[Zmagnette] Rear Springs

Kent Yocum yocumk at gmail.com
Sat Apr 5 06:37:23 MDT 2014 

I've heard about UHMW tape and bought a roll from McMaster Carr for mine.
I'll let y'all know in a couple of years if it works. Seems to be the
ticket for the Model A restorers.

Kent


On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 11:48 AM, JEFF <jromans55 at msn.com> wrote:

>   Op*inions Will Vary...Today  Most Auto Manufacturers  Suspension Is Not
> Painted. I Think It Is Just Cosmetic. Our Cars Spent The Last 50  Years Out
> In The Weather. Mine Has Not Seen Any  Rain Or Snow Since I Have Had Mine,
> And I  Am Not The Only One I Will Bet. When I Change My Bushings To [Ed
> Sweeney Bushings]  I Will Do A Re-Paint For Sure.*
> *My .02 Cents Worth.*
>
> *    Jeff Romans*
> *1958 Magnette ZB*
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 08:13:25 -0700
> From: joel.turtleman at gmail.com
> To: zmagnette at autox.team.net
>
> Subject: Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>
> The springs are functionally fine. When I was cleaning them, to do a
> repaint, I noticed that the leaves had some surface rust and the inter
> spring pads and angle pads were missing /damaged. So I took the springs
> apart. There was surface rust between the leaves. I cleaned all the leaves,
> removed rust. Now I want to replace the pads, and if correct, paint the
> leaves. I found the pads at NTG but they are very pricey. Someone suggested
> Metro. So, do I paint both sides of each leaf or just the outside of the
> assembled spring? What other sources for the pads might there be? Thank
> youfor the help.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 7:25 AM, Allen Bachelder <bachldrs at comcast.net>wrote:
>
> I wouldn't vouch for them anymore.  ' Don't even know of any.  Having said
> that, John Twist has a service for MGBs where they re-arch your springs and
> add a leaf.  I've had a pair in my '73GT for 7-8 years now. Ride-height is
> good and no surprises in ride/handling.  ' Don't know if they could do the
> same for Magnette springs or not.
>
> FWIW,
> Allen
>   ******************************************************************
>
> *Allen & Florrie Bachelder       =iii=<Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs*
> *'57 ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT*
> *North Street, MI 48049, USA*
>  *http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs
> <http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs>*
> *NAMGAR GT39 - REGISTER TODAY!*
>
> *http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun
> <http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun>
> *
>
> ************************************************************************************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 4, 2014, at 12:01 AM, Steve wrote:
>
>   You guys have a heckuva lot better spring shops than we do around here,
> apparently.   I've used three different ones, all with bad results, and a
> lot of wasted $$ and time.
>
>  *From:* John Marcell <mg1948 at verizon.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 03, 2014 5:46 PM
> *To:* List for the Z Magnette Group - North America<zmagnette at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>
>  Had mine rearched in Dallas in a shop that still had dirt floors. A time
> warp, told the guy what I had & he told me he knew what I needed. Worked
> great & cost $30!  We're done using cold method vs heat which I read was
> best
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:36 PM, Allen Bachelder <bachldrs at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>  There was a time - back around 1980 as I recall when you could go to any
> *good* spring shop and get a pair of leaf springs made up.  These shops
> had all the factory data (spring rates, etc) on hand for just about any car
> ever built.  They built a set of springs for my '53 Plymouth project that
> were perfect.  ' Guess those shops have gone the way of ethyl gas and the
> re-refined drain oil at 15¢ a quart that I preferred to burn in my '51
> Chevy.
>
> Allen
>      ******************************************************************
>
> *Allen & Florrie Bachelder       =iii=<Spring Creek Home for Wayward MGs*
> *'57 ZB, '65 B, '69 C/GT, '73 B/GT*
> *North Street, MI 48049, USA*
> *http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs
> <http://www.mgexperience.net/member/bachldrs>*
> *NAMGAR GT39 - REGISTER TODAY!*
>
> *http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun
> <http://www.namgar.com/events/article/gt-39_ottawa_ontario/gt-39_get_ready_for_a_whole_lot_of_fun>
> *
>
> ************************************************************************************************************************
>
>
>
>
>
>  On Apr 3, 2014, at 7:49 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
>
>  Steve, the only metals I know anything about ... Gold, plat., and
> silver.  Tho anneal silver to make it mailable it is heated to around 2000
> degrees, cherry red.   3-400 degrees should do zip to steel.  Wouldn't a
