't a few mile's abrasion - finished surface to finished surface, a couple thousand miles at most, wear away the finish? So, you would have simply metal to metal contact?  Arch
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Apr 3, 2014, at 11:58 AM, "Steve" <skirby210 at cox.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I’m interested in following the answers to this, as I’ve done different things, none of which have seemed like a solution I feel comfortable recommending.
>>>  
>>> One question is:  what about powder coating?  Would seem to be better than painting, and give some “lube” quality between the leaves?  I’ve done this once, and it seemed to work OK, but then others have said “the heat process ruined your springs.”   Don’t know about that, from a practical standpoint . . .  the car/springs/suspension “seem” fine.  I believe powder coating uses a temp around 375 – 400ish.  That shouldn’t hurt the temper of springs . . .  should it???
>>>  
>>> I tried putting some formed rubber “liners” between them, on the recommendation of someone.  Done by some hot rodders, I guess.  Can’t say I liked the results.  Worked OK I guess, but looked like crap . . . . they didn’t stay in place that well, so some edges were falling out, etc.
>>>  
>>> I’ve also tried new springs, and that was the worst.  Car ended up being jacked up way too high.  Have also had springs re-arced, and not happy with that either . . . . car was then lopsided, and the spring shop said, bascially, “that’s the way it goes, its not a perfect science, type thing.”
>>>  
>>> All these experiences were “non” Magnettic, but the “issue” is the same, eh?
>>>  
>>> #2stevek
>>>  
>>> From: Joel Johnson
>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 10:46 PM
>>> To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
>>> Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>>>  
>>> Thanks everyone. The rubber pieces I'm referring to is the inter leaf and angle pads. I have Ed Sweeney's poly bushings for the spring eyes. I have disassembled the springs and I think I need to protect the inside from rust. Since there are rubber pads between the leaves, I'm thinking it would be ok to paint between the leaves? Steve T, I will try that program.
>>>  
>>> Joel
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Kelvin Dodd <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>>>> The spring mounting pads are isolated from the frame of the car, so there is no down side to using them. The replacement rubber pads are kinda squishy (technical term), so I normally use and recommend poly.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> The rear bushes are not the same as MGA/MGB, so you might have limited alternatives. I used the poly bushings that Edwin Sweeney made up. They fit perfectly and are not overly stiff.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> The front spring eye bush is also unique to the Magnette and at the time I worked on my car, the recommended replacement was the MGA front spring eye bush. This is slightly larger in OD and uses a bigger through bolt. I did find that a normal work bench vice will allow you to press this bushing into the spring eye without too much trouble. Since this conversion works well, I doubt if the Magnette unique spring bushes will be reproduced.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Kelvin.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Halliday
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 12:51 PM
>>>> To: List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
>>>> Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Hi Joel,
>>>> 
>>>> Some may disagree, but I would suggest going to urethane bushes and spring pads as you change.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Kind regards,
>>>> 
>>>> David
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> On 2 April 2014 20:30, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Joel,
>>>> 
>>>> I don't have an answer for you about the springs.  Hopefully, someone will provide you with an answer soon.  As far as resizing photos, I use a program called irfanview on my Windows 7 machine.  It is very popular, free, and available here:  http://www.irfanview.com/.  All you have to do is image, resize, then save.  Of course the program has the capability to do much more, but for a simple resize of a photograph, there's not much to it.  I often also use the "crop" feature.  This eliminates a lot of excess background, focuses attention on the important part and makes the file smaller as a bonus.
>>>> 
>>>> -Steve T.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> At 02:43 PM 4/2/2014, Joel Johnson wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I am refreshing the rear springs on my Magnette before installing them. Do I paint both sides of each leaf or put them together and paint the outside? Also what about the rubber bits? They need to be replaced. Thanks. There will be lots of questions to follow, I have my Magnette back from body work and am putting it back together. I'd send a photo, but I can't figure out how to reduce the file size for email.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
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