> few mile's abrasion - finished surface to finished surface, a couple
> thousand miles at most, wear away the finish? So, you would have simply
> metal to metal contact?  Arch
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 3, 2014, at 11:58 AM, "Steve" <skirby210 at cox.net> wrote:
>
>    I'm interested in following the answers to this, as I've done
> different things, none of which have seemed like a solution I feel
> comfortable recommending.
>
> One question is:  what about powder coating?  Would seem to be better than
> painting, and give some "lube" quality between the leaves?  I've done this
> once, and it seemed to work OK, but then others have said "the heat process
> ruined your springs."   Don't know about that, from a practical standpoint
> . . .  the car/springs/suspension "seem" fine.  I believe powder coating
> uses a temp around 375 - 400ish.  That shouldn't hurt the temper of springs
> . . .  should it???
>
> I tried putting some formed rubber "liners" between them, on the
> recommendation of someone.  Done by some hot rodders, I guess.  Can't say I
> liked the results.  Worked OK I guess, but looked like crap . . . . they
> didn't stay in place that well, so some edges were falling out, etc.
>
> I've also tried new springs, and that was the worst.  Car ended up being
> jacked up way too high.  Have also had springs re-arced, and not happy with
> that either . . . . car was then lopsided, and the spring shop said,
> bascially, "that's the way it goes, its not a perfect science, type thing."
>
> All these experiences were "non" Magnettic, but the "issue" is the same,
> eh?
>
> #2stevek
>
>  *From:* Joel Johnson <joel.turtleman at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 02, 2014 10:46 PM
> *To:* List for the Z Magnette Group - North America<zmagnette at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>
>  Thanks everyone. The rubber pieces I'm referring to is the inter leaf
> and angle pads. I have Ed Sweeney's poly bushings for the spring eyes. I
> have disassembled the springs and I think I need to protect the inside from
> rust. Since there are rubber pads between the leaves, I'm thinking it would
> be ok to paint between the leaves? Steve T, I will try that program.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 2, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Kelvin Dodd <doddk at mossmotors.com> wrote:
>
>  The spring mounting pads are isolated from the frame of the car, so
> there is no down side to using them. The replacement rubber pads are kinda
> squishy (technical term), so I normally use and recommend poly.
>
>
>
> The rear bushes are not the same as MGA/MGB, so you might have limited
> alternatives. I used the poly bushings that Edwin Sweeney made up. They fit
> perfectly and are not overly stiff.
>
>
>
> The front spring eye bush is also unique to the Magnette and at the time I
> worked on my car, the recommended replacement was the MGA front spring eye
> bush. This is slightly larger in OD and uses a bigger through bolt. I did
> find that a normal work bench vice will allow you to press this bushing
> into the spring eye without too much trouble. Since this conversion works
> well, I doubt if the Magnette unique spring bushes will be reproduced.
>
>
>
> Kelvin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> zmagnette-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *David Halliday
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 02, 2014 12:51 PM
> *To:* List for the Z Magnette Group - North America
> *Subject:* Re: [Zmagnette] Rear Springs
>
>
>
> Hi Joel,
>
> Some may disagree, but I would suggest going to urethane bushes and spring
> pads as you change.
>
>
>
> Kind regards,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On 2 April 2014 20:30, Steven Trovato <strovato at optonline.net> wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
> I don't have an answer for you about the springs.  Hopefully, someone will
> provide you with an answer soon.  As far as resizing photos, I use a
> program called irfanview on my Windows 7 machine.  It is very popular,
> free, and available here:  http://www.irfanview.com/.  All you have to do
> is image, resize, then save.  Of course the program has the capability to
> do much more, but for a simple resize of a photograph, there's not much to
> it.  I often also use the "crop" feature.  This eliminates a lot of excess
> background, focuses attention on the important part and makes the file
> smaller as a bonus.
>
> -Steve T.
>
>
>
> At 02:43 PM 4/2/2014, Joel Johnson wrote:
>
> I am refreshing the rear springs on my Magnette before installing them. Do
> I paint both sides of each leaf or put them together and paint the outside?
> Also what about the rubber bits? They need to be replaced. Thanks. There
> will be lots of questions to follow, I have my Magnette back from body work
> and am putting it back together. I'd send a photo, but I can't figure out
> how to reduce the file size for email.
>
>
>
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